See the ultimate router Jig with Plans Here: ua-cam.com/video/6rYWWrGOfKI/v-deo.html BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
@@mytrashaccount3630 Yeah I do becasue i've been looking for a long time on people here on UA-cam using in and it seems to be a pretty good sawblade. But I can't find it?!
Thank you, Bro!!! I just finished (6, 1 1/2in x 1in) my first wedged mortise and tenon and it came out GREAT!!! Your emphasis on the wedge is so ultra important... though I didn't use all your techniques--and I feel like you left out some important steps but, I like how you left yours 'raised.' There is not a lot of material on-line or images anywhere for that matter but yours looked the best out of all the research compiled. I used a Japanese pull saw to cut the kerf because of its thinner results and bandsaw to cut the wedges. I've only been woodworking for 1 1/2 years and went straight to the big leagues !!! so the joint only took me 9 mos. 🤣, but now I feel like I can do it again much more faster!!!!!! Thank you much for your tutelage, Sir!!!!!
Of all the ones I’ve seen has got to be the most beautiful. Add to the that the ability it takes to make something that beautiful.... wow man just wow!!!
Hullo young man. Quick one. Your tutorial on Japanese saw technique was brilliant. Western saw user all my life, not know. I really pushed the boat out on this one and made a small jewellery box with same material. One of my grand daughters now calls me the cool Papa. No comical parts on this one BIG MAN. To much love involved.
Well explained video, Jonathan! you inspired me to use these in one of my next projects too. It looks like a lot of fun to do and the result looks so much better.
love how you break it down Barney Style for me. I would love to see a video on how to properly use a chisel and planes with some techniques to practice. I am struggling getting thin shaving from chisels and planes.
Now, that is a great looking joint!! It would be nice to see a quadruple inlay, through wedge, Mortise and Tenon, lol. In all seriousness, great looking joint!!...Bruce
I'm looking at putting up a pergola in the back yard. I don't want to use metal brackets so for a joint of the week I'd be interested in seeing some kind of three way joint for the top corners to kind of fancy it up a bit.
For a more secure mortise and tenon would you flare the mortise slightly larger on the outside so when the wedges are inserted it ‘locks’ the mortise and tenon together? Love the videos - finished dovetail drawer #2 with your jig! Almost makes me an expert 😉
If you find yourself doing this by hand make the wedges using a marking gauge and a sliding bevel. Just mark off the maximum width of the wedge with the gauge and then set a sliding bevel to whatever angle you'd like the wedge to be and mark up with a scalpel from the mark you cut with the marking gauge. As long as you don't reset your gauge+bevel between marks that'll result in even wedges.
How about a sliding dovetail. Looking at using them on a table project to join worktop to leg assembly, allowing for seasonal movement and eliminating the need for a block end to maintain alignment. Ideas on setting out or whether to cut the male or female section first would be great.
Made myself a wood mallet with one of these joints and clearly should have watched this video first. I cracked the handle, probably because I used a hand saw for the cut and pushed the sides too far. Thanks for next time.
Hey man. Im retired looking to play with my wood hahaha but your videos are very informative. And I know what I’m going to ask is all perspective, but can you do ratios on the awesome joinery. Not a by the rule book type of thing but give some tips on some of what works for you and why. Because I’m lost as far as ratios.
Awesome video, super informative and that joint came out beautifully well! I know this was from a few years ago but do you taper the mortise hole to allow the tenant to open up with the wedge or is the mortise straight through? Cheers for posting, really inspiring to watch!
Yeah, that's what an actual wedged M&T joint is, he just didn't do that part. This is just a through-mortise with some of the tenon material replaced with maple. The joint he made here is probably weaker than a regular through-tenon because he removed more material with the drilled holes. This joint looks good, but this is not correct.
Katz, I know from your videos that you are a very skilled woodworker, and this video is just another example of that, BUT this video is not a TRUE wedged tenon joint but rather a mortise and tenon with the looks of a wedged joint. To be a True Wedged mortise it must be flared out to the surface by the width of the wedge used to create that strong wedged joint. What you here is just a tenon and mortice with a decorative looking fake wedged tenon. Perhaps you just overlooked this Fact.
Hey Jonathan, Matt Estlea has just done a video on the mitred dovetail joint, how about you do a mitred inlay dovetail joint? I'm thinking of doing one on a hand tool cabinet and want to see how you would do it.
Just watched this and it is really cool and I did enjoy. I am thinking that used in the right place it could be spectacular, so thanks for sharing. I do have a question/thought and you may not respond since this video is 1.5 years past. And that's OK because just taking the time to think it through is worthwhile. But here goes, would it make a better joint if the shoulder side of the mortise was a bit smaller than the side where the wedges are driven, then when the wedges are driven the spreading of the tenon into the wider side of the mortise would create a type of a dovetailed mortise-tenon joint?
As always looking really nice bro! I like the wedge tip thanks for the tips..have u done a scarf joint yet? I'd like to see that done in a J. katzmoses style 🍻💥
Jonathan Katz-Moses no, honestly, give it a try. If your mortise is about 5mm wider at the top than the bottom, you can bang a wider wedge through. I like your way better but I tried it after seeing the 3rd coast craftsman. Could be a good idea for joint of the week? Gives you a load of funky contrast. I did mine with white oak and Purple Heart wedges. Btw, LOVE your dovetail jig. Most used thing in my shop! Thanks for all the excellent tutorials. I learn so much from you.
@@Norm7264 I'll bet you any amount of money this could pick up my drum sander. You name it. I'm serious. The number of comments I get on JotWs that say, "that's weak because of x," astounds me. Some people think you need to build every single woodworking joint to withstand a nuclear blast. A through mortise with wedges, made like this is way stronger than a regular mortise and tenon. Either of them, with or without wedges, with straight walls, would hold amy piece of furniture together until the wood rots around it. Woodworkers don't need to make their lives harder by coming up with extra steps to and already bullet proof joint. Beautiful joinery should be strong enough to serve it's purpose, not every purpose.
Is there any important in where the curf the drilled hole. I saw you bisected it while others say you should hit the outer edge and others say you should hit the inner edge. Does it depend on usage e.g. hatchet head vs chair legs.
Jonathan!! These videos are so sick. Killing it man. Solid joint. Check out this video from Wood by Wright. I just saw this the other day. Skip to about 10 mins. Super good little tip about the relief holes I had never heard before. Thanks for making these videos man. Super fun. And if I remember correctly, May is baby month? Congrats man.
Very good, Jonathan. Doing wedged through tenons on a really large item (like the Samurai Carpenter Workbench where the triple tenons are on the ends of a long, heavy apron) presents a whole different set of challenges, particularly when the mortises have to be cut into a thick workpiece (like the 3 inch thick end piece of the workbench). Many of the things you showed would not work. But there are always multiple ways to "skin the cat" (can one still use that phrase in these politically correct days without PETA showing up at your door?). I am looking forward to receiving my Jonathan Katz-Moses stop block when those come out of production- the same one you featured in this video.
It's because the law says that the blade needs to stop within a certain time after its switched off (in commercial settings not private ones). On the cheaper tablesaws they don't offer the option of the extended arbor required to take the dado stack because the dado stack doesn't stop as quickly. But if you buy the heavy duty equipment from felder for example they offer the option of the arbor and their own dado stack. You can get an extended arbor retrofitted if you want. It's just the manufacturers don't want to take the responsibility of the equipment not meeting the minimum standards. It's also cheaper for people to use routers to do the job rather than have warrantied retrofitting done or buying heavy duty equipment that does meet minimum standards. People either avoid using them because they're more expensive, considered a little more dangerous or erroneously believe that they are illegal. Businesses use them all the time because the time saved offsets any extra costs in buying industrial tablesaws or the slightly more expensive insurance.
See the ultimate router Jig with Plans Here: ua-cam.com/video/6rYWWrGOfKI/v-deo.html
BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
What is the red saw blade called ? Been looking forever. (Live in Sweden)
Freud
@@katzmosestools Where can I buy it ? Zero results on Google for sweden. Thanks alot
@@Ihaveaboyfriend So what, you need your blade to be red ?
@@mytrashaccount3630 Yeah I do becasue i've been looking for a long time on people here on UA-cam using in and it seems to be a pretty good sawblade. But I can't find it?!
Thank you, Bro!!! I just finished (6, 1 1/2in x 1in) my first wedged mortise and tenon and it came out GREAT!!! Your emphasis on the wedge is so ultra important... though I didn't use all your techniques--and I feel like you left out some important steps but, I like how you left yours 'raised.' There is not a lot of material on-line or images anywhere for that matter but yours looked the best out of all the research compiled. I used a Japanese pull saw to cut the kerf because of its thinner results and bandsaw to cut the wedges. I've only been woodworking for 1 1/2 years and went straight to the big leagues !!! so the joint only took me 9 mos. 🤣, but now I feel like I can do it again much more faster!!!!!! Thank you much for your tutelage, Sir!!!!!
Thank you Jonathan, simple after you do it, but it is beautiful!
this video was great in helping me determine that I need (errrr.....want?) more tools. will have to get the request in to the better three-quarters.
Of all the ones I’ve seen has got to be the most beautiful. Add to the that the ability it takes to make something that beautiful.... wow man just wow!!!
Using this for the lower stretchers on my entry table!
Hullo young man. Quick one. Your tutorial on Japanese saw technique was brilliant. Western saw user all my life, not know. I really pushed the boat out on this one and made a small jewellery box with same material. One of my grand daughters now calls me the cool Papa. No comical parts on this one BIG MAN. To much love involved.
Really quality tutorial sir. You’re a gifted teacher.
thank you Katz what a neat looking joint
This wedge tip is awesome! Thank you, Sir.
thanks for the tips. I like the insight that the first try failed. it's all about the practice before the finish and learning as you go.
Should the hole part of the joint not be angled to stop the joint sliding out under stress and pressure?
Love the Field Notes in your pocket! I use them for everything.
10:48 - THAT is the money shot we love to see!
Jonathan, excellent instruction. Love watching your videos.
Thanks man, it's the little things that show good from just ok.
Joint of the week videos are awesome!
Thanks bud!
My all time favorite joint... Loving the awesome videos and the systematic tutorial approach man!
Teacher got to teach! Good job Katz-Moses!
Jonathan.... there is so much awesome content on your channel. I love it.
I found the best way way to practice this joint is mallet making.
I 've become a big fan of your video's. 👍👍👍
that was Outstanding
Excellent demo!!! Thanks!!
Great looking joint Jonathan.
that would look fantastic on a sliding arts and crafts style book rack.
Nice. Just recently did some mortise and tenon.
Nice shot while you were spraying!
Well explained video, Jonathan! you inspired me to use these in one of my next projects too. It looks like a lot of fun to do and the result looks so much better.
Beautiful joint!
Looks absolutely beautiful Sir 😊
That is one pretty joint.
Loved it.
Very nice joint!
very talented with the teaching end of things.
Thanks Jon!
The white Makita 😍
Very cool techniques...Thank you!
I was planning to use this in an upcoming project. Now I’m convinced. Thanks for a great video.
Great job JKM
Damn, that turned out so nice👌
Very nice!
As far as the tenon size...I did the same damn thing on a stunning mallet I made. Still worked.
Thanks man. I requested this a few weeks ago, really couldn’t find a good video on this. I’ve got some work to do....
Nice one Katz
We in the machinist world call that "router bit" a two flute end mill.
love how you break it down Barney Style for me. I would love to see a video on how to properly use a chisel and planes with some techniques to practice. I am struggling getting thin shaving from chisels and planes.
Very nice, Bravo!
Amazing
great video as always, i love the look of this joint and i think the tips on the wedges will come in handy
#loveKatZ!!!
Wouldn't having a slight angle from the front of the mortice to the back offer more wedge holding strength?
Very well done. This is one for my “saved” list for an upcoming project. I have a method for cutting wedges on the band saw that works well too.
Now, that is a great looking joint!! It would be nice to see a quadruple inlay, through wedge, Mortise and Tenon, lol. In all seriousness, great looking joint!!...Bruce
Excellent, I was just getting ready to head out and try this joint on my workbench legs, i was trying to figure out the best way to make the wedges
I'm looking at putting up a pergola in the back yard. I don't want to use metal brackets so for a joint of the week I'd be interested in seeing some kind of three way joint for the top corners to kind of fancy it up a bit.
For a more secure mortise and tenon would you flare the mortise slightly larger on the outside so when the wedges are inserted it ‘locks’ the mortise and tenon together? Love the videos - finished dovetail drawer #2 with your jig! Almost makes me an expert 😉
David Yanchus that’s definitely the way to do it.
It’s mechanically stronger that way but harder to do.
Im going to practice the Forked wegded tusk tennon not only for strength but looks. Its going to take me time to get it down though.
Woohoo top 10!!!
Nice I like it
That's a sexy joint
If you find yourself doing this by hand make the wedges using a marking gauge and a sliding bevel. Just mark off the maximum width of the wedge with the gauge and then set a sliding bevel to whatever angle you'd like the wedge to be and mark up with a scalpel from the mark you cut with the marking gauge. As long as you don't reset your gauge+bevel between marks that'll result in even wedges.
“I’m so happy we wedged it this time.” No nails here.
How about a sliding dovetail. Looking at using them on a table project to join worktop to leg assembly, allowing for seasonal movement and eliminating the need for a block end to maintain alignment. Ideas on setting out or whether to cut the male or female section first would be great.
watch ishitani build tables, he always uses sliding dovetails. the guy is a wizard.
Cheers for that
That spray shot was epic. Just sayin.👍
Thanks bud!
Yo Katz the page is a good resource hub. But could ya do “how to cut wedges with Japanese hand saws.” Thanks for breaking it down Barney style.
We do 😁
Thanks Jonathan! What types of wood did you use here. Love the finish as well!
Really nice explanation Jonathan. Is there a reason you didn't "ramp" the walls of the mortise to account for the wedge?
Made myself a wood mallet with one of these joints and clearly should have watched this video first. I cracked the handle, probably because I used a hand saw for the cut and pushed the sides too far. Thanks for next time.
Just made a couple of these last night! Where was this video at 7:00PM! :P
Hey man. Im retired looking to play with my wood hahaha but your videos are very informative. And I know what I’m going to ask is all perspective, but can you do ratios on the awesome joinery. Not a by the rule book type of thing but give some tips on some of what works for you and why. Because I’m lost as far as ratios.
Sweet! Any general guidance on how big the stop holes should be? Something just a bit larger than the width of the wedge maybe?
Forgot to say I could not build that jig. We still have to buy an 8x4 sheet of acrylic for small projects.
What is the finish you use from the spray can ? Cheers
Awesome video, super informative and that joint came out beautifully well! I know this was from a few years ago but do you taper the mortise hole to allow the tenant to open up with the wedge or is the mortise straight through? Cheers for posting, really inspiring to watch!
Yeah, that's what an actual wedged M&T joint is, he just didn't do that part. This is just a through-mortise with some of the tenon material replaced with maple. The joint he made here is probably weaker than a regular through-tenon because he removed more material with the drilled holes. This joint looks good, but this is not correct.
@@Beefbananas cheers for the explanation! Lots to learn here!
Katz, I know from your videos that you are a very skilled woodworker, and this video is just another example of that, BUT this video is not a TRUE wedged tenon joint but rather a mortise and tenon with the looks of a wedged joint. To be a True Wedged mortise it must be flared out to the surface by the width of the wedge used to create that strong wedged joint. What you here is just a tenon and mortice with a decorative looking fake wedged tenon. Perhaps you just overlooked this Fact.
If you want to be precise, try the metric system :P And yes, we don't have dado blade.
Nice video, thumbs up :)
Hey Jonathan, Matt Estlea has just done a video on the mitred dovetail joint, how about you do a mitred inlay dovetail joint? I'm thinking of doing one on a hand tool cabinet and want to see how you would do it.
I have project for this, So no taper on the tenon or in the mortise? Thanks
Just watched this and it is really cool and I did enjoy. I am thinking that used in the right place it could be spectacular, so thanks for sharing. I do have a question/thought and you may not respond since this video is 1.5 years past. And that's OK because just taking the time to think it through is worthwhile. But here goes, would it make a better joint if the shoulder side of the mortise was a bit smaller than the side where the wedges are driven, then when the wedges are driven the spreading of the tenon into the wider side of the mortise would create a type of a dovetailed mortise-tenon joint?
Beautiful! What is the spray finish you used on this? Great shot of the application in the vid!
♥️
Lovely (in a manly way)
I like the 'our mistakes' scheme. Just joking.
Was the mortise cut at an angle?
As always looking really nice bro! I like the wedge tip thanks for the tips..have u done a scarf joint yet? I'd like to see that done in a J. katzmoses style 🍻💥
I have. It's in the Joint of the Week playlist. Cheers bud!
That thing is mean looking
What spray did you use?
It really looks nice.
Lacquer
Great video. I always thought the mortise should have sloping walls so that when you add the wedge it effectively makes it into a dovetail shape?
Sounds like a good way to have gaps and break things
Jonathan Katz-Moses no, honestly, give it a try. If your mortise is about 5mm wider at the top than the bottom, you can bang a wider wedge through. I like your way better but I tried it after seeing the 3rd coast craftsman. Could be a good idea for joint of the week? Gives you a load of funky contrast. I did mine with white oak and Purple Heart wedges. Btw, LOVE your dovetail jig. Most used thing in my shop! Thanks for all the excellent tutorials. I learn so much from you.
Aw c'mon JKM, you know he''s right. We don't avoid difficult joints, we do them because they're difficult (to butcher the old JFK quote).
@@Norm7264 I'll bet you any amount of money this could pick up my drum sander. You name it. I'm serious. The number of comments I get on JotWs that say, "that's weak because of x," astounds me. Some people think you need to build every single woodworking joint to withstand a nuclear blast. A through mortise with wedges, made like this is way stronger than a regular mortise and tenon. Either of them, with or without wedges, with straight walls, would hold amy piece of furniture together until the wood rots around it. Woodworkers don't need to make their lives harder by coming up with extra steps to and already bullet proof joint. Beautiful joinery should be strong enough to serve it's purpose, not every purpose.
What spray finish are you using?
Lacquer
It looks like you could play around with the location and size of the wedges.
So there is no taper to the mortice?
Yep and yep
Hi nice job. What kind of glue u use on this video?
well i'm a year late and i cant speak for him but if i was a guessing man id say its either titebond II or titebond III
Is there any important in where the curf the drilled hole. I saw you bisected it while others say you should hit the outer edge and others say you should hit the inner edge. Does it depend on usage e.g. hatchet head vs chair legs.
I dont think it would make a difference
Jonathan!! These videos are so sick. Killing it man. Solid joint. Check out this video from Wood by Wright. I just saw this the other day. Skip to about 10 mins. Super good little tip about the relief holes I had never heard before. Thanks for making these videos man. Super fun.
And if I remember correctly, May is baby month? Congrats man.
I'm sitting in he hospital now actually. Cheers
Don't be scared, Show the fails!
What can I build to sell?
Very good, Jonathan. Doing wedged through tenons on a really large item (like the Samurai Carpenter Workbench where the triple tenons are on the ends of a long, heavy apron) presents a whole different set of challenges, particularly when the mortises have to be cut into a thick workpiece (like the 3 inch thick end piece of the workbench). Many of the things you showed would not work. But there are always multiple ways to "skin the cat" (can one still use that phrase in these politically correct days without PETA showing up at your door?). I am looking forward to receiving my Jonathan Katz-Moses stop block when those come out of production- the same one you featured in this video.
I'm convinced he's somehow related to Jeremy Renner
And Kevin Bacon
@@katzmosestools Wait are you?
I haven't heard about Eropeans not having dado sets... any reason why?
Because you can’t use a riving knife with a dado stack.
@@Grillinandgluin And there is a requirement for a riving knife?
Over there it is required to have the riving knife installed.
It's because the law says that the blade needs to stop within a certain time after its switched off (in commercial settings not private ones). On the cheaper tablesaws they don't offer the option of the extended arbor required to take the dado stack because the dado stack doesn't stop as quickly. But if you buy the heavy duty equipment from felder for example they offer the option of the arbor and their own dado stack. You can get an extended arbor retrofitted if you want. It's just the manufacturers don't want to take the responsibility of the equipment not meeting the minimum standards.
It's also cheaper for people to use routers to do the job rather than have warrantied retrofitting done or buying heavy duty equipment that does meet minimum standards. People either avoid using them because they're more expensive, considered a little more dangerous or erroneously believe that they are illegal. Businesses use them all the time because the time saved offsets any extra costs in buying industrial tablesaws or the slightly more expensive insurance.
It's just a mortise and tenon joint, Jon.
Would love to see no glue no screw / nail joints.
I have a playlist called Joint of The Week. There's about 25-30 in there. Cheers