Yeah my old, Craftsman Professional, impact gun said, "No thank you", so I had to do it dee old fashion way with a 2' Snap On breaker bar with about a 4' iron pipe slide all day way down. I did it from the top with zero problems. Thanks for da video! Mike in DFW
Love the printed cup. Fel-Pro has that installer aid on it but the printer comes through with some nice things when you need it. I needed one for a rear main on a 1998 Civic once…. Something about needing it with holes that matched the flywheel bolt pattern to press it on.
Unless you're a goof like me, I took the whole cover off the car and still somehow managed to break the cover. New to me used one arrived two days later for $40@@michaelslack6891
My crankshaft has no keyway but my harmonic balancer has 2 slots and a white mark. Did you have to align your balancer or did you just install it as a standard pulley?
The problem with leaks in front and rear of LS engines isn't so much the crank seals. It's the front or rear cover seals. I guarantee that cover seal is brittle and leaking. Best change it and the round seal
Outlined process: 240 ft lbs initial tightening, remove the bolt, measure balancer face to crankshaft nose (should be 2.4-4.48mm recessed into balancer bore). Install new balancer bolt to 37 ft lbs +140 degrees.
Literally noone does a video on 4x4s. Sxratch that, the 2 i saw start with 1. DROP FRONT DIFF. There has to be a better O³ or order of operations to get the clearance elsewhere. I can pull cyl6 sleeve from inside a Vnl cab, I know theres a way to do a 4.3gm 4x4 front main without tearing the front end apart. Even if that means hanging upside down from my 50ton A Frame hoist lol
I am a journeyman heavy equipment mechanic but I would have never got into it without videos like this.
The vice grips to hold the pulley for the clutch fan is genius
Thank you for being concise, detailed explanation, along with a short video! You're a good mechanic, if not great!
Answered my question. Was double checking I didn’t have to pull the cover off. Thank you.
Yeah my old, Craftsman Professional, impact gun said, "No thank you", so I had to do it dee old fashion way with a 2' Snap On breaker bar with about a 4' iron pipe slide all day way down. I did it from the top with zero problems. Thanks for da video! Mike in DFW
Love the printed cup. Fel-Pro has that installer aid on it but the printer comes through with some nice things when you need it. I needed one for a rear main on a 1998 Civic once…. Something about needing it with holes that matched the flywheel bolt pattern to press it on.
Excellent video brother! Using this as a guide to do my sill today.
Nice video, straight to the point
Well made video, very nice how you included the bolt/tool sizes
Great video and to the point
Wonderful and helpful. I was told 1500 for this work
Dam.. I'll do it for half that ..doing mine now , found a bunch of other stuff that needed attention also , might as well do it all ..
Local shop just did a 2006 Silverado for me. Same seal. Charged me $240 with parts.
Thanks. Is gonna help me tomorrow sunday
Look forward to it.. thanks for the video
Holy cow great video! Thanks.
great video thank you!
How come nobody on you tube does not show the actual removal of the seal?
Cause its so easy to do
Unless you're a goof like me, I took the whole cover off the car and still somehow managed to break the cover. New to me used one arrived two days later for $40@@michaelslack6891
A seal puller removal pry tool is not expensive and will pull a seal quicker than you can say “next, remove the seal”.
Great job! Would you be able to share the 3D file for the seal install?
Did anyone else notice the whole motor move when he took off the air intake!? 😂
Trans is out, it’s probably just sitting on the rear mount and nothing else
My crankshaft has no keyway but my harmonic balancer has 2 slots and a white mark. Did you have to align your balancer or did you just install it as a standard pulley?
I read from a manual that you need to took it to 260 ft lbs, then back it off and verify the gap. Nice video but lacking important info
6 ugga duggas from the wired impact and still have room left so I need to rent an installer tool
You think he would have covered that
The problem with leaks in front and rear of LS engines isn't so much the crank seals. It's the front or rear cover seals. I guarantee that cover seal is brittle and leaking. Best change it and the round seal
badass video
You forgot to install a Balancer Washer .... I did the same and got oil leak from the front seal
I´ve got a trailblazer 5.3L 08. I wonder if it gets any harder to do the same job, since the engine bay is smaller
It might be difficult if the radiator is closer. I had to replace my radiator thankfully so I didn’t have to worry about it.
What you torque the crank bolt to
Outlined process: 240 ft lbs initial tightening, remove the bolt, measure balancer face to crankshaft nose (should be 2.4-4.48mm recessed into balancer bore). Install new balancer bolt to 37 ft lbs +140 degrees.
how much would you typically charge for this front crank seal replacement
Local shop I used charged me $240 total to replace it on a 2006 Silverado. Think he said it was 2.25 hours labor time
Does this same process apply for the 6.0 liter?
Yes
TO THE POINT! No time for my ADHD to kick in LOL
Literally noone does a video on 4x4s. Sxratch that, the 2 i saw start with 1. DROP FRONT DIFF. There has to be a better O³ or order of operations to get the clearance elsewhere. I can pull cyl6 sleeve from inside a Vnl cab, I know theres a way to do a 4.3gm 4x4 front main without tearing the front end apart. Even if that means hanging upside down from my 50ton A Frame hoist lol
I was quoted $1700
Would this be the same seal for the &.7?