Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I am no mechanic however i am able to do repairs when i have the guidance and you definitely have the answers. I also enjoy reading the comments as well from other responders........ I have a business and ive noticed the fluid on my wheel an hub.... i can fix this and get back on the road....... thanks again,
Good Grief! My 2015 3500 has a soggy passenger side rotor. I thought the brakes were leaking fluid. Nope! Inner brake pad was saturated, but caliper piston seals were dry and intact. No brake fluid leaks anywhere. Then, when I pulled off the drum/rotor, the complete inside was wet with differential gear oil and I knew the axle seal had failed. So a relatively simple brake job turned into a major brake pad and shoe replacement job in addition to replacing the inner axle seals, and inner and outer bearings. Only my passenger side is leaking but both sides will be getting the full treatment.
Great job explaining how. I've changed them one several single wheel trucks but this will be my first dually change. I noticed today my wheel seal is shot on the drives side. Now I feel confident that it will be a smooth job
Tip: When removing the hub if you put the nut back on just a turn or two you can give it a quick pull and it will pop that outer wheel bearing out without it hitting the floor. Also, that keyed nut for the hub has a torque spec of 20ftlbs. If you don't want to spend the money on the $100 special socket, I would say just make sure to snug it but it should definitely not have any play. Great video for us DIY'ers. Thanks
Also, great mention about getting the fluid in those bearings for the floating axle. TBH burning them up is the only reason I just pack them by hand and also tilt the axles for 5 min each side before driving.
@@TheRobbie8919standard assembly lubricant is ideal and what is called for in spicer’s and the Dana service manual. Lucas oil stabilizer says it’s a “premium assembly lubricant for engines, manual gearboxes and axles” and supposedly mixes fine with gear oil. I packed oil bathed axle bearings with grease on hundreds of vehicles while working at new car dealerships back when all most all cars and trucks had them and I never had any comebacks or complaints about it, but now 20 years later while working on my own full floating Dana axle, I see in the service manual they say you should never do that with bearings that are in an oil bath because grease contaminates gear oil and it will reduce it’s ability to flow around and lubricate the bearings when they mix together and gum up in the bearing cages. Apparently gear oil and bearing/chassis greases should never be mixed. Like I said I did it as a paid professional without any apparent problems on a weekly basis so…. Doing it certainly doesn’t guarantee problems, or at least not anything catastrophic. Just food for thought. I did use the Lucas this time because it was cheap and readily available and our spindles and hubs are no longer made by any of the oem suppliers so if we ruin one we gotta deal with the one aftermarket guy that wants $600 for one hub and $700 for a spindle. 👊
Preciate this video brother!!! Didnt seem like it took long at all besides having to clean it good which is a real stickler for me. gotta clean it!!! Im gonna get started on this!!
I changed my rear pads on my one ton today and noticed a little grease back behind the pads and I suspect this is my issue. I’m ABSOLUTELY no mechanic but after watching your video 3 times I think I can do this. I think I would like to change out the race’s though. Thanks for helping dummies like me.
Hi, good video, thank you. I read somewhere about tilting the truck after to ensure the new bearings and diff fluid has circulated before driving. Is that needed or just bs? Please let me know. Thanks
Hey boss! Im going to be doing this job on my 15’ 5500 service truck. Any difference between the 3500 and 5500 rear? This video is very helpful if its the same. Thanks bud!
It would depend on what axle you have. Dana 70s and 80s like this could very well come in some 5500 chassis cab platforms. Or you could have a AAM axle. Truck axles are always a cluster f*%k because each platform had numerous different options for axles available for each different model/year. Axles varied within same year same model because of things like optional hd towing packages, fifth wheel prep and snow plow prep packages. Different combinations got different axles under them. Best to check your axle tag, next best would be the trucks build sheet by vin then in a last ditch effort only, run the rpo codes. 👊
I thought my dodge had blow by making a nasty burning oil smell for over a year now till I noticed a large puddle of oil that smelled like gear lube 🤮at work. Looked underneath and sure as heck. Axle seal and a small bit of pinion seal leak. Been procrastinating replacing parking breaks ,much needed with the manual transmission. Uggh. Not looking forward to this.
It depends on if the bearing will receive the gear oil or if it’s sealed away from it. My ram has floating axles and both outer bearing take gear oil. Just have to consult the manufacturer specs on your application
Not true as long as you can drag you nail across the race and nothing catches and there is no pits it’s an acceptable part to reuse….. it’s even in the standard repair practice for most shops.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I am no mechanic however i am able to do repairs when i have the guidance and you definitely have the answers. I also enjoy reading the comments as well from other responders........ I have a business and ive noticed the fluid on my wheel an hub.... i can fix this and get back on the road....... thanks again,
Good Grief! My 2015 3500 has a soggy passenger side rotor. I thought the brakes were leaking fluid. Nope! Inner brake pad was saturated, but caliper piston seals were dry and intact. No brake fluid leaks anywhere. Then, when I pulled off the drum/rotor, the complete inside was wet with differential gear oil and I knew the axle seal had failed. So a relatively simple brake job turned into a major brake pad and shoe replacement job in addition to replacing the inner axle seals, and inner and outer bearings. Only my passenger side is leaking but both sides will be getting the full treatment.
Great job explaining how. I've changed them one several single wheel trucks but this will be my first dually change. I noticed today my wheel seal is shot on the drives side. Now I feel confident that it will be a smooth job
Tip: When removing the hub if you put the nut back on just a turn or two you can give it a quick pull and it will pop that outer wheel bearing out without it hitting the floor.
Also, that keyed nut for the hub has a torque spec of 20ftlbs. If you don't want to spend the money on the $100 special socket, I would say just make sure to snug it but it should definitely not have any play.
Great video for us DIY'ers. Thanks
Also, great mention about getting the fluid in those bearings for the floating axle. TBH burning them up is the only reason I just pack them by hand and also tilt the axles for 5 min each side before driving.
@@TheRobbie8919standard assembly lubricant is ideal and what is called for in spicer’s and the Dana service manual.
Lucas oil stabilizer says it’s a “premium assembly lubricant for engines, manual gearboxes and axles” and supposedly mixes fine with gear oil.
I packed oil bathed axle bearings with grease on hundreds of vehicles while working at new car dealerships back when all most all cars and trucks had them and I never had any comebacks or complaints about it,
but now 20 years later while working on my own full floating Dana axle, I see in the service manual they say you should never do that with bearings that are in an oil bath because grease contaminates gear oil and it will reduce it’s ability to flow around and lubricate the bearings when they mix together and gum up in the bearing cages.
Apparently gear oil and bearing/chassis greases should never be mixed. Like I said I did it as a paid professional without any apparent problems on a weekly basis so…. Doing it certainly doesn’t guarantee problems, or at least not anything catastrophic.
Just food for thought.
I did use the Lucas this time because it was cheap and readily available
and our spindles and hubs are no longer made by any of the oem suppliers so if we ruin one we gotta deal with the one aftermarket guy that wants $600 for one hub and $700 for a spindle. 👊
Love your helper teaching then young! Great video thanks!
Family man mechanic I love it, good job sir
Very helpful thank you very much I’m not a mechanic by any means and I found this video very helpful continue to make great videos
Preciate this video brother!!! Didnt seem like it took long at all besides having to clean it good which is a real stickler for me. gotta clean it!!! Im gonna get started on this!!
I changed my rear pads on my one ton today and noticed a little grease back behind the pads and I suspect this is my issue. I’m ABSOLUTELY no mechanic but after watching your video 3 times I think I can do this. I think I would like to change out the race’s though. Thanks for helping dummies like me.
No problem, the race change is never a bad idea.
good man telling your wife you got time to talk to her even though you're recording, haha brownie points!
Thanks good info . Doing my duelly Monday waiting on parts
i have a 2010 3500 would the torque procedure be the same? thanks
Hi, good video, thank you. I read somewhere about tilting the truck after to ensure the new bearings and diff fluid has circulated before driving. Is that needed or just bs? Please let me know. Thanks
Yes tilting certainly won’t hurt to make sure it gets fluid to both sides
Hey boss! Im going to be doing this job on my 15’ 5500 service truck. Any difference between the 3500 and 5500 rear? This video is very helpful if its the same. Thanks bud!
I’ll be honest haven’t done much on the 5500s, would have to do a little looking to see if it’s the same
It would depend on what axle you have. Dana 70s and 80s like this could very well come in some 5500 chassis cab platforms.
Or you could have a AAM axle. Truck axles are always a cluster f*%k because each platform had numerous different options for axles available for each different model/year. Axles varied within same year same model because of things like optional hd towing packages, fifth wheel prep and snow plow prep packages. Different combinations got different axles under them.
Best to check your axle tag, next best would be the trucks build sheet by vin then in a last ditch effort only, run the rpo codes. 👊
If both went out did you check your vent
All good on the vent and good since the swap
I thought my dodge had blow by making a nasty burning oil smell for over a year now till I noticed a large puddle of oil that smelled like gear lube 🤮at work. Looked underneath and sure as heck. Axle seal and a small bit of pinion seal leak. Been procrastinating replacing parking breaks ,much needed with the manual transmission. Uggh. Not looking forward to this.
It’s a bigger job, but you can make it happen
How do you know which bearings are not supposed to be packed and which ones use gear oil
It depends on if the bearing will receive the gear oil or if it’s sealed away from it. My ram has floating axles and both outer bearing take gear oil. Just have to consult the manufacturer specs on your application
To refill the fluid do I just pull the drain plug on the dif cover?
Yes fill until it starts to overflow then cap it
2014 3500 cab n chassis everything same as this or?
Yes they should match best of my knowledge
Do you remember the part number for the seals?
I don’t, I can try to get them tho
Doing my truck this weekend can you help with the parts information please sir great video
@@davidmedina5140 710563 part number at advance for the seal
# S-A-38 for wheel bearing
How much fluid and where do you put it in at?
To the rear chunk you fill it to the bottom of the “check” plug
@Crutchfield Automotive appreciate the video and the answer. Confident I can do my own now
No problem at all
Never place timken bearings in a race dry and rotate them. 😢
Only thing missing was a dog
whenever you replace a bearing you always replace the bearing race you’re wasting your time putting a new bearing in an old race
Nearly a year later and all still good 🤷🏻♂️
Not true as long as you can drag you nail across the race and nothing catches and there is no pits it’s an acceptable part to reuse….. it’s even in the standard repair practice for most shops.