Comparing Three Drywall Patch Methods
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- I compare and contrast three methods for patching holes in drywall:
1. Drydex spackling and aluminum mesh patch
2. "California" (butterfly) patch
3. Traditional support board patch
Really just looking for pros and cons more than anything else.
00:00 Introduction
00:15 Drydex and Mesh Demonstration
03:36 Drydex Pros and Cons
04:12 California/Butterfly Patch Demonstration
10:03 California Patch Pros and Cons
11:06 Traditional Patch Demonstration
15:31 Traditional Patch Pros and Cons
16:07 Conclusions
RELATED PRODUCTS:
Porter Cable PCE605K Oscillating Tool: granworks.com/amazon/porter-c...
Drydex Patch Kit : granworks.com/amazon/drydex-p...
Sheetrock Joint Compound : granworks.com/amazon/joint-co...
Wal-board 6" Joint Knife :
Wal-board 12" Taping Knife :
Wal-board Aluminum Hawk :
(No links for the Wal-board since I don't recommend them. Get stainless steel drywall knives and consider a mud pan instead of a hawk)
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I've done construction for over 10 years, this was a great breakdown of those 3 methods. Point of order on the "traditional support board" method, you can just use an adequately sized piece of drywall or two instead of a board. And I'd add a 4th method, cut a bigger hole going to the studs on either side and patch that with a solid piece. Pros are more support and cleaner lines, cons are obviously the increase in materials.
I have a few helpful, positive pointers for you and everyone watching. Overall, a good attempt but I guarantee that most of these repairs will still show. The thing about UA-cam is, everyone's repairs look good on camera, but our eyes see so much more. And after 35 years of doing this, here's some things that will help these NOT show.
First off, anything you coat something wider than 6" just break out the wider 12" knife as soon as you are coating the whole repair. It will come out smoother and with less lines, plus you'll put it on more level. We call it floating out the repair.
For sanding, when you used the vacuum sander, that's great for the middle section and will level the repair much better than a sanding sponge, BUT you NEED to use the sanding sponge on the edges to Feather out the edge. See the edge on the left side of the repair at 10:00? That will show, but with some light sanding with a sanding sponge, it would go away. The flat hand sander won't feather out those edges and that's why it still shows.
The texture at that time above, looks pretty decent, but should have been sprayed heavier. Same with the final repair. And let it sit longer before knocking it down as it laid down too thin by knocking it down too soon. I recommend practicing on some scrap first but if you come up light like that, you can just spray a little more on, wait again and then knock it down.
Making the hole fit the patch is smart, and how I do it. And you can do a repair in as little as 30 minutes as a pro, but you have to know how to use it. You can get 20 or 45 minute hot mud (fast setting joint compound) and it's safer for novices. With hot mud you can recoat as many times as you want in one day, but it's very hard to sand, so only use it if you can put it on smooth. OR, when putting all purpose mud on thin like in these repairs, put a fan on it. I carrry 2 large and 2 small fans just for that reason. With a fan, even all purpose will dry in hours.
Next, ALWAYS use joint tape on a seam that goes all the way through the rock. You can hide it with out it, but it may crack again in days. And remove the cover plate, as it will be a lot easier to work around.
Just trying to help you guys do it better. That's why I'm passing on my 35 years of drywall experience on my channel. So I hope that helped everyone watching this video.
Well it's less noticeable then a gaping hole
Awesome
Thank you
Hey, you seem pretty up on your drywall, so I'm going to ask you for an honest answer. When doing what he calls a butterfly patch, pretty much do the same, with a couple of exceptions. Measure and cut a square (or rectangle) piece of drywall with a speed square or drywall square. You'll have to choose a measurement a bit larger than the hole, but don't just use a random piece. The measurement will make sense in a minute. Use your level, and place the square on the wall surrounding the hole with the hole directly in the center, and trace that shape on the wall. Set it aside. Get your tape out, and measure out and mark with your level, a tic tac toe shape with the center square around the hole. The outer dimensions of the tic tac toe should be 2-3" larger than the center square depending on the size of the patch. Cut that center square out. NOW! score the wall around the large square you drew on the wall, and peel the paper (and layer of paint) off surrounding the hole to the outer square you scored. Then, copy that pattern to the piece you cut out, and break off the edges but peeling the edges off, leaving the paper. The result being, that when you fit the piece of drywall in, not only does it fill the hole, the paper you peeled off the wall is now filled EXACTLY by the wings on the patch. The reason why I do this, is because when I'm patching a flat untextured wall, then painting it with an eggshell or satin which makes the tiniest imperfections pop out, other patch methods will show the patch behind the final paint much easier. Especially if you use mesh tape to simply cover the hole and then mud. Of course A lot of it has to do with your mudding and sanding, but I've found this is the best way, especially in an area where u don't have much room to feather out. Have you ever done this? LOL, I know it sounds tedious, but trying to describe it takes a whole hell of a lot more time then the actual work. You also come across as a know it all, and I want to take you down a notch. LOL! Just kidding, you're very knowledgeable and helpful. Have you ever come across this method? When someone showed me this process, I was thrilled. It was a wizard by the way. A magical drywall wizard. If you do like my idea, and want to put it on your UA-cam, just give me a shout out. Cheers!
!You talk to much, that "thing" can be done with little exp 10 mis taht's it!!!🤔👍
Great video. I genuinely appreciate the effort you put into making this video. Thank you so much.
Babyfacebeasty.
I'm just a homeowner with little construction knowledge, but I am completely on the side of a california patch. It doesn't take much practice to make the wings, just make more cuts so you're only pulling off small sections at a time. as your video shows, even if you do tear the paper, it will be covered up with the mud.
But what I truly love about this method is when you're done, you have nothing but solid drywall. No screws, no patch, no fiddling with a block of wood. Even any gaps between the patch and existing wall will be filled with mud, so its like there was never any hole there at all. The only evidence is the extra layer of paper that made up your wings, and that's just bonus.
I seriously recommend everyone, especially amateurs like me, to learn the california method. It's totally worth it.
The California patch is easy but when I do repairs I go with the piece of wood behind it guarantees that the repair is going to be solid just in case the mud does not hold between the repair joint for some reason.
Also the way this guy is holding his tools I would be leery to let him patch my wall lol
@@edmundfrausto7588 That is what i do, backing and tape. Ten times faster and stronger.
Your video is the most comprehensive I’ve seen on this subject. I choose number 3
Cheers mate
Great vid. What I appreciate about this vid is it actually shows the completed repair with texture and paint. So many others stop after the repair
I use triple expanding foam.
I try to put a large amount into the hole and let it expand behind the sheet rock and some outside the hole.
The next day or later that day, I cut the dry foam sticking out of the hole with a box cutter and try to get it flush to the wall.
I then sand it until it is completely flush to the wall.
Then cover with fast dry spackling because the foam has tiny holes and let it dry and then sand it again.
I then paint with a textured pain roller to make sure it cannot be seen.
I have used this for a large hole and you cannot see the hole at all.
Easy peasy!
Thank you 😊 💓
@@constancejenkins3867 I think the big gap filler is the new name of the foam.
It is so easy my way.
It just takes a little longer because things has to dry, but the total work time is so short.
Easy peasy!
@@ccvovoom Thank you 😊
For the California patch. Put it backside up on the edge of a table where the cut is. Then push down and break to the paper then simply move the patch towards the center of the table a 1/4 inch or so at a time while pushing down on the smaller cut piece. That will sort of roll the piece off the paper.
Thanks for the video - big help for me after I punched a hole in drywall like an idiot! Although as a scale modeler I gotta recommend to people to wear a N95 mask when sanding - even if have a shop vac as the dust from sanding is very fine
What I do is a modified version where I use furrying strips on the back just like a regular drywall patch. I mix up quick set 5 or 20 to hold the patch in place along with some drywall screws.
Beautiful job! Thank you for sharing dear!
excellent comparison that I have never seen before.Thank you. learned a lot.
8:45 It was such a relief to see you ditch that awful scraper for a wide knife; so much less sanding. I'll use cheap plastic knives or traditional blued drywall knives (of all sizes) but those little stainless steel putty knives just can't taper the edges smooth enough. Good explanations for all 3 methods, though. The careful use of hot mud or even a bit of plaster of Paris mixed in with the ready-mixed mud might have sped up your work without that expensive pink stuff.
You have to moisten the butterfly wings to keep the patch from moving back out of the hole. It prevents the air bubbles from pushing it out.
I'm a novice and literally have my 6"X10" California patch cut and ready to install. Wouldn't the joint compound immediately moisten the paper wings as you are embedding the wings in compound?
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
#3 mix 50/50 plaster and compound no water put it on a little heavy keep an eye on it 10-15 its sets as its almost dry pull it again with the tape knives ,might have to pull hard but it will take most of the lines then hit it lightly with a damp sponge to feather it tada
Best video ever thanks 🙏
Thanks this will help me a lot
I use 3/8 on the CA patch. DON'T forget to wet the patch wings on the side touching the wall. ALSO, make more cuts! I would have make about 5 or 6 cuts per side to snap out smaller pieces gypsum. I have fixed holes up to 18" pretty easily only allowing 3" on wings and you don't need tape.
I am no pro, but I have been using the butterfly method for years on small to medium holes. It is done a really good job for me. It does not take all that much practice.
Thank you so much for making this video. You showed everything, step-by-step. I'm going to use method #3, the traditional method, to patch the large hole in my utility closet (where the patch will not be seen except by insects!). I appreciate you!
Great video! Thanks!!
Thanks so much for this video! Great explanations, very clear and easy to follow. This video helped me a lot with my project!
Definitely remove the covers in your third patch so the edges of your patch contact the edges of the boxes and wind up under the covers. (turn off power so your drywall knife or mud doesn't contact the hot screw of the receptacle or pull the receptacle out and wrap electrical tape around it then reinstall and turn power back on) Don't use drywall mud for glue it makes your patch stand out further because it's hard to squeeze the mud out even using screws. Use either a little construction adhesive or some cheap caulk at worst case. Most cheap siliconized acrylic caulk will do a fine job as an adhesive)
Forget the pre-drilling for drywall screws. I use plywood when I can for backers and add a little adhesive or caulk so the backer wood holds better to the back of the drywall edges for a little insurance.
Your comment on the third patch about "a hole this size may or may not require tape along the seams" is extremely wrong. A nickel sized hole is the smallest I would consider not taping. Otherwise the edges without tape will eventually crack. Some newer advanced (and expensive) spackling compounds have elastomeric polymers that help bridge any cracks. I don't use them because of the cost.
Re 2nd Calif patch, what joint compound used? Ready-mixed or Hot-mud? When all done, can you apply 5 pounds pressure to it? Thanks,
I used ready-mix. And yep, it can easily handle 5 pounds pressure.
Security deposit has reentered the chat! Thanks guy
This was great - how do you go about TEXTURING the surface to get it ready for paint? While it was still pink, did you put something against it to give the effect that your wall already had? In my case, I'm just replacing simple drywall that had paint rolled over it. Would using a paint roller match the texturing effect, or do I need to do more to the surface once it is dry? Thanks for any advice you can give
In my case, my walls had a knockdown texture and so I just got a spray can of similar texture from Home Depot and followed the directions. It definitely takes practice.
If your walls aren't textured, then it's going to be notably easier. Yes, just paint it. But, I'd suggest first painting on a primer -- the patching compound will absorb paint at a vastly different rate than the surrounding already-painted area and a non-primed surface will look glaringly different. If you really want the patch to disappear, you'll also (in addition to primer) paint a much wider area than just the patched area -- possibly even the entire wall. Paint fades over time so there is almost zero chance of perfectly matching it.
Whats the standard texture part in application #2? Really a brand new 12 inch plaster spatula for that! 4 inch would have worked just as well and every part time do it yourself'er has one. Method 3: that's an easy way to scratch your floor. At least put some cheap cardboard under when your cutting the gyp-rock. What did you pre drill for? No tape ok if your going to texture it, I think. I always use method 3. But, You can use any wood or tin stud for the back support and your wall patch doesn't have to be so perfect because the plaster tape will over the edges. Dry dex in my opinion doesn't sand as smooth as plaster so best for small nail holes or a textured wall. Never use it on ceilings or visual areas on a smooth surface. your texturing was really nice though. How'd you match textures, that's my biggest problem when patching stucco or a textured wall.
See the mesh still shows a bit even though I but more than I anticipated. Let dry an put on another coat of spakling?
The thickness of the patch matters if you're patching over a stud or the hole is large enough that you will need to screw in a support behind it.
I’m repairing a hole on a wall that has a pocket door behind, so I don’t think there’s enough room for the support board. Would the California patch be a good option and strong enough to hand a towel holder on?
Yes, a California patch would very likely be strong enough, as long as no significant weight was applied to the towel holder. Make sure the patch is slightly oversized and put plenty of joint compound on the edges of the patch.
dang i learned a lot here
yeah same here
Is this patched in the October update?
Hi kert, I'm bert. Nice to meet you.
What's the strongest kind of patch? I've been a douchebag to my parents and I wanna make it up to them by doing something good for once.
If the hole is notably small (quarter size, give or take), then the mesh patch is plenty strong. If it's bigger or if you're going to be hanging heavy stuff off it, though, then the traditional option where you place the strapping behind the patch will absolutely be the strongest. The strapping behind it evens any load on the patch over a much larger area.
@@granworks another good tip is to use the strapping method behind doors if you've knocked holes in the wall before. It gives a LOT more support to the area and it's less likely to punch a hole in down the line.
good on you ethan, im here for the same reason lol
Fix the drywall. Don't be a scumbag and patch it.
Max Berry patches are most times noticeable. Arghh
me encanta este video y prefiero el California metodo de todos los 3.
Great video. But how do you texture the surface at 3:30?
These walls have a "knockdown" texture (not "orange peel" as I first thought) and so I got some Homax Knockdown Wall Texture spray from Home Depot. I sprayed a coat over the patch and then used a slightly wet putty knife to knock it down. It definitely takes some practice to be able to match an existing texture.
Thank you.
I'd be tempted to use the patch as an excuse to skim the whole thing. I don't mind texture on ceilings, but I hate it on walls. Too much dust accumulation, aggravation having to match textures, and all around busyness. Seems the further SW you go in this country, the more willing people are to put up with textured walls.
how do you match the texture of the surrounding drywall?
Trial and error, in my case. I bought a few texture sprays and tried them all to see what was closest. Then it was a matter of spraying, feathering, and wiping clean and trying again, if not right
Practice practice
If you don't want to see the hump. You have to be much wider around the patch.
why the drywall has to be same thickness.....cant you fill it up with mud if the patch is thinner?
The problem with using mud to fill up that much space is that it becomes too thick. Thick mud dries much faster on the surface than deeper down and will almost surely crack, as a result. You could just apply multiple thin layers and let it dry in between, but that's too tedious.
I suppose you could also gamble that the cracks are small enough that they will be covered by the texture.
All in all, it's just easier to have the same thickness for the patch when using support boards behind it or going with the California patch when using thinner drywall.
how long does it take to dry the drywall.
I don't why not mention it, it,s take 24 hrs
Why didn’t u just put a paint stir stick behind the block of drywall and screw in the lower and upper part with drywall screws.
Yeah, that would work. I didn't have any stir sticks available when I did this video, though, and I do have random bits of wood. Use what you have!
I just did that yesterday. The stir stick splits. Too thin.
Would have liked to see how you textured it.
I purposely didn't show it in any detail since I'm terrible at texturing. Coincidentally, somebody commented just yesterday that I need to work on that -- I agree.
Matching texture is more difficult than patching. There are texture spray cans with adjustments to match various textures. Take a while to set it up using trial and error to get it just right on a test surface before you let her rip. www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-20-oz-Wall-Orange-Peel-Low-Odor-Water-Based-Spray-Texture-4092-06/100154309
0:00 Great, I rather prefer it when these things don't get long winded
The way those California patch is made is made is just putting up the drywall up to wall also it's easier to have the hole made before hand.
What's the maximum size of a hole that can be sustainably fixed by the California method? I messed up part of a wall when I fell down a short thing of stairs while messing around with my sister, and I really don't want my mom to have to pay for it (I didn't get hurt at all - I didn't even notice the hole until we were talking by there later). I think the California method would work, but I'm not sure if it's too big. It's an oval shape about 13.5" at it longest length point and 6.5" at it's highest width.
The maximum size would come into play more based on how much load it would have vs how big it is. A hole that size will be comfortably filled by a California patch as long as there is no load on it (nothing hanging, etc). If there ever would be a load on it, then I would strongly suggest going with the traditional style with some kind of backer piece.
@@granworks no load on the wall! I think it'd be a good fit then! Thank you so much! ☺
@@whish67 how did it go?
How many of you were looking at that Les Paul? Lol
Or the Grestch orange wall?
Too funny! In this case, it’s just a coincidence, but you’re right that the color is so similar to Gretsch orange. Heh
Drydex dries terrible and leaves ridges. It’s harder to feather out. I would only recommend using this on nail holes from hanging pictures. It’s best to put it on and remove any excess with the drywall knife. The blow out patch is only good like he said if you are used to making it. Otherwise you’re just going to waste time and drywall trying to cut the perfect wings out over and over again. Securing drywall with a piece of wood acting as the stud is a sound method if you have everything readily available. I didn’t and had to waste time going to Home Depot to get a piece of scrap wood and small sheet of drywall. Those metal (not the thin aluminum kind) drywall patches come in handy as they do not bubble and you only need to apply mud sand and skim. Other methods are more popular because they require measuring and make you seem like a would be carpenter but in actuality take the most time to rig.
👍👍👍👍
at 14:05, barely even mixing it just flipping it over a few times.
Great content!
Bruuuuuutal background music
Would rather just hear ya talk
You sound like Ed Norton
You sound just like Edward Norton
Next time you need to patch...give this a shot.
Watch "Perfect Drywall Patch How To (TIPS PROS DON'T EVEN KNOW!)" on UA-cam
ua-cam.com/video/9XHCYGbnkRo/v-deo.html
How was the texture added? You kind of blew past that.
The focus of this video was on comparing three different styles of patching drywall. Texturing, on the other hand, is an art form that needs to be matched to the wall's existing texture. I'm terrible at it. Given that, I decided to just focus on the drywall patch process itself and let others far better at texturing than myself show how to do that!
@@granworks Thanks for the fast reply. No worries about the texture. The texture I want is the basic texture of drywall it doesn't look like it's patched. Things are not going as well with my patch job (mesh) using that Drydex. My results on the first coat are nothing like yours. It's bubbling out through the mesh. I think I am going to be putting a lot of coats on this.
Yes, use tape on the 3rd method. Cracks will appear very soon.
I just tried my first California patch today and it completely failed on me. The drywall wouldn't snap clean and then the patch just wanted to float into the wall when I tried to secure the patch. I ended up going back to the other method that I always use with the scrap wood behind the patch. I had the hole sealed in no time.
Yeah, I found the California path to be finicky, as well. Type X drywall with the embedded fibers made it particularly tricky. It does look very nice and it's nominally easy when it does work, though.
3 days to complete, ha tell my boss that
Other than that "California" patch, use tape or mesh. I like the self sticking mesh although not as strong as paper tape. The first repair, no need to use a patch making more work than required.
The steel patch from Home Depot trumps all these methods.
@@AlmightyEvil1 Sure if you do one or two of those for homeowner DIY. For multiple patches as property manager, wood backer and tape is the way to go. Cheap and fast, and that's what the pros do.
Unnecessary use of the metal patch. Just use hot mud. Much stronger.
Stick a flathead screwdriver in the outlet and get a jolt......the jolt will make your muscles grow and you can drive at night better
I just use foam filler, cut off the excess and smooth a bit of filler on top.
Why don't you try using a 4 or 6-inch putty knife
Cover with ..Drywall MESS Tape...before ...and you will not! Regret it folks!✌
Do you mean MESH tape?
Helpful. But, thickness does matter. Not all holes will have empty space behind them. If you have a stud showing with 1/2" drywall, you wouldn't use a 5/8" patch. Likely just an amateur miss. Nice job.
Yes the last one will crack …….. but good attempted not knowing.
why not show the complete job? the texture is why i watched because we have the same texture.
Without tape, that is 100 percent certain to crack.
You aren't the first person to be so certain it will crack... but no, it isn't at all certain. In fact, the patch in question has been up for just over 3 years and hasn't cracked at all. It won't.
Context matters! Drywall joints crack without tape due to fact that drywall mud has terrible shear strength and the normal movement of the wall will move more than the mud is capable of. Tape has comparable strength to the drywall itself and so buffers those stresses. But this was done in a house that is long past settling, constructed with block constructed so very little movement, and in a climate (Phoenix AZ) where humidity rarely changes much and never gets high. There simply isn't going to be very much movement in the first place. And, indeed, there hasn't been and so it hasn't cracked.
take off the outlet covers could have made it easier. good video otherwise
Hack work
No mesh tape on last patch, will probably crack
Mesh tape is actually the more inferior tape, compared to paper! Both do work in small patch jobs like these. It has been a few years since I did these patches and I can confirm that none have cracked at all.
Granworks Workshop ok so don’t use any at all then and see what happens, I’ve been painting for 16 years and own a residential painting company, I understand which tapes are used for different things. I’ve never seen anyone do a patch and not tape it. That’s a no brained for me. Also professionals use quickset
Heh... so that made me re-watch the video since I don't remember not using any tape. Sure enough, I did skip tape on the third patch -- I forgot about that! As I explained in the video, though, I was definitely taking a risk by not taping it at all and I do recommend doing so -- I didn't simply due to my limited space. But as I said, it hasn't cracked, so I gambled and so far it hasn't bit me.
And yes, I realize that pros use the quick setting mud. I am very clearly not a pro! Quick set mud requires being very quick and I'm super slow.
You need work on your knockdown method.
Nice job mostly. You must not know about the worlds fastest, least expensive, easiest and the best ending result. From a couple of inches to a couple of feet it will work on any size hole. Now of course the larger the hole the more work required. The finishing surface will be uniform with the surrounding original surface.
Sounds good so far right?
What if the the main part can be used for something completely different something that ends up to be a big problem for them.
That is mounting hanging attaching something to any wall made of a “drywall” type construction.
My dual purpose system is the flat out the best way to patch drywall and it is the worlds strongest drywall anchoring system and it takes the same or less effort and skill to do.
What’s that how strong you ask? Even if you use your professional hammer to try and pull it free like pulling a nail with that hammer of yours. You would crush the drywall making a big hole. The anchor will not be pulled free! Up to 3/4” even a full inch bolt down to 1/8”
I have used this a few times outside of the many times I demonstrated it.
I have given up keeping any and all of my inventions a secret. So here is the simple to make and use central component it is …. So so simple…. ready just like if you took a closed drink umbrella pushed into the wall cavity then open it and stick it to the inside of the wall.
OMG i need to start making videos because this guy is basically a butcher, he has no idea what he is doing and is making an easy job much more difficult than it needs to be
This guy makes drywall guys look dumb it's bad enough drywall guys are drunks but come on man making them look dumb smh...
music is really irritating, otherwise thanks
Last one no tape
Ok 🙄
*UMMMM WHY COULDNT YOU JUST SHOW US HOW TO TEXTURIZE THE WALL AS WELLL!?!?!?!?!*
That wasn’t the point of the video AND I’m not very good at that. Better to get that info from the pros
don't for get to mop your edges... I can totally see your California patch...
What do they call a California patch in California lol
Using that spackle is a horrible patch
Stop making this sound like "rocket science"
brickscity77 lol. Some people can’t help it.
You have a novice understanding of what you're doing. All 3 patches can be completed in a day. Your technique in most of this needs work. It's a Dry wall saw, not a jab saw. You should always use tape. Lastly, for the 3 method, the dry wall does not need to be the same thickness. It just needs to be the same or smaller. Quick setting drywall compound can set in 20 mins or less.
Yes, I’m undeniably a novice and have never claimed otherwise. Agreed on all points. I do specifically avoid quick set mud because it sets TOO fast and I work very slowly.
@@granworks there is 45 and 90 minute speed set. Your mud is too thick, which is why it takes you so long. With speed set, all three could be done in an hour, 3 if its 90 minute, and if you learn to prep, apply, sponge you would have little or no sanding.
Had to turn it down completely until I needed to hear something. Terrible, repetitive music.
This guy does not have much experience with drywall/repairs. You can tell by which products he uses, and how he uses the mud knives.
Dude entirely skips prep work! (the most important steps in any project like this)
What prep work would you suggest?
Clean the wall, prime the painted area, protect the floor, remove wall plates, thin the mud (that way you don't have more than a little sanding or sponging)
Next time please leave out the annoying endlessly rapping excuse for music!
Doo doo bruh doo doo.
All of these are terrible methods. Sad!
How so? What method do you prefer?
Buy a 2x2' patch for $4, or a whole sheet for $12, buy 1x3" lath, paper tape, . Cut the hole large enough to determine the location of the studs. Expose 3/4" along the stud, minimum 16" high, larger if there are outlets interfering, Screw in the existing drywall with a drywall tip, if there are no screws along your patch. Cut your patch to size. Cut the 1x3" lath to span the top and bottom of the patch. Screw the lath into the top and bottom existing drywall using a drywall screw tip. Fit the patch. Screw the patch in. Mud the patch. Measure paper tape to fit. Wet the tape. Squeeze the tape between two fingers to remove excess water. Press in your paper tape with your 6" knife into the mud you laid. Apply a light coat, enough to still see the tape over it after. Come back in two hours, knock down high spots, apply a much larger area of thinner mud. Come back in an hour, knock down any lines, lightly sand, apply an even larger area planing the wall to make the patch not visible. Sand, sponge edges to reduce patch texture difference to preexisting paint. Repeat as necessary.
Job 1 error: The "spackle" you used never blends in, sands poorly as it is always soft, and your coverage was too small. Mesh requires larger coverage.
Job 2 error: California patch has no structural integrity. Will likely result in a repeat problem, with a different shape.
Job 3 error: Patch isn't secured in the top right and bottom left. It will fail on both corners. No reason to not span the studs, no reason to 45 the wood.
Your method could be described as the "I never want a call-back" Contractor method. Heh. Indeed, going to that level certainly results in a bulletproof patch that rivals just replacing the entire sheet of drywall. I would argue that in 99% of cases, it would be extreme overkill and any one of the methods I describe will work functionally as well with less effort... but if I'm getting paid to do it and I never want to come back to fix it, then overkill may be just the right amount.
Thanks for sharing.
Why not do the California patch with a support behind? No paper needed, smooth and durable finish, strongest of all.
Great video! Thanks!