Thanks a lot it makes me happy to see that my english video is not so bad like I thought in the beginning. Due to all the nice comments I am thinking to switch to english. I will do an survey in my next video to check what the viewers think and will decide after how to go on. Would be nice if you attend the survey as well in my next video.
You prolly dont give a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all the new movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my gf for the last few months =)
@@technikstudio7504 oh man, I hope you do. I really like your presenting style (no nonsense, straight to the point!) but I only know how to ask for a cheese sandwich in German!
Agree with the previous comment its not my printer but my next door neighbour is printing after the frame assembly, Its doing its thing... few ghosting issues but really good quality prints otherwise. Maybe do an update review
Thanks a lot. In the last month I had not much time to do new videos. I hope this will change soon. So in the future will come more videos, in english as well.
you did a good job with the English. Thanks for the review and explanation of problems. I am looking forward to getting one of these printer. The A10M, 2 color printer.
Thanks a lot. Yes the most printers from people I got feedback were delivered in much better condition. Let me know about the condition of yours as soon as you received it.
Hello, thanks for your video and feedback. I will forward your feedback to the relevant colleagues. We will have better quality control for the printers and avoid these issues happen again. As for the cooling fan issue, please check if there is a little SMD resistor missing in the fan. Thanks!
Geeetech i was about to get one of these printers, however these issues seem to be in a few other videos. This would be my first printer and thanks to this video and your response, I will wait for these issues to be solved. How long should I wait or these problems won’t be solved in the near future? Pricewise and quality printing looks amazing.
Hello Javier, thanks for your interest. These issues are because of poor quality control and caused during delivery. But it is not a common phenomena. Most people give good comment on A10. We have double emphasized with the factory to make full quality control/check before shipping.
Yesterday I returned my A10 because of many quality issues even I could fix most of them. At end I gave up because of smoke that came from the electronics. There is now a new one on the way to me, but I get nervous when I see there are many more quality problems I could face.
You seemed to get all the problem in one printer. I ordered my A10 after watching your review (and others for several brands) knowing full well that QC on products coming from China is often worse than the old adage of never purchasing a car made in the USA and assembled on a Monday after a holiday. I've had mine for 3-4 months and haven't had the problems you encountered. Mine came with the filament sensor and a removable glass bed (clips holds in place), it seems specifications on things coming out of China change without notice, and about the only issue I had when assembled was that the Y axis belt runs against the one side of the front bearing and not in the center. I've tried to adjust it, but it still tracks off to one side. However, I'm now having a problem with the part cooling fan bearing acting up and will need to replace the fan one of these days with a better one. Adding a drop or two of oil is on the agenda for now. I've upgraded mine with TMC2208 drivers on the X,Y,Z and added a duct cover for the main board fan and now the machine's noise level has dropped quite a bit and it no longer "sings" to me when in motion. Next I want to pull the no-name brand power supply off, open it up, and see if I can add a thermal switch to cycle its fan and reduce the overall noise even more. I saw a video that shows how to do this mod. Overall, I'm happy with the printer and with the 32 bit 24 volt board and the ability to add plug-in BL bed leveling think it was a better choice for me than the Ender-3 that was also in the running at the time. Buying any printer for under $200 US should come with a warning to be prepared to spend a few dollars finishing it and not to assume that it will not need TLC.
Had the same issue with the bed stopping on bumps when sliding with my hand. I didn't make any adjustments and noticed that it doesn't seem to happen when the motor moves the bed, only when I move by hand, it is really noticable, as if the wheels have a chunk missing out of them as they go round. Test prints so far reveal that it doesn't seem to affect anything so I've left alone. My levelling issue wasn't as bad as yours though. About 0.1mm difference on mine.
Ok pretty interesting that this issue is not noticeable on your printer when the motor is moving the bed. I did not check it I adjusted it before I did the first print. After fixing all these issues it is a great printer in my oppinion.
@@technikstudio7504 Not sure what difference it makes but I have the A10M version (I think it's the same just with a Y extruder). I checked during assembly that the bed level wasn't affected with this bumping, and it seemed to be okay. I haven't printed anything big yet, just the lizard on the card and some other little bits which came out fine. Your video is very helpful though, as I could not pin down why it was sticking. It seems to be the wheels have a flat spot, as it does it on each full revolution, but visually they are all round. I may have to revisit this another day after I've ironed out more pressing problems. It certainly has potential to be a great printer, just wish they would share Gcode settings to get the most from it, as the test prints come out great, but my Cura settings come out stringy and hugely under extruded. Not sure if this is where I used old filament though which clogged the nozzle slightly, will need to check again as after printing a few things I noticed that some of that old colour suddenly appear on my first layer, several prints later. This was filament that I had to put in the oven as it had gone hard.
@@technikstudio7504 Okay I've found this issue with the bumping. Turns out that the soft V slot wheels over time develop a flat spot when left alone, due to the tightness against the frame. It goes away after running the printer for a while. Not sure what the trick is here to solve this. My X-Axis was fine but a bit loose, causing levelling issues, so I tightened the wheels but now they have the same problem. At the moment I'm trying to find a happy middle ground but would love to know if anyone has solved this issue. Maybe harder wheels are the answer?
I had no issues with X axis. On Y I turned the aluminium extrusion 180 deg. But I think this is no solution for you because as I know the extrusion on the new A10 is assembled in other direction. I think as long the extrusions have bumps there is only the possibility to change the extrusion?!
@@technikstudio7504 So has your issue gone away now? I believe the wheels on mine (maybe they are different to yours) are too soft and pliable, which makes them flatten out very slightly over time when left in one place. After you then move it, you have the square wheel effect. I know this is the cause as I mentioned my X Axis now does it after tightening the wheels against the frame.
Hi there I have watched a few of your videos on the A10 now and noticed your videos are 2 years old now. Can Geeetech confirm that the issues have been resolved by now as I’m more pushed towards the ender 3 for a starter printer than the geeetech at this stage many thanks keep up the great work. Andreas
I bought this wheels . Aibecy 10pcs Plastik Großes Modell Passive runde Rad-Rolle mit Lager-Zahnrad-Rad für CNC i3 3D Drucker www.amazon.de/dp/B075MD8GCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8XZuCbKS2B8RY
Sehr informatives Video, vor allem wegen der "kleinen" Fehler die an einem nagelneuen Drucker auftauchen. Habe mir bei "Aliexpress" einen für 175 € bestellt. Bin jetzt vorgewarnt hinsichtlich der Produktionsqualität. Werde den Aufbau mal protokollieren , ob die Fehler inzwischen behoben sind. Apropo Englisch - ist OK - ,der deutsche Akzent ist in den USA sogar recht beliebt. Und man redet keinen Müll bei technischen Themen. Very informative video, especially because of the "small" errors that appear on a brand new printer. I ordered one at "Aliexpress" for 175 €. I am now forewarned regarding the production quality. Will log the structure times, whether the errors are now fixed. Apropo English - is OK - , the German accent is even quite popular in the US. And you do not talk trash about technical issues.
Danke dir für deinen Kommentar. Ja du wirst wahrscheinlich eine upgedatet Version erhalten. Denn Geeetech hat dem A10 ein riesiges Update spendiert. Aber bin sehr gespannt wie die Qualität bei deinem Drucker ist. Danke für deine Meinung über mein Englisch. Thanks for your comment. I think you will receive an updated version. Geeetech did a huge update to the A10. I am very interested in the quality condition your printer will arrive. Thanks for your oppinion about my english.
Hello, My Geeetech A10 is saying Error no filament but I fed the filament through to the end, do you have any clue why it might say this? Great video by the way!
Hello, are you using an filament run out sensor? Is it damaged? Or did you forgot to install the filament run out sensor? On my version there was no sensor for the filament. I think if the firmware is able to show up this error massage there should be one implementet.
I bought this one today ! I see more and more negative points about it ? I don’t know if I need to send it back to Gearbest and take another one ? What do you think about this one today after the issues
Consistently bad machines?? I bought an A 10 M dual color for $300. It knocked every model (8) off the platform at 30 mm Z height. I sent it back, after trying to invert the lead screw, etc. to no avail. I traded up to the A 20 M for $400, and it failed on the first 3 attempts. It drags the. model and the cheap, plastic sheet off of the work platform at 56mm z height. I now have a dozen colorful, but headless dogs. I attribute it to using cheap, threaded rod instead of precision lead screws, but it could be the lack of hold-down on that plastic work surface. BTW: scroll down to the mixer, press the button, and the screen goes blank. You have to power down, and resume printing as if a power failure. And the filament run out sensors don’t work.
Hi Have this printer and its main use is generating waste plastic. Problem has always been over extrusion, Bobbles by the bucket load, with things enough to make a rope. Have changed the two extruders for metal ones, changed the heated tip to 0.3mm Altered the flow an ended up with lease possible in cura of 55%. Altered to retraction, changed the Start code. Changed the layer height. If anyone has suggestion (constructive as my own negative ones would fill an book). been thinking and converting it to an ender 3 single nozzle. or dump it, have seen the humour in the adage plug and play, but its wearing thin.
My A10 printer lasted about 3 hours, and did not even finish the print of the dog. The filament feeder motor FAILED to feed the filament to the extruder . otherwise it looks to be a good beginner printer
I am having the same issue. Did you correct this? I tried a print last night and the filament just stopped coming out. The motor was spinning but no filament was coming out of the hot end. I am trying to print with Kiri-moto
I got one of these just today; the bed is slightly skewed to one side not bumpy and it was possible to level it with the springs. It took me about an hour to set up and my first print went fine. Only issue is that the bed is a bit skewed but this would only really matter if you did a print that used all of the bed area.
I am new on 3d printing and believe me if i say its going to makes me crazy, using geeetech a20m most of the time i don't have good print but keep trying to be better.
I purchased an A20M geeetech printer about 4 weeks ago, and still have not been able to use it , I cannot get the wifi setup to work, cannot find printer hotspot ,I even ordered another wifi module, still not working, and no help from geeetech, IF I would have known, it was wifi only, I would not have bought it, I think that is the stupidest idea any one ever came up with, no manual use.
Thanks for this comment. I didn't know that the A20M is only working via WiFi Setup. Good to know. Sorry to hear to have so much issues with it. In my opinion it is a pretty bad solution to provide only the possibility to use it with wifi...... Hopefully you will get it work soon.
Difficult to say. I got some feedback that the quality of Geeetech is still pretty poor. Every Ender user I know is satisfied. Only for printing both are same (geeetech with quality issues but can be on ender as well). Geeetech is using better electronics for upgrading and modifying afterwards.
I have both. I purchased both last week and these are my first 3d printers, so i am brand new to this. The ender 3 I just purchased from Amazon and the extruder motor failed to even turn on. I troubleshooted it and it seems that the motherboard is faulty. The a10 I tried printing with last night and filament stopped coming out mid print. Motor was spinning, maybe the filament jammed at the hot end??? I am too new to this and looking for any and all the help I can get
Das sind Kleinigkeiten und wie man das aus China kennt schwankt die Qualität mal mehr mal weniger, bei 1000 anderen Leuten druckt der out of the box super ohne Mängel. Bei einem 160 Euro Drucker sollte immer klar sein dass da Hand angelegt werden muss, das sollte keinen "crazy" machen, da lernt man gleich was. Ich hab u.a. einen 3 Jahre alten Anet A8, da kämpfte man nicht nur Fetigungstoleranzen, sondern auch mit designbedingten Grenzen die man lösen wollte und konnte. Aber danke für die Tipps, ich prüf das bei ankommen meines A10 auch gleich mal obwohl der aktuelle A10 anders aussieht.
Ja du hast vollkommen recht die Qualitätsschwankungen sind ziemlich groß. Soll auch keinen verrückt machen. Der Preis ist super und da muss man auch ein paar Abstriche hinnehmen. Wobei Dinge wie Dellen in der Führung schon sehr extrem sind und man diese nicht einfach beheben kann. Nach abstellen der Probleme ist der A10 ein echt toller Drucker.
@@technikstudio7504 dass ist aus meiner Erfahrung (beruflich) das was in China Geld kostet -> QUALITÄTSKONTROLLE. Mit etwas mehr Kontrolle würden die Drucker weniger Schwankungen haben, aber bei dem Preis kann man auch mal hinlangen und sich mit der materie auseinandersetzen, da finde ich für Anfänger solche Videos super!
A little bit of googling seems to show that being a common problem. the board only has 1 pwm fan pinout & sometimes the chip goes bad. ua-cam.com/video/me5oj-PnMFE/v-deo.html
If I understand the schematics of the GT2560 Rev B right, then it looks like that the fans gets 12V from the board even if the board is powered by 24V. There is a 12V regulator on the board. A 24V fan would get highly under voltage and will just stop on a lower PWM signal.
+technikstudio So sorry, I am just stupid. I found something interesting in the schematics. There must be a jumper on the board that is named "JP2" in the schematics. That jumper bypasses the voltage regulator. So with this jumper set, the fans would get 24V. So first check that both fans at the hot end AND the cooling fan of the board are all 24V fans. If yes, then set this jumper on the board. Please post a picture of the jumper.
Sorry to hear my friend. Quality control is not a big topic of low cost printers.... So it looks like nothing changed.... Hope you will fix your issues soon to get it work.
Sadly it's my first printer and basically the only one I could afford as a student. It seems to struggle with anything bigger than a benchie, for me. Otherwise, lots of extreme layer shifting I can't seem to fix, some skipping on the extruder feeding motor (loud clicking every so often). The good part is that I have gotten it to print the 20x20x20mm hollow cube absolutely perfectly. Sadly, it doesn't translate to all prints.
@@o0julek0o Have no fear, it's not that difficult once you learn the "basics" of 3D printing. Watch these videos which helped me greatly on my A20M until you're comfortable with making the changes in the video. The videos will show how to setup a Cartesian style 3D printer. Then find some youtube videos on how to adjust your Vref. Voltage reference on the driver boards connected to the controller. Actually, I would verify the Vref first. Since the Vref can have an effect on the calibration. The clicking is the extruder slipping on the filament or the Vref is incorrect for that motor and is stalling or worse overheating. The stepper motors on the A20M can handle up to 90 C, so they are probably not overheating on your machine. See if you have filament shavings on and around the extruder gear and filament inside the extruder. If so find the adjustment screw or Allen head screw, mine is on the left side to the upper rear of the extruder, and screw it in a quarter turn at a time to coarse adjust, then fine adjust with smaller turns. This tightens the gear against the filament. Watch out though if you get it too tight you will have a hard time with the filament release lever ( the thing you push to put in and pull out filament from the extruder) it can get really tight. Can be tightened to the point that lever will not move nor release the filament from the extruder. Mine unscrews 5 or 6 times, then clockwise turns to tighten. Just be slow and patient as this hobby will either make you mad as a hatter or you find blissful patience and an unquenchable thirst for knowledge. Best of Luck. mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/?fbclid=IwAR01U1IKHr9yIdxjubLTInDkSIYBeFQR0P85z6bvY208juzfx_oEsPwB5DU www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766?fbclid=IwAR07AqQROJdy6OpjEEZ4B9c2fEf7MCKGZUqSGcHXj1qJzfhs_i41Vb-l3o4 3daddict.com/pid-tune-3d-printer/?fbclid=IwAR1KI9vsPljgEXa2GonmVvL6egAwh7-_0FL7lun_mPZCz9qF3_pNV9e-erY all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-leveling-step-by-step-tutorial/?fbclid=IwAR1PiX9Op-Yg6csNf0Vk_Dsq4ir20kkWcH6o4HAYU1mH9CEakvLkDG3nMSM www.instructables.com/id/Calibrating-your-3D-printer-using-minimal-filament/?fbclid=IwAR3KAx8Ii5PaC2XDtZP3gC8IvNxzieQSdTM6ZkGkcNapy8vxAZJqK2KM8i0 pinshape.com/blog/6-simple-steps-to-3d-printer-bed-leveling/?fbclid=IwAR02HWOtaGaCVOhMel6Zblddleh-vGvG1dOKl1aA4H0W4i1L31z6d_Kki2k
Thanks for feedback Mike. Yes it seems a common issue for the A10 part cooling fan. The solution at the moment is to set at 255 to run. We will upgrade it in the next batches.
+jonjon f thanks for your video. Unfortunately it not work on mine printer. All fans run well after doing that execpt the part cooling fan it still not work properly. 🤔😥
OK so you are the unlucky guy 😔 I got feedback from other guys who received the printers in better conditions. OK a little tinkering and you will get it work 😉
That is a pretty bad thing. Because if you have bumps in the extrusions there is no easy way to fix this issue. I was lucky because the other side was OK. You can only play with tightening and loosen the V Slot wheels.... To get it run better....
Hi, I've got my A10 with almost the same issuses like yours (except Y-axis bended profile). Regarding cooling fan PWM problem take a look to this video: ua-cam.com/video/MlQdz1E5HgU/v-deo.html It looks Geeetech provide 24V fan on 12V PWM channel (for low noise mode), therefore it cannot work on PWM set to 50% .
Medelis 3D at what price do you value your time? This is quite terrible quality control. It makes me think twice before buying this model even though it's nearly $100 cheaper than an ender in my country.
@@nunyabizness9885 this printer frame come from the same (only one) factory, Ender, Geeetech, Tronxy use same frame (creality dont make printer frames)
your english is better than some native speakers here the US.. plus having a German accent works well with talking about mechanical things.
Thanks a lot it makes me happy to see that my english video is not so bad like I thought in the beginning. Due to all the nice comments I am thinking to switch to english. I will do an survey in my next video to check what the viewers think and will decide after how to go on. Would be nice if you attend the survey as well in my next video.
I literally loled on the last part :D
You prolly dont give a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all the new movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my gf for the last few months =)
@Korbin Elliot yup, I have been using instaflixxer for years myself :D
@@technikstudio7504 oh man, I hope you do. I really like your presenting style (no nonsense, straight to the point!) but I only know how to ask for a cheese sandwich in German!
Fortunately I didn't have most of these issues, I bought it this year (2020), it was a V4
Nice to hear. Hopefully this bad quality is solved.
Agree with the previous comment its not my printer but my next door neighbour is printing after the frame assembly, Its doing its thing... few ghosting issues but really good quality prints otherwise. Maybe do an update review
You speak better English than most people I know 😂 Awesome review. Do more in English so I can watch them!
Thanks a lot. In the last month I had not much time to do new videos. I hope this will change soon. So in the future will come more videos, in english as well.
I just bought one. They seemed to have listened to your video lol. No issues for me. Just the rubber leg wasnt level. All in all a good printer~
Your English is fine. Very informative video, thanks.
Thanks alot.
As said, your English is great, better than most English people I know !
Thanks for this comment. Comments like this motivate me to go on in english.
Thank you for your video. It will be very helpful for new guys like me.
you did a good job with the English. Thanks for the review and explanation of problems. I am looking forward to getting one of these printer. The A10M, 2 color printer.
Thanks a lot. Yes the most printers from people I got feedback were delivered in much better condition. Let me know about the condition of yours as soon as you received it.
👍👌
Hello, thanks for your video and feedback. I will forward your feedback to the relevant colleagues. We will have better quality control for the printers and avoid these issues happen again. As for the cooling fan issue, please check if there is a little SMD resistor missing in the fan. Thanks!
I will check if an smd resistor is missing, today in the afternoon and let you know. Thanks for information
Geeetech i was about to get one of these printers, however these issues seem to be in a few other videos.
This would be my first printer and thanks to this video and your response, I will wait for these issues to be solved.
How long should I wait or these problems won’t be solved in the near future?
Pricewise and quality printing looks amazing.
Hello Javier, thanks for your interest. These issues are because of poor quality control and caused during delivery. But it is not a common phenomena. Most people give good comment on A10. We have double emphasized with the factory to make full quality control/check before shipping.
thanks for your response! keep up with the hard work!
Yesterday I returned my A10 because of many quality issues even I could fix most of them. At end I gave up because of smoke that came from the electronics. There is now a new one on the way to me, but I get nervous when I see there are many more quality problems I could face.
Very informative..... no problems with your English..... i will subscribe, unfortunately i dont speak German so i hope you do more in English
You seemed to get all the problem in one printer. I ordered my A10 after watching your review (and others for several brands) knowing full well that QC on products coming from China is often worse than the old adage of never purchasing a car made in the USA and assembled on a Monday after a holiday. I've had mine for 3-4 months and haven't had the problems you encountered. Mine came with the filament sensor and a removable glass bed (clips holds in place), it seems specifications on things coming out of China change without notice, and about the only issue I had when assembled was that the Y axis belt runs against the one side of the front bearing and not in the center. I've tried to adjust it, but it still tracks off to one side. However, I'm now having a problem with the part cooling fan bearing acting up and will need to replace the fan one of these days with a better one. Adding a drop or two of oil is on the agenda for now. I've upgraded mine with TMC2208 drivers on the X,Y,Z and added a duct cover for the main board fan and now the machine's noise level has dropped quite a bit and it no longer "sings" to me when in motion. Next I want to pull the no-name brand power supply off, open it up, and see if I can add a thermal switch to cycle its fan and reduce the overall noise even more. I saw a video that shows how to do this mod. Overall, I'm happy with the printer and with the 32 bit 24 volt board and the ability to add plug-in BL bed leveling think it was a better choice for me than the Ender-3 that was also in the running at the time. Buying any printer for under $200 US should come with a warning to be prepared to spend a few dollars finishing it and not to assume that it will not need TLC.
Had the same issue with the bed stopping on bumps when sliding with my hand. I didn't make any adjustments and noticed that it doesn't seem to happen when the motor moves the bed, only when I move by hand, it is really noticable, as if the wheels have a chunk missing out of them as they go round. Test prints so far reveal that it doesn't seem to affect anything so I've left alone. My levelling issue wasn't as bad as yours though. About 0.1mm difference on mine.
Ok pretty interesting that this issue is not noticeable on your printer when the motor is moving the bed. I did not check it I adjusted it before I did the first print. After fixing all these issues it is a great printer in my oppinion.
@@technikstudio7504
Not sure what difference it makes but I have the A10M version (I think it's the same just with a Y extruder). I checked during assembly that the bed level wasn't affected with this bumping, and it seemed to be okay. I haven't printed anything big yet, just the lizard on the card and some other little bits which came out fine. Your video is very helpful though, as I could not pin down why it was sticking. It seems to be the wheels have a flat spot, as it does it on each full revolution, but visually they are all round. I may have to revisit this another day after I've ironed out more pressing problems.
It certainly has potential to be a great printer, just wish they would share Gcode settings to get the most from it, as the test prints come out great, but my Cura settings come out stringy and hugely under extruded. Not sure if this is where I used old filament though which clogged the nozzle slightly, will need to check again as after printing a few things I noticed that some of that old colour suddenly appear on my first layer, several prints later. This was filament that I had to put in the oven as it had gone hard.
@@technikstudio7504 Okay I've found this issue with the bumping. Turns out that the soft V slot wheels over time develop a flat spot when left alone, due to the tightness against the frame. It goes away after running the printer for a while. Not sure what the trick is here to solve this. My X-Axis was fine but a bit loose, causing levelling issues, so I tightened the wheels but now they have the same problem. At the moment I'm trying to find a happy middle ground but would love to know if anyone has solved this issue. Maybe harder wheels are the answer?
I had no issues with X axis. On Y I turned the aluminium extrusion 180 deg. But I think this is no solution for you because as I know the extrusion on the new A10 is assembled in other direction. I think as long the extrusions have bumps there is only the possibility to change the extrusion?!
@@technikstudio7504 So has your issue gone away now? I believe the wheels on mine (maybe they are different to yours) are too soft and pliable, which makes them flatten out very slightly over time when left in one place. After you then move it, you have the square wheel effect. I know this is the cause as I mentioned my X Axis now does it after tightening the wheels against the frame.
Hi there I have watched a few of your videos on the A10 now and noticed your videos are 2 years old now. Can Geeetech confirm that the issues have been resolved by now as I’m more pushed towards the ender 3 for a starter printer than the geeetech at this stage many thanks keep up the great work. Andreas
I'm getting good print out of mine!
About the cooler fan that only work to 100% is related to the cooler , i buy two diferent cooler and only one work if you change the speed
Could you send a link to this fan?
Please, could you tell me what wheels did you buy to solve de wobbling problem in the Y axis? Thanks
I bought this wheels .
Aibecy 10pcs Plastik Großes Modell Passive runde Rad-Rolle mit Lager-Zahnrad-Rad für CNC i3 3D Drucker www.amazon.de/dp/B075MD8GCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8XZuCbKS2B8RY
@@technikstudio7504 thank you and congratulations for your videos, they're very useful for me
Thanks a lot
Seen alot of bad reviews for these printers, I'd reccomend getting a ender3 insead
Sehr informatives Video, vor allem wegen der "kleinen" Fehler die an einem nagelneuen Drucker auftauchen. Habe mir bei "Aliexpress" einen für 175 € bestellt. Bin jetzt vorgewarnt hinsichtlich der Produktionsqualität. Werde den Aufbau mal protokollieren , ob die Fehler inzwischen behoben sind.
Apropo Englisch - ist OK - ,der deutsche Akzent ist in den USA sogar recht beliebt. Und man redet keinen Müll bei technischen Themen.
Very informative video, especially because of the "small" errors that appear on a brand new printer. I ordered one at "Aliexpress" for 175 €. I am now forewarned regarding the production quality. Will log the structure times, whether the errors are now fixed.
Apropo English - is OK - , the German accent is even quite popular in the US. And you do not talk trash about technical issues.
Danke dir für deinen Kommentar. Ja du wirst wahrscheinlich eine upgedatet Version erhalten. Denn Geeetech hat dem A10 ein riesiges Update spendiert. Aber bin sehr gespannt wie die Qualität bei deinem Drucker ist. Danke für deine Meinung über mein Englisch.
Thanks for your comment. I think you will receive an updated version. Geeetech did a huge update to the A10. I am very interested in the quality condition your printer will arrive. Thanks for your oppinion about my english.
Hello,
My Geeetech A10 is saying Error no filament but I fed the filament through to the end, do you have any clue why it might say this?
Great video by the way!
Hello, are you using an filament run out sensor? Is it damaged? Or did you forgot to install the filament run out sensor? On my version there was no sensor for the filament. I think if the firmware is able to show up this error massage there should be one implementet.
@@technikstudio7504 The filament sensor appears to be in good condition, I tried resetting but no result.
As a beginner this is an excellent choice.
I bought this one today ! I see more and more negative points about it ? I don’t know if I need to send it back to Gearbest and take another one ? What do you think about this one today after the issues
In my opinion this printer is great after fixing the issues. What kind of issues you are fighting with?
@@technikstudio7504 I just buy online and I'm waiting this printer ! Now I have nothing to say before I will build it!
So let's hope that he will arrive in good condition. I talked to several people who no issues with this printer.
@@technikstudio7504 Ja !! Dankeschön fur die Infos. Schön Wochenende
I really like your accent👍
Consistently bad machines?? I bought an A 10 M dual color for $300. It knocked every model (8) off the platform at 30 mm Z height. I sent it back, after trying to invert the lead screw, etc. to no avail. I traded up to the A 20 M for $400, and it failed on the first 3 attempts. It drags the. model and the cheap, plastic sheet off of the work platform at 56mm z height. I now have a dozen colorful, but headless dogs. I attribute it to using cheap, threaded rod instead of precision lead screws, but it could be the lack of hold-down on that plastic work surface. BTW: scroll down to the mixer, press the button, and the screen goes blank. You have to power down, and resume printing as if a power failure. And the filament run out sensors don’t work.
Hi Have this printer and its main use is generating waste plastic. Problem has always been over extrusion, Bobbles by the bucket load, with things enough to make a rope. Have changed the two extruders for metal ones, changed the heated tip to 0.3mm Altered the flow an ended up with lease possible in cura of 55%. Altered to retraction, changed the Start code. Changed the layer height. If anyone has suggestion (constructive as my own negative ones would fill an book). been thinking and converting it to an ender 3 single nozzle. or dump it, have seen the humour in the adage plug and play, but its wearing thin.
My A10 printer lasted about 3 hours, and did not even finish the print of the dog. The filament feeder motor FAILED to feed the filament to the extruder . otherwise it looks to be a good beginner printer
I am having the same issue. Did you correct this? I tried a print last night and the filament just stopped coming out. The motor was spinning but no filament was coming out of the hot end. I am trying to print with Kiri-moto
Have these issues been fixed in the latest batch ?
Before I go order one in the next few days ?
As I know yes it is fixed. The newest batch is using next Gen Mainboard and as I am informed it is running properly.
technikstudio so the issue with the heated bed is also moving freely and is flat
That’s been fixed ?
As I talked to other A10 owners this issue was not related to all A10 printers. But I don't know what is the situation with this topic at the moment.
I got one of these just today; the bed is slightly skewed to one side not bumpy and it was possible to level it with the springs. It took me about an hour to set up and my first print went fine. Only issue is that the bed is a bit skewed but this would only really matter if you did a print that used all of the bed area.
I am new on 3d printing and believe me if i say its going to makes me crazy, using geeetech a20m most of the time i don't have good print but keep trying to be better.
I want to learn German just to watch your full videos.
Thank you very much. I plan to do the most videos in the future in english as well.
I purchased an A20M geeetech printer about 4 weeks ago, and still have not been able to use it , I cannot get the wifi setup to work, cannot find printer hotspot ,I even ordered another wifi module, still not working, and no help from geeetech, IF I would have known, it was wifi only, I would not have bought it, I think that is the stupidest idea any one ever came up with, no manual use.
Thanks for this comment. I didn't know that the A20M is only working via WiFi Setup. Good to know. Sorry to hear to have so much issues with it. In my opinion it is a pretty bad solution to provide only the possibility to use it with wifi...... Hopefully you will get it work soon.
OctoPi with a raspberry pi if you can't get wifi working. You must have an available USB on the printer.
geetech a10 or ender 3... which one to buy??
Difficult to say. I got some feedback that the quality of Geeetech is still pretty poor. Every Ender user I know is satisfied. Only for printing both are same (geeetech with quality issues but can be on ender as well). Geeetech is using better electronics for upgrading and modifying afterwards.
I have both. I purchased both last week and these are my first 3d printers, so i am brand new to this. The ender 3 I just purchased from Amazon and the extruder motor failed to even turn on. I troubleshooted it and it seems that the motherboard is faulty. The a10 I tried printing with last night and filament stopped coming out mid print. Motor was spinning, maybe the filament jammed at the hot end??? I am too new to this and looking for any and all the help I can get
Das sind Kleinigkeiten und wie man das aus China kennt schwankt die Qualität mal mehr mal weniger, bei 1000 anderen Leuten druckt der out of the box super ohne Mängel. Bei einem 160 Euro Drucker sollte immer klar sein dass da Hand angelegt werden muss, das sollte keinen "crazy" machen, da lernt man gleich was. Ich hab u.a. einen 3 Jahre alten Anet A8, da kämpfte man nicht nur Fetigungstoleranzen, sondern auch mit designbedingten Grenzen die man lösen wollte und konnte. Aber danke für die Tipps, ich prüf das bei ankommen meines A10 auch gleich mal obwohl der aktuelle A10 anders aussieht.
Ja du hast vollkommen recht die Qualitätsschwankungen sind ziemlich groß. Soll auch keinen verrückt machen. Der Preis ist super und da muss man auch ein paar Abstriche hinnehmen. Wobei Dinge wie Dellen in der Führung schon sehr extrem sind und man diese nicht einfach beheben kann. Nach abstellen der Probleme ist der A10 ein echt toller Drucker.
@@technikstudio7504 dass ist aus meiner Erfahrung (beruflich) das was in China Geld kostet -> QUALITÄTSKONTROLLE. Mit etwas mehr Kontrolle würden die Drucker weniger Schwankungen haben, aber bei dem Preis kann man auch mal hinlangen und sich mit der materie auseinandersetzen, da finde ich für Anfänger solche Videos super!
Have you tried starting at 255 & then going down? some fans can't start without 100% power but then can be reduced in speed.
Yes I did. I started at 255 and the fan worked. Than I set 254 and it stopped.
darn. what control board are they using?
Gt2560 rev. B
A little bit of googling seems to show that being a common problem. the board only has 1 pwm fan pinout & sometimes the chip goes bad. ua-cam.com/video/me5oj-PnMFE/v-deo.html
The video you linked is GT2560 rev a and it is different to rev b but perhabs the steps are similar.... I will check
Can you please help confirm the fan you mentioned setting to 100% to run in the video is 12v or 24v?
I will check today in the afternoon and give you this infornation
If I understand the schematics of the GT2560 Rev B right, then it looks like that the fans gets 12V from the board even if the board is powered by 24V. There is a 12V regulator on the board. A 24V fan would get highly under voltage and will just stop on a lower PWM signal.
@@yaVDRgda does that mean if I replace with an 12V fan it should run correctly?
+technikstudio So sorry, I am just stupid. I found something interesting in the schematics. There must be a jumper on the board that is named "JP2" in the schematics. That jumper bypasses the voltage regulator. So with this jumper set, the fans would get 24V. So first check that both fans at the hot end AND the cooling fan of the board are all 24V fans. If yes, then set this jumper on the board. Please post a picture of the jumper.
Thanks for this information I hope I will have time tomorrow to check it.
My Geeetech A10m is the most difficult budget printer ever. Not a huge fan of it. Too many issues
Sorry to hear my friend. Quality control is not a big topic of low cost printers.... So it looks like nothing changed.... Hope you will fix your issues soon to get it work.
Sadly it's my first printer and basically the only one I could afford as a student. It seems to struggle with anything bigger than a benchie, for me. Otherwise, lots of extreme layer shifting I can't seem to fix, some skipping on the extruder feeding motor (loud clicking every so often). The good part is that I have gotten it to print the 20x20x20mm hollow cube absolutely perfectly. Sadly, it doesn't translate to all prints.
@@o0julek0o Have no fear, it's not that difficult once you learn the "basics" of 3D printing. Watch these videos which helped me greatly on my A20M until you're comfortable with making the changes in the video. The videos will show how to setup a Cartesian style 3D printer. Then find some youtube videos on how to adjust your Vref. Voltage reference on the driver boards connected to the controller. Actually, I would verify the Vref first. Since the Vref can have an effect on the calibration. The clicking is the extruder slipping on the filament or the Vref is incorrect for that motor and is stalling or worse overheating. The stepper motors on the A20M can handle up to 90 C, so they are probably not overheating on your machine. See if you have filament shavings on and around the extruder gear and filament inside the extruder. If so find the adjustment screw or Allen head screw, mine is on the left side to the upper rear of the extruder, and screw it in a quarter turn at a time to coarse adjust, then fine adjust with smaller turns. This tightens the gear against the filament. Watch out though if you get it too tight you will have a hard time with the filament release lever ( the thing you push to put in and pull out filament from the extruder) it can get really tight. Can be tightened to the point that lever will not move nor release the filament from the extruder. Mine unscrews 5 or 6 times, then clockwise turns to tighten. Just be slow and patient as this hobby will either make you mad as a hatter or you find blissful patience and an unquenchable thirst for knowledge. Best of Luck.
mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/?fbclid=IwAR01U1IKHr9yIdxjubLTInDkSIYBeFQR0P85z6bvY208juzfx_oEsPwB5DU
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766?fbclid=IwAR07AqQROJdy6OpjEEZ4B9c2fEf7MCKGZUqSGcHXj1qJzfhs_i41Vb-l3o4
3daddict.com/pid-tune-3d-printer/?fbclid=IwAR1KI9vsPljgEXa2GonmVvL6egAwh7-_0FL7lun_mPZCz9qF3_pNV9e-erY
all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-leveling-step-by-step-tutorial/?fbclid=IwAR1PiX9Op-Yg6csNf0Vk_Dsq4ir20kkWcH6o4HAYU1mH9CEakvLkDG3nMSM
www.instructables.com/id/Calibrating-your-3D-printer-using-minimal-filament/?fbclid=IwAR3KAx8Ii5PaC2XDtZP3gC8IvNxzieQSdTM6ZkGkcNapy8vxAZJqK2KM8i0
pinshape.com/blog/6-simple-steps-to-3d-printer-bed-leveling/?fbclid=IwAR02HWOtaGaCVOhMel6Zblddleh-vGvG1dOKl1aA4H0W4i1L31z6d_Kki2k
I have the same issue with the part cooling fan. Only works at 255 set in the settings
Thanks for feedback Mike. Yes it seems a common issue for the A10 part cooling fan. The solution at the moment is to set at 255 to run. We will upgrade it in the next batches.
hi a made a video. i hope this will help you. ua-cam.com/video/dgjpZNlcGdY/v-deo.html
+jonjon f thanks for your video. Unfortunately it not work on mine printer. All fans run well after doing that execpt the part cooling fan it still not work properly. 🤔😥
Hi, i have exactly the same issues! :D
Ohhh no. When did you get your printer? Is your printer the updated version?
@@technikstudio7504 I bought it a week ago, the geeetech a10m
OK so you are the unlucky guy 😔 I got feedback from other guys who received the printers in better conditions. OK a little tinkering and you will get it work 😉
@@technikstudio7504 i tried to flip the bed bar like you did but the beds doesn't go smoothly because of the bumps
That is a pretty bad thing. Because if you have bumps in the extrusions there is no easy way to fix this issue. I was lucky because the other side was OK. You can only play with tightening and loosen the V Slot wheels.... To get it run better....
Does anyone knows if geeetech solved these issues on new models? Damn, i bought it yesterday :|
My review was the older Version. I know Geeetech is shipping since shortly after my review a polished Version. I hope it is better now.
@@technikstudio7504 great job then, thank you! ;)
Hi, I've got my A10 with almost the same issuses like yours (except Y-axis bended profile). Regarding cooling fan PWM problem take a look to this video:
ua-cam.com/video/MlQdz1E5HgU/v-deo.html
It looks Geeetech provide 24V fan on 12V PWM channel (for low noise mode), therefore it cannot work on PWM set to 50% .
Thanks alot I will check it out. Yes unfortunately there are these issues after fixing, it is a great printer.
All 3d printer have this problems ;-) Amateur ?!
Not in my experience with serveral printers. But if you mean....
@@technikstudio7504 A10 for the price its o.k
Yes the price is very good. I will have an comparison after assemble the Ender 3 between this both printers.
Medelis 3D at what price do you value your time? This is quite terrible quality control. It makes me think twice before buying this model even though it's nearly $100 cheaper than an ender in my country.
@@nunyabizness9885 this printer frame come from the same (only one) factory, Ender, Geeetech, Tronxy use same frame (creality dont make printer frames)