In this video I show how I use two methods to recreate threads in Shapr3D This is the first tutorial I have ever made, so forgive me if it is a bit lengthy.
Good morning, I feel I have to thank you deeply, for the excellent technical quality, which you used, in realizing this tutorial. I've been seeing an unknown number of tutorials for making threads for 4 days now, all of them, OBVIOUSLY vague, almost useless except for a few, of which, yours is in first place. I repeat: 1) excellent subdivision into steps of the topic 2) SIMPLICITY IN EXPLAINING THE COMMANDS 3) CLARITY IN THE CREATION STEPS!!!!!! THANKS AGAIN. PS: May it be a warning to those who post just to get views: People are not stupid, I understand very well,..... most of the time they see even beyond the lines; as a result, they skim...... and throw in the trash...... the superfluous, that is 53-57% of what youtube offers.
shapr3d needs to make a better thread tool where i can just search up a bolt type with all specifications and insert it into the part. would speed things up and isnt that hard of a tool for them to implement.
I haven't watched this video yet, I will, but I'm going to try importing an existing bolt STL into my Shapr3D project, put it into a part, and use the subtract feature to create the tripod socket I want on the part. I'll probably enlarge the bolt a little first since I have to take in account of FDM shrinkage. It would be nice if Shapr3D came with a set of bolts/screws built to do this like their library of letters.
Mc Master Car has them www.mcmaster.com/ This works as well and can be done quickly, the issue is that sometimes your resulting part can no longer be edited the same way as if you built it up from scratch.
@@Larsen514 thats a great idea - i watched your video and must say i‘m impressed by your natural talent explaining in a very professional way - got i question regarding the video - tried to use the MacMaster 3D files, and used the subtract feature from Shapr3D and printed the thread, but besides shrinking issues i always got a very tight thread - do you have an idea, how to make the gap between threads of the bolt and nut fitting more loose ? i thing it should be shrunk only in one dimension - How would your achieve that ? Keep up your great work, you got one fan more :)
@@emgab As you have discovered, there is a missing feature in Shapr3D, which is to be able to scale on either 1 or 2 axis's versus all 3. The alternative that I would suggest is to do the scaling in your slicer, on the X and Y axis. But that might not be practical if you don't want the rest of your part to get distorted. An other way you can go about it is to use the other sex of the part and merge. So if you are using a bolt to subtract, try using a nut and merge it into your part.
@@Larsen514 Yeah, that’s what i already tried - to distribute the gap between the bolt and the nut i made the nut 1,5% bigger and the bolt 1,5% smaller - it works so..so.. not really perfect, but on larger thread, let’s say bigger than 10mm it’s working pretty well - having a feature like you mentioned with one.dimensional scaling would be perfect.
@@Larsen514 Dear Peter, based on your suggestion, i thought about how to improve the thread play without having a single dimension scale function - here is what i did - i took a solid block 20x20x20mm where a 16mm thread should be applied - then i moved a 16mm-threaded rod into it - then i used the subtract function to cut out the thread in the block - while using the section view Z-X plane, i moved the rod by 0,1 mm up did another subtract - then 0,1mm down and subtracted again - the result was a perfect thread in the block with 16mm and 0,2mm play - worked like a charm - well, i assume at least with larger threads, cheers Mike
I used a standard bolt as an example but not all threads are obvious and many people don't have the tools to identify them. Some threads don't even exist as standards. A good example comes from one of the reasons I thought of doing this in the first place and that was when I wanted to 3D print a replacement cap for a tube of glue I had.
@@Larsen514 There are plenty of custom and off kilter threads out there (especially on molded parts). Most recently I came across one that was totally nonstandard in every dimension on a commercial paint sprayer. This video was great! Amazing what you can do with a darn iPad these days.
@@Larsen514Thank you very much for this video. It was very helpful. I have looked for 2 days for a formula or something similar. Wish you all the best!
Thank you so much Larsen!I'm trying the second method with the image, but i'm not so sure that is trusty, as my "bolt" is a custom and big one, i've some doubt that the image is straight enough (possible parallax issue?!) to use it as reference for create the thread...any suggestion?
Sure thing! The key to using the image method is ensuring you first have a good measurement. Measuring the distance between threads is the most crucial in my opinion and it can help to span across as many threads as possible and then divide by the amount of threads. As for the imaging, the further away from the object you are, the less parallax there will be. So if you have a phone with a zoom lens, that is best. Also if you can mount the camera and place the object at the exact same height as the lens, that will help too. The iphone has a “level” feature built into the camera when shooting straight down which can help. For downwards shooting, you can put the bolt on a block of wood with the hex head leaning off the edge so that the thread lay parallel to the block. After taking the image, edit the image to reframe/rotate until you make the sides of the bold line up perfectly with the edge of the frame (leave just a little bit of gap before saving). You can also use key-stoning to correct any vertical parallax. Horizontal parallax with the threads shouldn’t be much of an issue since the bold is round and your perspective stays the same regardless. Let me know if you need anymore tips. I’m happy to help.
You could do that. If you are using the method with the image. Calculator the length between the opposite ends of the thread tips, duplicate the object and move up by that length. Or if you are using the method of making the thread from scratche using the measurements, you can adjust the calculations to account for a longer thread.
Is there a widget or tool to apply a thread to a surface and get rid of all this drawn out process of building a thread? It reminds me of finding roots the long way vs using the Quadratic formula. It is nice to know how you did this, but there must be a quicker way to get the job done. Thank you for this video and your time.
Perhaps in other CAD softwares like solidworks but not in shapr. They only just introduced the tool to help create patterns but even that tool is limiting. For now, the only real solution I see is this or import existing STEP files.
How do you refill a hole that you subtracted through a body? I can do it using the “edit undo”, but what if I’m 10-20 steps ahead & decide to fill a hole 🕳️ I cut 10-20 steps ago?
Im sure there is a better way but the way I do it quick and simple is by creating a 45 degree concave cone and using it to subtract it from the top of the bolt.
I chamfer it by creating a concave cone and placing it on top of the tip of the thread and then I do a subtraction. Also, I make the concave cone transparent to be able to see how much of a chamfer I want.
I used a standard bolt as an example but not all threads are obvious and many people don't have the tools to identify them. Some threads don't even exist as standards. A good example comes from one of the reasons I thought of doing this in the first place and that was when I wanted to 3D print a replacement cap for a tube of glue I had.
No matter what I do, my little triangle won’t repeat around the circumference more than once. Says it’s not attached, but I know it is. Frustrating…. Great instructions though, just can’t figure out how to appear the Shapr3d machine gods so it just DOES what it says it’s supposed to…..
If I’m measuring the dimensions of an existing bolt, then the “tolerances” are already inherent in the bolts dimensions. But if you are trying to recreate a thread so you may then 3D print it with a FDM printer, then yes, you may want to add in some extra tolerance allowance. If you were to print with a resin printer, then no, resin printing is precise enough to accommodate the original bolt’s tolerances (typically).
Not all threads exist in libraries. My first use case was to make a new cap for a bottle of glue I lost the cap to. This method allowed me to recreate that unconventional thread and 3D print a new cap for the bottle.
Why are you measuring a 1/4-20 bolt in millimeters? Get yourself a standard thread table (quick google search) and you will have all the bolt dimensions you could ever want. IMO you are only going to introduce errors into your design by converting inch to metric or metric to inch.
Using metric to measure and draw in CAD for 3D printing is far more intuitive. Everything else I do is in metric, I'm not going to switch to imperial just for one little bolt. Maybe if you are milling, what you're saying might correct but for simple hobby jobs and 3D printing, metric is the way to go. I used a 1/4-20 bolt only because I use them for my photography gear (tripod mounts and such). Otherwise, metric is mainly what the rest of the world uses.
![Design Threads and Inserts for 3D Printing with [ Shapr3D ]](/img/n.gif)
Very good. Explained in a professional and calm way.
Both techniques explained clearly and exactly what I was looking for.
Well done, I like the direct and pragmatic approach.
God bless you man, finally a clear and simple explanation 🙏
These two is the best eyballing techniques I have seen so far
Best video I have watched for creating threaded body! Thanks very much!
Sir, thank you for such a thorough explanation of this process!!!
Best 2 methods i found so far
Thanks man!
I think the first method is more effective but the second one is very impressive 👍🏼 thanks a lot!!!
Well explained, Peter. Just started with Shapr3d so looking at various tutors/examples
Nice work Peter and thanks for sharing👍
Well done. Exploring SHAPR 3d for my 3d printing designs.
Good morning, I feel I have to thank you deeply, for the excellent technical quality, which you used, in realizing this tutorial.
I've been seeing an unknown number of tutorials for making threads for 4 days now, all of them, OBVIOUSLY vague, almost useless except for a few, of which, yours is in first place.
I repeat:
1) excellent subdivision into steps of the topic
2) SIMPLICITY IN EXPLAINING THE COMMANDS
3) CLARITY IN THE CREATION STEPS!!!!!!
THANKS AGAIN.
PS:
May it be a warning to those who post just to get views:
People are not stupid, I understand very well,..... most of the time they see even beyond the lines; as a result, they skim...... and throw in the trash...... the superfluous, that is 53-57% of what youtube offers.
Thank you for your comment! Im glad it could help. 🤙
Love it so much very easy to understand 😊
...from Panama. Thanks a lot Peter.
Thank you so much, I learned a lot!
Gracias , excelentes métodos para diseñar una rosca
shapr3d needs to make a better thread tool where i can just search up a bolt type with all specifications and insert it into the part. would speed things up and isnt that hard of a tool for them to implement.
Because I'm French, is sometime very difficulté to understand English...... But I understood every thing you explaine slowly.....Thank you so much.
Very good!
Good work
thank you for sharing.
I haven't watched this video yet, I will, but I'm going to try importing an existing bolt STL into my Shapr3D project, put it into a part, and use the subtract feature to create the tripod socket I want on the part. I'll probably enlarge the bolt a little first since I have to take in account of FDM shrinkage. It would be nice if Shapr3D came with a set of bolts/screws built to do this like their library of letters.
Mc Master Car has them
www.mcmaster.com/
This works as well and can be done quickly, the issue is that sometimes your resulting part can no longer be edited the same way as if you built it up from scratch.
@@Larsen514 thats a great idea - i watched your video and must say i‘m impressed by your natural talent explaining in a very professional way - got i question regarding the video - tried to use the MacMaster 3D files, and used the subtract feature from Shapr3D and printed the thread, but besides shrinking issues i always got a very tight thread - do you have an idea, how to make the gap between threads of the bolt and nut fitting more loose ? i thing it should be shrunk only in one dimension - How would your achieve that ? Keep up your great work, you got one fan more :)
@@emgab
As you have discovered, there is a missing feature in Shapr3D, which is to be able to scale on either 1 or 2 axis's versus all 3. The alternative that I would suggest is to do the scaling in your slicer, on the X and Y axis. But that might not be practical if you don't want the rest of your part to get distorted.
An other way you can go about it is to use the other sex of the part and merge. So if you are using a bolt to subtract, try using a nut and merge it into your part.
@@Larsen514 Yeah, that’s what i already tried - to distribute the gap between the bolt and the nut i made the nut 1,5% bigger and the bolt 1,5% smaller - it works so..so.. not really perfect, but on larger thread, let’s say bigger than 10mm it’s working pretty well - having a feature like you mentioned with one.dimensional scaling would be perfect.
@@Larsen514 Dear Peter, based on your suggestion, i thought about how to improve the thread play without having a single dimension scale function - here is what i did - i took a solid block 20x20x20mm where a 16mm thread should be applied - then i moved a 16mm-threaded rod into it - then i used the subtract function to cut out the thread in the block - while using the section view Z-X plane, i moved the rod by 0,1 mm up did another subtract - then 0,1mm down and subtracted again - the result was a perfect thread in the block with 16mm and 0,2mm play - worked like a charm - well, i assume at least with larger threads, cheers Mike
Great effort and confidence to your experiment nice do you metal 3d print this nut and bolt?
No, I mostly just do regular fdm 3D printing on a Prusa and a bit of resin printing.
Thank You Sir !
Thanks bro!
Genius
Just wow how fast it workes shap3d and this rocks gonna make a coke bottle 3d printed vase
You can find all the information of the bolt online
I used a standard bolt as an example but not all threads are obvious and many people don't have the tools to identify them. Some threads don't even exist as standards. A good example comes from one of the reasons I thought of doing this in the first place and that was when I wanted to 3D print a replacement cap for a tube of glue I had.
@@Larsen514 There are plenty of custom and off kilter threads out there (especially on molded parts). Most recently I came across one that was totally nonstandard in every dimension on a commercial paint sprayer. This video was great! Amazing what you can do with a darn iPad these days.
@@Larsen514Thank you very much for this video. It was very helpful. I have looked for 2 days for a formula or something similar.
Wish you all the best!
thanks! 👏 👏 👏
Thank you so much Larsen!I'm trying the second method with the image, but i'm not so sure that is trusty, as my "bolt" is a custom and big one, i've some doubt that the image is straight enough (possible parallax issue?!) to use it as reference for create the thread...any suggestion?
Sure thing!
The key to using the image method is ensuring you first have a good measurement. Measuring the distance between threads is the most crucial in my opinion and it can help to span across as many threads as possible and then divide by the amount of threads.
As for the imaging, the further away from the object you are, the less parallax there will be. So if you have a phone with a zoom lens, that is best. Also if you can mount the camera and place the object at the exact same height as the lens, that will help too.
The iphone has a “level” feature built into the camera when shooting straight down which can help. For downwards shooting, you can put the bolt on a block of wood with the hex head leaning off the edge so that the thread lay parallel to the block.
After taking the image, edit the image to reframe/rotate until you make the sides of the bold line up perfectly with the edge of the frame (leave just a little bit of gap before saving). You can also use key-stoning to correct any vertical parallax. Horizontal parallax with the threads shouldn’t be much of an issue since the bold is round and your perspective stays the same regardless.
Let me know if you need anymore tips. I’m happy to help.
You could use a pitch tool to determine the bolts thread pitch. Much easier and more precise. 😉
Definitely
But not everyone has that tool.
very cool. how do you make longer threads that the original? do you just duplicate and stack them up?
You could do that. If you are using the method with the image. Calculator the length between the opposite ends of the thread tips, duplicate the object and move up by that length.
Or if you are using the method of making the thread from scratche using the measurements, you can adjust the calculations to account for a longer thread.
@@Larsen514 cool thanks
Is there a widget or tool to apply a thread to a surface and get rid of all this drawn out process of building a thread? It reminds me of finding roots the long way vs using the Quadratic formula. It is nice to know how you did this, but there must be a quicker way to get the job done. Thank you for this video and your time.
Perhaps in other CAD softwares like solidworks but not in shapr. They only just introduced the tool to help create patterns but even that tool is limiting. For now, the only real solution I see is this or import existing STEP files.
good job form taiwan fans
How do you refill a hole that you subtracted through a body? I can do it using the “edit undo”, but what if I’m 10-20 steps ahead & decide to fill a hole 🕳️ I cut 10-20 steps ago?
Wish shaper would update threading to be easier like fusion. Input globally known bolt size and tadum! Threaded body.
How do you taper the end of the thread into the shaft at the end of the bolt?
Im sure there is a better way but the way I do it quick and simple is by creating a 45 degree concave cone and using it to subtract it from the top of the bolt.
plese do more video
Very helpful :) thanks.
i'm shapr3D user too. Can u write wha app is used to record screen with touches and pencil tap?
You just need to enable it in the iPad settings [general settings] > [shapr3D setting]
what do you do with the start of the threads?
I chamfer it by creating a concave cone and placing it on top of the tip of the thread and then I do a subtraction. Also, I make the concave cone transparent to be able to see how much of a chamfer I want.
Sharp 3D is it free
And does it work without iPad pencil
Free for 1 design then You can pay monthly or yearly or free for a year if you are a student.
You need an Apple Pencil with this software
why didn’t you just look the data up in some tables to get it as standard?
I used a standard bolt as an example but not all threads are obvious and many people don't have the tools to identify them. Some threads don't even exist as standards. A good example comes from one of the reasons I thought of doing this in the first place and that was when I wanted to 3D print a replacement cap for a tube of glue I had.
Why wouldn’t you just take the thread dimensions from the machinery’s handbook?
Man I’m still a bit hurt by the $40/mo price because I love the app but you get what you pay for.
No matter what I do, my little triangle won’t repeat around the circumference more than once. Says it’s not attached, but I know it is. Frustrating…. Great instructions though, just can’t figure out how to appear the Shapr3d machine gods so it just DOES what it says it’s supposed to…..
Just make sure to repeat the steps I did in sequence, don't skip any.
@@Larsen514 I did… Lol what fixed it was doing 2599 degrees instead of 3600 (360x10). 🙄 appeased the Shapr Gods 🤲
@@madnessintomagic
Ah yes, I mentioned a similar error in my video. at 12:10
@@Larsen514 Yep! That’s what gave me the idea and thankfully it worked!
aren’t tolerance’s considered?
If I’m measuring the dimensions of an existing bolt, then the “tolerances” are already inherent in the bolts dimensions.
But if you are trying to recreate a thread so you may then 3D print it with a FDM printer, then yes, you may want to add in some extra tolerance allowance. If you were to print with a resin printer, then no, resin printing is precise enough to accommodate the original bolt’s tolerances (typically).
I can't draw on the. Cylinder
Am I the only person more interested in importing fastener libraries than spending hours designing screws.
Not all threads exist in libraries. My first use case was to make a new cap for a bottle of glue I lost the cap to. This method allowed me to recreate that unconventional thread and 3D print a new cap for the bottle.
wtf! DO IT MOREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
You mean more videos like this?
NICE BUT you should have to learn how to standard bolt drawing
Can you link a good resource you know
If you know a better tutorial, I’d be down to watch/read it.
Why are you measuring a 1/4-20 bolt in millimeters?
Get yourself a standard thread table (quick google search) and you will have all the bolt dimensions you could ever want. IMO you are only going to introduce errors into your design by converting inch to metric or metric to inch.
totally agree
Using metric to measure and draw in CAD for 3D printing is far more intuitive. Everything else I do is in metric, I'm not going to switch to imperial just for one little bolt. Maybe if you are milling, what you're saying might correct but for simple hobby jobs and 3D printing, metric is the way to go. I used a 1/4-20 bolt only because I use them for my photography gear (tripod mounts and such). Otherwise, metric is mainly what the rest of the world uses.