I can't thank you enough for making this video. I bought a dash cluster out of a junkyard car. I removed the good working bulbs from the junkyard car and soldiered them into my cars dash. I marked and saved all parameter dials too. Total cost came to $20, ( $20 for junkyard dash) I hate to think what a dealership would have charged to replace 4 bulbs?
This video is THE go to video to help those with instrument cluster problems in their GM vehicle. I was hesitant to "break off" the old bulbs from their connection. It worked okay for the two that I replaced. It may be better to touch the connection with the soldering iron and melt the solder and lift off the bulb. I really appreciate the use of the 9-volt battery to test for bad bulbs. NOTE: The 9-volt battery will also show what part of the circuit is positive and negative. If the owner is converting to Light Emitting Diode (LED) the it is imperative to determine polarity. Installing the diode with incorrect polarity DOES NOT damage the diode but the bulb will not light. Also note that LEDs will need a resistor of proper value to load the circuit. Incandescent bulbs like the ones replaced in the video have no polarity and require no loading. Thanks for a very good video.
leedek66 the 9-volt battery won't reveal correct polarity because you can light those incandescent bulbs from either position. Also, the LED resistor is not to "load the circuit", but to limit the current/voltage to a specified value. i.e. 3.3v @ 20mA. And finally, the plastic blue base tungsten/incandescent bulbs can be safely pulled from the solder pads. The pads on the front of the board are fairly robust, and the factory solder is thin enough to prevent damage. HTH
Tomato.. tomAto... "limit the current/voltage to a specified value." ... to me means load the circuit. Geesh... do you analyze every comment to a post and explain your thoughts? I worked with a couple of guys like you. It was difficult , but I did it. LOL Have a great summer.
This is really going to help me change out those bulbs in my H2 Hummer,,, The only thing I wished you'd mentioned is what type of bulbs to use and where to get them... Thank ever so much for this video....can't wait to change my burnt bulbs...
Very Helpful, trying to find where to buy standard not LED "upgrade" most parts pages pull up the lamp with twist in socket. I have same set up you demo here, can you give me hint where I can get the correct lamps?
I can see my response is a little late, but for any latecomers, here's the answer. The bulbs depicted in this video: Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb. You can search on eBay or Amazon: "Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight" (NON LED)
I have a 2009 Ford Escape. At least two LED bulbs are out in the instrument cluster. What bulbs do I need? Are most LED instrument cluster bulbs standard from vehicle to vehicle?
I just installed new Red LEDs in my cluster instrument panel 2005 Chevy Aveo LS sedan with no soldering done. I just replaced the old condom bulbs which were green to start with. It's a fairly easy project I completed in about an hour or so.
No, not for tungsten/incandescent (NON LED) bulbs. Only with LED bulbs do you have to be concerned about polarity. The bulbs depicted in this video: Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb. You can search on eBay or Amazon: "Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
The lights that are connected to each other in the cluster (back lights) you test all at the same time.. However other bulbs like turn signal etc individually
No, not for tungsten/incandescent (NON LED) bulbs. Only with LED bulbs do you have to be concerned about polarity. The bulbs depicted in this video: Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb. You can search on eBay or Amazon: "Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
Yes, It will get the perfect height. If you don't use it the led might hit the plastic and it also keep the led from shorting if you hit a lot of bumps.
Actually, most of the"pros" that I've seen replace backlight bulbs never reuse the plastic base. They bend & trim the leads as low as possible to get the widest angle of light radiation, in order to prevent light "hot-spots".
3:30 Yikes! Those are soldered in. They should be unsoldered, not ripped off the board. You will risk pulling a pad this way, and I suspect the trace for this is internal, so if the pad is pulled, good luck getting a contact again. Also, there are much better LED bulbs with three chips that really light up the cluster well, better than a single LED. I use those when I do this and toss the plastic housing.
im about to tear into this tonight, so youre telling me you do NOT reuse the blue block when putting the new leds in? Im literally about to get at it right now.
Followed all steps tested good then once plugged in only the blinkers work. How do you test it to see if they are in the right way if they all come on when I originally tested then?
Does anyone know where to get the little bulb socket the bulb is going in, the little blue piece? Mine are melted and half the size. Any help would be appreciated. Great video BTW!
I just thought of this but didn’t want to damage my board by doing it. So thank you for the reassurance. Everyone wants to charge you to tell you the boards polarity. Getting ready to solder my new leds and stepper motors now
QUESTION: I replaced all my bulbs with led bulbs that i had to solder to my cluster .. When I reconnected only one signal light was working.. I tested all my led bulbs prior with my multi meter and they all worked... .. None of my other lights are showing nor are the needles moving .... ALL of my gauges worked and my cluster was lite prior to my modification ....
LED bulbs need to be inserted with the correct polarity - with the original bulbs either lead could be soldered to either terminal because polarity isn't an issue. Try switching one of your non-working LED bulbs around (rotate 180 degrees) and see if that works. If so, then correct the rest.
There is no OEM P/N for these bulbs. You have to buy them from aftermarket suppliers. The bulbs depicted in this video: Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb. You can search on eBay or Amazon: "Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
Hi Bri thank you for your helpful video. Did all the steps in replacing stepper motor but my gas gage and water gage isnt moving. Can u help me and tell me what I did wrong? Ive been searching for a video to help me fix what I did wrong. Thank you
Should be the same for the most part. You might have Led's that are soldered in a hole and come out the back side of the board. Will need a solder sucker or solder wick to help remove the solder. He should have used it in the video because you can damage the pads on the board.
I followed these steps and did a super clean job, all the LEDs work perfectly with the 9 volt battery tester I made. I put it in my truck and only the blinker lights want to work. Any ideas as to what’s going on?
@@robertdunnagan8581 Yep. I never did figure out how to fix it. I ended up just soldering on new halogens and calling it good. I did leave the blinkers and cruise control LED though.
@@HorseGirl256 did you check the polarity, LEDs are polarity specific, out of the four solder contacts on the board only one is positive, the positive LED wire has to go on the positive solder spot or it won’t work
@@wild8757 Thanks for the reply. The LEDs I tried using had indicators for positive and negative and the little bases that the original halogens were on also had +/- markings. I know I used the same +/- contact points as what the original halogens were on but it still didn't work so I'm not sure anymore.
@@HorseGirl256 That is bizarre, I would double check those contacts, if you plug the board back in to your vehicle with it still apart you can take a digital multi meter and touch the contacts, if it gives you a negative reading with a minus sign on the meter that’s the negative, if it gives you a plus number with no minus sign next to the number that’s the positive, Or you could just remove all the bulbs and plug the board back in to your vehicle with it still apart and take one of the new LEDs between your fingers and set it on the contacts a couple of different ways until it lights, then put a dot with a marker on the board next to that contact to label it as the positive, then do the rest the same way, then you’ll have dots next to all the positives for you to mount the LEDs, you’ll definitely light up when you put it all back together, that’s what I would do anyhow. Good luck
Ok did just like you did, when plugged back into the H2 the only two working lights are on the left others didn’t come on, but were working when I did the 9 volt check when replacing HELP TIA
I did this and it works when I test it with a power supply all bulbs on the headlight circuit light up, but when I plug it into my vehicle I get no lights at all, any suggestions?
I need to turn off the ABS light on my truck. Didn't see a bulb for it when you had the gauge overlay off. I guess I could pop the needles off, take off the overlay, and then put electrical tape over the back of the gauge overlay where the ABS light shines through?
Are clustered light connected With parking lights ? I have a 2003 Escalade & I recently put a new cluster but only the gauges lights don’t light up and my taillights don’t work but brake lights does
www.amazon.com/Zinger-Instrument-Chevrolet-Silverados-Suburbans/dp/B074FXMLVG/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_0_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074FXMLVG&pd_rd_r=a3f32c6f-41c2-47de-9706-5e7d1437bb65&pd_rd_w=YP5jd&pd_rd_wg=dkF9E&psc=1&refRID=NHW96C6BZ3GWAX6H7DD4 Led should have a long leg (+) and short leg (-).
For the tungsten/incandescent (NON LED) backlight bulbs, the solder pads on the front of the board are very robust, and the factory solder is very thin. All of the pros I've seen do bulb replacement, carefully pull them off as Bri did. Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb. You can search on eBay or Amazon: "Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
I think I over soldered one of them because all of them lit up except the one for the battery gauge! The solder won't even stick to the little dot that had solder on it! It now is just a black dot that won't hold any solder to it and when I plug it up to see if its working it flutters because the solder won't stay
That usually happens when you hold the solder tip to the metal solder tab for too long. It will pull the metal tab right off of the board, then the solder wont stick.
@@Shawn-ph6ys they will not blow if installed backwards. They simply won't work. They are a diode. One direction of travel. If they flickered then they were wired in correct orientation to begin with. The problem is voltage differences.
2WheeledWanker ! How can I figure out the polarity after I cut all the lead wires to size and he explain in the video. If I attach the battery all bulbs light up, but once I go back to the truck none work. It’s frustrating !!!
I have one bulb that flickers or sometimes goes out for awhile, then comes back on than goes out again. Bad solder joint? Seems if it was a bad bulb, it would stay out.
Hey Brian , Nice to see you are back in the swing of it ! Ben wondering what you were going to cover next. Great video as always , Looking forward to your next one. Shane from Ohio
Great video, thanks!...so what if the little blue bulb sockets are lost?...can you still mount the bulbs to the little solder points without them? Thanks again!
Hi, how are you? I have a problem I do not know if it was from the car computer or from the heat exchanger The problem is that the temperature of the engine rises to the boiling point and the heat regulator shows less than the middle of 80 ° C And fans do not work .. It works when the temperature indicator points more than 90 degrees C What is the problem and thank you ..car equinox LS 2007
I’d guess the purpose of this was GM probably wanted the entire cluster replaced if anything goes bad? Just seems crazy having to do all this to change cluster bulbs
That soldering iron is way too much for this job. Too much heat can cause the circuit traces to lift off the board and then it's problem city. Applying voltage directly to the circuit board is not a good idea either as one touch in the wrong place and it's curtains for the board or those two integrated circuits.
Yea....no. I bought replacement bulbs from Amazon for my envoy but now I'm not doing it. I remember with my 1988 cougar all I had to do was to unmount the cluster the I just unscrew the bulb holders in the back replace the bulbs and reinstall the cluster and I was done. I ain't taking the chance I'd screwing my envoy up. I just wanted brighter lights but now I'll just manage with what I got.
I can't thank you enough for making this video. I bought a dash cluster out of a junkyard car. I removed the good working bulbs from the junkyard car and soldiered them into my cars dash. I marked and saved all parameter dials too. Total cost came to $20, ( $20 for junkyard dash) I hate to think what a dealership would have charged to replace 4 bulbs?
This video is THE go to video to help those with instrument cluster problems in their GM vehicle. I was hesitant to "break off" the old bulbs from their connection. It worked okay for the two that I replaced. It may be better to touch the connection with the soldering iron and melt the solder and lift off the bulb. I really appreciate the use of the 9-volt battery to test for bad bulbs. NOTE: The 9-volt battery will also show what part of the circuit is positive and negative. If the owner is converting to Light Emitting Diode (LED) the it is imperative to determine polarity. Installing the diode with incorrect polarity DOES NOT damage the diode but the bulb will not light. Also note that LEDs will need a resistor of proper value to load the circuit. Incandescent bulbs like the ones replaced in the video have no polarity and require no loading. Thanks for a very good video.
leedek66 the 9-volt battery won't reveal correct polarity because you can light those incandescent bulbs from either position.
Also, the LED resistor is not to "load the circuit", but to limit the current/voltage to a specified value. i.e. 3.3v @ 20mA.
And finally, the plastic blue base tungsten/incandescent bulbs can be safely pulled from the solder pads. The pads on the front of the board are fairly robust, and the factory solder is thin enough to prevent damage. HTH
Tomato.. tomAto... "limit the current/voltage to a specified value." ... to me means load the circuit. Geesh... do you analyze every comment to a post and explain your thoughts? I worked with a couple of guys like you. It was difficult , but I did it. LOL Have a great summer.
This is really going to help me change out those bulbs in my H2 Hummer,,, The only thing I wished you'd mentioned is what type of bulbs to use and where to get them... Thank ever so much for this video....can't wait to change my burnt bulbs...
What size is the bulb that goes in the blue socket and where can i buy them whole sales. How you solder the wire on the 9 volt battery?
What bulbs are you using to replace theae
What side. Do u soder. The positive or. Does it not matter??
just where did you get those bulbs from ??
i need 4 just like those THANKS
Try Amazon. Plus they have led bulbs too.
Very Helpful, trying to find where to buy standard not LED "upgrade" most parts pages pull up the lamp with twist in socket. I have same set up you demo here, can you give me hint where I can get the correct lamps?
I can see my response is a little late, but for any latecomers, here's the answer.
The bulbs depicted in this video:
Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb.
You can search on eBay or Amazon:
"Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
(NON LED)
The part number of the bulb?
Lmk if you find out
How are you able to determine circut polarity for LEDs?
Great video , can you tell us where you got the replacement lights ? Thanks
And what is the bulb size too.. thanks
This is going to help a lot of people. Thanks.
Thanks!
It helped me, that's for sure! Very pleased with Bri's video tutorials. Saving me a lot of money (-:
*plus it's fun to work on your own stuff* There is always a good feeling when you can accomplish fixing anything and it working like new again.
I have a 2009 Ford Escape. At least two LED bulbs are out in the instrument cluster. What bulbs do I need? Are most LED instrument cluster bulbs standard from vehicle to vehicle?
Question: don’t the bulbs have a positive that needs to be placed in a certain direction on the board??? How do I know which one it is??
I just installed new Red LEDs in my cluster instrument panel 2005 Chevy Aveo LS sedan with no soldering done. I just replaced the old condom bulbs which were green to start with. It's a fairly easy project I completed in about an hour or so.
How do you know what side is - and +
Where did you order these bulbs?
Is that basely the same on a 2012 Chevy Avalanche LTZ. The lites on mine are hard to see in the day light where the mileage indicator is
This video is for backlighting, not your digital displays for the mileage and PRNDL. Those are totally different.
Good video. What Size are the bulbs?
Super informational. I really liked your demonstration of replacing the surface mounted light bulbs. It was very helpful to me.
Any info on the bulbs? would like to attempt this repair
Does it matter how you put the bulb on? Is there a positive and negative
No, not for tungsten/incandescent (NON LED) bulbs. Only with LED bulbs do you have to be concerned about polarity.
The bulbs depicted in this video:
Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb.
You can search on eBay or Amazon:
"Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
Ok so what about led . Which solder pad is positive and which is negative
This is so helpful! I am about to attempt the bulb replacement on my 2007 3500 HD. What size (part # are these bulbs and where can I buy them)?
Where where can I buy the replacement lights for the
6:23 CT
would you happen to know were i can get a diagram/schematic for 06 gmc sierra 1500 5.e cluster
What year was the GM that the instrument cluster came out of?
This was out of a 2003 Chevrolet Suburban
What kind of bulbs are they bro...
Sure, thank you, but what bulb lamps does an 04 tahoe use in the cluster?
If you want to change them to LED, how do you make sure the correct polarity?
Hi there quick question. Where were you applying power to check all the lights at once? Or did you check each light individually?
The lights that are connected to each other in the cluster (back lights) you test all at the same time.. However other bulbs like turn signal etc individually
That 9V battery idea is GENIUS!
Hi nice video i need help i have a 97 chevy and the light where you change the gear shifter the bight bulbs don't work. Any help please
How can you determine the polarity on the cluster itself not the bulb but the cluster
What about the polarity of the bulbs? Does it matter??
No, not for tungsten/incandescent (NON LED) bulbs. Only with LED bulbs do you have to be concerned about polarity.
The bulbs depicted in this video:
Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb.
You can search on eBay or Amazon:
"Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
Does the bulb really need the blue plastic holder?
Yes, It will get the perfect height. If you don't use it the led might hit the plastic and it also keep the led from shorting if you hit a lot of bumps.
Actually, most of the"pros" that I've seen replace backlight bulbs never reuse the plastic base. They bend & trim the leads as low as possible to get the widest angle of light radiation, in order to prevent light "hot-spots".
Would this be the same procedure on 06 dodge charger?
No. Dodge clusters are totally different.
3:30 Yikes! Those are soldered in. They should be unsoldered, not ripped off the board. You will risk pulling a pad this way, and I suspect the trace for this is internal, so if the pad is pulled, good luck getting a contact again. Also, there are much better LED bulbs with three chips that really light up the cluster well, better than a single LED. I use those when I do this and toss the plastic housing.
im about to tear into this tonight, so youre telling me you do NOT reuse the blue block when putting the new leds in? Im literally about to get at it right now.
What millimeter size bulbs are they? 5mm or 3mm?
How do you find out witch side is Positive and negative on the light balls?
incandescent bulbs are not polarity sensitive just LEDs are
Followed all steps tested good then once plugged in only the blinkers work. How do you test it to see if they are in the right way if they all come on when I originally tested then?
I have a 2003 Tahoe I’m trying to change the LEDs on the overhead AC control unit it’s … it’s not the same as the 2002 models …. Help !!!!!! 😢
Does anyone know where to get the little bulb socket the bulb is going in, the little blue piece? Mine are melted and half the size. Any help would be appreciated. Great video BTW!
Do I need to add a resistor to the bulb?
My bulbs were new, they’re all attached, not lighting. Should I buy newer ones and try again? Had them for around 2 years in packaging..
Thanks a lot for ur video it was very helpful 😊😊😊
EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Thanks, you are da man! Great tip on the 9 v batt!!!!
Nice! Glad my video could help..
I just thought of this but didn’t want to damage my board by doing it. So thank you for the reassurance. Everyone wants to charge you to tell you the boards polarity. Getting ready to solder my new leds and stepper motors now
QUESTION: I replaced all my bulbs with led bulbs that i had to solder to my cluster .. When I reconnected only one signal light was working.. I tested all my led bulbs prior with my multi meter and they all worked... .. None of my other lights are showing nor are the needles moving ....
ALL of my gauges worked and my cluster was lite prior to my modification ....
LED bulbs need to be inserted with the correct polarity - with the original bulbs either lead could be soldered to either terminal because polarity isn't an issue. Try switching one of your non-working LED bulbs around (rotate 180 degrees) and see if that works. If so, then correct the rest.
This is helpful. I’m to attempt the bulb replacement on my 2004 2500hd silverado
I received a rebuilt instrument cluster. The brake light is permanently on. My car has no brake issues. What could be the cause?
Check your brake fluid reservoir. Sometimes the sensor could go bad and cause the light to
Stay on.
How come no does this to the Grand Prix GXP clusters?
What's the part number on the bulbs
There is no OEM P/N for these bulbs. You have to buy them from aftermarket suppliers.
The bulbs depicted in this video:
Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb.
You can search on eBay or Amazon:
"Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
Hi Bri thank you for your helpful video. Did all the steps in replacing stepper motor but my gas gage and water gage isnt moving. Can u help me and tell me what I did wrong? Ive been searching for a video to help me fix what I did wrong. Thank you
Do you know how or have videos on how to replace the bulbs in the cluster of a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS??
Should be the same for the most part. You might have Led's that are soldered in a hole and come out the back side of the board. Will need a solder sucker or solder wick to help remove the solder. He should have used it in the video because you can damage the pads on the board.
Would the same work on cluster bulb replace for a 2008 Chevy Equinox?
Would've been helpful for you to kinda show the place you touched the wires to light up bulbs, don't you think...
Very helpful. Thank you for making this video.
I followed these steps and did a super clean job, all the LEDs work perfectly with the 9 volt battery tester I made. I put it in my truck and only the blinker lights want to work. Any ideas as to what’s going on?
same thing happened to me
@@robertdunnagan8581 Yep. I never did figure out how to fix it. I ended up just soldering on new halogens and calling it good. I did leave the blinkers and cruise control LED though.
@@HorseGirl256 did you check the polarity, LEDs are polarity specific, out of the four solder contacts on the board only one is positive, the positive LED wire has to go on the positive solder spot or it won’t work
@@wild8757 Thanks for the reply. The LEDs I tried using had indicators for positive and negative and the little bases that the original halogens were on also had +/- markings. I know I used the same +/- contact points as what the original halogens were on but it still didn't work so I'm not sure anymore.
@@HorseGirl256 That is bizarre, I would double check those contacts, if you plug the board back in to your vehicle with it still apart you can take a digital multi meter and touch the contacts, if it gives you a negative reading with a minus sign on the meter that’s the negative, if it gives you a plus number with no minus sign next to the number that’s the positive, Or you could just remove all the bulbs and plug the board back in to your vehicle with it still apart and take one of the new LEDs between your fingers and set it on the contacts a couple of different ways until it lights, then put a dot with a marker on the board next to that contact to label it as the positive, then do the rest the same way, then you’ll have dots next to all the positives for you to mount the LEDs, you’ll definitely light up when you put it all back together, that’s what I would do anyhow. Good luck
Ok did just like you did, when plugged back into the H2 the only two working lights are on the left others didn’t come on, but were working when I did the 9 volt check when replacing HELP TIA
I did this and it works when I test it with a power supply all bulbs on the headlight circuit light up, but when I plug it into my vehicle I get no lights at all, any suggestions?
Mine does the same did u find out what was wrong ?
I need to turn off the ABS light on my truck. Didn't see a bulb for it when you had the gauge overlay off. I guess I could pop the needles off, take off the overlay, and then put electrical tape over the back of the gauge overlay where the ABS light shines through?
Are clustered light connected With parking lights ? I have a 2003 Escalade & I recently put a new cluster but only the gauges lights don’t light up and my taillights don’t work but brake lights does
Exceptionally helpful video. Thank you!
What's the issue if all the gauges "except rpm and speed" go down when I'm driving on the road. 2003 Trailblazer
great video but have you come across when the circuit board is damaged and you're unable to apply solder for the bulb
Hi bro. What about the polarity of the bulbs.? Has + and - or not? And other question. Can i find the bulbs on blue color?
www.amazon.com/Zinger-Instrument-Chevrolet-Silverados-Suburbans/dp/B074FXMLVG/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_0_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074FXMLVG&pd_rd_r=a3f32c6f-41c2-47de-9706-5e7d1437bb65&pd_rd_w=YP5jd&pd_rd_wg=dkF9E&psc=1&refRID=NHW96C6BZ3GWAX6H7DD4
Led should have a long leg (+) and short leg (-).
i believe my actual " check engine light bulb " is not working. is this pretty much same process to replace that little bulb?
GM made this difficult to replace simple bulbs. They could have just used them twist out.
yeah, the older ones like the 90’s only have twist n’ change bulbs, at least for illumination bulbs
Yeah it's sickening it's a tactic to get you to just buy a new cluster
Why would you just snap them off! Couldn't that just pull the pads off?
For the tungsten/incandescent (NON LED) backlight bulbs, the solder pads on the front of the board are very robust, and the factory solder is very thin. All of the pros I've seen do bulb replacement, carefully pull them off as Bri did.
Bulb spec: 12-14v 95mA mini bulb.
You can search on eBay or Amazon:
"Mini bulbs GM cluster backlight"
I think I over soldered one of them because all of them lit up except the one for the battery gauge! The solder won't even stick to the little dot that had solder on it! It now is just a black dot that won't hold any solder to it and when I plug it up to see if its working it flutters because the solder won't stay
That usually happens when you hold the solder tip to the metal solder tab for too long. It will pull the metal tab right off of the board, then the solder wont stick.
I have replaced my bulbs with LED bulbs, I plugged it in and they just flickered then wouldn’t turn on... what could be my problem?
Blown LEDs. Need proper resistors to go with LEDs
If the Led is installed backwards it will blow and you need a new one. The long lead is Pos and short side is neg.
@@Shawn-ph6ys they will not blow if installed backwards. They simply won't work. They are a diode. One direction of travel. If they flickered then they were wired in correct orientation to begin with. The problem is voltage differences.
2WheeledWanker !
How can I figure out the polarity after I cut all the lead wires to size and he explain in the video.
If I attach the battery all bulbs light up, but once I go back to the truck none work.
It’s frustrating !!!
I have one bulb that flickers or sometimes goes out for awhile, then comes back on than goes out again. Bad solder joint? Seems if it was a bad bulb, it would stay out.
Great video, helped me be confident with repair
Hey Brian , Nice to see you are back in the swing of it ! Ben wondering what you were going to cover next. Great video as always , Looking forward to your next one. Shane from Ohio
Thanks so much! Trying to keep up!
After you mark the needle location, turn the needle past the stop to break its connection to the shaft. Then the needle will come off so much easier.
I tried and using the 9volt battery I get power to the bulbs, but nothing when I plug back I got he truck
does aligning the needles like that and changing the motors affect calibration. Heard it does and just wonder as I'm about to do this myself.
Great video, thanks!...so what if the little blue bulb sockets are lost?...can you still mount the bulbs to the little solder points without them? Thanks again!
Awesome job explaining the process! Thanks for making the video
What are those light bulbs called?
Great video,very detailed and informative,Thank You! I’ve subscribed.
Thank you so Much!!! Very easy instructions!
I haven't seen a single video that tells me what side of the connector on the board is positive and what is negative
incandescent bulbs are not polarity sensitive just LEDs are
Excellent video
Hi, how are you? I have a problem I do not know if it was from the car computer or from the heat exchanger The problem is that the temperature of the engine rises to the boiling point and the heat regulator shows less than the middle of 80 ° C And fans do not work .. It works when the temperature indicator points more than 90 degrees C What is the problem and thank you ..car equinox LS 2007
I’d guess the purpose of this was GM probably wanted the entire cluster replaced if anything goes bad? Just seems crazy having to do all this to change cluster bulbs
That soldering iron is way too much for this job. Too much heat can cause the circuit traces to lift off the board and then it's problem city. Applying voltage directly to the circuit board is not a good idea either as one touch in the wrong place and it's curtains for the board or those two integrated circuits.
Got variable amp power supply, what setting should I have amps at to test the bulbs? Thank for the vids.
thanks,you explained it perfect.
Thanks for sharing !!
And where do you get the bulbs? What type? Good grief.
Well at least this video shows the lights correctly. Not the twist in bulbs that mine clearly doesn't have
Why is nobody showing how to fix the tail light third brake light 09 GMC Acadia
What about the led lights
Thanks sir. Great video.
It's disappointing that these things aren't plug and play. Soldering is not my game.
Why tf did they not use bayonet mount bulb holders
Why not change them to LED? If you went through all that trouble…🤷♂️
Yea....no. I bought replacement bulbs from Amazon for my envoy but now I'm not doing it. I remember with my 1988 cougar all I had to do was to unmount the cluster the I just unscrew the bulb holders in the back replace the bulbs and reinstall the cluster and I was done. I ain't taking the chance I'd screwing my envoy up. I just wanted brighter lights but now I'll just manage with what I got.
Throwing it at the wall is another way of separating it.
Seriously though,the 9volt battery is very useful,THANKS for the video.
Nevermind I just realized yall aren't helping anybody in the comment section.