MORE POWER with cooling! | improving the Victron DC-DC Charger
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- Опубліковано 11 тра 2022
- Bold claim I improve my Real world efficiency and output of my Victron DC to DC charges by 25% with active cooling fans.
If you wish to purchase an Orion B2B here is an affiliate link for my channel
Orion 30A non-isolated:
www.bspksolar.co.uk/victron-e...
Orion 30 AIsolated:
www.bspksolar.co.uk/victron-e...
Other Victron items
www.bspksolar.co.uk/?tracking...
“Real world” is the important part. These units are notorious for overheating. The units thermal throttle and decrease their 30 amp charge output when they overheat. Hotter they get a lower output. I often see my unit down to 25A in a vented electrical cupboard, even in my testing you see a completely open unit start to thermal throttle.
However this does work in the opposite direction cooler the unit higher the output including higher than the listed 30A output.
The 30A / 360w rating which Victron list is actually at 40° operating temperature. The manual also lists a 430w output at 25°.
And that is what the principal of this video is on.
So I decided to make a active cooling
In the video I only achieve a output increase of around 10-15% due to my testes only being 30 minutes in Length as thermal throttling was only down to 28amp at 30mins , my real world observations over the last year or so have shown for my set up being 25amp output at around an hour mark. 25amp uncooled vs a 32.5amp output in 25%  Increase
With my current system Cooling solution I achieve a 32.5 amp output after multiple hours on my units
- Affiliate Links below -
12v 120mm Blower fan
eBay UK = ebay.us/ZRt9Ae or ebay.us/OOPDJT
ebay USA = ebay.us/8FB505
Amazon UK = amzn.to/3rVAJeJ
Victron B2B 12 12 30A
non-isolated eBay UK = ebay.us/XT54jS
isolated eBay UK = ebay.us/9V8191
Both eBay USA = ebay.us/7fFBVm
non-isolated Amazon = UK amzn.to/3gMlZsa
isolated Amazon UK = amzn.to/3BodJIa
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Great video. The other elephant in the room is that electronics generally have a massive drop in reliability when run hot. The cooler unit will almost certainly outlast the uncooled unit by a multiple.
Definitely there’s pretty much no negative points on cooling electronics, both from performance and relative point of view
Absolutely fascinating. Despite the launch of the Victron DC-DC 50 this is probably as valid today as then (given what the components do).
Amazed given how many corporate builders like to show off their beautiful, yes beautiful to behold, wiring in confined spaces yet have NEVER seen any todate talk about the cooling required. Left me with the intent of squeezing as much into as small a space as possible with no regard for optimal performance. Now understand that confinement does not equate to peak efficiency. An invaluable and timeless lesson for wiring electrical systems.
Thank you.
Ps been watching the channel for awhile simply for the kudos of your van travelling in the Artic. At 60 you have become my pin-up hero! Respect.
Thank you. The new Orion XS 50A is 98% efficiency so little heat is mad but this core idea of keeping electrical components cooler is definitely valid as ever. I do also often lovely build stuffed in cupboard without vent.
Glad to like my arctic videos, I love making them
I didn't read all the comments so I don't know if anyone has suggested this.
Turn the Orian around so the cooling fins aren't against the door and are facing into the cabinet. Just build a mounting bracket. You'll get lots of air flow around the cooling fins.
If you wanted, you could mount a fan on the cooling fins like a desktop CPU.
WeBoost are designed to have the cooling fins facing outward.
So simple, yet once, you know it, so obvious! BRILLANT IDEA! Of course, that has to be the way. Very smart suggestion.
Except in our conceits we want to show off our sexy blue Victron boxes to all fellow enthusiasts. If we just went with thermal efficiency then, exactly, that should be the default passive placement for optimal output.
And I don't mean any of this sarcastically. Genuinely this should be the way the units are placed as nearly all are hidden away from the ambient air/air-flow. But again once you say it, seems so obvious. I would say contact Victron but they love us all admiring their gold standard blue boxes to not want to disfigure that with a outward facing heatsinks, even if blue! As would lose invaluable brand and advertsing space. Which is probs why they point out in two lines, buried in the manual, the thermal in/efficiencies BUT DO NOT DO ANYTHING PRO-ACTIVE ABOUT IT. As the new at time of writing DC-DC 50 looks indentical.
Now, there is a story of corporate responsibility....
I think the cooling fan and ducting is a great idea. Great in depth testing.😄
Thank you. I enjoyed the testing and being able to log data to see the real world improvements
@@MispronouncedAdventures I would absolutely buy that kit!
Thanks for taking the time outlining the contents of your video in the description. I wish more people would do that!
Thank you I felt for this video as I was doing tests and data it was helpful to have that sort of list down below as well.
Brilliant!.. thorough.. well engineered.. keep up the great vids..
Much appreciated :)
Brilliant video and great idea, I also have a small brushless fan under my dc2dc controlled by the auxbeam 8 gang RGB panel,after moving it because of the heat from under living quarters bench seat into the rear, as you rightly have proven they get proper hot, really pleased with the results and also adding longevity to the dc2dc. Definitely think there is a commercial opportunity for a cooling kit. 👍
I would buy one for sure. I'm just now starting to add a second battery to a suburban build.
Thanks for the informative video.
Super helpful. I bought the fan for my B2B
Thank you very much, hope you get a better output
that is a crazy set up i love it
Cheers! More power the better!
Yes I would definitely be interested in a kit!
Feedback has been great. So will be looking into the next steps
actual testing with data is very cool or hot depending on your frame of reference. Simplified, data is useful! :) Thanks for posting this.
Thank you. Well I’m sure more scientific tests could be done and better data collection and plotting. I think it’s overall is a great way to both have test data and visualise differences
Just stumbled across your channel so thanks ! Always like to see hardware working at its underlying capability and squeezing 33% more output can only be a good thing. I am starting to plan my own van conversion and was thinking about running a 48v leisure system with cheap buck converters dropping down at each 12v load. All that thick wiring needed for 12V looks very tidy but less convenient. When I worked in industry, 50v was considered the threshold between safe and unsafe voltage so 48v still OK.
Thank you I think it’s a great way to demonstrate how important cooling is. And you’re very much correct working with 24 or 48 V systems, wiring is a lot more convenient and less expensive!
Superb, Alex. I work with repairing computers for my day job so I appreciate the positive effects of decent cooling on electrical components. It's not surprising how much more efficient stuff runs at given a meaty heatsink and active cooling but it IS surprising how infrequent manufacturers supply adequate cooling for their equipment. You're really getting your money's worth from that Flir camera!
P.S. Must say a massive thank you on behalf of my daughter and her boyfriend - you did a spot of troubleshooting on their Renogy Dc to DC at Camp Quirky last weekend. They can't stop singing your praises - and rightly so. You're a top guy. Peter
Definitely. It had a larger effect than I thought. Definitely by default in adequate cooling for this unit even running in optimal mounting conditions. But it is nice that Victron made the temperature related to the output for above 30 as well. Oh yes getting a lot of use from the flir camera. It’s just a great little tool for visualising lots of things.
Absolutely my pleasure helping them they’re both lovely. Hopefully we will all meet again at another event this year.
Excellent video. I have been planning on doing the same thing. Very valuable info
Glad it’s been helpful. Good luck with your own project!
@@MispronouncedAdventures Many thanks
Great video I was thinking of doing something similar. Years ago I was using a CB radio type power supply to power a electric cool box and the cooling fins got very hot, so I installed a couple 50mm pc fans to it blowing up the fins. This worked extremely well and if anything the fins stayed cold
Oh definitely any type of cooling on any heat sink will improves its efficiency.
Excellent vid🤘
Thank you
Would definitely purchase a kit, enjoyed your vids👍
Thank you very much!
Hey Alex, great video, the kit sounds like a great idea.
Thank you very much
Great vid, thanks mate. I will defo be doing this in my van 😁oh and yes to a kit please 😁
Glad to hear the idea of a cooling kit is wanted!
Excellent, Cheers!
Thank you for watching
Another brilliant video Alex I think these kits would be good I would definitely be interested good luck mate
Thank you very much. I’m glad to see there’s a lot of interest it’s something we will work towards making into a kit, it might take some time however.
Great video thanks for posting.
I am looking to add a single 30Amp B2B to my Peugeot van. I seem to remember that CamperVibe put their B2B with the vehicle battery which is under the passenger's feet. If there was room and it was practical I would like the kit.
I think being compact is essential, so rear mounted probably better. I think it's important to ventilate the chamber the B2B is mounted in - like you've done.
Yes I believe camper vibes sterling unit already has a built-in fan. but I believe it’s with many of the units more compact the unit usually hotter they get.
The kit we will be looking at making a compact version as well
I am at the ICS and someone tipped me off about this. I already have two Orions for exactly the same reason as you and am fascinated about the dramatic increases you achieved from active cooling. Given your testing it is something I am now interested in installing in my van. As my Victron gear is in a restricted space I would definitely be interested in an off-the-shelf compact cooling kit.
It’s a great show, a little wet today however.
Yeah my increases in my real word performance has been great. I’ve seen people have far lower than normal outputs in the set ups due to overheating.
Any form of direct cooling on the unit or cooling the cabinet will definitely increase performance regardless
@@MispronouncedAdventures it was good to meet with you at the ICS and to share your thoughts about cooling the Orions. I was inspired by your video and your real world findings and I have now shamelessly copied your setup (except the 3D printed duct as I don't have access to such a printer). Thanks once again.
Nice video Alex and I have a tip for you, it's more efficient to draw the heat out than it is to blow air in.
Thank you. I wasn’t aware of this concept so I’ve just done a bit of research and looking at. It seems was generally true drawing air across it was more efficient in high-density Fin design heatsinks whilst blowing out across was more effective during low-density Fin design heatsinks. I didn’t know about any of that for this test, I think drawing air across with this model of fan wouldn’t be practical given the fan design but it would be interesting to see on the version with the normal PC fan which was more effective in the case of the Orion
In the PC world, people have tested both ways, drawing air and blowing air over a heatsink and there is very minimal temp change between the two
Excellent!!
Glad you enjoyed
Great video.
Thank you very much
Super interesting and very technical. I think the kits would sell.
I'm looking to get a self convert, not done by myself as I don't know Phillip from Flathead but I intend to be fully electric and think I'd benefit from this
Glad to hear you think so I guess me the purpose of the kit would be really easy to install just improves performance sort of deal
Yes I’d be interested
Nice R&D video.
I think there's a good chance this will be the standard of installing the Victron DC-DC charger in a few years.
Thank you yes the video is definitely a proof of concept style video.
But it does seem there is certainly a interest in active cooling system which will overall improve the health and performance of the units
Ottimo lavoro
Thank you
The kit is a great idea. I am interested
thanks for testing this. it would be great to have an overall verdict also including the powerdraw from the fans...e.i. the differnce in power gain vs power lost of the 2x 1A? fans
There isnt any power lost / lost of charging
Potential from the fans as they power via the input side so. So they don’t take from the output. They are 1A fans so 12-14w to run each one.
Per charger from uncooled to cool. My real world difference was 26A output to 32.5A. Although that’s very circumstantial to my set up. The overall purpose of the video was to demonstrate how important cooling is for these units, and that they can be called to achieve more than their assumed 30amp output.
When I moved mine into a location with much less airflow I wondered if it would be a problem. I can confirm, I noticed a massive loss in output. Over 50 watts. It will be getting moved very soon.
Location is definitely very important with these units. I seen some units out putting less than 20A due to thermal throttling in the wrong locations.
I believe it is a viable idea. Please post notification if you decide to go ahead. I could use such a kit an installation of the 24-24-17 at present.
Hi, I just discovered your channel. Thank you for all the time and effort you put into producing content. I have been planning on putting some Fans in for my DC-DC, and this has inspired me to pull my finger out and get it done. However, I'm not sure how to control the fans to come on and off; I currently have it set up to sense engine switch on, so not sure how to trigger the fans. Do you have a wiring diagram or advice on the physical set up ?
Glad you have found the channel and this video helpful.
I’ve had my fans turn on with an “ignition live”, I did think about a temperature relay but didn’t see much point. If the Orion’s are on might as well have fans on
I tried the loud fans at first to cool under me bed where my equipment is but the fans were loud and higher amp draw. I switched to the quite weaker fans and they still pull plenty of air but are silent. Great video and it would be cool to have a kit that attached to the bottom of the dcdc chargers and also the charge controllers
The fans are loads for me and have a high amp draw but from the input side so no change output and are only triggered via the engine on. So I don’t hear them.
The same works on "fanless" inverters (of any type - they tend to run hot, especially when ambient conditions warm up) - a little additional cooling input is well rewarded energy usage.
Definitely, I can’t see how adding cooling to any type of electrical device which gets hot would be a disadvantage
@@MispronouncedAdventures Why don't peeps mount all this running hot kit directly to the van chassis then?
Newbie question that just immediately occurs to naive me!
Id be keen to buy the kit :)
This is great. Many thanks. I am in the process of converting my van and this has highlighted the importance of cooling on electrical performance - something that before I was aware of only vaguely. Did you upgrade your alternator to handle the extra amps/extra heat load when idling? If so, would be interested in seeing a video about that.
Hello, alternator wise my van came with a pretty large 220A alternator which is easily sufficient for this task. I have a second video about install the duel B2B charger and showing thermal imaging of the alternator and it’s temperatures.
Really nice video ! Do you think you could share the 3D file for the air duct? I'm myself installing a victron B2B in my van and I'm concerned about heating issues .. Thank you ! Or I could be interested in buying a kit but I needed it like 2 weeks ago ^^
How did you manage wiring of the fan and the triggering of them ?
Thank you !
Great vid. And a great electrical setup. Very envious.
Great idea with the ducting, has there been any information on a possible sale of the ducting or the release of the stl file.
Glad you enjoyed it.
There are a few people who now sell variations of the ducting idea. Depends which country you are in.
I love the real world experimenting and methods of testing.
Obviously in a van situation, space is a real concern. However, it would be great to see the result of bolting the converter heat sinks to the van body/floor (or an aluminium plate attached to the van body) to take advantage of outside temperatures and thus negate the need for fans. Obviously wouldn't work well in hotter climates, or where the van floor is heated from exhaust.
Love the videos.
Yes there are lots of different ways you could cool these units. For the video primarily wanted to demonstrate the effect on output versus unit temperature and my personal over-the-top method helps exaggerate the effects. But there are definitely multiple other ways you could get cooling for them.
Ah ha! Yes a year latter the same thought occurs to me. But I acknowledge you got htere first! Why not use a massive van heat sink. Seems obvs but yet not seen a build that uses it :)
Good information on how much cooling affects the systems' performance.
I just did the same with my RedArc system (30 amp a/w 40 amp chargers) Before doing it - I did not know it was a thing.
Since my cooling fins are on the top of my chargers I have a multipurpose portable fan that I can use when I have both chargers engaged - which will not be necessary that often - but will be REAL nice to have when circumstances deem it necessary !!!
So are you going to open the door when you are charging with the 2 chargers to increase air flow?
Great video,yes Cooling fans would be awesome il would be intrested if the had a temperature sensor even better, if u can make some for there inverter chargers ,alot of people would buy
I had looked into a temperature sensor and whilst it would’ve been reasonably easy to do I have multiple spare temperature relays around I thought it was a potentially unnecessary. As the units will overheat every time they are on. And they’re only gonna be on when the ignition is on, so using an ignition live to trigger the fans seem like just as good idea. Whilst a temperature relay could be useful in an environment where a ignition live is not accessible all that you wanted the fans to turn off after they had finished bulking
Thanks for your through work - super clean install. Love those push connectors with screw mounts....super clean way to deal with small gauge wiring. Who makes those?
Thank you. The connections are call Wago connectors. The mounts are separate and they came with a kit, but I’m struggling to find them separately at the moment.
I really like the idea…do you think it could be improved even more if the chargers were fitted in an enclosure with fans either end..even route some ducting to a cool spot in the van like a footwell ? I love your ingenious electrics ideas👍🏼 itl be a peltier cooler off the Bobil to power the charger fans next ⚡️🤩
Definitely could be improved I’m sure there’s a number of ways it could be done better.
I’ve been wanting to play with Peliter units for sometime now
I've installed mine onto a big heat sink aluminium plate and also sonoff temp th16 module set to trip the fans on at desired temperature
I had originally planned for a temperature sensor, but decided not to in the end. It wasn’t gonna be needed for me. The units always overheat when on when the engines running so might as well just have the fans always running if the engines on
You could also limit the output of the chargers so they overall run cooler and last much longer.
That FLIR cam is awesome. I’m gonna pick one up to observe my solar gear.
In what way limited the output? As far as I’m away on this Orion model there is no option to adjust the max output ( this option is available on the rengory B2B chargers ) and some others
@@MispronouncedAdventures I double checked, my MPPT controllers have a “Max Charge Current” setting in the battery menu in Settings. Does the Orion have the same menu setting?
Alex - another great video, thanks…. You mounted the chargers on aluminium plates… might I suggest extra cooling might be achieved if you ‘stood’ the plates off of the doors (nylon spacers maybe?)
Anyway - we’ll done 👍
In this case the aluminium plates are to meet the mounting of Orion which is to be mounted on a none flammable material.
There isn’t really much contact between the fins and the backing
Love the 3D printed duct. Underneath my Tundra driver's seat my B2B is mounted just a tad above the AC floor duct to a bottomless heat sink bolted around the edges of the B2B. On hot days I bulk charge with the AC split between dash and floor giving my B2B some much needed cold air cooling. Would like to add a secondary Orion using your nifty product. Cheers
That’s a good plan putting it above a Ac duct. Anything to cool there units is for the better
Brilliant video, what about creating a vent above the DC2DC unit to blow the dispersed heat into the cabin?
it’s difficult to see in this video there’s actually a custom 3-D printed ducting in the electrical cabinet which pulls out of the air out of the cabinet when the door is closed
Thanks for the video, mind sharing your 3d model for the fan/shroud? I have a couple of laptop cpu/gpu fans that look to be the same spec and have the same problem to solve.
definitely purchase a kit
Thank you very much. I’m glad to see there’s a lot of interest it’s something we will work towards making into a kit, it might take some time however.
Outstanding video. Curious if Renogy DC-DC chargers that come dual fans in the unit are superior? I've got a 40A renogy DC-DC charger and the fans kick on as soon as the unit heats up and produces noticable amount of heat exhaust.
Active cooling is going to be better than passive for sure. I don’t think the Renogy have a temperature related output like that Victron ones.
All my chargers and inverters ate under my bed in my travel trailer 7000 watts inverter 45 kw lithium and 200 watts of victron charge controllers. Also 100 amps of 110 chargers with powermax 24 volt chargers. I use 2 small fans one pulling and the other side of the bed cabinet a fan is pushing air out. In the winter it helps heat the camper but summer it kinda cooks that bedroom. I need to install a vent hose qnd fan to pump the hot air outside during summer
My electrical cabinet does pump out from heat in the winter
This is just what I want! Mine gets so hot I can’t touch it and it drops to 19-23amps.
Do you sell the kits? Or even the files so I can 3d print it myself?
I’m only here for the comment section 🍿
Super nice well done, that’s what I always liked at your Chanel.Would like to get tow one for the Orion the other one for the mppt.Please let us know when your friend will make some bucks.Thanks…
Thank you very much. I’m glad to see there’s a lot of interest it’s something we will work towards making into a kit, it might take some time however.
As for a MPPT version. Well the ducting Kit originally will be based for the Orion or units of the same sized heat sink . any form of direct airflow will definitely help the mppt
Great job in coming up with this mod.
Yes… I would consider your blower with the 3D printed channel.
If you added a space gap behind the DC-DC charger I think it would add to the cooling equation.
Questions :
Have you considered using a better fan/blower?
Quieter and using less power?
Also if you would go up one size on your wires would it add efficiency & cooling?
Cheers….. Yvon
Space gaps to aid cooling would definitely be beneficial. There should be at least 10 cm above the unit and I seen some people install them with gaps behind.
I don’t really think I could get a better fan or blower. The fan I’m currently using is pretty powerful at 1 amp at 12 V. I don’t feel a more powerful fan could achieve much better cooling.
Quieter and less powerful could be an option, but would probably decrease in the cooling factor . However, the power consumption for the fan is somewhat irrelevant ( for me ) as it comes from the input side, so does not subtract from the output potential. As for noise, the fans are only running while the engine is running, and I easily drowned out by the action of driving.
my main cable run is 50mm2 then splitting off just before the units themselves to 16mm2 which is the maximum input the units can take. Losses through those cables are tiny. Under the thermal camera much of the temperature in the cables comes from direct transfer from the hot unit opposed to heating up via resistance
Dude what an awesome idea, I would definitely do that on my camper, I have the isolated dc/dc 30A, I found the vent on Amazon, now I need the black air spread. Can I have the file so I could print it? I'll pay for it ofcourse. Thanks for sharing all these informations to the world ❤
Brilliant, Alex...!! Could I get a cooling kit? I'm about to install the Orion into my van.....Thanks
For the price of the victron stuff there should be active cooling included in the unit from the factory. It’s ridiculous to think the product will begin throttling performance at 40degrees centigrade. If you start producing kits they’ll have to be victron blue. RAL5012 is the colour code you need for the 3d printer spool. 😉
Completely agree and most of the competitors seem to have active cooling!
You are right it would have to be blue!
If you think the Orion is ridiculous....look at the thermal derates for their inverters. Phoenix Compact 12V 2000va......at 25C it is making 1600W. At 40C it drops to 1400W 65C 1000w.
My guess is the throttling is their way of preserving device for long-term use or overcautious safety measures
@@MispronouncedAdventures I will admit Victron is rather transparent with their specs - maybe that is an industry standard derate?
There was a time when computers didn't have fans attached to the CPU's heatsink. (Think way back to 286 and 386 processors.) As clock speeds increased, the heat produced started to skyrocket. By the time the first Pentium was introduced, installing a fan on the CPU heatsink became the norm. This is basically the same idea..... Forced-air cooling works well. Nice job.
I definitely agree I’m sure there are a few old CPU and CPU fanless cooler around my parents loft.
My more extreme forced airflow system has definitely been very beneficial
Remember the Slotted Pentiums? Created so much heat that it was better to get airflow on two sides set perpendicular to the motherboard.
Another great video. Did you ever make an active cooling kit to sell?
I think you would get sales.. This blue stuff is so common, But there are other B2B that may improve just the same !
Great video, Question: as all the testing was done with the cabinet open any thoughts or tests on how efficient the cooling is when the system is in a closed cabinet space (I am assuming you have the cabinet closed when driving/charging) thanks
Its good point and a correct assumption. The door open / closed effect was not part of the testing. I was demonstrating the effect of cooling on the unit opposed to showing the best way to cool them.
But the is a decrease in cooling effectiveness when the door is closed, however there is a additional extractor fan base inside the cabinet which removes hot when the doors please. Otherwise you would just be moving around hot air inside the cabinet
Just found your channel, excellent video. Definitely believe the 3d printed ducting kit would be excellent. Let me know when available.
Thank you very much for finding my channel and glad you enjoyed the video. If we do get further with the ducting Kit, I will make a channel announcement for people.
The efficiency of this DC-DC are only around 87% and it gets so easily overheated and reduce the charge current just after few minutes.
I would recommend the ultra compact Votronic VCC1212-30 with 95% efficiency and built in fan. It charges with exact 30A even in hotter conditions and can be installed in plcaes with limited space and air circulation.
I hope the new released Victron Orion smart buckboost 50A will be better than the current 30A. Will be intresting to make a test of that one.
Currently doing my best to get my hands on two of the new 50A buckboosts through work.
Interesting reading their manual, I noticed they make a few references to forced airflow increasing unit performance. Although for me, I’m looking forward to being able to connect to my Cerbo
My victron dc dc is skipping bulk phase I found forums alone many others having the same issue. This didn’t happen when I first got it. Ran it for only a few trips then started doing it. Things useless now. Anyone figure out then solution? I’m thinking just go with a different brand all together.
That is a odd symptoms. Normally charges leaving bulk too early is a charge profile setting issue, battery already full or a high amp charge current on a smaller battery which causes to increase quicker.
I would like to buy one of the 3D printed concentrator ducting 'thingy' or get the files so I could print it myself. Are either of those things possible? I'll attempt to make one myself, if not, but wanted to ask and save some stress! :) Thanks for sharing!
I probably won't be a customer for that brilliant idea but im sure there would be plenty of people who would so go for it
Thank you very much it was overall fun experiment to increase my own performance
have you though about mounting to the body of the van as you go to very cold places and use a thurmal compound might make the even better
Wondering if you made the commercial version of the ducting?
Interesting stuff. NOCTUA fans could be a good option, 120mm/140mm or even 200mm as an all round cupboard fan.
Noctua fans are pretty amazing. I use a few of them in the build. I have a 120mm Noctua fan which takes the air out of the cupboard
Nice
Thank you
I've just recently installed one of the Victron DC/DC 30A isolated. But I have hardly tried it out yet, but I've also heard that it could get really warm. I'm interested of that cooling-kit if the shipping to Sweden don't get to expensive.
I’m sure in the future if we are able to produce a kit that international orders can be arranged
@@MispronouncedAdventures Lovely!!
Great install video. I just purchased dual units. Planning my install. Where did you get the fans.
Glad you worked well for you. If you find my video about getting more power out of the Orions there is a link too the fans in the description
I would like to by the fan duct kit. Have you put together a kit and a price? I'm in the US.
What are you charging Lead acid ,Agm ,Lithium ?
nice result with cooling added,
ad a little temp sensor/rpm pc fan controller to it and the noice will act on heat dissorpation
(did the same on my caravan absorbtion cooler years ago ,got huge cooling inprovement on that too )
(I use a 18 liter dometic Cdf18 Compressor cooler behind the subaru Forester driverseat now no absorbtion cooler can beat that ,its freezing cold ..........)
Did these ended up being printed and sold? Or a link to the stl and I can print myself.
Excellent video as always Alex, however… you’ll be pleased to know that increasing 300w to 400w is actually an increase of over 33%. See, I knew you’d be happy hehe
Do two holes in the door of cabinet, behind the radiators of the Chargers so that the hot air to go outside. You still keep the heat inside. Good idea with the vents
You can’t see in video well. But the cabinet has large vent slits at the top and bottom. Plus a fan pulling air out of the cabinet
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yet, with all that you noted that DC-DC output would drop after an hour or so of driving because of heat build-up (or was that before the cooler rig? If so my bad). It really just shows the hit of thermal inefficiency to performance.
I wonder if attaching it to a sheet of metal would help spread the heat out. Also maybe the 12-24v operates cooler as 24v tends to do, must look into it
There is already a metal sheet behind each unit. I think it would pretty help a little.
I’ve never tested a 12v to 24v unit but I would guess it should run a little bit cooler
Alex, liquid cooling can transfer more heat than air. Any way that Victron heatsonk could be removed and a liquid cooler with a small water pump installed (think water cooled CPU's) ?
If not, how about finding metal tubes (like brake lines or industrial metal tubing that you could wedge in between the on board Victron heatsink fins and run water through them and then through a heat exchanger in the cabinet?
Aye. Water cooling would be way more effective, i’ve played with it before in other Applications. But for this I wanted to make a system which was not modifying the original unit and avoiding warranty.
120mm fans are what I will be using, in my RV for air cooled/with fins solar components. Preprinted ducts at a reasonable price would sell a lot, for most popular equipment! Beyond Victron also!?
I use some normal 120mm fans in the cupboards itself to remove warm air from it,
Victron B2B seems to the main ones which overheats. i thought the sterling’s and renorgy already had fans in them.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yes I think so, But I see regular solar charge controllers can also benefit from this technique. I have Rich solar/Renogy rover types with heat fins, there are many with heat fins on the back or front. My understanding is, if you are running them at/close to full rated power they will last longer run cooler and produce more power without shutting down? I will be trying it with mine?
Very nice! I expect I'll do something similar with my (single) Orion when it comes time to install my electrics. I considered it for the MPPT as well but I doubt that'll be as big a concern.
Curious as to the wiring going into the chargers' remote ports (green dongle bit) - looks like you have them chained from the left unit, to the right unit, then into the Wago connector and (presumably) out to your dashboard switch? I don't follow how you could use that one/two switch to turn one unit or both units on in that config.
My installation video covers the wiring for my units.
However the wiring at the beginning of the video for the intro is different from the wiring I did during the test phase.
The later version of the wiring means are control individual Orions and they can be turned off by a switch on the dashboard which is connected to the H remote pin as well as the fan power on each unit
Where can I purchase the 3D printer file for the fan air distribution shroud?
How about hooking up a blower fan that sucks air through the unit instead of pushing air through. And the blower will direct air outside of the van at the same time.
I think looking back at the research, I think I remember find out about sucking air across versus blowing air across head sink. I think I found there was merit and increased cooling efficiency on low fin number, large fin heatsinks to blow air past them, whilst on heatsinks , with many smaller fins sucking can be more efficient.
The cupboard itself has an additional fan which helps pull the warm air out of the whole electrics cabinet
Thanks for sharing.
It really worries me the high temp the dc 2 dc gets.
I wonder if i can connect the 12v fan on the output of the DC2DC so it turns on when charging.
Have you tried that ?
Attaching it to the output wouldn’t work, it’s would always been on, as the leisure system,
battery would power it. Which is why I added mine to a ignition live.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Just found out. Output is to the house Batts so it will be always on. Thanks for the tip and for the beautiful informative video.
I'm just about to start my van build and have watched loads of videos ect. But have never seen anyone mount their mppt / DCtodc unit spaced off the wall say 1/2 inch with spacers ? To let more air around the back or do the fins have to be close the the wall to work ??
I do you think mounting it a little bit further off the backboard if you’re just using the fins / passive cooling will help. I don’t think on the DCDC and how much they heat up during operation but it will help that much.
Definitely better than nothing
Hello I just came across your channel while searching for Victron products for a future project.
At the begining i like to thank you for this and other videos which you presented on your channel, it will take me some time to go through many of them this weekend :)
I was watching few minutes ago your previous Video about mounting the 2 Orion smart in your system.
After two months of use are you happy about the results of this twin?
Does it make much difference charging the system very fast as you described and as the product description states? I was planning to mount 1 Orion but I am tending most likely for 2 pieces.
Do you recommend this sitting further or you will make some other adjustments to It in the future other than the ventilation which sound logical once hearing you?
I wish you a safe Journey and hope we will meet once on the street.
Regards from Austria
Thank you for watching my video and I hope you find them helpful.
I love having 2 units, Game changer for the winter arctic trip and in the summer I normal only one turned on.
Any ventilation you can add the better. Be that active cooling with fan or just ventilation holes in the cupboard you mount them
@@MispronouncedAdventures I wish you all the best for your trip,
Tried scrolling through Comments, didn’t see and hope that I’m not repeating; but, are the cooling fans simply On/Off, or thermostatically controlled ?
If your Alt is putting out, say 40A, does having Two units taking that (divided) Alt output and getting more Amps in to the batteries ? Sorry, probably remedial, I just am not clear … if Alt is putting out 40A, isn’t the max that will get To the Bank 40A ?
Great vid. Subscribed
On or off. In my cases trigged by a vans ignition being on ( if the ignition is on then the engine is running and chargers can be on ). Whilst it would be easily achievable to use a temperature controlled relay to turn the fans on and off. Generally I saw it as unnecessary because the units are going to overheat regardless. might as well just have the fans on the entire time the units are on.
It’s not as simple as just what the alternator is doing as the starter battery in also in the system. Normal the used need about 32A on the into size to output 30A ( efficiency looses ) . Having two used would be 64A in and 60A ( higher output, higher input ). Having a high out alternator is important as if the draw of the units was higher than what the alternator was producing then energy will also be taken from starter battery. And you don’t want to discharge the starter.
Hope that helps.
Aye Alex, but hurry up. I'm about to install mine :-)
I recon that would a good venture, especially if you patent it.
We are definitely going to look into the next step there’s been a lot of interest
Hey! Not sure if you said this in a comment, but is the file to the ducting available anywhere? I’d like to print my own if possible!!
Yes… I’d be interested in cooling units. I’ll be at this point by July in my build. Please advise.
Q- if I’m feeding power from alternator @ 12V thru a DC 2 DC unit then into a 24V battery system… do I get 30ish amps @ 24V ?
Cheers….. Yvon.
So you would need the Victron DC 2 DC 12v | 24v 15amp. To go from a 12v alternator to 24v leisure system.
So you would get a 30a draw from the alternator and got a 15a output at 24v.
I don’t think the 24v side of the unit will get as hot, but the 12v will still so cooling will still be good
Great work. I’d definitely pay if the price was right. Perhaps $40 US for a single cooling kit.
Thank you and that the sort of price area we were thinking
Hi Alex, this is the 3rd video I've watched (found you though inductive cooling/air fryer). Is there any chance of sharing the STL for those fan ducts?
Glad you enjoyed the video. Unfortunately it’s not my STL file to give away.
@@MispronouncedAdventures just got to the end of the video, did you commercialise the ducts/cable ways in the end?
@@jasonhuxley674 no but my friend “veesventures” on instagram has
@@MispronouncedAdventuresTY I'll take a look, it might save me some time in fusion 360 ;)
A kit, absolutely.
Thank you, it might take some time to refine and produce but hopefully we will get there
Hmm.. I’d take this further.. Put in a cooling circuit and some passive rads somewhere and let airflow from the moving vehicle provide the cooling. Just a thought. Great video, great idea and execution.