well it's a lathe ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
The content of this video is a true blessing. Have an old lathe, missing gears, and more. Was making a dividing head to prepare for gear cutting. Your answer beats any other seen. Subscribed, and watching.
I think it's commendable that you have created methods and additions for only one machine tool that can emulate the operations of a shop full of various machines.
Great idea and skilfully crafted. Your work is an inspiration to me Jimmy. Thank you. If I could humbly ask one thing, to see the completed item first so each part you craft has a context. Regards, Michael
Thank you for your comment Pam, I appreciate it! Glad to hear that you find my videos interesting; I hope you receive your lathe as soon as possible so to start using it for your projects! Regards from Greece Jimmy
That's a great idea for anyone that has a lathe/mill combo . One feature that every lathe should have that none if these imports seem to have is a spindal lock for removing the chuck. Not a big deal if you have a cam lock but with a screw in chuck its a big deal. Good video.
Nice one! I guess you could make that slot from 7:20 in a J shape so instead of removing indexer for turning you could just pull it and turn a little so it stay disengaged from gear.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! Another viewer said the same, I guess that I could make a J slot (with difficulty, because I don't have a milling machine), but I didn't think it at all. Thanks again! All the best Jimmy
Thank you very much for your comment, I appreciate it! Glad that you like the text cards.Although I have read comments saying that narration is better than reading; I will agree with you, text cards gives you more time to think simply by pressing pause on the video. Thanks again sir! All the best Jimmy
Just speculating here, but people like to hear and see another, but sometimes the exposure is difficult as a creator. We have only recently started to see MrPete and written descriptions don't seem to have held back Myfordboy who has a large audience. Also, text cards and close captioning helps the ~85% of the world who does not speak English :)
You said it, very well! For me this 'exposure' it is a bit difficult, because my english are not so good, plus that my shop's space is very limited and messy most of the time. Perhaps in the future something like a playback narration (when I can afford to buy the equipment) with any needed text as well. Thanks again for your time and comment, sir! All the best Jimmy
Planning to get mini lathe and already had similar though when I realized that it would be possible to mount Dremel or something into tool head. Very nice indexing pin, but isn't the 6 degree locking angle between teeth bit limiting? Just realized that I assume it's 60t wheel as some model I planned to got had one in for chuck. Anyway I was originally thinking of maybe getting 360 decoder for chuck and then manually braking chuck someway. *edit: Just noticed that you have other wheels where it also works*
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it! Originally the indexer was designed for use with the spindle’s 40T driving gear, which limits to 7 circumferential divisions; when I saw that there were enough space for mounting a 60T gear on the spindle I proceeded on modifying it so as to fit; the 60T gear gives 10 circumferential divisions that are more than enough for my needs at the moment. If you know how to handle electronics, then a 360° decoder will be a nice mod. Cheers Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal Yeah absolutely and in the end it's all about your needs. Gotta admit that 60t gear gives vast indexing option amounts already. Plus I think your idea would be perfect to try to replicate as learning to make part. Can't wait for wallet to get bit fatter to make order for my own little lathe.
Thank you very much for your comment! First, I didn't thought it at all and second as I'm thinking it now it would be very difficult to make it since I don't have a milling machine. Cheers Jimmy
Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment! Thank you for reminding us how important is to disengage the indexer before starting any other operation on the lathe!! Cheers Jimmy
Already has one inside the gear cover. To attach the indexer I need to remove the gear cover and the microswitch gives the needed safety. Thank you for the comment! Cheers Jimmy
Hi, indexing on a lathe is a nice feature, nicely done... It's been a long time since your last video project, hope you were safe during those huge fires the happened lately.
Hey Pierre, Yes, indexing is a very nice feature, but I didn't saw it only as an upgrade for my small lathe. It helped me to learn new things and I'm very happy for that. Everything are ok for me. Unfortunately we lost many people during the fire and this could been avoided if there was a timely briefing from the authorities!!!!! Thank you my friend! Jimmy
A very nice design, very well thought out and executed. I understand why you bought the 60 tooth gear. I am curious as why you bought a spring after demonstrating you are top notch machinist / toolmaker. There are tables in "Machinery's Handbook" and other sources that give wire size, mandrel size and finished OD & ID, etc. for most compression & tension spring configurations. Not a criticism, just curious as for myself, the spring would be the easiest component to make for your indexer. Thanks.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment! I bought the spring for one reason only; I wasn't feel confident enough in conjunction with the cost of all the trial and error for making one. Now, if someone say that the cost would been low if I made my own spring; my answer is, not as low as the 15 Euros I paid for buying 10 springs that are properly hardened (it was the minimum quantity I could order). Anyway, I'm thinking the possibility of the whole spring making process as a future project. Thanks again for your comment, sir! Best wishes Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Very nice. Just as an aside, if you were to machine a 'Vee' in the blade of the tongue that engages with the gear, then that could be rotated through 90 degrees and also grip the top of the tooth as well as the valley. this would double the indexing points available on the gear. Just a thought...
Thank you very much for your comment, I really appreciate it!Another viewer mentioned exactly the same thing; he told me to search Harold Hall's site and videos for that particular mod: www.homews.co.uk/index.html watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/6efRGgTIDAQ/v-deo.html at 5:06 shows the rotating double V plunger as it used on an indexer It is really interesting; I'm thinking it as future project. Thanks again for the comment! All the best Jimmy
Hi Mark, I apologize for the late reply, but something came up and just now find the time to do it. Thanks, I really appreciate your comment my friend!! Until now this is the most useful tool I've made for my mini lathe, glad to hear that you like it! All the best Jimmy
Thanks for the great video. Great idea for a spindle lock/indexer. I did want to ask about the paint you used, it looks really great and a reasonable proxy for gold anodizing. Could you share with us what the paint that you used was?
I apologize for the late reply. Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it! I used a two parts primer suited for non ferrous metals and metallic gold spray paint (Metallic gold Art.No. 04047 made by MOTIP) Regards from Greece Jimmy
A great tool! The only thing I wouldn’t be happy about is, to unscrew it every now and than. How about getting a spring with lower tension and making a thread at the highest point to be able the lift the indexer, twist it and have it staying there. Other than a thread you could also make a groove in both sides of the outer upper part of the shell and a pivot that sticks trough the indexer aligning in that groove, so when you move up the indexer to its highest point, the pivots surpass the groove and can be rested on the upper part of the overall body - make some groves where the pivots can catch. That way instead of unscrewing the part you’d just need to pull it up to its highest position, make half turn and have the gears free. I don’t have a lathe but I’m about to purchase one and try that out. And again. Great precision and overall video
Thank you for your comment, I really appreciate it! All of those you describe as well as a J slot could been done relatively easy and accurate only if I had a milling attachment for the lathe, which unfortunately I didn't had. However, I have something in mind that will fix this; but this will be a future project. Regards Jimmy
JimmysCanal thank’s for taking your time on answering. Just had to google what a J-slot is as I’m totally new to all this. J-slot would be a great idea :D looking forward to see more videos from you and maybe making that add-on. With best regards!
Thank you for your time on watching my video! Now, since you're going to buy a lathe let me say this: if you have the space and you can afford it, buy a good size lathe. As for new videos, It will take me some time to post a new one; you see, I rearranging my shop for the new upcoming toy...a mill! Warm regards Jimmy
JimmysCanal seems like sometimes bigger is in deed better XD I was looking forward to get the Optimal D180x300 or the corresponding model in size from HBM. But it’s 1200/1400€ & that’s a lot. My plan was to spend half. So I’m still struggling a little with the decision as I don’t even know where to put it. Generally speaking I prefer to buy once and good than twice and cheap. :) thanx for the advice!
40T => 9° each, e.g. 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, etc. - the last one is at least common with interesting multipliers. going for the factors in 40 = 2 * 2 * 2 * 5 => a nice set of power of 2s and a 5-factor giving a bunch of circular equally split division options: 2x, 4x, 8x, 10x, 20x and 40x. 60T => 6° each, e.g. 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, etc. - the last one and its multipliers are for sure a commonly useful one. going for the factors in 60 = 2 * 2 * 3 * 5 => also a nice set of factors with these options for an equal circular divisional split: 2x, 4x, 6x, 10x, 12x, 15x, 20x, 30x and 60x. it would be quite possible to do some sort of a worm-gear (like the well known, much heavier, high precision turn tables can have) based attachment (and if you want it, including even a stepper motor drive and/or a scale or a digital indicator) at only a really small cost. Maybe the clamping force would need some reconsideration (add some screw lever on a slit bore for clamping your spindle down?) and also the clearance that impacts on its precision - but why not give such a variant a try?!
Très bon travail bien réalisé ! Dommage de démonter toutes les fois pour faire que du tournage ! Very good job well done ! Damage to dismount every time to make that shoot !
Thank you for your comment sir, I appreciate it! Unfortunately I must dismount it when it's not needed and this is because I couldn't think that time another design with some kind of lock for the plunger at its upper position. All the best Jimmy
Hi! Great project! My question is if you can tell me, where did you buy the protection for the tracks on the lathe ?! That black rubber thing ...! Thank you
Hi, Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! The black protection rubber (bellows) was bought from arceurotrade, here is the link: www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Machine-Bellows Its mostly used on milling machines, but it can be used on lathes as well. Cheers Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal Thank you so much Jimmy! I ran into your channel and now I'm watching it. I have the same lathe, a different manufacturer but basically the same and it helps me a lot to see how you have improved yours! Thanks again and keep working as before. There are those of us who know how to appreciate it and need it! Cheers
Thank you for your kind words Roberto, I really appreciate it! I'm glad to know that my videos are helpful to you.Although I don't have this lathe anymore (I sold it a couple months ago and bought a bigger one) I'll be happy to help you if you need informations on any of the projects - tools I've made for it. Thanks again for your comment and of course your subscription! Be well and safe Regards from Greece Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
@@JimmysCanal Thanks Jimmy a lot! A logical sequence of things, a small lathe leads to a bigger one 😉! I have to find some products to earn with a small one for a bigger one! I'm glad you're making progress. You deserve it and I follow your work that you will publish in the future! I wish you all the best! Cheers
Thank you so much Roberto, please accept my apologies for the delayed reply. Theoretically speaking it is the logical sequence of things, from a small lathe to a bigger one. But it's not apply always and can stay as it is; anyway though in my case it helped alot the fact that I had made many tools for the small lathe and managed to take a good price as well the fact that I bought the new one with a great offer because of my channel. I'll upload a video showing the new lathe once I finished the renovation of my shop - hope soon. For the moment you can see the lathe I've bought at the manufacturer's web site, here is the link: www.weissmachinery.com/bench-lathe/57290812.html I wish you to have the opportunity to buy a bigger lathe as well! Thanks again! Best wishes from Greece Dimitris
Thank you very much for your comment! Please accept my apologize for the late reply. I'm using water soluble cutting oil for lubrication of the cutting tool while turning on the lathe (mixing the oil with water gives a milky fluid). Now, near at the end of the video I'm using withe lithium grease to lubricate the moving parts of the indexer. Thanks again for the comment! All the best Jimmy
Thanks for your comment, Andy! I apologize for the delayed answer. I bought the gear from the main distributor of Optimum machines here in Greece. I think that you can ask your lathe supplier if it has in stock this gear; if not, surely he can order it for you. You can also check on ebay; but you must be careful, when ordering gears make sure to the corresponding gear module of your lathe! Best wishes Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal hi Jimmy !! I am glad that you replied ,and please don't feel sorry . Again,thanks for sharing these priceless information to strangers like me... Warmest regards, Andy
Hi Jimmy, good work. Just a minor detail, on 14:33 I notice that the movement of the spindle after inserting the plunger, it's to much. I believe if you measure it, it will be unacceptable. Is there anyway to make it for more precision…?? Have a Good time and Keep Turning.
Thank you very much!! Yes you noticed it well; I have test it in a 40mm diameter piece of steel making 40 holes 1mm in diameter and the indexer did it perfect, the reason was that my Proxxon drill-grinder doesn't has enough power (while drilling) to move (in any direction) the ten times heavier chuck. Still though, the movement is an issue but thankfully not big. Not big because the only that I need to do to fix it, is to buy a new 40T drive gear (I bought the lathe second hand and as you can understand, the drive gear has wear form usage from the previous owner and of course from me) Thanks again! Best wishes Jimmy
The nose of the plunger can't be wider because then it will not fit on the teeth. On 9:58 you can see the perfect fit of the plunger on gear (note that this, is a new gear). I bought the lathe second hand 7 years ago, for 400 Euros. All the best Jimmy
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! I applied one layer of a two part primer (especially recommended for all non-ferrous metals) and 2 layers metallic spray paint for finishing. All the best Jimmy
Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it!! First of all I need to tell you that I didn't make the heat treatment; my metal supplier has a well equiped facility for steel heat treatment. The parts were hardened with nitriding; I use free machining steel (9SMnPb36K: leaded alloy steel) for making the indexer and this type of steel accepts nitriding: a process that hardens the surface of the steel up to certain depth. As far as I know this depth is between 0.1 to 0.2mm. All the best Jimmy
Thank you, I appreciate your comment! I used water soluble cutting oil. I didn't do the heat treatment, I gave the parts to a company that specializing in steel thermal treatment; the steel was heat treated by nitriding (case-hardening). Cheers Jimmy
Thank you Charles, I appreciate your comment! If you mean the QCTP, yes I bought it from the supplier of my lathe. If you interesting for this type of tool holder (multifix) check this ebay seller: www.ebay.com/str/pewetools he has a wide selection of tool holders. All the best Jimmy
Hello sir, All my congratulations for this very neat work and the subject that should interest a lot. Why did you put only 1 bronze guide for the 7mm diameter diver? In 3.30 you use a tangential tool with a constant profile. Would you have a link for his purchase? Looking forward to an answer, cordial greetings. P.K. (French)
Je m'excuse pour la réponse tardive. Merci pour votre commentaire monsieur, je l'apprécie vraiment! La raison pour ne pas fabriquer une deuxième bague en laiton était la vis de réglage qui guide le piston. L'explication est simple, avec une bague en laiton sur la partie supérieure du corps, il n'y avait pas assez d'épaisseurs pour couper les filets pour supporter la vis de réglage afin de guider le plongeur. Maintenant et puisque le cylindre est durci, il agit comme une surface d'appui pour le piston, à condition bien sûr que les surfaces soient toujours bien graissées. Voici le lien pours le porte-outil Diamond: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/ La société a également un distributeur au Royaume-Uni: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57&Itemid=281 puisque vous vivez en France, il vous sera plus facile et plus rapide de commander à partir de là. Cordialement de la Grèce Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Bonjour Monsieur, Un grand merci pour les informations fournies et le lien pour l'outil "Diamond". Cependant vous serait-il possible de me renseigner d'avantage ? Je partage vos arguments relatifs à la fabrication du ressort, aussi je serais intéressé par les caractéristiques de ce ressort et si possible un lien pour les acheter. D'autre part j'observe en 0.38 que vous utilisez une loupe rotative avec pointeau, là aussi auriez-vous un lien pour un achat à un prix décent. De quelle manière avez-vous traité les 2 grosses pièces filetées pour obtenir cette teinte ? Enfin monsieur je suis très impressionné par votre rédaction en français, dominez-vous cette langue ou utilisez-vous un traducteur ? Si oui et dans ce cas pouvez-vous me donner son nom. Dans l'attente d'une réponse mes salutations sincères et mes remerciements anticipés; mais je tiens encore à vous féliciter en tant que personne sérieuse et appliquée et surtout disposée à aider les autres. P.K.
Bonjour Paul, Encore une fois, je m'excuse pour la réponse différée, mais je vais vous expliquer à la fin de ce commentaire. Ne le mentionne pas, ce fut un plaisir! Je ne sais pas comment vous aider davantage au sujet du porte-outil Diamond, à part que cela fonctionne pour mes besoins; Les deux avantages de base de cet outil sont les suivants: iil utilise des bits HSS et offre meulage facile aisée grâce au dispositif fourni. Pour des informations spécifiques sur cet outil, je vous suggère de contacter directement le fabricant: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_chronoforms6&view=form&Itemid=284 L'ingénierie excentrique dispose d'une chaîne UA-cam; vous pouvez regarder les vidéos du détenteur du diamant: ua-cam.com/video/iAPyWKXnVFM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/lHs0xVRwuzE/v-deo.html En ce qui concerne le ressort que j'ai utilisé, voici les dimensions: Longueur: 78mm Diamètre extérieur: 12.80mm Diamètre intérieur: 10.50mm Épaisseur du fil: 1.10 mm (durcir et trempé). Je ne peux pas vous fournir de lien pour effectuer un achat. Je l’ai commandé dans un petit atelier spécialisé dans la fabrication de ressorts personnalisés pour les industries locales et, malheureusement, ils n’ont pas de site Web. Peut-être pouvez-vous cherchez dans votre ville natale un atelier de fabricant de printemps pour donner votre commande? Maintenant, dans le cas où les dimensions ci-dessus sont acceptables pour ce que vous voulez faire et que vous ne pouvez pas trouver un magasin sur votre marché local pour passer votre commande ou peut-être que vous trouvez un fabricant de ressort mais il demande une commande minimum de 10 pièces ou plus et le coût est élevé, Je peux vous envoyer deux ressorts de rechange (le coût sera de 4 euros pour les ressorts, emballage et expédition compris entre 5 et 6 euros - selon la taille et le poids de l’enveloppe, le coût total sera de 9 à 10 euros environ. ). Si vous décidez ces que vous voulez les ressorts que j'ai en réserve,, donnez-moi votre email pour arranger ça. Pour la loupe que vous avez dite (punch central optique), je l’ai achetée à www.chronos.ltd.uk/ la marque est Soba: www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/optical-centrepunch-2/ mais je ne sais pas s'ils ont encore cette marque, ni ce qu’ils facturent pour l’exporter en France; une alternative est de rechercher sur eBay: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Soba+optical+center+punch&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=optical+center+punch faites défiler la page pour voir les options et les prix. Maintenant, en ce qui concerne les 2 grandes parties filetées (ces deux sont le corps de l'indexeur), ont été cémentés par nitruration et cette teinte est le résultat du processus de durcissement (je pouvais polir les surfaces, mais j'ai choisi de ne pas le faire pour l'apparence fins). Malheureusement, je ne connais pas le français. mais je connais bien l’anglais, c’est pourquoi j’utilise la traduction Google avec précaution. Je vérifie et revérifie les mots particulièrement difficiles que la traduction Google ne donne pas un sens très clair et cela prend beaucoup de temps, c’est pourquoi mes réponses sont retardées! UA-cam est une formidable communauté d’échange d’idées et de connaissances. Outre que je fais partie de cette communauté en tant que spectateur régulier, je suis également créateur de contenu. je suis donc obligé de fournir des informations pour le contenu de mes vidéos, bien sûr, dans la limite de mes connaissances. Merci encore pour votre commentaire, monsieur, je l'apprécie vraiment! Meilleurs vœux Dimitris
Reply to JimmysCanal JimmysCanal Hello Sir, Thank you again for your availability and your complete answers. For the tool "Diamand" you gave me all the necessary information, thank you. For "optical central punch" the first link still sells, so thank you again. For the finishing of the two parts of the body of the indexer, I am already wondering about the need to nitride these parts that are very little used. Now everyone does what he wants and can. As for the appearance of the pieces it could be obtained by cold phosphating by soaking. This is only a report and especially not a criticism. Finally for the springs, your proposal interests me if it can succeed. You ask me for my email; I do not want to spread it in the sight of everyone, so I propose to contact you through "Myartsandcraftschest" is possible? Bonne réception de ce mail en espérant qu'il ne soit pas trop déformé par Google Translate. Salutations respectueuses. P.K.
Salut Paul, Ne le mentionnez pas, ce fut un plaisir! Le durcissement des deux pièces était important car il augmente la résistance à l’usure éventuelle du ressort durci, ainsi que la résistance à l’oxydation de surface avec un aspect similaire à celui du phosphatage (Parkerisation), de plus le durcissement est plus économique (7 euros) que la phosphatation. Oui, vous pouvez m'envoyer votre email via "Myartsandcraftschest" ou vous pouvez trouver mon email pour me contacter, ici: ua-cam.com/users/JimmysCanalabout?disable_polymer=1 peu importe ce que vous choisissez, ça va avec moi. Google Translate fait un travail parfait, votre message est très compréhensible! Nous parlerons bientôt. Meilleures salutations Dimitris
Very good job sir! Thank you for sharing it with us! But, take care not to switch the late when indexer is in position... :-) Maybe you can add some part to twist it ex. 90 degrees and pull it up to fix it in the upper position when not in use so it can stay all the time on lathe.
Thank you for your comment, sir! It is always a pleasure for me, to sharing my projects with all of you! Some other viewers said the same with you and more particular a J slot. Unfortunately, at the moment it is a bit difficult because I don't have a mill; or perhaps if I find out another way of making it. Thanks again! Regards from Greece Jimmy
dear sir; for now, there is a very simple way to lock the gear point in its upper position. Take a piece of plastic tube of 16 mm length, that has a sloppy fit around the pin (the plunger). Saw out - in vertcal direction of the tube - just enough material so that the tube will "click" around the pin. Put the tube between wheel and barrel so the pin is effectively locked in it's upper position. It is safe, because it will take some force to remove the tube from the pin.
Thank you for your comment sir! It can be done what you said; whatever the tube material may be (steel, plastic) the upper shoulder of the tube needs to have a small detent to hold the pin securely in its possition as well as the slot must be a bit oversized from the diameter of the plunger for been easy to removed by hand when needed.
Sorry for this late reaction; the tube HAS to be plastic and also rather thinwalled, so it is flexible. The slot certainly is narrower than the diameter of the pin and will snap around it. Needs a bit of testing to find the right size of the slot.
Like you sir, I used files and the Proxxon grinder for cutting slots (mostly on soft metals). Until now, this is the most useful tool I've made for my mini lathe! Thank you very much for your comment! My best wishes for 2019 Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
nice video. but one thing: I think it would be good if you show the finished indexer right at the start of the video. Then everyone knows exactly what you are doing during the video.
Thank you for the comment! In some of my videos, I show from the start what I have made, how it works, ect. For this one, I decided to show the finished tool at the end as well as how it works; I thought that it would be more interesting? Thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind! Thanks again for the comment, sir! All the best Jimmy
Thank you for your comment sir, I appreciate it! I have an Optimum lathe, the model is D180x300; a few years back Optimum Machines upgrade the lathe a bit and renamed the model as TU 2004V. You can see the specs on the following pdf (page 41): dk.tools/pdf/OPTIMUM/opti%20lathe.pdf Since you are searching to buy a lathe be aware that Optimum are a bit overpriced for what they are; if you look on other brands perhaps you can find a bigger machine at the same price of the Optimum. Happy Easter! Regards from Greece Dimitris P.
beautiful build. you know you can make springs on the lathe :)..drill press as an arbor press...brilliant...broaching on a lathe...give me my smelling salts
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment! Unfortunately, If you haven't an arbor press you need to improvise; occasinaly I use the drill press, but only for for small parts like the one you saw in the video. To be honest, I thought that I could made the spring on the lathe; but because of lack on knowledge of the subject I decided to order it. Thanks again for your comment, sir! All the best Jimmy
@@minskmade Optimum is the brand of the lathe: www.optimum-machines.com/ D180x300 is the model. But nowdays come as OPTIturn TU 2004V: www.stuermer-machines.com/brands/optimum/category/product/optimum-lathes-conventional/optiturn-tu-2004v-3420310/ It's well made, but a bit pricey though for its size. Unfortunately, in Europe everything is overpriced:( All the best Jimmy
Hi Jimmy, nice work as usual but we expect nothing less from you. Do you know the trick to double the divisions from a gear? If not, if you put a groove in the flat part of the indexer it can then sit over the gear tooth as well as between. admittedly you would have to modify things a bit but might be worth it. ATB from sunny England c
Hi Chris, Thank you very much for the comment! Believe it or not, I burned my brain while working on the project trying to figure out on how I could made these "half divisions" you just described! Unfortunately I couldn't find any solution to make something accurate with that particular design of indexer. Two were the reasons, first the tiny space (height-distance) between the headstock and the spindle and second I didn't had (still don't have) a milling machine for making a more complex in shape and accurate body-housing for the indexer incorporating something like a sliding fast action double tip. Perhaps the only thing that posibly can be done now is small (V) female die to fit on the nose of the indexer, but only to use it with the 40T gear. Anyway, I will see? Thanks again for the comment! All the best from warm and sunny Greece Jimmy
Well done! You can have a look at Harold Hall's videos for the "trick". He shows it in a couple of them. Height distance doesn't have anything to do here, your design is more than fine for it. All you have to do is to broach a groove in the form of a teeth, perpendicular to the one you have on your tip, as Chris says above, and then chamfer the corners a bit to adjust. It should look like a W when viewed from the front, and like V like now, when seen from a side. If properly done, the groove part grips much better than the tip you made, as it will lock three tooth at once. You're gonna have to remove the dog you made, though. If you want rotational locking, perhaps the simplest would be to integrate a nipple facing down on one of the holes on the handler-wheel you made, and then mill or angle-grind two grooves 90 degrees apart on the top of the holder. That would make it easy to lock in any of the positions when releasing the handler-wheel. All the best!
Hi Eduardo, I apologize for the late reply. I saw Harold's videos and are amazing; Thank you for that!! And I think that the solution is simple; I can make a new plunger and with the use of the indexer I can angle-grind the two grooves easily on one tip 90 degrees apart. Then easily I can rotate the plunger if unscrew a bit the knob! Thank you very much, I really appreciate your help!!! Warm regards from Greece Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Thank you very much for the comment! Happy to share as always and even happier to hear that you like so much that you decide to copy it. Thanks again sir! All the best Jimmy
I apologize for the late reply. Yes it can be done with such a tool, but only if you make light passes. Thank you very much for the comment! All the best Jimmy
Exactly as you said it - light passes and slow feed! Thank you very much, I really appreciate that you like my videos! Be well and safe my friend Regards from Greece Jimmy
Thank you for the comment! The indexer depending on the gear that's attached on the spindle (40 or 60 tooth), gives specific divisions. Now when a part needs to have a pattern of holes or slots at the face or at the circumference of it, with the indexer it can be possible; to do this I use a small drill-grinder with unfortunately limited capacity of endmills (up to 3.2mm). Now if the size of the needed hole-s must be larger than 3.2mm, its easy the use my bench drill after I finished the part on the lathe. In the case of a slot, then the width is limited to 3.2mm. To see exactly what the indexer does, take a look at 19:02 as I'm drilling a series of holes for the knob of the indexer's plunger. Thanks again. All the best Jimmy
Hi, I'm not an expert on motors, but the first thing I would look would been if the carbon brushes of the motor need replacement. Now, if you put new carbon brushes and the motor still doesn't work, then you should ask a motor technician. All the best Jimmy
Nice project Jimmy, really enjoyed your video. May I ask about the 4-jaw chuck seen in the video? Is it an item that fits your lathe right from the manufacturer or you had to modify it? (I have the same lathe as you and thinking about purchasing a 4-jaw chuck).
Thank you Jan, I really appreciate your comment! No, I didn't modify it. I just bought a back plate and turned its front flange to fit tight on the chuck. But let me explain a bit better; the spindle has three holes, so it can accept chucks with three studs only. As far as I know, all 100mm 3-jaw chucks have an arrangement of 3 studs for clamping on a spindle and the only that can be vary* is the diameter of the back shallow bore-where the chuck connects with the spindle. *In most Chinese chucks the diameter of the back bore is 72mm and the depth is 6.5mm. On the other hand all 100mm 4-jaw chucks have an arrangement of 4 studs for clamping and that means that these chucks needs a back plate with an arrangement of 4 holes for bolts to clamp the chuck and with another arrangement for three stud for clamping on the spindle. Now, all back plates needs a bit of turning on the front flange to fit tight on the chuck; here is an example: if you have a 100mm chuck with 72mm back bore, the front flange of the back plate needs to turned between 72.011mm and 72.03mm for tight fit. Although the majority of 4-jaw chucks have the 4 stud arrangement, it is possible to find a 4-jaw chuck with 3 studs (I say that, because I saw one in a machinery supply shop 3 years ago). I hope this will help you a little. Thank you once again for the comment! All the best Jimmy
Both the building and the video are made very good... Top 👍👍👍 This Optimum isnt the classical Minilathe as a Sieg Ltd. Clone its one step above but still fits the same class...
Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it!! Yes, I think that is a sort of an intermediate class between the Sieg models C2, C3 and the heavier C4 model: www.siegind.com/lathe-machine.html All the best Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal that's exakt the one i should have bought when beginning but i took a C3 Clon with nylon gears 😁 i changed them all into steel changed the roller into taper bearings and improved the saddle clamping mechanism while doing that i bought a Optimum Bf16 Mill and i saw yours and realized that this one would have had the most things already okay which i improved.. Its more expensive but if you count the steel gears etc etc you pay nearly the same your work not included 😎😎😎 after 2 years i sold mine and bought a Schreiner D290V with Camlock D1 4, power feed on two directions, 1,5kw, 265kg, Sino DRO with glas scales etc brandnew and am very satisfied since in the USA they sell it as PM 1127 Vlfb from Precision Matthew's.. Its not the most expensive lathe in his class but has all important features to me like Camlock Chuck in 1min you've changed the chuck wether to take a better for the use or to finish later if you don't open it you don't lose precision... I have about 6 chucks now 2 x 3 Jaw, 4 Jaw central and individual clamping, C5 Chuck etc. and change them all the time its like with the QCTP to change a holder very easy and fast but accurate... Well done video👍
Thanks for your reply! Both milling machine and lathe are great, especialy the lathe (I saw some pictures). Although the BF16 is a bit small it can make a lot of things, now as for the D290V lathe the only that I can say is that it has all the needed features to make your 'machining life' easy!! Believe me, your lathe makes me drool (I wish to had one similar and a BF 20 milling machine); Enjoy your great machines! Thanks again for your great comment, my friend!! Warm regards from Greece Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal i ordered the Schreiner 7045 Mill.. The one with gear transmission not Vario cause it has more than enough different speeds but is more robust than the Vario and the price is okay.. 355kg will be a little challenge bringing into my shop but in two parts head and rest it should go... Can't wait when he comes.. The Bf16 i transform into CNC because that gives me so much possibilities of making parts that can't be done conventional or only very hard... So have lots of projects in the next time.. That's how i like it 😎😎😎 wish you all the best... 👍
I apologize for the late reply. The Schreiner 7045 Mill is identical with the Optimum MB4; yeah is heavy enough and if you make a good heavy base this machine will be capable to take deep cuts. With two milling machines and with a fairly good size lathe you can make almost everything- I say almost because you need a shaper and a surface grinder (which I wish you to have them the sonest possible) for having a complete machine shop!!! Enjoy your machines and all of your new projects; take care, my friend! All the best Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Merci pour ton commentaire, je l'apprécie! Si vous voulez acheter un mini-tour, assurez-vous d'abord que le tour que vous choisirez d'acheter sera capable de faire ce dont vous aurez besoin. Par rapport aux autres mini tours, les machines Optimum sont plus chères, consultez cette marque: www.weissmachinery.com/lathe-machine/ ainsi que d'autres marques que vous pouvez trouver sur votre marché local. Cordialement de la Grèce Jimmy
Je suis désolé, j'ai oublié de dire que vous ne pouvez pas acheter directement sur le site Web du fabricant; ce lien est uniquement pour voir et trouver le tour adapté à vos besoins. Weiss approvisionne de nombreuses marques en mettant leur logo dans les machines. Vous pouvez les contacter ici: www.weissmachinery.com/contact.html pour demander les coordonnées du distributeur principal de machines Weiss dans votre pays. Alternativement, vous pouvez rechercher un tour adapté dans des sites comme www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/Lathes.html (je pense qu'Amadeal représente les machines Weiss au Royaume-Uni; si vous vérifiez les numéros de modèle dans Amadeal, vous verrez que ce sont similaire avec Weiss). www.axminster.co.uk/machinery/lathes/engineering-lathes www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes Bonne chance Jimmy
Salut, J'ai acheté le pignons 5 euros du fournisseur principal ici en Grèce: dk.tools/ C'est le principal fournisseur en France: www.optimachines.com/ J'espère que ceci vous aidera. Meilleures salutations Jimmy
Hi, I apologize for the late reply. The indexer (is a simplified version of the dividing head) is commonly used on milling machines for drilling holes or milling slots on specific angles. This perticular indexer is used in conjunction with the drive gear of lathe's spindle, a 40 toothed gear as well as it can be interchanged with a 60 toothed gear, giving specific divisions of the number 40 and 60. All the best Jimmy
Hi, If want to make small parts and tools, yes of course. Optimum machines have good reputation on the market, plus the availability of spare parts that the manufacturer stock in Germany. All the best Jimmy
I haven't make something to hold the plunger up; based on the design of the indexer, the plunger is always preloaded downwards. So, when the indexer is set on the headstock the plunger is engaged in the driving gear; meaning that when there is no need for dividing, the indexer must removed from the headstock. Cheers Jimmy
Hi, Thanks for the comment! Good thought, it can be done; but to make this the upper barrel must redesigned so as to have a horizontal slot that will intersect at the top end of the vertical. Unfortunately to do this I need to have a mill, which I haven't! Thanks again. All the best Jimmy
Yes, that would been a nice addition! Unfortunately I can't add this feature because this tool it's been sold with the lathe 2 years ago. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it! All the best Jimmy
well it's a lathe ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Thank you, I'm happy that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
Thanks Jimmy, for your contributions, Greetings.
Antonio
Be well, Antonio!
Regards
Jimmy
The content of this video is a true blessing. Have an old lathe, missing gears, and more. Was making a dividing head to prepare for gear cutting. Your answer beats any other seen. Subscribed, and watching.
Thank you sir! I'm happy to hear that my video may be some kind of help for your project.
Warm regards
Jimmy
I admire the quality of work you do on a lathe that’s very hard to do good quality work on.
Thank you so much for acknowledging my efforts sir! This really means a lot to me!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
I think it's commendable that you have created methods and additions for only one machine tool that can emulate the operations of a shop full of various machines.
Thank you very much sir, your words honors me!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal It's my pleasure. I have been a machinist my whole adult life (about 60 years) and I know versatility when I see it. Best of luck.
Thank you sir! The words of an experienced machinist like you, helps me to be better!
Best wishes
Jimmy
Great idea and skilfully crafted. Your work is an inspiration to me Jimmy. Thank you.
If I could humbly ask one thing, to see the completed item first so each part you craft has a context. Regards, Michael
Thank you Michael, I really appreciate your comment!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
Thanks Jimmy, I’ve ordered a mini lathe and will continue watching your videos as I learn to use it.
Thank you for your comment Pam, I appreciate it! Glad to hear that you find my videos interesting; I hope you receive your lathe as soon as possible so to start using it for your projects!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
True engineer at work ,very good explanation and work done congratulations !!!!
Glad to hear that you like it; I really appreciate your time to watch and your comment!
Thank you sir!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
That's a great idea for anyone that has a lathe/mill combo . One feature that every lathe should have that none if these imports seem to have is a spindal lock for removing the chuck. Not a big deal if you have a cam lock but with a screw in chuck its a big deal. Good video.
Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it! My apologies for the delayed answer.
All the best
Jimmy
Nice one! I guess you could make that slot from 7:20 in a J shape so instead of removing indexer for turning you could just pull it and turn a little so it stay disengaged from gear.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! Another viewer said the same, I guess that I could make a J slot (with difficulty, because I don't have a milling machine), but I didn't think it at all. Thanks again!
All the best
Jimmy
JimmysCanal couldn’t you just have the carriage in place while rotating the headstock ?
SMG safety notch?
Clever design, and a really nice attractive final device. 👍🙂
Thank you very much, I appreciate that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
A true master, beautiful work.
Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment!
All the best
Jimmy
Very nice craftsmanship. I like the text cards, they give me more time to think about what you are saying. Best wishes
Thank you very much for your comment, I appreciate it! Glad that you like the text cards.Although I have read comments saying that narration is better than reading; I will agree with you, text cards gives you more time to think simply by pressing pause on the video. Thanks again sir!
All the best
Jimmy
Just speculating here, but people like to hear and see another, but sometimes the exposure is difficult as a creator. We have only recently started to see MrPete and written descriptions don't seem to have held back Myfordboy who has a large audience. Also, text cards and close captioning helps the ~85% of the world who does not speak English :)
You said it, very well! For me this 'exposure' it is a bit difficult, because my english are not so good, plus that my shop's space is very limited and messy most of the time. Perhaps in the future something like a playback narration (when I can afford to buy the equipment) with any needed text as well. Thanks again for your time and comment, sir!
All the best
Jimmy
Good to see that You are back Jimmy! Another masterpiece!
Thank you very much, glad that you like it! Take care, my friend!
Regards from warm and sunny Greece
Jimmy
You sir are a very good machinist.
Thank you very much, I appreciate your kind words! Thank you sir!
Regards from Greece
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Very nice job excellent machining very good idea only need some sort of way to measure how many degrees you rotated it without counting each tooth
Wow, another professional performance. Well done Jimmy!
Thank you very much Milan, I really appreciate your comment!
All the best
Jimmy
That was Beautyfull, so well made, Thankyou.
Thank you very much, happy to know that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
brilliant job and another great accessory
Barry
Australia
Thank you very much, Barry!!
Warm regards from Greece
Jimmy
Planning to get mini lathe and already had similar though when I realized that it would be possible to mount Dremel or something into tool head. Very nice indexing pin, but isn't the 6 degree locking angle between teeth bit limiting? Just realized that I assume it's 60t wheel as some model I planned to got had one in for chuck. Anyway I was originally thinking of maybe getting 360 decoder for chuck and then manually braking chuck someway. *edit: Just noticed that you have other wheels where it also works*
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
Originally the indexer was designed for use with the spindle’s 40T driving gear, which limits to 7 circumferential divisions; when I saw that there were enough space for mounting a 60T gear on the spindle I proceeded on modifying it so as to fit; the 60T gear gives 10 circumferential divisions that are more than enough for my needs at the moment.
If you know how to handle electronics, then a 360° decoder will be a nice mod.
Cheers
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal Yeah absolutely and in the end it's all about your needs. Gotta admit that 60t gear gives vast indexing option amounts already. Plus I think your idea would be perfect to try to replicate as learning to make part. Can't wait for wallet to get bit fatter to make order for my own little lathe.
I think that it will be a nice project to do, plus it will be a very useful tool to have for your lathe.
All the best
Jimmy
Bravo Sir. You are a true perfectionist.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment!
Warm regards from sunny Greece
Jimmy
Excellent video Jimmy, thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your comment Tim, I appreciate it! Glad to share as always.
Best wishes
Jimmy
Nice work . When making the grub screw slot why not turn it and make a J slot to hold the gear point out .
Thank you very much for your comment! First, I didn't thought it at all and second as I'm thinking it now it would be very difficult to make it since I don't have a milling machine.
Cheers
Jimmy
Nice concept and part. Just don't forget to disengage before hitting the start button!
Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment! Thank you for reminding us how important is to disengage the indexer before starting any other operation on the lathe!!
Cheers
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal what about a microswitch as a safety?
Already has one inside the gear cover. To attach the indexer I need to remove the gear cover and the microswitch gives the needed safety.
Thank you for the comment!
Cheers
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal Ah yes, you must mean the microswitch from the chuck plastic cover.
No, I mean the microswitch that's inside the gear cover.
Cheers
Jimmy
Hi, indexing on a lathe is a nice feature, nicely done...
It's been a long time since your last video project, hope you were safe during those huge fires the happened lately.
Hey Pierre,
Yes, indexing is a very nice feature, but I didn't saw it only as an upgrade for my small lathe. It helped me to learn new things and I'm very happy for that.
Everything are ok for me. Unfortunately we lost many people during the fire and this could been avoided if there was a timely briefing from the authorities!!!!!
Thank you my friend!
Jimmy
Clever use of the drill press as an arbor press
Thank you! It works ok with small parts, however though this operation wear out the quill!
All the best
Jimmy
Great piece of engineering.
Thank you very much!!
All the best
Jimmy
A very nice design, very well thought out and executed. I understand why you bought the 60 tooth gear. I am curious as why you bought a spring after demonstrating you are top notch machinist / toolmaker. There are tables in "Machinery's Handbook" and other sources that give wire size, mandrel size and finished OD & ID, etc. for most compression & tension spring configurations. Not a criticism, just curious as for myself, the spring would be the easiest component to make for your indexer. Thanks.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment! I bought the spring for one reason only; I wasn't feel confident enough in conjunction with the cost of all the trial and error for making one. Now, if someone say that the cost would been low if I made my own spring; my answer is, not as low as the 15 Euros I paid for buying 10 springs that are properly hardened (it was the minimum quantity I could order).
Anyway, I'm thinking the possibility of the whole spring making process as a future project.
Thanks again for your comment, sir!
Best wishes
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Very nice. Just as an aside, if you were to machine a 'Vee' in the blade of the tongue that engages with the gear, then that could be rotated through 90 degrees and also grip the top of the tooth as well as the valley. this would double the indexing points available on the gear. Just a thought...
Thank you very much for your comment, I really appreciate it!Another viewer mentioned exactly the same thing; he told me to search Harold Hall's site and videos for that particular mod: www.homews.co.uk/index.html
watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/6efRGgTIDAQ/v-deo.html at 5:06 shows the rotating double V plunger as it used on an indexer
It is really interesting; I'm thinking it as future project. Thanks again for the comment!
All the best
Jimmy
JimmysCanal Thank you, for posting your work. And good luck with the mod.
Thanks for your information, very important for me. God Bless You and your channel
It was my pleasure, sir! God bless you too.
Best regards
Jimmy
Perfectly, Excellent video clip, thanks
Thank you very much, I appreciate that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
Jimmy what a wonderful job You did. Absolutely love it. Great job my friend 👍👍👍👍
Hi Mark,
I apologize for the late reply, but something came up and just now find the time to do it. Thanks, I really appreciate your comment my friend!! Until now this is the most useful tool I've made for my mini lathe, glad to hear that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
Thanks for the great video. Great idea for a spindle lock/indexer. I did want to ask about the paint you used, it looks really great and a reasonable proxy for gold anodizing. Could you share with us what the paint that you used was?
I apologize for the late reply. Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it! I used a two parts primer suited for non ferrous metals and metallic gold spray paint (Metallic gold Art.No. 04047 made by MOTIP)
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
Lovely job mate 👌
Thank you very much!!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
A great tool! The only thing I wouldn’t be happy about is, to unscrew it every now and than. How about getting a spring with lower tension and making a thread at the highest point to be able the lift the indexer, twist it and have it staying there. Other than a thread you could also make a groove in both sides of the outer upper part of the shell and a pivot that sticks trough the indexer aligning in that groove, so when you move up the indexer to its highest point, the pivots surpass the groove and can be rested on the upper part of the overall body - make some groves where the pivots can catch.
That way instead of unscrewing the part you’d just need to pull it up to its highest position, make half turn and have the gears free.
I don’t have a lathe but I’m about to purchase one and try that out. And again. Great precision and overall video
Thank you for your comment, I really appreciate it!
All of those you describe as well as a J slot could been done relatively easy and accurate only if I had a milling attachment for the lathe, which unfortunately I didn't had.
However, I have something in mind that will fix this; but this will be a future project.
Regards
Jimmy
JimmysCanal thank’s for taking your time on answering. Just had to google what a J-slot is as I’m totally new to all this. J-slot would be a great idea :D looking forward to see more videos from you and maybe making that add-on. With best regards!
Thank you for your time on watching my video!
Now, since you're going to buy a lathe let me say this: if you have the space and you can afford it, buy a good size lathe.
As for new videos, It will take me some time to post a new one; you see, I rearranging my shop for the new upcoming toy...a mill!
Warm regards
Jimmy
JimmysCanal seems like sometimes bigger is in deed better XD I was looking forward to get the Optimal D180x300 or the corresponding model in size from HBM. But it’s 1200/1400€ & that’s a lot. My plan was to spend half. So I’m still struggling a little with the decision as I don’t even know where to put it. Generally speaking I prefer to buy once and good than twice and cheap. :) thanx for the advice!
I saw the HBM lathes; their prices are better from Optimum! Anyway, I hope you find the lathe you want, in affordable price!
Jimmy
Beautiful work - as always.
Thank you very much, glad that you like it!!
Warm regards from Greece
Jimmy
Very nice work. I need one
Thank you very much, I appreciate the comment!
All the best
Jimmy
Awesome idea. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your comment, I appreciate it!
All the best
Jimmy
40T => 9° each,
e.g. 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, etc. - the last one is at least common with interesting multipliers.
going for the factors in 40 = 2 * 2 * 2 * 5 => a nice set of power of 2s and a 5-factor giving a bunch of circular equally split division options: 2x, 4x, 8x, 10x, 20x and 40x.
60T => 6° each,
e.g. 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, etc. - the last one and its multipliers are for sure a commonly useful one.
going for the factors in 60 = 2 * 2 * 3 * 5 => also a nice set of factors with these options for an equal circular divisional split: 2x, 4x, 6x, 10x, 12x, 15x, 20x, 30x and 60x.
it would be quite possible to do some sort of a worm-gear (like the well known, much heavier, high precision turn tables can have) based attachment (and if you want it, including even a stepper motor drive and/or a scale or a digital indicator) at only a really small cost.
Maybe the clamping force would need some reconsideration (add some screw lever on a slit bore for clamping your spindle down?) and also the clearance that impacts on its precision - but why not give such a variant a try?!
Super!
Thank you very much, glad that you like it!
Best wishes for the New Year!
Jimmy
Nice concept.
Next time we could mill the slot on the plunger from I to L shape.
Thank you very much! Yes, an L shape slot would be the best!
All the best
Jimmy
very useful and handsome. health to your hands, congratulations. I also have the optimum 180x300 vario machine.I think to do it the way you do
Thank you very much for the comment Aytaç, I really appreciate it!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
Très bon travail bien réalisé !
Dommage de démonter toutes les fois pour faire que du tournage !
Very good job well done !
Damage to dismount every time to make that shoot !
Thank you for your comment sir, I appreciate it! Unfortunately I must dismount it when it's not needed and this is because I couldn't think that time another design with some kind of lock for the plunger at its upper position.
All the best
Jimmy
Hi! Great project! My question is if you can tell me, where did you buy the protection for the tracks on the lathe ?! That black rubber thing ...! Thank you
Hi,
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! The black protection rubber (bellows) was bought from arceurotrade, here is the link: www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Machine-Bellows
Its mostly used on milling machines, but it can be used on lathes as well.
Cheers
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal Thank you so much Jimmy! I ran into your channel and now I'm watching it. I have the same lathe, a different manufacturer but basically the same and it helps me a lot to see how you have improved yours! Thanks again and keep working as before. There are those of us who know how to appreciate it and need it! Cheers
Thank you for your kind words Roberto, I really appreciate it! I'm glad to know that my videos are helpful to you.Although I don't have this lathe anymore (I sold it a couple months ago and bought a bigger one) I'll be happy to help you if you need informations on any of the projects - tools I've made for it. Thanks again for your comment and of course your subscription!
Be well and safe
Regards from Greece
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
@@JimmysCanal Thanks Jimmy a lot! A logical sequence of things, a small lathe leads to a bigger one 😉! I have to find some products to earn with a small one for a bigger one! I'm glad you're making progress. You deserve it and I follow your work that you will publish in the future! I wish you all the best! Cheers
Thank you so much Roberto, please accept my apologies for the delayed reply. Theoretically speaking it is the logical sequence of things, from a small lathe to a bigger one. But it's not apply always and can stay as it is; anyway though in my case it helped alot the fact that I had made many tools for the small lathe and managed to take a good price as well the fact that I bought the new one with a great offer because of my channel.
I'll upload a video showing the new lathe once I finished the renovation of my shop - hope soon. For the moment you can see the lathe I've bought at the manufacturer's web site, here is the link: www.weissmachinery.com/bench-lathe/57290812.html
I wish you to have the opportunity to buy a bigger lathe as well! Thanks again!
Best wishes from Greece
Dimitris
How do you know what position it is in? Could a dial be added with an indicator? Maybe in degrees or something?
Très bon travail ! Bravo !
.
Very good work ! Bravo!
Thank you very much, George! My best wishes for the New Year!
Jimmy
Merci beaucoup ! Bonne année à toi aussi !
Excellent job... I have to admit that when I saw the knob at the end my first thought was a revolver ;)
Thanks Yann, I appreciate your comment! Yes, it seems like a revolver isn't it?
Cheers
Jimmy
Good to see you back. And out standing work as always!
Glad to hear you too! Thank you very much!
Warm regards from Greece
Jimmy
great work, may I ask you, what is white powder like stuff ? oil,chalk ? for what pupose ? thank you.
Thank you very much for your comment! Please accept my apologize for the late reply.
I'm using water soluble cutting oil for lubrication of the cutting tool while turning on the lathe (mixing the oil with water gives a milky fluid). Now, near at the end of the video I'm using withe lithium grease to lubricate the moving parts of the indexer. Thanks again for the comment!
All the best
Jimmy
Hi Sir,nice video tutorial,however,i wonder,where can i buy that gear from the sealed bag?warm regards,,,andy
Thanks for your comment, Andy! I apologize for the delayed answer.
I bought the gear from the main distributor of Optimum machines here in Greece. I think that you can ask your lathe supplier if it has in stock this gear; if not, surely he can order it for you. You can also check on ebay; but you must be careful, when ordering gears make sure to the corresponding gear module of your lathe!
Best wishes
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal hi Jimmy !! I am glad that you replied ,and please don't feel sorry . Again,thanks for sharing these priceless information to strangers like me...
Warmest regards,
Andy
Hi Jimmy, good work.
Just a minor detail, on 14:33 I notice that the movement of the spindle after inserting the plunger, it's to much. I believe if you measure it, it will be unacceptable. Is there anyway to make it for more precision…??
Have a Good time and Keep Turning.
Thank you very much!! Yes you noticed it well; I have test it in a 40mm diameter piece of steel making 40 holes 1mm in diameter and the indexer did it perfect, the reason was that my Proxxon drill-grinder doesn't has enough power (while drilling) to move (in any direction) the ten times heavier chuck. Still though, the movement is an issue but thankfully not big. Not big because the only that I need to do to fix it, is to buy a new 40T drive gear (I bought the lathe second hand and as you can understand, the drive gear has wear form usage from the previous owner and of course from me)
Thanks again!
Best wishes
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal How about making the plunger noose more wide so will fit stiffest...? BTW how much you got this mini lathe....
The nose of the plunger can't be wider because then it will not fit on the teeth. On 9:58 you can see the perfect fit of the plunger on gear (note that this, is a new gear).
I bought the lathe second hand 7 years ago, for 400 Euros.
All the best
Jimmy
I like the way and precision you work.
Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment!
All the best
Jimmy
Very well done!
Thank you very much, I appreciate that you like it!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
A joy to watch. Thank you.
Thank you very much, glad that you like it!!
Cheers
Jimmy
Eu não sabia quase nada amigo desse Torno pretendo comprar um desse Torno grande abraço amigo fique com Deus👍
Obrigado pelo comentário, eu realmente aprecio isso! Desejo que você tenha em breve o torno que deseja.
Saudações da Grécia
Jimmy
Great job. I really don't understand the 25 dislikes. Well done.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment sir!
Best wishes
Jimmy
Very nice what was the paint you used the nob looks like you anodised it cheers.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! I applied one layer of a two part primer (especially recommended for all non-ferrous metals) and 2 layers metallic spray paint for finishing.
All the best
Jimmy
Impressive!
Thank you very much, I appreciate that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
Hello Jimmy,
Appreciate your jewellery job, always full of true studies.
How do you proceed for heat treatment of these little pieces ?
Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it!!
First of all I need to tell you that I didn't make the heat treatment; my metal supplier has a well equiped facility for steel heat treatment.
The parts were hardened with nitriding; I use free machining steel (9SMnPb36K: leaded alloy steel) for making the indexer and this type of steel accepts nitriding: a process that hardens the surface of the steel up to certain depth. As far as I know this depth is between 0.1 to 0.2mm.
All the best
Jimmy
Thanks for your explanations. Enjoy !
It's my pleasure sir!!
All the best
Jimmy
Молодец, отличная работа! Классно получилось! Спасибо за видео!!!
Большое спасибо за ваш комментарий, я ценю это! Рад поделиться со всеми вами моей работой!
Привет из Греции
Джимми
@@JimmysCanal Спасибо )))
Looks great. What are you using for the cutting fluid and how did you heat treat the steel> Thanks, Greg
Thank you, I appreciate your comment! I used water soluble cutting oil. I didn't do the heat treatment, I gave the parts to a company that specializing in steel thermal treatment; the steel was heat treated by nitriding (case-hardening).
Cheers
Jimmy
Thanks Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal
Which brand of cutting oil was it?
It's called SKS: www.sks.gr/shop/el/82/45-sapounelaio.html I bought it from a local machining supply shop (in Greece).
Cheers
Jimmy
Thank you Gregory!!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
Excelente, felicitaciones desde Argentina!!!!
Muchas gracias señor, me alegro de que le guste!!
Saludos desde Grecia
Jimmy
As usual...AMAZIGN!
Thank you Rodrigo, I really appreciate your comment!!
All the best
Jimmy
Really neat!
Thank you very much!
All the best
Jimmy
nice work
Thank you very much!
All the best
Jimmy
Very impressive work.
Thank you very much, I appreciate that you like it!
Cheers
Jimmy
Great video. Did make that rotary tool holder or buy it thanks Charles
Thank you Charles, I appreciate your comment!
If you mean the QCTP, yes I bought it from the supplier of my lathe. If you interesting for this type of tool holder (multifix) check this ebay seller: www.ebay.com/str/pewetools he has a wide selection of tool holders.
All the best
Jimmy
Que modelo de optimum es tu torno?
Gracias por tu respuesta
El modelo del torno fue Optimum D180x300.
Ahora lo puedes encontrar como modelo OPTIturn TU 2004V.
Mis mejores deseos
Jimmy
Hello sir,
All my congratulations for this very neat work and the subject that should interest a lot.
Why did you put only 1 bronze guide for the 7mm diameter diver?
In 3.30 you use a tangential tool with a constant profile. Would you have a link for his purchase?
Looking forward to an answer, cordial greetings.
P.K. (French)
Je m'excuse pour la réponse tardive.
Merci pour votre commentaire monsieur, je l'apprécie vraiment! La raison pour ne pas fabriquer une deuxième bague en laiton était la vis de réglage qui guide le piston. L'explication est simple, avec une bague en laiton sur la partie supérieure du corps, il n'y avait pas assez d'épaisseurs pour couper les filets pour supporter la vis de réglage afin de guider le plongeur. Maintenant et puisque le cylindre est durci, il agit comme une surface d'appui pour le piston, à condition bien sûr que les surfaces soient toujours bien graissées.
Voici le lien pours le porte-outil Diamond: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/
La société a également un distributeur au Royaume-Uni: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57&Itemid=281 puisque vous vivez en France, il vous sera plus facile et plus rapide de commander à partir de là.
Cordialement de la Grèce
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Bonjour Monsieur,
Un grand merci pour les informations fournies et le lien pour l'outil "Diamond". Cependant vous serait-il possible de me renseigner d'avantage ?
Je partage vos arguments relatifs à la fabrication du ressort, aussi je serais intéressé par les caractéristiques de ce ressort et si possible un lien pour les acheter. D'autre part j'observe en 0.38 que vous utilisez une loupe rotative avec pointeau, là aussi auriez-vous un lien pour un achat à un prix décent. De quelle manière avez-vous traité les 2 grosses pièces filetées pour obtenir cette teinte ?
Enfin monsieur je suis très impressionné par votre rédaction en français, dominez-vous cette langue ou utilisez-vous un traducteur ? Si oui et dans ce cas pouvez-vous me donner son nom. Dans l'attente d'une réponse mes salutations sincères et mes remerciements anticipés; mais je tiens encore à vous féliciter en tant que personne sérieuse et appliquée et surtout disposée à aider les autres. P.K.
Bonjour Paul,
Encore une fois, je m'excuse pour la réponse différée, mais je vais vous expliquer à la fin de ce commentaire.
Ne le mentionne pas, ce fut un plaisir! Je ne sais pas comment vous aider davantage au sujet du porte-outil Diamond, à part que cela fonctionne pour mes besoins; Les deux avantages de base de cet outil sont les suivants: iil utilise des bits HSS et offre meulage facile aisée grâce au dispositif fourni. Pour des informations spécifiques sur cet outil, je vous suggère de contacter directement le fabricant: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_chronoforms6&view=form&Itemid=284
L'ingénierie excentrique dispose d'une chaîne UA-cam; vous pouvez regarder les vidéos du détenteur du diamant: ua-cam.com/video/iAPyWKXnVFM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/lHs0xVRwuzE/v-deo.html
En ce qui concerne le ressort que j'ai utilisé, voici les dimensions:
Longueur: 78mm
Diamètre extérieur: 12.80mm
Diamètre intérieur: 10.50mm
Épaisseur du fil: 1.10 mm (durcir et trempé).
Je ne peux pas vous fournir de lien pour effectuer un achat. Je l’ai commandé dans un petit atelier spécialisé dans la fabrication de ressorts personnalisés pour les industries locales et, malheureusement, ils n’ont pas de site Web. Peut-être pouvez-vous cherchez dans votre ville natale un atelier de fabricant de printemps pour donner votre commande? Maintenant, dans le cas où les dimensions ci-dessus sont acceptables pour ce que vous voulez faire et que vous ne pouvez pas trouver un magasin sur votre marché local pour passer votre commande ou peut-être que vous trouvez un fabricant de ressort mais il demande une commande minimum de 10 pièces ou plus et le coût est élevé, Je peux vous envoyer deux ressorts de rechange (le coût sera de 4 euros pour les ressorts, emballage et expédition compris entre 5 et 6 euros - selon la taille et le poids de l’enveloppe, le coût total sera de 9 à 10 euros environ. ). Si vous décidez ces que vous voulez les ressorts que j'ai en réserve,, donnez-moi votre email pour arranger ça.
Pour la loupe que vous avez dite (punch central optique), je l’ai achetée à www.chronos.ltd.uk/ la marque est Soba: www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/optical-centrepunch-2/
mais je ne sais pas s'ils ont encore cette marque, ni ce qu’ils facturent pour l’exporter en France; une alternative est de rechercher sur eBay: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Soba+optical+center+punch&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=optical+center+punch faites défiler la page pour voir les options et les prix.
Maintenant, en ce qui concerne les 2 grandes parties filetées (ces deux sont le corps de l'indexeur), ont été cémentés par nitruration et cette teinte est le résultat du processus de durcissement (je pouvais polir les surfaces, mais j'ai choisi de ne pas le faire pour l'apparence fins).
Malheureusement, je ne connais pas le français. mais je connais bien l’anglais, c’est pourquoi j’utilise la traduction Google avec précaution. Je vérifie et revérifie les mots particulièrement difficiles que la traduction Google ne donne pas un sens très clair et cela prend beaucoup de temps, c’est pourquoi mes réponses sont retardées!
UA-cam est une formidable communauté d’échange d’idées et de connaissances. Outre que je fais partie de cette communauté en tant que spectateur régulier, je suis également créateur de contenu. je suis donc obligé de fournir des informations pour le contenu de mes vidéos, bien sûr, dans la limite de mes connaissances.
Merci encore pour votre commentaire, monsieur, je l'apprécie vraiment!
Meilleurs vœux
Dimitris
Reply to JimmysCanal
JimmysCanal Hello Sir,
Thank you again for your availability and your complete answers.
For the tool "Diamand" you gave me all the necessary information, thank you.
For "optical central punch" the first link still sells, so thank you again.
For the finishing of the two parts of the body of the indexer, I am already wondering about the need to nitride these parts that are very little used. Now everyone does what he wants and can. As for the appearance of the pieces it could be obtained by cold phosphating by soaking. This is only a report and especially not a criticism.
Finally for the springs, your proposal interests me if it can succeed. You ask me for my email; I do not want to spread it in the sight of everyone, so I propose to contact you through "Myartsandcraftschest" is possible?
Bonne réception de ce mail en espérant qu'il ne soit pas trop déformé par Google Translate.
Salutations respectueuses. P.K.
Salut Paul,
Ne le mentionnez pas, ce fut un plaisir! Le durcissement des deux pièces était important car il augmente la résistance à l’usure éventuelle du ressort durci, ainsi que la résistance à l’oxydation de surface avec un aspect similaire à celui du phosphatage (Parkerisation), de plus le durcissement est plus économique (7 euros) que la phosphatation.
Oui, vous pouvez m'envoyer votre email via "Myartsandcraftschest" ou vous pouvez trouver mon email pour me contacter, ici: ua-cam.com/users/JimmysCanalabout?disable_polymer=1 peu importe ce que vous choisissez, ça va avec moi.
Google Translate fait un travail parfait, votre message est très compréhensible! Nous parlerons bientôt.
Meilleures salutations
Dimitris
Well done !
Thank you sir!
All the best
Jimmy
Very good job sir! Thank you for sharing it with us! But, take care not to switch the late when indexer is in position... :-) Maybe you can add some part to twist it ex. 90 degrees and pull it up to fix it in the upper position when not in use so it can stay all the time on lathe.
Thank you for your comment, sir! It is always a pleasure for me, to sharing my projects with all of you! Some other viewers said the same with you and more particular a J slot. Unfortunately, at the moment it is a bit difficult because I don't have a mill; or perhaps if I find out another way of making it. Thanks again!
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
dear sir; for now, there is a very simple way to lock the gear point in its upper position. Take a piece of plastic tube of 16 mm length, that has a sloppy fit around the pin (the plunger). Saw out - in vertcal direction of the tube - just enough material so that the tube will "click" around the pin. Put the tube between wheel and barrel so the pin is effectively locked in it's upper position. It is safe, because it will take some force to remove the tube from the pin.
Thank you for your comment sir! It can be done what you said; whatever the tube material may be (steel, plastic) the upper shoulder of the tube needs to have a small detent to hold the pin securely in its possition as well as the slot must be a bit oversized from the diameter of the plunger for been easy to removed by hand when needed.
Sorry for this late reaction; the tube HAS to be plastic and also rather thinwalled, so it is flexible. The slot certainly is narrower than the diameter of the pin and will snap around it. Needs a bit of testing to find the right size of the slot.
No problem at all! Yes, I think that it can work the way you described; thanks again for the idea!
All the best
Jimmy
Привет. Очень понравилось видео. Хочу спросить из чего сделана защита на направляющих
Super Arbeit. Perfekt
Vielen dank für Ihren kommentar sir, ich schätze es!
Alles Gute
Jimmy
Well, I feel like an idiot. I always cut slots with a drill press and a hand file. Now I have a use for my dremel.
Like you sir, I used files and the Proxxon grinder for cutting slots (mostly on soft metals). Until now, this is the most useful tool I've made for my mini lathe! Thank you very much for your comment!
My best wishes for 2019
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
@leonardo migot Please explain more details. Very important for me. What is broken? Why? My English is not understood good. Thank you.
nice video. but one thing: I think it would be good if you show the finished indexer right at the start of the video. Then everyone knows exactly what you are doing during the video.
Thank you for the comment! In some of my videos, I show from the start what I have made, how it works, ect. For this one, I decided to show the finished tool at the end as well as how it works; I thought that it would be more interesting? Thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind! Thanks again for the comment, sir!
All the best
Jimmy
Mate great work. I'm looking at mini lathes at the moment will be my first purchase. Would you mind letting me know what lathe you are using please.
Thank you for your comment sir, I appreciate it!
I have an Optimum lathe, the model is D180x300; a few years back Optimum Machines upgrade the lathe a bit and renamed the model as TU 2004V. You can see the specs on the following pdf (page 41): dk.tools/pdf/OPTIMUM/opti%20lathe.pdf
Since you are searching to buy a lathe be aware that Optimum are a bit overpriced for what they are; if you look on other brands perhaps you can find a bigger machine at the same price of the Optimum.
Happy Easter!
Regards from Greece
Dimitris P.
@@JimmysCanal Thank you great info, and a happy Orthodox Easter. I didn't know you're Greek.
beautiful build. you know you can make springs on the lathe :)..drill press as an arbor press...brilliant...broaching on a lathe...give me my smelling salts
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment!
Unfortunately, If you haven't an arbor press you need to improvise; occasinaly I use the drill press, but only for for small parts like the one you saw in the video.
To be honest, I thought that I could made the spring on the lathe; but because of lack on knowledge of the subject I decided to order it.
Thanks again for your comment, sir!
All the best
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal what lathe do you have there..looks like a nice solid one.
@@minskmade
Optimum is the brand of the lathe: www.optimum-machines.com/
D180x300 is the model. But nowdays come as OPTIturn TU 2004V: www.stuermer-machines.com/brands/optimum/category/product/optimum-lathes-conventional/optiturn-tu-2004v-3420310/
It's well made, but a bit pricey though for its size. Unfortunately, in Europe everything is overpriced:(
All the best
Jimmy
Hi Jimmy, nice work as usual but we expect nothing less from you.
Do you know the trick to double the divisions from a gear? If not, if you put a groove in the flat part of the indexer it can then sit over the gear tooth as well as between. admittedly you would have to modify things a bit but might be worth it.
ATB from sunny England
c
Hi Chris,
Thank you very much for the comment! Believe it or not, I burned my brain while working on the project trying to figure out on how I could made these "half divisions" you just described! Unfortunately I couldn't find any solution to make something accurate with that particular design of indexer.
Two were the reasons, first the tiny space (height-distance) between the headstock and the spindle and second I didn't had (still don't have) a milling machine for making a more complex in shape and accurate body-housing for the indexer incorporating something like a sliding fast action double tip. Perhaps the only thing that posibly can be done now is small (V) female die to fit on the nose of the indexer, but only to use it with the 40T gear. Anyway, I will see? Thanks again for the comment!
All the best from warm and sunny Greece
Jimmy
Well done!
You can have a look at Harold Hall's videos for the "trick". He shows it in a couple of them.
Height distance doesn't have anything to do here, your design is more than fine for it.
All you have to do is to broach a groove in the form of a teeth, perpendicular to the one you have on your tip, as Chris says above, and then chamfer the corners a bit to adjust.
It should look like a W when viewed from the front, and like V like now, when seen from a side.
If properly done, the groove part grips much better than the tip you made, as it will lock three tooth at once.
You're gonna have to remove the dog you made, though. If you want rotational locking, perhaps the simplest would be to integrate a nipple facing down on one of the holes on the handler-wheel you made, and then mill or angle-grind two grooves 90 degrees apart on the top of the holder. That would make it easy to lock in any of the positions when releasing the handler-wheel.
All the best!
Hi Eduardo,
I apologize for the late reply. I saw Harold's videos and are amazing; Thank you for that!! And I think that the solution is simple; I can make a new plunger and with the use of the indexer I can angle-grind the two grooves easily on one tip 90 degrees apart. Then easily I can rotate the plunger if unscrew a bit the knob! Thank you very much, I really appreciate your help!!!
Warm regards from Greece
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
You are welcome Dimitris! I'm glad it was helpful.
Regards from the Canary Islands, which very unfortunately belong to spain :(
Thanks again for telling me about Harold Hall; his site are full of projects and informations, just awesome!!
Cheers
Dimitris
Thank you for sharing, excellent idea and well executed, good video, hope you do not mind if I copy it for my G4000, thank you and have a good day.
Thank you very much for the comment! Happy to share as always and even happier to hear that you like so much that you decide to copy it. Thanks again sir!
All the best
Jimmy
All the best to you and you love ones, and wishing everyone a happy Easter with Love, Good Health, and Prosperity.
Thank you sir. Happy Easter to you and your family too!
Wishes from Greece
Jimmy
You can mill steel with a small rotary tool ?! Impressive !
I apologize for the late reply.
Yes it can be done with such a tool, but only if you make light passes.
Thank you very much for the comment!
All the best
Jimmy
No worries everything is ok. Light passes and slow feed I guess ? Thank you for such nice videos ! Wish you healthy and crafty days :)
Exactly as you said it - light passes and slow feed! Thank you very much, I really appreciate that you like my videos!
Be well and safe my friend
Regards from Greece
Jimmy
You are welcome ! Best regards from Germany !
Great video. Whats the indexer for? Thank you.
Thank you for the comment! The indexer depending on the gear that's attached on the spindle (40 or 60 tooth), gives specific divisions. Now when a part needs to have a pattern of holes or slots at the face or at the circumference of it, with the indexer it can be possible; to do this I use a small drill-grinder with unfortunately limited capacity of endmills (up to 3.2mm). Now if the size of the needed hole-s must be larger than 3.2mm, its easy the use my bench drill after I finished the part on the lathe. In the case of a slot, then the width is limited to 3.2mm. To see exactly what the indexer does, take a look at 19:02 as I'm drilling a series of holes for the knob of the indexer's plunger.
Thanks again.
All the best
Jimmy
Very good job ...Nice idea cool Thanks !!!
Thank you very much for your comment, I appreciate it! Glad that you like it!
Cheers
Jimmy
Hello Jimmy, I have a winch similar to yours, I turn it on and the motor does not rotate, which I could have, I thank you for your attention.
Antonio
Hi,
I'm not an expert on motors, but the first thing I would look would been if the carbon brushes of the motor need replacement. Now, if you put new carbon brushes and the motor still doesn't work, then you should ask a motor technician.
All the best
Jimmy
Nice project Jimmy, really enjoyed your video. May I ask about the 4-jaw chuck seen in the video? Is it an item that fits your lathe right from the manufacturer or you had to modify it? (I have the same lathe as you and thinking about purchasing a 4-jaw chuck).
Thank you Jan, I really appreciate your comment!
No, I didn't modify it. I just bought a back plate and turned its front flange to fit tight on the chuck. But let me explain a bit better; the spindle has three holes, so it can accept chucks with three studs only. As far as I know, all 100mm 3-jaw chucks have an arrangement of 3 studs for clamping on a spindle and the only that can be vary* is the diameter of the back shallow bore-where the chuck connects with the spindle.
*In most Chinese chucks the diameter of the back bore is 72mm and the depth is 6.5mm.
On the other hand all 100mm 4-jaw chucks have an arrangement of 4 studs for clamping and that means that these chucks needs a back plate with an arrangement of 4 holes for bolts to clamp the chuck and with another arrangement for three stud for clamping on the spindle.
Now, all back plates needs a bit of turning on the front flange to fit tight on the chuck; here is an example: if you have a 100mm chuck with 72mm back bore, the front flange of the back plate needs to turned between 72.011mm and 72.03mm for tight fit.
Although the majority of 4-jaw chucks have the 4 stud arrangement, it is possible to find a 4-jaw chuck with 3 studs (I say that, because I saw one in a machinery supply shop 3 years ago).
I hope this will help you a little. Thank you once again for the comment!
All the best
Jimmy
Thank you for your exhaustive answer Jimmy, it helped me a lot.
... but were is the indexing ?
Both the building and the video are made very good... Top 👍👍👍
This Optimum isnt the classical Minilathe as a Sieg Ltd. Clone its one step above but still fits the same class...
Thank you very much for the comment, I really appreciate it!! Yes, I think that is a sort of an intermediate class between the Sieg models C2, C3 and the heavier C4 model: www.siegind.com/lathe-machine.html
All the best
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal that's exakt the one i should have bought when beginning but i took a C3 Clon with nylon gears 😁 i changed them all into steel changed the roller into taper bearings and improved the saddle clamping mechanism while doing that i bought a Optimum Bf16 Mill and i saw yours and realized that this one would have had the most things already okay which i improved.. Its more expensive but if you count the steel gears etc etc you pay nearly the same your work not included 😎😎😎 after 2 years i sold mine and bought a Schreiner D290V with Camlock D1 4, power feed on two directions, 1,5kw, 265kg, Sino DRO with glas scales etc brandnew and am very satisfied since in the USA they sell it as PM 1127 Vlfb from Precision Matthew's.. Its not the most expensive lathe in his class but has all important features to me like Camlock Chuck in 1min you've changed the chuck wether to take a better for the use or to finish later if you don't open it you don't lose precision... I have about 6 chucks now 2 x 3 Jaw, 4 Jaw central and individual clamping, C5 Chuck etc. and change them all the time its like with the QCTP to change a holder very easy and fast but accurate... Well done video👍
Thanks for your reply! Both milling machine and lathe are great, especialy the lathe (I saw some pictures). Although the BF16 is a bit small it can make a lot of things, now as for the D290V lathe the only that I can say is that it has all the needed features to make your 'machining life' easy!! Believe me, your lathe makes me drool (I wish to had one similar and a BF 20 milling machine); Enjoy your great machines! Thanks again for your great comment, my friend!!
Warm regards from Greece
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal i ordered the Schreiner 7045 Mill.. The one with gear transmission not Vario cause it has more than enough different speeds but is more robust than the Vario and the price is okay.. 355kg will be a little challenge bringing into my shop but in two parts head and rest it should go... Can't wait when he comes.. The Bf16 i transform into CNC because that gives me so much possibilities of making parts that can't be done conventional or only very hard... So have lots of projects in the next time.. That's how i like it 😎😎😎 wish you all the best... 👍
I apologize for the late reply.
The Schreiner 7045 Mill is identical with the Optimum MB4; yeah is heavy enough and if you make a good heavy base this machine will be capable to take deep cuts. With two milling machines and with a fairly good size lathe you can make almost everything- I say almost because you need a shaper and a surface grinder (which I wish you to have them the sonest possible) for having a complete machine shop!!! Enjoy your machines and all of your new projects; take care, my friend!
All the best
Dimitris (AKA Jimmy)
Thanks for sharing !
Glad to share my work with all of you!
Happy New Year
Jimmy
merci tres beau travail
Merci beaucoup, content que vous l'aimiez!
Bonne chance
Jimmy
Bravo , bon travail je veut acheter un mini tour identique
Merci pour ton commentaire, je l'apprécie! Si vous voulez acheter un mini-tour, assurez-vous d'abord que le tour que vous choisirez d'acheter sera capable de faire ce dont vous aurez besoin. Par rapport aux autres mini tours, les machines Optimum sont plus chères, consultez cette marque: www.weissmachinery.com/lathe-machine/ ainsi que d'autres marques que vous pouvez trouver sur votre marché local.
Cordialement de la Grèce
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal merci pour orientation salam
J'ai visité le site concerné , mais les prix des produit c'est indisponibles
Je suis désolé, j'ai oublié de dire que vous ne pouvez pas acheter directement sur le site Web du fabricant; ce lien est uniquement pour voir et trouver le tour adapté à vos besoins. Weiss approvisionne de nombreuses marques en mettant leur logo dans les machines. Vous pouvez les contacter ici: www.weissmachinery.com/contact.html pour demander les coordonnées du distributeur principal de machines Weiss dans votre pays.
Alternativement, vous pouvez rechercher un tour adapté dans des sites comme www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/Lathes.html (je pense qu'Amadeal représente les machines Weiss au Royaume-Uni; si vous vérifiez les numéros de modèle dans Amadeal, vous verrez que ce sont similaire avec Weiss).
www.axminster.co.uk/machinery/lathes/engineering-lathes
www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes
Bonne chance
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal très bien mon ami, merci a vous
Bonjour.
Ou avez vous achetez le pignons 60T? Avez vous un lien?
Salut,
J'ai acheté le pignons 5 euros du fournisseur principal ici en Grèce: dk.tools/
C'est le principal fournisseur en France: www.optimachines.com/
J'espère que ceci vous aidera.
Meilleures salutations
Jimmy
What is the purpose of this thing ?
It gives divisions. For instance, if I want to drill 8 holes equally spaced this tool helps on do it.
Very very good
Thank you very much, glad that you like it!!
All the best
Jimmy
Sorry for the dumb question. What does this indexer do? What is it for?
Hi,
I apologize for the late reply. The indexer (is a simplified version of the dividing head) is commonly used on milling machines for drilling holes or milling slots on specific angles. This perticular indexer is used in conjunction with the drive gear of lathe's spindle, a 40 toothed gear as well as it can be interchanged with a 60 toothed gear, giving specific divisions of the number 40 and 60.
All the best
Jimmy
That a diamond tool holder or a diy one? I need one of these.
It's the original Diamond tool holder, you can find here: www.eccentricengineering.com.au/
Cheers
Jimmy
Hello
Would you advise me to buy this lathe?
Hi,
If want to make small parts and tools, yes of course. Optimum machines have good reputation on the market, plus the availability of spare parts that the manufacturer stock in Germany.
All the best
Jimmy
Nós dó canal ferreira motos (torno caseiro) é apaixonado por está máquina ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you very much for the comment!
All the best
Jimmy
7x14 lathe now with 32mm spindel bore @t
What is holding the plunger up when not lathing?
I haven't make something to hold the plunger up; based on the design of the indexer, the plunger is always preloaded downwards. So, when the indexer is set on the headstock the plunger is engaged in the driving gear; meaning that when there is no need for dividing, the indexer must removed from the headstock.
Cheers
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal
Hey, how about a - pull the plunger up then rotate quarter turn to secure it in up position? Just a thought.
Hi,
Thanks for the comment!
Good thought, it can be done; but to make this the upper barrel must redesigned so as to have a horizontal slot that will intersect at the top end of the vertical. Unfortunately to do this I need to have a mill, which I haven't! Thanks again.
All the best
Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal
How about a side hole on the shaft with a cross pin to hold it up when indexing is not used? remove the pin to do indexing?
Yes, this can be done easily and would be a nice addition (I've made a second spare shaft, I can use it). Thanks for the idea!
Best regards
Jimmy
Nice job
Thank you very much David, glad that you like it!
All the best
Jimmy
Just need to machine a dog leg into the pin slot so you can lock it in the up position so it looks like a J.
Yes, that would been a nice addition!
Unfortunately I can't add this feature because this tool it's been sold with the lathe 2 years ago.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
All the best
Jimmy