How To Install Head Gaskets And Head Studs | Duramax
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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These men just showed every budget minded person how to do a $1,500-$3,000 job. Legends.
this is a $4000 job labor only in San Diego... i called 6 Diesel repair shops...
@@johncasor9698$8000 in Tn
Lucky. I was quoted 6k. Yippee for me
@@MarkBarrack 10k Seattle, Washington
I don't comment on videos but definitely wanted to shout out to you on being able to film this process. Unbelievable video contributing to the Duramax community. Good Job
Thanks I really appreciate it
@@TruckMaster I see they used 80 grit sand paper to resurface the block deck. How come no rags anything were used to keep sand paper grit and debris from falling into cylinders and lifter area?
2015_ Rubicnn my guess is they probably get in there with an air gun and blow them out
@@IsThatJomz I don't know, I guess....🤷🏼♂️
thank you.
The level of professionalism from this shop is astounding. You guys work on these trucks as if they are your own. Much attention is paid to details and the teamwork shows just how much these guys probably love what they do and how much they love working here.
Lots of great info. Defiantly changed my mind from "DIY this job" to "just take it to a professional".
I watched this video a good 30 times while working on mine. This video was a life saver for sure!
Thanks
Did you sand the heads as well as the block?
@@frankcreekmore5477 you have the heads machined
@@frankcreekmore5477 the heads must be re-surfaced by a Machine shop.
Any tips? About to do my brother's lbz. Also, what do you think a fair price would be?
This video just saved me $8400 from letting the local shop do it so really i saved 4000 i bought new heads, new headgasket kit, up pipes, down pipe and new exhaust manifolds, new upper and lower radiator hose, fuel return lines, coolant lines, new fuel return from the injectors, and got some new tools thanks keep what your doing !
Did you get the job done and all back up and running?
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
@cdsmit27 pluging it up with paper towels
Thanks fellas. All the what to look for when doing lines makes all the difference in mechanic videos. Y'all are awesome.
Excellent production! Thanks to the technicians for being patient and thorough in describing the process and thanks for all the detailed description of the components and common pitfalls.
I've never done head gaskets and arp head studs on a diesel before, just want to give a big shout out to Ryan for walking me through every step needed to complete this huge project, extremely helpful and would definitely recommend this video! Great job guys thank you very much!
How did it turn out?
Of all the different automotive repair videos I've watched, and there's been hundreds. I have to say that this was the most well explained video I have ever seen. Great job guy's.
Thanks 🙏
@@TruckMaster Hello, I have a 2016 LML is the same process in adjusting valves?
I have a 34 year aerospace career as an assembler and machinist and have worked on some of the most complex jet engines in existence and after watching this I have come to realise they ain't got NOTHING on a Duramax engine for the layers of crap you have to remove just to replace something as simple as head gaskets. Looks like you guys have it down to a science. How much does replacing the head gaskets cost? Great job by the way..........
You have know idea! I have an 04 duramax that only has 194k miles on it. I had to replace injectors, so I got my cousin (who is GM certified mechanic and works mostly on Duramax) to help me. Well, this video brings back the nightmares!! I've always thought of myself as a descent (spare time) mechanic.....long story short, I will never do that again! To me, nothing on a vehicle should be that ridiculous to get to. I saved alot of $$ but I believe it might be better just to pay someone to do it. I'm sticking to the easier stuff, Brakes, alternator, water pump etc etc
Most places will charge between $2k and $4k just for labor. The parts kits are between $600 and $1200 cost depending on if you get ARP studs and upgraded gaskets. I totally charge $3k total if I'm doing it on the side for guys from a performance forum, but that's only if I don't have a bunch of work lined up. Its a full 12 hour job if you know what you're doing and are good on your tools.
@@dawgfather2101agreed!
I am a cummins guy, but enjoy your videos on the duramax trucks. I like the fact that they protect the front end and paint. That is a good mechanic who takes pride in what he does. if i was to ever buy a duramax i would make the long drive from upstate NY just for them to work on it.
Video saved me $8k Way easier than it looks. These engines look intimidating until you get them tore down.
How bad is it really? I’ve done a few head gasket jobs with gas engines but have yet to do a diesel.. how long did it take you to finish?
Just finished getting my heads out. Off to the machine shop tomorrow. Snapped 2 GPs. I used this video all the way through tear down. This is by far the best head gasket install video I have seen. Thanks.
Thanks 👍
When were you deployed. I was OND 2011-2012
Finished last weekend. Went with new heads. Wait time for machine work was to long. Video helps a lot. On a ie note, do not buy cheap return lines.
@@troyhuwe6589 did you watch this vid to tear it completely down?
@@logan8256 yes. It doesn't cover every step but it was extremely helpful
I know this is late but thank you for giving us a professional step by step video on this. I have learned quite a bit.
This is a helpful video for sure. BUT if your thinking about doing this job yourself watch this video in it's entirety. They show mostly the passenger side, that's because the drivers side is a total PITA.
That being said. In my opinion they leave out a lot of VERY crucial details on putting it back together especially towards the end. (Anyone can rip something apart) Example put your injectors in before your top fuel lines 55.55 in the video. On the drivers side after injectors are in install HP fuel lines from main fuel rail to injectors START WITH # 7 #5 then main fuel line next #3 #1 if not you will be taking off everything they told you to put on to tighten the fuel lines from #7-#1. Again I'm not bashing the video It helped me a lot just could of been better detailed going back together. Just trying to help someone out wanting to take the job on their self
I did this by myself in my garage back in 2013 on my LLY. I would rate this job as “intermediate”. It shouldn’t be too bad for someone who has some experience working on cars but I wouldn’t recommend for a novice or beginner. This video is fantastic. Only thing I would add:
-have plenty of spare fuel and coolant line and replace all of those small rubber hoses. Mine were dry rotted.
-I would get new glow plugs. Several of mine broke off in the head and the machine shop had to remove them.
-get new fuel return lines. A few of mine broke off in the injector.
-use care with all of the harnesses, they break easy
-take the time to clean everything before you reassemble, esp if you don’t have deletes
-at the end, I filled the coolant with water, and idled for about an hour to check for leaks. Then changed the coolant and oil.
I’m 18 and have no mechanical experience. It came down to I could only afford to do them myself. I studied this video for a week, got certain tools for the job and tackled it all by myself. It’s all about will power and determination
esp?
@logan8256 I've watched this atleast half a dozen times. My only problem with it is they never show how to clean the metal dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly. How did you do that and is your truck still going strong after the job?
@@cdsmit27 There's different schools of thought on this. My way: First, use compressed air if you have it to blow everything out. Rotate the crank so a few pistons are at the bottom, take some sort of grease, coat the cylinder walls, then rotate the cylinders passed TDC. You'll notice the piston rings will catch all the crud and bring it to the top for you to wipe out. Repeat for remaining cylinders. Anything you missed will get caught in the oil filter, and that's why you change the oil after your first run up.
As for the water jackets, hopefully you stuffed a few shop rags or put tape over them to prevent anything from going down there in the first place. If you feel some shavings went down, it really shouldn't be a big deal and just flush the cooling system after you're finished.
P.S. I sold the truck in 2019, but it ran smooth and flawless. No issues several years and thousands of miles later.
especially. sorry I got lazy typing@@diligentefforts8172
How in the world did GM design, engineer what your taking apart and will be putting back together??? What a CLUSTER! I don’t know how you even open the hood and look at what’s before your eyes without getting totally disturb and quit!!! I don’t know how you do this day in and day out. You people are special!!! Keep on TRUCKING!!!
Just watched this video , I luv my 12v Cummins even more 🤣
I bet you really love it when a Duramax pulls away from you under any condition!🤣😂🤣😂👍🏼
@@DonkeyGap750K3Gixxer I dont really give 2 fawkes how fast your truck is , I dont have any payments and can pull any trailer and no computer to run my engine .
Have fun replacing your injectors .
Have a good day 😁
Cummins garbage
@@oscarrecinosbg3971 says the loser living in his mom's basement
Says the one still replying... 5 months later.
I remember when i did this to my lbz. It's not even a shitty job, its just time consuming
I’m about to tackle this job. Any tips for me, things to look out for or does this vid wrap it up
@@logan8256 Get the fuel line disconnect tools and just watch the dipstick tube- pain to get back in
@@rhunter3406 did you have a buddy that knew how and showed you or did you watch this video as u tore it down
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
Head gaskets 101. Fill all openings and cylinders with shaving cream. Scrape with gasket scraper. Get the largest knife honing stone you can find. Bass pro had an 8” x 3”. Start with course side using wd40 going lengthwise. Finish with fine side. Don’t go crazy. Vacuum up and turn motor over wiping cylinders. Oil cylinders and turn over. NO SANDPAPER EVER!!!
Sincere question. What do you mean turn motor over? It's not able to run at that point.
Man I’ve been watching this for a month now helping with my head gasket replacement! Thanks for the great video!
How’d the project end?
i watch this video for 3 months. waiting on ARP studs 2 month back order,,, the machine shop said one head was junk had holes so i got 2 brand new heads $550 each not bad for brand new.
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
I bet them lifters really love the metal filings from sanding the deck of the block lol. I’m sure these guys are good mechanics that’s no doubt but leaving the passageways that the pushrods go through down to the lifters wide open to get covered in metal filings and undoing the head bolts from centre out when the procedure calls for undoing outside inwards. Also assembly lube is your best friend personally I woulda applied lube to every metal surface in the valve train to mitigate dry starts but that’s just me. Other then that pretty good video
Thanks for your input Dustin, make a video as well to show us all how it done ! I’m sure it will help a lot of people in the diesel community
The sand/shavings into all the wrong places just freaks me out. No f----n way. Not on my engine. I'd rather do a full engine out rebuild and spend an extra $5000 than have sand in those critical areas. (Might result in that anyhow after the damage happens.) And that is not just regular sand .. the abrasives used on sandpaper are the strongest they can obtain/make.
@truck master that was the best response I think I have ever seen on a “suggesting comment” 🤣
Hey @tuckmaster! I owe you and Ryan and Logan genuine how do you do and thank you! I've had a true improvement in my life after i went ahead and dove right into this - i can't say I'd recommend attempting it, if anyone's wondering, and i figured this: I did my LLY head gaskets about 4,000km ago, in March, 2020, and if work calls, and says stay home, and basically the whole world shuts down and you can't leave your house for over a month, then i recommend you do your head gaskets, and then use this video if you own a LLY, its perfect, its beautiful, its money, its going to be hard, but in the end its a now-you-can-do-anything-you-put-your-mind-to kind-of-a-feeling, that I must thank you for instilling in me with these instructions, and I felt it enough to share with you all, that, together we will get us all to a truly better place and improvement in life, whatever you want to learn and rebuild or create, watch the ones that know what they're doing that are doing what you want to do, stop and listen, help if you're asked, and get yourself a to-do list down on paper, and when folks take the time to share, feeling gratitude and wonder in your heart is the way to be, and be sure to make a start on whatever it is first thing as possible in your day. My truck will always have that story built in there for extra horse-torque-power when i need it also, so I'm stoked, and I'll be thanking you guys!
Thank you all. Could not have done it without you guys at that time.
Thank you for your generous spirits and super skilled and steady ways.
Thank you for sharing. God Bless!
I’m 18 just bought an lly. Ofc the head gaskets are in need of replacement. I have zero diesal experience. I work on dirtbikes but those don’t even compare to this job. I have the same attitude as you, if someone else can do it so can you. I’ve been collecting certain tools for this job and recently got laid off bc of the COVID crap so here’s a perfect opportunity to tear into it without being rushed. Thanks for that extra booster
@@logan8256 howd she go
@@kxracingmark4441 A complete waste of time.
COMPLETE waste of time, money and energy.
COMPLETE!!
Huge thank you! After watching this video several times since you made it I finally finished heads and arp studs as well as new cp3 and water pump. It took me two weekends but the ol lb7 with 315000 miles is running like a top keep em coming!
Nice 👍
Any big differences on the lb7 compared to this video
Thank you for your video, this has help.me do my headgasket by my self in 3 days had a fuel issue for 1 day an it was my fuel housing needing rebuilt. Never have I done anything like this to a vehicle other than turbos on a bmw 135i. This was a extreme help! First diesel headgasket job done perfect!
Thanks! Glad it all worked out for you
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
Wow. Impressively thorough. I’m sure I will be referring to this if I attempt to do head gaskets and studs on my own. Much appreciated 👍
Thanks
for anyone doing this job, I'd recommend using the 3M bristle brush for cleaning the block. it doesnt make a mess, it's great for getting the soot off the block from where the blow was and it makes the job much faster.
also blow out the stud holes with air and shop vac everything out, otherwise you'll be pulling the heads off again go blow them out.
Do yourself a favor and just leave the exhaust manifold on. The 3 bolts connected to the manifold, one is in a very tight spot that is impossible to get a socket on. I bent wrenches trying to get it off, so just leave the manifold on.
Also it wasnt discussed in the video but I changed my oil before I started it up. given that the oil was contaminated with coolant I didnt wanna risk any further damage to my engine.
Yea personallyvi would have stuffed rags and shit in the cylinders and the pushrod holes. Great idea to be dropping sand paper particals into holes where the fucking cam is. Cylinders easy to clean out but better hope nothing dropped down those pushrod holes lol
For those egr cooler bolts on the exhaust (by the firewall), use a flex head type ratchet.
Tht'a exactly what I did, a 3/8 12pt and a long Cornwell swivel handle ratchet., tight but no problem.
Good video. Only things I thought you left out is what to replace while you're there. Rebuild turbo, new water pump, new oil cooler gaskets, go through wire harness and replace protective sheath. I also replaced my reservoir tank. While the heads were out for machining I had all the intake and valve covers powder coated semi gloss black. Added mishimoto up and down pipes, PPE exhaust manifolds and a dual fueler. Hard to believe some guys skip the valve lash. You don't belong wrenching on a duramax engine if you cant do valve lash. My early 06 LBZ had the rivet head gaskets and just started to show signs so I did HG's and studs preventively. Cheers.
Will this video work for an 11 lml?
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
I started out trying to remove my heads by leaving the cab on. Like in the video. The up pipe bolts I was basically having extreme problems getting the bolts broken loose. Not twisting them off. I changed my plan, and took the cab off. It was very much worth the effort to do that. Then everything became so easy to work on. Don't know if I would even try this job regardless of truck condition without doing a cab removal. Just my .02
That’s one hell of a way to make 8 bolts easier to remove. Pulling a cab is no easy task. I’d much rather pull the engine than remove the cab. Obviously you have some sort of gantry crane at your disposal, and I’ve pulled a cab and box so I know what’s involved.
I’m sure the bolts are a PITA, but shoot some PB, wait a day or 2, and use some heat if you have to. Way easier than a cab pull.
Cab pull takes 45 minutes lol@@P1ayD0hpaul
I have a duramax that someone tried to do a share head gasket job and lost the dowel on the driver side. It will allow the head to slide downhill a few thousands so when reassembled it will starve the oil passageway and lock up the push rod between the gasket and the head casting. Also had a crap @$$ shop try and repair it and use the same handed gasket on both sides. Grrrrrr! Love the quality work being done in this video!
Hands down the best video on this I’ve seen!! Thanks!
Thanks
They did an awesome job on that headgasket job. The only thing i saw that i didnt like ( im not a professional) was that when he sanded the block surface, he didnt put anything in the pushrod valleys to prevent grit from falling in. Correct me if i just didnt see it and he actually did. Other than that they did a good job and you made a very detailed video. Too bad it came 4 months late because i would have used it to my advantage.
Yeah I personally would have done a little more to seal off other parts of the engine from sanding grit. That said though, even if some grit made it to the oil pan and was picked up by the pump, the first stop it hits is the oil filter before moving on to the bearings and other critical wear surfaces,
Absolutely. try being as clean as possible. With dirt,cast iron and sandpaper grit that will be hard to do, but try. That and some type of lube on the valvetrain moving parts.
I said the same fucking thing man. Some dildo even had the nerve to say hes done it like that for yeara with no problems. Yea sure maybe the thing didnt grenade ever butt im sure there are some scores on the cam
right... wads of paper towels would been nice
@@jeffscott3160 some engines have a oil filter before the oil pump .... not the duramax ...grains of rock will get into the pump. sad to see them use sand to crape the deck it will do no good... it might take off .00005 mill... which is half of a tenth of a thousands ...
Awesome production quality! Every time I see a teardown I remember why I hate how overly complex they made this truck haha. But a great vid
Awesome video. Its was extremely helpful for me doing my valves after putting head studs in. The only thing I would recommend is to actually loosen each rocker before torqueing down the main assembly. If they were tight like several of his were while being torqued, then you loosen them to get the feeler gauge in, you wouldn't have 30 ft lbs. anymore.
followed this video doing headgaskets on my 04, now I'm doing another 05 lly. Thanks again for your help.
Are you telling me I can follow this video the whole time I do my head gaskets? I’ve never done them b4
@@logan8256 there's a few things I did differently:
-after tons of research I found prepping the block with sandpaper was a bit questionable, I used a razor blade and wd40
-make sure you stuff the pushrod valleys with rags
-make sure you change the oil before startup
-i chose to leave the exhaust manifold on the truck, found it much easier
-if your going the route of deleting your egr, I strongly recommend doing something with the y bridge. the mouthpiece will blow out without the factory egr holding it in, so I jb welded the 2 together
-when removing the valve cover hex bolts, spend lots of time cleaning them out or you will strip them
-i found it much easier to remove the hood, especially if your doing it in your garage.
I've down 2 duramaxs, the first one I did the sand paper method as shown in the video, 40,000 kms later no problems. the second time I just used the razor blade. wasn't able to find any information online of anyone using sandpaper so made me very nervous.
good luck
@@noahthompson9930How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
@@cdsmit27 shop vac
I've never worked on a diesel engine nonetheless taking it apart to the engine block, but this video definitely saved me $11k that the diesel shop was going to charge me; Thank you truck Master and Ryan's diesel.
11k got damn
@@marcusjennings7616 yeah that dealership was silly to assume I also needed new heads based on a 2 hour diagnostic they made on my truck 🤣 that's why I was quoted $11k
Best to estimate high then low.
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
This job is definitely above me. So hard pass for me on head gaskets. These guys know their stuff.
Great, informative video Truck Master, Ryan and Logan! Thank you for taking the time and documenting it step by step, I can't thank you enough. I don't know what some of the comments were talking about background noise?? I could hear you clearly and was so engrossed with the details that I didn't pay attention to any background noise. Happy New Year!
Thanks Raul Happy New Year!
This video is the reason why i just subscribed to the channel and why i will shop for stuff here as well.
Thanks!
@@TruckMaster no man thank you for taking the time with your shop pals to do this video. Im a life long GM owner and everything ive ever worked on was gas LT1, LS motors or Gen 2 350 Vortecs. And i will admit, i always wanted a diesel but ive been terrified of having to work on one if and when it comes down to it. Your video cured my anxiety and boosted my confidence and im no longer afraid. Looks to be no difference than working on a gas motor.
Did anyone also say Dammmmmmm. Leave it to the pro's .. Keep up the good job guys [impressive]
Thanks brother
No sir. I had zero diesal experience and tackled the job. If someone else can do it so can you. I can’t explain the emotion I felt after she cranked up after the fresh gaskets.
Unfortunately having my head gaskets replaced but what a great video now I know why it’s close to $6000. Thank you !
Bruh i have an lly, sweet! Thank you truck master, ryan, and the other Technician!
👍
Wow, thats a lot of details, tips, and tricks! I can't imagine what a nightmare this would be to do if you didn't have this video to refer to. Nice job guys.
Great video extremely helpful! I do wish it showed a little bit more on the driver side cause that’s the tricky side but over all very helpful saved me a lot of time on this job
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
Love the details you went through the whole process.
Great video. I would have cleaned the coolant reservoir to detect the same issue in the future
I have heard some people torquing the ARP Head Studs down to 130-140 lb-ft instead of 125, especially in applications with higher than stock boost levels.
..yeah, i stick a flat of appropriate size Cardboard next to those Radiator Fins during Any Type Work involving Those Components.. strap in with a light bungie, tape on with blue painter's tape, whatever..
one big mistake i made was when i got the new heads on and running, the A/C stop working and the coolant light was on and it was full. i took it to a auto electric shop and they found very quickly the wire connectors were swap there are the same style connectors for the coolant recovery tank and the A/C plug on the low presser... accumulator... i think is what the tech told me... they are the same length and same style connector .... WOW so look out for that one... i could not believe GMC used the same connectors...
I did that to my Lb7 back in 2017 its very time consuming never worked on diesel before just gas engines, it all started with
filling up at diesel station that contained free water in their underground tank. It busted three injectors plus one of the seals on
the high pressure pump which led to diesel leaking into the oil system. I had to tear it all the way down due to Lb7 injectors are inside
the valve cover. Once there I had the cylinder heads rebuilt. All brand new MA injectors, new water pump from MA , also a fuel air separation
system from air dog and got rid of that OEM useless water catcher and filter. he he. still going strong 165k miles on it.
I wish this video would've been out then it would've taken me a lot less time to complete the job. Instead of a month and a half I probable would have
done it in a week.
The Milwaukee power ratchet is such a time saver!
Great video with lots of good info and care being taken, except for one thing that really bothers me: When cleaning the block surfaces prior to mounting the heads, the use of sandpaper as shown here will result in a large amount of industrial-strength abrasive sand and iron particles collecting around the top edge of all pistons, sitting on the rings as well as dropping into the oil passages and even water passages. I am sure this will cause a lot of damage. There has got to be a better way. There are no easy solutions to this issue, but I would love to hear some suggestions. (Solvent, wiping, vacuuming, air blasts, oil filter/change .. none of those steps will removal all the abrasives. For sure a bunch is going to wear the cylinders and depending on how the oil passages route .. maybe crank, cam bearings lifters and more.)
Most people who take the time to sand the head before reinstalling will take an air gun and blow out all the cylinders and everything. They might not have showed it here but im sure that's what they did. These guys seem way too good at their jobs to let something like that slip.
@@packfannumber1 i agree
@@packfannumber1 that's not even close to what maxhauler was pointing out. You can't "blow" this type of debris out of an engine without blowing more of it down deeper into critical areas that WILL cause abnormal wear and tear on the customers engine. This is just irresponsible work procedures on their part for using this sloppy, incompetent process for cleaning the deck surface. 4 oil drain back holes in the very bottom of the deck that go straight into the crank case(oil pan). How are you going to "blow" that out without sending it to the pan? Not to mention the 80 grit debris that fell into the pan because they didn't block the passages before they "blow" it deeper.
@@Iatolaazzahola take the pan off and blow it out lol
lmao.. stop it
Great detail on the steps.....very helpful. I have a 2004.5 Duramax with the LLY engine.
Phenomenal video! Thanks for making this film. These guys are legit!
Thanks
This video helps me out when im working on my buddy's duramax. And you made a good content to man.
I have hope! Phenomenal video!!!
Perfectly displayed, explained, no wasted time, and nothing missed. Wow THANK YOU!!!
do you have a video or recommendations on egr delete while in there? Any other things a guy should consider replacing while in there?
Men like you, make it possible for guys like me to even try to begin a job like this!
Again thank you.
God bless.
if your wondering why your getting comments from me on older videos its cause im binge watching all your videos for like the third time haha its been a minute so im refreshing myself haha
That was a Great and Informative Video. I own a 2005 Chevy Duramax. And I was just wondering what that job involves. Great information on this. I know if or when my turn comes the bolts wont come off as easy as those ones did in the video..LOL. But thats my LUCK...LOL
Again Sir Thank You for the info. Great Video.
Big job guys................thank you for your style, awesome tutorial
If your intentions are to drain the system then do that before you pull a cap off a pressurized res. Ounce you no longer have pressure pushing coolant out the drain then pull that cap so it will flow
This is fun to watch at like 10x speed with the Benny Hill theme on
I have an LMM, the turbo on mine is too close to remove the bolts at 24:00 you have to either remove the turbo or get the last bolt completely off when the heads are loose. Also the oil dip stick tube runs up through the passenger side, in between the engine mounts 😒 down behind the starter motor and into the bottom of the engine. To save yourself tons of work and frustration the best thing to do is to take the exhaust manifold off the heads instead of trying to remove that oil dipstick tube. Also to make the job 100x easier just use an engine hoist and some straps to carefully and slowly remove your cylinder heads...
Love it very cool that Ryan let you do this with him, thank you very much
Man been waitin for this if it was 2mnths sooner it would have saved me 6k
Great video : This engines use too be the greatest nothing Biglin to be repair . After those EGR valves and cooler many things go wrong .
Great info and some hints for the biguiners . Stinky job .
😂
Awesome video my head gasket went out on my 2016 gmc Dinali Duramax with only 43,000 miles on it to get to the dealership I still had a warranty appreciate the video thanks
Doing my LLY right now. This video made me very comfortable doing it myself
How did you clean the metal dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
i was fortunate enough to have this video to guide me as i just did studs and HG in my LLY, what a great knowledge packed step by step video, thanks guys
Have any issues with the injector hold down bolts?
How did you clean the metal dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
Awesome video bud!! I’m about to do this on an lly dually I picked up from a buddy of mine. It was good to watch this to give me an idea what I will be getting into. I really appreciate your informative videos keep up the good work!
Thanks I appreciate the positive feedback
Love your videos, hate that when you're filming at Ryan's there is always a high pitched noise in the background. Almost makes me not able to watch. Tinnitus on steroids
Nice video of going through the process. A couple things you didn't address for your customers. The GM Technical Service Bulletin on these engines specifically goes over this part of deck prep to keep abrasives OUT of the critical areas of the engine. You are sanding the block deck with 80 grit sand paper allowing the sanding media to fall into the engine at the lifter openings and the 4 oil drain back holes in the bottom section of the deck, then proceed to NOT explain to people how important it is to NOT get sanding grit down into the oil system. How do you get away with that? Then you fail to explain that the main issue that you would be attempting to correct with a sanding block on the deck is that the deck will have a low spot at the exact point of head gasket failure. Look @35:46 in the video where you happen to shine the light on the entire passenger side deck, you can still see the low spot(dark area) in the deck that coincides with where the fire ring on that gasket was blown at the rear of the cylinder. This is where the fire ring seals on the deck, the deck is still low there. I'm not saying it is going to fail, but it has potential to blow again in the same spot "if it is too low and not addressed properly". I know you do a lot of these jobs, how many have failed since you did this to them? You may have taken steps to ensure this didn't happen, but I don't see you addressing it here in this video, please inform your customers about these not so minor details I've brought up here. Thanks for showing your process. For people watching, DO NOT SAND your block deck like these people do in this video UNLESS you can keep these heavy abrasives out of your ring lands, and your oil and water passages!!
I do wish someone would respond to this…or at least share what they believe is the proper method.
Bringing this up is a waste of time. I've made a couple calls to the shop to speak with one of their techs to get some answers about this specific issue but their techs don't speak over the phone. So with no explanation of how they clean the block, this video should NOT be used as a reference. A lot of people's motors will end up in an early grave if they follow this video.
Yeah, you're right. They've been asked this question repeatedly since I posted this reply, crickets is all we're hearing. Out of 435k views, 4600 hit the like button. GM put out a technical service bulletin on the correct way to clean the deck after checking it with a straightedge, they say no less than 600 grit sandpaper is to be used. @@cdsmit27
watched this as i contemplate a new truck, i think my ole girl finally gave in after 15yrs together the LLY has the tell tell signs... however it did this 6yrs ago and i just bought a rad cap and bled the system... may try that again, i wonder if truck master would be interested in doing my heads
Love the video! Very informative. The only part that makes me cringe is sanding the block like that without trying to keep grit out of the block. I see several other people voicing the same concern but no answer as to why this is ok. Are we worrying to much? Now I'm not a pro mechanic or anything but i have turned wrenches most of my life privately and a little in a shop (also former Army 63W) and this just seems like a terrible idea?...
How would you keep the grit out? I would stuff the lifter galleys with lightly oiled big fat car wash sponges cut to fit .
@@321CatboxWA I wasn't asking how to keep it out. I'm asking why they don't seem to be worried about it.
Ok your other video did suck but seeing this one tells me how good you can be.
Much respect
Subscribed
Always be super careful not to nick the head gasket in any way by bumping or misalignment when placing the head- the gasket WILL leak
thank you so much!! this is my 1st lbz and 1st time working on a diesel and Im coasting along just fine watching this video. 😁
How did everything pan out for you? I’m gonna watch this vid and take things apart today
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
You’re right about the rocker cover I used to get in a fight with the lead mechanic who trained me about this very step he wanted me to use a ratchet and I swore by the impact that you never believe me how even the three eights air impact did a great job you just have to hammer them in all the way and do it in one shot not too hard not to fast
Thank god i dont have to do this to my truck....... but when and if i do, i know exactly where to look!
Perfect 👌
Just wanted to say thank you for such a great video. I just did this job on my 05 and this video was great help !!
How did you clean the metal sanding dust out of the cylinders and coolant ports before reassembly?
You just made my job so much easier. Thanks
Very nice video! Thank you! My only criticism is that it would have been convenient to show the re-festooning of the wire harness during the reassembly.
These guys are super sharp! Very impressive. 👍👍
I’m new to this but what about the possibility of sand grains from the sandpaper getting into the block?
This is great, showing your own shortcuts/helper points the way i use too.
I like placing a poster board or card board over the radiator
I loved this video with a lot of information and how to do but most important at the end they show u the truck running 💯💯💪🏾💪🏾
Hey Josh,
Have you ever seen a blown head gasket on an LLY that doesn't lose coolant but has a hard upper rad hose and occasionally pukes coolant out the over flow tank if run hard? Coolant tank isn't black either
Yes it’s still possible you have a failed gasket but pressurize your coolant bottle and check for leaks first but it can also be your thermostats or radiator.
Helped me by watching this
what about the grit falling into block from sand paper? where the push rods go or other ports that have access to block internal. Would running it a liitle and changing the oil right away be sufficient ?
Thank you for this video doing my first set of head gaskets on my lb7 tomorrow morning
@@Rover19666 honestly ended up pulling the motor and trans and rebuilding them with a stage 4 trans kit and injectors and a few other parts
*DURAMAX is the best DIESEL!!!*
Aris Torm Detroit 2 stroke is a very close second.
@@truckinman86 the old 2 strokes make some fantastic sound but thats the only thing they are good for. Poor fuel economy, high maintenance cost, and crap torque compared to anything made in the last 20 years. yes you can modify them to make them better, but if that same effort and cash is put into a newer motor the 60 series will dominate it in all ways.
I have an 2005 GMC LLY (95,000 miles) and also a 2002 Ford 7.3. My vote for the best diesel is the 7.3...much simpler and no head gasket problems ever over the 290,000 miles that it has on it now. The LLY is definitely more powerful and quicker, but i would rather trade some power for longevity and reliability. Thanks for another great video. Used your turbo removal video and removed mine to free up the Unison ring. Now back together and running great!
Cummins is the best diesel, unfortunately dodge/ram is the worst truck. Ford is the best truck, but powerstroke is the worst diesel.
The GM Duramax is a nice compromise
@@chakagillis facts but i think if gm had a solid front axle the truck would be overall better quality
Wow what a project. Got an idea. The experience that you have in these trucks you should start a business to have a call center if someone has an issue,, then we can turn to you and can supply us with parts we need. Just a thought. 👌👌😁😁
You need an old valve adjusting tool like I got from my dad for setting the valves on a 235 6. Socket mounts on the handle and a knob on top turns the flat blade to adjust the valve. Hold the knob, turn the handle to tighten the stop nut, done. Wrench and screwdriver is slooooww.
Aren't you worried about any grit from the sand paper getting down where the lifters are or anywhere else for that matter?
Finally a video that just cuts to the chase
Very serious question and I hope it gets answered . When the tech was prepping the block surface with his sanding technique, doesn’t that cause all that abrasive material and small metal particles to get into the oil passages into oil pump and all that ? How do you go about cleaning that up ? Won’t that destroy bearings over time ?Please reply
Yea you got a point
Really like to know some info on this too!
@@danthatguy9686 I’ll give you the info . That grit is going into the crank case and stickin to the casting . Then when you drain the oil after finishing the heads (like you should do ) all that grit makes atleast one round around the bearing before the filter catches it
Awesome video fellas! I’ll be doing this very soon lol
Won’t metal shavings go into the motor and cylinder when sanding?
Shavings are visible pieces of metal. Sanding doesn’t produce shavings. Anything in the cylinder will blow out with a quick blast of air. It’s possible tiny debris could fall in the coolant passages, so somewhat valid point. Yet either a stone or sandpaper has been used for decades, so it’s obviously not an issue. These guys haven’t invented any of the work being done.