Hi Dom I have poured leaf for fixing iron work and grandpa showed me how this process was done on steam engines. A acid was used to clean the iron work, I guess like modern flux, then the lead mix would be poured in. I think your on the right track good luck with it.
Keep at it Dom. Who has never tried to do something they are unsure of? It’s essential we follow that inquisitive nature to develop learning. Loved the fixing of the cast part. I’ve often wondered how such a fix was done. Many thanks, Wayne
Over filling the Colchester coolant tank is part of the initiation process. You can add an overflow pipe to that finger hole, and run it to a tray at the front to give yourself a bit of a back up.
Well done for showing all the "didn't go quite right" moments, we can all learn from that and it shows that engineering can be fraught with hazards and uncertainties👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Ah; my weekly engineering fix completed. Another fascinating and instructive video Dom. An added bonus too; of an insight into some of your future plans for expanding your enterprise. It will be great following progress!
I found an old flannel bedsheet that I was going to cut up into rags, was rather handy for mopping up the overflowing coolant. I think most of us have done the same when first setting up a Colchester. The tank sat inside is considerably smaller than would first be expected looking at the size of the lathe. Wrapping cast iron in an old fire blanket helps slow the cooling process down nicely.
I think you did well getting that old cast iron to tin. One of the most active fluxes that you can use is Killed Spirits or Bakers Fluid. I also think the old lead solder is a lot better than the new lead free stuff.
You have the right attitude here, have a go, if it fails you get experience, if it works you make a note of what you did! I would be very surprised if you were able to tin cast iron! I really cannot see the need to as the babbit will go into and small depressions in the casting and prevent movement of the bush, if you want to make it extra locked you can machine radial grooves in the housing, and providing to casting is heated up before you pour the babbit it will form a mechanical bond, good luck! Chris B.
Well done Dom, your slowly getting there, if you spill any more coolant , don’t use a mop, use a spade or shovel and pour it into a bowl or something, that’s what we do at work, 👍👍.
A lot of people call brazing welding, it isn't! Welding is melting the parent metals together, brazing is using a bras or bronze filler which joins the two metals without changing the structure of the metals to be joined. You could try Bakers fluid which is a hydrochloric acid based flux when tinning the cast iron. Cheers, Matthew
Fine work, Experts on tinning cast iron I guess are few , used special fluxes but only tiny areas/ I agree, probably not wetted origionally. fixed the clicky knee on new bridgeport and adjusted x y backlash .
Hello Dom, An enjoyable video, thank you... Good to see the tinning got done, well done... I am not sure if you are aware of Keith Ruckers channel as he has done quite a few restorations with babbitt bearings. See you next Sunday... Take care. Paul,,
Hello Dominic! I have been watching really interesting your videos . I have Ranalah too . I bought at in England couple years ago . It was poor condition.The problem was that it wasn’t lined up with upper and lower wheel (machine was fall down some age ) and the upper wheels axle was bended . We managed straighten the axle without melt and renew the axle. The machinist told me that the axle were not been tinned ,even it looks like so . He mentioned that substance what they been used that time is not shrinking is it spreading . He dosen’t remenber the special substance name but he said that metallurigies use that nowsdays also.
I enjoyed watching that Dom. It was interesting watching you solve the problems you encountered. I always enjoyed fixing my problems, it's very satisfying. As for things in the oven, I've lost count of the times I've put my bike/car spark plugs in to warm them or dry them. Have a good week Dom and thanks for filming it all.👍🙂
Parts in the oven, walnut tumbling media(bagged...) in the washing machine & maggots(fishing bait) in the fridge. There are many advantages to terminating the idea of shared living space. 😁
Pretty nasty stuff but it does the business, I think it's got hydrochloric acid in as the cleaning medium but I cant be sure now. It's a long time since i last used it but if you do Dom wear a very good filter mask or ever a pumped air helmet as the fumes are bloody awful lol
Excellent work, Dom. I remember the solder paste from a brief foray into lead loading. Good stuff. I will watch with interest when you do the babbitt pour. I don't know if you are familiar but Keith Rucker has featured babbitt pours a few times in his videos. I could sense your excitement at the end there, that's just the way it is sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
Thank you Dom for the Ranalah update. Coming along nicely. To bad about the crack, however it looks like the crack may have been repaired. Looking forward to more progress updates!! Cheers
Great work Dom. Keep showing the mistakes. Nobody believes it when everything works perfectly 😁 Are you going to covered the “Tinned” parts to keep them clean ?
Mask 👍👍👍 Fume extractor system please.! We protect eyes fingers (and jumpers!) - so look after those lungs as well! You're doing a great job - thank you!
Tinning cast iron is very, very hard, pickling in Sulfuric acid helps. Are you sure it was tinned originally though. Normally if there's knobbles and lumps welded or cast on, it's more a structural bond than a chemical one they depend on. I've done a lot of white metal (Babbit) bearings in my time, working for a firm who specialise in casting and machining vintage car bearings. And when there where knobbles, there was no tinning. Also, is there a reason your using Babbit? I would have assumed the original would have been cheaper lead. Keep up the good work, it's lovely seeing the old tools brought back to life.
That’s really interesting, knobbles and bumps are all there on the parts, I assume the rough surface of the casting inside the holes helps too.. It doesn’t seem like any of the originals I’ve taken apart were tinned, I’m just trying to do the best job possible Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Wow. I am impressed. Your satisfaction when you were successful with the Babbitt was lovely to see. It seemed like that period was a real learning session. All the best with your enterprise.
Hi Dom, Lots of little bits, but as always you get over them , don't forget slow and take your time, it's all coming together, stay safe , All the best Brian 😃
Love the Ranalah journey Dom. Don’t forget to turn the Ranalah sign on when talking about it 👌. Don’t know if your into antique cone rollers but there’s one for sale in Crewe on FBM.
Great stuff Dom. For the interior face tinning, I was thinking you could try one of those honing tools that look like berries in a stick. It would do a better job of refacing the surface than a wire wheel. Good luck.
I would suggest that tinning may not achieve much. The rule with electrical soldered joints is that you should never rely on solder for mechanical strength, it's just for good electrical contact. If you can somehow roughen up or groove the inner surface that may be a better way of stopping the insert moving.
I have done repairs on old tin items ( a Dutch style kids doll house 60's ), it looked a breeze to re-solder, I too wire bushed etc etc but all that seemed to do was spread a grey coating all over the area as if a coating built up on the tin and abrasion just seemed to spread it not remove it even though it looked shiny and clean. The only way I could get the metal to tin was a Dremel with grind stone, when down to the bare metal it soldered like a dream until then I couldn't even reflow the existing joints. I've never seen tinning paste like that but when it comes to solder I always use lead based these modern leadless ones are very sticky and hard to work I find. For electrical solder I prefer lead/tin 3% silver
I wonder if a cylinder Hone would work? IDK, just a thought, thanks for sharing, I love watching people saving history like this. EDIT: well i stayed till the end, glad you got it!
Interested to know why you chose to TIG weld over bronze brazing? I think that brazing introduces less/ more even heat and I have had good results brazing cast iron.
Great effort. I don't want to be all nanny but with all those fumes and smoke especially if they contain lead some kind of fume extraction/ filtering would be a wise move!
Acute lead poisoning is truly scary stuff & Dom will definitely need to use precautions if he winds up doing these procedures often. Interestingly enough, even low-level lead inhalation is suspected of causing all kinds of weird damage... The drop in U.S. murder rates between the 1980's & 2000's, for example, could very well be attributable to the compulsory introduction of unleaded gasoline!
Hi Dom ive just started watching your channel & i thi k its brilliant all the thinks you get up to in your workshop is right up my street mate 😁 im an engineer by trade & like nothing better than repairing & fixing up things to so we've got a lot in common btw ive just watched your video on the "bridgeport" haven't seen one of those for ages last time i used one was at college as part of my apprenticeship.
Hi Dom I love your enthusiasm for the subject. In one of my many deep dives through engineering videos here on UA-cam I remember watching one on cold stitching. A technique designed to hold a crack together in cast pieces, stronger and less traumatic than braising/welding. Check it out, it's an old-school technique and it is also a dying art!
I was going to suggest one of those drum shaped sanding flap wheel things on a drill but glad the wire wheel on a drill did the trick. Did you do the finish to the crack repair with braze? Looked brassy to me. Top work as ever 👍
@@busman2000 It's never wise to weld cast iron the heat of fusion creates brittle carbides adjacent to the weld line. As inferred, far better to use a lower temperature "brazed" joint as it's quite strong enough without carbide enbrittled zones.
@@DominicChineas I'm sure you know welding and brazing are two very different processes. Welding involves raising the temperature of the parent material to fusing point and thus create the penetration needed for a good weld. Brazing is more akin to soldering where the material is heated only sufficiently to produce a few molecule thick alloy layer at the junction between the parent material and the filler rod.
Dom cast iron is a fairly porous metal, and consequently on a unmachined hole like that will have soaked up year and years of any oil that was put in there to lubricate the steel inserts and the moving parts. I think you need to clean it with solvent again, not to use wire wheel and re heat it again to drive out more oil contamination. If you do that a couple of times you should get it clean enough to get the solder to tin the cast.
i used to be a plumber and one thing i found to my cost at first was not allowing the carbon from the blow torch flame near anything i was soldering , always heat a joint up away from the soldering area and wait untill the flux starts boiling before you put any solder near it , wiping a lead joint is done more subtly and a lot less heat is required , at least your learning and we are learning from your mistakes too ;)
Nice video and well presented, I was expecting you to demonstrate using cast stick welding rods. Did you use special rods for tig welding cast-iron or was this tig brazing … sorry to be confused … look forward to the next one … i use too enjoy melting lead with dad in the shed when I was a kid … have fun … Nick
Keith Rucker's UA-cam channel has a LOT Of Babbitt videos and... I've never seen him or anyone else tin prior to pouring Babbitt. Degrease it? Yes. Scrubbed with a wire wheel? Yes. Preheated? Sure has to be preheated. Tinned? Nope, not ever. Might want to contact Mr. Rucker, he knows old tooling and how to repair it.
It's not necessary to tin the parts. It's just more work. Overkill. Not that it's bad. The babbitt will hold just fine. As it cools it expands holding the parts.
You should always use pure tin for tinny when Babbitting , the stuff you’re using is lead based, it will be ok probably for this job but when i did my 1934 big end’s etc you have to use pure tin otherwise they will leave the shells 👍 loving your videos 😀👍👍
@@DominicChineas that’s great, I couldn’t find any when I did my shells I just bought pure tin melted in cast iron pot( it has to be cast iron so it doesn’t contaminate the tin) very handy to know it’s out there 👍👍😀
Absolutely outstanding! Your skills are off the scale, your passion gives me butterflies, your humility is only exceeded by your intelligence. Thank you very much. Regards Gareth Wiltshire UK. Gratitude. Quality. Respect.
A friend once put his Gunked cylinder head in the dishwasher thinking that his wife was going to be out long enough. She came home and he now has his own dishwasher in his workshop and a new one in the kitchen.
as an apprentice mechanic during the 60's, the little bit of cast work I did had to be chiselled as grinding forced granules into the casting and so we chiselled out a vee for building up the weld, In my 20's I have successfully welded engine blocks where con rods came out and we would chip or shot peen the weld area to settle the structural grain (I think) as we welded, I see that that is a normal repair in modern times. davemac
Ref tin coating the components … I’m no engineer but It brings to mind soldering copper pipes while plumbing…. When soldering flux is used to ensure a clean copper removing impurities.. Would this principle also work in the Babbitt process….?
Is that silicon bronze you brazed it with ? Degrees the hole with caustic soda , Club the bottom of the hole with plasticine fill up the hole with a strong solution of caustic soda and let it soak for a few hours rinse out and try again .
@@DominicChineas yeah all good at the moment cheers dude, you still keeping yaself out of trouble? The unit next to me has just had all new sockets and lights put up and the one the other side has its own car park, get ya arse into one of them so I've got something interesting to be nosey at! 🤣
The only time I ever did soldering on cast I used Duzall solder flux to get the tinning to work... it is acidic, from memory a zinc based product... zinc chloride usually, and works well, but if you have some hydrochloric acid try that first to clean.degrease.. then the duzall
Hi Dom I have poured leaf for fixing iron work and grandpa showed me how this process was done on steam engines. A acid was used to clean the iron work, I guess like modern flux, then the lead mix would be poured in. I think your on the right track good luck with it.
It's the "show all"good and bad that makes these videos so interesting and enjoyable. Your inthusiasm is so contagious. Keep the videos coming Dom...
Thank you!
Really good progress there Dom. Please don't apologise over mistakes or things taking longer; seeing the mistakes & things keeps more real.
Keep at it Dom. Who has never tried to do something they are unsure of? It’s essential we follow that inquisitive nature to develop learning. Loved the fixing of the cast part. I’ve often wondered how such a fix was done. Many thanks, Wayne
Over filling the Colchester coolant tank is part of the initiation process. You can add an overflow pipe to that finger hole, and run it to a tray at the front to give yourself a bit of a back up.
Been there, done that. Like you say, rite of passage!
Well done for showing all the "didn't go quite right" moments, we can all learn from that and it shows that engineering can be fraught with hazards and uncertainties👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Ah; my weekly engineering fix completed. Another fascinating and instructive video Dom. An added bonus too; of an insight into some of your future plans for expanding your enterprise. It will be great following progress!
I found an old flannel bedsheet that I was going to cut up into rags, was rather handy for mopping up the overflowing coolant. I think most of us have done the same when first setting up a Colchester. The tank sat inside is considerably smaller than would first be expected looking at the size of the lathe. Wrapping cast iron in an old fire blanket helps slow the cooling process down nicely.
I felt your pain describing when you found the crack, glad you seem to have managed to fix it OK !
I think you did well getting that old cast iron to tin. One of the most active fluxes that you can use is Killed Spirits or Bakers Fluid. I also think the old lead solder is a lot better than the new lead free stuff.
You have the right attitude here, have a go, if it fails you get experience, if it works you make a note of what you did! I would be very surprised if you were able to tin cast iron! I really cannot see the need to as the babbit will go into and small depressions in the casting and prevent movement of the bush, if you want to make it extra locked you can machine radial grooves in the housing, and providing to casting is heated up before you pour the babbit it will form a mechanical bond, good luck! Chris B.
Well done Dom, your slowly getting there, if you spill any more coolant , don’t use a mop, use a spade or shovel and pour it into a bowl or something, that’s what we do at work, 👍👍.
A lot of people call brazing welding, it isn't! Welding is melting the parent metals together, brazing is using a bras or bronze filler which joins the two metals without changing the structure of the metals to be joined. You could try Bakers fluid which is a hydrochloric acid based flux when tinning the cast iron.
Cheers, Matthew
Thanks for the info, appreciate it
Agreed 100%. See my comment up-thread.
Serious bit of cast welding - very impressive.
That's brazing...
Dom, so fantastic to see the progress. Yes binging this now also😊😊
Your videos are always entertaining and instructional. Thank you for inviting us along on this historic journey!
Fine work, Experts on tinning cast iron I guess are few , used special fluxes but only tiny areas/ I agree, probably not wetted origionally. fixed the clicky knee on new bridgeport and adjusted x y backlash .
Hello Dom,
An enjoyable video, thank you... Good to see the tinning got done, well done... I am not sure if you are aware of Keith Ruckers channel as he has done quite a few restorations with babbitt bearings. See you next Sunday...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hello Dominic!
I have been watching really interesting your videos . I have Ranalah too . I bought at in England couple years ago . It was poor condition.The problem was that it wasn’t lined up with upper and lower wheel (machine was fall down some age ) and the upper wheels axle was bended . We managed straighten the axle without melt and renew the axle. The machinist told me that the axle were not been tinned ,even it looks like so . He mentioned that substance what they been used that time is not shrinking is it spreading . He dosen’t remenber the special substance name but he said that metallurigies use that nowsdays also.
Amazing thank you for your information, if you ever need new parts just let me know
@@DominicChineas How about chemical metal ? Is it hard enough?
I enjoyed watching that Dom. It was interesting watching you solve the problems you encountered. I always enjoyed fixing my problems, it's very satisfying. As for things in the oven, I've lost count of the times I've put my bike/car spark plugs in to warm them or dry them. Have a good week Dom and thanks for filming it all.👍🙂
Parts in the oven, walnut tumbling media(bagged...) in the washing machine & maggots(fishing bait) in the fridge.
There are many advantages to terminating the idea of shared living space. 😁
Find some bakers soldering fluid, it will clean the oxidised layer and get a good bond with the tinning compound.
Pretty nasty stuff but it does the business, I think it's got hydrochloric acid in as the cleaning medium but I cant be sure now. It's a long time since i last used it but if you do Dom wear a very good filter mask or ever a pumped air helmet as the fumes are bloody awful lol
@@samrodian919 it’s hydrochloric acid with a saturation of zinc. Lovely stuff
Thank you I use this at the repair shop, I should have brought it back with me?
@@DominicChineas it’s great stuff, makes solder stick where you wouldn’t expect it to. Although personally I’ve never tinned before pouring Babbitt
Excellent work, Dom. I remember the solder paste from a brief foray into lead loading. Good stuff. I will watch with interest when you do the babbitt pour. I don't know if you are familiar but Keith Rucker has featured babbitt pours a few times in his videos. I could sense your excitement at the end there, that's just the way it is sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
I watched Keith assessing Jimmy Diresta’s 4’ wheel bandsaw. That was a detailed episode and where I first heard of Babbitt. It’s all very interesting!
Thank you Dom for the Ranalah update. Coming along nicely. To bad about the crack, however it looks like the crack may have been repaired. Looking forward to more progress updates!! Cheers
Love your films and the way you explain your processing the challenges you meet. Great work Dom.
Great work Dom. Keep showing the mistakes. Nobody believes it when everything works perfectly 😁
Are you going to covered the “Tinned” parts to keep them clean ?
Mask 👍👍👍 Fume extractor system please.! We protect eyes fingers (and jumpers!) - so look after those lungs as well! You're doing a great job - thank you!
I have found lead free solder is difficult to use. Have a good stock of 60/40 solder should out last me. Great what you are doing.
Thanks Dom and no need to apologize if something goes wrong, we are all learning through you. Once again great content.
Tinning cast iron is very, very hard, pickling in Sulfuric acid helps. Are you sure it was tinned originally though. Normally if there's knobbles and lumps welded or cast on, it's more a structural bond than a chemical one they depend on. I've done a lot of white metal (Babbit) bearings in my time, working for a firm who specialise in casting and machining vintage car bearings. And when there where knobbles, there was no tinning. Also, is there a reason your using Babbit? I would have assumed the original would have been cheaper lead.
Keep up the good work, it's lovely seeing the old tools brought back to life.
That’s really interesting, knobbles and bumps are all there on the parts, I assume the rough surface of the casting inside the holes helps too..
It doesn’t seem like any of the originals I’ve taken apart were tinned, I’m just trying to do the best job possible
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
@@DominicChineas No problem. I would check out what you melted out of the old one. I bet it was lead and not Babbit.
The cast iron repair was tig brazed, not welded, judging by the yellow colour of the finished job?
Dear Dominic, Perhaps you should be using type metal. It expands very slightly as it solidifies and would ensure a tight fit.
Now we just need to get you to take on the T.Norton Fly Press Project.
Good work using tig braze bronze on that crack. Thats the best repair choice. 2nd would be nickel 55 rod.
Wow. I am impressed. Your satisfaction when you were successful with the Babbitt was lovely to see. It seemed like that period was a real learning session. All the best with your enterprise.
Hi Dom, grinding rather than wire brushing might yield more fruitful results. Good luck. Steve, Langdon Hills Essex.
Hi Dom, Lots of little bits, but as always you get over them , don't forget slow and take your time, it's all coming together, stay safe , All the best Brian 😃
Great work Dom, love how you give things a bash, all part of learning, thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much for the support
Love the Ranalah journey Dom. Don’t forget to turn the Ranalah sign on when talking about it 👌. Don’t know if your into antique cone rollers but there’s one for sale in Crewe on FBM.
Thank you, me forgetting to turn the sign on is going to become a thing! Haha
Great stuff Dom. For the interior face tinning, I was thinking you could try one of those honing tools that look like berries in a stick. It would do a better job of refacing the surface than a wire wheel. Good luck.
That’s not a bad idea! Thank you
Well done Dom, you got there in the end!!😊👍
I learn something new every time I watch you brilliant cheers
"Have a cup of tea and a think." Solves any problem.
Good show!!! next time, remember to turn on the Ranalah sign... :D
Well done Dom trial & error always works .
I’ll get there in the end!
Another fantastic video, thank you, really looking forward to the next one.
Thanks, next weeks video we pour the babbitt! It’s a good one!
I would suggest that tinning may not achieve much. The rule with electrical soldered joints is that you should never rely on solder for mechanical strength, it's just for good electrical contact. If you can somehow roughen up or groove the inner surface that may be a better way of stopping the insert moving.
Yes I think you are right, it didn’t really make any difference at all
If it hadn't worked I was going to suggest using a rotary burr to gring down a few lines inside to at least tin those areas and provide a key.
I have done repairs on old tin items ( a Dutch style kids doll house 60's ), it looked a breeze to re-solder, I too wire bushed etc etc but all that seemed to do was spread a grey coating all over the area as if a coating built up on the tin and abrasion just seemed to spread it not remove it even though it looked shiny and clean. The only way I could get the metal to tin was a Dremel with grind stone, when down to the bare metal it soldered like a dream until then I couldn't even reflow the existing joints. I've never seen tinning paste like that but when it comes to solder I always use lead based these modern leadless ones are very sticky and hard to work I find. For electrical solder I prefer lead/tin 3% silver
Good man Dom, glad you sorted the tinning issue. As for the crack, looks like you’ve sorted out okay. Great video. See you next time
I wonder if a cylinder Hone would work? IDK, just a thought, thanks for sharing, I love watching people saving history like this.
EDIT: well i stayed till the end, glad you got it!
Great video Dominic, glad to see you found your welding jacket. Also, you never put Ranalah neon on.
Interested to know why you chose to TIG weld over bronze brazing? I think that brazing introduces less/ more even heat and I have had good results brazing cast iron.
Hi Dom, very interesting, I use cat litter to mop up spilled oil. Will the cast Iron shrink more than the babbit when it cools?
Very inspiring! Couple of questions: What kind of rod did you use to weld the crack? How did you ensure a gradual cool down?
Great effort. I don't want to be all nanny but with all those fumes and smoke especially if they contain lead some kind of fume extraction/ filtering would be a wise move!
Yet you couldn't resist...
@@ShainAndrews You can as snarky as you like but we only he one set of lungs and lead fume are a pretty terminal way to screw them up.
Acute lead poisoning is truly scary stuff & Dom will definitely need to use precautions if he winds up doing these procedures often. Interestingly enough, even low-level lead inhalation is suspected of causing all kinds of weird damage... The drop in U.S. murder rates between the 1980's & 2000's, for example, could very well be attributable to the compulsory introduction of unleaded gasoline!
Hi Dom ive just started watching your channel & i thi k its brilliant all the thinks you get up to in your workshop is right up my street mate 😁 im an engineer by trade & like nothing better than repairing & fixing up things to so we've got a lot in common btw ive just watched your video on the "bridgeport" haven't seen one of those for ages last time i used one was at college as part of my apprenticeship.
Hi Dom I love your enthusiasm for the subject. In one of my many deep dives through engineering videos here on UA-cam I remember watching one on cold stitching. A technique designed to hold a crack together in cast pieces, stronger and less traumatic than braising/welding. Check it out, it's an old-school technique and it is also a dying art!
BS
Nope. Search it yourself. I'll wait.
I was going to suggest one of those drum shaped sanding flap wheel things on a drill but glad the wire wheel on a drill did the trick. Did you do the finish to the crack repair with braze? Looked brassy to me. Top work as ever 👍
I believe Dom used Phosphor/Bronze welding rods for his TIG welder. That's why it looks brassy. Dom will correct me if I am choking on my foot.lol
@@busman2000 It's never wise to weld cast iron the heat of fusion creates brittle carbides adjacent to the weld line. As inferred, far better to use a lower temperature "brazed" joint as it's quite strong enough without carbide enbrittled zones.
Looks like John and Charles are guiding you on this journey. Either that or the boys from Brown Boggs are getting revenge.
Maybe they are watching down!
Keep at it and remember you never stop learning we are sure you will get it working 💪
Keep up the good work Dom.👍👍
Cat litter is good for dealing with spillages.
Dom, please tell me what did you use as a filler rod for welding the cast iron?
Crack welding, exactly how I was shown as an apprentice in the 70s, however we used an ark welder
THIS IS NOT WELDING
Who cares what you call it
Thanks Jim for the kind words
@@DominicChineas I'm sure you know welding and brazing are two very different processes. Welding involves raising the temperature of the parent material to fusing point and thus create the penetration needed for a good weld. Brazing is more akin to soldering where the material is heated only sufficiently to produce a few molecule thick alloy layer at the junction between the parent material and the filler rod.
That's an assinine remark...
@@horacerumpole6912 Don't you mean asinine?
Well done as always. Your skills will always win the day.
Ahhh Dom’; that Defender is still there, & summer is coming….?
Argh I know!!!
Dom cast iron is a fairly porous metal, and consequently on a unmachined hole like that will have soaked up year and years of any oil that was put in there to lubricate the steel inserts and the moving parts. I think you need to clean it with solvent again, not to use wire wheel and re heat it again to drive out more oil contamination. If you do that a couple of times you should get it clean enough to get the solder to tin the cast.
i used to be a plumber and one thing i found to my cost at first was not allowing the carbon from the blow torch flame near anything i was soldering , always heat a joint up away from the soldering area and wait untill the flux starts boiling before you put any solder near it , wiping a lead joint is done more subtly and a lot less heat is required , at least your learning and we are learning from your mistakes too ;)
Dom have you tried some kind of "Active Flux" that will clean the surfaces and protect from oxidation while heating it up ?
Was just thinking that. Phosphoric acid would work wonders if it was brass. I've never tinned iron but I would think the process would be similar.
I would suggest that metal stitching, a la Metalock is a safer and stronger way to repair cracked castings. .
Hi Dom I would of thought that the inside wall of the casting would be course enough to hold the babit ok.
Yeah, I think that’s how they did it, the originals don’t seem to be tinned
Hi Dom, good work on figuring the tinning. I am curious about your comment about Ranalah servicing. How many original Ranalahs are out there still?
There’s quite a few!
I enjoy the process
Over filling a Colchester Lathe gets everyone and it won't be the last time.
Nice video and well presented, I was expecting you to demonstrate using cast stick welding rods. Did you use special rods for tig welding cast-iron or was this tig brazing … sorry to be confused … look forward to the next one … i use too enjoy melting lead with dad in the shed when I was a kid … have fun … Nick
Keith Rucker's UA-cam channel has a LOT Of Babbitt videos and... I've never seen him or anyone else tin prior to pouring Babbitt. Degrease it? Yes. Scrubbed with a wire wheel? Yes. Preheated? Sure has to be preheated. Tinned? Nope, not ever. Might want to contact Mr. Rucker, he knows old tooling and how to repair it.
Also, Babbitt is a bearing material. If you just need to fix a fitting? You could use almost anything and won't have to worry about lead issues.
Keith Rucker or Adam Booth would have brazed the crack in cast iron.
@@keithgutshall9559 think by the colour of the finished repair, he did braze it, but kept referring to it as a weld?
@@geneard639 the point of the exercise is to keep it original - so he's re-manufacturing the Ranalah exactly as it was originally made...!
Keith Fenner pours better babbitt
Keep going , your onto a winner 👍
The old cast iron was probably porous ? Very difficult to remove from the iron. You'll get there . We'll done ✔
It's not necessary to tin the parts. It's just more work. Overkill. Not that it's bad. The babbitt will hold just fine. As it cools it expands holding the parts.
try fry's fry-o-lux for tinning your brass work.
Thank you but it’s all steel/cast iron!
You should always use pure tin for tinny when Babbitting , the stuff you’re using is lead based, it will be ok probably for this job but when i did my 1934 big end’s etc you have to use pure tin otherwise they will leave the shells 👍 loving your videos 😀👍👍
The second tub of tinning paste is pure tin, it’s not lead based
Thank you for watching!
@@DominicChineas that’s great, I couldn’t find any when I did my shells I just bought pure tin melted in cast iron pot( it has to be cast iron so it doesn’t contaminate the tin) very handy to know it’s out there 👍👍😀
Hi Dom, great crack repair! Out of interest, what filler rod did you use when you were welding it up?
Cheers
It was a bronze rod, I think it was c11 but I’d have to check
The Colchester was just marking it's new territory.
Absolutely outstanding!
Your skills are off the scale, your passion gives me butterflies, your humility is only exceeded by your intelligence. Thank you very much. Regards Gareth Wiltshire UK. Gratitude. Quality. Respect.
Brilliant job!
Keep up the good work great video as always
A friend once put his Gunked cylinder head in the dishwasher thinking that his wife was going to be out long enough. She came home and he now has his own dishwasher in his workshop and a new one in the kitchen.
as an apprentice mechanic during the 60's, the little bit of cast work I did had to be chiselled as grinding forced granules into the casting and so we chiselled out a vee for building up the weld, In my 20's I have successfully welded engine blocks where con rods came out and we would chip or shot peen the weld area to settle the structural grain (I think) as we welded, I see that that is a normal repair in modern times. davemac
Ref tin coating the components …
I’m no engineer but
It brings to mind soldering copper pipes while plumbing…. When soldering flux is used to ensure a clean copper removing impurities..
Would this principle also work in the Babbitt process….?
Dom to of cleaned the cast iron bore and remove embedded dirt using expanding reamer would of helped.
Hi Dom, what was the filler for the welding? Was it a nickel rod? Good work I hate welding cast!
Is that silicon bronze you brazed it with ?
Degrees the hole with caustic soda , Club the bottom of the hole with plasticine fill up the hole with a strong solution of caustic soda and let it soak for a few hours rinse out and try again .
I bet you get some nice metal splinters dude!! 🤣
Got 2 units on the estate empty now mate if you need something bigger x
Hey!
I do need more space! Hope your doing well
@@DominicChineas yeah all good at the moment cheers dude, you still keeping yaself out of trouble?
The unit next to me has just had all new sockets and lights put up and the one the other side has its own car park, get ya arse into one of them so I've got something interesting to be nosey at! 🤣
The only time I ever did soldering on cast I used Duzall solder flux to get the tinning to work... it is acidic, from memory a zinc based product... zinc chloride usually, and works well, but if you have some hydrochloric acid try that first to clean.degrease.. then the duzall
Thank you! I’ll try get some
There is currently a Ranalah bodied Rolls Royce on eBay - maybe another little side project for the workshop 😂🤫
Get your self some fire blankets and wrap the weld up like a present 😂
Makes it cool down slower.
Theres a ranalah the same as yours for sale on Facebook at the moment.
Could you run a small hone inside would clean and polish like a engine cylinder
Great progress Dom. The mistakes make it all the more interesting. Keep up the good work!
I am definitely learning a lot
I think we are all learning a lot Dom!