Dom on the repair shop , nice lady who does the leather repairs was restoring a grandads leather apron, and the grandson showed a picture of his grandfather wearing said apron.sitting at a ranalah rolling machine curving a sheet of material,it was a a very quick cut but thought you might not have known.and you could see the top wheel being used.
Nice Job Dom ! I have 2 observations going forward. First and foremost, you really need to be wearing a respirator while grinding that babbitt. That dust is not to be messed with, and has nasty consequences down the road. Secondly, I have poured a fair share of babbitt over the years, mostly larger pours for crankshaft bearings on antique single cylinder oil field engines. I have found that simple "Play-Doh" works extremely well for sealing, and dam building. it is pliable, and remains soft after the pour for easier cleanup.
It is safer to scrape the babbitt than to grind it. The alloy is virtually designed for scraping. You can use wood chisels to do this. Plus you get a nicer finish.
@@tonyray91 Of course he could buy a set of Engineers 'machine' scrapers they are less than £10 each from Kennedy. I think they are harder then wood chisels having tried to sharpen mine. At the price it is probably easier to buy replacements than struggle with sharpening them. They are useful for removing all sorts of odd small lumps on metal including burrs.
What an inspirational education you have given all of us who have discovered your channel. I have seen and played with an "English Wheel" during my 25 years as an aircraft mechanic but never understood the importance or the significance that the Ranalah wheel has played in the world of metal fabrication all over the world. As I watched a documentary about the WW II manufacture of the B-24 at the Willow Run factory, in the U.S.A., I caught a glimpse of a number of Ranalah wheel machines in several of the sequences of that production line. You, I'm, sure understand the importance of the worlds "rediscovery" and "reintroduction" of the Ranalah Wheel, YOU have brought about. You have, through your passion for the nearly lost talents and arts of previous generations, have given us a new understanding and appreciation of that which we take for granted. Thank you for all your efforts, your thoughtfulness and your dedication to the preservation of what was so close to being lost. All your work is greatly appreciated even on the U.S. side of the pond. Stay well and be safe.
Random supporter of the channel, met you in a metal stockist recently, nice to chat. Very impressed with your Ranalah progress. Can wait to see the top bearing and what you can do with Ranalah.
Have you seen the damning compound that kieth Rucker uses at Vintage Machinery (you tube)? Its like grey playdoe with fiberglass or something. you can shape it by hand and its re-usable. It lets you build dams around your babet to control the flow. Its what you need.
Good video what’s the name of the material you used for making the dam for the Babbitt as I couldn’t find the correct stuff and used clay ? I was surprised that you had a masked for poring the Babbitt BUT not in the most dangerous part where you ground if as there’s a lot of lead in it & Tin is not good for you!
Your babbit pour was fine. I really liked how you worked that pot to give it a "long reach" spout! Have to admit I was a bit worried there might be some kind of chemical reaction between the babbit and teflon coating, and I was glad to see it worked out so well. I have no doubt that the joints will last a thousand years - you did quality work there, and should be proud of what you've accomplished. Now I just need to talk you into taking on the T.Norton fly press project. We can't let it leave the British Isles, so lets get at least one of them cast!
Try and get yourself an ER32 or ER40 collet chuck and collets for the Bridgeport to replace the Clarkson Autolock system, the best thing I did on my mill was swapping to ER collets, much easier and much more versatile, I have ER chucks for my mill and my Colchester, and you can still use the old screwed shank milling cutters with the ER collets. The cheap ER collet sets on ebay are accurate enough for most of the work you will need, and an R8 ER chuck is not overly expensive.
Well done!! It looks really solid. Looking forward to seeing you pour the horizontal bearing. The photography was excellent from start to finish, it didn't spoil anything for me and I think for most of us watching. Good luck from Spain!!
Love seeing the re-learning of old skills. Don't sell yourself short on camera work dedicate time to master the basics like you do for the other things you like. Can wait to see these share some Porsche parts!
I'm loving this project, another great video. Can I just also add that I really appreciate that you leave in mistakes and problems that you encounter, I think it is a really important lesson of engineering and making that things go wrong, and you can always learn from them. I feel like too many maker shows make it look so simple, which is just not the way real life works, and sets unrealistic expectations for people wanting to learn.
Well done Dan look forward to seeing the next installment. The milling machine took me back to 50 years to my dad's workshop. Can still smell the soluble oil and hot metal now.
Yet another great video Dom. The camera shots did not suffer, I bet no one had noticed! Good luck and best wishes to Camera Dan. Acn't wait for the next video!!!!
First job i had was in a foundry, giving the molten metal a good stir with a wooden stick is also a method of removing dissolved gasses from the metal and improves the quality of the cast.
loved every minute of it 😊, seeing the highs and the lows of a learning experience , then seeing it all come together in the end , great little video that was 👍
Hi Dom Really enjoy your videos and your methodical approach. One comment from a former fitter machinist is the gap on the v mill collect chuck lock collar. Should there be one? Reason is we were taught to make sure the centre hole in the top of the end or slot mill on smaller tool bits didn’t shatter when the collar is done up with the spanner, particularly on smaller tool bits. It was on a half turn to tighten once the tool bit is in contact with the centre location pin. May be your collet chuck has a step on the lock ring? A high flow - tipped cutter would eat that flat without any coolant. Might have been a bit of vibration on a Bridgeport though😆
This continues to be a great series of videos, I've enjoyed the journey so far and look forward to the next step. Well done! I've some experience of casting tin based alloys using high temperature silicone moulds. A slightly oversized disk of HT silicone that fits on top of the steel washer should create a good seal when tightened. It would also have the advantage of being re-useable. I have to say, the "Play-Doh" method described by Vic below also sounds interesting. Either method would leave you with less clean-up.
Not all the way into the video, but get yourself a dead-blow mallet for the mill. Using a copper hide one will often bounce - edited to add, it will bounce the job in the vice. And add to that, get yourself some of the thin parallels (the blocks for sitting stuff on in the vice if you’re not aware). Using a think one laid flat under the job means that when you tap it down, you can always feel that the job has pinched it down flat.
For the temperature check with the white metal, my older brother said that they use brown paper as a guide, i.e. when it catches alight. He did his time as a fitter and turner in a shipyard doing engines and gearboxes 50 years ago in NZ.
I am surprised the Teflon in the saucepan survived - I am not sure what temperature the Babbit is at but the fumes from overheated Teflow (PTFE) contain fluorine gas that is lethal even in small quantities. I suggest you get a proper crucible or a plain steel saucepan.
When you have a tiny leak, just block it with your "lolly stick" and horse on! You didn't need the mask when you poured, but grinding babbit! That's lead alloy dust you can't see in the air! Glad to see it well poured!!
Glad you got it sorted, funny how the video is 28mins long, but took you all day to sort this 🙊 also ice creams 😳he never told me about that!! Cheeky!! Lol xx
well done Dom like the PPE when pouring then fill your lungs and workshop when grinding do it all the time excitement and get it done keep at it, what sort of money will one of these cost to buy ? thanks
Excellent work, Dom. Don't sweat the videography. It's not television, it's youtube. The content is king. I do my best to make videos and after trying many formats of camera I have settled on using a decent smartphone. Simple can be better sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
Babbit pouring temperature is well within the capabilities of modern high-temperature silicone, whether in the form of pre-made orings or make-your-own-seal RTV silicone you're probably familliar with. Either could work as a sealing element between the washer and the cast iron. Of course, in the latter case, this means putting a bead on the washer and letting it cure to form a permanently attached oring-like seal, not putting it on fresh before a pour - the advantage here being that you can put it on however thick it needs to be to seal when compressed. If that actually works, it would be a huge time-saver, with a lot less prep and cleanup needed.
what a cracking video it just makes you appreciate what old time machinists blacksmiths could do with a lump of metal really good looking forward to the next good luck to Dan make sure he sets up the camera before leaves
Hi Dom. You could try a piece of silicone rubber sheet 3-6mm thick as a gasket between the Ranala and jig when pouring your babbitt. It should take up any gaps and come away cleanly and be reusable for many pours.
Very interesting. I wonder if fire cement would make a good damming compound? Set it up and warm it gently with a flame to get the cement to go off. Then break it off after doing the babbing!
Great video Dom you really took me back to when my grandad and uncle made lead fishing weights melting down the lead in a pan like your in my nans kicthen oh so many great memories 👍🏻 thanks
So glad it all worked out well for you Dom, the way things went for you in this video just proved one thing, you need a right hand man 24/7, lol,can’t wait for the next stage,👍👍.
Hide under the weather this would help we use EP DM rubber my Which I think has a temperature range of 250° C may be worth using that as a rubber seal on the bottom just an idea mate
Dom, that was really exciting! Sure, things will improve and smooth-out as you get practice, but the first effort was great. And isn’t it true we learn more from our mistakes than our first-time successes? Loved it. Les PS, another tantalising view of THAT Bantam. C’mon, a rebuild into ISDT replica Bantam. One came to light a couple of years ago, so there are photos available to make it happen! Les
Maybe, as a form of experiment, you could try (ply)wood and leather to seal the bottoms for casting. This would also allow you to create a seal with a casting channel for the horizontal one.
Dom that was a brilliant episode in the Ranalagh project. Don't be despondent about the tinning of the parts. You can't say at this stage it hasn't been a success, as 20, 40, 60 years have not gone by since you poured it. Your reasoning for tinning the steel and cast parts has logic behind it and as you heated up at least the cast parts prior to pouring the Babbet, science tell you that similar metals will bond better than dis-similar ones so I bet the bond between those parts are BETTER than the original. One thing on tramming the Bridgeport, before you start doing ANY of the tramming of said mills, the tables must be CLEAN. Get yourself a proper stone, and rub it over the table, removing the rust grunge and any dings, then clean it, using a good brake cleaner to get rid of the crap. Only then should you tram the table to your satisfaction, then mount the vice. Only this will ensure your milling work is accurate. This is the only slight criticism I have in your video today. Keep them coming mate!
I get using babbitt on the original but on the 2 you had cast would it not have made more sense to not cast the holes and line bore all the holes for press fit parts? That would make it easier in the future to service
Hello Dom. I don’t know whether I missed an explanation on a previous video, but I am wondering what the purpose of pouring the Babbit is. Is this to take up any differences in the exactness of lateral and axial dimensions in relation to the cast surfaces of the main body of the Ranalah? Apologies if you have been through this previously. Kind regards. Stan
When adding to a lot of molten rabbit make sure you do not introduce water into the melt it will throw the molten metal out of the pot. I find yellow is a good flux for lead it helps if you ignite the fumes. This is most interesting. Thanks
Lead amd liquid metals used for fixing thinks. There are many victorian garden walls with missing iron railings and stubs leaded into the capstones. electronic components soldering. 01005
love the vajayo! I am 15:48 into it and just wanted to say as someone who casts lead bullets, you want to add about 2% tin to the lead, at 2%+ it gives you better mold filling properties when casting bullets. I am told silver will do the same? keep up the great work!!!!!
Does the same jig also align the horizontal axle? If so, I'd have thought you would leave it on there and set the horizontal axle before removing the jig. Of course, you might have a different plan for that stage, obviously, the machine will have to be laid on its back to do that pour. Looking forward to seeing the finished article! Was chatting to a friend of mine the other day who worked at Filton (on Concorde!) and he related a tale about a couple of old guys in one of the shops making parts for the English Electric Lightning, from stainless steel on English wheels. No idea if they were Ranalahs, though.
Brilliant Dom! Would you be able to melt the Babbitt in something with a measure on it so that you could work out exactly how much you need for each pour? Then you would get it spot on every time
Dom on the repair shop , nice lady who does the leather repairs was restoring a grandads leather apron, and the grandson showed a picture of his grandfather wearing said apron.sitting at a ranalah rolling machine curving a sheet of material,it was a a very quick cut but thought you might not have known.and you could see the top wheel being used.
Best part of the video? Dan's reaction when you blame him 😂😂
Loving catching up on the series though Dom. Keep it up.
Nice Job Dom ! I have 2 observations going forward. First and foremost, you really need to be wearing a respirator while grinding that babbitt. That dust is not to be messed with, and has nasty consequences down the road.
Secondly, I have poured a fair share of babbitt over the years, mostly larger pours for crankshaft bearings on antique single cylinder oil field engines. I have found that simple "Play-Doh" works extremely well for sealing, and dam building. it is pliable, and remains soft after the pour for easier cleanup.
It is safer to scrape the babbitt than to grind it. The alloy is virtually designed for scraping.
You can use wood chisels to do this. Plus you get a nicer finish.
Thank you but I wasn’t grinding Babbitt just removing the paste
Play-Doh ... Who'd a thought!
A wood chisel re ground to a machine scraper profile would work really well.
@@tonyray91 Of course he could buy a set of Engineers 'machine' scrapers they are less than £10 each from Kennedy. I think they are harder then wood chisels having tried to sharpen mine. At the price it is probably easier to buy replacements than struggle with sharpening them. They are useful for removing all sorts of odd small lumps on metal including burrs.
What an inspirational education you have given all of us who have discovered your channel. I have seen and played with an "English Wheel" during my 25 years as an aircraft mechanic but never understood the importance or the significance that the Ranalah wheel has played in the world of metal fabrication all over the world. As I watched a documentary about the WW II manufacture of the B-24 at the Willow Run factory, in the U.S.A., I caught a glimpse of a number of Ranalah wheel machines in several of the sequences of that production line.
You, I'm, sure understand the importance of the worlds "rediscovery" and "reintroduction" of the Ranalah Wheel, YOU have brought about. You have, through your passion for the nearly lost talents and arts of previous generations, have given us a new understanding and appreciation of that which we take for granted. Thank you for all your efforts, your thoughtfulness and your dedication to the preservation of what was so close to being lost. All your work is greatly appreciated even on the U.S. side of the pond. Stay well and be safe.
Loved the way Dan got you with his " It's upside down" comment. Ah, brothers...
Random supporter of the channel, met you in a metal stockist recently, nice to chat. Very impressed with your Ranalah progress. Can wait to see the top bearing and what you can do with Ranalah.
Have you seen the damning compound that kieth Rucker uses at Vintage Machinery (you tube)? Its like grey playdoe with fiberglass or something. you can shape it by hand and its re-usable. It lets you build dams around your babet to control the flow. Its what you need.
Good video what’s the name of the material you used for making the dam for the Babbitt as I couldn’t find the correct stuff and used clay ? I was surprised that you had a masked for poring the Babbitt BUT not in the most dangerous part where you ground if as there’s a lot of lead in it & Tin is not good for you!
Your babbit pour was fine. I really liked how you worked that pot to give it a "long reach" spout! Have to admit I was a bit worried there might be some kind of chemical reaction between the babbit and teflon coating, and I was glad to see it worked out so well. I have no doubt that the joints will last a thousand years - you did quality work there, and should be proud of what you've accomplished.
Now I just need to talk you into taking on the T.Norton fly press project. We can't let it leave the British Isles, so lets get at least one of them cast!
Try and get yourself an ER32 or ER40 collet chuck and collets for the Bridgeport to replace the Clarkson Autolock system, the best thing I did on my mill was swapping to ER collets, much easier and much more versatile, I have ER chucks for my mill and my Colchester, and you can still use the old screwed shank milling cutters with the ER collets. The cheap ER collet sets on ebay are accurate enough for most of the work you will need, and an R8 ER chuck is not overly expensive.
Thank you, I will look for one
I don't know if you have seen them, but Keith Rucker has a number of YT videos regarding pouring babbitt metal and repairing cast iron.
Well done!! It looks really solid. Looking forward to seeing you pour the horizontal bearing. The photography was excellent from start to finish, it didn't spoil anything for me and I think for most of us watching. Good luck from Spain!!
Good luck Dan. Well done on your contribution to making The Repair Shop such a success. Make sure Dom keeps us up to date with your new adventures!
Love seeing the re-learning of old skills. Don't sell yourself short on camera work dedicate time to master the basics like you do for the other things you like. Can wait to see these share some Porsche parts!
I'm loving this project, another great video. Can I just also add that I really appreciate that you leave in mistakes and problems that you encounter, I think it is a really important lesson of engineering and making that things go wrong, and you can always learn from them. I feel like too many maker shows make it look so simple, which is just not the way real life works, and sets unrealistic expectations for people wanting to learn.
Well done Dom, good you had Dan there to keep you straight. Looking forward to seeing your Ramallah in action.
Well done Dan look forward to seeing the next installment. The milling machine took me back to 50 years to my dad's workshop. Can still smell the soluble oil and hot metal now.
Fascinating. Thanks Dom. Best wishes
That was a great watch Dom - Dan is a clever lad. Well done boys.👍
Yet another great video Dom. The camera shots did not suffer, I bet no one had noticed! Good luck and best wishes to Camera Dan. Acn't wait for the next video!!!!
Your helper looks and sounds like the guy from the Photonicinduction channel. Great vid!
I've no experience with the skills you used with Dan but the result and set up look great. Congratulations and here's to seeing the Ranalah working.
Great Dom, and all the best to both Dan's !!!>
First job i had was in a foundry, giving the molten metal a good stir with a wooden stick is also a method of removing dissolved gasses from the metal and improves the quality of the cast.
Great work. Really enjoy your videos and your willingness to try something new.
Hi Dom im late to these vids but enjoying your journey lots of innovation
Great job getting the Ranalah finished Thanks Dom and Thanks Dan HAPPY EASTER
A great video Dom, well done and it was fantastic to see you two brothers working so well together. Kind regards, Richard.
Nicely done, another step completed
Boom!!
Great to see so much progress.
loved every minute of it 😊, seeing the highs and the lows of a learning experience , then seeing it all come together in the end , great little video that was 👍
Excellent, glad you warmed up the casting before you poured, 🦘 👍👍
Great job well done Dom 👍I'm looking forward to seeing the next video ♥️ keep up the good work 😊
Brilliant! How great to see the jig absolutely do its job perfectly. Good job learning by doing on the babbitt.
Coming together nicely now Dom.
Hi Dom
Really enjoy your videos and your methodical approach. One comment from a former fitter machinist is the gap on the v mill collect chuck lock collar. Should there be one? Reason is we were taught to make sure the centre hole in the top of the end or slot mill on smaller tool bits didn’t shatter when the collar is done up with the spanner, particularly on smaller tool bits.
It was on a half turn to tighten once the tool bit is in contact with the centre location pin.
May be your collet chuck has a step on the lock ring?
A high flow - tipped cutter would eat that flat without any coolant. Might have been a bit of vibration on a Bridgeport though😆
I love that show, the repair shop. They can fix anything!
This continues to be a great series of videos, I've enjoyed the journey so far and look forward to the next step. Well done! I've some experience of casting tin based alloys using high temperature silicone moulds. A slightly oversized disk of HT silicone that fits on top of the steel washer should create a good seal when tightened. It would also have the advantage of being re-useable. I have to say, the "Play-Doh" method described by Vic below also sounds interesting. Either method would leave you with less clean-up.
Brilliant work Dom
Not all the way into the video, but get yourself a dead-blow mallet for the mill. Using a copper hide one will often bounce - edited to add, it will bounce the job in the vice. And add to that, get yourself some of the thin parallels (the blocks for sitting stuff on in the vice if you’re not aware). Using a think one laid flat under the job means that when you tap it down, you can always feel that the job has pinched it down flat.
Oh my Dom. You seemed to have forgotten your PPE when grinding the babbit. You naughty boy!
Wonderful ! What better to watch on a lazy Sunday than proper old school engineering, love it ! Well done chaps
Throughly enjoying these vids
For the temperature check with the white metal, my older brother said that they use brown paper as a guide, i.e. when it catches alight. He did his time as a fitter and turner in a shipyard doing engines and gearboxes 50 years ago in NZ.
Very exciting episode, looking forward to watching your and Dan's progress.
Well done Dom 👏!
Good luck Dan in your new role
X
I am surprised the Teflon in the saucepan survived - I am not sure what temperature the Babbit is at but the fumes from overheated Teflow (PTFE) contain fluorine gas that is lethal even in small quantities. I suggest you get a proper crucible or a plain steel saucepan.
When you have a tiny leak, just block it with your "lolly stick" and horse on! You didn't need the mask when you poured, but grinding babbit! That's lead alloy dust you can't see in the air! Glad to see it well poured!!
Glad you got it sorted, funny how the video is 28mins long, but took you all day to sort this 🙊 also ice creams 😳he never told me about that!! Cheeky!! Lol xx
Great, well done chaps. Looks fab!
Nice job, well done both!
Could you use high temperature silicone to seal the washer and stop leakages? You might even be able to make a reusable seal with it.
well done Dom like the PPE when pouring then fill your lungs and workshop when grinding do it all the time excitement and get it done keep at it, what sort of money will one of these cost to buy ? thanks
Well done Dom that is some learnig curve but looking really good keep the content coming!!
👍👍👍 Fascinating watch as always Dom. I think you might have voided your warranty on that saucepan though 🤔 😆
Good luck Dan. Great video Dom, I’m fascinated.
Excellent work, Dom. Don't sweat the videography. It's not television, it's youtube. The content is king. I do my best to make videos and after trying many formats of camera I have settled on using a decent smartphone. Simple can be better sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
As always - great work. Very exciting times 🙂
Not 100% sure, but I think coolant needs a decent flow to do it's job, cutting oil more suited to oilcan dispensing..
Babbit pouring temperature is well within the capabilities of modern high-temperature silicone, whether in the form of pre-made orings or make-your-own-seal RTV silicone you're probably familliar with. Either could work as a sealing element between the washer and the cast iron. Of course, in the latter case, this means putting a bead on the washer and letting it cure to form a permanently attached oring-like seal, not putting it on fresh before a pour - the advantage here being that you can put it on however thick it needs to be to seal when compressed. If that actually works, it would be a huge time-saver, with a lot less prep and cleanup needed.
what a cracking video it just makes you appreciate what old time machinists blacksmiths could do with a lump of metal really good looking forward to the next good luck to Dan make sure he sets up the camera before leaves
Hi Dom.
You could try a piece of silicone rubber sheet 3-6mm thick as a gasket between the Ranala and jig when pouring your babbitt.
It should take up any gaps and come away cleanly and be reusable for many pours.
Very interesting. I wonder if fire cement would make a good damming compound? Set it up and warm it gently with a flame to get the cement to go off. Then break it off after doing the babbing!
Great update great progress .I wonder if you used a brass or annealed copper washer under a steel washer it would seal better when you pour the babbet
Hello Dom,
Congratulation on getting the babbitt poured... another milestone in the rebirth of the Ranalah...
Take care.
Paul,,
Fantastic job on the build 👍
Hi Dom, looks fantastic , just stop and think, your doing fine, All the best Brian 😃
Well done chaps !!!
Great video Dom you really took me back to when my grandad and uncle made lead fishing weights melting down the lead in a pan like your in my nans kicthen oh so many great memories 👍🏻 thanks
Great seeing it all coming together 😀👍
Great episode and well done with the Ranalah progress. 👍 More outakes at the end please 🤣
So glad it all worked out well for you Dom, the way things went for you in this video just proved one thing, you need a right hand man 24/7, lol,can’t wait for the next stage,👍👍.
Love how it's going....I bet you can't wait to use it after all your hard work 👍
Hide under the weather this would help we use EP DM rubber my Which I think has a temperature range of 250° C may be worth using that as a rubber seal on the bottom just an idea mate
sack the camera critic, any change wasn't noticeable, the excitement was great. Well Done Dom!!!!😁
Dom, that was really exciting! Sure, things will improve and smooth-out as you get practice, but the first effort was great. And isn’t it true we learn more from our mistakes than our first-time successes? Loved it. Les PS, another tantalising view of THAT Bantam. C’mon, a rebuild into ISDT replica Bantam. One came to light a couple of years ago, so there are photos available to make it happen! Les
Great stuff do enjoy these episodes .. a job well done !
I don't understand any of the technical stuff but just love the concept and process.
Keith rucker vintage old machinery org he does a lot of babbets
Maybe, as a form of experiment, you could try (ply)wood and leather to seal the bottoms for casting. This would also allow you to create a seal with a casting channel for the horizontal one.
Dom that was a brilliant episode in the Ranalagh project. Don't be despondent about the tinning of the parts. You can't say at this stage it hasn't been a success, as 20, 40, 60 years have not gone by since you poured it. Your reasoning for tinning the steel and cast parts has logic behind it and as you heated up at least the cast parts prior to pouring the Babbet, science tell you that similar metals will bond better than dis-similar ones so I bet the bond between those parts are BETTER than the original. One thing on tramming the Bridgeport, before you start doing ANY of the tramming of said mills, the tables must be CLEAN. Get yourself a proper stone, and rub it over the table, removing the rust grunge and any dings, then clean it, using a good brake cleaner to get rid of the crap. Only then should you tram the table to your satisfaction, then mount the vice. Only this will ensure your milling work is accurate. This is the only slight criticism I have in your video today. Keep them coming mate!
I get using babbitt on the original but on the 2 you had cast would it not have made more sense to not cast the holes and line bore all the holes for press fit parts? That would make it easier in the future to service
Hello Dom. I don’t know whether I missed an explanation on a previous video, but I am wondering what the purpose of pouring the Babbit is. Is this to take up any differences in the exactness of lateral and axial dimensions in relation to the cast surfaces of the main body of the Ranalah? Apologies if you have been through this previously. Kind regards. Stan
When adding to a lot of molten rabbit make sure you do not introduce water into the melt it will throw the molten metal out of the pot. I find yellow is a good flux for lead it helps if you ignite the fumes. This is most interesting. Thanks
Think I'll just wait here, don't want to miss it! 😃👍🏻
Thank you! I hope you enjoy it, it’s a big day!
Congratulations, what a success! I've got no experience in engineering, but I find this really fascinating.
Nicely done Dom. Check out Keith Rucker on YT for babbit work.
Lead amd liquid metals used for fixing thinks. There are many victorian garden walls with missing iron railings and stubs leaded into the capstones. electronic components soldering. 01005
That is a little sad. Ive always liked Dan's style of cinematography. Best of luck Dan. Great work on the Ranalah Dom.
love the vajayo! I am 15:48 into it and just wanted to say as someone who casts lead bullets, you want to add about 2% tin to the lead, at 2%+ it gives you better mold filling properties when casting bullets. I am told silver will do the same? keep up the great work!!!!!
Interesting video. Should a respirator be warn when grinding babit?
Does the same jig also align the horizontal axle? If so, I'd have thought you would leave it on there and set the horizontal axle before removing the jig. Of course, you might have a different plan for that stage, obviously, the machine will have to be laid on its back to do that pour. Looking forward to seeing the finished article!
Was chatting to a friend of mine the other day who worked at Filton (on Concorde!) and he related a tale about a couple of old guys in one of the shops making parts for the English Electric Lightning, from stainless steel on English wheels. No idea if they were Ranalahs, though.
Love this build
Well Dan the man, and you Dom have done a great job with that baboons 😊👍
should have been babot
Amazing project.
What exactly is the composition of the babbit you are using? It looks like solder.
Good job Dom!
Brilliant Dom!
Would you be able to melt the Babbitt in something with a measure on it so that you could work out exactly how much you need for each pour?
Then you would get it spot on every time
Great to see the process 👍
Have you got any orders yet, Dom?
Grinding lead Babbitt with no mask. Good one !
I wasn’t grinding babbitt thanks!
@@DominicChineas the nanny staters must be making you lose the will to live on this one, Dom......