Will The Ranalah Jig Work? | Reviving History
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- It's time to pour the babbitt and find out if my jig actually works! We're getting closer to having a brand new wheeling machine.
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LINKS:
www.dominicchinea.com
Dom's Instagram: / dominicchinea
Ranalah Ltd's Instagram: / ranalahltd
Edited by Dan Cross: / djcross87
Dom on the repair shop , nice lady who does the leather repairs was restoring a grandads leather apron, and the grandson showed a picture of his grandfather wearing said apron.sitting at a ranalah rolling machine curving a sheet of material,it was a a very quick cut but thought you might not have known.and you could see the top wheel being used.
Have you seen the damning compound that kieth Rucker uses at Vintage Machinery (you tube)? Its like grey playdoe with fiberglass or something. you can shape it by hand and its re-usable. It lets you build dams around your babet to control the flow. Its what you need.
Nice Job Dom ! I have 2 observations going forward. First and foremost, you really need to be wearing a respirator while grinding that babbitt. That dust is not to be messed with, and has nasty consequences down the road.
Secondly, I have poured a fair share of babbitt over the years, mostly larger pours for crankshaft bearings on antique single cylinder oil field engines. I have found that simple "Play-Doh" works extremely well for sealing, and dam building. it is pliable, and remains soft after the pour for easier cleanup.
It is safer to scrape the babbitt than to grind it. The alloy is virtually designed for scraping.
You can use wood chisels to do this. Plus you get a nicer finish.
Thank you but I wasn’t grinding Babbitt just removing the paste
Play-Doh ... Who'd a thought!
A wood chisel re ground to a machine scraper profile would work really well.
@@tonyray91 Of course he could buy a set of Engineers 'machine' scrapers they are less than £10 each from Kennedy. I think they are harder then wood chisels having tried to sharpen mine. At the price it is probably easier to buy replacements than struggle with sharpening them. They are useful for removing all sorts of odd small lumps on metal including burrs.
Best part of the video? Dan's reaction when you blame him 😂😂
Loving catching up on the series though Dom. Keep it up.
Nicely done Dom. Check out Keith Rucker on YT for babbit work.
I am surprised the Teflon in the saucepan survived - I am not sure what temperature the Babbit is at but the fumes from overheated Teflow (PTFE) contain fluorine gas that is lethal even in small quantities. I suggest you get a proper crucible or a plain steel saucepan.
Contact Keith rucker,vintage machinary about habit pouring
What an inspirational education you have given all of us who have discovered your channel. I have seen and played with an "English Wheel" during my 25 years as an aircraft mechanic but never understood the importance or the significance that the Ranalah wheel has played in the world of metal fabrication all over the world. As I watched a documentary about the WW II manufacture of the B-24 at the Willow Run factory, in the U.S.A., I caught a glimpse of a number of Ranalah wheel machines in several of the sequences of that production line.
You, I'm, sure understand the importance of the worlds "rediscovery" and "reintroduction" of the Ranalah Wheel, YOU have brought about. You have, through your passion for the nearly lost talents and arts of previous generations, have given us a new understanding and appreciation of that which we take for granted. Thank you for all your efforts, your thoughtfulness and your dedication to the preservation of what was so close to being lost. All your work is greatly appreciated even on the U.S. side of the pond. Stay well and be safe.
Try and get yourself an ER32 or ER40 collet chuck and collets for the Bridgeport to replace the Clarkson Autolock system, the best thing I did on my mill was swapping to ER collets, much easier and much more versatile, I have ER chucks for my mill and my Colchester, and you can still use the old screwed shank milling cutters with the ER collets. The cheap ER collet sets on ebay are accurate enough for most of the work you will need, and an R8 ER chuck is not overly expensive.
Thank you, I will look for one
Well done!! It looks really solid. Looking forward to seeing you pour the horizontal bearing. The photography was excellent from start to finish, it didn't spoil anything for me and I think for most of us watching. Good luck from Spain!!
Good video what’s the name of the material you used for making the dam for the Babbitt as I couldn’t find the correct stuff and used clay ? I was surprised that you had a masked for poring the Babbitt BUT not in the most dangerous part where you ground if as there’s a lot of lead in it & Tin is not good for you!
I don't know if you have seen them, but Keith Rucker has a number of YT videos regarding pouring babbitt metal and repairing cast iron.
I'm really enjoying the content but sadly had to skip a lot of this as the camera movement was giving me motion sickness.
Oh my Dom. You seemed to have forgotten your PPE when grinding the babbit. You naughty boy!
Your helper looks and sounds like the guy from the Photonicinduction channel. Great vid!
Fascinating. Thanks Dom. Best wishes
Loved the way Dan got you with his " It's upside down" comment. Ah, brothers...
Your babbit pour was fine. I really liked how you worked that pot to give it a "long reach" spout! Have to admit I was a bit worried there might be some kind of chemical reaction between the babbit and teflon coating, and I was glad to see it worked out so well. I have no doubt that the joints will last a thousand years - you did quality work there, and should be proud of what you've accomplished.
Now I just need to talk you into taking on the T.Norton fly press project. We can't let it leave the British Isles, so lets get at least one of them cast!
If they start failing in the field, you can always redo it with epoxy. Araldite solves all.
Well done Dan look forward to seeing the next installment. The milling machine took me back to 50 years to my dad's workshop. Can still smell the soluble oil and hot metal now.
Love seeing the re-learning of old skills. Don't sell yourself short on camera work dedicate time to master the basics like you do for the other things you like. Can wait to see these share some Porsche parts!
Metalwork skills = 11
Videography skills = 1
😂😂😂
Absolutely right haha!! That’s why I get Dan to do as much as I can!
Hide under the weather this would help we use EP DM rubber my Which I think has a temperature range of 250° C may be worth using that as a rubber seal on the bottom just an idea mate
Random supporter of the channel, met you in a metal stockist recently, nice to chat. Very impressed with your Ranalah progress. Can wait to see the top bearing and what you can do with Ranalah.
Keith rucker vintage old machinery org he does a lot of babbets
Well done Dom, good you had Dan there to keep you straight. Looking forward to seeing your Ramallah in action.
Not 100% sure, but I think coolant needs a decent flow to do it's job, cutting oil more suited to oilcan dispensing..
First job i had was in a foundry, giving the molten metal a good stir with a wooden stick is also a method of removing dissolved gasses from the metal and improves the quality of the cast.
Very interesting. I wonder if fire cement would make a good damming compound? Set it up and warm it gently with a flame to get the cement to go off. Then break it off after doing the babbing!
well done Dom like the PPE when pouring then fill your lungs and workshop when grinding do it all the time excitement and get it done keep at it, what sort of money will one of these cost to buy ? thanks
Lead amd liquid metals used for fixing thinks. There are many victorian garden walls with missing iron railings and stubs leaded into the capstones. electronic components soldering. 01005
Great job getting the Ranalah finished Thanks Dom and Thanks Dan HAPPY EASTER
Maybe, as a form of experiment, you could try (ply)wood and leather to seal the bottoms for casting. This would also allow you to create a seal with a casting channel for the horizontal one.
Brilliant! How great to see the jig absolutely do its job perfectly. Good job learning by doing on the babbitt.
Good luck Dan. Well done on your contribution to making The Repair Shop such a success. Make sure Dom keeps us up to date with your new adventures!
Glad you got it sorted, funny how the video is 28mins long, but took you all day to sort this 🙊 also ice creams 😳he never told me about that!! Cheeky!! Lol xx
Not all the way into the video, but get yourself a dead-blow mallet for the mill. Using a copper hide one will often bounce - edited to add, it will bounce the job in the vice. And add to that, get yourself some of the thin parallels (the blocks for sitting stuff on in the vice if you’re not aware). Using a think one laid flat under the job means that when you tap it down, you can always feel that the job has pinched it down flat.
Hi Dom
Really enjoy your videos and your methodical approach. One comment from a former fitter machinist is the gap on the v mill collect chuck lock collar. Should there be one? Reason is we were taught to make sure the centre hole in the top of the end or slot mill on smaller tool bits didn’t shatter when the collar is done up with the spanner, particularly on smaller tool bits.
It was on a half turn to tighten once the tool bit is in contact with the centre location pin.
May be your collet chuck has a step on the lock ring?
A high flow - tipped cutter would eat that flat without any coolant. Might have been a bit of vibration on a Bridgeport though😆
This continues to be a great series of videos, I've enjoyed the journey so far and look forward to the next step. Well done! I've some experience of casting tin based alloys using high temperature silicone moulds. A slightly oversized disk of HT silicone that fits on top of the steel washer should create a good seal when tightened. It would also have the advantage of being re-useable. I have to say, the "Play-Doh" method described by Vic below also sounds interesting. Either method would leave you with less clean-up.
Bye bye Dan the camera! What are brothers for other than to criticise everything & winding you up? Another great update.
👍👍👍 Fascinating watch as always Dom. I think you might have voided your warranty on that saucepan though 🤔 😆
loved every minute of it 😊, seeing the highs and the lows of a learning experience , then seeing it all come together in the end , great little video that was 👍
Could you use high temperature silicone to seal the washer and stop leakages? You might even be able to make a reusable seal with it.
I get using babbitt on the original but on the 2 you had cast would it not have made more sense to not cast the holes and line bore all the holes for press fit parts? That would make it easier in the future to service
Great work. Really enjoy your videos and your willingness to try something new.
Someone get him a belt sander . That right angle grinder was hard to watch😂😂
I'm loving this project, another great video. Can I just also add that I really appreciate that you leave in mistakes and problems that you encounter, I think it is a really important lesson of engineering and making that things go wrong, and you can always learn from them. I feel like too many maker shows make it look so simple, which is just not the way real life works, and sets unrealistic expectations for people wanting to learn.
Hi Dom im late to these vids but enjoying your journey lots of innovation
That was a great watch Dom - Dan is a clever lad. Well done boys.👍
I've no experience with the skills you used with Dan but the result and set up look great. Congratulations and here's to seeing the Ranalah working.
A great video Dom, well done and it was fantastic to see you two brothers working so well together. Kind regards, Richard.
Great job well done Dom 👍I'm looking forward to seeing the next video ♥️ keep up the good work 😊
For the temperature check with the white metal, my older brother said that they use brown paper as a guide, i.e. when it catches alight. He did his time as a fitter and turner in a shipyard doing engines and gearboxes 50 years ago in NZ.
Dom, that was really exciting! Sure, things will improve and smooth-out as you get practice, but the first effort was great. And isn’t it true we learn more from our mistakes than our first-time successes? Loved it. Les PS, another tantalising view of THAT Bantam. C’mon, a rebuild into ISDT replica Bantam. One came to light a couple of years ago, so there are photos available to make it happen! Les
Will the Ranalah jig work who wrote that of course it will ,Dom made it 👍👨🏻🏭
Well done Dom that is some learnig curve but looking really good keep the content coming!!
Great episode and well done with the Ranalah progress. 👍 More outakes at the end please 🤣
Great Dom, and all the best to both Dan's !!!>
I think silver solder is stronger than lead
That tea looks really weak 😀
Best wishes to Camera Dan!
What a cracking episode Dom - thank goodness for your brother too, he knows his stuff. Very much looking forward to the next one.
Will you be coming to Makers Central?
Well done Dom 👏!
Good luck Dan in your new role
X
Great, well done chaps. Looks fab!
Think I'll just wait here, don't want to miss it! 😃👍🏻
Thank you! I hope you enjoy it, it’s a big day!
Congratulations, what a success! I've got no experience in engineering, but I find this really fascinating.
Hi Dom,
Would you like a miniature Ranalah?
I have been fascinated watching the story of the Ranalah unfold. I am a model maker, I make White metal models from scratch. My current project is making a OO scale motorcycle shop ,including workshop, to go on a model railway. It includes casting over 50 motorcycles and scooters as stock for the shop. I either start by using a 3D printer or make a master from bees wax (Yes I also have bees at the bottom of the garden). I had the thought that you have had a 3D model of the Ranalah made. If we could convert that model to a format that the 3D Printer would take, it should be possible to scale it down and print it in plastic or resin. That in its own right would look quite cool but if we used that to make a mould and cast it in white metal and turned a couple of small steel rollers it might even work on aluminium or copper foil.
Let me know if you are interested, I am in North Norfolk not that far from your pattern makers.
wait, you had a cutting torch and you melted the babbitt with a camp stove ?
I had to use the torch to heat the cast frame!
Does the same jig also align the horizontal axle? If so, I'd have thought you would leave it on there and set the horizontal axle before removing the jig. Of course, you might have a different plan for that stage, obviously, the machine will have to be laid on its back to do that pour. Looking forward to seeing the finished article!
Was chatting to a friend of mine the other day who worked at Filton (on Concorde!) and he related a tale about a couple of old guys in one of the shops making parts for the English Electric Lightning, from stainless steel on English wheels. No idea if they were Ranalahs, though.
Hello Dom. I don’t know whether I missed an explanation on a previous video, but I am wondering what the purpose of pouring the Babbit is. Is this to take up any differences in the exactness of lateral and axial dimensions in relation to the cast surfaces of the main body of the Ranalah? Apologies if you have been through this previously. Kind regards. Stan
Hello Dom. I don’t know whether I missed an explanation on a previous video, but I am wondering what the purpose of pouring the Babbit is. Is this to take up any differences in the exactness of lateral and axial dimensions in relation to the cast surfaces of the main body of the Ranalah? Apologies if you have been through this previously. Kind regards. Stan
Well Dan the man, and you Dom have done a great job with that baboons 😊👍
should have been babot
Nice job, well done both!
Yet another great video Dom. The camera shots did not suffer, I bet no one had noticed! Good luck and best wishes to Camera Dan. Acn't wait for the next video!!!!
Great video, but I’m slightly puzzled as to why (having gone to all that trouble to set up the jig) you only cast the two lower ‘pots’ and not the upper (horizontal ) one, all in one set up? The other thing that crossed my mind - do you know that they did the upper one with the Ranalagh frame sat upright? Given that such factories would have had access to various sizes of overhead cranes, it wouldn’t have taken a skilled team too long to lay the frame on its back, so that the ‘horizontal’ shaft could have been set in Babbit whilst vertical. Obviously, you’d need a separate jig to hold the shaft in position, referenced off the one (or both) ‘lower’ sockets already set in place.
Dom that was a brilliant episode in the Ranalagh project. Don't be despondent about the tinning of the parts. You can't say at this stage it hasn't been a success, as 20, 40, 60 years have not gone by since you poured it. Your reasoning for tinning the steel and cast parts has logic behind it and as you heated up at least the cast parts prior to pouring the Babbet, science tell you that similar metals will bond better than dis-similar ones so I bet the bond between those parts are BETTER than the original. One thing on tramming the Bridgeport, before you start doing ANY of the tramming of said mills, the tables must be CLEAN. Get yourself a proper stone, and rub it over the table, removing the rust grunge and any dings, then clean it, using a good brake cleaner to get rid of the crap. Only then should you tram the table to your satisfaction, then mount the vice. Only this will ensure your milling work is accurate. This is the only slight criticism I have in your video today. Keep them coming mate!
love the vajayo! I am 15:48 into it and just wanted to say as someone who casts lead bullets, you want to add about 2% tin to the lead, at 2%+ it gives you better mold filling properties when casting bullets. I am told silver will do the same? keep up the great work!!!!!
So glad it all worked out well for you Dom, the way things went for you in this video just proved one thing, you need a right hand man 24/7, lol,can’t wait for the next stage,👍👍.
sack the camera critic, any change wasn't noticeable, the excitement was great. Well Done Dom!!!!😁
Fantastic job on the build 👍
Hi Dom.
You could try a piece of silicone rubber sheet 3-6mm thick as a gasket between the Ranala and jig when pouring your babbitt.
It should take up any gaps and come away cleanly and be reusable for many pours.
Babbit pouring temperature is well within the capabilities of modern high-temperature silicone, whether in the form of pre-made orings or make-your-own-seal RTV silicone you're probably familliar with. Either could work as a sealing element between the washer and the cast iron. Of course, in the latter case, this means putting a bead on the washer and letting it cure to form a permanently attached oring-like seal, not putting it on fresh before a pour - the advantage here being that you can put it on however thick it needs to be to seal when compressed. If that actually works, it would be a huge time-saver, with a lot less prep and cleanup needed.
Excellent work, Dom. Don't sweat the videography. It's not television, it's youtube. The content is king. I do my best to make videos and after trying many formats of camera I have settled on using a decent smartphone. Simple can be better sometimes. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
Great seeing it all coming together 😀👍
Brilliant work Dom
What exactly is the composition of the babbit you are using? It looks like solder.
Dom, I can see a snag with the saucepan, the lid won't fit anymore! Sorry, just me being silly.
Watch Keith Rucker
I was waiting for Keith Rucker to offer his advice.
Sad that Dan is leaving TRS - hopefully to pastures new and better - But I don't think there's anything better than TRS - unless it TRS Australia 🤔 - weather might be better there 🤔 Enjoyed watching your latest You Tube video Dom- practice makes perfect or so the saying goes 👌😊
Well done chaps !!!
I think if you find out what a Tinker's Dam is made of you may be on to what they would have used at the time to hold in the babbet. I believe it is a simple bread dough.
Brilliant Dom!
Would you be able to melt the Babbitt in something with a measure on it so that you could work out exactly how much you need for each pour?
Then you would get it spot on every time
Well done, I've done fair bit of re-metaling over the years, and you are doing fine. Just one question , why not use lead ? I think using White metal is a bit over specified.
Thank you.
Nice one Dom
When you have a tiny leak, just block it with your "lolly stick" and horse on! You didn't need the mask when you poured, but grinding babbit! That's lead alloy dust you can't see in the air! Glad to see it well poured!!
Ah yes. My old dad took every picture on "f8 125". They pretty much all came out OK too. He used to that all those other numbers were for different countries!
what a cracking video it just makes you appreciate what old time machinists blacksmiths could do with a lump of metal really good looking forward to the next good luck to Dan make sure he sets up the camera before leaves
go to keith rucker vintage machinery on how to pour babbit !!
Hi Dom, looks fantastic , just stop and think, your doing fine, All the best Brian 😃
When adding to a lot of molten rabbit make sure you do not introduce water into the melt it will throw the molten metal out of the pot. I find yellow is a good flux for lead it helps if you ignite the fumes. This is most interesting. Thanks
Hello Dom,
Congratulation on getting the babbitt poured... another milestone in the rebirth of the Ranalah...
Take care.
Paul,,