I've been using this technique for some time, and it works well. I modified a cheap live centre to fit the boring head. It's important to ensure the boring head adjustment axis is truly horizontal, or the offset will also introduce vertical mis-alignment.
Outstanding bit of information, Sir. I have been wanting an efficient way to turn some Morse taper shanks, and I have just recently acquired a boring head, . This video is exactly what I needed. THANK YOU. Charlie
For Morse tapers making, you can also use your compound ; to get a "right" angle i purchased some ( simple ) mechanical squares ( with lateral rule (? )). Then i made 2 bores 3,0 mm each, 50 mm from each other ; and after having tapered the two bores 3MA, i inserted in each of them a screw, that i previously lathed with point. And - after having read some mechanical books dealing with morse taper, i made one screw protruding ( say fo instance ) ... 3,00 mm, and the other as long as the calculated difference for Morse 2 ( for example ) , in a lenght of 50,0 mm. The screws were secured with Loctite and then adjusted to the exact value with a file, used to short each of the two screws, depending of the error. I use this square tools to get the exact angle of the compound, one square tool for each value of MK2 or MK3 or what you want. Of course a check with an "exact" ( = "purchased" and new ) morse taper is a must. You can also make a tool B16 for the drill, or what you need. Obviously, you must first check your compound travel, if it's long enought for the taper to be build, but for me generally was always ok, with a bit of care ...
Morerover ... if you have a boring head, be sure to get also both the shanks for the tail stock taper and for the spindle taper. They are interchangeable in my boring head ( simply screwed ).They are ( in my chinese lathe ) MK2 and MK3. Just not force too much into the tapers, remember you have to remove it ... and so, don't leave them into the tapers for long time, i had notice somebody said they remained stuck inside ...
this is a very clever solution to tapers on the mini lathe! I'm going to try this with an even smaller bite into the lathe bed using a taper offset attachment. Thanks for sharing this innovative way to turn between "centres" 😀
That's very cunning...giving easily settable & measurable offset.... but the balls, oh the balls....wow. I always assumed I'd have to buy or make 60 degree centres with a slightly convex cone to give the 'steering joint' effect needed for offset taper turning. Well done for posting, thanks
Very usefull information ... using ball bearings instead points ... a highter precision work. As you, i also think that - after having centered the tail stock with many work hours, and so much effort, and ... ( least but not last ) 0,02 mm. ( only ) error in diameter on my chinese lathe, it's a pity move the tail stock screws again. Me too have got such a beatifull device, that "head" with the screws to de-center its tip, and i can use it either in the tail stock with MK2 taper, and also ( equally usefull ) into the spin taper, with an adaptor MK3. No other tail stock adjustment in the future, also i had to provide a sort of micrometric screws to accomplish that job ... I also was able - using that "head" into the spin, to perfectly center the hole in my steady rest, loosy tighteen, pushing it slowly toward the spin, with the help of the saddle ...
хорошее видео. пользуюсь таким методом тоже. есть пара моментов - необходимо обкатать в горизонтальную позицию расточную головку по ее верхней грани. это базовая поверхность. перед этим нужно обкатать деталь индикатором и выставить головку в требуемую позицию. и второе - при использовании поводка он описывает колебательные движения, не такие, как при простом точении в центрах, это нужно помнить
tried that years ago Allen but it's not reliable because you must be dead nuts sure that the boring head leadscrew is perfectly parallel with your lathe bed ways. ie. keep the same centerline down the length of the part. even slightly out of the aforementioned parallelism and you're pushing the centre of that tailstock in a vertical plane and not your desired horizontal one
I've been using this technique for some time, and it works well. I modified a cheap live centre to fit the boring head. It's important to ensure the boring head adjustment axis is truly horizontal, or the offset will also introduce vertical mis-alignment.
Outstanding bit of information, Sir. I have been wanting an efficient way to turn some Morse taper shanks, and I have just recently acquired a boring head, . This video is exactly what I needed. THANK YOU.
Charlie
For Morse tapers making, you can also use your compound ; to get a "right" angle i purchased some ( simple ) mechanical squares ( with lateral rule (? )).
Then i made 2 bores 3,0 mm each, 50 mm from each other ; and after having tapered the two bores 3MA, i inserted in each of them a screw, that i previously lathed with point.
And - after having read some mechanical books dealing with morse taper, i made one screw protruding ( say fo instance ) ... 3,00 mm, and the other as long as the calculated difference for Morse 2 ( for example ) , in a lenght of 50,0 mm.
The screws were secured with Loctite and then adjusted to the exact value with a file, used to short each of the two screws, depending of the error.
I use this square tools to get the exact angle of the compound, one square tool for each value of MK2 or MK3 or what you want.
Of course a check with an "exact" ( = "purchased" and new ) morse taper is a must.
You can also make a tool B16 for the drill, or what you need.
Obviously, you must first check your compound travel, if it's long enought for the taper to be build, but for me generally was always ok, with a bit of care ...
Morerover ... if you have a boring head, be sure to get also both the shanks for the tail stock taper and for the spindle taper. They are interchangeable in my boring head ( simply screwed ).They are ( in my chinese lathe ) MK2 and MK3.
Just not force too much into the tapers, remember you have to remove it ... and so, don't leave them into the tapers for long time, i had notice somebody said they remained stuck inside ...
this is a very clever solution to tapers on the mini lathe! I'm going to try this with an even smaller bite into the lathe bed using a taper offset attachment. Thanks for sharing this innovative way to turn between "centres" 😀
Good show Alan.I love the adoption of the boring head to off-set the alignment.
That's very cunning...giving easily settable & measurable offset.... but the balls, oh the balls....wow. I always assumed I'd have to buy or make 60 degree centres with a slightly convex cone to give the 'steering joint' effect needed for offset taper turning. Well done for posting, thanks
Nice solution Alan, never seen that done before. Great idea for fine control, thanks for sharing. Cheers, Jon
Very usefull information ... using ball bearings instead points ... a highter precision work.
As you, i also think that - after having centered the tail stock with many work hours, and so much effort, and ... ( least but not last ) 0,02 mm. ( only ) error in diameter on my chinese lathe, it's a pity move the tail stock screws again. Me too have got such a beatifull device, that "head" with the screws to de-center its tip, and i can use it either in the tail stock with MK2 taper, and also ( equally usefull ) into the spin taper, with an adaptor MK3.
No other tail stock adjustment in the future, also i had to provide a sort of micrometric screws to accomplish that job ...
I also was able - using that "head" into the spin, to perfectly center the hole in my steady rest, loosy tighteen, pushing it slowly toward the spin, with the help of the saddle ...
Thanks for the video,, I'm gathering the parts to build this myself.
Good tip Allan.
Thats a good way to do that, i have a 3” boring head so i could large tapers, thanks for the video.
Hello Alan,
A really nice what to do this... thanks for sharing...
Take care.
Paul,,
how simple some things can be if ya think a little bit!!
You must be a real engineer. That’s very clever.
хорошее видео. пользуюсь таким методом тоже. есть пара моментов - необходимо обкатать в горизонтальную позицию расточную головку по ее верхней грани. это базовая поверхность. перед этим нужно обкатать деталь индикатором и выставить головку в требуемую позицию. и второе - при использовании поводка он описывает колебательные движения, не такие, как при простом точении в центрах, это нужно помнить
You might want to add a flat on the boring head center for the set screw or it will be very difficult to remove, ask me how I know
that is a very clever idea well done my man, keep em coming NB mr crispin would never had come up with that
wonderful, cheers from USA, Paul
Well, I'd have never have thought of that! very clever, I like it!
how to calculate the realtion between the boring head mm screw and the desired taper angle?
Really neat idea!
I would like to see your show and good lo learn for my homemade lathe. My first time making so what is the motor horse power use ?
Thanks
The motor is a 0.75 hp
Thanks your recommendation
tried that years ago Allen but it's not reliable because you must be dead nuts sure that the boring head leadscrew is perfectly parallel with your lathe bed ways. ie. keep the same centerline down the length of the part. even slightly out of the aforementioned parallelism and you're pushing the centre of that tailstock in a vertical plane and not your desired horizontal one
Do you have a link to that boring head?
Useful tip thanks 👍
What a great idea. 👍
Thanks for sharing!
Outstanding!!!!
Very innovative!
Thank you! Cheers!
Good one
A catch plate the next job then.