Here's HOPING you guys read this question. 🙏🙏🙏 Just bought the kit. My tub sits above my crawlspace. The temperature in the crawlspace is around 50 degrees. Using a láser temperature gun the surface temperature while using a small electric floor heater around the tub varies from 60 by the drain to 78 on top of the tub. I'm in construction and have painted all my life along with everything else, so I"m well aware of surface temperature being more important than surrounding temps. I also have to consider moisture from the crawlspace (there's just dirt and plastic, no cement). My plan is to pour material tomorrow when it will be 60 to 70 degrees outside (today is 40's, 50's) , but rain later in the day. I thought by putting a double halogen light which throws off a lot of heat in the crawlspace directly below the tub sits and monitor the surface temp around the drain and top of tub I could somewhat control the temp environment. Does anyone know any other way or has experience with this situation and tried to control the temps? I realize I will have to monitor the setting up and drying process of the material, especially early on and then for the next few days after the pour, but I'd hate to have not asked for advice of those who may have the know how. Thanks, I'll keep checking back to see if anyone responds to this.
@@zelogarno4478 Done deal and it came out perfect. I did have some buildup around the drain which I should have gone in the crawl space and removed the drain connection, because I'm afraid when I need to change the drain later on in life , it's going to be a bitch to remove. The epoxy will find it's way into the threads and make unscrewing that drain a nightmare. I hope I don't need to for 20 years or more.
The hardest part is keeping the material off of the drain. I heavily taped and tried to create a dam to prevent the material from flowing into the drain. It did not flow into the drain, but it was very difficult to remove the tape. I didn't want to do it too soon or the material would have continued to flow into the drain. Taking it off after it hardened was very difficult and required sanding and scraping being careful not to damage the finished tub. Some of the tape took the material off the adjoining tub so there were exposed gaps that will require additional Ekopel to refill and cover. I have 2 more tubs to do and I'm not sure what I can do to avoid this issue. Removing the tape too soon will allow material to flow into the drain.
@@RefinishedBathSolutionsI have been looking for this answer everywhere. Thank you for addressing! I noticed you mentioned in this video the finish was thicker than the factory coating. I would like to know if I go the refinish route that I can clean the same as normal. For me normal would have included bleach products and occasional scour with comet or Ajax etc. At the very least soft scrub as a residential cleaning company would use for weekly cleaning. Can you elaborate on risk of using bleach products etc? Is it to protect gloss? What type of cleaners are safe? Scrubbing bubbles is ok but I’d really like to know if I really would need to be restricted to that level of non-abrasive more so than with a new tub.
Tub Chip pre would be great. You touched a little on it, but details would be appreciated. If a chip say 1/16" deep is on the surface will Ekopel 2K fill it and level the surface? If not I guess it should be filled before and sanded smooth. Thanks
After rebuilding a cracked fiberglass/acrylic tub bottom, should a finish coat of resin (with wax) be applied over the fiberglass resin prior to applying ekopel?
i realize this video is two years old but I'm hoping you'll see my question and respond. I'd like to refinish my black porcelain sink. Is there any kind of tint that can be used?
Hi there! Yes, we have the option for black with an additional fee depending on which size kit you get. Ekopel can also be tinted with Mixol. Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions! We are happy to help.
Hello, once hardened, Is it possible to refinish around the drain? How do you cut it clean, do you have to reheat the area? Would that mess up the surrounding of the drain? Or do I have to live with a messed up drain? Thanks
I would recommend heating the area with a heat gun or hair dryer and then score around the drain and cut it out. Can also use a dermal tool to cut it out. Then can sand and buff if needed or use our pour on touch up kit if needed.
Hello I used 2 kits one after another (days apart)so far 1st one I had drips and a thin spot so I sanded wiped out the tub with isopropyl alcohol. Then I coated it again the next day. I was sitting on the edge of the tub getting measurements for plumbing and a screw from my pocket made a huge scrape. Anywho. What is the protocol for coating it again? what did I do wrong? And also had quite a few paint nipples how do I avoid that?
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Wait. Don't I want the ekopel to go down the drain hole? Then I wouldn't need to keep scooping it out of the drain. I don't understand why you would tape up a drain that has no drain in it.
I couldn’t scoop it all around the drain and ended up throwing whole tub out. Only way it might work is disconnect the drain and let it flow. Main issue and it’s missing in instructions
How much self leveling will the product do? I am refinishing a cast iron sink that has rusted around the drain where the porcelain completely chipped off. How much unevenness in a surface would require bondo vs just allowing the product to work? The sink is disconnected, so I plan on allowing the product to drip through the bottom drain again hole to remove extra product.
If the surface isn't smooth to the touch it will mirror the underneath. So you would need to fill any cracks, chips, holes, or dents with car bondo, then sand it smooth.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Thank you! For minor imperfections such as scratches or small hairline cracks, will the surface need to be prepped as well? Or will the epoxy not reflect these?
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Can you tell me if plumber putty or something can be placed in the drain in case tape leaks & also what kind of tape is best? Is a blow dryer okay to use instead of heat gun?
I have a clawfoot tub I was thinking about sand blasting the whole ,tub inside and out. And do you guys add a tint color or sell a tint color I could mix into it? This tub is flaking paint that the previous owner used and is pitted on the bottom inside
Ekopel would be great for that. We only offer tints if asked we don't have a color chart tints are $50 per tint and ALL TINTS ARE NON REFUNDABLE AND NON RETURNABLE. We would only be able to tin to light grey, dark grey, almond, or bisc. Ekopel comes in white or black.
If your doing the inside and outside then you would need our 2 gallon tub and surround kit. If you just doing the inside of the tub then you would need our 1 gallon bathtub refinishing kit.
We have tried tinting ekopel with powder and it usually does not work well. You are going to need a lot of pigment as well as keeping in mind how thick ekopel is!!
I plan to refinish my tub in the home I just purchased but I have a problem, the bathroom temperature stays between 82 and 84 degrees. The bathroom has a skylight so I thought the problem was the sunlight but it's the same at night. I thought about using a fan to cool down the bathroom but I worry about dust and debris flying around. Also, being unable to control the temperature. I haven't moved in so i don't have an air conditioner to cool down the house. Any advise on how to handle the temperature problem?
I would recommend cleaning up any and all dust and debris or that stuff will cling to the tubs wet finish an get stuck. I would also recommend using a portable ac unit for 12 hours prior to the application with the door closed this will help achieve that 72-75 degrees.
Thanks for sharing. A very thorough going through of the FAQ's. Thank you.
Thanks!
You bet!
I'm refinishing a cast iron kitchen sink. Does boiling water compromise Ekopel 2K?
Here's HOPING you guys read this question. 🙏🙏🙏
Just bought the kit. My tub sits above my crawlspace. The temperature in the crawlspace is around 50 degrees. Using a láser temperature gun the surface temperature while using a small electric floor heater around the tub varies from 60 by the drain to 78 on top of the tub. I'm in construction and have painted all my life along with everything else, so I"m well aware of surface temperature being more important than surrounding temps. I also have to consider moisture from the crawlspace (there's just dirt and plastic, no cement). My plan is to pour material tomorrow when it will be 60 to 70 degrees outside (today is 40's, 50's) , but rain later in the day. I thought by putting a double halogen light which throws off a lot of heat in the crawlspace directly below the tub sits and monitor the surface temp around the drain and top of tub I could somewhat control the temp environment. Does anyone know any other way or has experience with this situation and tried to control the temps?
I realize I will have to monitor the setting up and drying process of the material, especially early on and then for the next few days after the pour, but I'd hate to have not asked for advice of those who may have the know how. Thanks, I'll keep checking back to see if anyone responds to this.
I wish you all the best!
@@zelogarno4478 Done deal and it came out perfect. I did have some buildup around the drain which I should have gone in the crawl space and removed the drain connection, because I'm afraid when I need to change the drain later on in life , it's going to be a bitch to remove. The epoxy will find it's way into the threads and make unscrewing that drain a nightmare. I hope I don't need to for 20 years or more.
The hardest part is keeping the material off of the drain. I heavily taped and tried to create a dam to prevent the material from flowing into the drain. It did not flow into the drain, but it was very difficult to remove the tape. I didn't want to do it too soon or the material would have continued to flow into the drain. Taking it off after it hardened was very difficult and required sanding and scraping being careful not to damage the finished tub. Some of the tape took the material off the adjoining tub so there were exposed gaps that will require additional Ekopel to refill and cover.
I have 2 more tubs to do and I'm not sure what I can do to avoid this issue. Removing the tape too soon will allow material to flow into the drain.
Use something else. This stuff is garbage.
The timestamps in the description all point to the wrong parts of the video. Updating them would be helpful.
How do you repair chips on Iron tub? Before using Ekopel 2K
What do I use to clean my tub after everyday use? What chemicals can I use on it? Regular bathtub cleaner?
We recommend scrubbing bubbles. No bleach products or anything too abrasive.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Would diluted white distilled vinegar work in a spray bottle with a sponge?
@@RefinishedBathSolutionsI have been looking for this answer everywhere. Thank you for addressing! I noticed you mentioned in this video the finish was thicker than the factory coating. I would like to know if I go the refinish route that I can clean the same as normal. For me normal would have included bleach products and occasional scour with comet or Ajax etc. At the very least soft scrub as a residential cleaning company would use for weekly cleaning. Can you elaborate on risk of using bleach products etc? Is it to protect gloss? What type of cleaners are safe? Scrubbing bubbles is ok but I’d really like to know if I really would need to be restricted to that level of non-abrasive more so than with a new tub.
Tub Chip pre would be great. You touched a little on it, but details would be appreciated. If a chip say 1/16" deep is on the surface will Ekopel 2K fill it and level the surface? If not I guess it should be filled before and sanded smooth. Thanks
After rebuilding a cracked fiberglass/acrylic tub bottom, should a finish coat of resin (with wax) be applied over the fiberglass resin prior to applying ekopel?
i realize this video is two years old but I'm hoping you'll see my question and respond. I'd like to refinish my black porcelain sink. Is there any kind of tint that can be used?
Hi there! Yes, we have the option for black with an additional fee depending on which size kit you get. Ekopel can also be tinted with Mixol. Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions! We are happy to help.
Hello, once hardened, Is it possible to refinish around the drain? How do you cut it clean, do you have to reheat the area? Would that mess up the surrounding of the drain? Or do I have to live with a messed up drain?
Thanks
I would recommend heating the area with a heat gun or hair dryer and then score around the drain and cut it out. Can also use a dermal tool to cut it out. Then can sand and buff if needed or use our pour on touch up kit if needed.
Hello I used 2 kits one after another (days apart)so far 1st one I had drips and a thin spot so I sanded wiped out the tub with isopropyl alcohol. Then I coated it again the next day. I was sitting on the edge of the tub getting measurements for plumbing and a screw from my pocket made a huge scrape. Anywho. What is the protocol for coating it again? what did I do wrong? And also had quite a few paint nipples how do I avoid that?
How do you do the drain when the drain assembly is removed? Thanks!
Put something in the hole like a lint free cloth, old t shirt rag. This is to catch any material if it where to leak through. Then tape the hole up.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Wait. Don't I want the ekopel to go down the drain hole? Then I wouldn't need to keep scooping it out of the drain. I don't understand why you would tape up a drain that has no drain in it.
I couldn’t scoop it all around the drain and ended up throwing whole tub out. Only way it might work is disconnect the drain and let it flow. Main issue and it’s missing in instructions
What is the cost of product
How much self leveling will the product do? I am refinishing a cast iron sink that has rusted around the drain where the porcelain completely chipped off. How much unevenness in a surface would require bondo vs just allowing the product to work? The sink is disconnected, so I plan on allowing the product to drip through the bottom drain again hole to remove extra product.
If the surface isn't smooth to the touch it will mirror the underneath. So you would need to fill any cracks, chips, holes, or dents with car bondo, then sand it smooth.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Thank you! For minor imperfections such as scratches or small hairline cracks, will the surface need to be prepped as well? Or will the epoxy not reflect these?
I used ekopel and and painted on top of caulk I didn't see .what I do
Sand it down lightly, apply dust coating of BIN primer let that dry and apply more material.
How long does the room need to stay at that temperature when you are finished? Thanks.
It take the product 24-36 hours to fully dry and harden so I would recommend keeping at least 72 until its fully dry.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Can you tell me if plumber putty or something can be placed in the drain in case tape leaks & also what kind of tape is best? Is a blow dryer okay to use instead of heat gun?
I have a clawfoot tub I was thinking about sand blasting the whole ,tub inside and out. And do you guys add a tint color or sell a tint color I could mix into it?
This tub is flaking paint that the previous owner used and is pitted on the bottom inside
Ekopel would be great for that. We only offer tints if asked we don't have a color chart tints are $50 per tint and ALL TINTS ARE NON REFUNDABLE AND NON RETURNABLE. We would only be able to tin to light grey, dark grey, almond, or bisc. Ekopel comes in white or black.
Will one kit cover a 5 an 6 foot clawfoot tub?
If your doing the inside and outside then you would need our 2 gallon tub and surround kit. If you just doing the inside of the tub then you would need our 1 gallon bathtub refinishing kit.
Can you add powder dye to the ekopel?
We have tried tinting ekopel with powder and it usually does not work well. You are going to need a lot of pigment as well as keeping in mind how thick ekopel is!!
If leftover this can I reusable?
no once the hardener is mixed in you only have about 1 hour to use. If you go back to it the next day it would be hard like cement in the can.
What do you do with excess blobs
We have a scooper on the end of our box to scoop out excess material!
Cost
For which kit?
I plan to refinish my tub in the home I just purchased but I have a problem, the bathroom temperature stays between 82 and 84 degrees. The bathroom has a skylight so I thought the problem was the sunlight but it's the same at night. I thought about using a fan to cool down the bathroom but I worry about dust and debris flying around. Also, being unable to control the temperature. I haven't moved in so i don't have an air conditioner to cool down the house.
Any advise on how to handle the temperature problem?
I would recommend cleaning up any and all dust and debris or that stuff will cling to the tubs wet finish an get stuck. I would also recommend using a portable ac unit for 12 hours prior to the application with the door closed this will help achieve that 72-75 degrees.
The guy's just sitting there reading the instructions he is NOT showing anything.