I wanted to suggest, instead of a FOAM roller your should try a roller that’s plastic/silicone or something similar. I feel like it would roll a lot easier and not absorb the product
Okay I just wanted to leave a comment about this. It works. I had and old red bathtub from the 60s that I did not want to remove. I wasn't sure how this stuff would coat it. It truly is amazing I did it myself in one coat and it completely covered the red. I did not use a heat gun. I did not use a hairdryer either. I just used the toilet bowl cleaner that they suggest and I cleaned the heck out of the bathtub multiple times. I actually did it about 2 months ago and that's why I waited to post this comment because it is a rock hard finish. I do have one chip in it that I think I did it before it dried. There are a couple imperfections here in there. But otherwise I am overly impressed and I am hoping that this lasts for at least a few years or as long as they say it does. I've never made a comment before about a product but I'm still amazed but this actually works because usually everything lets me down
I don’t know why most people don’t like colored bathtubs and/or toilets. I think they’re coming back in style because in big box stores like Menards or Lowe’s you have to pay more for a toilet if it ain’t white.
Just over 8 mins in and this is the best video I have watched so far!! Thanks! I'm looking at doing this to our tub this year; watched a few videos. This video is proof that people who are "doing this for the first time after watching pro videos" should be shamed off you tube!!
I am glad to hear you enjoyed the video! If you have any questions about what kit would be best to purchase for your application or have any other questions please feel free to give us a call at 877-882-2278.
I watched just about every video and they are very helpful. I have a few tips that worked well. 1) After spreading the material I used a tooth pick to remove small pieces of hair and lint that ended up on the surface. This caused minimal surface damage and was all smoothed out by the end of drying. 2) At about the 3 hour mark I noticed there were small spots along the floor line that weren’t completely covered from where the material finished running down after pulling the duct tape. There was also some small pooling from the parts where the material completely reached the ground. I was able to run a q-tip with the cotton pulled off along the floor line to smooth out the pooling along the “calk line” at the floor and I also pushed some of the material up into the little bare spots. It worked perfectly to create a smooth coverage line along the bottom edge of the tub face. 3) I actually used 2 separate layers of tape for the process. I taped a small hole that is almost the exact diameter of the drain (at the lowest point of the tubs drain hole), then I also used the larger tape diameter that is shown in the taping video (this one basically outlines the outside of the drain cover itself). After I was done with the process I removed the top layer of tape (also tried to scoop out as much material as possible before removing the tape. Probably 10 wipes not 2 like the videos show) then I continued to wipe away material from the edge of the second layer of tape for the next 4 hours because it slowly runs closed to the tape. At about the 10 hour mark I was able to use a tooth pick to draw a line through the material around the tape because it had seeped over the edges of the tape. 10-12 hour mark it when I removed the second layer drain tape. Now the actual drain fixture will cover the line of where the material stops and where the old tub surface is still exposed.
I just wanted to thank you for posting your tips in a comment! I am just refinishing a kitchen sink that will be used for 5-6 months until it’s replaced when my kitchen renovation is done - and I’m still nervous! My daughter and son-in-law purchased an older home - and the person who flipped it did some questionable “quick fixes” in order for it to look nice ON THE SURFACE. I am going to have them watch this particular video for installing the product + read your comment. I really appreciate that you kept track of the number of hours that has passed related to specific steps - that makes your tips much more valuable! I also want to thank the company for making so many videos showing the application of this product. In a world where it’s so easy to post complaints about products/services, it’s good business practice to provide as much information as possible about your product and how to install it. It must be frustrating when customers call to complain about poor results - and you find out that they chose to ignore one (or more) of the written instructions. For example, when the written instructions specifically provide that the product must be mixed/stirred BY HAND - I don’t understand why anyone would decide to use a drill (or other electrical equipment) instead. I guess it’s a result of the “instant gratification” mentality that has become ingrained in the world today.
Awesome. I’m going to own the premix process and keep it away from my husband who lives by and loves power tools for efficiency. Using a power mixer reduces strain on weak wrist joints FYI why we love it, same reason we use KitchenAid mixers in the kitchen,,,, however, it creates air bubbles like whipping in the product, I imagine. Going to strap on my wrist widget and be diligent. Glad it’s low VOC.
I have an old 1950s pink tub and I used this 2 years ago. I have to tell you watching how you did it would have made me think twice about using it. You made it look so much harder than it actually is. For me it was much easier to take the extra step and pour the paint into a dixie cup and then around the tub. For filling in the runs around the tub I used a plastic scraper to push it back up. Using the dixie cup method I didn't have all the paint in the bottom of the tub to scoop back up. I didn't get any air bubbles or unevenness doing it my way. 2 years later my tub still looks brand new and has the appearance of manufactured cast. I do wish I had known about the dixie cup over the drain
I, for one, REALLY APPRECIATE all the instruction & reiteration of directions. I want to "do it right the first time, EVERY time" & save as much money & time as possible. THANK YOU for your diligence.
Thank you soo much for the video! I'm a 69-year-old woman who is a DIY person. If I don't do it, it won't get done. With that said, refinishing my tub has been very intimidating to me besides not wanting to deal with the fumes of the products I was aware of. My tub is 70 years old and extremely porous due to 70 years of scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner. I can't wait to try your product! The price of the product is high but if it works, I'm all in!
Great video and commentary. The only suggestion I would make is consider doing it on a colored tub for viewers to see the coverage better. Fingers crossed mine looks as good as yours...thanks👍
EKOPEL Product is excellent! Very little to no odor. Perfect instruction. I was able to complete this process within 2 hours including the cleaning. Big hint to remove product on skin is dawn dishwashing liquid.
I did my under the counter kitchen sink yesterday according to your step by step process and am quite happy with the results!!!! This sink never looked this good even when it was new. This is one of the best products I've ever used!!!! With the left over product I even did a table top to great results!! Now the table looks like it has a glass top!
DIY'er here... used this on 2 tubs today... looks great... can't wait to see it tomorrow after it cures... only mistake i made was putting the tape on the tile wall, not the tub like you recommended...
great video as always, thanks to your videos I successfully refinished a 6 jet Jacuzzi tub and it came out perfect. what if you had access to the drain enough to put a catch pan under the drain would you still scoop or just let it run out the drain
Did you ever get a reply? I have access to my tub from the basement and am thinking the same thing. Remove the drain completely and let it run through. Then there are not any lines at all, when fished you could tape the bottom to coat the drain hole also. I've seen rust in that area with metal tubs on other kits.
I have worked with quite a bit of epoxy materials. Here's a few tips. Mix the resin thoroughly before adding the hardener. If the resin is somewhat separated and hard to mix, warm it slightly and that will reduce viscosity. I would leave it in the car when sunny out and let it warm and then stir it. Let it come back to room temperature prior to adding the hardener or it might set faster than you would like. While mixing, clean the stir stick with another stick or knife and put the material into the can. Scrape well the edges of the can to get every bit off. As they say in the video, you can transfer the mixed liquid into another container for application. This prevents any non-mixed resin from getting into the tub. Not a bad idea.
Looking forward to refinishing my tub today! Brought the kit a few weeks ago and after renewing the tiles above the tub, I am ready to pour today! Got the heat at 75 for the past 12 hours and all is go to change my lovely 70's style, avocado green tub into a more neutral white coloured tub. Post product application review to follow.
Hi, do you remove the caulking around the tub first? No need to sand or clean with acetone? Thanks, just bought this on amazon for my girlfriends old porcelain tub
I did our tub today and was impressed with the finished look. Take the time to prep and this looks very nice. Thanks for the videos, u watched several times and felt very comfortable working with the product. Highly recommended 👌
I've just refinished my bathtub using this product and it came out awesome. This video is great to follow step by step in the process and it came out perfect. Just followthe instructions and you'll be amazed how good your work have turned out. Did not use all of it. This is the first time I've done it and I'm supper happy with the outcome. Highly recommend.
Looks good, only thing that I would add is when it would be best to remove the masking, but you didn't have to do that with that setup. I imagine that it would be best to remove it right at the end, when you are done getting the coating how you want it, so that it doesn't end up stuck in the material, making it hard to remove. Maybe you mentioned it, but I didn't catch it.
THIS PRODUCT REALLY WORKS GREAT. JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS VERY CAREFULLY. (Tip: preheat 70-75deg the bathroom with portable heater prior to pouring the EKOPEL).
Great video .... I recently purchased this product for an old bathtub for a rental property came out amazing .... there was quite a bit of product leftover So I did an experimental project on the tile walls using the leftover product instead of using caulk or grout ....still had plenty of time with-in that hour.. I have to say it also came out amazing !!! Thank u
I watched your video and am impressed with your work. I have a 7 yr old porcelain clawfoot tub. The faucett sits on the top of the tub, and there is of course a chrome drain.can these be taped off ? I'm a painter, but a perfectionist, and do not want to tackle this by myself. I heard your voice and guessed you may be from MA, then I saw the Patriots bucket 🤣 I'm in Weymouth, can I hire you to do it for me? Thank you !
I had a bathtub with the finish completely worn off on the bottom. I bought the kit, watched video, took notes, was very nervous applying. Wish I hadn't been so nervous, I'm sure it would have turned out better. It is a great product, even with my mistakes it looks 100% better. I love it!! Wish I knew how to add the before and after photos!
I would like to do the tile around the tub... can u give me some pointers. Do I let it all drain in the tub and do I need to kits and do I mix both of them at the same time
I DID IT! I followed the instructions given exactly and did an 80 year old kitchen sink AND an antique bathroom sink at the same time. (I had plenty left over) It was a bit nerve wracking at times and lucky that I had down plenty of plastic cuz there was a lot of dripping. They look absolutely outstanding!
Hey - if we have some type of glaze on tub already do we need to get it ALL off or just sand w little bit? What grit do you suggest? And do I sand previous glaze before deep clean or after?
Hello!! You do not need to sand off all of the previous finish, just sand it smooth to the touch. I would start with around 220 - 320, make it smooth and get try to get rid of any imperfections you see. If you feel like that is not enough feel free to go to something like 180 and adjust from there. You can always give us a call!! We are open Monday - Friday 8:30 - 5 eastern time. You can start with sanding or cleaning, it doesn't matter just as long as you do both and can even sand with the toilet bowl cleaner doing them both at the same time. Just make sure you fully rinse it off the surface and let it dry before application.
Any recommendations on a cast iron claw foot tub that has some deep pits and rust? I just purchased the product and want to make sure I do it correctly
I used the pour on method and ended up with several runs. What grit(s) of sandpaper and or rubbing/polishing compound might I use to make this look better?
I have a six foot long corner tub so there is an additional side plus slightly longer length than traditional 5' tub. The top edge is rounded ( there is no flat surface) and I am wondering if this kit contains enough material to finish this tub. Also, would removing the drain basket be beneficial?
Good video, I wish you used a different color paint. A darker paint would allow us to see what you are doing better. And maybe see errors better. White on white is hard to see. The heat gun you used, for bubbles what temperature is it on? Does it say in the instructions? I have to repair a chip and was going to use Bondo, and sand entire tub with 400 grit. Will Bondo be ok to use? (old 1950's steel tub, with your product.) Thanks
I have several small chips in my tub which are approximately 1/32 to 1/16 thick. Will your product fill them in after they are sanded, or must I fill these areas first?
unless you want a divot but one lady used it for her farmhouse sink and the drain board portion filled in with ekopel. So she lost the drainboard. So it may fill your spot in? And you might want to sand the exposed iron and make sure there is no rust. If hHave you found any other precautions, please share. thanks..
Bondo makes a fiberglass reinforced body filler called Bondo Glass. I think it would work perfectly to fill in any divot created by whatever wore down the original finish before you refinish your tub or sink. I would gently use a wire wheel on a drill to remove any rust, and scuff up the metal to give the body filler something to grab onto.
It was flawless until I took a brush with mineral spirits and a few drops hit the side. I ordered a patch kit. I don’t see it being a problem whatsoever. Very very pleased
Effectively figuring out if the sanding in a lot of full restoration videos is the only method for clawfoot cast iron tubs or if something like this also works
We have discontinued the old scooper boxes that are inside the box. The new ones are the wings of the box. Their should be a label that says "cut for scoop." These new scoopers should work better and last longer than the old ones did.
Can you use this after mistakenly being an idiot and using Rustoleum tub/tile spray paint and ruining the tub? Sand it down smoothish or does it need to be completely stripped? And is there enough material for a roman tub... it looks like there was enough extra on the standard tub.
We no longer recommend pour on for surrounds as the process is too difficult and often does not come out as desired. We came out with our roll on kits which is a two coat process that is directly rollable! It is different material from our pour on kits and even those come with the foam roller it is not directly rollable given how thick it is. I would recommend our roll on kits the two coat process directly rollable and rollers are not included as we do recommend getting multiple as you will be using them a lot and they will fall apart. You will want to switch them out before they fall apart therefore no remains get in your finish. If you have any other questions please feel free to call at 877-882-2278!
Is there a smaller amount you can buy if you have a fiberglass tub that is half the size of the tub you are doing in this video? And will it even work on a fiberglass tub?
Hello, Yes we now recommend sanding everywhere to remove all soap scum and make sure the product has a good adhesion. Sanding we have found is a very important part of the process as the whole prep is. Its also good just to get a nice flat surface and smooth out any divots. Even if the tub is brand new we still recommend sanding due to just creating a surface that the ekopel can adhere to. Any holes, cracks or big gaps need to be filled with bondo or epoxy before hand and then sanded smooth with the original tub. If you have any more questions please call 877-882-2278.
When you used the heat gun, how close did you get to surface? Is the bottom super smooth, can you add any kind of sand to put safety texture? How long is this surface expected to last? If I put material that's left in air tight container, can I keep it to touch up a chip on a tub at a different location, will it stay liquid or will it harden? I'll just want to dab a Lil on with a brush at rental property. Thank you, I'm apprehensive mostly because of the time constraints, but I so need to do this on a 54" tub that's 50 yrs old in my mothers trailer. We couldn't find a replacement easily that size when she remodeled during covid.
Thank you for your comment! We do have a non-slip kit available on our website. The surface can last up to 15 years! Unfortunately, the material is not able to save once it is mixed. It will harden. We have touch up kits available if you encounter any imperfections. Please feel free to contact us if you have any other questions!
I just did my tub today. It looks better than new, when it was new to me it was all used up. Lol. I cleaned the tub then cleaned the tub again then I got ready to pour and cleaned it again. I poured the material then I rolled it. I had an idea and that was to break the material down into 3 portions and I think it worked perfect lkje that for me. The material leveled itself our perfect. I actually removed the drain so no more accidents
I finally got around to doing this today. If anyone reads this, tape the box like he shows. I made a huge mess and it was pouring all out of the bottom lol. Also, I am short, so I was leaning into the front of the tub when reworking on the walls and made another mess. I should have put a small extension on the roller handle. Just waiting for everything to stop moving now. :) So far, it's a major improvement over my 1950's tub that was chipped and peeling. Cleaning up has been fairly easy too.
Thank you. I finally read a comment with someone who’s short. I was wondering how I was going to reach the other side without my body touching the front of the tub. I’m still thinking if I should get this kit or just use the rust oleum appliance epoxy. I love this method but it just looks challenging
Thanks..I want to paint the tub black to match the remodeling scheme..Should I get a gallon of gloss Rust-Oleum?or is there a specialty paint and where?
Hi, yes it is! We do have a bathtub with surround roll-on kit. If you have questions or need any guidance please feel free to give us a call at 877-882-2278!
Hi...appreciate this video very much. I have a old Kohler cast iron tub that is over 100 years old...pedestal type. I am going to just sand down and paint the outside with either a oil based boat deck paint or maybe even rustoleum stray paint (thinking aged copper). The inside is ok...but I will have to sand down and put a little bondo around the drain (small chips). I won't have to do the cup thing for the drain...already removed and will be easy to seal up from the bottom. My question relates to the heat gun process....did you just slowly go around the tub with it just for a couple of seconds to get the air bubbles out and was the temp pretty low on your gun. The rest seemed quite logical how you did this....think the most important part or a lot of it will be masking around the tub and protecting the floor and walls while I do this. I am going to refinish the outside of the tub outside the house and then bring into the bathroom to do the inside. I won't have a lot of room but should be ok. I priced just having this reglazed...but they want 700 to do my tub...so worth trying this. Thanks again for the details....hand sturring for sure...)
What a great product this is and it's so eco friendly. I know that many landlords and contractors could use this in their tool kit. Can you tell me where I can order it and how much it costs? Thanks very much. Maria
I've watched several of theses videos, and I find that you explain things very well, I'm sure I can do it and I know I will be doing one soon. I find this stuff to be fantastic and the videos very well explaining, thanks a bunch
I am absolutely in need of this product. How would a cheap rubber or plastic spatula work for stirring? Any reaction between plastic or rubber and the epoxy?
NEED HELP: Hi, I did everything perfectly but about 18 hours later I had to step in the tub for about a minute and used a paper towel under my foot like a genius and after I removed it some of it got stuck in there. Should I scrape it or use paint thinner? How can I clean it up? :))
Hello, try to cut it out with a razor blade since I would assume it is now dry. You can try to heat up the area with a heat gun or hair dryer in order to soften it. If you have any other questions call 877-882-2278.
Great video! answered alot of the questions that I had. I will be doing this come tomorrow and wanted a guide for it, this was exactly what I was after. The only negative thing I have to say is that I really wish you would of chose to redo a tub that actually NEEDED redone and shown the steps to get there. That tub is practically brand new and just a quick wipe down was fine. What about an old cast iron tub that has chips and years of crap on it? Should I sand it down some, just wipe it, or something else?
You are a great instructor with a very strong back. I made a mess but the tub looks amazing! Really not looking forward to pulling the tape and seeing how much seeped into my drain and on the floor tho 😢 🤞
Hi. The video seemed great and the comments are amazing. QUESTION: i want to do this over an older and crappier reglazing. do i go right over the initial reglazing or take that glaze off? if so, how? Thanks for any help you can provide.
I would recommend peeling up what you can of the old finish then sand the rest smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper. As long as it's smooth to the touch it won't mirror. From there etch and deep clean with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it. From there you can tape up and pour.
Hello, The pour on coating can last for 15-20 years or more if all recommendations for applying the material are followed in conjunction with proper and careful maintenance.
Order yours today!
www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCW3KJB
Does your product work with old cast iron clawfoot bathtubs too?
I wanted to suggest, instead of a FOAM roller your should try a roller that’s plastic/silicone or something similar. I feel like it would roll a lot easier and not absorb the product
Will this work on claw foot cast iron tub?
How do we clean the bathtub after ekopel refinishing. what are dos and don't to keep the bathtub well maintained?
Any sanding ?
Okay I just wanted to leave a comment about this. It works. I had and old red bathtub from the 60s that I did not want to remove. I wasn't sure how this stuff would coat it. It truly is amazing I did it myself in one coat and it completely covered the red. I did not use a heat gun. I did not use a hairdryer either. I just used the toilet bowl cleaner that they suggest and I cleaned the heck out of the bathtub multiple times. I actually did it about 2 months ago and that's why I waited to post this comment because it is a rock hard finish. I do have one chip in it that I think I did it before it dried. There are a couple imperfections here in there. But otherwise I am overly impressed and I am hoping that this lasts for at least a few years or as long as they say it does. I've never made a comment before about a product but I'm still amazed but this actually works because usually everything lets me down
I have a red jacuzzi that I want to do white and want to see if its possible ...this gives me hope
I don’t know why most people don’t like colored bathtubs and/or toilets. I think they’re coming back in style because in big box stores like Menards or Lowe’s you have to pay more for a toilet if it ain’t white.
Just over 8 mins in and this is the best video I have watched so far!! Thanks! I'm looking at doing this to our tub this year; watched a few videos. This video is proof that people who are "doing this for the first time after watching pro videos" should be shamed off you tube!!
I am glad to hear you enjoyed the video! If you have any questions about what kit would be best to purchase for your application or have any other questions please feel free to give us a call at 877-882-2278.
I watched just about every video and they are very helpful.
I have a few tips that worked well. 1) After spreading the material I used a tooth pick to remove small pieces of hair and lint that ended up on the surface. This caused minimal surface damage and was all smoothed out by the end of drying. 2) At about the 3 hour mark I noticed there were small spots along the floor line that weren’t completely covered from where the material finished running down after pulling the duct tape. There was also some small pooling from the parts where the material completely reached the ground. I was able to run a q-tip with the cotton pulled off along the floor line to smooth out the pooling along the “calk line” at the floor and I also pushed some of the material up into the little bare spots. It worked perfectly to create a smooth coverage line along the bottom edge of the tub face.
3) I actually used 2 separate layers of tape for the process. I taped a small hole that is almost the exact diameter of the drain (at the lowest point of the tubs drain hole), then I also used the larger tape diameter that is shown in the taping video (this one basically outlines the outside of the drain cover itself). After I was done with the process I removed the top layer of tape (also tried to scoop out as much material as possible before removing the tape. Probably 10 wipes not 2 like the videos show) then I continued to wipe away material from the edge of the second layer of tape for the next 4 hours because it slowly runs closed to the tape. At about the 10 hour mark I was able to use a tooth pick to draw a line through the material around the tape because it had seeped over the edges of the tape. 10-12 hour mark it when I removed the second layer drain tape.
Now the actual drain fixture will cover the line of where the material stops and where the old tub surface is still exposed.
Nice. Thanks for the tip on the hour mark *~.~
I just wanted to thank you for posting your tips in a comment! I am just refinishing a kitchen sink that will be used for 5-6 months until it’s replaced when my kitchen renovation is done - and I’m still nervous! My daughter and son-in-law purchased an older home - and the person who flipped it did some questionable “quick fixes” in order for it to look nice ON THE SURFACE. I am going to have them watch this particular video for installing the product + read your comment. I really appreciate that you kept track of the number of hours that has passed related to specific steps - that makes your tips much more valuable!
I also want to thank the company for making so many videos showing the application of this product. In a world where it’s so easy to post complaints about products/services, it’s good business practice to provide as much information as possible about your product and how to install it. It must be frustrating when customers call to complain about poor results - and you find out that they chose to ignore one (or more) of the written instructions. For example, when the written instructions specifically provide that the product must be mixed/stirred BY HAND - I don’t understand why anyone would decide to use a drill (or other electrical equipment) instead. I guess it’s a result of the “instant gratification” mentality that has become ingrained in the world today.
Awesome. I’m going to own the premix process and keep it away from
my husband who lives by and loves power tools for efficiency. Using a power mixer reduces strain on weak wrist joints FYI why we love it, same reason we use KitchenAid mixers in the kitchen,,,, however, it creates air bubbles like whipping in the product, I imagine. Going to strap on my wrist widget and be diligent.
Glad it’s low VOC.
I have an old 1950s pink tub and I used this 2 years ago. I have to tell you watching how you did it would have made me think twice about using it. You made it look so much harder than it actually is. For me it was much easier to take the extra step and pour the paint into a dixie cup and then around the tub. For filling in the runs around the tub I used a plastic scraper to push it back up. Using the dixie cup method I didn't have all the paint in the bottom of the tub to scoop back up. I didn't get any air bubbles or unevenness doing it my way. 2 years later my tub still looks brand new and has the appearance of manufactured cast. I do wish I had known about the dixie cup over the drain
I, for one, REALLY APPRECIATE all the instruction & reiteration of directions. I want to "do it right the first time, EVERY time" & save as much money & time as possible. THANK YOU for your diligence.
Thank you soo much for the video! I'm a 69-year-old woman who is a DIY person. If I don't do it, it won't get done. With that said, refinishing my tub has been very intimidating to me besides not wanting to deal with the fumes of the products I was aware of. My tub is 70 years old and extremely porous due to 70 years of scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner. I can't wait to try your product! The price of the product is high but if it works, I'm all in!
Great video and commentary. The only suggestion I would make is consider doing it on a colored tub for viewers to see the coverage better. Fingers crossed mine looks as good as yours...thanks👍
EKOPEL Product is excellent! Very little to no odor. Perfect instruction. I was able to complete this process within 2 hours including the cleaning. Big hint to remove product on skin is dawn dishwashing liquid.
Happy to hear you are satisfied with our product!! If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
I did my under the counter kitchen sink yesterday according to your step by step process and am quite happy with the results!!!! This sink never looked this good even when it was new. This is one of the best products I've ever used!!!! With the left over product I even did a table top to great results!! Now the table looks like it has a glass top!
That's awesome! Glad to hear, thanks for the positive feedback.
Thank you for going through all the aspects so clearly and precise. You are a great at what you do.
Good video, but you didn’t cover what to do with the small area under the Solo cup that doesn’t get coverage?
DIY'er here... used this on 2 tubs today... looks great... can't wait to see it tomorrow after it cures... only mistake i made was putting the tape on the tile wall, not the tub like you recommended...
great video as always, thanks to your videos I successfully refinished a 6 jet Jacuzzi tub and it came out perfect. what if you had access to the drain enough to put a catch pan under the drain would you still scoop or just let it run out the drain
Did you ever get a reply? I have access to my tub from the basement and am thinking the same thing. Remove the drain completely and let it run through. Then there are not any lines at all, when fished you could tape the bottom to coat the drain hole also. I've seen rust in that area with metal tubs on other kits.
I have worked with quite a bit of epoxy materials. Here's a few tips. Mix the resin thoroughly before adding the hardener. If the resin is somewhat separated and hard to mix, warm it slightly and that will reduce viscosity. I would leave it in the car when sunny out and let it warm and then stir it. Let it come back to room temperature prior to adding the hardener or it might set faster than you would like. While mixing, clean the stir stick with another stick or knife and put the material into the can. Scrape well the edges of the can to get every bit off. As they say in the video, you can transfer the mixed liquid into another container for application. This prevents any non-mixed resin from getting into the tub. Not a bad idea.
Can you use this on a tub with jets?
Looking forward to refinishing my tub today! Brought the kit a few weeks ago and after renewing the tiles above the tub, I am ready to pour today! Got the heat at 75 for the past 12 hours and all is go to change my lovely 70's style, avocado green tub into a more neutral white coloured tub. Post product application review to follow.
How'd it come out?
Hi, do you remove the caulking around the tub first? No need to sand or clean with acetone? Thanks, just bought this on amazon for my girlfriends old porcelain tub
Ok this video is better than the updated 2020 one. So thorough! Thank you!
I did our tub today and was impressed with the finished look. Take the time to prep and this looks very nice. Thanks for the videos, u watched several times and felt very comfortable working with the product. Highly recommended 👌
We love to hear it. Glad you had a good experience!
I've just refinished my bathtub using this product and it came out awesome. This video is great to follow step by step in the process and it came out perfect. Just followthe instructions and you'll be amazed how good your work have turned out. Did not use all of it. This is the first time I've done it and I'm supper happy with the outcome. Highly recommend.
Fresco Sales how is it holding up?
Yes , how is it holding up??
Looks good, only thing that I would add is when it would be best to remove the masking, but you didn't have to do that with that setup. I imagine that it would be best to remove it right at the end, when you are done getting the coating how you want it, so that it doesn't end up stuck in the material, making it hard to remove. Maybe you mentioned it, but I didn't catch it.
I'm sold ordering it right now good job on the tub and good job on the video
THIS PRODUCT REALLY WORKS GREAT. JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS VERY CAREFULLY. (Tip: preheat 70-75deg the bathroom with portable heater prior to pouring the EKOPEL).
Great video .... I recently purchased this product for an old bathtub for a rental property came out amazing .... there was quite a bit of product leftover So I did an experimental project on the tile walls using the leftover product instead of using caulk or grout ....still had plenty of time with-in that hour.. I have to say it also came out amazing !!! Thank u
I was going to try going over our old tile surround too before I resorted to replacing it. Did it work well over the grout?
I watched your video and am impressed with your work. I have a 7 yr old porcelain clawfoot tub. The faucett sits on the top of the tub, and there is of course a chrome drain.can these be taped off ? I'm a painter, but a perfectionist, and do not want to tackle this by myself. I heard your voice and guessed you may be from MA, then I saw the Patriots bucket 🤣
I'm in Weymouth, can I hire you to do it for me? Thank you !
Hello,
Please email me photos of the tub you want to get refinished, Erin@ekopelusa.com
I will get back to you asap!
Omg!!!.... I recommend 100% I did it to my bathtub and now it looks like a neww...👍👍👍
Same here! My tub looks amazing!
Can I ask a question, when you do a tub that's in place what do you do to the drain do I just tape it off
Excellent product. Work slowly as to avoid air bubbles
Love the look. I do this professionally. Wish I could use your product but the time would kill my business. Otherwise looks amazing.
Thank You!
Very very good demonstration!!! I feel well equipped
You are .
I had a bathtub with the finish completely worn off on the bottom. I bought the kit, watched video, took notes, was very nervous applying. Wish I hadn't been so nervous, I'm sure it would have turned out better. It is a great product, even with my mistakes it looks 100% better. I love it!! Wish I knew how to add the before and after photos!
My bottom is exposed to original color and the paint job is completely peeled up. Did you have to sand down with this product?
Hows it holding up?
Simply the best product I've used in a long time.The video was very informative.
I’m definitely going to get the kit but the tub in the video is pretty shiny and smooth so it’s hard to notice a difference.
I would like to do the tile around the tub... can u give me some pointers.
Do I let it all drain in the tub and do I need to kits and do I mix both of them at the same time
I DID IT! I followed the instructions given exactly and did an 80 year old kitchen sink AND an antique bathroom sink at the same time. (I had plenty left over) It was a bit nerve wracking at times and lucky that I had down plenty of plastic cuz there was a lot of dripping. They look absolutely outstanding!
Feel free to share photos of the sinks to sboudreau@refinishedbathsolutions.com
As regards "plenty left over": Two tubs in the same house can be done at one time with a one-tub kit.
Hello, near the end right before the heat gun, when you are pulling the material 6", what pressure are you using with the roller?
Was that a heat gun used at the end, What about a hairdryer, would that work?
Yes a hair dryer can work however a heat gun will give off more heat over all. Make sure to be careful as you can burn ekopel.
Thank you for doing this video. We bought the kit but did not receive the scooper. Going to do this next weekend!
stirring for 10 min was hardest thing. great product, great lesson.
thanks!
Hey - if we have some type of glaze on tub already do we need to get it ALL off or just sand w little bit? What grit do you suggest? And do I sand previous glaze before deep clean or after?
Hello!! You do not need to sand off all of the previous finish, just sand it smooth to the touch. I would start with around 220 - 320, make it smooth and get try to get rid of any imperfections you see. If you feel like that is not enough feel free to go to something like 180 and adjust from there. You can always give us a call!! We are open Monday - Friday 8:30 - 5 eastern time. You can start with sanding or cleaning, it doesn't matter just as long as you do both and can even sand with the toilet bowl cleaner doing them both at the same time. Just make sure you fully rinse it off the surface and let it dry before application.
Any recommendations on a cast iron claw foot tub that has some deep pits and rust? I just purchased the product and want to make sure I do it correctly
I used the pour on method and ended up with several runs. What grit(s) of sandpaper and or rubbing/polishing compound might I use to make this look better?
Hi, Please 220-320 grit Sandpaper and any car buffing compound.
I have a six foot long corner tub so there is an additional side plus slightly longer length than traditional 5' tub. The top edge is rounded ( there is no flat surface) and I am wondering if this kit contains enough material to finish this tub. Also, would removing the drain basket be beneficial?
Can you use this on acrylic tubs?
Can’t you use this in an hvpl sprayer?
Good video, I wish you used a different color paint. A darker paint would allow us to see what you are doing better.
And maybe see errors better. White on white is hard to see.
The heat gun you used, for bubbles what temperature is it on?
Does it say in the instructions?
I have to repair a chip and was going to use Bondo, and sand entire tub with 400 grit.
Will Bondo be ok to use? (old 1950's steel tub, with your product.)
Thanks
you know you are a pro when you don't even take off your watch :)
after using the ekopel 2k epoxy kit on my tub can I use a silicone caulk? Are non slip stickers safe?
I have several small chips in my tub which are approximately 1/32 to 1/16 thick. Will your product fill them in after they are sanded, or must I fill these areas first?
I am planning to resurface a claw foot bath tub.... any suggestions??
How long do leave the cup over the drain?
I have a small area (about 1 square inch) of exposed iron, do I need to prepare it before I apply Ekopel?
unless you want a divot but one lady used it for her farmhouse sink and the drain board portion filled in with ekopel. So she lost the drainboard. So it may fill your spot in? And you might want to sand the exposed iron and make sure there is no rust. If hHave you found any other precautions, please share. thanks..
Did you etch the tub or sand it???
Bondo makes a fiberglass reinforced body filler called Bondo Glass. I think it would work perfectly to fill in any divot created by whatever wore down the original finish before you refinish your tub or sink. I would gently use a wire wheel on a drill to remove any rust, and scuff up the metal to give the body filler something to grab onto.
I was considering patching with JB WaterWeld prior to this video. Did you prep the exposed area?
What do you do with leftover product, seems to be a bit of waste
At what time do you remove the tape from the walls and floor?
do i need to caulk it first before applying ekopel? and my surround has hairline crack, will ekopel cover it? ty
No You remove all caulking before applying. Caulking will not allow the material to adhere properly. Re caulk after it is dry.
Great video. Is there a way to add pigment to change the color to this? Thanks!
I’m going for it dude. Wish me luck
It was flawless until I took a brush with mineral spirits and a few drops hit the side. I ordered a patch kit. I don’t see it being a problem whatsoever. Very very pleased
Is there a method for painting a shower stall that has a top? Seems like it would drip...thoughts?
Could you use this method and product to refinish a cast iron clawfoot tub?
Effectively figuring out if the sanding in a lot of full restoration videos is the only method for clawfoot cast iron tubs or if something like this also works
Yes this method will work as long as you sand and wash it before! Also check out our roll on product!
Can you use the 2.0 roll on for tile walls and grout?
Yes roll-on is perfect for tile walls
What cleaner do you recommend after refinishing tub with Ekopel 2k
I did not find a scoop in my package just the material, Gardner and roller. What should I use for the scoop?
We have discontinued the old scooper boxes that are inside the box. The new ones are the wings of the box. Their should be a label that says "cut for scoop." These new scoopers should work better and last longer than the old ones did.
Can to be used on a one piece fiberglass tub with walls? If so how much will be needed? The tub is 5'x3'x6' high.
If you are doing a tub and surround, you would want our tub and surround roll on kit. one tub and surround kit would be enough.
Can you use this after mistakenly being an idiot and using Rustoleum tub/tile spray paint and ruining the tub? Sand it down smoothish or does it need to be completely stripped? And is there enough material for a roman tub... it looks like there was enough extra on the standard tub.
Steve Swanson you can sand it down. As long as you get it to sand smooth and no longer peel you can go over the top.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions You rock! Thank you for the video and the response!
Will this product work on fiberglass shower surrounds?
We no longer recommend pour on for surrounds as the process is too difficult and often does not come out as desired. We came out with our roll on kits which is a two coat process that is directly rollable! It is different material from our pour on kits and even those come with the foam roller it is not directly rollable given how thick it is. I would recommend our roll on kits the two coat process directly rollable and rollers are not included as we do recommend getting multiple as you will be using them a lot and they will fall apart. You will want to switch them out before they fall apart therefore no remains get in your finish. If you have any other questions please feel free to call at 877-882-2278!
Will this work on an Acrylic tub and surround; I believe it will. Thank you for your help.
It will you need 2 kits and to follow our tub and tile video
Is there a smaller amount you can buy if you have a fiberglass tub that is half the size of the tub you are doing in this video? And will it even work on a fiberglass tub?
In the instructions it says to sand the tub I noticed you didnt do that. Is thst something you have to do?
Hello,
Yes we now recommend sanding everywhere to remove all soap scum and make sure the product has a good adhesion. Sanding we have found is a very important part of the process as the whole prep is. Its also good just to get a nice flat surface and smooth out any divots. Even if the tub is brand new we still recommend sanding due to just creating a surface that the ekopel can adhere to. Any holes, cracks or big gaps need to be filled with bondo or epoxy before hand and then sanded smooth with the original tub. If you have any more questions please call 877-882-2278.
What's the best way to cover a finished floor?
Can you use two of those cups to get the extra material out faster and easier ?
Yeah you could if you feel comfortable doing this!
My tub is a Kohler slip-resistant bottom does Ekopel can be used with these type of tubs?
When you used the heat gun, how close did you get to surface?
Is the bottom super smooth, can you add any kind of sand to put safety texture? How long is this surface expected to last? If I put material that's left in air tight container, can I keep it to touch up a chip on a tub at a different location, will it stay liquid or will it harden? I'll just want to dab a Lil on with a brush at rental property.
Thank you, I'm apprehensive mostly because of the time constraints, but I so need to do this on a 54" tub that's 50 yrs old in my mothers trailer. We couldn't find a replacement easily that size when she remodeled during covid.
Thank you for your comment! We do have a non-slip kit available on our website. The surface can last up to 15 years! Unfortunately, the material is not able to save once it is mixed. It will harden. We have touch up kits available if you encounter any imperfections. Please feel free to contact us if you have any other questions!
Planning on doing our shower walls and tub. In what order should they be done? Walls first or tub? Or both at the same time? Thanks
I just did my tub today. It looks better than new, when it was new to me it was all used up. Lol. I cleaned the tub then cleaned the tub again then I got ready to pour and cleaned it again. I poured the material then I rolled it. I had an idea and that was to break the material down into 3 portions and I think it worked perfect lkje that for me. The material leveled itself our perfect. I actually removed the drain so no more accidents
I finally got around to doing this today. If anyone reads this, tape the box like he shows. I made a huge mess and it was pouring all out of the bottom lol. Also, I am short, so I was leaning into the front of the tub when reworking on the walls and made another mess. I should have put a small extension on the roller handle. Just waiting for everything to stop moving now. :) So far, it's a major improvement over my 1950's tub that was chipped and peeling. Cleaning up has been fairly easy too.
Thank you. I finally read a comment with someone who’s short. I was wondering how I was going to reach the other side without my body touching the front of the tub. I’m still thinking if I should get this kit or just use the rust oleum appliance epoxy. I love this method but it just looks challenging
@@tracyb3198 I researched the Rustoleum and while it's easier to apply, it's not as durable. Good luck with your project!
My clawfoot tub is currently peeling. What is the best way to fix that before doing the acid wash? Thanks!! Loved the videos
I have a baby blue tub. Would I be able to cover with your white product in a single coat?
Thanks..I want to paint the tub black to match the remodeling scheme..Should I get a gallon of gloss Rust-Oleum?or is there a specialty paint and where?
We offer Ekopel in black.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Thanks doing research now
Hi, is this product appropriate for fiberglass tuubs and surround?
Hi, yes it is! We do have a bathtub with surround roll-on kit. If you have questions or need any guidance please feel free to give us a call at 877-882-2278!
Hi...appreciate this video very much. I have a old Kohler cast iron tub that is over 100 years old...pedestal type. I am going to just sand down and paint the outside with either a oil based boat deck paint or maybe even rustoleum stray paint (thinking aged copper). The inside is ok...but I will have to sand down and put a little bondo around the drain (small chips). I won't have to do the cup thing for the drain...already removed and will be easy to seal up from the bottom. My question relates to the heat gun process....did you just slowly go around the tub with it just for a couple of seconds to get the air bubbles out and was the temp pretty low on your gun. The rest seemed quite logical how you did this....think the most important part or a lot of it will be masking around the tub and protecting the floor and walls while I do this. I am going to refinish the outside of the tub outside the house and then bring into the bathroom to do the inside. I won't have a lot of room but should be ok. I priced just having this reglazed...but they want 700 to do my tub...so worth trying this. Thanks again for the details....hand sturring for sure...)
When using a heat gun we use the high setting and go slow to pop bubbles or fish eyes.
I'm mixing up 2 cans for a large tub. Should I mix both cans at once or mix one, apply, then mix the other?
Mix 1 can do the 1st pour then go back and mix the second can and do a second pour so you can give your self a little longer work time
What a great product this is and it's so eco friendly. I know that many landlords and contractors could use this in their tool kit. Can you tell me where I can order it and how much it costs? Thanks very much. Maria
Real Estate Media News Network refinishedbathsolutions.com
I've watched several of theses videos, and I find that you explain things very well, I'm sure I can do it and I know I will be doing one soon.
I find this stuff to be fantastic and the videos very well explaining, thanks a bunch
don't waste your money, this is a horrible product. Nothing in those videos can prepare you for the pathetic results
@@rlputtputt lol.. you did it wrong!!
Go for it Girl... You can do it. *~.~
Would mauratic acid break ok to clean a tub prior to using
I am absolutely in need of this product. How would a cheap rubber or plastic spatula work for stirring? Any reaction between plastic or rubber and the epoxy?
NEED HELP:
Hi, I did everything perfectly but about 18 hours later I had to step in the tub for about a minute and used a paper towel under my foot like a genius and after I removed it some of it got stuck in there. Should I scrape it or use paint thinner? How can I clean it up? :))
Hello,
try to cut it out with a razor blade since I would assume it is now dry. You can try to heat up the area with a heat gun or hair dryer in order to soften it. If you have any other questions call 877-882-2278.
Great video! answered alot of the questions that I had. I will be doing this come tomorrow and wanted a guide for it, this was exactly what I was after. The only negative thing I have to say is that I really wish you would of chose to redo a tub that actually NEEDED redone and shown the steps to get there. That tub is practically brand new and just a quick wipe down was fine. What about an old cast iron tub that has chips and years of crap on it? Should I sand it down some, just wipe it, or something else?
You are a great instructor with a very strong back. I made a mess but the tub looks amazing! Really not looking forward to pulling the tape and seeing how much seeped into my drain and on the floor tho 😢 🤞
Thank you! for the mixing method way, super helpful tips!
Does a fan help speed up the dry or don't bother?
A fan can push any airborne dust towards the surface that will become stuck and compromise the final finish. We typically do not recommend.
Can you do different color terms with your product or is it strictly white.
Custom colors are also available
Are there other colors available??
Are there different colors or can you add colors to it?
My tub is mauve, can I use this and change the color to white or will it blead through ?
Hi. The video seemed great and the comments are amazing. QUESTION: i want to do this over an older and crappier reglazing. do i go right over the initial reglazing or take that glaze off? if so, how? Thanks for any help you can provide.
I would recommend peeling up what you can of the old finish then sand the rest smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper. As long as it's smooth to the touch it won't mirror. From there etch and deep clean with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it. From there you can tape up and pour.
Thank you for the training video, this product is awesome, so happy with outcome.
Is the Biscuit color close to a light almond? Thanks!
Can I use this for a bathroom countertop with a intergraded sink it’s made in the 80s It looks like fake marble
Yes you can use ekopel on an intergraded sink
I screwed up this project. I’ll try again- how do you remove drain cup and how to eliminate excess material around the drain?
Not sure if you read these comments after a few years but i was wondering howwww finish has held up now after 3 years?? Thanks
Hello, The pour on coating can last for 15-20 years or more if all recommendations for applying the material are followed in conjunction with proper and careful maintenance.
Not sure if this question has been answered but is this product recommended on cultured marble surfaces?