Thank you for sharing, I had the same problem, and the way I was able to overcome it was by brushing the decal, and complete segment after was clean with a two cots of Elmer's Washable No Run School Glue, White and Dries Clear, then apply the CA and did look very nice. I hope I help, have a good day.
Lynn, I have found the problem to be moisture. Sometimes it comes from the wood not being totally dry. If the wood is not sealed when the decal is applied moisture gets into the wood. I’ve had this happen, the solution was to let it dry for 3 to 5 days before I put the finish on the pen. Also the end of the Pen needs to be sealed, or moisture could get in causing the cloudiness if you do a wet sanding. Living in Colorado we are a very dry state, but if it’s raining or snowing and the humidity is high I do not apply any finishes at all just to avoid the problems. I hope this helps. 😊
Thanks Eddie - I think I can rule out moisture in this case. The wood used in these pens in over 100 years old and the temperature relative humidity in my shop yesterday was 85/26%. I only applied one thin coat of thin CA to preseal. Perhaps I need to apply two thicker coats. Thanks
The way I have done them is do a couple of layers of ca glue first then apply the decal let it dry and add a few more coats of ca over that and have never had a problem
Thanks Smokin - I did lay one layer of real thin CA, maybe I need a couple of medium CA. Did you spray the decal with any bonder or Rustolium before applying? Thanks
Is it possible that there was moisture present? Decal or not any time I get frost with CA i trace it to moisture. Looks like it's "frostiest" under and around the decal and the wood under it would stay moist longer than the exposed wood. It makes sense that some woods stay moist longer than others based on hardness. Maybe put them on low in the toaster oven or even a warm light. Or hear them up before applying the decal? Or as others suggested apply a coat or 2 of ca first which would also keep the wood from absorbing any water. Don't know for sure but you asked for suggestions. Just built your jigs and tried Celtic knots and segmenting. Thanks. Edit. I see someone else mentioned moisture.
I think Smokin Fireman hit it. When doing scale models you will clear coat FIRST with gloss, even if you want a flat finish. Gloss clear coat, apply the decal, another gloss clear coat to seal it. Then finish how you like.
I'm very new to turning so you can take this with a grain of salt, but I think there is a chance that Rustoleum may have changed their chemical formula and you got to be the first one to try it. I really enjoy learning by watching your videos and I do hope you get to this problem soon! At 72 I find it's harder to learn. GeMac
Hi Lynn, I never used Decals but I have found that CA and any other finish added on top has given me a hazy result. The pan blanks were totally dry and I only dry sand before applying CA, finishing off with micro mesh pads. Hope this helps. Cheers, Huw
Been thinking about this, sir. You just had a bad reaction with whatever you applied over the decal. It reacted with the CA. I think I would follow these steps: Apply 4-5 layers of thin CA and buff out. Then apply the decal and let it dry completely, like at least an hour. Then spray it with some kind of clear gloss coat. Then, if you feel it is necessary, I would apply a few more layers of CA. Maybe wet sand that with a super high grit very carefully. You just need to find the right sealer coat. I have had these hazy reactions between different spray paints and clear. With paint you either have to keep recoating while fairly wet, within an hour of each coat, or you have to let it dry completely for at least 24 hours, a few days is even better. I have had good luck with Krylon clear gloss for the most part. I have not had so much luck with Rustoleum products, especially when mixing with other brands.
Thank you for sharing, I had the same problem, and the way I was able to
overcome it was by brushing the decal, and complete segment after was clean
with a two cots of Elmer's Washable No Run School Glue, White and
Dries Clear, then apply the CA and did
look very nice. I hope I help, have a good day.
Lynn, I have found the problem to be moisture. Sometimes it comes from the wood not being totally dry. If the wood is not sealed when the decal is applied moisture gets into the wood. I’ve had this happen, the solution was to let it dry for 3 to 5 days before I put the finish on the pen. Also the end of the Pen needs to be sealed, or moisture could get in causing the cloudiness if you do a wet sanding. Living in Colorado we are a very dry state, but if it’s raining or snowing and the humidity is high I do not apply any finishes at all just to avoid the problems. I hope this helps. 😊
Thanks Eddie - I think I can rule out moisture in this case. The wood used in these pens in over 100 years old and the temperature relative humidity in my shop yesterday was 85/26%. I only applied one thin coat of thin CA to preseal. Perhaps I need to apply two thicker coats. Thanks
The way I have done them is do a couple of layers of ca glue first then apply the decal let it dry and add a few more coats of ca over that and have never had a problem
Thanks Smokin - I did lay one layer of real thin CA, maybe I need a couple of medium CA. Did you spray the decal with any bonder or Rustolium before applying? Thanks
Is it possible that there was moisture present? Decal or not any time I get frost with CA i trace it to moisture. Looks like it's "frostiest" under and around the decal and the wood under it would stay moist longer than the exposed wood. It makes sense that some woods stay moist longer than others based on hardness. Maybe put them on low in the toaster oven or even a warm light. Or hear them up before applying the decal? Or as others suggested apply a coat or 2 of ca first which would also keep the wood from absorbing any water. Don't know for sure but you asked for suggestions. Just built your jigs and tried Celtic knots and segmenting. Thanks.
Edit. I see someone else mentioned moisture.
Thanks Andy moisture probably played a role. I’ve bought new CA and will retry with some of the suggestions
I think Smokin Fireman hit it. When doing scale models you will clear coat FIRST with gloss, even if you want a flat finish. Gloss clear coat, apply the decal, another gloss clear coat to seal it. Then finish how you like.
Thanks Tenspeed - We'll try again.
I'm very new to turning so you can take this with a grain of salt, but I think there is a chance that Rustoleum may have changed their chemical formula and you got to be the first one to try it. I really enjoy learning by watching your videos and I do hope you get to this problem soon! At 72 I find it's harder to learn.
GeMac
Thanks Gary - That is good to know about Rustolium - perhaps I'll stick with Krylon. Cheers
Thanks Gary - That is good to know about Rustolium - perhaps I'll stick with Krylon. Cheers
Thanks Gary - That is good to know about Rustolium - perhaps I'll stick with Krylon. Cheers
Hi Lynn, I never used Decals but I have found that CA and any other finish added on top has given me a hazy result. The pan blanks were totally dry and I only dry sand before applying CA, finishing off with micro mesh pads. Hope this helps. Cheers, Huw
Thank Huw - I appreciate any input to the issue. Best Regards
Been thinking about this, sir. You just had a bad reaction with whatever you applied over the decal. It reacted with the CA. I think I would follow these steps: Apply 4-5 layers of thin CA and buff out. Then apply the decal and let it dry completely, like at least an hour. Then spray it with some kind of clear gloss coat. Then, if you feel it is necessary, I would apply a few more layers of CA. Maybe wet sand that with a super high grit very carefully. You just need to find the right sealer coat. I have had these hazy reactions between different spray paints and clear. With paint you either have to keep recoating while fairly wet, within an hour of each coat, or you have to let it dry completely for at least 24 hours, a few days is even better. I have had good luck with Krylon clear gloss for the most part. I have not had so much luck with Rustoleum products, especially when mixing with other brands.
Question; do you necessarily need the sealer coat? Can you just CA over the decal? Sure would make things simpler.
Thanks Tenspeed - I really appreciate your help. What you say makes a lot of sense. Thanks again.
How old is your CA? I have the same thing happen.
Hey Charles - It isn't new and I think that is one thing I'll change before trying again. Thanks for the feedback