Great video, kudos for the comment on the other builder, big ups in my book! Following both builds and really enjoying it, looking forward to seeing the finished results!
The "protrusions" that project off the main crank to the connecting rod journal are called "throws". Have watched the entire series to date. A lot of insight as to how to plan and execute your plan when making parts. Keep up the good work.
Individually they are webs, the throw is that entire region of the crankshaft, comprised of 2 webs and the pin or rod journal. Crankshaft webs may also include counterweights, not in this case though.
I just wanted to say thank you for doing this series Joe. I have learned a whole lot and seeing that crank run was a thing of beauty. I really hope you decide to do more series like this in the future.
HEY JOE, I've always heard and called them the "THROW". I enjoy watching and even learn a thing once in a while. I was a job shop \ production cnc turning center machinist for 35 yr's. Now i enjoy my modest shop at home. presently a 1/3 Galloway hit miss. Keep on keep'n on !
Joe this series is, to me, a great reference to be used when I undertake my projects. You have explained very clearly the reasons for the procedure you use for each task for each part.. Very grateful to have this reference source. Thankyou Mal
Well that just looks fabulous, nice job Mr Pieczinski. I am following the "other builder" too because she has equipment and a perspective that is much nearer to my level but watching a true professional do this is also very inspiring.
Hi Joe, Some other vernacular used in the description of crankshaft and shafting are:- The areas that rub together on the main shaft thrust, or alignment, collars or throw journals are called cheeks. The corresponding area on the connecting rod is also called the cheek, but the face on the frame main bearing is called a face. Cheeks are usually machined such that they are proud of the crankshaft web by a small amount, as this is not called on the drg. For this part it is not required. Also when machining a crankshaft journal it is good practice to put a small radius on all transitions to the diameter or where a journal meets a web or cheek. For this application 0.005” or .010” is sufficient. The same applies to the undercut you added to the main shafts. Sharp non radiused transitions promote cracks or stress risers that may be detrimental to the longevity of the part. All outside transitions such as the thrust collars or crank webs should also be rounded by the same small amount, again to again remove the stress risers. Although this is a small engine it has long journals that can add some large loads to stressed transitions, and a flywheel disappearing off the end of your display can be a cause for amusement and wonder. Thank you for sharing and promoting good practices and dialogue. Stay safe and have a Merry Christmas
This has been fun Joe, well worth the price of admission. Looking forward to the assembly and first run. Wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.
Well, thanks for the Christmas present. I now have a profound appreciation for the people who made the big ones back in the mid 1880's. With the tools they had at the time. Astoundingly lots of them are still running. Mainly because they were as meticulous are you. So i guess they too, were OCD Tool Makers as well. Cant wait to see the little bugger running. Great video and merry Christmas to you and yours.
Joe, all of these videos were a great learning experience. By the time you're done, this will be one of those engines that run on an exceptionally low pressure. Amazing job! I particularly like the unloosening parts. 😁
I fit the rings and piston a few days ago. The cylinder is polished like a mirror and the teflon rings absolutely float in the bore. It should be minimal pressure to run it with almost no blowby.
In my years as a manufacturing and design engineer, my 'other favorite place to be' was the Tool & Die Dept. Watching this series and especially hearing Joe's comments is like coming home. There is more wisdom in his offhand mentions than most people have ever had a glimmer of a thought about. Beautiful work, great teaching. Many thanks...
Over here in the UK the crank webs connect the crankshaft to the big end journal. You dropped lucky Joe that there were no internal stresses to distort the crankshaft when the web support was removed. Really enjoying watching and learning how you have tackled building this engine, thanks for sharing with us.
Thanks for giving the other person a plug on her work. That was professional. Love your work Joe. I can identify on the problems involved with these kits. I ordered the Redwing Hit and miss engine from the same company. Having never built anything else like this you can imagine the head scratching I went thru. Set ups were a bear even on a big knee mill. Anyway, at the end of the day it ran like a charm.
Not sure if this is what you were asking Joe, but the pieces connecting the rod journal to the main shaft are called “webs”. On big engines we put a spring loaded indicator in line with the main shaft where you cut that plug out of the casting and take “web deflections” as the engine is rolled then shim the base of the block to keep the crankshaft aligned. Gas compressor engines can be over 30 feet long with 12 main bearings or more.
And now after enjoying this build process, I'm looking forward as most people are here to seeing the final assembly and test run. Nicely done Jo, thanks again for taking us on the journey. Cheers Pete'.
Beautiful. People who have never done anything with their hands can't begin to understand the fulfilment you get from completing a project like this well. Nice touch with the file along the shaft Joe, that is art. Happy Christmas from an almost free UK.
Your videos and instructing has been a godsend for me as I am just starting down this model engine avenue. Thanks a million for making them available, you are blessed with great talent. Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones.
Conventional crankshaft operation would have a generous radius where the shaft and rod journal blend into the cheeks for strength. The crank would then have floating thrust washers , larger than the main journals, on either side to mitigate axial loads . The big end of the rod is chamfered to clear the interior radii. Even if Blondi was correcting a machining error it was still a good idea.
@@RVJimD absolutely not. I am too fumble fingered to do that without breaking things. I tried one time and just brushed my fingers past a small tap and broke it off in the engine i was trying to build. I was not even turning the tap.
Nice one Joe, great video showing more than one way of doing things. Lathe and mill arrived Friday morning! Got to build them now but we have just moved into full lockdown here is Wales. regards Gareth
The last time I used a file on a turning was in high school. The shop teacher showed me how. I was turning a barrel for a black powder cannon (you could do that back then and not get in the shits like nowadays). He said he was going to teach me a little secret. Never thought anything about it 'till you did it. Thanks for the flashback to "the good Ol' days"....Love watching your videos cuz I always learn neat little tricks and tidbits to apply to my procedures. Thanks much fer all your wit an' wisdom. 'Tis priceless...
Yep, you don't need anything other than a way to turn the part and a file. I have a 0.17 caliber cannon barrel sitting just on my desk that I turned up about a decade ago using a cheap Harbor Freight drill press and a file. I did get the bore slightly off center, but then there are original period cannon with bores that are not centered.
I really enjoy the skill's that you show, the way you explain it makes it more easy to understand how things are done. Great work Mr. Joe. By the way the other guys I enjoy seeing plus you are Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker, Adams Booth, and my good friend Mr. Pete (Lyle Peterson). Again great work.
Joe. I really enjoy these videos. I've started running a Haas at 60 yo. I've been in cad cam for 40 of those but never really ran a machine so these videos help out my thought process on setting up and running jobs. Thanks again
Hey Joe, thanks for sharing the video. I lost track of how many times I smiled at your comments. How you do things most of the time I would do the same way, and yet I still learn from you on how to tackle something that I would not have thought of. Keep up the good work and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Most of all have a safe Holiday Season with your family and friends.
This has been alot of fun. So many great set ups along the way. Looking forward to the final assembly and the first run. I hope that your family has a wonderful Christmas Joe.
Your name should be Mr. Smooth! That is pure art! Thank you for sharing this build. Nice touch of using the file to get the final size on the main shaft. I too do that very thing. SWEET!
I'm not a machinist so the expanding parallel for a positive surface trick really made me think while smiling. Here's wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas and a real John V. McDivitt triumph upon final assembly. Thank you, Joe Pieczynski.
With this degree of build quality, it would seem appropriate to show that this "miniature toy model" can actually produce a significant amount of power. Clearly, your next project should be a billet one-off miniature working metal planer, belt-driven of course, by the steam engine, (I'm already seeing miniature Abom79 sized chips flying). This would open up the opportunity to create a complete miniature shop, while all the while entertaining and educating your UA-cam fanbase. Making the world a better place one video at a time. Let's give 10,000 thumbs up if you agree.
@@joepie221 I asked for 10,000 thumbs up because I figured that would give you a few days off. But, I have time now (my Lazy-Boy is already fully reclined) so let's fire up the engine so you can get started on whatever an EL1 kit is. ;)
I owned a machine shop in 1998 in at Otsego Michigan caled Versatec Tool & machine, we did mostly prototype work, short run and one of a kind. The main reason I got into it was that I wanted to build a live steam locomotive. anyway just want to say “WOW very impressed”. Thanks for Sharing, can’t wait to see more of your videos
Back in Jr. high school, in the 70s, I walked past a tool and die shop that built two locomotives, one after the other, in their shop. Every day I could see the progress on the thing. I suspect they were not full size, but they were big! The shop was on Buchanan Ave, across the street from the GM plant, in Wyoming, Michigan.
Has been a wonderful journey, with a lot of information in a excellent way. My question and I think I am not alone, what next? Thanks again and Merry Christmas!!!!
It will either be the EL1 miniature engine lathe or I will finish my desk top field artillery gun. I've always wanted a brass cannon and only parts have been completed.
Another great video Joe! I always enjoy seeing your work. I was glad to hear you say something about OCD I thought I was the only one that way! I guess having a extrusion mold background doesn't help this much either. Keep up the great work Joe!!
I love the bit at 42:48 when the shaft goes in and the crank drops under gravity without a snag or a hitch. I'm certainly looking forwards to this slowly running, when the only possible noise is the gentle 'click' of the piston-rings in their grooves.
Joe get yourself a replacement collet, when you do the original one will reappear. Brilliant work. I'm still learning, started on the tools 50 years. Crank webs is the name of the parts that locate the bigend at 14.33.
Hi Joe, I'm really enjoying the steam engine videos. I wouldn't always tackle jobs the same way that you do, but I have to say that your methods always work and the level of precision you achieve is truly impressive.
Joe I have very much enjoyed both your and Quinn's unique approaches too building this kit. You of course being a professional shop and Quinn being a well skilled Hobby shop. Looking forward too seeing both of your machines running . Wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas 🎅🎄.
Thanks Joe, I have been building my kit along with you and thanks to you I have completed all of the parts without ruining any. My bar for success is a bit lower than others, but I have learned so much and really enjoyed the build. No wonder the PM research steam engine #1 is sold out, you caused a run on the store. Now I am looking for another project, I have already built a clock - that was a blast. Steven Conover's "Building an American Clock Movement". So what shall we build next Joe? Have a great holiday season, Take care.
@@joepie221 If you're not fussed on which, put it to the community for a vote. I suspect it will be a close one as you have a whole new audience of model builders versus engineers. Mini Engine Lather for me. Great Build!
I’m non-denominational and will watch anything you put out with rapt attention. You called yourself a tool-maker in this video, though: please add a tool of some sort to the list eventually! :-)
Well done as always . It was good to see that the supplier cast the part in to keep the web from collapsing when turning the main journals . Merry Christmas !
Nice work Joe were you not worried when you sawed the center scrap section out your casting could have sprung a bit if your casting was not properly normalized.. I know that didn't happen but it could have.. ( don't ask me how i know) . Safer to leave 10 thou and finish the 2 diameters as a last op.. maybe I'm being super cautious in my old age.. keep safe .. greetings from South Africa.? Would have put a wooden wedge LIGHTLY squeezed in the crank to avoid vibration bringing diameters to size between center's
JOE ! How nice to see you post again. This will sure be tricky with an old 3 jaw, 3 speed belt drive but I think with a bit of imagination and a bunch of shims it is doable. My files still await the kit's delivery. It has stalled in customs right now so it may be the new year before it's arrival. The bronze spacers sound neat and will look good too. Only the pro's can fix their mistakes eh. As long as there is a nice radius on both sides of the "throw" it will be just as strong or stronger than the print shows. My surface plate is an inch thick, foot square chunk of TQ100 hand filed and surfaced piece of plate. Took days to make it flat but stays within a thou or so all year round. I would go at this with a soft dead blow first. Poss. the small press and massage it eh. Like you always say, " Go gently eh" No carbides for me, all high speed as I just cant get enough rpm out of that beauty old lathe. Besides that I can get high speed sharper than carbide. PS, I still suffer through a few adds for ya bud. Hate them but it dose help ya eh. Wrap that puppy on either side with wide elastic bands on stretched to the limits. Usually works eh. A piece of 400 to 600 grit on a known flat surface makes for such a nice final finish eh. I have used table salt to get super fine polishes on cast. Give that a go one day eh. A big radius on the shaft with accommodating brass washers will make this look way cool. 45 min gone in a second my friend. Onward to assembly now. I predict "0" problems ! ! ! Thanks fella !
Wonderful of course. Just finished my own crankshaft this morning, and I'm happy with it - but good heavens the mirror finish you have on yours is just amazing. Really looking forward to seeing your complete engine assembled. Side note - couldn't help noticing that PM Research sold out of the PMR #1 casting kit last week. I think these youtube builds have sent a lot of business their way! Edit: It’s back in stock now. My crank moved a bit when I took the support bridge out. Not enough to be a problem, but one shaft is not true at its extreme end. Bad luck.
Love the build. Keep up the good work. Not only has this series made you smile it has made us smile as well. It is a great teaching video that shows how a professional does it, using tricks that us amateurs may not think of. Have a great Christmas and New Year Joe and family.
Great job Joe , after seeing this one run I’d love to see you finish up the cannon. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and are sharing it with family and friends .
You’re amazing in my opinion. Have someone else check it 🌋😂 love it. Slomo at the end was nice. You’re explanation and execution are flawless, also easy to watch .... Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
I've just fabricated a similar crank shaft it has .023 out on one side and about .030 on the other side. It's all part of the fun after watching your vid I'm sure the second attempt will be better. Thanks for sharing your skill with all of us...
Just a little crankshaft terminology. The rod connects to the rod journal. The offset features are crank webs. The amount of offset is the throw. The endplay bearings are bronze on the other youtube builders. The two long shafts are the main journals. That particular crankshaft does not include the counterweights. Don't be surprised if the engine walks back and forth. Most of mine do even with counterweights. In my near fifty year career I have overhauled more than my share of diesels. I learned a whole lot using the portable tooling to repair engine blocks in chassis. That is the extent of my machining experience. But still use the same measuring equipment. Keep up the great job. P S How about some more cannon building?
Nope. A counter weight would be opposite of the crank pin to offset the weight of the rod journal and connecting rod.. This crank has no counterweight on it.
I was waiting on the results of whether there was any stress on the piece after you removed the web in the throw. But when you spun the crankshaft I got my answer. Thanx for a great video Stay safe
I am looking forward to final fit up, too. I suppose OCD does have its benefits when it comes to getting a project as close to perfect as this one seems to be. Great series, Joe, thanks for sharing and Happy Christmas!
You only need the crankshaft, base and cross head as an executive desk toy. With the valve block and cylinder there will be even more going on to look and play with. COOL
@@joepie221 Hadn't thought of that, great idea. Maybe some acrylic and polished brass? I always remember being fascinated by a cut-away Mercedes 6 speed transmission driven by a low rpm electric motor
I would liked to have had more info on how the fixture was made to hold the crankshaft for turning the connecting rod journal. More detail on that aspect would be much appreciated. Excellent, informative & outstanding series! Thank you.
@@joepie221 I sure will, your series on this has inspired me to dust off my Schublin 102 and make the parts I need to get my Mikron F75 working. Thank you
Up till this series , I thought of Joe Pie. as all American apple pie. but now it's more Joe Pi or Joe 3.141. Thank you Joe, watching your videos is like attending a lecture at You Tube University with Prof Joe PI, I learn a lot.
Absolutely spot on with the file. To this day, I still use a file and emery for the last 0.001 - 0.002 on critical parts. Takes longer, but I get finish and size at the same time. Not for production work, but I do custom job type work and it is the way I roll. Joe, have a safe and Merry Christmas! Kudos on this series, well played all the way through!
Hi Joe nice machining, good to see how you keep it rigid. When I tackle any cast, I am paranoid about internal stresses, and would have maybe put a sawcut through the crank web to let it normalise then epoxy the gap for the first machinings, I know this one was good to you, but generally what do you advise. By the way we 'Brits' can get confused 'Un-Loosen' ....over here it means 'not loosen' i.e. tighten! but hey, we don't get too stressed. Happy Christmas to you all
Magnifico Joe! This has been such an interesting and gratifying series, just in time for Christmas to which I wish you and your family a merry one. From a warm Johannesburg, South Africa😊
Great video, kudos for the comment on the other builder, big ups in my book!
Following both builds and really enjoying it, looking forward to seeing the finished results!
Nice comment about the bronze shims. 👍🏻
The "protrusions" that project off the main crank to the connecting rod journal are called "throws". Have watched the entire series to date. A lot of insight as to how to plan and execute your plan when making parts. Keep up the good work.
Individually they are webs, the throw is that entire region of the crankshaft, comprised of 2 webs and the pin or rod journal. Crankshaft webs may also include counterweights, not in this case though.
I just wanted to say thank you for doing this series Joe. I have learned a whole lot and seeing that crank run was a thing of beauty. I really hope you decide to do more series like this in the future.
I will. Its been well received. And I've enjoyed it.
Love it! may possibly be the most dimensionally correct model steam engine ever produced!
Great job on the crank Joe. I liked your class in that olive branch to Quinn. Life's too short to waste on animosity. Merry Christmas!
I am not ashamed to admit I admired her recovery of her mistake. Well done.
HEY JOE, I've always heard and called them the "THROW". I enjoy watching and even learn a thing once in a while. I was a job shop \ production cnc turning center machinist for 35 yr's. Now i enjoy my modest shop at home. presently a 1/3 Galloway hit miss. Keep on keep'n on !
Joe this series is, to me, a great reference to be used when I undertake my projects. You have explained very clearly the reasons for the procedure you use for each task for each part.. Very grateful to have this reference source. Thankyou Mal
Glad it was helpful!
Well that just looks fabulous, nice job Mr Pieczinski. I am following the "other builder" too because she has equipment and a perspective that is much nearer to my level but watching a true professional do this is also very inspiring.
The "other builder" is showing some courage by putting it out there. I like their perspective.
Hi Joe,
Some other vernacular used in the description of crankshaft and shafting are:-
The areas that rub together on the main shaft thrust, or alignment, collars or throw journals are called cheeks.
The corresponding area on the connecting rod is also called the cheek, but the face on the frame main bearing is called a face.
Cheeks are usually machined such that they are proud of the crankshaft web by a small amount, as this is not called on the drg. For this part it is not required.
Also when machining a crankshaft journal it is good practice to put a small radius on all transitions to the diameter or where a journal meets a web or cheek.
For this application 0.005” or .010” is sufficient.
The same applies to the undercut you added to the main shafts.
Sharp non radiused transitions promote cracks or stress risers that may be detrimental to the longevity of the part.
All outside transitions such as the thrust collars or crank webs should also be rounded by the same small amount, again to again remove the stress risers.
Although this is a small engine it has long journals that can add some large loads to stressed transitions, and a flywheel disappearing off the end of your display can be a cause for amusement and wonder.
Thank you for sharing and promoting good practices and dialogue.
Stay safe and have a Merry Christmas
This has been fun Joe, well worth the price of admission. Looking forward to the assembly and first run. Wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.
Thank you John. This build gave me more joy than I had anticipated. Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to you as well.
Offset journal= crank throw.
Another great video, Joe!
Beat me to it!
Well, thanks for the Christmas present. I now have a profound appreciation for the people who made the big ones back in the mid 1880's. With the tools they had at the time. Astoundingly lots of them are still running. Mainly because they were as meticulous are you. So i guess they too, were OCD Tool Makers as well. Cant wait to see the little bugger running. Great video and merry Christmas to you and yours.
Joe, all of these videos were a great learning experience. By the time you're done, this will be one of those engines that run on an exceptionally low pressure. Amazing job! I particularly like the unloosening parts. 😁
I fit the rings and piston a few days ago. The cylinder is polished like a mirror and the teflon rings absolutely float in the bore. It should be minimal pressure to run it with almost no blowby.
Thank you for the series. Happy whatever! Wish you well.
In my years as a manufacturing and design engineer, my 'other favorite place to be' was the Tool & Die Dept. Watching this series and especially hearing Joe's comments is like coming home. There is more wisdom in his offhand mentions than most people have ever had a glimmer of a thought about. Beautiful work, great teaching. Many thanks...
I appreciate the comment. Thank you. The guys in the shop are a valuable resource for those interested in asking.
So in this case 'OCD' means "Only Correct Dimensions".
Reallly enjoyed this build, thank you for taking the time to share it.
Stay safe Joe.
I really appreciate you doing this little project. I learned a lot and really enjoyed the videos. Beautiful work!
Thank you very much!
Over here in the UK the crank webs connect the crankshaft to the big end journal. You dropped lucky Joe that there were no internal stresses to distort the crankshaft when the web support was removed. Really enjoying watching and learning how you have tackled building this engine, thanks for sharing with us.
He was lucky he should have roughed it all out then cut the center part out .. then finished it ..
@@dougiehogarth6652 Hi, that's what I thought Joe would do.
Thanks for giving the other person a plug on her work. That was professional. Love your work Joe. I can identify on the problems involved with these kits. I ordered the Redwing Hit and miss engine from the same company. Having never built anything else like this you can imagine the head scratching I went thru. Set ups were a bear even on a big knee mill. Anyway, at the end of the day it ran like a charm.
This was more fun than I anticipated.
Not sure if this is what you were asking Joe, but the pieces connecting the rod journal to the main shaft are called “webs”. On big engines we put a spring loaded indicator in line with the main shaft where you cut that plug out of the casting and take “web deflections” as the engine is rolled then shim the base of the block to keep the crankshaft aligned. Gas compressor engines can be over 30 feet long with 12 main bearings or more.
Nothing better than doing hot web reading after a few hundred hours of running.
@@k4391 yep, crawling in the crankcase with hot oil dripping from the pistons and liners to get the readings before the iron start cooling down😂
And now after enjoying this build process, I'm looking forward as most people are here to seeing the final assembly and test run. Nicely done Jo, thanks again for taking us on the journey.
Cheers
Pete'.
Thanks for sticking around Pete. Its been fun. I may assemble this today. 12-21-20
Beautiful. People who have never done anything with their hands can't begin to understand the fulfilment you get from completing a project like this well. Nice touch with the file along the shaft Joe, that is art. Happy Christmas from an almost free UK.
Your videos and instructing has been a godsend for me as I am just starting down this model engine avenue. Thanks a million for making them available, you are blessed with great talent. Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones.
Fantastic build! Btw, I create documentation and training materials for a living, and your explanations and instructions are top notch.
Thank you very much. I've written a few tech manuals in the past and try to be thorough without being overwhelming.
Conventional crankshaft operation would have a generous radius where the shaft and rod journal blend into the cheeks for strength. The crank would then have floating thrust washers , larger than the main journals, on either side to mitigate axial loads . The big end of the rod is chamfered to clear the interior radii. Even if Blondi was correcting a machining error it was still a good idea.
Yes it was. I thought the solution was actually better than stock.
Joe Pieczynski It is a better solution and it doubles the thrust surfaces.
Nice when it all comes together. Very interesting watching you file the shaft to size.
In Australia we often call them crank webs.
Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and yours. Waiting to see the engine run.
Harold, are you going to build one?
@@RVJimD absolutely not. I am too fumble fingered to do that without breaking things. I tried one time and just brushed my fingers past a small tap and broke it off in the engine i was trying to build. I was not even turning the tap.
Nice one Joe, great video showing more than one way of doing things. Lathe and mill arrived Friday morning! Got to build them now but we have just moved into full lockdown here is Wales.
regards
Gareth
The last time I used a file on a turning was in high school. The shop teacher showed me how. I was turning a barrel for a black powder cannon (you could do that back then and not get in the shits like nowadays). He said he was going to teach me a little secret. Never thought anything about it 'till you did it. Thanks for the flashback to "the good Ol' days"....Love watching your videos cuz I always learn neat little tricks and tidbits to apply to my procedures. Thanks much fer all your wit an' wisdom. 'Tis priceless...
I appreciate your support.
Yep, you don't need anything other than a way to turn the part and a file. I have a 0.17 caliber cannon barrel sitting just on my desk that I turned up about a decade ago using a cheap Harbor Freight drill press and a file. I did get the bore slightly off center, but then there are original period cannon with bores that are not centered.
I really enjoy the skill's that you show, the way you explain it makes it more easy to understand how things are done. Great work Mr. Joe. By the way the other guys I enjoy seeing plus you are Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker, Adams Booth, and my good friend Mr. Pete (Lyle Peterson). Again great work.
Joe. I really enjoy these videos. I've started running a Haas at 60 yo. I've been in cad cam for 40 of those but never really ran a machine so these videos help out my thought process on setting up and running jobs. Thanks again
Glad you like them!
Hey Joe, thanks for sharing the video. I lost track of how many times I smiled at your comments. How you do things most of the time I would do the same way, and yet I still learn from you on how to tackle something that I would not have thought of. Keep up the good work and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Most of all have a safe Holiday Season with your family and friends.
I am retired now and just ordered this kit. No mill so I will have to get inventive eh.
This has been alot of fun. So many great set ups along the way. Looking forward to the final assembly and the first run. I hope that your family has a wonderful Christmas Joe.
I loved watching both of your takes on this project.
Excellent work Joe! IT IS BEAUTIFUL and thanks for sharing this beautifully detailed piece of work !!!
Great work Joe I always enjoy the care you take with all your projects.
Ingenious work holding as always. Thanks for sharing. Have a great Christmas
Your name should be Mr. Smooth! That is pure art! Thank you for sharing this build. Nice touch of using the file to get the final size on the main shaft. I too do that very thing. SWEET!
I'm not a machinist so the expanding parallel for a positive surface trick really made me think while smiling. Here's wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas and a real
John V. McDivitt triumph upon final assembly. Thank you, Joe Pieczynski.
With this degree of build quality, it would seem appropriate to show that this "miniature toy model" can actually produce a significant amount of power. Clearly, your next project should be a billet one-off miniature working metal planer, belt-driven of course, by the steam engine, (I'm already seeing miniature Abom79 sized chips flying).
This would open up the opportunity to create a complete miniature shop, while all the while entertaining and educating your UA-cam fanbase. Making the world a better place one video at a time. Let's give 10,000 thumbs up if you agree.
I already have the EL1 kit on the bench. I promised myself I wouldn't touch it until this one was up and running.
@@joepie221 I asked for 10,000 thumbs up because I figured that would give you a few days off. But, I have time now (my Lazy-Boy is already fully reclined) so let's fire up the engine so you can get started on whatever an EL1 kit is. ;)
@@kevinsellsit5584 EL1... Engine Lathe kit. 1/12 scale.
@@kevinsellsit5584 And Joe really needs to build a 1/12 scale building with lineshafts to house it in...
@@rennkafer13 Thanks, Bill. We are both thinking this mini shop is going to be awesome! Only 10,000 thumbs up to go.
I owned a machine shop in 1998 in at Otsego Michigan caled Versatec Tool & machine, we did mostly prototype work, short run and one of a kind. The main reason I got into it was that I wanted to build a live steam locomotive. anyway just want to say “WOW very impressed”. Thanks for Sharing, can’t wait to see more of your videos
Thats my favorite kind of work. Thanks for your comment.
Back in Jr. high school, in the 70s, I walked past a tool and die shop that built two locomotives, one after the other, in their shop. Every day I could see the progress on the thing.
I suspect they were not full size, but they were big!
The shop was on Buchanan Ave, across the street from the GM plant, in Wyoming, Michigan.
Has been a wonderful journey, with a lot of information in a excellent way.
My question and I think I am not alone, what next? Thanks again and Merry Christmas!!!!
It will either be the EL1 miniature engine lathe or I will finish my desk top field artillery gun. I've always wanted a brass cannon and only parts have been completed.
Another great video Joe! I always enjoy seeing your work. I was glad to hear you say something about OCD I thought I was the only one that way! I guess having a extrusion mold background doesn't help this much either. Keep up the great work Joe!!
I love these as I have a large one with a 10" flywheel - runs on propane and does generate power to a load. I hope I get to finishing it.
I love the bit at 42:48 when the shaft goes in and the crank drops under gravity without a snag or a hitch. I'm certainly looking forwards to this slowly running, when the only possible noise is the gentle 'click' of the piston-rings in their grooves.
This model glides like its on air. I'm very pleased.
You won't even get those, the piston rings are a plastic material I believe. I could be wrong.
Joe get yourself a replacement collet, when you do the original one will reappear.
Brilliant work.
I'm still learning, started on the tools 50 years.
Crank webs is the name of the parts that locate the bigend at 14.33.
Hi Joe, I'm really enjoying the steam engine videos. I wouldn't always tackle jobs the same way that you do, but I have to say that your methods always work and the level of precision you achieve is truly impressive.
Thank you very much!
Thanks Joe it was just the tonic for our lock down in Australia, looking forward to it running. Ray.
,
Thanks Ray. I'm putting it together today 12-22-20
Joe I have very much enjoyed both your and Quinn's unique approaches too building this kit. You of course being a professional shop and Quinn being a well skilled Hobby shop. Looking forward too seeing both of your machines running . Wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas 🎅🎄.
It looks ready for paint and professionally made.
Thanks. I'll assemble it without paint initially.
Sure is pretty at the end when it's moving so nicely together like a Dance. Awesome job Joe👍👍💃🏻🕺
Thanks so much
That is just poetry right there dam nice I am like a kid at Christmas awaiting the final fit up dam nice job Joe
Thanks Joe, I have been building my kit along with you and thanks to you I have completed all of the parts without ruining any. My bar for success is a bit lower than others, but I have learned so much and really enjoyed the build. No wonder the PM research steam engine #1 is sold out, you caused a run on the store. Now I am looking for another project, I have already built a clock - that was a blast. Steven Conover's "Building an American Clock Movement". So what shall we build next Joe? Have a great holiday season, Take care.
1800's style Brass field artillery cannon or a mini engine lathe.
@@joepie221 If you're not fussed on which, put it to the community for a vote. I suspect it will be a close one as you have a whole new audience of model builders versus engineers. Mini Engine Lather for me. Great Build!
I’m non-denominational and will watch anything you put out with rapt attention. You called yourself a tool-maker in this video, though: please add a tool of some sort to the list eventually! :-)
@@joepie221 I just bought my christmas present from my wife (she does not know it yet), the mini lathe engine kit. We will have more fun next year!
I was ALMOST disappointed but you came through right near the end of the video. 🤣👍
Thanks,
John
Well done as always . It was good to see that the supplier cast the part in to keep the web from collapsing when turning the main journals . Merry Christmas !
Thanks for sharing Joe! It's been a pleasure watching you build this model. Have a Merry Christmas!
Great work. I loved the use of calibrated rubber bands.
They come in handy.
But can you get them in metric? 🙃
Nice work Joe were you not worried when you sawed the center scrap section out your casting could have sprung a bit if your casting was not properly normalized.. I know that didn't happen but it could have.. ( don't ask me how i know) . Safer to leave 10 thou and finish the 2 diameters as a last op.. maybe I'm being super cautious in my old age.. keep safe .. greetings from South Africa.? Would have put a wooden wedge LIGHTLY squeezed in the crank to avoid vibration bringing diameters to size between center's
It's a pleasure to watch craftsmen (and women) at work. Nice one Joe.
JOE ! How nice to see you post again. This will sure be tricky with an old 3 jaw, 3 speed belt drive but I think with a bit of imagination and a bunch of shims it is doable. My files still await the kit's delivery. It has stalled in customs right now so it may be the new year before it's arrival. The bronze spacers sound neat and will look good too. Only the pro's can fix their mistakes eh. As long as there is a nice radius on both sides of the "throw" it will be just as strong or stronger than the print shows. My surface plate is an inch thick, foot square chunk of TQ100 hand filed and surfaced piece of plate. Took days to make it flat but stays within a thou or so all year round. I would go at this with a soft dead blow first. Poss. the small press and massage it eh. Like you always say, " Go gently eh" No carbides for me, all high speed as I just cant get enough rpm out of that beauty old lathe. Besides that I can get high speed sharper than carbide. PS, I still suffer through a few adds for ya bud. Hate them but it dose help ya eh. Wrap that puppy on either side with wide elastic bands on stretched to the limits. Usually works eh. A piece of 400 to 600 grit on a known flat surface makes for such a nice final finish eh. I have used table salt to get super fine polishes on cast. Give that a go one day eh. A big radius on the shaft with accommodating brass washers will make this look way cool. 45 min gone in a second my friend. Onward to assembly now. I predict "0" problems ! ! ! Thanks fella !
Wonderful of course. Just finished my own crankshaft this morning, and I'm happy with it - but good heavens the mirror finish you have on yours is just amazing. Really looking forward to seeing your complete engine assembled. Side note - couldn't help noticing that PM Research sold out of the PMR #1 casting kit last week. I think these youtube builds have sent a lot of business their way!
Edit: It’s back in stock now.
My crank moved a bit when I took the support bridge out. Not enough to be a problem, but one shaft is not true at its extreme end. Bad luck.
I hope everyone that wants to get one, has the chance.
Looks great. Cant wait to see it fired up!
Spectacular. Looking forward to seeing you running this. Compressed air will run it. Steam will make it talk.
Love the build. Keep up the good work. Not only has this series made you smile it has made us smile as well. It is a great teaching video that shows how a professional does it, using tricks that us amateurs may not think of. Have a great Christmas and New Year Joe and family.
Thanks. I hope this series did provide a bunch of brain food for all skill levels. Merry Christmas to you as well.
Great job Joe , after seeing this one run I’d love to see you finish up the cannon. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and are sharing it with family and friends .
Merry Christmas, Joe.
Stay safe and stay healthy.
Thanks,
John
You’re amazing in my opinion. Have someone else check it 🌋😂 love it. Slomo at the end was nice. You’re explanation and execution are flawless, also easy to watch .... Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Thank you very much. I hope you come back for the assembly.
Thank you for those great and inspiring videos! Merry Christmas!
Thanks, same to you!
I've just fabricated a similar crank shaft it has .023 out on one side and about .030 on the other side. It's all part of the fun after watching your vid I'm sure the second attempt will be better.
Thanks for sharing your skill with all of us...
Thanks for watching.
Just a little crankshaft terminology. The rod connects to the rod journal. The offset features are crank webs. The amount of offset is the throw. The endplay bearings are bronze on the other youtube builders. The two long shafts are the main journals. That particular crankshaft does not include the counterweights. Don't be surprised if the engine walks back and forth. Most of mine do even with counterweights.
In my near fifty year career I have overhauled more than my share of diesels. I learned a whole lot using the portable tooling to repair engine blocks in chassis. That is the extent of my machining experience. But still use the same measuring equipment.
Keep up the great job.
P S How about some more cannon building?
Love it! Thanks very much - Have a great Christmas & stay safe.
Damn Joe, that was very well presented! The results speak for themselves.... Looking forward to seeing this thing running!
I may put a muffler on it so it whispers when it runs.
Its a counter weight on the crankshaft.
Nice work. Your vids are very good with the clear explanation of each detail and setup.
Joe
Nope. A counter weight would be opposite of the crank pin to offset the weight of the rod journal and connecting rod.. This crank has no counterweight on it.
I was waiting on the results of whether there was any stress
on the piece after you removed
the web in the throw. But when
you spun the crankshaft I got
my answer.
Thanx for a great video
Stay safe
It stayed true. I was glad.
I am looking forward to final fit up, too. I suppose OCD does have its benefits when it comes to getting a project as close to perfect as this one seems to be. Great series, Joe, thanks for sharing and Happy Christmas!
I have learned a lot from you watching your series on the seam engine. Thanks so much. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family Joe,
Magnificent tradesmanship, have a merry xmas, see you on UA-cam in the New Year.
Thanks, you too!
I don’t think my brain is big enough to take in all the information you put in these videos! Love it...
Pisces w/ADD, it's a great challenge. Thanks for your guidance.
OCD
Very nice work Joe, a pleasure to watch.
Glad you enjoyed it
You only need the crankshaft, base and cross head as an executive desk toy. With the valve block and cylinder there will be even more going on to look and play with. COOL
A desktop cutaway model would be cool to have.
@@joepie221 Hadn't thought of that, great idea.
Maybe some acrylic and polished brass?
I always remember being fascinated by a cut-away Mercedes 6 speed transmission driven by a low rpm electric motor
It's look'n good Joe! Can't wait to see it run.
Very nice technique Joe and great explanations. Love the outcome, cheers and Merry Christmas!
I would liked to have had more info on how the fixture was made to hold the crankshaft for turning the connecting rod journal. More detail on that aspect would be much appreciated. Excellent, informative & outstanding series! Thank you.
Intricate, precise and very satisfying to watch - yes I'm a virgo with OCD too lol Merry christmas Joe and all from the UK :)
Thanks for another great content year. Have a Merry Christmas and New Year to you and yours. Thanks
Happy Holidays everyone and please stay safe this new year. Nice crank, Joe.
Awesome job Joe! Merry Christmas from the Davis family from down under.
Same to you! Thank you.
That's just Superb, thank you for filming this series, looking forward to the final assembly
It came out well. Thanks. Be sure to check out the mini machine(s) series too.
@@joepie221 I sure will, your series on this has inspired me to dust off my Schublin 102 and make the parts I need to get my Mikron F75 working. Thank you
Enjoyed it every step of the way!
Thanks. Me too.
Up till this series , I thought of Joe Pie. as all American apple pie. but now it's more Joe Pi or Joe 3.141. Thank you Joe, watching your videos is like attending a lecture at You Tube University with Prof Joe PI, I learn a lot.
Looking like a work of art Joe!
To be honest, it will give me great joy just looking at it on the shelf. Like a photo album from a great vacation.
Beautiful crankshaft.👍
Nice and straight.
Absolutely spot on with the file. To this day, I still use a file and emery for the last 0.001 - 0.002 on critical parts. Takes longer, but I get finish and size at the same time. Not for production work, but I do custom job type work and it is the way I roll. Joe, have a safe and Merry Christmas! Kudos on this series, well played all the way through!
Hi Joe
nice machining, good to see how you keep it rigid. When I tackle any cast, I am paranoid about internal stresses, and would have maybe put a sawcut through the crank web to let it normalise then epoxy the gap for the first machinings, I know this one was good to you, but generally what do you advise. By the way we 'Brits' can get confused 'Un-Loosen' ....over here it means 'not loosen' i.e. tighten! but hey, we don't get too stressed. Happy Christmas to you all
Magnifico Joe!
This has been such an interesting and gratifying series, just in time for Christmas to which I wish you and your family a merry one.
From a warm Johannesburg, South Africa😊
Same to you! From Joe Pie in Austin Texas USA.
It is nice to be able to turn in both directions. Some only turn one way. Nice Job indeed.
once again Joe you did a wonder job cant wait for you to put some steam to it
Another great video Joe. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it