@JunkyardDigs I like that you mentioned how awful Iowa's highways are to drive on, if you hate potholes and cracks in the road, try Portland, OR, in the PNW our roads cause nightmares for people out east!
The high idle could be from a screw that’s on the throttle body on top of the motor. You’ll be able to see it when you move the throttle with your hand.
Bought a rebuild kit on eBay for computer. Includes all the capacitors. Cost $12. Solder in easily. Fixed running and shifting issues. You can tell the caps are bad if they are leaking or bulging on the top or bottom. Acid will leak out and eat the board and resistors.
@@timschmidt4180that could be TPS, or shift solenoid also. Fords are notorious for that first gear hang up, my ranger does the same thing, and for me if I pump the gas like I'm trying to get turbo at an arcade machine (let off and on the gas again) it'll wake up and shift. So I'm assuming for me it's the TPS and I just don't care enough to dig into it bc it's still running. But honestly your TPS is at the bottom of the throttle body directly below the horn, probably the easiest thing to check, just grab an ohm meter. A 1995 Ford F150 TPS should have about 0.9-1.0 volts at idle and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle.
Yes, you are right about the brake light. My son put LEDs in his 1995 F150 lower brake lights. The transmission would kick out and not go into final gear. After installing a resister, it started shifting perfectly.
The transmission problem is most likely a computer problem. My 1995 f150 with the same transmission had the same problems. The ECM has 3 capacitors that are notorious for leaking and breaking inside and will cause all kinds of issues. For $100 I sent the ECM and the gauge cluster off to a guy to fix and test. Truck runs and shifts perfectly fine now. If I could send you pictures of mine here I would. You will double the price of the truck with a $100 fix.
As others have said check the pcm. This video actually encouraged me to finally pull mine and look for bad caps. I found the 3 caps swollen and leaking acid on the board. The caps have the UF and voltage printed on the side. I was able to order new caps off digikey shipped for less than a 6 pack. After a few days they showed up and I soldered the new ones in making sure to keep the polarity correct. Some of the traces looked broken from the acid leaking on the board so I used a multimeter on continuity to check for breaks. One trace was broken so I soldered in a wire at the two ends of the trace. My E40d now down shifts and uses more than just 3rd gear. I made a post on the OBS ford FB page about it. I noticed someone tried to tag you so I thought I would come over and leave a comment.
@@JunkyardDigs MAP sensors are common issues as well. if the rubber strip on the back of the hood is gone, rain goes into the port. Second, the PSOM (speedo) in the dash has its own capacitor issues. Last, and you can laugh, the 3rd brake light. The ground actually impacts the trans harness/grounds.
I know you've recorded yourself doing brakes a million times, but I always appreciate a refresher on brakes. I do them like twice a year, so it never hurts to see 'em again. Thanks Kevin!
Seeing the two of them in the behind the scenes on the unsubscribe Patreon and then hearing that Nic is also bringing his Toyota technical he got from donut to work on with him has been absolute gold for me I love it
Dude, I just turned 16, and you inspired me through COVID to love classic cars, and want to fix and drive them. Id love to do what you’re doing, but obviously with everything being way overpriced, it’ll be a while. But I can definitely say you’ve been a huge inspiration, and it would be amazing to maybe one day do what you do.
FYI: Those era F150's have issues with the Capacitors blowing inside the ECU causing idle issues. New Capacitors soldered in corrects the problem. The way to diagnose this is to unplug the Power Steer Pressure Switch. If the idle changes Capacitors are corroded or blown. (now ya know)
I had the same transmission issue with my 92 f150, it was that module you took off the trans at 45:00. Inside is a quadrant that moves with the shaft and rides on contact strips, the contacts on the quadrant wear through and the ECM doesn't know what gear it's in.
Its good that you guys have thourough narration of what your doing and why its important. You make it look doable to people that are gonna do a task fo the first time or peopl completely new to wrenchin. Thank you for all you do.😊
27:59 ford connected the fuse for the oxygen sensor heaters to the shift solenoids on the 2000-03 ford Taurus. Its fuse 28, if it blows it keeps the transmission in first gear.
24:49 I feel you on that where the pumps keep stopping when filling the gas tanks on our older trucks. My 93 Ford Ranger has the same issue when filling the tank.
I drove a regular cab 94 F-250 utility truck when I was an HVAC apprentice. Was a 2wd 351 E4OD with a reading bed. Thing was a gutless wonder that drank gas like no other but it was unstoppable. Steering was also equally terrible and terrifying lol.
Well thanks to you, Kevin, (and Mook!) along with Dalton and Chris from NNKH, I was motivated to buy and fix up a $1000 marketplace 95 F-150 Supercab (4.9 automatic with 270K on the clock). After sitting for about 4 years, it “only needed a starter”… and brakes, plugs, shocks, tires, u-joints, complete tie rods and 2 new gas tanks with pumps! But it really ran great after I put JYD and PBG stickers on it! 😄 Also gave it the Sea Foam/Berryman’s/Marvel Mystery treatment. I am having an issue with voltage. Getting 512 code for the ECM losing power, I believe it’s happening at startup, when the starter is cranking. I’m fixing to replace the battery ground cable that goes through the clip on the frame, then to the starter. I’ve had issues with that setup in the past. I’ll go straight to the starter, then back to the frame. And I’ll clean up the ground strap from the intake to the firewall. Then there’s only 14 more ground connections to check after that! 🙄 That will also cause shifting problems since the ECM won’t know when to tell the transmission to shift.
For the high idle my truck a couple years older same engine same problem. I tried spark plugs spark plug wires cap rotor new vacuum lines new idle air control valve I tried plugging certain vacuum lines nothing was working. And when I continue to do research it kept coming up as a possible fuel pressure regulator. I asked my stepdad who was a ford mechanic he said that you would usually find gas sitting in the vacuum line I found no gas sitting in the vacuum line but there was the smell of gas in the vacuum line. So then I decided to fork up the 60 or $70 to get the fuel pressure regulator. Took the old one out put the new one in and started it up better gas mileage no more high idle running like a dream.
Ball Joint / Outer Tie Rod Tip.... I've bought the cheap non greasable ones and drilled a small hole where the zerk fitting normally goes and installed a zerk fitting and made them greasable in the past.
Hey digs check the grounds to the engine and the transmission! My obs had a bad ground and one $10 cable down to the transmission fixed the issue! You can always try it for free with a jumper cable and see if it shifts better lol
Kevin, on the obs fords powersteering gear box there is a flathead bolt with a jam nut. Tighten the flathead bolt to take up any play in the steering. Thanks for the Great video guys!
Really enjoy the duo of you and Angus. Hope you are paying him well. At times i miss mook doing her stuff. Hope she is ok and is having fun with her house, animals and fixing cars!
I'm loving this whole "Loose Ends with Agnus" series. For years you've been doing the "Buy old iron, get it running sort of", but once in a while it's a good reminder to finish stuff up, even if it means having more money than brains and just aiming the parts cannon at it. You should be a tiny bit lecturey at the start of these to add some narrative, it's thematically useful.
Agreeing with most people. You've gone thru pretty much all the typical causes in order (high mount brake light, VSS), next most likely is PSOM (Programmable Speedometer-Odometer Module). You can either get a cluster off a 96-97 gasser and swap that in, pull the PSOM off of your cluster and swap it with a spare PSOM, or send the PSOM to someone to test and rebuild. I don't have recommendations for a rebuilder, sadly. Clusters ARE "gated" by 2 years (92-93, 94-95, 96-97), although you can use ones from the "wrong" year bracket if you repin your harness. IDK if the PSOM itself varies between the years (or between gasser and diesel). IDK if you can remove PSOM without removing the whole cluster. The two ribbon cables that plug into the rear of the harness are held in with brittle, 30 year old plastic, making it a bear to get them out without damaging anything. You can pull the front plastic off the cluster with a T20 or T25 bit or somewhere around a 5-8mm socket (trying to remember offhand, it's been a year since I've messed with the cluster in my 95). Since this truck is a 97 it might be OBD2 (passenger side, under the ash tray) or glove box). Any high end scanner should be able to monitor sensors, or you can download FORscan on a laptop (free) or your phone (paid) and use one of their recommended OBD2 plugs to connect. You might be able to diag with that, but I don't have much experience there since my truck hasn't had transmission issues. The E4OD isn't bad, necessarily.. there's plenty of worse automatics out there. It's definitely a weird one. Over engineered in some ways, very sensitive in others.
Check your third brake light. They can make the transmission do funny things. It could be the PCM as well. You can pull it and open the case and you may see some burnt pieces.
The oil pressure gage in these trucks in the dash are just dummy lights with a needle, all it says is you have pressure and that’s it, there is another one that tells the computer what the actual pressure is, the one that’s hooked up to the gage is next to the oil filter
I would look into the PSOM board in the cluster. The speed sensor signal is converted from analog to digital on that. Then that's what's used for the ECM to shift. I have new PSOM boards!
@@Reaver-Altar The tach gets the RPM signal from the ECM. Where as the ECM gets the speed signal from the PSOM. The PSOM take the analog sine wave produced by the vehicle speed sensor on the differential and converts it to a digital pulse per mile signal that the ABS module and ECM use for shifting. The speedometer and A to D converter are separate on the board. So even though the speedometer works it may not be making that A to D conversion and sending it to the ECM for shifting.
@@Reaver-Altar if you actually look at a wiring diagram and a harness for one of these trucks you will see that the twisted pair of wires from the vehicle speed sensor on the differential go directly to the back of the cluster. From there it goes to the ECM and abs module.
Had a 97 that had similar Gremlins though more high idle and rough idle with everything replaced just worked for a bit then back to what it was doing and the torque converter lockup problem. It was the Reference Voltage would go all crazy only when driving and ended up being the vapor pressure sensor on top of tank had a wire rubbed through occasionally shorting out reference voltage on a rusty cross member above rear tank. once we found that and threw a but connector in the break it was a new truck. So my advice is trace all the 3 wire sensors back a bit especially the vapor pressure sensor and any other pressure sensors and look for a wire rubbed through.
Thank you for the ballpoint tutorial. Used your video to do mine today. Went pretty smooth, but took me about 6 hours in my garage with basic tools. My vice came in handy to hold the spindle while I pressed the ballpoint.
As the latest care taker of an October of 97 OBS F250 Heavy duty Highboy 4x4 with the 351W and needing to do the brakes this is my favorite video as I'm a little intimidated as it will be my first time with having to mess with the wheel bearings ( all my other vehicles have been lighter so the rotors are not the hubs as well
Dad was a Ford tech from the early 80s to late 90s. And I asked about the brake light. Was told "oh fuck yes" and then heard some awesome stories about diy diagnostics for ford 1 peice wiring harnesses
I lucked out big time! Found a one owner 92 F250 7.5L XLT 2WD with 183.000kms. Has OD, 4.10 rear, limited slip. Driven 7000 kms in the last 12yrs. Mint interior, non smoker. The engine is smooth and is more quiet than our 2018 Kia Sorento 3.3L V6. Rips through the gears and shifts perfectly, however there is a bit of shutter between 50-75kmh. Changed the trans oil. Still there, will buy an OBD1 scanner to diagnose it. Otherwise the truck is in amazing condition!!
My transmission problem in my 97 f-350 was the gas pedal itself. As explained to me is it’s like a dimmer switch in a house and eventually the contact points wear out and confuses the whole system! My buddy had a parts truck and after installing that one it worked great!
@@zenithcoinsandhobbiesI was a huge fan of the old Roadkill episodes and kind of see it as the 'perfect format' (Friends on a trip, learning about different technologies, fixing things, industrial history and beautiful landscapes). This channel continues what Roadkill set out to do and I also really like the guys!
@@ThePostApocalypticInventor I totally get your sentiment. The old episodes of Roadkill are my favorites as well, and even my mother, who is not all that into old cars, still likes watching them because of the road trip aspect.
How did the alignment shop miss that bad tie rid end going to the pitman arm. Always the first thing you look for when doing a alignment is worn or broken front end parts
They said it was a toe and go also cutting in line they probably knew but people have their own work schedules and there's only so much you can do at any time
That shift position sensor you tried to change looks different for a reason, you have the old oval style which where notorious for getting water into them, corroding and shorting. Causes wierd shifts and also in my case caused my car to randomly neutral or go into 2nd at freeway speeds. The one you bought is the updated part with the square connector, however they ususally come with a a wiring kit. You can either de-pin the original harness and repin it into the new plug or splice all the wires. Dorman makes a kit that had the plug and harness with it. It could also be the PCM capacitors like a few others have mentioned (there is not a separate TCM). Either way its a pain, good luck man.
I went through this on a 97 F-350 5.8 E4od 4x4. It's most likely tps related. Ford eec iv relies extensively on tps signal but will also run decently without any tps input with the exception of high idle and bad shift points. Mine lost the +5v to the tps, it was a broken wire by the ecm. You can check it with a multi meter or use a scanner to see the live data. Mine 97 was still obd1 and I have an actron odb1 scanner that read live data. Good luck! I haven't finished the video yet incase you figured it out later.
Thunderer ranger AT-R 10ply tires are really good for an off brand tire. I've never had a problem. I have them installed on my 7,400lb suburban and I off-road with those tires. They do great in the snow, mud and etc. Even while street driving they handle well and are very smooth and not really noisy on pavement. I definitely recommend them.
When shifting from 2 to drive, click the overdrive button on the end of the shift lever once in drive. This should leave the transmission in 3rd and once you need overdrive just click the button again and bam, you should be in overdrive. I had a 96 F-250 460 truck that had the same problem and that's what we did until we changed the trans filter and fluid which solved the problem.
Like I said before , you got it made out there, In MD you don't drive with no plate, you got to go to the DMV and get a temp plate before you move that vehicle or it's going to the impound and your getting a ticket LOL
I had a 94 T-bird V8 that had the same trans issue, changed the fluid and filter used 4 qts of B&M trick shift in place of some of the fluid and a tube of lube guard shutter fix and that transmission worked great for years - I changed fluid every 2 yrs or 20k miles
Check the wiring harness from transmission to fuse box. I replaced all switches and sensors, even transmission and still had the same problem. 1 broken wire soldered back together and it shifts perfectly now
Excellent video and entertaining to boot! There are a LOT of those trucks still in daily service in our rather rural area of South Carolina. The ones I have had the chance to examine had the 300cid, 351cid, and the ones that were used for really, really heavy-duty use had the 460cid engines. The 302cid engine Ford put in its trucks from the 1970s through about 2000 was crap. It had no guts and was considered an "explode-a-matic" as was the weak auto transmission it was attached to.
The 4R100 isn't so great, the ZF-5 S47 was an incredible transmission behind a 351w, that drive train is practically unkillable, just enough power to get it done, not enough to hurt it's self.
I'd check the alternator and make sure the rectifiers are good, they went bad on my super duty and caused issues with the 4r100 shifting just like yours. The 4r100 is just a upgraded e40d. Eventually it took out my headlights and taillights and idle air control valve, replaced those and the alternator and no more issues
I'm glad you guys figured out the high idle issue I was going to suggest the little sensor by the heater box that has the hard plastic vacuum line to it and a connector with three wires. Not sure what it's called but it solved the high idle in my bronco ii, and f250. And a friends e350. I just pull them from the wrecking yard when I find them 😅
Watching y’all tap that tie rod with a little finishing hammer I was literally said “y’all need a bigger hammer” and then it proceeded to Kevin smacking it with a maul. Mission accomplished boys.
The ford dealership isnt lying. I worked for a ford dealer in colorado and did infact fix vehicles and do oil changes in the parking lot if bays were filled. Actually preferred it as the inside of the shop was like a stupid high school with the way even the senior mechanic acted.
Also you can check the notorious shift spring issue it likes to start backing off and causes shifting issues!!!! had a 1991 f250 custom e4od auto trans with that problem
I noticed when the truck first starts it has a hard knock that instantly goes away. I had a AMC HORNET that did the same thing. Turned out to be the torque converter. Mite play in with the odd shifting.put it on the lift and see if the knock is in the bell housing erea.
Seems To Me I've Heard Mention Of That Dealership Name In A Movie Or TV Show Before. Something Like "His Dad Owns Harrison Ford! The Dealership Not The Actor" Can't Remember Where Though.
im not done with the video yet but i can tell you on my 92 obs ford with a 302 that it doesnt like to idle down cold which when i installed a thermostat that was way to cold because it was cheaper on rockauto the truck would never idle down correctly. not sure if maybe there is an incorrect thermostat, stuck open thermostat, or just no thermostat in your truck but its worth a look
Others have commented that the problem may be bad capacitors in the ECM. It may or may not be the cause. But they are notorious for leaking and the acid can eat away the pcb and traces making the unit unrepairable. Would be worth the time to open it up just to check for any bulging or leaking caps.
I would most likely start with the solenoid block. When manually shifted, the transmission works correctly, the valve are no longer controlled by the solenoid. If all gears work correctly when shifted manually, solenoid block is the starting point. Dennis, Certified Transmission Santee.
Yeah, had this issue with a '99 Explorer with the 5R-55E. Would slip like crazy if you went from neutral to drive and then took off. If you manually shifted from 1st on up to drive, it would shift normally, then, once you did that, you could leave it in drive and it'd work normally. The kicker was that, for a while, we had it working perfectly after having a transmission shop change the fluid. Then, about a year later, someone took the truck to Jiffy Lube. Their infamous Power Flush was done. Transmission went back to acting up.
About the transmission, check your signal from the speed sensor, sometimes they corrode and don't send the signal right to the computer, also check trans fluid, sometimes is just like that, about the engine, check the pcv valves, they sometimes broke of and make a huge leak, I got an old 90' F-350 with the same transmission but with a 460 engine, took me a while figure the vacuum leaks out, the transmission is slacky by itself, but once working decent, is pretty dang good, Another thing you can do is run a KOER and KOEO test, maybe you can find what's wrong there, maybe you got a bad signal to the trans harness connector of the solenoid pack, if you can't get anything on there, check the harness itself, maybe you got some wires melted up and shorting out, it happened to me once because of the exhaust too close to the harness, if that's good too, your ecm is junk
OEM non-greaseable ball joints are usually a better option than greaseable joints. The non-greaseable OEM ones typically have a teflon bushing that completely prevents any metal to metal contact that the greaseable joints don’t have and they typically last far longer.
Im 16 years old and i worked my but off to get the truck I have which is a 86 S10 you really inspire me to keep working on my truck I may not have the money to fix it right now but soon I know I will be able to thanks for the inspiration and keeping me in doing this and maybe one day I'll be able to do something like you whenever I get my truck fixed to be an accomplishment for me
It's not a '97. The 97's were only diesel in that body style, you probably have a late 96. For the transmission: the capacitors are probably bad in the PCM causing irregular signals to the entire truck. Capacitors only have about a 10-15 year life under normal conditions before they start failing. With $5 in capacitors and a soldering iron you can fix it
I had the same problem with the transmission! Mine would always show up when the dash wouldn't show the digital. The fix was literally the fuse that the dash lights are on. Please let it be that simple for you guys
ONLY 3 WEEKS LEFT Get your limited time I HATE HEADGASKETS shirt here!!
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Ordered mine last night.
@JunkyardDigs I like that you mentioned how awful Iowa's highways are to drive on, if you hate potholes and cracks in the road, try Portland, OR, in the PNW our roads cause nightmares for people out east!
"What's this I hear about you having problems with your TPS reports?" "Yeah, didn't you get that memo?" :)
The high idle could be from a screw that’s on the throttle body on top of the motor. You’ll be able to see it when you move the throttle with your hand.
Angus has been a wonderful addition, his comedic timing and quips are great
yes i agree but we need to see more Mook as well !
👍👍👍👍👍👍
his "tractor beam" was certainly a classic . . .
Angus reminds me a lot of Jeremiah from donut and Mike from Roadkill.
Kevin is the perfect straight man to Angus and Mook’s comedic zingers and shenanigans
Angus is an awesome addition to the channel. His sense of humor keeps me rollin 😂😂
Bought a rebuild kit on eBay for computer. Includes all the capacitors. Cost $12. Solder in easily. Fixed running and shifting issues. You can tell the caps are bad if they are leaking or bulging on the top or bottom. Acid will leak out and eat the board and resistors.
Does that fix a 1995 f250 7.3 that likes to hang in first gear to long but rest shift fine
@@timschmidt4180 need to open ecm and look at capacitors.
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@@timschmidt4180the powerstroke PCM doesn't have the same capacitors as the gassers do. It's not likely your issue
@@timschmidt4180that could be TPS, or shift solenoid also. Fords are notorious for that first gear hang up, my ranger does the same thing, and for me if I pump the gas like I'm trying to get turbo at an arcade machine (let off and on the gas again) it'll wake up and shift. So I'm assuming for me it's the TPS and I just don't care enough to dig into it bc it's still running. But honestly your TPS is at the bottom of the throttle body directly below the horn, probably the easiest thing to check, just grab an ohm meter. A 1995 Ford F150 TPS should have about 0.9-1.0 volts at idle and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle.
I loved that interaction with the cop.
“Any questions for me?”
“Uhhhhh do you want a sticker?”
“Do YOU want a sticker”
“YOU HAVE STICKERS?!?!?”
She won effortlessly
The stickers are for kids maybe she was sending a message?
Was she as hot as she sounded?
🤣🤣
Yes, you are right about the brake light. My son put LEDs in his 1995 F150 lower brake lights. The transmission would kick out and not go into final gear. After installing a resister, it started shifting perfectly.
The transmission problem is most likely a computer problem. My 1995 f150 with the same transmission had the same problems. The ECM has 3 capacitors that are notorious for leaking and breaking inside and will cause all kinds of issues. For $100 I sent the ECM and the gauge cluster off to a guy to fix and test. Truck runs and shifts perfectly fine now.
If I could send you pictures of mine here I would. You will double the price of the truck with a $100 fix.
Also the psom and the vss could also be an issue, still at the start of the video
@@thinman4648 True, but my 95 has 640,000 miles in the original 351w, I don’t think any of those sensors have ever been replaced.
Throttle position sensor will hold the rims high, then absolutely blast into the next gear
My thoughts the same👍@@olikat8
its always a computer issue with FORDs ain't it.
The best is the timing of "One Liner Angus." The randomness of the lines cracks me up. Keep up the good work guys.
"Tractor beam". now THAT has to be his best one yet.
Can't wait to adapt that one to the first tractor I see while my family is around.
That was a good one😂
❤❤❤❤❤❤
Yes, Angus was really quick on that one.
That one caught me off guard! 😂😂😂
As others have said check the pcm. This video actually encouraged me to finally pull mine and look for bad caps. I found the 3 caps swollen and leaking acid on the board. The caps have the UF and voltage printed on the side. I was able to order new caps off digikey shipped for less than a 6 pack. After a few days they showed up and I soldered the new ones in making sure to keep the polarity correct. Some of the traces looked broken from the acid leaking on the board so I used a multimeter on continuity to check for breaks. One trace was broken so I soldered in a wire at the two ends of the trace. My E40d now down shifts and uses more than just 3rd gear. I made a post on the OBS ford FB page about it. I noticed someone tried to tag you so I thought I would come over and leave a comment.
Gave that a try, they all looked good, no change. 😢
@@JunkyardDigs MAP sensors are common issues as well. if the rubber strip on the back of the hood is gone, rain goes into the port.
Second, the PSOM (speedo) in the dash has its own capacitor issues.
Last, and you can laugh, the 3rd brake light. The ground actually impacts the trans harness/grounds.
@@JunkyardDigseven if the caps look fine you should still test them either with an esr meter in circuit or pull them and test them with your meter.
I know you've recorded yourself doing brakes a million times, but I always appreciate a refresher on brakes. I do them like twice a year, so it never hurts to see 'em again. Thanks Kevin!
34:16 "Brandon Herrera please fix Kevin's transmission" is the best line I never thought I would need to hear
I thought "Top notch crackheads" was way better....
Seeing the two of them in the behind the scenes on the unsubscribe Patreon and then hearing that Nic is also bringing his Toyota technical he got from donut to work on with him has been absolute gold for me I love it
@@Frodofraggins27 Wait, really? I don't have moolah so I don't have the Patreon content, but that sounds frickin' awesome
@@funman37 oh 100%, their Patreon content is gold best $5 a month I ever spent.
"Nyet, pickup is fine!" -Brandon Herrera probably
When I turned 16 I was given a 1994 F-250 2 door long bed with the 351 Windsor, 4x4, and a 5 speed manual. I still have it and I still love it.
I want one I love the facelift on those trucks. If I can buy one I am modernized the interior to 2000 to 2016 with a aftermarket radio.
The fact that Kevin listed the engine options but forgot the most important and best option of the 7.3 powerstroke surprised the hell out of me
Same I was about to say the same thing but you beat me to it
Peg approves this message.
@@sootyjim peg’s not really a fan of the 7.3 powerstroke, he’s more interested in the 7.3 IDI
I agree can't forget the 7.3, and at least they didn't get saddled with the 6.0
Kevin reluctantly works on diesels and only if they are weird and rare like an Oldsmobile diesel. Kevin is a gasser at heart.
Dude, I just turned 16, and you inspired me through COVID to love classic cars, and want to fix and drive them. Id love to do what you’re doing, but obviously with everything being way overpriced, it’ll be a while. But I can definitely say you’ve been a huge inspiration, and it would be amazing to maybe one day do what you do.
FYI: Those era F150's have issues with the Capacitors blowing inside the ECU causing idle issues. New Capacitors soldered in corrects the problem. The way to diagnose this is to unplug the Power Steer Pressure Switch. If the idle changes Capacitors are corroded or blown. (now ya know)
I had the same transmission issue with my 92 f150, it was that module you took off the trans at 45:00. Inside is a quadrant that moves with the shaft and rides on contact strips, the contacts on the quadrant wear through and the ECM doesn't know what gear it's in.
35:00 - Harrison Ford saves Kevin’s Bacon…
I’m sorry.
😂
😁😁😁😁😁😁
Hell yeah!!!! 😂
That was great. 😆
Its good that you guys have thourough narration of what your doing and why its important. You make it look doable to people that are gonna do a task fo the first time or peopl completely new to wrenchin. Thank you for all you do.😊
27:59 ford connected the fuse for the oxygen sensor heaters to the shift solenoids on the 2000-03 ford Taurus. Its fuse 28, if it blows it keeps the transmission in first gear.
24:49 I feel you on that where the pumps keep stopping when filling the gas tanks on our older trucks. My 93 Ford Ranger has the same issue when filling the tank.
Chetek resident here, Glad to see you guys continuing to enjoy this quiet neck of the woods.
i love angus, dont ever change, man. you are the perfect show wingman to kevin.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
I drove a regular cab 94 F-250 utility truck when I was an HVAC apprentice. Was a 2wd 351 E4OD with a reading bed. Thing was a gutless wonder that drank gas like no other but it was unstoppable. Steering was also equally terrible and terrifying lol.
Well thanks to you, Kevin, (and Mook!) along with Dalton and Chris from NNKH, I was motivated to buy and fix up a $1000 marketplace 95 F-150 Supercab (4.9 automatic with 270K on the clock). After sitting for about 4 years, it “only needed a starter”… and brakes, plugs, shocks, tires, u-joints, complete tie rods and 2 new gas tanks with pumps!
But it really ran great after I put JYD and PBG stickers on it! 😄
Also gave it the Sea Foam/Berryman’s/Marvel Mystery treatment.
I am having an issue with voltage. Getting 512 code for the ECM losing power, I believe it’s happening at startup, when the starter is cranking. I’m fixing to replace the battery ground cable that goes through the clip on the frame, then to the starter. I’ve had issues with that setup in the past. I’ll go straight to the starter, then back to the frame. And I’ll clean up the ground strap from the intake to the firewall. Then there’s only 14 more ground connections to check after that! 🙄
That will also cause shifting problems since the ECM won’t know when to tell the transmission to shift.
For the high idle my truck a couple years older same engine same problem. I tried spark plugs spark plug wires cap rotor new vacuum lines new idle air control valve I tried plugging certain vacuum lines nothing was working. And when I continue to do research it kept coming up as a possible fuel pressure regulator. I asked my stepdad who was a ford mechanic he said that you would usually find gas sitting in the vacuum line I found no gas sitting in the vacuum line but there was the smell of gas in the vacuum line. So then I decided to fork up the 60 or $70 to get the fuel pressure regulator. Took the old one out put the new one in and started it up better gas mileage no more high idle running like a dream.
Ball Joint / Outer Tie Rod Tip.... I've bought the cheap non greasable ones and drilled a small hole where the zerk fitting normally goes and installed a zerk fitting and made them greasable in the past.
I good genuine friendship makes all the difference , love watching you both having a genuine good time whilst entertaining us the viewers
Hey digs check the grounds to the engine and the transmission! My obs had a bad ground and one $10 cable down to the transmission fixed the issue! You can always try it for free with a jumper cable and see if it shifts better lol
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@@Hoa-Mechanical 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Kevin, on the obs fords powersteering gear box there is a flathead bolt with a jam nut. Tighten the flathead bolt to take up any play in the steering.
Thanks for the Great video guys!
Really enjoy the duo of you and Angus. Hope you are paying him well. At times i miss mook doing her stuff. Hope she is ok and is having fun with her house, animals and fixing cars!
Perfect timing I JUST got home from work. Lets see how angus gets to suffer this week!
That’s a great name for the B channel Angus’s suffering lol 😂
It's not like it's ANOTHER olds diesel
MLCAPE 😂 what a name
It's just one step away from really mild torture porn at this point.
The cars are taking a back seat. And I'm ok with it.
This week on How Angus Gets To Suffer! Lol
I'm loving this whole "Loose Ends with Agnus" series. For years you've been doing the "Buy old iron, get it running sort of", but once in a while it's a good reminder to finish stuff up, even if it means having more money than brains and just aiming the parts cannon at it. You should be a tiny bit lecturey at the start of these to add some narrative, it's thematically useful.
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Agreeing with most people. You've gone thru pretty much all the typical causes in order (high mount brake light, VSS), next most likely is PSOM (Programmable Speedometer-Odometer Module).
You can either get a cluster off a 96-97 gasser and swap that in, pull the PSOM off of your cluster and swap it with a spare PSOM, or send the PSOM to someone to test and rebuild. I don't have recommendations for a rebuilder, sadly. Clusters ARE "gated" by 2 years (92-93, 94-95, 96-97), although you can use ones from the "wrong" year bracket if you repin your harness. IDK if the PSOM itself varies between the years (or between gasser and diesel).
IDK if you can remove PSOM without removing the whole cluster. The two ribbon cables that plug into the rear of the harness are held in with brittle, 30 year old plastic, making it a bear to get them out without damaging anything. You can pull the front plastic off the cluster with a T20 or T25 bit or somewhere around a 5-8mm socket (trying to remember offhand, it's been a year since I've messed with the cluster in my 95).
Since this truck is a 97 it might be OBD2 (passenger side, under the ash tray) or glove box). Any high end scanner should be able to monitor sensors, or you can download FORscan on a laptop (free) or your phone (paid) and use one of their recommended OBD2 plugs to connect. You might be able to diag with that, but I don't have much experience there since my truck hasn't had transmission issues.
The E4OD isn't bad, necessarily.. there's plenty of worse automatics out there. It's definitely a weird one. Over engineered in some ways, very sensitive in others.
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It's gas not gasser, and the PSOm never changed pinouts, and only calfiornia spec F-250HD-F-350 gas are OBD2, federal trucks are still EEC-IV OBD1.
My truck did that (97' 7.3 E4OD) And it turned out to be the PSOM module on the back of the cluster. Sent it out for repair and worked beautiful.
Check your third brake light. They can make the transmission do funny things. It could be the PCM as well. You can pull it and open the case and you may see some burnt pieces.
The oil pressure gage in these trucks in the dash are just dummy lights with a needle, all it says is you have pressure and that’s it, there is another one that tells the computer what the actual pressure is, the one that’s hooked up to the gage is next to the oil filter
I would look into the PSOM board in the cluster. The speed sensor signal is converted from analog to digital on that. Then that's what's used for the ECM to shift. I have new PSOM boards!
I noticed the tach was working but thought the transmission didn't know the RPMs. I bet it's a broken wire though.
@@Reaver-Altar The tach gets the RPM signal from the ECM. Where as the ECM gets the speed signal from the PSOM. The PSOM take the analog sine wave produced by the vehicle speed sensor on the differential and converts it to a digital pulse per mile signal that the ABS module and ECM use for shifting. The speedometer and A to D converter are separate on the board. So even though the speedometer works it may not be making that A to D conversion and sending it to the ECM for shifting.
@@Reaver-Altar if you actually look at a wiring diagram and a harness for one of these trucks you will see that the twisted pair of wires from the vehicle speed sensor on the differential go directly to the back of the cluster. From there it goes to the ECM and abs module.
Only Ford would put critical system electronics inside the damn speedometer.
@@brianlojeckIt’s a pretty simple setup, it works!
I have this identical truck but 4wd with a 7.3 powerstroke and 5 speed. It will pull down a f'ing house. These trucks rock.
Had a 97 that had similar Gremlins though more high idle and rough idle with everything replaced just worked for a bit then back to what it was doing and the torque converter lockup problem. It was the Reference Voltage would go all crazy only when driving and ended up being the vapor pressure sensor on top of tank had a wire rubbed through occasionally shorting out reference voltage on a rusty cross member above rear tank. once we found that and threw a but connector in the break it was a new truck. So my advice is trace all the 3 wire sensors back a bit especially the vapor pressure sensor and any other pressure sensors and look for a wire rubbed through.
Thank you for the ballpoint tutorial. Used your video to do mine today. Went pretty smooth, but took me about 6 hours in my garage with basic tools. My vice came in handy to hold the spindle while I pressed the ballpoint.
We narrowly missed the Tractor Beam.
Is the Most Iowan thing I've ever heard!
I'm so happy Angus is a regular now
agreed
Hopefully moog is well
Angus is now a employee of Kevin. So he will be in many video's.
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Angus is like an uncle to the show. Good mix.
Damn it Kevin every time you go to Chetek Wisconsin you drive literally right past where I live and I seem to always miss you as you drive by!!!
As the latest care taker of an October of 97 OBS F250 Heavy duty Highboy 4x4 with the 351W and needing to do the brakes this is my favorite video as I'm a little intimidated as it will be my first time with having to mess with the wheel bearings ( all my other vehicles have been lighter so the rotors are not the hubs as well
Sounds like your PCM . I Had the same problem with my 1994 chevy C1500. Swap that out now it shifts like a dream. Hope this will help
Dad was a Ford tech from the early 80s to late 90s. And I asked about the brake light. Was told "oh fuck yes" and then heard some awesome stories about diy diagnostics for ford 1 peice wiring harnesses
I LOVE these videos of revisiting and finishing old channel projects!
Am glad to see Junkyard Digs putting a video out, was hoping that they were all ok what with all the storms that have hit their part of the world.
I lucked out big time! Found a one owner 92 F250 7.5L XLT 2WD with 183.000kms. Has OD, 4.10 rear, limited slip. Driven 7000 kms in the last 12yrs. Mint interior, non smoker. The engine is smooth and is more quiet than our 2018 Kia Sorento 3.3L V6. Rips through the gears and shifts perfectly, however there is a bit of shutter between 50-75kmh. Changed the trans oil. Still there, will buy an OBD1 scanner to diagnose it. Otherwise the truck is in amazing condition!!
My transmission problem in my 97 f-350 was the gas pedal itself. As explained to me is it’s like a dimmer switch in a house and eventually the contact points wear out and confuses the whole system! My buddy had a parts truck and after installing that one it worked great!
I've caught myself binge watching your channel lately. Very happy to see a new video!
Love your videos too! Great to see people have such similar interests 😂
Wow, interesting (but not unexpected) to see TPAI here!
@@zenithcoinsandhobbiesI was a huge fan of the old Roadkill episodes and kind of see it as the 'perfect format' (Friends on a trip, learning about different technologies, fixing things, industrial history and beautiful landscapes). This channel continues what Roadkill set out to do and I also really like the guys!
@@ThePostApocalypticInventor I totally get your sentiment. The old episodes of Roadkill are my favorites as well, and even my mother, who is not all that into old cars, still likes watching them because of the road trip aspect.
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This work never ends. I just got of work to watch you work. In Wisconsin that truck would have been picked up ASAP..
How did the alignment shop miss that bad tie rid end going to the pitman arm. Always the first thing you look for when doing a alignment is worn or broken front end parts
They said it was a toe and go also cutting in line they probably knew but people have their own work schedules and there's only so much you can do at any time
That shift position sensor you tried to change looks different for a reason, you have the old oval style which where notorious for getting water into them, corroding and shorting. Causes wierd shifts and also in my case caused my car to randomly neutral or go into 2nd at freeway speeds. The one you bought is the updated part with the square connector, however they ususally come with a a wiring kit. You can either de-pin the original harness and repin it into the new plug or splice all the wires. Dorman makes a kit that had the plug and harness with it.
It could also be the PCM capacitors like a few others have mentioned (there is not a separate TCM).
Either way its a pain, good luck man.
I went through this on a 97 F-350 5.8 E4od 4x4. It's most likely tps related. Ford eec iv relies extensively on tps signal but will also run decently without any tps input with the exception of high idle and bad shift points. Mine lost the +5v to the tps, it was a broken wire by the ecm. You can check it with a multi meter or use a scanner to see the live data. Mine 97 was still obd1 and I have an actron odb1 scanner that read live data. Good luck! I haven't finished the video yet incase you figured it out later.
LOVE those old OBS Fords. End 80s to end of 90s, love em
Your statement is redundant.
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@@jeffmcdonald730UA-cam comment section is the wrong place to go look for comments that are not redundant.
Those trucks are amazing, that's why there is a lot still on the road. Ours has only 330k miles, all original.
trheres a truck my father owns, it says it has over 600K miles but I cant believe it and
@@Jawn-t9p I'd believe it.
I love that the junkyard you dig from now is your yard 😂
Thunderer ranger AT-R 10ply tires are really good for an off brand tire. I've never had a problem. I have them installed on my 7,400lb suburban and I off-road with those tires. They do great in the snow, mud and etc. Even while street driving they handle well and are very smooth and not really noisy on pavement. I definitely recommend them.
When shifting from 2 to drive, click the overdrive button on the end of the shift lever once in drive. This should leave the transmission in 3rd and once you need overdrive just click the button again and bam, you should be in overdrive. I had a 96 F-250 460 truck that had the same problem and that's what we did until we changed the trans filter and fluid which solved the problem.
Like I said before , you got it made out there, In MD you don't drive with no plate, you got to go to the DMV and get a temp plate before you move that vehicle or it's going to the impound and your getting a ticket LOL
Can't live in a place like that lol
I think the California wagon should be next with the 351 Windsor engine if still have it
love those 90s style of pickup trucks 👀
80s are better imo
@@skylermummert24 that’s a fair opinion, especially the Dodge pickups of that era
@@ST0NE_206 Chevy looked better in the 80s too, fords have always looked good but I’m a ford guy haha
@@skylermummert24 80s Fords looked almost exactly the same.
@@mdmyer 80s fords look way better than 90s late 80s yes look almost the same as the early mid 90s
I had a 94 T-bird V8 that had the same trans issue, changed the fluid and filter used 4 qts of B&M trick shift in place of some of the fluid and a tube of lube guard shutter fix and that transmission worked great for years - I changed fluid every 2 yrs or 20k miles
Check the wiring harness from transmission to fuse box. I replaced all switches and sensors, even transmission and still had the same problem. 1 broken wire soldered back together and it shifts perfectly now
First Dylan McCool and now Junkyard. This is a good day
Now all we need is some pbg
@@nathanatkisson312 ah yes the king of the self tapper
@@DJsBackup Yes,,, LOL!! But he gets er done......... And amazingly sometimes well...
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Kevin and Angus are the comedy duo we all need.
Yes, but I still miss Mook.
She seemed unhappy and camera shy in the last diesel cutlass video. Poor moog
A Ford dealership called Harrison. Brilliant!
Then, in the background at Kevin's house, must be "Robert". The Red Ford.
If you haven't yet, try the module on the end of the shifter where you press for OD. The whole thing comes out. I had this problem once
Excellent video and entertaining to boot! There are a LOT of those trucks still in daily service in our rather rural area of South Carolina. The ones I have had the chance to examine had the 300cid, 351cid, and the ones that were used for really, really heavy-duty use had the 460cid engines. The 302cid engine Ford put in its trucks from the 1970s through about 2000 was crap. It had no guts and was considered an "explode-a-matic" as was the weak auto transmission it was attached to.
The 4R100 isn't so great, the ZF-5 S47 was an incredible transmission behind a 351w, that drive train is practically unkillable, just enough power to get it done, not enough to hurt it's self.
The angus “pressuring the tire” bit went over my head for a couple seconds, but once it clicked, I howled!!😂
I love those OBS Ford's
I'd check the alternator and make sure the rectifiers are good, they went bad on my super duty and caused issues with the 4r100 shifting just like yours. The 4r100 is just a upgraded e40d. Eventually it took out my headlights and taillights and idle air control valve, replaced those and the alternator and no more issues
I'm glad you guys figured out the high idle issue I was going to suggest the little sensor by the heater box that has the hard plastic vacuum line to it and a connector with three wires. Not sure what it's called but it solved the high idle in my bronco ii, and f250. And a friends e350. I just pull them from the wrecking yard when I find them 😅
Watching y’all tap that tie rod with a little finishing hammer I was literally said “y’all need a bigger hammer” and then it proceeded to Kevin smacking it with a maul. Mission accomplished boys.
The ford dealership isnt lying. I worked for a ford dealer in colorado and did infact fix vehicles and do oil changes in the parking lot if bays were filled. Actually preferred it as the inside of the shop was like a stupid high school with the way even the senior mechanic acted.
Having worked at a Toyota dealership myself, I can confirm 😂
Heck yes more road trips videos!
Also you can check the notorious shift spring issue it likes to start backing off and causes shifting issues!!!! had a 1991 f250 custom e4od auto trans with that problem
I noticed when the truck first starts it has a hard knock that instantly goes away. I had a AMC HORNET that did the same thing. Turned out to be the torque converter. Mite play in with the odd shifting.put it on the lift and see if the knock is in the bell housing erea.
*Best way to spend the “after work” hours. Yinz are a blessing!* ❤️
You have GOT to be from Pittsburgh PA!!!
Harrison Ford? Omg that’s perfect 😂 I’m sure they have plenty of jokes.
Seems To Me I've Heard Mention Of That Dealership Name In A Movie Or TV Show Before. Something Like "His Dad Owns Harrison Ford! The Dealership Not The Actor" Can't Remember Where Though.
but do they have a weekly "wookie" special?
@@arnoldnellis6120 she's all that is the movie lol
@@projectS10ls of course! Now I remember. Knew I’d heard that joke before.
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I'm happy to see JD working on one of my favorite generations of F-Series.
im not done with the video yet but i can tell you on my 92 obs ford with a 302 that it doesnt like to idle down cold which when i installed a thermostat that was way to cold because it was cheaper on rockauto the truck would never idle down correctly. not sure if maybe there is an incorrect thermostat, stuck open thermostat, or just no thermostat in your truck but its worth a look
Others have commented that the problem may be bad capacitors in the ECM. It may or may not be the cause. But they are notorious for leaking and the acid can eat away the pcb and traces making the unit unrepairable. Would be worth the time to open it up just to check for any bulging or leaking caps.
Angus, waterboarding tire: I wont ask again nicely
Tire: Slowly leaking air
Angus: *slowly pries tire from rim* TALK
I would most likely start with the solenoid block. When manually shifted, the transmission works correctly, the valve are no longer controlled by the solenoid. If all gears work correctly when shifted manually, solenoid block is the starting point. Dennis, Certified Transmission Santee.
Yeah, had this issue with a '99 Explorer with the 5R-55E. Would slip like crazy if you went from neutral to drive and then took off. If you manually shifted from 1st on up to drive, it would shift normally, then, once you did that, you could leave it in drive and it'd work normally. The kicker was that, for a while, we had it working perfectly after having a transmission shop change the fluid. Then, about a year later, someone took the truck to Jiffy Lube. Their infamous Power Flush was done. Transmission went back to acting up.
He's never gonna let that olds diesel go.
About the transmission, check your signal from the speed sensor, sometimes they corrode and don't send the signal right to the computer, also check trans fluid, sometimes is just like that, about the engine, check the pcv valves, they sometimes broke of and make a huge leak, I got an old 90' F-350 with the same transmission but with a 460 engine, took me a while figure the vacuum leaks out, the transmission is slacky by itself, but once working decent, is pretty dang good,
Another thing you can do is run a KOER and KOEO test, maybe you can find what's wrong there, maybe you got a bad signal to the trans harness connector of the solenoid pack, if you can't get anything on there, check the harness itself, maybe you got some wires melted up and shorting out, it happened to me once because of the exhaust too close to the harness, if that's good too, your ecm is junk
Did you check the shift cable bracket under/behind the dash. The bracket bolts can become loose and cause erratic shifting. Happened on my 97.
"Shifts weird" could describe a perfectly working E4OD.
Ain’t that the truth. I have a ZF5-S47 in one 1996 7.3, and a low mile E40D in another. The e40d has no idea how to live it’s life.
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Watch the guy who wanted this truck originally, actually see this video and wants the truck now 🤣🤣
He will need a shitload more cash.
Glad I'm not the only one filming their shit in the "backyard" lmao
OEM non-greaseable ball joints are usually a better option than greaseable joints. The non-greaseable OEM ones typically have a teflon bushing that completely prevents any metal to metal contact that the greaseable joints don’t have and they typically last far longer.
Im 16 years old and i worked my but off to get the truck I have which is a 86 S10 you really inspire me to keep working on my truck I may not have the money to fix it right now but soon I know I will be able to thanks for the inspiration and keeping me in doing this and maybe one day I'll be able to do something like you whenever I get my truck fixed to be an accomplishment for me
Theyll get to that highway after the next 50 years of working on I-29 going through Sioux City lol
It's not a '97. The 97's were only diesel in that body style, you probably have a late 96. For the transmission: the capacitors are probably bad in the PCM causing irregular signals to the entire truck. Capacitors only have about a 10-15 year life under normal conditions before they start failing. With $5 in capacitors and a soldering iron you can fix it
No I have a ‘97 that has a 351w
I'm 1897 ford didn't make trucks
All 1997 f250 and f350 were that obs body regardless of engine type -not just diesels !!
250s, f super dutys & 350s in 97 were in this body style. Just not 150s
(37:01) "Narrowly missed the tractor beam" lmao
I had the same problem with the transmission! Mine would always show up when the dash wouldn't show the digital. The fix was literally the fuse that the dash lights are on. Please let it be that simple for you guys