How Fragrances Are Made - From Start To Finish (If You Aren't A Perfumer)
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- Опубліковано 30 лис 2024
- Hey friends, today I'm going over how a fragrance is created from the brief to submissions to the market per viewer request. As always thanks for watching!
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Thanks, this was very interesting, I like this type of content, It goes in a different direction of the regular "top ..."
regarding Pierre Bourdon. His concept of Davidoff cool water was already accepted by Creed and turned into Green Irish Tweed. But apparently they didn’t want him to claim credit for it. So he went on to make Cool water. Another creation of his is Silver Mountain Water. This was a rejected submission to one of Issey Miyake’s briefs which Creed again scooped up. He also made Mellisime Imperial, EROLFA. Funny thing is, Olivier Creed never paid him for his creations. He just walked into Pierre’s office in Paris, and scooped what ever rejected submissions he had in return for a tailored suits (that’s what Creed really is. It’s a bespoke tailor shop, not fragrance makers. Olivier Creed had an excellent nose, that appreciated Pierre’s work when designer houses rejected it. But he’s not a perfumer. He took Pierre’s work for free virtually. Made up a story about how he was inspired to make the fragrance. And sold it as his creation. Pierre, in addition to a tailored suit for every perfume, was promised a generous retirement payment from Creed, which he never got. Green Irish was marketed as inspired by a walk in the Irish country side, which it wasn’t. Silver mountain water as inspired by a trip in the Alps which it wasn’t. Himalaya was inspired when Olivier climbed the summit, which he didn’t, EROLFA as inspired by a Creed family sailing trip in the Mediterranean which isn’t true, Mellisime Imperial as a bespoke fragrance for king Faisal of Saudi, which isn’t true. In fact, many celebrities and royalties wrote complaints to the house of Creed, asking them to stop using their names falsely for marketing their fragrances under the threat of legal action.
Is this from Ghost Perfumer?
@@TheDryDown yes it is.
Frank Sinatra never told Creed to stop using his name for Bois de Portugal. Was that a lie? Considering the cost of a bespoke suit from creed, and the fact there was no litigation between Piere Bourdan nor the Creeds tells me you're embellishing your story, somewhat, for what purpose, I have no idea.... There was compensation to Bourdan, but for tax (IRS purposes), a $25k bespoke suit works out just fine...
@@edgeg400 This’s not the place for me to write a proper reply to you. If in fact you’re wondering, I would suggest reading ‘the ghost perfumer’. Matter of fact is Creed’s entire image was built on lies. If Sinatra didn’t complain, doesn’t mean their lies become true. That their fragrances are bespoke fragrances made for royalty decades or centuries before they were released to the public is utter BS. And that’s a fact, not an opinion.
This episode came across as being authentic and powerful, while very informative! The best in a long time. No role playing and no joke telling, just Ash as we knew him in the beginning. Long may this original approach continue! Thank you Ash.
I appreciate the jokes though, that's a part of his personality and he's got a great sense of humor. He should be himself fully, not what certain people want him to be IMO.
Edit: But certainly for this type of informative video, it's more natural to keep it plain and straight to the point.
That’s so tough. Perfumers are so similar to musicians. Some scents they create discontinue because they went unnoticed for so long. Just too amazing for their time. And once people realize what they’re missing, it’s gone 😢 RIP V&A M.I.P.
I worked for a multinational Spanish company of perfumes (you should know which one I’m referring to) and yes, your presentaton depicts pretty much how new fragrances are developed. In this particular company for instance, the same brief is delivered to 2-3 different fragrance suppliers to have them coming up with their best single submission (which previously had to be consumer tested against the benchmark). Once the submissions from fragrance houses are received, they are consumer tested in different markets (countries) to select the final winner.
Consumer testing and expert panel evaluations are critical to ensure viability of the new fragrance and guaranty big marketing budget behind new releases.
Does the name of the company start with a 'P'?
...and end with a G? 🤔
@@mattsmith1440 That's what I was thinking too...
And has an 'U' and 'I' in the middle?
@@YouAreTheRaidBoss Yes, Pug.
I always thought it would be cool to see the a start to finish of making a fragrance.
i once saw a documentary of what smells are more attractive to men and women and on top even beating top perfumes was none other than the smell of pumpkin pie, it would be cool if youtubers start talking about stuff like this
Probably depends on your cultural background. Pumpkin pie is not so familiar to me, although I do know the smell now, as an adult.
Here licorice is one of the best smells, since it reminds people of their childhood.
I thought it was a video of the process of how fragrances are actually made 🤦♂️
we want to know the physical part you know the right alcohol and where to find the essential oils and the other preservatives they put in it, not the logistics.
Hey Ash! I loved this video. I always wondered about the process of how a fragrance gets made. It was very informative and I can't wait to see the video of when you're actually on the factory floor showing us the whole process.
Great info video and I enjoyed it and have a blessed day
Do a video of the body sprays like Chanel,Dior,Valentino etc I would love to know the comparisons
love this kind of video. these educational videos are awesome.
This is a so stunning video!
Thank you so much for making such content. Most of UA-cam fragrance videos are all about top 10 fragrances for [put anything here] and THIS video goes beyond such trend and makes it own way.
I appreciated your video where you were explaining fragrance terminology and I am so happy to watch this one.
Thanks a lot! Hope you will continue making nonconformist videos in future. Your channel creates a fragrance community where we all can discuss topics you have raised in the videos. The feeling of realizing that is so inspiring and uplifting.
P.S.
Hello from Moscow. Fragrance community, as well as science and sport, is apolitical.
Love you from Bangladesh Dhaka 🇧🇩😄👍
The video I've been waiting for!!
Ash I'm loving the content, but like other I beg you make a vlogging channel or a couple videos, showing your home or something along those lines. 1 or 2 videos that are different. Hope my opinion reaches you out ♥
You are a great seeming dude and this video is excellent and informative!
Really interesting, and well explained. Thanks Ash!
I was expecting the scientific side. Do this next time. 🙂 How to put top notes on top, maceration times and relevance of it... this kind of stuff. Thanks.
Interesting stuff. Thanks Ash. 🙏🏻
Please review DUA Frag ash..thank u 🙏🏻
Appreciate the info Ash!
I adore you! That is all ! ❤. Great vid and channel :) JP
Looking forward to a Guerlain Habit Rouge l'instinct review 🙏🏻
Great video Ash looking forward to seeing the production side like you mentioned. I am also super curious about the supply-side the raw materials required to make our beloved scents
i wear florida water + cool water + nautica voyage + light blue intense combined, all together.
Wait... Columbus, OH? Where is this at? Mott Global?
Wow fascinating ancedote, so Pierre made Green Irish Tweed with Olivier Creed and then went and basically made his own version of the same fragrance and still wasn't getting recognition, madness.Cheers Ash
I'm trying to find "Linitz" -Paris for Men
not Aqua Linitz...but Linitz
Jeremy fragrance said that the cost of a 100ml fragrance is 7$ !!!
Where? id like to watch that video
@@Tsobe ua-cam.com/users/shorts65T6gpruKJg?feature=share
I call him, “stinky Jeremy”.
There is a docu-series on net flex talking about products that are dangerous and one of the videos is all about fragrance. They say that anything that has fragrance in it is super harmful to humans that it messes with hormones and a bunch of really scary stuff. I’m not gonna look it up to give all the accurate details here, but after I watched it I was scared to wear any more fragrances… until the next morning when I was getting ready for work and I looked all my expensive fragrances and picked my favorite one to wear for the day.
I would love to find out that the series was misleading or wrong though.
Please tell me I’m not spending my money on great smelling poisons.
A lot of people who are against all chemicals say so but have no proof is what I'm seeing in brief research. At best, it is disingenuous for anyone to say they know. I tend to doubt it.
flowers have fragrance...so does freshly cut grass, gasoline, car exhaust, eucalyptus trees, cedar wood, etc...why would they be “harmful” to humans?
Lavender is great to smell before bedtime, since it’s really relaxing.
I think Net Flex is a bunch of propaganda. 😂👍🏼
Can't wait for that headquarters tour video!
Hey Ash!
Thanks again for this excellent video! I really enjoyed the "behind the scenes" look!
I can't find the community tab... But I'd really enjoy a video from you:
"How Fragrances Are Made - From Start To Finish (If You ARE a Perfumer)"!
Hey Ash , great video and have a wonderful weekend peace ✌️ 🇬🇧
Very informative thanks for the insight
Cool video mate.
Please review more niche stuff.
Really like your presence, but unfortunately I’m lean towards niche more than designers.
Regards
Hi Ash,
When you referenced cost per kilogram, what does an average EDT/EDP/Extrait cost?
For 1 litre, or roughly a kg of a finished product, production cost is typically $50-$80. This is in the world of majority upper-end designers and niche. For some indie houses making extraits using mostly (or exclusively) insanely expensive, high quality naturals (think Slumberhouse, Pineward, Bortnikoff, Gather, etc...), that number is likely WELL over $100.
@@awkwardme5375 what is the minimum amount you can order?
@@finderkeeper836 Of a finished perfume? Depends? Many indie houses, as well as sites like Luckyscent and ScentSplit sell decanted samples down to like 0.5ml. If you're asking about raw materials, then there are perfumery material vendors/sites which sell raw materials in amounts as low as 4ml, which can be anywhere from like $5 for something like dilute ambroxan to $80 for an oud blend. Anything in between from white musks and castoreum to Jasmine sambac and tobacco leaf absolute is available from those site - supplied from the main companies that Ash mentioned in the video.
Please review Borouj Lamasat Oud. I know you loved Perlador as a clone of Carlisle. This is supposed to be a take on Carved Oud and Oud Wood. I’d love to hear what you have to say.
can you review hos mickey and minnie/100 plz?
That was cool. Thank you.
Great video!
I was thinking that this is how this might come about ,.? The bigger houses by the Completed fragrance that they liked most to place under their name for their newest release type gig , I got Eau Electric YSL I thought it was the blue electric
The gems of knowledge that he dropped.
Oil it should be calculated in liters not kilograms
This turned out to be more corporate than I was hoping for :/ ESPECIALLY having a middle man between perfumer and house (if not in-house perfumer) not suprised tho.
Great video.
Speaking of davidoff. I want to pick up a bottle of "coolwater parfum", but no big store carries it, except fragrance net?( which I recently discovered) Why is it so hard to find? I thought it was a newer fragrance? Usually everyone would carry it when it first comes out. I don't get it. Just sayin. Thanks for sharing the video.
The Macy's in St. Louis has it. What they don't have, however, is Cool Water Intense, which they say is the best one. So perhaps try a couple more Macy's?
@@SuperFlawless9 thanks, I will.
You’re better off not buying from a big retailer anyway. Why pay full price if you don’t have to?
We need another video about trash fragrances. I've watched the Cruise eau Fraiche review a few times lol
Could it be said that if a house discontinued a fragrance ( say 1 million prive ) , could another house pick it up from a perfumer?
No, the house already paid the perfumer for the formulation, the house owns it.
Awesome video
Awesome 🏆
I want to make my own fragrance in the supplier’s
“A Day in the Life of a Fragarance Perfumer” in tribute to the awesome Paolo from Tokyo channel.
Great🔥🔥🔥
Can you review Tyler, The Creator “french waltz”?
Great 👍🏻
Mr gent scents i found a recent brand from UAE called pandora and got a perfume from called pandora saviour.
Imagine someone spending that much time and money working with a perfumer just to come out with One Million Parfum/ Elixir 🥴🥴
Why are there so many cuts ✂️ sorta annoying
ash, how far your place to los angeles? could you, one day, invite Mazham Raza (Dua Brand CEO). just asking :)
Hey!
Sponsored by: Alberto Morillas
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Awesome video