Which adjuster screw setting do you use and have you tried different settings? I go with ½ turn out and that gives me good clutch modulation with enough friction zone -- I like the clutch engagement to begin sooner rather than later. What do you prefer?
Back again after my one quarter turn. I found little to no difference and will return it to the factory setting of half turn. I would not like to try any lesser setting than the one quarter turn I performed due to the expansion of metal components and its effects.
I’ve looked at dozens of videos looking for this information. Everyone will tell you how to do the adjustment but no one explains why the 1/2 or full turn or what that does exactly. Thank you!
Finally, a real 'how to' with a bonus of 'here's the results' description. My pers preference, have it engage almost immediately. SMALL friction zone for me.
Hey Wade - thanks for the feedback! Yeah me too - 1/2 turn all the time. If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Wade - sorry for the delay in responding - for some reason this comment didn’t show up. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for sharing your setup! Chhh
Just to let you know. Between you and John Maxwell I have successfully adjusted my 2019 Softail Slim so I can actually find neutral EASY. I went with your suggestion of one full turn and it works like a champ. John suggested 3/4. Thanks for putting in the effort to make videos that truly are helpful. P.S. I have been riding since I was 15 (in Cali you could get a permit at 15) and I’m 62 now.
Hey Jack! Thanks so much for the kind words. I'm so glad you were able to get the clutch adjusted and dialed in. 47 years of riding - love it! Keep enjoying the ride, my friend.
neutral is all way down to first, then a slight nudge back upward, just very slight n you should find it easily about every time once you practice that way, I hate when I find neutral while shifting to easy to second gear once in a while lol
I'm a decent mechanic. Your vids make me a better mechanic. I love working on my own bike. You save me Huge money not having to go to Harley. Cheers 🇨🇦👍🍻
Hey Len - thanks so much for the kind words! I'm so glad the info is helpful :) And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
A friend of mine recently had leather wraps braided onto her bike’s levers and grips. The friction zone was already short and needed adjustment at the basket prior to this addition. This video was essential to adjusting the clutch to allow for the covers and still fully disengage. I surely appreciate your time and effort in making this video. Keep up the great work!
Just wanted to chime in and say I've done my clutch adjustment (2022 FXLRS, only 88 miles in ) after watching this video, and it already feels 100x better thanks to the 1/2 turn alteration of the friction zone. Thanks Ron
Hey Daryl - thanks for letting me know! I’m so glad this was helpful. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Very smart video and EXTREMELY well communicated!!! Once I receive my reduced clutch lever I'll get to work making the adjustment at the hub. I'm going to start with the half turn. Will update once completed the work. Best.
Absolute best video for me on clutch adjustment at the basket. To the point. Excellent explanation on whats happening and which way to turn the Allen screw to get the engagement you want.
Just worked on my clutch on my 23 Road Glide Limited. Working on the free play adjuster cover around the lower is tight, but doable. For some reason, the cover tube is ever so slightly a smaller inner diameter than the outer diameter of the tensioning spring. Sliding that cover off and on is the hardest part of the job! lol. Thanks for the video man. I’ve always had hydraulic clutched bikes and have never had to adjust any part of the clutch (just fluid changes), so this was new to me. I previously adjusted the free play on the clutch cable because it was too loose for my liking after about 2k miles. After adjusting the cable, my friction zone had moved to dang near the end of the lever throw and then I began the search for the solution, which you’ve provided in clear and understandable detail here. You’re awesome sir! Thanks for the great video!
1/2 turn out--shorter friction zone is where I like mine. The shorter friction zone gives me much better control at lower speeds and making tight turns. Thanks for yet another excellent video!
Thanx man for an excellent vid! Just did the same work on my 2020 Lowrider S, then I found your video :) Keep up the good work! First time I´ve tried shorter levers, Like ém a lot!
Hey Ephram - that’s great! Thanks for the kind words. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Super! I just got my bike back from the dealer for its 1,000 mile service and the clutch friction zone starts "way out there" now. I had it adjusted at 1/2 turn when I first bought it. Your ruler/clutch lever demo explains why! I suspected that but seeing is believing. New sub here!
Hey AwosAtis - thanks for the kind words! I’m glad it was helpful. And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
After a day of struggling found your video and finally was able to figure out how to adjust my clutch. Looking forward to riding it tomorrow and seeing if it’s easier to find neutral . Thank you
Hey JoseM - I’m so glad this was helpful, and Thank you for the kind words! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Thought I'd share this, found it another site. Probaly the best write up I've read when it comes to #clutch adjustment. The manual says 1/2 - 1 turn at the clutch pak, some techs say 1/4 turn. Alot of folks have often asked whats the difference between that 1/2 turn opposed to a full turn. This should shed light on the adjustments. At the clutch pack: The adjustment of the nut in the clutch pack alters where the friction zone ends up on the lever on the bars, i.e., clutch lever engages close to the hand grip or almost all the way released from the hand grip. The clutch adjuster screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement. If you turn the clutch adjuster screw clockwise, you adjust toward slippage, if you turn it counterclockwise, you increase the slack before disengagement (drag). If the adjustment screw is turned too far clockwise, the clutch will be disengaged or slip no matter what position the cable is in. If the adjustment screw is too far counterclockwise, the clutch will drag because you cannot, regardless of how much slack you remove at the lever, disengage it enough to remove the contact. The service manual recommends 1/2 to 1 counter clockwise turn after turning the adjuster screw clockwise to lightly seat the screw. Following the the procedures in the service manual, with 1/2 turn counter clockwise the clutch will engage further from handgrip as you release the lever. Turning adjusting screw 1 turn, you will feel the clutch engages closer to the handgrip as you release the lever.
Hey Mike - sorry about the delay in responding. UA-cam held the comment for review and I just discovered it. Thanks for sharing that - it seems like that is the opposite of what I've experienced? In terms of the effects of 1/2 turn out vs. 1 full turn out...
@@RonsWorkshopI actually just commented on the comments section. Everything online from years of different forum posts about clutch screw adjustments say the exact opposite of this video which has me confused as well. I wonder if the M8 design is different or if these forum posts are wrong?
@Jazzlikestickhands I saw that comment as well. I wouldn’t think the design changed - I wasn’t sure about the effects either so I set up that crazy rig to try to measure the difference between the settings.
I tend to agree with your information. I just installed a new cable and have tried the half turn and full turn. I found clutch engagement occurred earlier with the full turn. My old cable used to engage the clutch with about three eights of an inch between the grip and lever (great for burn outs 😊). However, with the new cable installed, the lever gap is much wider now before engagement 🤷🏼♂️. I’ll adjust the clutch about one and one eight to see what happens🤞🏼, then report back here.
thank you so much for this video. Clarified some confusion i had as a am getting ready to adjust my clutch. i will subscribe.great in depth video. one of the best ive seen
Thanks for the video reference of the difference in adjustment range best explanation video Ive seen. Makes it easier for us newer riders just getting in to wrenching.
Awesome, awesome, video! Saved me a bunch of bullsh$t!! I was absolutely stuck trying to get my clutch figured out on my new FXLRS. I was about to get desperate! Thanks so much for posting this!!! Btw, I’m running a 1finger clutch on my low rider S. Same one I ran on the iron 883 before it. It fits both bikes. Good thing too because it cost enough. Makes that clutch pull so much lighter. Awesome clutch. 1finger. I won’t be without it on a Harley.
Hey Robby - thanks for the kind words and I’m so glad it was helpful! And yes, the 1fngr levers are nice. They didn’t work out for me but I liked many of the features. I ended up with Lucky Speed Shop shorties until I made my own. If want to see the shorty lever saga you can check out this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLH2H949XFljmF6-31PFqB4vqsUanEQSXZ.html And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Perfect video! Answered my question completely! I prefer the clutch to engage sooner, especially when doing slow maneuver riding. Just seems like I have more to play with there instead of almost letting the clutch all the way out before engaging. Will it hurt the clutch if I only use a quarter turn on the setting to shorten the throw even more. I'm a newbie, so just learning these components and the bike. Thanks for your time and knowledge!!
Hey Big88Country - thanks for the kind words! I’d stick with the published ranges to be on the safe side. Of course you could experiment, but I wouldn’t want to risk things starting to malfunction and possibly leave me stranded somewhere.
Yay ! At last a video that shows the difference between the two (1/2 vs 1 full turn) settings ! When I took my ride to H-D shop for the 5000mile service, the mech reset it at 1 full turn... I ended up surprised when calling for power as I released the clutch, for there wasn't any where I expected it. Almost dropped the bike as I was starting to lean in a turn 😱. I now know how to set it to where I like it ! Thank you so much !
Hey Jef - I’m so glad this was helpful! Yeah, that first clutch release after an unexpected adjustment could be dicey! If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hi Ron....thing I like about your videos is the way you explain each step that we can understand in laymens terms. Ok... changing to an adjustable clutch lever on my 21 Tri Glide the friction zone seems a bit different than stock lever. So the further I adjust the new lever closer to the bar seems to really shorten up that zone to the point that neutral is little harder to hit. If the first hub adjustment you do is not where you want it and can you do a second adjustment without releasing the spring tension in yellow housing ? Just want to make sure. Thanks for your very informative videos....
Thanks for the kind words! I’d release and reset the red clip/spring at the yellow adjuster with every clutch hub adjustment. That way you know you’ve got the same baseline every time.
Hey Chris - thanks for the feedback! Those are Lucky Speed Shop levers. I did a three-video series about them, and I’ll leave a link below. I’ve also done my own shorty levers with a unique coating, and the first video for those will be out soon. ua-cam.com/video/FWbsgFrtX4s/v-deo.html If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
hi Ron I'm thankful that I watched this Video again! Clutch engagement is something that you can get used to, But I see things a bit differently. As per this Vid a full turn out results in a later engagement, so I think it would follow that disengagement would start sooner. I'm just trying to alleviate the clunking shifting up and down. thanks to this Vid I ordered a set of Slim line front LED indicators that I saw on your test Bike. Do you like them? Best of Everything Ron, Brian
Thank you for the video!! It is confusing because they say if you do slow speed menuvering a lot you should be at a full turn or close to. So why would you want it engaging later for slow speed riding? I like it sooner, and have always liked about 3/4 turn. Works well for normal riding and slow speed riding. I do a lot of slow speed riding to try and avoid putting my legs down as much. Especially approaching redlights. I always favored the 3/4 turn. In fact had to adjust a couple times after getting my bike back from the shop today. I'm wondering if the new clutch basket effects the adjustment a little as it seems to be a bit finicky now. Maybe the new basket needs to break in. Is that possible?
Maybe the later engaging for slow speed riding helps so you just have more range to work with, more margin, so nothing happens too quickly. Maybe? And I’m not sure on the new clutch but it would not surprise me if it needs to wear in a little.
I just purchased my 5th Harley. It’s a 2021 Street Glide Special. OMG it’s the largest clutch engagement ever. I need this fixed asap. It engages where my grip strength is the weakest. Not a safe zone.
Your video is outstanding! The service manual does not cover this in depth like you do however.... Looking for some help: Just adjusted the clutch on my 2024 road glide. It seems like the clutch is now engaging way too late. I have adjusted the clutch under the derby cover following the service manual and backed it out a 1/2 turn from seating. I have adjusted the clutch Ferrell and it had 1/8 inch space Under full throttle the clutch does not slip. The shifting is smoother. The only issue is that thay clutch engages too late for my liking. How can I make the clutch engagement sooner?
My friction zone is horrible just about fully released when I start getting power to the wheels really hard to use the friction zone for slow speed manufacturing with it. Time to adjust it. I like engagement with around 3/4inch of lever release so I can slip a finger in if I need to keep from fully removing power. Thanks for the tech tip
I too have suspected the trans. The speedometer does not work and a new sensor also failed. My plan is to diagnose the problem in service ! [ride it till whatever the problem is fails! LOL HA ] Thanks for the counsel !! If I am able I will update you when the in service diagnostic is complete and the problem is resolved.
Follow up on my 97fxd clutch repair. I ran unit 500 miles and re-adjusted.[adjusting screw 1 turn out]. I used worn but serviceable clutch steel & friction plates to eliminate the center steel spring plate. I changed the oil after the 500 miles. I beleave the initial gear clash was the mix up of parts. I should have kept all disks in order when dissembling. Plus the addition of 1 steel and 2 foreign friction plates all had to mate up[ie break in?]
Great Video! My clutch cable broke just below the circle at the lever a couple of weeks ago. I replaced it over the weekend and even if I go one full turn out it still wants to stay engaged? Should I go out 1 1/2 turns? Or is there something else I should look at?
Hey Troy - you can check it out here: ✨My Shorty Levers Were Too Long • I Made My Own 😀 DIY Shorty Levers • How To ua-cam.com/video/CdhHAy-xnAc/v-deo.html The project went well and it’s very easy to do. I snagged a set of levers from eBay to use for the mod. Let me know if you try it!
The friction zone is the zone where the clutch just begins to engage to where it is fully engaged. The more you back the aduster out the wider the zone will be .Less than a half turn you run the risk of the clutch not fully disengaging, more than a full turn you risk the clutch not full engaging , a half to 3/4 out is about as far a normal rider needs.
Hey Ron I got 2019 street bob 107. I’m getting trans fluid drip at lower adjustment on front left of frame. Is there a seal or o-ring that needs replacing? Thank for the help and love the videos bud…
I don’t think there’s a seal that would allow it to drip there. Could it be coming from somewhere else? Forward controls or mid controls? And thanks for the kind words :)
Hi Ron, thanks for the great video. I have tried this adjustment on my 2018 Softail slim and set the basket adjustment at 3/4 turn out. A couple of questions if I may. Does this adjustment affect the total amount of clutch disengagement? When pushing the bike without motor running should the effort be the same with the bike in gear with clutch pulled in as it is with bike in neutral?
Glad this was helpful! I’m not sure about total disengagement as it relates to the adjuster screw setting. For resistance when pushing, I’d expect them to feel different. Even comparing them when cold vs. hot will feel different as well.
I have a 2000 H D Fatboy , Ever since my clutch upgrade with the Extra clutch Plate my release point is too far away from Hand Grip. At a half turn out it still is too far away. Can I try Less like a 1/4 turn out ? I want my release point Closer to hand grip. Your Video Is Great! Exactly what I'm Looking For.
Hey John - thanks for the kind words! I wouldn’t recommend going outside of the range in the manual - it could have unintended consequences. Maybe the range is different with the extra clutch plate? I don’t have any experience with that mod so I just can’t say. Let me know if you learn anything or get the results your looking for!
Great video! My dyna has an easy pull clutch. When I loosen the clutch cable, the car is not easy to shift into gear, and the car is easy to move forward in first gear; but when I tighten the clutch cable, turning the accelerator hard will cause the clutch to slip and lose speed. Is it possible to adjust according to the method mentioned in your video? Tighten the screw a full turn? Thank you, brother!
Hey HUFdes - it’s probably worth doing this adjustment but make sure you confirm the setting for your bike. I’m guessing it will be the same but I’m not sure. You should also check the clutch cable free play and set it as well. If you get both of those set, if you still have problems it may be a clutch problem or time for a new clutch if it’s got high milage or hard miles.
Should this all be done while in first gear or neutral? I also heard through some videos, that you need to pull the clutch lever 3 times after tightening the nut in the derby cover. Is that right?
Did the adjustment on the hub as shown on my 2004 with factory clutch. Then ajusted the cable for 1/8 free play. Bike was cool. Went to ride the bike and there was zero engagement whatsoever, got stuck in my driveway....So i had taken note of the existing adjustment ccondition as I went at this which is the way the bike existed for the last 20k miles or so--there was 8 turns of spacing at the cable adjuster, and the allen bolt on the hub was 3.5 turms out from "lightly seated". So after not being able to engage at all, I stsrted experimenting and if you turn in my Allen screw until it lightly seats, you can go another 3 full turns in before it gets to another level i would describe as "hard to turn". So that left me wondering what the manual means by "lightly seated"? Anyhow I am now sitting at 1 turn out from this hard/firmly seated condition at the hub, and to set the cable and lever free play i ended up with being 6 turns out on the cable adjuster. I can ride my bike again and it feels like it did before i touched the stupid clutch in the first place. Question is, am i looking at a worn out clutch? My adjustment screw is essentially now 2 turns IN versus 1/2 to 1 turn out.....how is that even possible? Im getting ready for a 3 week trip with firm reservations and no more time for bike maintenance, and its very frustrating wondering if ill need a new clutch whole im on the road.
Hey wyomatt - I’m really not sure. I’d probably feel the same way, but I don’t have any similar experience so I just can’t assess your situation. Let me know what you learn and/or end up doing.
Hi Ron, I thought you were following the service manual procedure, I see you added a step although I can't see that as a issue. The step I am talking about is once the jam nut is loose you back the adjustment screw off about a turn or two before turning in CW until lightly seated. SM doesn't mention this , it goes from loosening jam nut to turning in adjustment screw until lightly seated. I think that step you added may be better to insure the adjustment screw is lightly seated
Hey DylanDream - you're exactly right. I wanted to make sure there was no chance that the adjuster was already tighter than it should be. Backing it out establishes a good starting point to work from.
@@RonsWorkshop once I adjust the clutch and I still have my Allen key in there if I wiggle my Allen key, there's some movement with the little round plate behind the adjustment screw. Is this acceptable?
@@dylandream2248 I believe so - I can't recall if I saw the same movement when I did mine, but based on what I know about the mechanism (release plate) that seems ok. You can see the release plate in my recent chain kit video - here's the part of the video where I remove it: ua-cam.com/video/HMKcblpChcA/v-deo.html
First, thank you for your help and reply ! The bike had sat in a cool garage for 24 hours between adjustment attempts. [ saying 1" was my error I meant 1 full turn from bottom of adjustment] I took the clutch apart because of hard shift and inability to easily find neutral. I replaced the spring center steel spacer with regular clutch fiber and steel plates. The 30,000 mile fiber plates were not burned and looked very good. They were 3 to 4 thousands worn. I did not think worn out. After this rework of the clutch there was more pressure on the clutch plates by the harder pull of the clutch. The clutch works but not as well as my 2011 FL. It is improved, perhaps this is all I can expect?? Thank you !
Man, I just don’t know. Maybe there’s an issue with the transmission? Just throwing out ideas but there aren’t many variables with the clutch and it seems like you got them covered.
Speaking from my experience, I found it difficult to find neutral when stopping. Turns out that the cable was routed with a tight bend in it - not too tight to look visually unacceptable. I routed it as straight as possible and I can now get neutral easily.
Great information! Thank you! So apparently I need to replace my clutch cable,, I tried both 1/2” & 1” back out and my clutch cable still doesn’t change, I can’t get my cable loose enough or tightened enough to even operate, which stinks badly. After I adjusted the set screw behind primary & adjust set screw on the cable the clutch still doesn’t move and the lever won’t give resistance once tightened nor will the lever won’t stay in the lever housing if I loosen it a little bit, so either way I’m screwed, no fun intended. Thank you again for doing and sharing!
Hey Babybugspaw70 - thanks for the kind words! Let me know how it goes if you replace the cable. Will the cable move inside the housing or is it seized up?
@@RonsWorkshop The cable in the lever housing will move with no problem,, too much actually, so if I loosen the long adjust screw “nut” on the cable, it’s so loose that the lever is free & then when tightening as when the lever is moving outward the adjustment long nut disconnects & I have about 1” showing outside the lever housing instead of 1/16-1/8”, so either way there’s way to much slack in the cable which is making me believe that the cable is either broken or stretched or came loose inside the clutch housing on the other lower side of the bike(where the clutch cable goes into the transmission cover) if I’m describing that correctly.?. Frustrating as all get out,,
Hmmm. If it’s broken you should be able to tell by moving the top end and seeing if it moves down at the bottom. It does sound like something is amiss. The cable slack issue is separate from the clutch adjustment, so your suspicions may be correct.
@@RonsWorkshop yes sir, the cable lever will not engage with the Clutch at all, the lever is so loose or too tight that either I can’t pull the lever at all once adjusted or when I barely loosen the cable adjustment a tiny bit, the cable jumps out of the lever housing (slack) so the lever doesn’t have enough pull to do anything. I will let you know the end result, Thanks again!
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron! Wanted to update you, it’s been several weeks or so but, yes, once I had the clutch cable replaced it solved all problems. I do have a question though, I’m like you, I like a very small friction zone, is it normal that after riding a little while and clutch heats up that my friction zones seems bigger after clutch heats up & after bike is cooled down that friction zone is smaller, BUT, after a week or 10 days it seems to get bigger friction zone even after the bike cools down. I feel like I have to keep adjusting the clutch cable to “keep” the friction zone smaller. Is that Normal? Or should I adjust it behind primary & clutch cable same time now that a new clutch cable has been replaced recently & then it should be tight friction zone longer time wise.?
I like the clutch to engage/disengage without too much pull on the lever - just an inch or so. So I'm guessing that the half turn on the adjuster screw is the way to go?
The lever/bar distance won’t necessarily transfer between bikes, but that’s probably a good starting point. It’s such a quick procedure that you can easily re-adjust if for fine tuning. Let me know what you end up with.
So, I adjusted the clutch basket by using the weight of the allen wrench to determine where it begins to seat. I then left the allen wrench in that position where it begins to seat, and pressed the clutch lever. When I did, the allen wrench move a little more. Or to put it another way, when I went to seat the clutch adjustment with the allen wrech, I positioned the wrench so it would fall from an upright position to a "seated" position. The fall was not that far, and I figured thats where the adjustment begins to seat. Then when i pulled the clutch lever in, the position of the allen wrench move more, which made it look like the seated positing changed. Yes, there is freeplay in the clutch lever.
Hey PJ _ D - if you maximize slack in the upper cable (compress the spring on the yellow adjuster and snap in the red clip), and then loosen the jam nut, and then back out the adjuster, and then squeeze the lever a few times (the clutch will barely even move). That should settle everything where it needs to be. From there you should be able to dial in the setting you want. Once the adjuster screw touches, lock it down without and further changes that could give it a new touch point. Let me know if that helps…
@@RonsWorkshop um...almost a month ago, I added length to the cable with an item from fatbaggers. During that process, I broke the adjuster. A new cable with adjuster has been on order so long, that I cancelled it today.
@@RonsWorkshop 37200439. Its the entire upper cable. I ordered one through my local dealer over a month ago. Today they said nothing coming my way until at least January. Then they mentioned something about a design change. So now I am looking for a complete cable...lever, all the way to clutch.
I HAVE A QUESTION: What kind of constant pressure, if any, is being applied to the clutch under normal driving conditions when you're not actually depressing the clutch lever? I'm wondering if there's some constant pressure happening at 1/2 a turn or a full turn adjustment? Will the clutch wear out faster in either one of the adjustment settings? It seems to me that at the 1/2 adjustment there's going to be a little extra pre-existing pressure in order to engage the friction zone earlier than compared to the 2 full turn adjustment? Maybe it's a non issue, but I prefer to engage the friction zone sooner because it's easier, but does this promote premature wear on the clutch plates?
I don’t know the specs, but I can’t see how any setting within the manual spec would allow premature wear. I suspect if it’s adjusted within range the clutch plates get full pressure, with just the throw being affected by the different settings.
I have a 2022 Road Glide Special is it the same adjustment. Also it's hard to get into neutral ,very annoying..Would the adjustment under the derby cover correct the neutral problem.. A lot of people are having the same problem with finding neutral. I called 2 Harley dealers here in New Jersey and they are completely useless. They insist on bringing it in.. as far as the plastic part with the red clip, does that actually get turned ,is there threads where it can moves up and down? Thank you in advance you have done the best explanation I have found on here. I definitely subscribed. Thank you again
Hey Chilll - I’d start with the free-play adjustment. The red clip just pops out and pops in and the spring on the yellow part keeps the lever under preload and takes up the slack for proper free-play. Let me know if that helps or if you need more info.
Yeah maybe try the adjustment down at the hub and see how that goes. If you set that, and then set the free-play, the only other normal variable is clutch wear.
I usually go between 1/ 2 and 1 full turn .Have you ever done the go for a ride come home keeping the bike up right idle for a little while shut the bike down jack it up and pull the crank sensor and measure the oil you get out of the crank case I got 8 ounces called the local dealer they said 5 to 8 ounces was normal I’m not I’m not sure that’s true what do you think?
Hey Ken - thanks for sharing that! Regarding the cranks sensor oil check - I haven’t done that yet BUT I plan too. I may incorporate that into the check I do on the intake bolts after a long ride. I check both of them. I may be wrong, but 8 oz. sounds a bit high. Double check Kevin Baxter’s info on sumping. He gives a number but I feel like it’s more like 2-4 ounces. He mentions it in a couple of his videos but I’m sure he mentioned it in the live Q&A on sumping from around March of this year.
Hard to say - there could be unforeseen issues if it’s outside the manual-cited range. BUT you could try it and see how it feels. I wouldn’t do any long trips without a decent number of increasing-duration rides…just to be on the safe side. Let me know how it goes!
I was not aware that you could replace just the top half of the cable, and I replaced the whole thing... due to the cable snapping. Watched this video hoping to see if there was any adjusting to do on the opposite end under the clutch cable cover... mainly because after installing the new cable the clutch lever is hard and the clutch doesn't seem to disengage. Would doing the adjustment shown in the video help?
Hey Ivan - in looking at the manual for 2018+ models it doesn't look there is any adjustment down at the lower end of the cable at the clutch release cover. It sounds like something is bound up. Did you install a one-piece cable, or another two-piece cable? What year bike is it?
Hey J Beckman - there will be just enough cable tension for it to actuate the clutch just a bit. It won't move much...just a bit. Let me know how it goes!
Hey Wolverine Chamberlin - not a dumb question at all! It has just enough take-up to allow it to move the clutch a bit. It seems totally unnecessary, but that’s the procedure the manual states.
Shouldn't having it turned out further make the clutch grab sooner and not the other way around? Everything I've read online about Harley clutch screw adjustments suggests 1/2 turn makes it grab further away from the handle bar and a full turn grabs closer to the grip. Did they change the clutch design on the M8 or is this video wrong?
I’m not sure if the design has changed, but I doubt it. i wasn’t sure either so I set up that crazy rig to try to measure the difference between the settings.
Hello Ron I have a hydraulic clutch and you can't adjust them my lever ( friction zone) is more then half way out I was recommended to flush my line plus I got hydraulic adjustable levers. And can you explain why Milwaukee 8 have slumping mine is doing it often.
Hey William - let me know if the flushing helps. I’ve only worked with the cable-operated clutch. For sumping - there’s a lot too that. Check out my recent video where I cover a lot of the basic info: ua-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/v-deo.html If you have a sumping problem it would be good to address it as soon as you can.
Adjustment at 1" is best for my 97 fxd with 30,000 miles. I have put an easy pull device on the clutch but that was 2,000 miles previous. At 1" I have minimal clash but neutral is difficult to find. Not impossible but not easy as my other Harley's?
Is there any adjustment in the lever? I wonder if that’s somehow a factor. Nothing else comes to mind in terms of adjustments. And you made the clutch adjustments with the bike at room temperature?
I'm a female rider and just watched your "friction zone" clutch adjustment video. I just got a 2021 FXBB and the clutch is really had for me to pull in. Will this technique help with that, or do you have another suggestion?
Hi Crystal - no, this won’t help with that. You can look into “easy pull” levers and/or adjustable levers. That should provide some options for you. Let me know what you end up with!
I don't think you are changing the width of the friction zone by changing that set screw. I think you are only taking up slack in the clutch mechanism itself, so you are shifting how much empty pull you have before actual clutch movement. So it's doing a similar thing to adjusting your cable slack, but the cable slack is adjusted independently: *so you can have a really slack clutch adjustment (friction zone occurs much closer to your grip) without your cable being excessively slack -or- if you consider that as wasted motion and want the clutch to move earlier in pulling the lever: *you can have almost all the slack taken up in the clutch, so the friction zone occurs very close to when your cable comes tight (further out from your grip) Combining that clutch adjustment with a lever with an adjustable angle and stop, you can have a near instant clutch response (very little wasted motion) at whatever angle you want - no more huge deadzone.
This seems like a dumb question but would having a shorter friction zone make it more difficult to find neutral? (For example, like a 1/4 turn makes it more touchy and hard to find vs a full turn make it super lax and easy to find.)
Not a dumb question - I didn’t notice any difference in finding neutral when I played with the different settings. It seems that as long as it’s set to the proper range, and therefore allows full clutch disengagement, shifting to neutral should be unaffected. That’s my theory anyway :)
Ron, I have 3 new stronger clutch springs that I want to install. Do I need to remove the entire primary cover to do so or is there a way of accessing the ability to do so just thru the derby cover?
Hey Palmetto LowLife - checking the manual, it looks like you can do it through the derby cover. If you can ping me in email or DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal @RonsWorkshop I can send you info from the manual (with diagrams). UA-cam strips out the email address from comments, but if you visit my “About” page on UA-cam and then click on “View Email Address” you can contact me that way. Note: You have to be logged into UA-cam to see the email address. Here’s a link to the page: ua-cam.com/users/RonsWorkshopabout
14' street glide.. 30k miles on the stock clutch.. it slips when you power shift in 4-6th gears or going wot.. can it be adjusted or time to replace it? It's got cams , exhaust and tume..100/111
Hey Jody - I’d say it’s worth trying to adjust it since it’s such an easy project. Double check the manual for the 14 though - I’m not sure if the range is the same. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop appreciate the info.Ive ordered one already.. won't hurt to see if it can be adjusted.. fixing to take a 2800 mile tour to the grand canyon in 3 weeks.. don't need any breakdowns. I ride the snot out of it, harder than I probably should. But.. its fun and it's what we do..lol☕👍
I get gear clash at 1/2 adjustment. It lessens as I increase the gap. I use chrome stock levers. Is my clutch worn out? The fiber disks are not showing wear [?] the steel are perfect.
Hey red tomcat - that’s puzzling. How many miles are on the clutch? I’m no expert, but I wouldn’t expect gear clash anywhere within the adjustment range.
Hey Jon - are you adjusting it with the bike fully cooled off at room temperature? And how many miles are on the clutch? And you’re starting by lightly tightening the Allen bolt until it just touches before backing it off?
I have a hard time adjusting my elite mototech levers with evolution clutch. Heard 1/4turn at the hub and like no freeplay at the lever works but man does tbat cable feel tight
Having problems getting the right adjustment after clutch and cable replacement. Will shift easily when the engine is off but no way when is running. Currently 1/2 turn. Should I go for 1 turn then? Fxdx 2000
Double check the clutch cable and lever free-play. Might also be worth trying the max and min clutch adjustments as well. There may be an issue with the new clutch or cable if it still won’t cooperate.
1 turn is causing dragging. 1/2 is getting better with increased tension at the lever , actually no free play. Neutral hard to find, eventually with 2000rpm. I am thinking of setting the adjustment screw at 1/4 or less since the plates are new. Barnett carbon fibre, nothing fancy, no additional plate.
Wait, does this make the friction zone smaller, or does it just bring it closer to the grip and the whole range stays the same? I'd like to move it closer to the bar after I get my Oberon adjustable levers installed just to make it easy for me to handle it. The stock levers are not very female friendly, having to deal with the friction zone starting so far out is an issue for me, and having a very narrow friction zone makes it even harder. I'd like the friction zone to start as close to the grip as I can with a small amount of free play, and then be a wide zone so I can have some more fine control over the power of the bike.
Hey FranBunnyFFXII - great questions! You might try leaving it as it is and installing the adjustable levers. If it still needs a change, maybe try the smaller friction zone first and see how that does. With a few tries you should be able to find the sweet spot. Let me know what you end up with!
@@RonsWorkshop What about my first question though? I'm not sure Im understanding here. Does the adjustment make the friction zone smaller or just engage sooner? From the looks of your demo, it seems to just move the friction zone closer to your Grip. Does it actually change the size of the range of the friction zone. Or does 1/2 turn just make it engage closer to the grip? From the looks of it, it seems to just move it closer to the grip. Your demo really only shows where the clutch starts to grab, but nothing really that attributes to how wide the friction zone is. Geometry logic here but it'd seem that if you want a wider span of control, you'd want to have the engagement closer to the grip. The farther away it engages, the less span you have to work with. It seems however this adjustment simply moves the friction zone closer or farther away from the grip.
The way I look at it is that the friction zone is from the grip to the point the clutch engages. So if it engages sooner, it’s a smaller friction zone. If the clutch engages later, it’s a larger friction zone. More or less lever movement to work with between full clutch disengagement and full clutch engagement. The adjustable lever can bring the lever closer to the grip, but you’d have to make sure it didn’t prevent full disengagement.
@@RonsWorkshop Ah I see. Im thinking for my hands Ill probably need to use the closest to the grip setup that doesnt stop full engagement. Thank you for the information, your channel has been immensely helpful!
Sounds like a good plan! Let me know what you end up with. And thank you for the kind words! If you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
I filled up my primary case with ams oil primary fluid, I'm short like 2 ounces and no where to get more ams oil until next week, can I add 2.ounces of Lucas oil on top?
Hey Val - I’m not sure about compatibility. I’d guess you could could do that but it’s worth checking their website or double-checking the fine print on the bottle.
@@RonsWorkshop hey Ron, quick question, I've been trying to set my friction zone closer to handle, I've tried half turn, full turn, 3/4 turn and all seem to set friction zone too far from handle, I havnt tried 1/4 turn, would that be too close? I've followed your videos to the t, except when I leave in gear and I try to tighten the nut the clutch still turns. I have a 2020 fatboy with a Milwaukee 8. Thanks again
Hey Val - did you set the lever free-play as well? Here’s a bit more detail on that: ua-cam.com/video/NhLhDhKlba8/v-deo.html There’s not a ton of adjustment, but if everything is set within spec you should be able to tell a difference between the extremes. Let me know how it goes…
Hey Ron, I've tried these different adjustments on my 97 soft tail. I cant seem to make any change. The clutch is engaging within a 1/4 inch release. I've inspected everything, cannot find any issues with the primary or transmission side. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. TY Sir!
Hey FSAUDIOGUY - have you adjusted the cable as well, to make sure the lever free-play is within spec too? Also, I’m not sure if the hub adjustment range is the same for the 97. Double check that too. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron, yeah I've checked everything I know to look at. I cant recall any Harley I've ever owned acting this was with a clutch release. Its like no matter what I do I cant gain any free play on the clutch lever engagement point. Kind of stumped here. TY for your previous reply.
I managed to track down a pdf of the service manual - I can send it to you if you want to review it and make sure all the bases are covered. Send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop or send email. UA-cam strips out the email address from comments, so I can’t provide it here. But, if you visit my “About” page on UA-cam and then click on “View Email Address” you can contact me that way. Note: You have to be logged into UA-cam to see the email address. Here’s a link to the page: ua-cam.com/users/RonsWorkshopabout
On my Electra I had issue free years ago w getting slippage and found my clutch adjustment screw thread were stripped. Causing it to lose adjustment over time. A good reason it to over tighten the jam nut. Replacing the plate and adjusted screw. Fixed it.
Which adjuster screw setting do you use and have you tried different settings? I go with ½ turn out and that gives me good clutch modulation with enough friction zone -- I like the clutch engagement to begin sooner rather than later. What do you prefer?
I've always chosen the 3/4 turn because Goldilocks is my childhood idol living in the happy medium of "Just Right".
I definitely prefer sooner. But I didn't know what was what till now, so I always did a 3/4 turn. Will do 1/2 from now on.
Back again after my one quarter turn. I found little to no difference and will return it to the factory setting of half turn. I would not like to try any lesser setting than the one quarter turn I performed due to the expansion of metal components and its effects.
@dapezent thanks for sharing your results!
I’ve looked at dozens of videos looking for this information. Everyone will tell you how to do the adjustment but no one explains why the 1/2 or full turn or what that does exactly. Thank you!
Hey jbarksdale - I’m so glad this was helpful! Thank you for the kind words.
Yes,. That was a good tip.
Finally, a real 'how to' with a bonus of 'here's the results' description. My pers preference, have it engage almost immediately. SMALL friction zone for me.
Hey Wade - thanks for the feedback! Yeah me too - 1/2 turn all the time.
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hey Wade - sorry for the delay in responding - for some reason this comment didn’t show up. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for sharing your setup!
Chhh
Just to let you know. Between you and John Maxwell I have successfully adjusted my 2019 Softail Slim so I can actually find neutral EASY. I went with your suggestion of one full turn and it works like a champ. John suggested 3/4. Thanks for putting in the effort to make videos that truly are helpful. P.S. I have been riding since I was 15 (in Cali you could get a permit at 15) and I’m 62 now.
Hey Jack! Thanks so much for the kind words. I'm so glad you were able to get the clutch adjusted and dialed in. 47 years of riding - love it! Keep enjoying the ride, my friend.
neutral is all way down to first, then a slight nudge back upward, just very slight n you should find it easily about every time once you practice that way, I hate when I find neutral while shifting to easy to second gear once in a while lol
I know what you mean! I shake my head every time I do that 😡
@@AmericanPatriot-cw9xe😂
I'm a decent mechanic. Your vids make me a better mechanic.
I love working on my own bike. You save me Huge money not having to go to Harley.
Cheers
🇨🇦👍🍻
Hey Len - thanks so much for the kind words! I'm so glad the info is helpful :)
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
A friend of mine recently had leather wraps braided onto her bike’s levers and grips.
The friction zone was already short and needed adjustment at the basket prior to this addition.
This video was essential to adjusting the clutch to allow for the covers and still fully disengage.
I surely appreciate your time and effort in making this video. Keep up the great work!
Hey Jim - thanks so much for the kind words and for sharing that info. I’m so glad it was helpful!
This lesson helped me "adjust" my thought process.
THE best explanation and "how to" EVER on this topic! Thanks!
I’m glad this was helpful, and thanks for the kind words!
Good stuff Ron! I always wondered about 1/2 turn vs 1 full turn! Thanks for doing the work!
Glad this was helpful!
Just wanted to chime in and say I've done my clutch adjustment (2022 FXLRS, only 88 miles in ) after watching this video, and it already feels 100x better thanks to the 1/2 turn alteration of the friction zone. Thanks Ron
Hey Daryl - thanks for letting me know! I’m so glad this was helpful.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Very smart video and EXTREMELY well communicated!!! Once I receive my reduced clutch lever I'll get to work making the adjustment at the hub. I'm going to start with the half turn. Will update once completed the work. Best.
Thanks so much for the kind words! I responded with more info on your other comment as well.
Absolute best video for me on clutch adjustment at the basket. To the point. Excellent explanation on whats happening and which way to turn the Allen screw to get the engagement you want.
Hey Steve - I’m so glad this was helpful, and thank you for the kind words!
Just worked on my clutch on my 23 Road Glide Limited. Working on the free play adjuster cover around the lower is tight, but doable. For some reason, the cover tube is ever so slightly a smaller inner diameter than the outer diameter of the tensioning spring. Sliding that cover off and on is the hardest part of the job! lol. Thanks for the video man. I’ve always had hydraulic clutched bikes and have never had to adjust any part of the clutch (just fluid changes), so this was new to me.
I previously adjusted the free play on the clutch cable because it was too loose for my liking after about 2k miles. After adjusting the cable, my friction zone had moved to dang near the end of the lever throw and then I began the search for the solution, which you’ve provided in clear and understandable detail here. You’re awesome sir! Thanks for the great video!
Hey Brandon - Thank you for the kind words, and I’m glad you were able to get it taken care of!
1/2 turn out--shorter friction zone is where I like mine. The shorter friction zone gives me much better control at lower speeds and making tight turns.
Thanks for yet another excellent video!
You and me both! Thanks for the input and the feedback :)
Thank you finally somebody makes a video that is easy to understand
Hey Michael - thanks for the kind words! I’m glad it was helpful.
Thanx man for an excellent vid! Just did the same work on my 2020 Lowrider S, then I found your video :) Keep up the good work! First time I´ve tried shorter levers, Like ém a lot!
Hey carboorides - I’m glad this was useful, and thank for the kind words!
Excellent! Clear and exactly what I wanted to know! Thank you so much!
Hey Ephram - that’s great! Thanks for the kind words.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Super! I just got my bike back from the dealer for its 1,000 mile service and the clutch friction zone starts "way out there" now. I had it adjusted at 1/2 turn when I first bought it. Your ruler/clutch lever demo explains why! I suspected that but seeing is believing. New sub here!
Hey AwosAtis - thanks for the kind words! I’m glad it was helpful.
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
You sir, are a lifesaver. Thanks for the great video!
Hey Mad Mike - I’m so glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the kind words :)
Nice work man!👏👏
After a day of struggling found your video and finally was able to figure out how to adjust my clutch. Looking forward to riding it tomorrow and seeing if it’s easier to find neutral . Thank you
Hey JoseM - I’m so glad this was helpful, and Thank you for the kind words! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great video. Succinct and to the point. No fluff. Excellent diagrams.
Hey Bryan - thank you for the kind words! If you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Thank you, wanted to adjust my friction zone without having to guess which way to go. Thank you for the video 🤘
Hey Dempsey Newman - I’m so glad this was helpful!
This video was so ‘clutch’.
PUNS!!!
Thanks much.
🤣 glad it was helpful!
Great videos. You helped me a ton while working on my bike, deserve way more followers
Hey KM1994 - I’m glad this was helpful, and thank you for the kind words!
Thought I'd share this, found it another site. Probaly the best write up I've read when it comes to #clutch adjustment.
The manual says 1/2 - 1 turn at the clutch pak, some techs say 1/4 turn.
Alot of folks have often asked whats the difference between that 1/2 turn opposed to a full turn.
This should shed light on the adjustments.
At the clutch pack: The adjustment of the nut in the clutch pack alters where the friction zone ends up on the lever on the bars, i.e., clutch lever engages close to the hand grip or almost all the way released from the hand grip. The clutch adjuster screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement. If you turn the clutch adjuster screw clockwise, you adjust toward slippage, if you turn it counterclockwise, you increase the slack before disengagement (drag). If the adjustment screw is turned too far clockwise, the clutch will be disengaged or slip no matter what position the cable is in. If the adjustment screw is too far counterclockwise, the clutch will drag because you cannot, regardless of how much slack you remove at the lever, disengage it enough to remove the contact.
The service manual recommends 1/2 to 1 counter clockwise turn after turning the adjuster screw clockwise to lightly seat the screw.
Following the the procedures in the service manual, with 1/2 turn counter clockwise the clutch will engage further from handgrip as you release the lever. Turning adjusting screw 1 turn, you will feel the clutch engages closer to the handgrip as you release the lever.
Hey Mike - sorry about the delay in responding. UA-cam held the comment for review and I just discovered it. Thanks for sharing that - it seems like that is the opposite of what I've experienced? In terms of the effects of 1/2 turn out vs. 1 full turn out...
@@RonsWorkshopI actually just commented on the comments section. Everything online from years of different forum posts about clutch screw adjustments say the exact opposite of this video which has me confused as well. I wonder if the M8 design is different or if these forum posts are wrong?
@Jazzlikestickhands I saw that comment as well. I wouldn’t think the design changed - I wasn’t sure about the effects either so I set up that crazy rig to try to measure the difference between the settings.
I tend to agree with your information. I just installed a new cable and have tried the half turn and full turn. I found clutch engagement occurred earlier with the full turn. My old cable used to engage the clutch with about three eights of an inch between the grip and lever (great for burn outs 😊). However, with the new cable installed, the lever gap is much wider now before engagement 🤷🏼♂️. I’ll adjust the clutch about one and one eight to see what happens🤞🏼, then report back here.
thank you so much for this video. Clarified some confusion i had as a am getting ready to adjust my clutch. i will subscribe.great in depth video. one of the best ive seen
Hey sd mascar - thanks for the kind words! I'm so glad it was helpful for you.
Thanks for the video reference of the difference in adjustment range best explanation video Ive seen. Makes it easier for us newer riders just getting in to wrenching.
Hey Lee - thank you for the kind words!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Dude you are fantastic my friend!
Thanks so much! And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great Video! I have been dealing with this on my Road Glide. Thanks again!
I’m so glad this was helpful!
So well explained! Thank you for posting-now I'm subscribed!!
Hey B Derryberry - I’m so glad it was helpful!
Awesome, awesome, video! Saved me a bunch of bullsh$t!! I was absolutely stuck trying to get my clutch figured out on my new FXLRS. I was about to get desperate! Thanks so much for posting this!!!
Btw, I’m running a 1finger clutch on my low rider S. Same one I ran on the iron 883 before it. It fits both bikes. Good thing too because it cost enough. Makes that clutch pull so much lighter. Awesome clutch. 1finger. I won’t be without it on a Harley.
Hey Robby - thanks for the kind words and I’m so glad it was helpful! And yes, the 1fngr levers are nice. They didn’t work out for me but I liked many of the features. I ended up with Lucky Speed Shop shorties until I made my own. If want to see the shorty lever saga you can check out this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLH2H949XFljmF6-31PFqB4vqsUanEQSXZ.html
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Good video. 3/4 turn.
Perfect video! Answered my question completely! I prefer the clutch to engage sooner, especially when doing slow maneuver riding. Just seems like I have more to play with there instead of almost letting the clutch all the way out before engaging. Will it hurt the clutch if I only use a quarter turn on the setting to shorten the throw even more. I'm a newbie, so just learning these components and the bike. Thanks for your time and knowledge!!
Hey Big88Country - thanks for the kind words!
I’d stick with the published ranges to be on the safe side. Of course you could experiment, but I wouldn’t want to risk things starting to malfunction and possibly leave me stranded somewhere.
Great content man! Very well put together and extremely helpful. Just gained a subscriber. Keep up the awesome work 💪🏻
Hey Nathan - I’m glad this was helpful, and thanks for the kind words!
Yay ! At last a video that shows the difference between the two (1/2 vs 1 full turn) settings ! When I took my ride to H-D shop for the 5000mile service, the mech reset it at 1 full turn... I ended up surprised when calling for power as I released the clutch, for there wasn't any where I expected it. Almost dropped the bike as I was starting to lean in a turn 😱. I now know how to set it to where I like it ! Thank you so much !
Hey Jef - I’m so glad this was helpful! Yeah, that first clutch release after an unexpected adjustment could be dicey!
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Hi Ron....thing I like about your videos is the way you explain each step that we can understand in laymens terms. Ok... changing to an adjustable clutch lever on my 21 Tri Glide the friction zone seems a bit different than stock lever. So the further I adjust the new lever closer to the bar seems to really shorten up that zone to the point that neutral is little harder to hit. If the first hub adjustment you do is not where you want it and can you do a second adjustment without releasing the spring tension in yellow housing ? Just want to make sure. Thanks for your very informative videos....
Thanks for the kind words!
I’d release and reset the red clip/spring at the yellow adjuster with every clutch hub adjustment. That way you know you’ve got the same baseline every time.
Love your videos. Keep em coming. Well done. Where did you get your levers?
Hey Chris - thanks for the feedback! Those are Lucky Speed Shop levers. I did a three-video series about them, and I’ll leave a link below. I’ve also done my own shorty levers with a unique coating, and the first video for those will be out soon.
ua-cam.com/video/FWbsgFrtX4s/v-deo.html
If you want a channel sticker send me a DM on Telegram or Instagram with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Another great video. Subscribed.
Hey TheImtoomuch - thanks so much for the kind words! Glad it was helpful.
Awesome video!! Thank you!
Hey Greg - I’m so glad this was helpful!
you got my grips : i have them with the boss on the throttle there so good ....top vid Ron
Hey Damien - obviously you have good taste! How’s the throttle boss? I’ve considered getting one.
@@RonsWorkshop mate one of the best feeling upgrades to do its just so easy to lean on and comfy..
Good to know!
hi Ron I'm thankful that I watched this Video again! Clutch engagement is something that you can get used to, But I see things a bit differently. As per this Vid a full turn out results in a later engagement, so I think it would follow that disengagement would start sooner. I'm just trying to alleviate the clunking shifting up and down. thanks to this Vid I ordered a set of Slim line front LED indicators that I saw on your test Bike. Do you like them? Best of Everything Ron, Brian
I’m glad this was helpful! And yes, I really like the turn signals.
Thank you for the video!! It is confusing because they say if you do slow speed menuvering a lot you should be at a full turn or close to. So why would you want it engaging later for slow speed riding? I like it sooner, and have always liked about 3/4 turn. Works well for normal riding and slow speed riding. I do a lot of slow speed riding to try and avoid putting my legs down as much. Especially approaching redlights. I always favored the 3/4 turn. In fact had to adjust a couple times after getting my bike back from the shop today. I'm wondering if the new clutch basket effects the adjustment a little as it seems to be a bit finicky now. Maybe the new basket needs to break in. Is that possible?
Maybe the later engaging for slow speed riding helps so you just have more range to work with, more margin, so nothing happens too quickly. Maybe? And I’m not sure on the new clutch but it would not surprise me if it needs to wear in a little.
I just purchased my 5th Harley. It’s a 2021 Street Glide Special. OMG it’s the largest clutch engagement ever. I need this fixed asap. It engages where my grip strength is the weakest. Not a safe zone.
Let me know if you’re able to adjust it to your liking.
Your video is outstanding! The service manual does not cover this in depth like you do however....
Looking for some help: Just adjusted the clutch on my 2024 road glide. It seems like the clutch is now engaging way too late.
I have adjusted the clutch under the derby cover following the service manual and backed it out a 1/2 turn from seating.
I have adjusted the clutch Ferrell and it had 1/8 inch space
Under full throttle the clutch does not slip. The shifting is smoother.
The only issue is that thay clutch engages too late for my liking.
How can I make the clutch engagement sooner?
Thank you for the kind words! I’m not sure there’s a way if all the adjustments are in spec. Let me know if you make any progress.
My friction zone is horrible just about fully released when I start getting power to the wheels really hard to use the friction zone for slow speed manufacturing with it. Time to adjust it. I like engagement with around 3/4inch of lever release so I can slip a finger in if I need to keep from fully removing power. Thanks for the tech tip
Hey Brian - I’m glad it was helpful! Let me know how the adjustment goes.
Thanks!
I too have suspected the trans. The speedometer does not work and a new sensor also failed. My plan is to diagnose the problem in service ! [ride it till whatever the problem is fails! LOL HA ] Thanks for the counsel !! If I am able I will update you when the in service diagnostic is complete and the problem is resolved.
Sounds like a reasonable plan! Love it - diagnosing the problem in service. Enjoy the ride!
Follow up on my 97fxd clutch repair. I ran unit 500 miles and re-adjusted.[adjusting screw 1 turn out]. I used worn but serviceable clutch steel & friction plates to eliminate the center steel spring plate. I changed the oil after the 500 miles. I beleave the initial gear clash was the mix up of parts. I should have kept all disks in order when dissembling. Plus the addition of 1 steel and 2 foreign friction plates all had to mate up[ie break in?]
Thanks for the update! I’m glad you got it sorted out. Enjoy those miles now :)
Great Video! My clutch cable broke just below the circle at the lever a couple of weeks ago. I replaced it over the weekend and even if I go one full turn out it still wants to stay engaged? Should I go out 1 1/2 turns? Or is there something else I should look at?
Hmmm. Make sure there’s nothing binding or stuck - you should be able to stay within the adjustment range and get full engagement and disengagement.
Can't wait for the shorty lever video. I want some, but I'd rather make them than drop $180 on it.
I just realized this was made a year ago. I reckon that shorty levers video is out by now.
Hey Troy - you can check it out here:
✨My Shorty Levers Were Too Long • I Made My Own 😀 DIY Shorty Levers • How To
ua-cam.com/video/CdhHAy-xnAc/v-deo.html
The project went well and it’s very easy to do. I snagged a set of levers from eBay to use for the mod. Let me know if you try it!
thank you thank you thank you
I’m glad this was helpful!
Great video
Thanks Cj! Glad it was helpful.
The friction zone is the zone where the clutch just begins to engage to where it is fully engaged. The more you back the aduster out the wider the zone will be .Less than a half turn you run the risk of the clutch not fully disengaging, more than a full turn you risk the clutch not full engaging , a half to 3/4 out is about as far a normal rider needs.
Hey Ron I got 2019 street bob 107. I’m getting trans fluid drip at lower adjustment on front left of frame. Is there a seal or o-ring that needs replacing? Thank for the help and love the videos bud…
I don’t think there’s a seal that would allow it to drip there. Could it be coming from somewhere else? Forward controls or mid controls?
And thanks for the kind words :)
Hi Ron, thanks for the great video. I have tried this adjustment on my 2018 Softail slim and set the basket adjustment at 3/4 turn out.
A couple of questions if I may.
Does this adjustment affect the total amount of clutch disengagement? When pushing the bike without motor running should the effort be the same with the bike in gear with clutch pulled in as it is with bike in neutral?
Glad this was helpful! I’m not sure about total disengagement as it relates to the adjuster screw setting. For resistance when pushing, I’d expect them to feel different. Even comparing them when cold vs. hot will feel different as well.
Thanks Ron
When I count to 5 the 5 is where my clutch engages so I definitely need to do this.
Let me know how it goes - it’s a quick process.
I have a 2000 H D Fatboy , Ever since my clutch upgrade with the Extra clutch Plate my release point is too far away from Hand Grip. At a half turn out it still is too far away. Can I try Less like a 1/4 turn out ? I want my release point Closer to hand grip. Your Video Is Great! Exactly what I'm Looking For.
Hey John - thanks for the kind words! I wouldn’t recommend going outside of the range in the manual - it could have unintended consequences. Maybe the range is different with the extra clutch plate? I don’t have any experience with that mod so I just can’t say. Let me know if you learn anything or get the results your looking for!
Great video! My dyna has an easy pull clutch. When I loosen the clutch cable, the car is not easy to shift into gear, and the car is easy to move forward in first gear; but when I tighten the clutch cable, turning the accelerator hard will cause the clutch to slip and lose speed. Is it possible to adjust according to the method mentioned in your video? Tighten the screw a full turn? Thank you, brother!
Hey HUFdes - it’s probably worth doing this adjustment but make sure you confirm the setting for your bike. I’m guessing it will be the same but I’m not sure. You should also check the clutch cable free play and set it as well. If you get both of those set, if you still have problems it may be a clutch problem or time for a new clutch if it’s got high milage or hard miles.
Should this all be done while in first gear or neutral? I also heard through some videos, that you need to pull the clutch lever 3 times after tightening the nut in the derby cover. Is that right?
Did the adjustment on the hub as shown on my 2004 with factory clutch. Then ajusted the cable for 1/8 free play. Bike was cool. Went to ride the bike and there was zero engagement whatsoever, got stuck in my driveway....So i had taken note of the existing adjustment ccondition as I went at this which is the way the bike existed for the last 20k miles or so--there was 8 turns of spacing at the cable adjuster, and the allen bolt on the hub was 3.5 turms out from "lightly seated".
So after not being able to engage at all, I stsrted experimenting and if you turn in my Allen screw until it lightly seats, you can go another 3 full turns in before it gets to another level i would describe as "hard to turn". So that left me wondering what the manual means by "lightly seated"? Anyhow I am now sitting at 1 turn out from this hard/firmly seated condition at the hub, and to set the cable and lever free play i ended up with being 6 turns out on the cable adjuster. I can ride my bike again and it feels like it did before i touched the stupid clutch in the first place. Question is, am i looking at a worn out clutch? My adjustment screw is essentially now 2 turns IN versus 1/2 to 1 turn out.....how is that even possible? Im getting ready for a 3 week trip with firm reservations and no more time for bike maintenance, and its very frustrating wondering if ill need a new clutch whole im on the road.
Hey wyomatt - I’m really not sure. I’d probably feel the same way, but I don’t have any similar experience so I just can’t assess your situation. Let me know what you learn and/or end up doing.
Hi Ron, I thought you were following the service manual procedure, I see you added a step although I can't see that as a issue. The step I am talking about is once the jam nut is loose you back the adjustment screw off about a turn or two before turning in CW until lightly seated. SM doesn't mention this , it goes from loosening jam nut to turning in adjustment screw until lightly seated. I think that step you added may be better to insure the adjustment screw is lightly seated
Hey DylanDream - you're exactly right. I wanted to make sure there was no chance that the adjuster was already tighter than it should be. Backing it out establishes a good starting point to work from.
@@RonsWorkshop once I adjust the clutch and I still have my Allen key in there if I wiggle my Allen key, there's some movement with the little round plate behind the adjustment screw. Is this acceptable?
@@dylandream2248 I believe so - I can't recall if I saw the same movement when I did mine, but based on what I know about the mechanism (release plate) that seems ok. You can see the release plate in my recent chain kit video - here's the part of the video where I remove it: ua-cam.com/video/HMKcblpChcA/v-deo.html
@@RonsWorkshop I will check it out right now. I would like to send you a video somehow of what I saw on my bike. Do you have an email?
I watched that video you posted and it appears that there's some movement at eight minutes when you're removing the release plate
First, thank you for your help and reply ! The bike had sat in a cool garage for 24 hours between adjustment attempts. [ saying 1" was my error I meant 1 full turn from bottom of adjustment] I took the clutch apart because of hard shift and inability to easily find neutral. I replaced the spring center steel spacer with regular clutch fiber and steel plates. The 30,000 mile fiber plates were not burned and looked very good. They were 3 to 4 thousands worn. I did not think worn out. After this rework of the clutch there was more pressure on the clutch plates by the harder pull of the clutch. The clutch works but not as well as my 2011 FL. It is improved, perhaps this is all I can expect?? Thank you !
Man, I just don’t know. Maybe there’s an issue with the transmission? Just throwing out ideas but there aren’t many variables with the clutch and it seems like you got them covered.
Speaking from my experience, I found it difficult to find neutral when stopping. Turns out that the cable was routed with a tight bend in it - not too tight to look visually unacceptable. I routed it as straight as possible and I can now get neutral easily.
Great information! Thank you!
So apparently I need to replace my clutch cable,, I tried both 1/2” & 1” back out and my clutch cable still doesn’t change, I can’t get my cable loose enough or tightened enough to even operate, which stinks badly. After I adjusted the set screw behind primary & adjust set screw on the cable the clutch still doesn’t move and the lever won’t give resistance once tightened nor will the lever won’t stay in the lever housing if I loosen it a little bit, so either way I’m screwed, no fun intended.
Thank you again for doing and sharing!
Hey Babybugspaw70 - thanks for the kind words! Let me know how it goes if you replace the cable. Will the cable move inside the housing or is it seized up?
@@RonsWorkshop The cable in the lever housing will move with no problem,, too much actually, so if I loosen the long adjust screw “nut” on the cable, it’s so loose that the lever is free & then when tightening as when the lever is moving outward the adjustment long nut disconnects & I have about 1” showing outside the lever housing instead of 1/16-1/8”, so either way there’s way to much slack in the cable which is making me believe that the cable is either broken or stretched or came loose inside the clutch housing on the other lower side of the bike(where the clutch cable goes into the transmission cover) if I’m describing that correctly.?. Frustrating as all get out,,
Hmmm. If it’s broken you should be able to tell by moving the top end and seeing if it moves down at the bottom. It does sound like something is amiss. The cable slack issue is separate from the clutch adjustment, so your suspicions may be correct.
@@RonsWorkshop yes sir, the cable lever will not engage with the Clutch at all, the lever is so loose or too tight that either I can’t pull the lever at all once adjusted or when I barely loosen the cable adjustment a tiny bit, the cable jumps out of the lever housing (slack) so the lever doesn’t have enough pull to do anything.
I will let you know the end result,
Thanks again!
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron! Wanted to update you, it’s been several weeks or so but, yes, once I had the clutch cable replaced it solved all problems. I do have a question though, I’m like you, I like a very small friction zone, is it normal that after riding a little while and clutch heats up that my friction zones seems bigger after clutch heats up & after bike is cooled down that friction zone is smaller, BUT, after a week or 10 days it seems to get bigger friction zone even after the bike cools down. I feel like I have to keep adjusting the clutch cable to “keep” the friction zone smaller. Is that Normal? Or should I adjust it behind primary & clutch cable same time now that a new clutch cable has been replaced recently & then it should be tight friction zone longer time wise.?
Super useful vid! I wish I could give you ten likes instead one. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad the videos are helpful.
I can hear that it's cammed but what's the exhaust it sounds great
V&H Twin Slash with competition baffles.
I like the clutch to engage/disengage without too much pull on the lever - just an inch or so. So I'm guessing that the half turn on the adjuster screw is the way to go?
The lever/bar distance won’t necessarily transfer between bikes, but that’s probably a good starting point. It’s such a quick procedure that you can easily re-adjust if for fine tuning. Let me know what you end up with.
@@RonsWorkshop Thanks for the reply - will do.
So, I adjusted the clutch basket by using the weight of the allen wrench to determine where it begins to seat. I then left the allen wrench in that position where it begins to seat, and pressed the clutch lever. When I did, the allen wrench move a little more. Or to put it another way, when I went to seat the clutch adjustment with the allen wrech, I positioned the wrench so it would fall from an upright position to a "seated" position. The fall was not that far, and I figured thats where the adjustment begins to seat. Then when i pulled the clutch lever in, the position of the allen wrench move more, which made it look like the seated positing changed. Yes, there is freeplay in the clutch lever.
Hey PJ _ D - if you maximize slack in the upper cable (compress the spring on the yellow adjuster and snap in the red clip), and then loosen the jam nut, and then back out the adjuster, and then squeeze the lever a few times (the clutch will barely even move). That should settle everything where it needs to be. From there you should be able to dial in the setting you want. Once the adjuster screw touches, lock it down without and further changes that could give it a new touch point.
Let me know if that helps…
@@RonsWorkshop um...almost a month ago, I added length to the cable with an item from fatbaggers. During that process, I broke the adjuster. A new cable with adjuster has been on order so long, that I cancelled it today.
Man that stinks. What length cable / part number do you need?
@@RonsWorkshop 37200439. Its the entire upper cable. I ordered one through my local dealer over a month ago. Today they said nothing coming my way until at least January. Then they mentioned something about a design change. So now I am looking for a complete cable...lever, all the way to clutch.
I checked with my dealer and the story was the same :/
I HAVE A QUESTION:
What kind of constant pressure, if any, is being applied to the clutch under normal driving conditions when you're not actually depressing the clutch lever? I'm wondering if there's some constant pressure happening at 1/2 a turn or a full turn adjustment? Will the clutch wear out faster in either one of the adjustment settings? It seems to me that at the 1/2 adjustment there's going to be a little extra pre-existing pressure in order to engage the friction zone earlier than compared to the 2 full turn adjustment? Maybe it's a non issue, but I prefer to engage the friction zone sooner because it's easier, but does this promote premature wear on the clutch plates?
I don’t know the specs, but I can’t see how any setting within the manual spec would allow premature wear. I suspect if it’s adjusted within range the clutch plates get full pressure, with just the throw being affected by the different settings.
I have a 2022 Road Glide Special is it the same adjustment. Also it's hard to get into neutral ,very annoying..Would the adjustment under the derby cover correct the neutral problem.. A lot of people are having the same problem with finding neutral. I called 2 Harley dealers here in New Jersey and they are completely useless. They insist on bringing it in.. as far as the plastic part with the red clip, does that actually get turned ,is there threads where it can moves up and down? Thank you in advance you have done the best explanation I have found on here. I definitely subscribed. Thank you again
Hey Chilll - I’d start with the free-play adjustment. The red clip just pops out and pops in and the spring on the yellow part keeps the lever under preload and takes up the slack for proper free-play. Let me know if that helps or if you need more info.
@@RonsWorkshop I've already done that, it did not help
Yeah maybe try the adjustment down at the hub and see how that goes. If you set that, and then set the free-play, the only other normal variable is clutch wear.
@@RonsWorkshop it's a brand new bike with 65 miles on it
Any slop in the shift linkage?
As a side note I think it took about 1000 miles before I could easily find neutral on my bike.
Can you make a video on replacing the brake line for adding taller bars?
Hey colton - I’ll put it on the list! Thanks for the suggestion!
I usually go between 1/ 2 and 1 full turn .Have you ever done the go for a ride come home keeping the bike up right idle for a little while shut the bike down jack it up and pull the crank sensor and measure the oil you get out of the crank case I got 8 ounces called the local dealer they said 5 to 8 ounces was normal I’m not I’m not sure that’s true what do you think?
Hey Ken - thanks for sharing that! Regarding the cranks sensor oil check - I haven’t done that yet BUT I plan too. I may incorporate that into the check I do on the intake bolts after a long ride. I check both of them. I may be wrong, but 8 oz. sounds a bit high. Double check Kevin Baxter’s info on sumping. He gives a number but I feel like it’s more like 2-4 ounces. He mentions it in a couple of his videos but I’m sure he mentioned it in the live Q&A on sumping from around March of this year.
Is a quarter turn gonna eff something up? I like my friction zone right off the handle.
Hard to say - there could be unforeseen issues if it’s outside the manual-cited range. BUT you could try it and see how it feels. I wouldn’t do any long trips without a decent number of increasing-duration rides…just to be on the safe side. Let me know how it goes!
I do 3/4 turn out
Should this all be done while in first gear or neutral?
Leaving it in gear makes it easy to break the jam nut loose.
I was not aware that you could replace just the top half of the cable, and I replaced the whole thing... due to the cable snapping. Watched this video hoping to see if there was any adjusting to do on the opposite end under the clutch cable cover... mainly because after installing the new cable the clutch lever is hard and the clutch doesn't seem to disengage. Would doing the adjustment shown in the video help?
Hey Ivan - in looking at the manual for 2018+ models it doesn't look there is any adjustment down at the lower end of the cable at the clutch release cover. It sounds like something is bound up. Did you install a one-piece cable, or another two-piece cable? What year bike is it?
@@RonsWorkshop I used a one piece cable and it's a 2020
The one-piece cable should have an adjuster about half way up the frame. Sounds like that could be the culprit. Let me know how it goes.
How do you squeeze the clutch while it's loose as you are adjusting the lower clutch assembly. Thanks
Hey J Beckman - there will be just enough cable tension for it to actuate the clutch just a bit. It won't move much...just a bit. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop thanks
Stupid question. At 3:28 how do you pull in clutch 3x when it's still loose to seat it ?
Hey Wolverine Chamberlin - not a dumb question at all! It has just enough take-up to allow it to move the clutch a bit. It seems totally unnecessary, but that’s the procedure the manual states.
@@RonsWorkshop I already adjusted my clutch last night, will it make a big difference not doing that before setting screw in 1/2 turn back ?
Probably not - see how it feels when you ride. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Appreciate it
So I don’t have anything that tells me or measures the foot pounds or inch pounds so how tight would you say to tighten the nut by hand?
That’s subjective for sure. I’d say decently tight with no danger of stripping it out. It’s only 6-10 ft-lbs so that’s not a lot.
Shouldn't having it turned out further make the clutch grab sooner and not the other way around?
Everything I've read online about Harley clutch screw adjustments suggests 1/2 turn makes it grab further away from the handle bar and a full turn grabs closer to the grip. Did they change the clutch design on the M8 or is this video wrong?
I’m not sure if the design has changed, but I doubt it. i wasn’t sure either so I set up that crazy rig to try to measure the difference between the settings.
Hello Ron I have a hydraulic clutch and you can't adjust them my lever ( friction zone) is more then half way out I was recommended to flush my line plus I got hydraulic adjustable levers. And can you explain why Milwaukee 8 have slumping mine is doing it often.
Hey William - let me know if the flushing helps. I’ve only worked with the cable-operated clutch. For sumping - there’s a lot too that. Check out my recent video where I cover a lot of the basic info: ua-cam.com/video/BaG1VdOFe48/v-deo.html
If you have a sumping problem it would be good to address it as soon as you can.
I need this info for my vrods
*Edit* they are all hydraulic
OEM levers at 3/4 turnout with Scorpion clutch.
Thanks for the info Erich! Scorpion clutch…nice! I believe a clutch upgrade is in my near future. How do you like the the Scorpion?
Adjustment at 1" is best for my 97 fxd with 30,000 miles. I have put an easy pull device on the clutch but that was 2,000 miles previous. At 1" I have minimal clash but neutral is difficult to find. Not impossible but not easy as my other Harley's?
Is there any adjustment in the lever? I wonder if that’s somehow a factor. Nothing else comes to mind in terms of adjustments. And you made the clutch adjustments with the bike at room temperature?
I'm a female rider and just watched your "friction zone" clutch adjustment video. I just got a 2021 FXBB and the clutch is really had for me to pull in. Will this technique help with that, or do you have another suggestion?
Hi Crystal - no, this won’t help with that. You can look into “easy pull” levers and/or adjustable levers. That should provide some options for you. Let me know what you end up with!
Is the Twin Cam versions the same method?
I believe so, but I’ve not worked on the twin cam so I can’t say for sure. Let me know if you get confirmation!
I don't think you are changing the width of the friction zone by changing that set screw. I think you are only taking up slack in the clutch mechanism itself, so you are shifting how much empty pull you have before actual clutch movement.
So it's doing a similar thing to adjusting your cable slack, but the cable slack is adjusted independently:
*so you can have a really slack clutch adjustment (friction zone occurs much closer to your grip) without your cable being excessively slack
-or- if you consider that as wasted motion and want the clutch to move earlier in pulling the lever:
*you can have almost all the slack taken up in the clutch, so the friction zone occurs very close to when your cable comes tight (further out from your grip)
Combining that clutch adjustment with a lever with an adjustable angle and stop, you can have a near instant clutch response (very little wasted motion) at whatever angle you want - no more huge deadzone.
Hey Andrew - thanks for sharing this info!
You mentioned a previous video you made pertaining to the clutch adjustment at the clutch hub, but I can't find it. Can you direct me?
Hey Carlos - here’s the prior video that covers just the clutch adjustment: ua-cam.com/video/qfmE5D6qxmE/v-deo.html
This seems like a dumb question but would having a shorter friction zone make it more difficult to find neutral? (For example, like a 1/4 turn makes it more touchy and hard to find vs a full turn make it super lax and easy to find.)
Not a dumb question - I didn’t notice any difference in finding neutral when I played with the different settings. It seems that as long as it’s set to the proper range, and therefore allows full clutch disengagement, shifting to neutral should be unaffected. That’s my theory anyway :)
@@RonsWorkshop Gotcha, thanks so much for the reply!!!
Ron, I have 3 new stronger clutch springs that I want to install. Do I need to remove the entire primary cover to do so or is there a way of accessing the ability to do so just thru the derby cover?
Hey Palmetto LowLife - checking the manual, it looks like you can do it through the derby cover. If you can ping me in email or DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal @RonsWorkshop I can send you info from the manual (with diagrams). UA-cam strips out the email address from comments, but if you visit my “About” page on UA-cam and then click on “View Email Address” you can contact me that way. Note: You have to be logged into UA-cam to see the email address. Here’s a link to the page: ua-cam.com/users/RonsWorkshopabout
@@RonsWorkshop I have the 21’ softail service manual. What page is it on ? I must be blind
Mine is a pdf version without page numbers, but it’s under Drive and Transmission > Clutch > Disassemble and Assemble: Clutch Pack
@@RonsWorkshop thanks Man!
14' street glide.. 30k miles on the stock clutch.. it slips when you power shift in 4-6th gears or going wot.. can it be adjusted or time to replace it? It's got cams , exhaust and tume..100/111
Hey Jody - I’d say it’s worth trying to adjust it since it’s such an easy project. Double check the manual for the 14 though - I’m not sure if the range is the same. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop appreciate the info.Ive ordered one already.. won't hurt to see if it can be adjusted.. fixing to take a 2800 mile tour to the grand canyon in 3 weeks.. don't need any breakdowns. I ride the snot out of it, harder than I probably should. But.. its fun and it's what we do..lol☕👍
Right on!
I get gear clash at 1/2 adjustment. It lessens as I increase the gap. I use chrome stock levers. Is my clutch worn out? The fiber disks are not showing wear [?] the steel are perfect.
Hey red tomcat - that’s puzzling. How many miles are on the clutch? I’m no expert, but I wouldn’t expect gear clash anywhere within the adjustment range.
No matter how I adjust they Allan key adjustment, the clutch engages very far out. Ant suggestions or thought onn what I may be doing wrong?
Hey Jon - are you adjusting it with the bike fully cooled off at room temperature? And how many miles are on the clutch? And you’re starting by lightly tightening the Allen bolt until it just touches before backing it off?
I have a hard time adjusting my elite mototech levers with evolution clutch. Heard 1/4turn at the hub and like no freeplay at the lever works but man does tbat cable feel tight
Hey Isaac - yeah you probably want some free-play, even if it’s just a 1/16”. Something to give it a little wiggle room.
@@RonsWorkshop for sure. I'm just scared I'm going to fuckin up the throw bearing or snap a cable
Right!
Having problems getting the right adjustment after clutch and cable replacement. Will shift easily when the engine is off but no way when is running. Currently 1/2 turn. Should I go for 1 turn then? Fxdx 2000
Double check the clutch cable and lever free-play. Might also be worth trying the max and min clutch adjustments as well. There may be an issue with the new clutch or cable if it still won’t cooperate.
1 turn is causing dragging. 1/2 is getting better with increased tension at the lever , actually no free play. Neutral hard to find, eventually with 2000rpm. I am thinking of setting the adjustment screw at 1/4 or less since the plates are new. Barnett carbon fibre, nothing fancy, no additional plate.
@michaelslawinski6449 might as well try it…
@@RonsWorkshop i am going to try it today. One question though for the pushrod, is it directional?
@michaelslawinski6449 I don’t believe so.
Wait, does this make the friction zone smaller, or does it just bring it closer to the grip and the whole range stays the same? I'd like to move it closer to the bar after I get my Oberon adjustable levers installed just to make it easy for me to handle it. The stock levers are not very female friendly, having to deal with the friction zone starting so far out is an issue for me, and having a very narrow friction zone makes it even harder.
I'd like the friction zone to start as close to the grip as I can with a small amount of free play, and then be a wide zone so I can have some more fine control over the power of the bike.
Hey FranBunnyFFXII - great questions! You might try leaving it as it is and installing the adjustable levers. If it still needs a change, maybe try the smaller friction zone first and see how that does. With a few tries you should be able to find the sweet spot. Let me know what you end up with!
@@RonsWorkshop What about my first question though?
I'm not sure Im understanding here. Does the adjustment make the friction zone smaller or just engage sooner?
From the looks of your demo, it seems to just move the friction zone closer to your Grip. Does it actually change the size of the range of the friction zone. Or does 1/2 turn just make it engage closer to the grip?
From the looks of it, it seems to just move it closer to the grip.
Your demo really only shows where the clutch starts to grab, but nothing really that attributes to how wide the friction zone is.
Geometry logic here but it'd seem that if you want a wider span of control, you'd want to have the engagement closer to the grip.
The farther away it engages, the less span you have to work with.
It seems however this adjustment simply moves the friction zone closer or farther away from the grip.
The way I look at it is that the friction zone is from the grip to the point the clutch engages. So if it engages sooner, it’s a smaller friction zone. If the clutch engages later, it’s a larger friction zone. More or less lever movement to work with between full clutch disengagement and full clutch engagement. The adjustable lever can bring the lever closer to the grip, but you’d have to make sure it didn’t prevent full disengagement.
@@RonsWorkshop Ah I see. Im thinking for my hands Ill probably need to use the closest to the grip setup that doesnt stop full engagement.
Thank you for the information, your channel has been immensely helpful!
Sounds like a good plan! Let me know what you end up with.
And thank you for the kind words! If you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Oh, scratch that, I just saw the part where you mention the 3 times squeeze.
👍🏼
I filled up my primary case with ams oil primary fluid, I'm short like 2 ounces and no where to get more ams oil until next week, can I add 2.ounces of Lucas oil on top?
Hey Val - I’m not sure about compatibility. I’d guess you could could do that but it’s worth checking their website or double-checking the fine print on the bottle.
@@RonsWorkshop thanks for reply, I decided to wait till the shop opens up Tuesday to get some more oil! Thanks for your videos, very informative!
Thanks for the kind worlds!
And if you want a sticker send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
@@RonsWorkshop hey Ron, quick question, I've been trying to set my friction zone closer to handle, I've tried half turn, full turn, 3/4 turn and all seem to set friction zone too far from handle, I havnt tried 1/4 turn, would that be too close? I've followed your videos to the t, except when I leave in gear and I try to tighten the nut the clutch still turns. I have a 2020 fatboy with a Milwaukee 8. Thanks again
Hey Val - did you set the lever free-play as well? Here’s a bit more detail on that: ua-cam.com/video/NhLhDhKlba8/v-deo.html
There’s not a ton of adjustment, but if everything is set within spec you should be able to tell a difference between the extremes.
Let me know how it goes…
One full turn vs a half turn is for hot climate areas correct?
Hey Michael - in the manual I didn’t see any references to climate, so I’m not sure. If you have any more details please share them. Thanks!
@@RonsWorkshop I'll do some research on this and let you know what I find. just makes sense to me since we're talking about heat and expansion
Ok great. You may well be right - that’s definitely a logical assertion. Thanks for checking into it!
Hey Ron, I've tried these different adjustments on my 97 soft tail. I cant seem to make any change. The clutch is engaging within a 1/4 inch release. I've inspected everything, cannot find any issues with the primary or transmission side. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. TY Sir!
Hey FSAUDIOGUY - have you adjusted the cable as well, to make sure the lever free-play is within spec too? Also, I’m not sure if the hub adjustment range is the same for the 97. Double check that too. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron, yeah I've checked everything I know to look at. I cant recall any Harley I've ever owned acting this was with a clutch release. Its like no matter what I do I cant gain any free play on the clutch lever engagement point. Kind of stumped here. TY for your previous reply.
I managed to track down a pdf of the service manual - I can send it to you if you want to review it and make sure all the bases are covered. Send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop or send email. UA-cam strips out the email address from comments, so I can’t provide it here. But, if you visit my “About” page on UA-cam and then click on “View Email Address” you can contact me that way. Note: You have to be logged into UA-cam to see the email address. Here’s a link to the page: ua-cam.com/users/RonsWorkshopabout
On my Electra I had issue free years ago w getting slippage and found my clutch adjustment screw thread were stripped. Causing it to lose adjustment over time. A good reason it to over tighten the jam nut. Replacing the plate and adjusted screw. Fixed it.
Hey slopecrazy - Thanks for sharing that!