This was 3 years ago. I know everything now but thanks anyway. Rivnuts are for metal. You can get a spec sheet at the manufacturers website. You can use a driver instead of a handheld tool. If you know everything about insert nuts then this isn't the video for you. bla bla
For the T nut, try putting the nut in from the other side. Then, when you have your bolt tightened from the top face, the connector will be under tension and you won't need to use epoxy.
Yes the t nut was installed incorrectly ,you do not screw directly into a t nut,first drill your hole put the proper bolt and flat washer through the hole, now screw the t nut on to the bolt with the prongs facing the wood,screw it till the prongs make contact with the wood,now tighten the bolt till the t nut prongs are sunk tightly into the wood,now good to go.
I just used t nuts in red oak. I used a forstner bit first to recess the nut so I could cover it with a plug. I drove it in with a hammer and a long socket to drive it home. It worked well.
when using the rev -nut.. you should be using a Nutsert gun .. which makes the bottom pull in like a pop rivet.. but you should not use them for wood.. only on aluminium or metal.. just thought i would let you know after working in fastenings for 12 yrs..
What was the outer diameter of the shaft of the D nut/insert, if the hole drilled was 8mm instead of 9mm would the threads still cut into the wood or would it split the wood because it would be too tight.
Depends on the wood type I think- with soft wood like pine you could probably still screw it in but with a harder wood it would either split the wood or be impossible to screw in. The threads on these insert nuts are tapered like screws hence me needing to do these experiments to figure out the best size hole. It was five years ago but I still have the sample piece from this video hanging on the wall in my workshop and I refer to it every time I use an insert just to remind myself what size to drill for it.
I came here to see T-nuts in action. Need to set up where a threaded steel rod can screw into bass wood and be removable when needed. I’ll definitely used epoxy to permanently fix into place.
As an alternative to epoxy some people put in a couple of short screws overlapping the edge of the t-nut to stop it popping out. Good luck with t-nut action of your own! 👍
Solid advice from the lil girl :)... When you tried the 9mm vs the 10mm you would need to consider the size of the Nut it self .. Coz 9mm worked best with the size that you have .......if the nut is bigger then the hole have to be bigger , and if it was smaller then the hole have to be smaller.
Lol, that lil girl... His voice is two octaves deeper than mine now.... He's a beast. The hole sizes I recommend in the vid work for that soft pine plywood. With hard wood you'd need different sized holes probably because it wouldn't be as forgiving to holes that are too small. Cheers dude. 👍🏻
Hahaha Great video I can remember telling my dad How to do things when It came to technology, now My eight-year-old daughter is doing the same to me haha
Hahaha- NEWF - kids are funny aren't they! He's super embarrassed about that video but I told him not to worry as not many people watch - I never knew that over 20,000 people would watch it!! Thanks mate! He tries to school me on technology every other day too fyi.
T-nut goes on the opposite side of the bolt. You don't have to hammer it in or drill little holes for the teeth or epoxy. You simply thread the bolt through the other side and it will pull the teeth unto place
To be honest mate, when the young chap chimed in mentioning your camera positioning, I was looking at the bunch of old milk bottle lids and the chunk of wood full of drilled holes, rather than what you were even talking about.... funny that😂😭👍
I'm stating the obvious, but I guess a hex bit on a proper driver is easier than a bike multitool ;-) . For the t-nut just torque it up with the bolt you are using for the other side - I think they are meant just for softwoods (like in wooden crates,etc). Also from what I have seen rivnuts, need to be expanded with a tool like pop rivets. Gonna me some threaded inserts on AliExpress. But thanks for the useful investigation
Also if your piece has the room to work, putting a hex bit in the drill press, line up the bit/insert nut/hole and then turn the drill press by hand your will obtain a straighter alignment when driving it in.
@@TakamiWoodshop Rivnuts can be set without the special tool. You can just make your own out of a spare nut by drilling out the threads so you just have a body through which a bolt will slide easily. Put a washer on the end, thread the bolt into the rivnut, hold on to your special nut with a spanner to keep it from turning, and apply torque until the rivnut expands enough to set.
Get a little longer bolt that fits the insert and cut the head off the bolt put two nuts and a washer onto the bolt then put it into a drill press with the insert threaded against the washer and nuts then drive it into the wood nice and straight...
T nuts don't work well on soft wood, and the prongs tend to fold on hardwold. I ended up having to epoxy them, to make them work. Never used those inlet type, but looking, I can tell THEY will have to be glued in also. My next task, will be a small toolbox, using nutserts + washers, to sandwich the wood.
depends on whether the rod is going to be pushing or pulling - for pushing (down, say) either will do. For pulling, an insert nut will do, but not too heavy. For real heavy things you could try a t-nut on the other side of the rod.... not sure.
With the T nut, you don't have drill the 3mm hole for the prong , all you needed to do was put a bolt from the other end and tighten it and it will pull the prong into the wood , you may have to use a washer if the wood is softwood.
Hello I have a wood footboard for a king size bed looks like there is a T - nut in the footboard don’t know the size my question is what kind a screw would I use so I can attach the footboard to the metal frame ….. THX
Hi Gina, What you need is a few bolts, rather than screws. You'd need to place the footboard up to the metal frame to see what kind of attachment mechanism it uses. Some of them have lugs on the metal that hang on bolts in the the head & foot boards and some of them use bolts that go through the frame and into the boards. Firstly you need bolts that fit the thread of the t-nuts in the board, and secondly they need to be a length where you can add a washer to the bolt and then be able snug them up against the frame so that it pulls the head/foot boards in tight so the whole assembly doesn't wobble. I would estimate the size and length by trying a bunch of random bolts until you find one with the correct size thread, and then you can take it to the store to buy bolts of the correct length, or cut some off the end if you have that capability. Hope this helps.
@@thatwasthedaythatwas that's a tricky one. I was meaning to put the additional layer of ply on the side not visible but I guess it is already installed and you don't have access. You could try these reduce length inserts: www.theinsertcompany.com/type_d_reduced_length_threaded_insert_for_wood.php or a thing called a thin wall bolt: www.blindbolt.co.nz/thin-wall-bolt/
Hey Zahir - that's a tee nut mate - you can buy them at Bunnings etc en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-nut www.bunnings.co.nz/zenith-m8-zinc-plated-tee-nut_p0249523
which one would you recommend for a square wooden dowel i thinking square dowel would be maybe 1 inch X 1 inch thick. and on the side of the dowel is where want to put one of the nut u show here. so i am going to make a 8 x 8 and the thickness is 1/8 square shelf panel and on each side a 1 inch square dowel and not sure what nut to use that will be my way to screw in each shelf to the side beans also i want the bottom shelf to be flush with the floor and not sure how i would do that i am think i will have to make it 1 inch off the floor each shelf will be 12 inch apart from each other top shelf will be flush with the top that easy enough to do it flush with the top just the bottom not sure how i would make it flush t o the floor
Hi Joe, I would recommend the one that I show at 1:10 - I think the 6mm (M6) should strong enough for a small shelf like you describe. I'm not sure it is possible to be flush with the floor - it has to be 1 inch off the floor. Using the insert is not my first recommendation however - why don't you use normal wood screws? If you are using inserts you would need to clamp the pieces together before drilling to ensure that the bolt hole lines up with the nut. Drill the holes for the diameter of your bolts, and take the clamps off and widen the hole for the insert before screwing it in. Good luck! Have you seen my shelf videos? I have about 4 of them that may be useful to watch. Cheers, Rob
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop well the reason why i was think of the 6mm insert nuts is because I wanted the shelf's to be removable not permanent. so the height of the shelf would be 5 feet tall with 6 shelf the 6th shelf would be flush at the top of dowel beam then 12 inch apart each shelf accept the bottom one as like u say 1 inch up the side bean would be not full length of five feet it would be 2 feet 6 inch long then adding a plastic square tube fitting to connect the 2 dowels together this is so i can take it apart and not be stuck with 4 long 5 feet parts the shelf will only need to hold at the most 2 pounds or less
The plan sounds good - but I still think if you are only putting 2 pounds on there you could use normal wood screws - they are strong enough and removable also, but each time you remove and re-attach the the screws the joint will become looser. If you are doing this often or many times - it may be better to use inserts with bolts. Good luck!
@Jesper Makes 😲 what I know now is what I taught myself in that video. I'm planning a follow up to my other popular video - my second most amateur video production, about my track saw adapter. I've learnt _a lot_ more about that system since I made that video.
@@TakamiWoodshop No probs, we use them all the time over here with the cheap shitty metal panels you get now but they do give you a really good anchor point to bolt onto, just need strong arms on the rivet gun!! Great tool thought for the cost. thx for the vid.
@@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924 Ahh cool! I stumbled upon a video about them a while back - it made sense immediately when the guy called them "rivet" nuts - It'd been sold to me as a "riv" nut and I hadn't made the connection.
@@TakamiWoodshop by the way I forgot to mention that on the T nuts you dont put the bolt in on the side of the T nut where you have pushed it into the wood, its designed to be used the other way round so as you do the bolt up it pulls the prongs of the nut further into the wood,. they use them in europe all the time on furniture and sofas and thats why they are so good. Grip like hell on plywood and chipboard, MDF etc On my CNC machine I have two spoil boards one made from T nuts and the other from screw in nuts and the best one is the T nuts, you put the spoil board upside down on the frame and then just use Cams and Wood clamps with bois and screw into them, holds the stock very well and I have not had a piece come out of the spoilboard yet.
This was 3 years ago. I know everything now but thanks anyway.
Rivnuts are for metal.
You can get a spec sheet at the manufacturers website.
You can use a driver instead of a handheld tool.
If you know everything about insert nuts then this isn't the video for you.
bla bla
you are right www.amazon.com/dp/B08RBRP5CL?ref=myi_title_dp&th=1
Rivenuts, or nutserts CAN be used on wood, but you must use a backing, like a washer. ( F & R ) Then, they should work rather well.
For the T nut, try putting the nut in from the other side. Then, when you have your bolt tightened from the top face, the connector will be under tension and you won't need to use epoxy.
Yes the t nut was installed incorrectly ,you do not screw directly into a t nut,first drill your hole put the proper bolt and flat washer through the hole, now screw the t nut on to the bolt with the prongs facing the wood,screw it till the prongs make contact with the wood,now tighten the bolt till the t nut prongs are sunk tightly into the wood,now good to go.
I was about to come and post this but glad to see someone else already said it!
I just used t nuts in red oak. I used a forstner bit first to recess the nut so I could cover it with a plug. I drove it in with a hammer and a long socket to drive it home. It worked well.
That's awesome. Will be super nice and tidy once covered with a plug!
Love your kid cleaning up the video space for you haha
when using the rev -nut.. you should be using a Nutsert gun .. which makes the bottom pull in like a pop rivet.. but you should not use them for wood.. only on aluminium or metal.. just thought i would let you know after working in fastenings for 12 yrs..
Thanks for sharing that Paul. It's valuable information for me and other people who watch this video. 🤙
On wood, you must use washers on both sides. Then, they work well, and are fast.
Good video! I think I see a Paramo vise in the background? The oval logo looks familiar!
8 sized drill bit also works ok for the m6 insert threaded nut, needs a bit more force
What was the outer diameter of the shaft of the D nut/insert, if the hole drilled was 8mm instead of 9mm would the threads still cut into the wood or would it split the wood because it would be too tight.
Depends on the wood type I think- with soft wood like pine you could probably still screw it in but with a harder wood it would either split the wood or be impossible to screw in. The threads on these insert nuts are tapered like screws hence me needing to do these experiments to figure out the best size hole. It was five years ago but I still have the sample piece from this video hanging on the wall in my workshop and I refer to it every time I use an insert just to remind myself what size to drill for it.
Thanks for posting, this was useful - exactly what I was looking for.
I came here to see T-nuts in action. Need to set up where a threaded steel rod can screw into bass wood and be removable when needed. I’ll definitely used epoxy to permanently fix into place.
As an alternative to epoxy some people put in a couple of short screws overlapping the edge of the t-nut to stop it popping out. Good luck with t-nut action of your own! 👍
Nice video so for making jigs for a router what would you recommend and size
Solid advice from the lil girl :)...
When you tried the 9mm vs the 10mm you would need to consider the size of the Nut it self ..
Coz 9mm worked best with the size that you have .......if the nut is bigger then the hole have to be bigger , and if it was smaller then the hole have to be smaller.
Lol, that lil girl... His voice is two octaves deeper than mine now.... He's a beast. The hole sizes I recommend in the vid work for that soft pine plywood. With hard wood you'd need different sized holes probably because it wouldn't be as forgiving to holes that are too small. Cheers dude. 👍🏻
Hahaha Great video I can remember telling my dad How to do things when It came to technology, now My eight-year-old daughter is doing the same to me haha
Hahaha- NEWF - kids are funny aren't they! He's super embarrassed about that video but I told him not to worry as not many people watch - I never knew that over 20,000 people would watch it!! Thanks mate! He tries to school me on technology every other day too fyi.
Thank you, I tried the t nut without drilling the small pilot holes and the prongs just bent underneath!
T-nut goes on the opposite side of the bolt. You don't have to hammer it in or drill little holes for the teeth or epoxy. You simply thread the bolt through the other side and it will pull the teeth unto place
@@codigitty9195 You forgot to mention "When using balsa wood....."
With the T-NUT drill the hole vertical, use hammer to start then use the vice to push it home .
Great idea!
To be honest mate, when the young chap chimed in mentioning your camera positioning, I was looking at the bunch of old milk bottle lids and the chunk of wood full of drilled holes, rather than what you were even talking about.... funny that😂😭👍
That's okay mate, I get fucked up on drugs and leave stupid comments on UA-cam videos that I didn't even watch properly too. 👍🏻
I'm stating the obvious, but I guess a hex bit on a proper driver is easier than a bike multitool ;-) . For the t-nut just torque it up with the bolt you are using for the other side - I think they are meant just for softwoods (like in wooden crates,etc). Also from what I have seen rivnuts, need to be expanded with a tool like pop rivets. Gonna me some threaded inserts on AliExpress. But thanks for the useful investigation
I was about to say the same, Thx.
Also if your piece has the room to work, putting a hex bit in the drill press, line up the bit/insert nut/hole and then turn the drill press by hand your will obtain a straighter alignment when driving it in.
That's a great tip 👍
The rivet nuts are for steel/other metal NOT wood. You use it with a gun that clamps the rivet tight to the steel.
Hey brianT, thanks man, I should get me one of those RIVET guns and stop using these things on wood.
@@TakamiWoodshop Rivnuts can be set without the special tool. You can just make your own out of a spare nut by drilling out the threads so you just have a body through which a bolt will slide easily. Put a washer on the end, thread the bolt into the rivnut, hold on to your special nut with a spanner to keep it from turning, and apply torque until the rivnut expands enough to set.
That's a cool tip Ray, thanks for that, I'm going to give it a try!
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop Forgot to mention put a little oil or grease on the threads and on the sides of the washer for easier turning.
Get a little longer bolt that fits the insert and cut the head off the bolt put two nuts and a washer onto the bolt then put it into a drill press with the insert threaded against the washer and nuts then drive it into the wood nice and straight...
Trying to use the hex drivers all attached together is the 1st problem. You can buy hex drives for the drill
T nuts don't work well on soft wood, and the prongs tend to fold on hardwold. I ended up having to epoxy them, to make them work. Never used those inlet type, but looking, I can tell THEY will have to be glued in also. My next task, will be a small toolbox, using nutserts + washers, to sandwich the wood.
Thank you.
6:18 thanks son!
So what's the best type of insert nut to use if you just wanna attach a steel rod to a block of wood perpendicularly?
depends on whether the rod is going to be pushing or pulling - for pushing (down, say) either will do. For pulling, an insert nut will do, but not too heavy. For real heavy things you could try a t-nut on the other side of the rod.... not sure.
With the T nut, you don't have drill the 3mm hole for the prong , all you needed to do was put a bolt from the other end and tighten it and it will pull the prong into the wood , you may have to use a washer if the wood is softwood.
In hardwood, the prongs bend, making it useless. Then the wood is damaged, and you must glue it in.
Hello I have a wood footboard for a king size bed looks like there is a T - nut in the footboard don’t know the size my question is what kind a screw would I use so I can attach the footboard to the metal frame ….. THX
Hi Gina,
What you need is a few bolts, rather than screws.
You'd need to place the footboard up to the metal frame to see what kind of attachment mechanism it uses. Some of them have lugs on the metal that hang on bolts in the the head & foot boards and some of them use bolts that go through the frame and into the boards.
Firstly you need bolts that fit the thread of the t-nuts in the board, and secondly they need to be a length where you can add a washer to the bolt and then be able snug them up against the frame so that it pulls the head/foot boards in tight so the whole assembly doesn't wobble.
I would estimate the size and length by trying a bunch of random bolts until you find one with the correct size thread, and then you can take it to the store to buy bolts of the correct length, or cut some off the end if you have that capability.
Hope this helps.
@@TakamiWoodshop I hope so as well Thx so much
@@TakamiWoodshop Good afternoon Rob Tee I want to thank you for help we got the bolts and the bed is up. Thank you so much!!!!
That's awesome! so good to hear, thanks for letting me know, happy sleeping 😴👍🏻👍🏻
Very informative... Thank you.
Exelente , podría haber más ejemplos?
Hi. Can anyone recommend an insert nut for 5mm ply? I know it’s thin but it’s what I have to work with. Many thanks
Could you put two layers of ply just in the spot where the insert nut goes?
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop hi Rob. I could but a bit unsightly. It’s for my camper van roof to attach a circular shower rail...
@@thatwasthedaythatwas that's a tricky one. I was meaning to put the additional layer of ply on the side not visible but I guess it is already installed and you don't have access. You could try these reduce length inserts: www.theinsertcompany.com/type_d_reduced_length_threaded_insert_for_wood.php or a thing called a thin wall bolt: www.blindbolt.co.nz/thin-wall-bolt/
The one you use at 7.25 whats that called mate?
Hey Zahir - that's a tee nut mate - you can buy them at Bunnings etc
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-nut
www.bunnings.co.nz/zenith-m8-zinc-plated-tee-nut_p0249523
which one would you recommend for a square wooden dowel i thinking square dowel would be maybe 1 inch X 1 inch thick. and on the side of the dowel is where want to put one of the nut u show here. so i am going to make a 8 x 8 and the thickness is 1/8 square shelf panel and on each side a 1 inch square dowel and not sure what nut to use that will be my way to screw in each shelf to the side beans also i want the bottom shelf to be flush with the floor and not sure how i would do that i am think i will have to make it 1 inch off the floor each shelf will be 12 inch apart from each other top shelf will be flush with the top that easy enough to do it flush with the top just the bottom not sure how i would make it flush t o the floor
Hi Joe, I would recommend the one that I show at 1:10 - I think the 6mm (M6) should strong enough for a small shelf like you describe. I'm not sure it is possible to be flush with the floor - it has to be 1 inch off the floor. Using the insert is not my first recommendation however - why don't you use normal wood screws? If you are using inserts you would need to clamp the pieces together before drilling to ensure that the bolt hole lines up with the nut. Drill the holes for the diameter of your bolts, and take the clamps off and widen the hole for the insert before screwing it in. Good luck! Have you seen my shelf videos? I have about 4 of them that may be useful to watch. Cheers, Rob
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop well the reason why i was think of the 6mm insert nuts is because I wanted the shelf's to be removable not permanent. so the height of the shelf would be 5 feet tall with 6 shelf the 6th shelf would be flush at the top of dowel beam then 12 inch apart each shelf accept the bottom one as like u say 1 inch up the side bean would be not full length of five feet it would be 2 feet 6 inch long then adding a plastic square tube fitting to connect the 2 dowels together this is so i can take it apart and not be stuck with 4 long 5 feet parts the shelf will only need to hold at the most 2 pounds or less
The plan sounds good - but I still think if you are only putting 2 pounds on there you could use normal wood screws - they are strong enough and removable also, but each time you remove and re-attach the the screws the joint will become looser. If you are doing this often or many times - it may be better to use inserts with bolts. Good luck!
The little girl 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣😂
Yeah ... I know .. LOL 😆👍
mix epoxy glue & sawdust to screw threads & piece
This video did well for you as one of the first ones?
yeah it's crazy how it all works - looking at recent data, somebody watches this video once every 12 minutes on average.
@@TakamiWoodshop And it still generated subscribers I guess. That is awesome. Did you make a follow up-video on the subject?
@@JesperMakes yeah gets about 10 subs a month I think. No follow up. Just like now, I didn't know what I was doing with UA-cam back then.
@@TakamiWoodshop Would be an easy one - show parts of the old video and cut to future self and explain what you know now.
@Jesper Makes 😲 what I know now is what I taught myself in that video.
I'm planning a follow up to my other popular video - my second most amateur video production, about my track saw adapter. I've learnt _a lot_ more about that system since I made that video.
The riv nuts are for metal not wood! they are like pop rivets....
Yep, I didn't know that at the time... Found out later what their original purpose is. Cheers dude.
@@TakamiWoodshop No probs, we use them all the time over here with the cheap shitty metal panels you get now but they do give you a really good anchor point to bolt onto, just need strong arms on the rivet gun!! Great tool thought for the cost. thx for the vid.
@@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924 Ahh cool! I stumbled upon a video about them a while back - it made sense immediately when the guy called them "rivet" nuts - It'd been sold to me as a "riv" nut and I hadn't made the connection.
@@TakamiWoodshop by the way I forgot to mention that on the T nuts you dont put the bolt in on the side of the T nut where you have pushed it into the wood, its designed to be used the other way round so as you do the bolt up it pulls the prongs of the nut further into the wood,. they use them in europe all the time on furniture and sofas and thats why they are so good. Grip like hell on plywood and chipboard, MDF etc
On my CNC machine I have two spoil boards one made from T nuts and the other from screw in nuts and the best one is the T nuts, you put the spoil board upside down on the frame and then just use Cams and Wood clamps with bois and screw into them, holds the stock very well and I have not had a piece come out of the spoilboard yet.
@@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924 cheers for the info. T-nuts are super cool little things!
Ok mam
i like to make staff.. go constructive..
You teach yourself about everything don't you?
yes I do. You?
Wait wut?
That mole can be removed and stitched up in about 15 minutes by a surgeon for about $180.
Good price, when can we get started?
Stodoys has very good designs and plans.