Thanks so much!!! We just bought new toilets (American Standard) and I can't believe this type of system doesn't come standard with new toilets. It's ridiculous to expect a tight seal to be made from a nut that tightens the toilet bowl to the tank. When it leaks, I don't know if it's because it's too loose or I cracked the thing from over tightening. Having the tank alone be water-tight sealed should be the standard, and then just secure the tank to the bowl. Genius.
Thank you so much for your video. I had a persistent slow leak to the floor until I followed your advice and removed the two washers from inside the tank. Great tip!
AH->MAZING !!!!!!! Thank you SO much for this video and the one about attaching the bowl to the toilet. WOW. My husband struggled for H O U R S.... trying to find out WHY the tank was leaking out the back bolt (we have a 3-hole pattern). NOTHING he did worked. We even bought a second kit to see if the first was faulty. Then, I had had enough and went to youtube. Found YOUR video and WALA !!!! We did what you showed, exactly how you showed - and at 9pm TOILET restored !!! Now, keep this in mind when you formulate your reaction: We are a household of 5 - with only 1 of that 5 being a male, and with 2 of that 5 being toddler girls learning to potty train - and only 1 - ONE - bathroom in our tiny home. A DAY without a toilet was AWFUL. Thank you. SOOO much for doing these videos.
Blair, I want to thank you for the inside tank info on the bolt to rubber seal to china. The directions say otherwise and I was having drips of water but now is all good again. Thank you!
Lot of videos on yt that showing less than accurate information. I have been struggling with leaking bolts. I have followed the advice here, and one hour after that - no leaks. Fingers crossed...but I am much more hopeful. Thanks Mr.Hardware!
After taking tank on and off 4 times and replacing tank seals and changing out the flush valve 3 times I can't believe it's the tank bolts all along 😑 this video gives me confidence I'm only going to have to do this repair 1 more time. Thanks!
Metal - rubber - ceramic. Thanks! Once I heard that, it gave me the confidence to move forward. The old one was a rubber washer with a stem on it that I could not pull out. So I just kept cutting off rubber until I had a nice contact with the ceramic showing.. Thanks!
The number one seal is inside the tank where the metal headed the screw is sealed against the china. Any other washers will not make that seal any better.
Thank you, will try. I've been using the metal washer inside the tank with the rubber washer and can't get the drip stopped. Will try your method today.
@@rogerh2694 The problem is there's no waterproof seal between the metal washer and the bolt head. Water gets between them and makes its way to the threads, and leaks down them to the outside, bypassing the rubber washer entirely.
2:08 well that was my problem. The instructions on the kit I bought said to use metal washer as well in tank, but when I did bolt rubber china it looks good so far
@@jazziez6467 sometimes I use a drill on the inside and starting with a 1/8 I worked my way up to a quarter inch bit and after I go through the brass head, sometimes I can drill the head right off the screw without getting underneath the tank. Another slick way is with a Dremel with a cut off wheel from underneath. You need glasses and you gotta lay on your back but you can get in there and cut away at that nut and that’ll come off pretty quick with that Dremel.
Thanks for the video. I just took my toilet apart and the washer that was being used actually went through the tank and wasn’t a flat washer. I mean it was flat but part of fit around the bolt as it went through the tank. It was hard to tell in your video but I think it was like the one you took out. I can’t seem to find these exact washers anywhere. Can I just use a use a regular flat washer?
The toilet tank bolt washers are softer, a bit more pliable. They should be sold at any hardware or big box store….. you may have to buy a kit w/bolts, nuts and washers.
If the gasket on the fill valve in the tank is good and hopefully it’s not coming from there possibly the rubbers do dry out that seal inside the tank so if you’re able, you could replace them with no harm
I've got a toilet with three bolts. When I follow these directions, the nuts prevent the Tank from seating properly, ultimately leading to leaks. Any advice?
@@MrHardware1 thanks, I doubled up on the gaskets in the tank, placed gasket then washer between tank and bowl, then washer and nut after the bowl. Probably overkill, but it worked. Thanks!
Thanks! Same problem. Package did not give me the "extra" washers and nuts, so need to purchase. Do not know why they want you to use one bolt to do two things; hold water in tank and hold tank to toilet base.
Cus other videos put metal washer inside lol and of course we follow like sheeps. Did you pur a rubber washer on outside tank too? Guessing that's to protect the china from the nut.
Riddle me this... Have you ever seen where the tank holes are too big? I've done a thousand toilets and just came across one that was leaking and the tank holes are so big that I have to try to center the gasket. Even after the fact it's still leaks.
@@futuregamer5791 no I haven’t. Sounds like you need an oversized truss headed brass bolt, w/washers to match. Get a new toilet, it should be guaranteed…
Can I use a rubber washer/metal washer combo on the bottom of the tank? Should I? Or should it be just a nut and a metal washer? If so why? Thanks for your time.
Hi. If I understand correctly, the tank's stability to the bowl (meaning less rocking) comes mainly from the bolt heads inside the tank and the nuts underneath the bowl. So what exactly is the middle nut and washer between the tank and bowl contributing? Is it to add more stability? Or is it to add more leak-proofing? Or a little of both? And why is this nut and washer combo absent in this location in many toilet setups? Thanks.
Some toilets are 2 bolt and some are 3 bolt (Mansfield and old American Standard) (which have more stable tanks, not that it is a big issue) You can’t skip a bolt…. The Flush valve in the center is bolted to the tank and sealed to it w a nut and internal gasket, first, away from the bowl. Then a large foam gasket seals the flush valve (now attached to the tank) and the tank to the bowl w 2 or 3 bolts , depending on your particular toilet.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you! I've seen some video tutorials on YT add a rubber washer above the metal washer where the 2nd nut is located in a 3-bolt setup. I assume that is not correct since I see you didn't add one in your video. Another question, my toilet bowl has 3 small rubber 'seats' along the rim where the tank sits on. They are removable, and frankly probably need replacing since they're brittle now. Do I need new ones, or can I do without? Thanks again! Subbed btw. Edit: I guess the small rubber 'seats' are actually called channel pads. Some have called them shims or spacers.
@@mattlewis4972 In tank to bowl kits they don’t give you enough rubber washers to put one on the bottom of the tank. The actual seal in the only one that is going to work properly is the one inside the tank, bolt, rubber, China. The other rubber washer that comes in a bolt kit is used underneath the bowl for the wing that tightens the tank assembly to the bowl. The Spacers take the wiggle out of the tank to bowl. Not a bad idea although most toilets don’t have them. I have used vinyl tubing, probably quarter inch OD, and cut little pieces and place them on top of the bowl to assist the tank from wiggling. If they are too thick they will prevent the foam center flush valve gasket from seating properly so be careful as you do this.
Still don't understand how metal washer in tank causes a leak if rubber washer is the final sealant inside tank? Does the metal one cause the rubber washer to not seal properly??
The water flows between the metal washer and the metal head of the screw until it reaches the threads to the screw and then drains down to the screw out the bottom.
@@MrHardware1 They still need to be replaced, eventually. Replacement, and, dealing with the challenges of getting a watertight seal would be eliminated if they weren't under water. I just replaced both, (brass), because the right one started dripping... and now the left one is dripping.
@@NedSpindle if the bolts aren’t solid brass or if someone puts a metal washer in the tank are the only issues preventing this job from lasting 30 years.
Thank you! This guy is the only one that gets it right. That was a big help!
Thanks! You saved me a bundle of cash by helping me fix my own toilet. Showing the part number was a HUGE help!
Just updated and it's been dry for 22 hours now! YEA, it worked as described!
Thank you so much, had the washer inside the tank, installed it like you said and no more leaks.
You mean the metal washer right? The rubber one is also called a washer? Just for clarification but get what you mean lol
Thanks so much!!! We just bought new toilets (American Standard) and I can't believe this type of system doesn't come standard with new toilets. It's ridiculous to expect a tight seal to be made from a nut that tightens the toilet bowl to the tank. When it leaks, I don't know if it's because it's too loose or I cracked the thing from over tightening.
Having the tank alone be water-tight sealed should be the standard, and then just secure the tank to the bowl. Genius.
Thank you so much for your video. I had a persistent slow leak to the floor until I followed your advice and removed the two washers from inside the tank. Great tip!
I like when you show it in real time not with the editing, I don't wanna miss a thing
AH->MAZING !!!!!!! Thank you SO much for this video and the one about attaching the bowl to the toilet. WOW. My husband struggled for H O U R S.... trying to find out WHY the tank was leaking out the back bolt (we have a 3-hole pattern). NOTHING he did worked. We even bought a second kit to see if the first was faulty. Then, I had had enough and went to youtube. Found YOUR video and WALA !!!! We did what you showed, exactly how you showed - and at 9pm TOILET restored !!! Now, keep this in mind when you formulate your reaction: We are a household of 5 - with only 1 of that 5 being a male, and with 2 of that 5 being toddler girls learning to potty train - and only 1 - ONE - bathroom in our tiny home. A DAY without a toilet was AWFUL. Thank you. SOOO much for doing these videos.
You made my day! I’m glad I was able to help
What was the fix? Remove metal washer from inside tank??
Blair, I want to thank you for the inside tank info on the bolt to rubber seal to china. The directions say otherwise and I was having drips of water but now is all good again. Thank you!
Lot of videos on yt that showing less than accurate information. I have been struggling with leaking bolts. I have followed the advice here, and one hour after that - no leaks. Fingers crossed...but I am much more hopeful. Thanks Mr.Hardware!
After taking tank on and off 4 times and replacing tank seals and changing out the flush valve 3 times I can't believe it's the tank bolts all along 😑 this video gives me confidence I'm only going to have to do this repair 1 more time. Thanks!
EXCELLENT information. I just did this and makes so much more sense the way you explained.
Bro, you the man. This is the best video explaining this and showing how to do it. 👍✌️
Great video. Viewed on Jan.19, 2024. Great job of explaining why!! Thank you
Thank you for sharing your video and explaining the sequence to repair and where to put the metal washers and rubber seals on.
Thanks Blair! Spot on to fix the issue with our Koehler toilet. Great video!
Mr. Hardware....thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience
Most awesome info ever needed. thanks for that and keep up the good work.
Metal - rubber - ceramic. Thanks! Once I heard that, it gave me the confidence to move forward. The old one was a rubber washer with a stem on it that I could not pull out. So I just kept cutting off rubber until I had a nice contact with the ceramic showing.. Thanks!
Big thanks, didn't occur to me it could leak between the metal washer and bolt with the rubber washer in place, but makes sense when you described it.
Thank You, I finally fixed it thanks to your video!
Thankyou actually use to put them with washer inside ,will be changing my ways 🙏🏻
HIlarious. had an old uncle do it at my house. exact same thing happened. Now i gotta fix it. Thanks for the great vid.
Thank you! So help me I am going to fix the leaky basement toilet!! Thank you so much!
Why no rubber washer at bottom of tank? Other vids show rubber washer metal washer and then nut. I guess i ll find out if it leaks again.
The number one seal is inside the tank where the metal headed the screw is sealed against the china. Any other washers will not make that seal any better.
Thank you, will try. I've been using the metal washer inside the tank with the rubber washer and can't get the drip stopped. Will try your method today.
Did that fix it? Other videos put metal washer inside too but don't see how that causes leak as it's rubber to china on inside.
@@rogerh2694 Absolutely it did fix it!
@@rogerh2694 The problem is there's no waterproof seal between the metal washer and the bolt head. Water gets between them and makes its way to the threads, and leaks down them to the outside, bypassing the rubber washer entirely.
2:08 well that was my problem. The instructions on the kit I bought said to use metal washer as well in tank, but when I did bolt rubber china it looks good so far
So when the bolts rust how would you saw that one in the middle.
@@jazziez6467 sometimes I use a drill on the inside and starting with a 1/8 I worked my way up to a quarter inch bit and after I go through the brass head, sometimes I can drill the head right off the screw without getting underneath the tank. Another slick way is with a Dremel with a cut off wheel from underneath. You need glasses and you gotta lay on your back but you can get in there and cut away at that nut and that’ll come off pretty quick with that Dremel.
This is the second one for the basement bat. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
what is that black residue at the bottom of the tank?
@@networkguy993 I would guess that it is solids from the water as it is held in the tank. The solids settle the bottom of the tank.
Thanks for the video. I just took my toilet apart and the washer that was being used actually went through the tank and wasn’t a flat washer. I mean it was flat but part of fit around the bolt as it went through the tank. It was hard to tell in your video but I think it was like the one you took out. I can’t seem to find these exact washers anywhere. Can I just use a use a regular flat washer?
The toilet tank bolt washers are softer, a bit more pliable. They should be sold at any hardware or big box store….. you may have to buy a kit w/bolts, nuts and washers.
Tank bolt near fill valve still has a small leak. My gaskets don't pucker. Should I get different gaskets? TIA
If the gasket on the fill valve in the tank is good and hopefully it’s not coming from there possibly the rubbers do dry out that seal inside the tank so if you’re able, you could replace them with no harm
I've got a toilet with three bolts. When I follow these directions, the nuts prevent the Tank from seating properly, ultimately leading to leaks. Any advice?
@@youssefelbahtimy either you need a thicker ‘tank to bowl’ gasket or don’t use the intermediate nuts. Mansfield uses a little thicker gasket….
@@MrHardware1 thanks, I doubled up on the gaskets in the tank, placed gasket then washer between tank and bowl, then washer and nut after the bowl. Probably overkill, but it worked. Thanks!
Thanks! Same problem. Package did not give me the "extra" washers and nuts, so need to purchase. Do not know why they want you to use one bolt to do two things; hold water in tank and hold tank to toilet base.
That’s how all tanks were attached to toilets back in the old days 1920s to 1950s. Can’t see why I just know that I like this method better.
Thank you. Just what I needed!
brilliant. thanks. i made the mistake of the metal washer on top of rubber washer inside the tank.
Cus other videos put metal washer inside lol and of course we follow like sheeps. Did you pur a rubber washer on outside tank too? Guessing that's to protect the china from the nut.
Which is better sealer, rubber or polypropelene?
I believe rubber as I know they usually last over 30 years in a tank, but I’m no expert on poly….
Great video, thank you so much help me with exactly what I needed!
You saved my day! Thank you.
Riddle me this... Have you ever seen where the tank holes are too big? I've done a thousand toilets and just came across one that was leaking and the tank holes are so big that I have to try to center the gasket. Even after the fact it's still leaks.
@@futuregamer5791 no I haven’t. Sounds like you need an oversized truss headed brass bolt, w/washers to match. Get a new toilet, it should be guaranteed…
Can I use a rubber washer/metal washer combo on the bottom of the tank? Should I? Or should it be just a nut and a metal washer? If so why? Thanks for your time.
The seal is made in the tank, rubber underneath is not necessarily and creates a little more ‘play’ in the bolt that is not a good thing.
Thank you. @@MrHardware1
Never put metal to porcelain
@@HarveyWallbanger-ho2cq only when rubber is on the other side! It’s been done like this since the 1940’s.
Hi. If I understand correctly, the tank's stability to the bowl (meaning less rocking) comes mainly from the bolt heads inside the tank and the nuts underneath the bowl. So what exactly is the middle nut and washer between the tank and bowl contributing? Is it to add more stability? Or is it to add more leak-proofing? Or a little of both? And why is this nut and washer combo absent in this location in many toilet setups? Thanks.
Some toilets are 2 bolt and some are 3 bolt (Mansfield and old American Standard) (which have more stable tanks, not that it is a big issue) You can’t skip a bolt….
The Flush valve in the center is bolted to the tank and sealed to it w a nut and internal gasket, first, away from the bowl. Then a large foam gasket seals the flush valve (now attached to the tank) and the tank to the bowl w 2 or 3 bolts , depending on your particular toilet.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you! I've seen some video tutorials on YT add a rubber washer above the metal washer where the 2nd nut is located in a 3-bolt setup. I assume that is not correct since I see you didn't add one in your video. Another question, my toilet bowl has 3 small rubber 'seats' along the rim where the tank sits on. They are removable, and frankly probably need replacing since they're brittle now. Do I need new ones, or can I do without? Thanks again! Subbed btw. Edit: I guess the small rubber 'seats' are actually called channel pads. Some have called them shims or spacers.
@@mattlewis4972 In tank to bowl kits they don’t give you enough rubber washers to put one on the bottom of the tank. The actual seal in the only one that is going to work properly is the one inside the tank, bolt, rubber, China. The other rubber washer that comes in a bolt kit is used underneath the bowl for the wing that tightens the tank assembly to the bowl.
The Spacers take the wiggle out of the tank to bowl. Not a bad idea although most toilets don’t have them. I have used vinyl tubing, probably quarter inch OD, and cut little pieces and place them on top of the bowl to assist the tank from wiggling. If they are too thick they will prevent the foam center flush valve gasket from seating properly so be careful as you do this.
Hello, have a toilet tank with 4 bolts, what kind of flush valve is used.
That is an old toilet (more than one manufacture) and typically uses a standard 2” flush valve.
Thank you
Thank you Mr Hardware...
I just swapped the guts and bolts and the drips were worse... instructions told me the additional hex nuts were optional 🤦♀️
@@ashleyconnelly5184 not in my book. Rubber ONLY in the tank, tighten the ‘sub nuts’ just until the rubber in the tank puckers slightly.
Still don't understand how metal washer in tank causes a leak if rubber washer is the final sealant inside tank? Does the metal one cause the rubber washer to not seal properly??
The water flows between the metal washer and the metal head of the screw until it reaches the threads to the screw and then drains down to the screw out the bottom.
Exactly what I needed! 😊
Clear. Concise. Thank you!
Thanks for repeating this important information.
Thank you , we did it 2 girls 💃🏾💃🏾
Thank you very much
Thanks a bunch!
I wish Uncle Larry would quit rocking the bowl.
😂😂
I am uncle larry
Thank You
Mine is still leaking
Spot on!! Thanks!!!
Thank you!
Thanks
Genius Man
I used to use water putty around the bolts. This is a better way.
20 minutes my ass when the bolts are rusted together lol saw them off hahah that was a wrestling match for two days 😂
Whydehell you got the toilet on the kitchen table. Caca
Maybe I don’t have a work bench
@@MrHardware1 I'm joking. Gotta do this tonight after work, girl sent leak pics. Thanks for the vid.
get a motion stabilized camera
Has any super-genius invented a toilet that attaches the tank to the toilet without bolts that are UNDER WATER?
If they are solid brass it should not be a problem.
@@MrHardware1 They still need to be replaced, eventually. Replacement, and, dealing with the challenges of getting a watertight seal would be eliminated if they weren't under water. I just replaced both, (brass), because the right one started dripping... and now the left one is dripping.
@@NedSpindle if the bolts aren’t solid brass or if someone puts a metal washer in the tank are the only issues preventing this job from lasting 30 years.
THATS IT!!! I wiggled it. . . I guess. . . Accidentally!😥
One thing I tell content creators...take their auto-focus off and manually focus. It's annoying to watch the out-of-focus delay.
Thank you