Thank you! Thank you! I’ve have been watching videos on how to do this and all the other videos said to put washer in tank water with the screw head first washer second. I’ve taken my tank apart 3 time’s now (I’m a 66 yr old widow). It leaked every time. Then I watched your video and took the washer out of the tank…It’s not leaking anymore!!
Bought a new tank bolt replacement kit and directions said to put metal washer inside tank then put the rubber washer on under it and it was leaking like crazy, was sitting there for hours trying to figure out what I did wrong. Saw this video and put the rubber washer only on the inside and followed the same steps in this video and no more leaks!!! Thank you so much Mr. Hardware
Im about to try this. I have mounted toilet tanks before but I just used three different gaskets and it still leaks. I did use the metal washers on the inside, hope that was the issue.
Oh wow! Thank you so much! I have a toto Drake 2 piece toilet. It’s 20 years old. The original installer only put 2 rubber washers with bolts inside tank and only a metal washer with a nut to hold it outside the tank. It wasn’t leaking, but I had to remove the tank to put in a new flush valve that failed.
Thank you for this important information!!! I put my new kit in wrong and redid it 4 or 5 times only to still have leaks😡 Thank God I found your video and solved the problem in 10 minutes!! You are the man!
Thank you. This was VERY HELPFUL. The way you explain things is PERFECT! So clear & informative. I just replaced leaking bolts and a cracked tank based on your videos. 👍👍👍🤗
I bought a replacement set of valves to deal with a slow leak. Followed the instructions in the package twice and it leaked both times. Putting the second washer and nut on the tank itself solved the problem. Thank you!!!
THANK YOU!! After replacing my tank bolts the wrong way because I followed a different video, my tank was still leaking. I found your video and it made sense about the metal washers. I did it all over, following your directions and my floor is dry!
Looked up this vdo because the instructions on the ACE hardware tank to bowl kit were incorrect with a diagram to match the text. Thx for posting this.
Thank you, new subscriber. I bought a flowmaster kit and the tank leaked upon reinstalling. I did brass rubber china as you said and it doesn’t leak now. It was an old Crane toilet. Thanks again
Many thanks Mr. Hardware. At first I followed the Hardware store package instructions with Leaks. The Sub-Nut system works, and I as an engineer fully understand why it does. Excellent explanations!!!!!! PS: Note on disassembly of the old hardware I had to use a small torch to loosen a nut that was extremely stubborn with success. Next time I start a mini home project I will check Mr. Hardware first :)
Yes. The wing nuts definitely give a better feel. I noticed that even with small washers in the tank previously that there weren't any leaks using wing nuts. Used six washers and gaskets without a problem--three on each side. Some Toto replacement bolt kits come with wing nuts, others no. Thanks.
I was always taught to never have metal to porcelain, that's why there's two rubber washers and a plastic washer with each bolt in the repair kit. Maybe it's different in the States. But, a great short informative clip without all the fluff and flannel.
Here's a couple tips I learned from my DIY repair. 1. My bolt head was so rusted the head broke apart. Vice grips couldn't hold what was left of the bolt head. I used a universal socket and it turned instantly. Much faster than sawing the bolt off. 2. Some videos show a special tool for the large plastic tank drain nut. Waste of money for such a rare repair. I used a rubber belt wrench.
The manufacturer of those kits changes every year or two. So call the hardware store at 586-776-9532 and ask for Danial and he will be able to ship you a set of either two or three bolts as there’s two kinds of toilet tanks.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you for your response. I appreciate your willingness to help. I ordered two different styles from Amazon. The main difference between the two styles is that one secures the bolt directly to the tank and also a second nut that connects the tank to the bowl. The other style that claims to be the American Standard OEM part only has one connection for the tank to the bowl. For the style that you recommend that has two points of attachment to the bolt, have you found that there are any issues with the amount of clearance between the tank and the bowl in order to clear the first set of nuts and washers? Currently my toilets have very little clearance. Thanks for your help and I hope to hear back from you.
@@sydneym.778 I like the kit with the sub-nut because it allows me to make the bolts water tight the tank before I put it onto the bowl. That nut has always fit for me, it is quire thin.
Instead of placing the second rubber washer below the seat, I have seen other videos where they place the second rubber washer below the tank itself, followed by the metal washer, then the nut. This means that the tank would be cushioned between two rubber washers, one inside the tank, and one directly below it. Just sayin....
I have no leaks yet a "phantom flush" every 10 -15 minutes now and it's not the flapper valve as I have tried several. Bowl capacity is about an inch under. It's not a deal breaker but it's a mystery. 😮
@@Jahmas001 I hate to tell you the phantom flush is the flapper…. If not through the flush valve (flapper) where can the water be going? Put some food coloring in the tank and if it leaks into the bowl there’s the proof. Maybe you are one of the few that need to pull the tank and replace the flush valve.
I don't understand why it's not recommended to put a rubber washer on the inside AND outside of the tank. My rubber seals inside the tank began to fail. A second washer outside the tank would have prevented this leak.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Instructions with the bolt kit are wrong. Yours are correct. You are the kind of person that makes UA-cam worthwhile. Many thanks!
Thanks. Instructions that came with the tank make no mention of "HOW". You were very helpful. Now I can go mop up the water from before...
Thank you! Thank you! I’ve have been watching videos on how to do this and all the other videos said to put washer in tank water with the screw head first washer second. I’ve taken my tank apart 3 time’s now (I’m a 66 yr old widow). It leaked every time. Then I watched your video and took the washer out of the tank…It’s not leaking anymore!!
Not only did this help, I discovered it was on wrong since I bought my house. No wonder it was always very wiggly. Thank you!
I can't thank you enough for the tutorial. I was able to do the repairs myself all because of you.
It's nice to see someone doing it right. There are a lot of vidoes out there that show people the wrong way of doing this.
Don't know why I bother reading directions from replacement parts not made in USA. Found video, followed video, no leaks. Thank you Blair.
Bought a new tank bolt replacement kit and directions said to put metal washer inside tank then put the rubber washer on under it and it was leaking like crazy, was sitting there for hours trying to figure out what I did wrong. Saw this video and put the rubber washer only on the inside and followed the same steps in this video and no more leaks!!! Thank you so much Mr. Hardware
Im about to try this. I have mounted toilet tanks before but I just used three different gaskets and it still leaks. I did use the metal washers on the inside, hope that was the issue.
Wow, thanks. Yep, metal washers in the tank, leaked twice, took them off and no leaks!!! thank you!!
Thanks! I learned about the sub-nut system for the first time.
You’ve literally just saved me some stress, anxiety, and a lot of money! Thank you so much!
Oh wow! Thank you so much! I have a toto Drake 2 piece toilet. It’s 20 years old. The original installer only put 2 rubber washers with bolts inside tank and only a metal washer with a nut to hold it outside the tank. It wasn’t leaking, but I had to remove the tank to put in a new flush valve that failed.
Hello. Thank you. I did just what you said amateurs do. In the tank, I added a metal gasket and it leaked. Now it is sealed. I appreciate you.
Thank you for this important information!!! I put my new kit in wrong and redid it 4 or 5 times only to still have leaks😡 Thank God I found your video and solved the problem in 10 minutes!! You are the man!
He knows what he’s doing I’ve tried the “amateur” ways and his way worked ! Great video
Thank you. This was VERY HELPFUL. The way you explain things is PERFECT! So clear & informative. I just replaced leaking bolts and a cracked tank based on your videos. 👍👍👍🤗
I bought a replacement set of valves to deal with a slow leak. Followed the instructions in the package twice and it leaked both times. Putting the second washer and nut on the tank itself solved the problem. Thank you!!!
Ahhhh, that's why there are two sets of nuts and washers for each bolt! Thank you!
This has been a simplified and stress-free tutorial. Thank you from women homeowners like me.
THANK YOU!! After replacing my tank bolts the wrong way because I followed a different video, my tank was still leaking. I found your video and it made sense about the metal washers. I did it all over, following your directions and my floor is dry!
Thank you! That seepy tank bolt thought it was going to defeat me, but your video showed me what I needed!
Looked up this vdo because the instructions on the ACE hardware tank to bowl kit were incorrect with a diagram to match the text. Thx for posting this.
Thank you, new subscriber. I bought a flowmaster kit and the tank leaked upon reinstalling. I did brass rubber china as you said and it doesn’t leak now. It was an old Crane toilet. Thanks again
Many thanks Mr. Hardware. At first I followed the Hardware store package instructions with Leaks. The Sub-Nut system works, and I as an engineer fully understand why it does. Excellent explanations!!!!!!
PS: Note on disassembly of the old hardware I had to use a small torch to loosen a nut that was extremely stubborn with success.
Next time I start a mini home project I will check Mr. Hardware first :)
Yes. The wing nuts definitely give a better feel. I noticed that even with small washers in the tank previously that there weren't any leaks using wing nuts. Used six washers and gaskets without a problem--three on each side. Some Toto replacement bolt kits come with wing nuts, others no. Thanks.
Thanks for the perfect tutorial. Simple and to the point. I put you in my favorites.
Thanks for this video. Now I can fix my tank that is leaning forward.
I was always taught to never have metal to porcelain, that's why there's two rubber washers and a plastic washer with each bolt in the repair kit. Maybe it's different in the States. But, a great short informative clip without all the fluff and flannel.
You helped me greatly. Appreciate the vid, detailed description with tips like no washer in bowl!!!
Life saver! After several hours of dripping and trial and error your tutorial gave me the wisdom to fix my toilet properly. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your video. It really needs to be the top video on this.
really helpful Blair. Thank you for the very useful (and concise) video! 👍
This actually helped to fix our leaky toilet!
Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Blair! Helped a lot
Thank you Mr. Hardware!
This is incredibly helpful.
Thank you sir....your video just saved my day !!!! Merci beaucoup !!!!
Here's a couple tips I learned from my DIY repair.
1. My bolt head was so rusted the head broke apart. Vice grips couldn't hold what was left of the bolt head. I used a universal socket and it turned instantly. Much faster than sawing the bolt off.
2. Some videos show a special tool for the large plastic tank drain nut. Waste of money for such a rare repair. I used a rubber belt wrench.
Awesome demonstration...after I placed my bolts it was still leaking from the bolts...I did it completely wrong....I will do it again..Thank you
Thanks for the vid, it helped me out
Thanks, this was very helpful!
Great tip, thanks for the video.
thank you!!! I'm on my 4th day trying to fix my dad's toilet.
Awesome video!!!
excellent vid. Thank you!
Very helpful, thank you
Thank you!
Very smart, thanks !
Quality content! Thank you!
I fell like I owe you money now. If I would've watched your video I could've saved an entire days worth of needless work and frustration
Thank you 🙏🏽
Could you please provide a link to that product? Thanks for the video. It was very informative and answered a lot of my questions.
The manufacturer of those kits changes every year or two. So call the hardware store at 586-776-9532 and ask for Danial and he will be able to ship you a set of either two or three bolts as there’s two kinds of toilet tanks.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you for your response. I appreciate your willingness to help. I ordered two different styles from Amazon. The main difference between the two styles is that one secures the bolt directly to the tank and also a second nut that connects the tank to the bowl. The other style that claims to be the American Standard OEM part only has one connection for the tank to the bowl. For the style that you recommend that has two points of attachment to the bolt, have you found that there are any issues with the amount of clearance between the tank and the bowl in order to clear the first set of nuts and washers? Currently my toilets have very little clearance. Thanks for your help and I hope to hear back from you.
@@sydneym.778 I like the kit with the sub-nut because it allows me to make the bolts water tight the tank before I put it onto the bowl. That nut has always fit for me, it is quire thin.
@@MrHardware1 Okay, thanks Mr. Hardware. I appreciate your help.
Thank you
Thank you so much!
Great job 👏
Instead of placing the second rubber washer below the seat, I have seen other videos where they place the second rubber washer below the tank itself, followed by the metal washer, then the nut. This means that the tank would be cushioned between two rubber washers, one inside the tank, and one directly below it. Just sayin....
Thank you
What is the best way to clean the black worn out rubber washer stain from hands.
Oil.
Elbow grease, or if unavailable, Dawn soap.
This saved me
What size are the hex nuts, are they standard for Briggs 7421?
thank you!!!!!
I have no leaks yet a "phantom flush" every 10 -15 minutes now and it's not the flapper valve as I have tried several. Bowl capacity is about an inch under. It's not a deal breaker but it's a mystery. 😮
@@Jahmas001 I hate to tell you the phantom flush is the flapper…. If not through the flush valve (flapper) where can the water be going? Put some food coloring in the tank and if it leaks into the bowl there’s the proof. Maybe you are one of the few that need to pull the tank and replace the flush valve.
I see my problem, washers in the tank. This is kicking my butt.
Metal rubber china?
The reason you don't need a metal washer inside the tank is because the bolt has a pan head to press down evenly on a rubber washer.
After 4 times of trying different sequences, and every time it leaked...i tried this sequence and unfortunately it STILL LEAKED.
I don't understand why it's not recommended to put a rubber washer on the inside AND outside of the tank. My rubber seals inside the tank began to fail. A second washer outside the tank would have prevented this leak.
Not actually, the water needs the flat head of the bolt to seal. The bottom washer will leak water through the threads of the bolt.
Why not do it on an actual connection where water is present.
Screw fix toilet
This dude has has a few drinks in his day.
Shitbags like you need to be 6 feet under.
Simple enough...IF the manufacturers had any common sense and included the right kind of goddamn parts that made the repair easy...like thicker nuts.
this helped a lot, it was really hard to turn as the washer kept causing the bolt to spin with the nut, and the instructions were wrong
Very good! Thanks!
Thank You!