I know it's a longtime ago but it could help us if in the future use a Lazer pen too point at which bolts or any parts .you may be the only one on UA-cam to do so ! You May gain more support for your chanel 😇
i'm about to try to fit my 6 puck ebay clutch and i'll be referencing this vid as i go, as i did with your ms3x diy build. very informative videos, keep up the good work :)
Thanks man seems pretty easy to do lot easier then takin out the whole engine just to put in a new aftermarket clutch kit did a good job man now I'm do the same thing for my 90's miata
Thanks tackling this job this weekend and my first time doing a clutch job and you video was awesome thanks VERY DEATAILED AND GREAT CAMERA AND LIGHTNING
Hey there! Quick question, I'm ordering the same complete kit from 949/SuperMiata. Did your lightweight flywheel come with the new pilot bearing? Unfortunately my replacement engine did not come with anything on the rear end of the engine. Just want to be sure I have that ordered in time for the install. Amazing video, btw! Thanks for taking your time to show all of this.
It's been perfect. I was shopping the same options, ended up with sm mostly because I respect Emilio over there but partly due to some reports of occasional quality control problems with the fm1. That could be user error of course. I followed the break in period completely and I've been loving it and the lightened flywheel.
Clutch installed. I got the jerkiness you mentioned in a previous comment. It’s nearly gone after 120 miles - reverse is still rough. I never got break in instructions though. I assumed take it easy for 500 city miles. Also i wanted to compare general clutch pedal feel. My pedal weight feels very close to my previous clutch - pretty light. Also in terms of engagement point it starts to lightly grab at about 1/4 way up with a relatively wide engagement range and fully grabbing at about 4/5ths of the way up. Do these align with your experience?
I like coming from the underside because you can use an impact on it but even with hand tools, a couple of extensions and you can reach right up there with no problem.
Putting the trans back in is the most fucked thing I’ve ever tried. For some reason it doesn’t want to marry back to the bell housing. All t bolts go in except for the starter bolts and I’m so lost as to why every other bolt is flush to the trans but the starter bolts won’t even catch threads. So pissed so annoyed.
Yeah I feel ya. Make sure the bell housing is really close to seated flush before tightening any bolts. If you use the bolts to draw it in then the shaft may be going in crooked. If it's within a quarter inch that's fine but not way out. You can jack the front of the engine lightly to tilt it back and that can help get it to slide in straight.
@@OGPedXing I think that might be my problem because when I first marry them without bolts the bottom is flush but the top isn’t and slowly the top becomes flush once I started screwing the bolts in. So I should take all the bolts out, raise the front of the engine by the oil pan? And then take the trans out and try re installing it again so it slides in straight?
@@Onewiththesauce8 if it's mostly in, you can also try supporting the back of the trans as you slide it forward. Sometimes you need to rotate the drive shaft slightly to get it to line up or you can also put a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the engine side. Usually just a small rotation is all that's needed to get the splines to line up.
The top two bolts are symmetrical at the top of the bell housing. Some people have better luck getting to that one from the top through the engine bay. For me it was good with a couple of extensions and a swivel joint...you can just barely see it from the bottom if your head is positioned on the passenger side of the trans and back a bit, about where the speedo cable would go.
Yeah even a low lift like a quickjack would've have been amazing. Actually truck style jack stands would've been better, 6 more inches would have helped. But the trans Jack was great, I recommend that (harbor freight).
Yes, if you are doing an engine swap, you can unbolt the bell housing only, yank the engine and replace while leaving the trans in place. It can be a little finicky getting the trans spindle to seat in the clutch pilot bearing and such but it is doable.
I know it's a longtime ago but it could help us if in the future use a Lazer pen too point at which bolts or any parts .you may be the only one on UA-cam to do so ! You May gain more support for your chanel 😇
Super helpful! Awesome to see an in-depth guide without using a 4 point lift. Planning on tackling the same job soon. Thank you again!
i'm about to try to fit my 6 puck ebay clutch and i'll be referencing this vid as i go, as i did with your ms3x diy build. very informative videos, keep up the good work :)
So grateful for this video. One of the best on YT. I couldn't have changed my clutch without it.
Thanks man seems pretty easy to do lot easier then takin out the whole engine just to put in a new aftermarket clutch kit did a good job man now I'm do the same thing for my 90's miata
Thanks tackling this job this weekend and my first time doing a clutch job and you video was awesome thanks VERY DEATAILED AND GREAT CAMERA AND LIGHTNING
Badass video. Lots of insight.
This is so helpful, thank you!!!
Hey there! Quick question, I'm ordering the same complete kit from 949/SuperMiata. Did your lightweight flywheel come with the new pilot bearing? Unfortunately my replacement engine did not come with anything on the rear end of the engine. Just want to be sure I have that ordered in time for the install. Amazing video, btw! Thanks for taking your time to show all of this.
I want to say it did....don't quite remember, but I also don't recall ordering the pilot bearing separately. So I think it was included.
It’s not mentioned in the video but did you have to adjust your clutch pedal so it fully engages/disengages?
Oh, I thought I did. Nope! No adjustment required!
How are you liking the clutch? I’m debating between FM1 and the SM organic for a 1.8NA that will eventually be turbod on stock internals. Thoughts?
It's been perfect. I was shopping the same options, ended up with sm mostly because I respect Emilio over there but partly due to some reports of occasional quality control problems with the fm1. That could be user error of course. I followed the break in period completely and I've been loving it and the lightened flywheel.
OGPedXing awesome. tx for the quick reply. Seems like that’s all ive been hearing. I guess i know what im going to order now 👍🏼
Clutch installed. I got the jerkiness you mentioned in a previous comment. It’s nearly gone after 120 miles - reverse is still rough. I never got break in instructions though. I assumed take it easy for 500 city miles. Also i wanted to compare general clutch pedal feel. My pedal weight feels very close to my previous clutch - pretty light. Also in terms of engagement point it starts to lightly grab at about 1/4 way up with a relatively wide engagement range and fully grabbing at about 4/5ths of the way up. Do these align with your experience?
Be interesting to know if you get any judder at all in first and reverse?...
For me in those gears it's just a bit different due to the light flywheel. A little jerky at times until I drove it more. No problems now.
am I the only one that removes the very top bell housing bolts from the engine bay?
I like coming from the underside because you can use an impact on it but even with hand tools, a couple of extensions and you can reach right up there with no problem.
Putting the trans back in is the most fucked thing I’ve ever tried. For some reason it doesn’t want to marry back to the bell housing. All t bolts go in except for the starter bolts and I’m so lost as to why every other bolt is flush to the trans but the starter bolts won’t even catch threads. So pissed so annoyed.
Yeah I feel ya. Make sure the bell housing is really close to seated flush before tightening any bolts. If you use the bolts to draw it in then the shaft may be going in crooked. If it's within a quarter inch that's fine but not way out. You can jack the front of the engine lightly to tilt it back and that can help get it to slide in straight.
@@OGPedXing I think that might be my problem because when I first marry them without bolts the bottom is flush but the top isn’t and slowly the top becomes flush once I started screwing the bolts in. So I should take all the bolts out, raise the front of the engine by the oil pan? And then take the trans out and try re installing it again so it slides in straight?
@@Onewiththesauce8 if it's mostly in, you can also try supporting the back of the trans as you slide it forward. Sometimes you need to rotate the drive shaft slightly to get it to line up or you can also put a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the engine side. Usually just a small rotation is all that's needed to get the splines to line up.
Where is the top passenger bolt we can’t find it?
The top two bolts are symmetrical at the top of the bell housing. Some people have better luck getting to that one from the top through the engine bay. For me it was good with a couple of extensions and a swivel joint...you can just barely see it from the bottom if your head is positioned on the passenger side of the trans and back a bit, about where the speedo cable would go.
Did this a month or so back, took two days, all went smoothly though, lucky enough to use a pit,, must have been a bitch using just ramps.
Yeah even a low lift like a quickjack would've have been amazing. Actually truck style jack stands would've been better, 6 more inches would have helped. But the trans Jack was great, I recommend that (harbor freight).
But I do have an engine 1.8l manual that I can jus swap onto without taking the transmission out
Yes, if you are doing an engine swap, you can unbolt the bell housing only, yank the engine and replace while leaving the trans in place. It can be a little finicky getting the trans spindle to seat in the clutch pilot bearing and such but it is doable.