You are so right! Fear is the worst thing and panic is your enemy, keeping calm is the key and be ready to drop your loader. I have been working on very steep ground this year and I have slowly learned just how far you can go but you always have to think ahead and be ready.
Excellent lesson today. Your comment about keeping the load low and dropping the load ASAP if you feel tipsy is spot on. Great information for new tractor operators and even experienced operators that may not have gotten into that situation yet. Katriel, I'm with you with snakes. They aren't my favorite either. Lol
I enjoy your approach to operating a tractor! There's no acting like a "know it all", a learn as you go with a strong lean to common sense. Last winter I bought a small garden tractor, mainly to plow snow and save my back. I even used the plow as a dozer blade this Spring to open a drainage ditch that gets filled by the sander trucks. It also has cut my mowing time from 2.5 hours with a self propelled walk behind mower to about 25 minutes! ( I have two small but hilly yards to mow)
Sounds to me like a great reason to buy another truck and trailer! One for the tractor, loaded with all the necessary ballast - and the other for all the attachments! Great video!
Definitely see why you need Balast Tim. That tractor is a monster. Thanks for sharing with us. Lessons learned, get ballasts if you are going to work a Loader.
Hi Tim, for those of us that have ran equipment out whole lives this doesnt apply much but you are doing a huge service for people that have not ran much equipment by showing these things . Keep doing what your doing !!!!!
If you ever wanna cross that 26,001 lb threshold let me know I just passed all my tests and would be willing to help you out on yours. It's not a big deal and opens up a whole new world of what you can towe .
Hey Tim, We widened the front wheelbase of our 5075e by flipping the rims and it makes a huge difference on side to side stability when using the loader. Might want to give it a shot!
Good video Tim! I have been learning about ballast and lack of ballast and how important it is on my little tractor. This helps to see that even on bigger tractors ballast is needed.
Talk to Heavy Hitch about an extension to attach to the three point to get the weights farther back so you can get more leverage from the same weights. It would also be better to have the weights out as wide as the tires to get more stability. I've seen a guy use a box blade, mount a 55 gallon drum on each end and fill them with water at a job site. Then he drains them for transport. That's 900 lbs of removable ballast in the water.
It seems that Johnny 5 has found some great places to work. He seems to be more suited for agricultural tasks. I would bet that he would be a great choice for rotary mowing ( A/C and cab) Thanks for the great videos.
I am quite amazed how stable my B series Kubota is with filled rear tires and my box blade attached. Full bucket of gravel or dirt is no problem. I didn’t think I would be able to do full buckets of the heavy material, but it proved me wrong!
I feel sorry for myself that I’m leaving this comment but it’s the reality of the world... Just found your videos and they’re always educational and delightful to watch. Thank you! As a city slicker with interests in law, finance, and politics it’s my knee jerk reaction to warn you about your t shirt. While it’s a tractor it resembles the infamous Pepe the frog. I just worry about internet trolls trying to harm this wonderful channel and your family. Something to consider in the next logo design.
Great information Tim. Another option not often mentioned in the manuals about ballast, is the more you can keep below the centerline of the axles the more side stability you have. Down side to that is obvious ground clearance.
I like the material in this video and have a couple of suggestions. I too have a 5000 series JD. As soon as I bought it, I widened the front and rear tires. I think that both front and rear are now at 96" outside-to-outside. That width still fits fine on my trailer when I have to move it on the road. FWIW, the change makes a huge difference in stability - perceived and real. The operator is also "tossed" less left-right. My second suggestion is to lower your 3 point. Just because you can lift it high doesn't mean you should. As with a load in the front, set the height low but high enough for clearance purposes. Again, you will have more stability.
What's funny is that the large tractor has the same little tool box as the 1025R. I laughed when I first got that, but use that little tool box all the time. Such a little thing, but is so helpful. Great video!
Nice video Tim. Nice that you show what else goes on besides planting and harvest. Maintaining the land is a full time job. Katriel you left out the Pucker factor on the lean of the tractor.
Haha, I went to move an IBC half full of water at work today, the tractor did not like it at all, granted all I had on the back was a box blade, but I almost rolled the tractor 😟 scary stuff man. Good thing I was following proper tractor operation and had the load close to the ground. I was able to drop my loader before I had a bad day.
Tim, I would really suggest putting ranch hand bumpers and a back window rack on your ford. It helps a lot with protection and it looks really cool too. Especially when pulling a gooseneck like yours.
We ended up using the wheel weights on the 5320 at the tree farm, because we run self-sealer in the tires, and you can't do both. Too many shed deer antlers and stuff around, and you can't see them in the woods.
I've got a 6320 and it amazes me how easy the rear end gets light. The tires have some sort of fluid that I'm guessing came from the dealer or factory when it was new. I need to get a shop to check and see if more can be added
If your not getting the rear wheels off the ground you're not working hard enough!😉 Seriously it's a good video on ballast, it pays to set your tractor up correctly to get the most out of it. Mine is loaded with rim guard plus a ballast box or box blade that is mounted to my quick hitch to move it back as far as possible.
Instead of investing in a bunch of weights for the tractor, get a three point to front loader adapter, and a double throw hydraulic top cylinder for the rear. When using a grapple, move the bucket to the rear, and even fill it with dirt if extra weight is needed. When using the bucket up front, have the grapple on the back. This way you get better use of your implements, and you can even move material with both the grapple and bucket at the same time.
Tim since the 5075 is at the upper end of your weight range and these are all on a "lease" type plan have you considered downsizing to a large 4 series? Something like the 4066R. I think lift capacity is around 2500lbs, cab option, only cat1 3pt though. You could probably load the tires, put on the HH or heavy rear implements and still haul it on your current truck and trailer setup.
Wondering if you can you lower that ballast a bit? Call me chicken but I only do 1/2 bucket loads and leave the brush hog mower on back. A couple of extra hours to sniff the diesel fumes is fine by me.
Watching your videos on ballast. I hot my new Johnny. Got the backhoe front loader and a grapple for the front. So far I have no attachments for the back. Well so far. My question is what do I need for the back? Do I need a heavy hitch weight bracket plus the weights and that quick attach that goes on the 3 point hitch that I haver never tried putting on. One reason why is I have nothing to put on the 3 point hitch. This is all new to me. Thanks for your help.
You can leave the backhoe on if you have no need to remove. If you remove the backhoe, you need the hh weight bracket and weights. The quick attach is optional.
I have a custom weight bracket made for my 2320. It consists of the bracket, which is made for a hitch receiver, and the weight. In total I would estimate it to be about 350lbs for the weight plus another 20 in the mount.
Tim seems like your sure having fun learning all these tractors 🚜 I know I’d be advertising like crazy to get jobs . Have you tried the let go app ? It’s been good to me Craigslist is good just a pain updating all The time ! Love the channel welcome back katriel
We haven't needed to advertise this year. We still have jobs from April that we have not been able to do (due to weather). Also, we are so busy here at home, we don't have time for many projects. We are hoping that we will be settled in by this winter. Would be nice to have the shed in a state where it can be heated.
If you have the rear 3pt lift capacity I have an Easy Mass 4000 pound rear weight you can have for $400.00 if you want to come to Longview Texas and pick it up.Good video explaining rear ballast btw. I made my own 1500# ballast box for my TC 55 with loader.Just barely the right size.
When I bought my 5075E I thought the exact same thing. Big loader on a smaller tractor, mine did come with the rear wheel weights but I’m still thinking about filling the rear tires with fluid also. Also for some reason the ride on it does seem really rough, and the loader seems kinda jerky. Guess I still need some time with it. Also I am thinking about setting the tires to wider position, I think that would help cause with them set in it feels a little more unstable. Great video
Moving the weight father back lessons the weight needed. The short tractor frame causes issues. If the front axle was closer to the bucket it would also take less weight, but that is much more complicated than moving the ballast back
Tim, I have a solution to your ballast issue and approaching your GCWR. Just buy another truck and have the finance committee follow you with the other truck and trailer with Johnny loaded up. Then, when you get to your destination, strap Johnny to the 3pt as the ballast! See easy!
I just don't understand why anyone would question your ability to operate your tractors. If they feel like they are about to tip over, then back off the operation and try again another way. Do you thing and don't worry about the safety sally's. Love your video's !
Interesting how you can sit that grapple down upright. I have one and I have to open it and set it down fully open and tilted down. If not, it will fall over.
Great video I'm am a new owner of the 5055E, have had issues with tures off the ground. This is very dangerous. My first bucket of pig muck took me off the ground, I was nit on level ground. I did have all tures filled prior to delivery $$$ well spent in my opinion. Rear ballast box is next. Also did u add the buddy seat or dealer install? Part #'s if possible. Thank's Jack
@@TractorTimewithTim I have since come to find out the dealer only filled my rear tires at about 40% of recommended ballast. This mistake could have been deadly. Also my tires weren't placed in the outermost position at 72 inches on center as per Loader manual. They were at 591/2... Dealer will GIVE me a BW15852 Large ballast box free of charge, put my tractor on the scales and get this all figured out.
Yea, you need to finish filling the tires. Even so, be careful about passing the blame. The dealer cannot protect you from all aspects of inexperience. You must recognize the limitations of your machine. Take your time, don’t get full buckets, etc until you become more comfortable with the limits of your tractor.
If ya have a large area to work just throw your biggest attachment on and ya don’t have to mess around with those weights which are a pain to mess with and of course ballast in the tires also . On heavy stuff for my compact JD 3320 I just throw my box blade on or for heavier stuff Ill throw my brush hog or tiller on . I think since it’s so long(brush hog) it puts a Lil weight so much farther out VS right behind tractor or my ABI TR3 arena drag which weighs about 600lbs or so . I think it’s physics since weight is farther back . That’s my 2 cents Anyways great video TTWT Ps: or a ballast box 📦 would be easy too
I've run a 5055e 4x4 for a few 100 hours and until we added water to rear tires it was just a nightmare to run. Always on the edge of rolling over when using the loader bucket on unlevel ground.
Tim, question.....Have you come close to tipping your 1025R over? If so, what was the incline and circumstances. I just bought a new 1025r and have been doing things around my property. My property has some nasty inclines that I wouldn’t want to get sidewise on. However even slight uneven ground makes me jittery.
Yes, I often encounter 'borderline' situations. This is common and expected with these 'top heavy' and narrow tractors. It isn't the amount of incline that defines how 'tipsy' the tractor might be. I've had instances on only slight inclines where the load is high, and the 'high side' wheel gets pitched upwards by the terrain. This can result in a tip-over. My suggestion is that you practice the recovery procedures....quick lowering of the bucket for quick recovery. Also, learn to detect potential dangers before you encounter them (avoid heavy loads held high, with fast travel, on rough terrain, etc). With time and experience, you can become more comfortable with your machine. Does this make sense?
You can build a concrete ballast box that should be around 3100 pounds you need you can buy 3 point pins and top link bracket set them into the wet concrete and boom very cheap rear ballast that you can load and unload easy to drop you're hauling weight
There is already a ditch along the edge of the trees. We just needed to force the water over to it. Yes, would be nice to get Casey in there to clean that up a bit.
great information video--and i spied what i think or thought was a new deck over trailer sitting in the back ground-ha! surprise-surprise-from the Andy Griffith show with Gomer.. lol
I just watched a long video on another channel. The host discussed why so many 1025r tractors are flipping over. The takeaway was that it was all due to operator error. Many commenters agreed as they are all expert operators and never make mistakes. The 1025r in the video is unballasted, other than liquid in the little rear tires. Nowhere in the video is ballast mentioned. None of the comments even mentioned ballast. Well there is one comment there now. I politely suggested that rim guard in the tires is not enough. The video maker replied that they don't use the 1025r for lifting all that often as they also have a 2032. I suspect it is unballasted as well. In any case, it only takes one small mistake to overturn an unballasted tractor
Yep. Ballast is incredibly important. Saying otherwise is irresponsible. For a 1025r, Rimguard is great...but insufficient. Even Rimguard plus wheel weights is not enough. The loader manual makes it clear that LOTS of rear ballast is required to make these tractors safe.
Tim, Did I read the chart correct? With both rear tires filled with rim guard, you would have 1480 pounds? If correct, why did you choose 1600 pounds of weights on the 3 point hitch? I've been told weight on tires and wheels is preferable over on the tractor. Less weight on the axle bearings, so less wear on them. Any thoughts?
Kevin, the loader requires much more than 1480 lbs on the axle. I described the two options in the episode. You’ll see in tomorrow’s episode that the 2000lb I have on the 3 pt is still not really enough.
Tractor Time with Tim I guess my real question was, would it not be cheaper and better to put the fluid in the tires at 1480 than buy 1500 lbs of John Deere weights? I'm pretty sure JD is pretty proud of their weights.
Fluid is cheaper, but not removable. I can remove the weights if I want to use a different attachment. Still, I would like to have both! A tractor is more functional if it is heavier.
Tim it's unfortunate you have to limit your tractor's ability due to weight restrictions. Do I see a larger truck and trailer combo coming soon on Truck & Trailer Tuesday? I doubt the budget committee would approve that, I know mine wouldn't.
When my b7100 Kubota was getting its PTO fixed I borrowed my Dad's (BX something or other) to load my gator with dirt I had dug when I built a new pond (1/2 acre) and fill some holes in our yard. While loading the gator I turned the BX Kubota over twice, the first time I had the bucket about a foot off the ground (little front tires), the second time the bucket was less than 2 inches off the ground. (poor design). The second time really was a surprise I had always been told that as long as the load was below the front axle it would not turn over. Surprise it did.
Not to make light of your ballast message, but at least you have a wide front end. I use to hear a lot of horror stories about tractors turning over because they had a single front wheel, or a V style 2 wheels and a narrow rear set. People didn't heed the warnings then either.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks Tim. A former coworker of mine is using his old compact utility John Deere for some commercial mowing jobs he has been getting. Business has been really good, several of his jobs are getting too big and time consuming for his current rotary mower but the compact utility he has is at its max so a 5 series may be in his future. Being able to get grass safe industrial tires will make upgrading easier. Again, thank you for replying, wish I could have met you when you came to the Farm Machinery Show in my hometown of Louisville.
Good stuff Tim. You know us old tractor hands can become complacent to and accidents will happen it never hurts to review. PS Tim have you been beaten the boys back off of that pretty girl of y'alls. If you need help call me I'm and old hand at runnin em off.
You are so right! Fear is the worst thing and panic is your enemy, keeping calm is the key and be ready to drop your loader. I have been working on very steep ground this year and I have slowly learned just how far you can go but you always have to think ahead and be ready.
Excellent lesson today. Your comment about keeping the load low and dropping the load ASAP if you feel tipsy is spot on. Great information for new tractor operators and even experienced operators that may not have gotten into that situation yet.
Katriel, I'm with you with snakes. They aren't my favorite either. Lol
I enjoy your approach to operating a tractor! There's no acting like a "know it all", a learn as you go with a strong lean to common sense. Last winter I bought a small garden tractor, mainly to plow snow and save my back. I even used the plow as a dozer blade this Spring to open a drainage ditch that gets filled by the sander trucks. It also has cut my mowing time from 2.5 hours with a self propelled walk behind mower to about 25 minutes! ( I have two small but hilly yards to mow)
Thanks for the kind words!
Congratulations on the new tractor!
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks! Though it's a humble little Cub Cadet XT1 I picked up from you to know and learn its capabilities.
Sounds to me like a great reason to buy another truck and trailer! One for the tractor, loaded with all the necessary ballast - and the other for all the attachments! Great video!
Definitely see why you need Balast Tim. That tractor is a monster. Thanks for sharing with us. Lessons learned, get ballasts if you are going to work a Loader.
I have a John Deere 5525 and I have the back tires with weights and tires are filled completely with water helps out a lot.
Hi Tim, for those of us that have ran equipment out whole lives this doesnt apply much but you are doing a huge service for people that have not ran much equipment by showing these things . Keep doing what your doing !!!!!
If you ever wanna cross that 26,001 lb threshold let me know I just passed all my tests and would be willing to help you out on yours. It's not a big deal and opens up a whole new world of what you can towe .
Hey Tim,
We widened the front wheelbase of our 5075e by flipping the rims and it makes a huge difference on side to side stability when using the loader. Might want to give it a shot!
Good video Tim! I have been learning about ballast and lack of ballast and how important it is on my little tractor. This helps to see that even on bigger tractors ballast is needed.
Talk to Heavy Hitch about an extension to attach to the three point to get the weights farther back so you can get more leverage from the same weights. It would also be better to have the weights out as wide as the tires to get more stability. I've seen a guy use a box blade, mount a 55 gallon drum on each end and fill them with water at a job site. Then he drains them for transport. That's 900 lbs of removable ballast in the water.
It seems that Johnny 5 has found some great places to work. He seems to be more suited for agricultural tasks. I would bet that he would be a great choice for rotary mowing ( A/C and cab) Thanks for the great videos.
Between the spring pollens, bees, and chaff, I agree with you! And I thought I only wanted a cab for the winter...
I am quite amazed how stable my B series Kubota is with filled rear tires and my box blade attached. Full bucket of gravel or dirt is no problem. I didn’t think I would be able to do full buckets of the heavy material, but it proved me wrong!
I feel sorry for myself that I’m leaving this comment but it’s the reality of the world... Just found your videos and they’re always educational and delightful to watch. Thank you! As a city slicker with interests in law, finance, and politics it’s my knee jerk reaction to warn you about your t shirt. While it’s a tractor it resembles the infamous Pepe the frog. I just worry about internet trolls trying to harm this wonderful channel and your family. Something to consider in the next logo design.
We now have a new logo. Check it out.
Adding spacers on the rear wheels helps a LOT.
Enjoy the farm videos! Hope you will film more at the farm this year.
Great information Tim. Another option not often mentioned in the manuals about ballast, is the more you can keep below the centerline of the axles the more side stability you have. Down side to that is obvious ground clearance.
I like the material in this video and have a couple of suggestions. I too have a 5000 series JD. As soon as I bought it, I widened the front and rear tires. I think that both front and rear are now at 96" outside-to-outside. That width still fits fine on my trailer when I have to move it on the road. FWIW, the change makes a huge difference in stability - perceived and real. The operator is also "tossed" less left-right. My second suggestion is to lower your 3 point. Just because you can lift it high doesn't mean you should. As with a load in the front, set the height low but high enough for clearance purposes. Again, you will have more stability.
What's funny is that the large tractor has the same little tool box as the 1025R. I laughed when I first got that, but use that little tool box all the time. Such a little thing, but is so helpful. Great video!
Wish both tractors had a larger toolbox!
Nice video Tim. Nice that you show what else goes on besides planting and harvest. Maintaining the land is a full time job. Katriel you left out the Pucker factor on the lean of the tractor.
A ballast box that the 3 point can pick up works well, easy on easy off.
One thing I've been doing to help prevent bouncing and tipping over, is driving slow and carefully.
Great info. I always learn something new watching your videos. Thanks.
Well done Tim!
Haha, I went to move an IBC half full of water at work today, the tractor did not like it at all, granted all I had on the back was a box blade, but I almost rolled the tractor 😟 scary stuff man. Good thing I was following proper tractor operation and had the load close to the ground. I was able to drop my loader before I had a bad day.
Fill rears with beet juice and put a large drum filled with concrete on the 3 point. Then it will hold it down. Probably about 2-3000 lbs should help.
John Smith I have a 5075e and the weighted tires helped a lot
Great video Tim I just love that 5075
Tim, I would really suggest putting ranch hand bumpers and a back window rack on your ford. It helps a lot with protection and it looks really cool too. Especially when pulling a gooseneck like yours.
Sounds like extra lbs.
Tractor Time with Tim yeah just a couple.....
Tim, have you looked into getting a “farm” tag for your truck with a CDL exemption? Should let you run over 26,001 if I’m not mistaken.
Ok thank you Tim
We ended up using the wheel weights on the 5320 at the tree farm, because we run self-sealer in the tires, and you can't do both. Too many shed deer antlers and stuff around, and you can't see them in the woods.
Tim learned a lot how to use bucket to level thought use edge
Thank you
God Bless All
PaK
Good job guys you did good out there!! Love ya'll
I've got a 6320 and it amazes me how easy the rear end gets light. The tires have some sort of fluid that I'm guessing came from the dealer or factory when it was new. I need to get a shop to check and see if more can be added
If your not getting the rear wheels off the ground you're not working hard enough!😉 Seriously it's a good video on ballast, it pays to set your tractor up correctly to get the most out of it. Mine is loaded with rim guard plus a ballast box or box blade that is mounted to my quick hitch to move it back as far as possible.
Instead of investing in a bunch of weights for the tractor, get a three point to front loader adapter, and a double throw hydraulic top cylinder for the rear.
When using a grapple, move the bucket to the rear, and even fill it with dirt if extra weight is needed. When using the bucket up front, have the grapple on the back.
This way you get better use of your implements, and you can even move material with both the grapple and bucket at the same time.
Tim since the 5075 is at the upper end of your weight range and these are all on a "lease" type plan have you considered downsizing to a large 4 series? Something like the 4066R. I think lift capacity is around 2500lbs, cab option, only cat1 3pt though. You could probably load the tires, put on the HH or heavy rear implements and still haul it on your current truck and trailer setup.
Everything is on the table.
Wondering if you can you lower that ballast a bit? Call me chicken but I only do 1/2 bucket loads and leave the brush hog mower on back. A couple of extra hours to sniff the diesel fumes is fine by me.
Watching your videos on ballast. I hot my new Johnny. Got the backhoe front loader and a grapple for the front. So far I have no attachments for the back. Well so far. My question is what do I need for the back? Do I need a heavy hitch weight bracket plus the weights and that quick attach that goes on the 3 point hitch that I haver never tried putting on. One reason why is I have nothing to put on the 3 point hitch. This is all new to me. Thanks for your help.
You can leave the backhoe on if you have no need to remove.
If you remove the backhoe, you need the hh weight bracket and weights. The quick attach is optional.
I have a custom weight bracket made for my 2320. It consists of the bracket, which is made for a hitch receiver, and the weight. In total I would estimate it to be about 350lbs for the weight plus another 20 in the mount.
i love the quick disconnect on loader i cant wait till john deere adapts quick disconnect on 4r
well done Tim. Good video.
Tim seems like your sure having fun learning all these tractors 🚜 I know I’d be advertising like crazy to get jobs . Have you tried the let go app ? It’s been good to me Craigslist is good just a pain updating all
The time ! Love the channel welcome back katriel
We haven't needed to advertise this year. We still have jobs from April that we have not been able to do (due to weather).
Also, we are so busy here at home, we don't have time for many projects. We are hoping that we will be settled in by this winter. Would be nice to have the shed in a state where it can be heated.
If you have the rear 3pt lift capacity I have an Easy Mass 4000 pound rear weight you can have for $400.00 if you want to come to Longview Texas and pick it up.Good video explaining rear ballast btw. I made my own 1500# ballast box for my TC 55 with loader.Just barely the right size.
When are we gonna get to see that flatbed back there?
When I bought my 5075E I thought the exact same thing. Big loader on a smaller tractor, mine did come with the rear wheel weights but I’m still thinking about filling the rear tires with fluid also.
Also for some reason the ride on it does seem really rough, and the loader seems kinda jerky. Guess I still need some time with it.
Also I am thinking about setting the tires to wider position, I think that would help cause with them set in it feels a little more unstable.
Great video
Good job guys!
Moving the weight father back lessons the weight needed. The short tractor frame causes issues. If the front axle was closer to the bucket it would also take less weight, but that is much more complicated than moving the ballast back
Tim, I have a solution to your ballast issue and approaching your GCWR. Just buy another truck and have the finance committee follow you with the other truck and trailer with Johnny loaded up. Then, when you get to your destination, strap Johnny to the 3pt as the ballast! See easy!
Yea!
Or get a DRW F350 and a non airbrake CDL.
Great job enjoyed that, I have a 5065e with a grapple there great for moving brush!!!
I just don't understand why anyone would question your ability to operate your tractors. If they feel like they are about to tip over, then back off the operation and try again another way. Do you thing and don't worry about the safety sally's. Love your video's !
Interesting how you can sit that grapple down upright. I have one and I have to open it and set it down fully open and tilted down. If not, it will fall over.
Good advice.
Great video I'm am a new owner of the 5055E, have had issues with tures off the ground. This is very dangerous. My first bucket of pig muck took me off the ground, I was nit on level ground. I did have all tures filled prior to delivery $$$ well spent in my opinion. Rear ballast box is next. Also did u add the buddy seat or dealer install? Part #'s if possible. Thank's Jack
Dealer install. ...using buddy seat from 5m.
@@TractorTimewithTim I have since come to find out the dealer only filled my rear tires at about 40% of recommended ballast. This mistake could have been deadly. Also my tires weren't placed in the outermost position at 72 inches on center as per Loader manual. They were at 591/2... Dealer will GIVE me a BW15852 Large ballast box free of charge, put my tractor on the scales and get this all figured out.
Yea, you need to finish filling the tires.
Even so, be careful about passing the blame. The dealer cannot protect you from all aspects of inexperience. You must recognize the limitations of your machine. Take your time, don’t get full buckets, etc until you become more comfortable with the limits of your tractor.
Good lesson! Nice job!
Are you counting your liquid ballast in the tires and also the fact that the ballast is hanging further back?
Didn’t have Rimguard back then.
If ya have a large area to work just throw your biggest attachment on and ya don’t have to mess around with those weights which are a pain to mess with and of course ballast in the tires also . On heavy stuff for my compact JD 3320 I just throw my box blade on or for heavier stuff Ill throw my brush hog or tiller on . I think since it’s so long(brush hog) it puts a Lil weight so much farther out VS right behind tractor or my ABI TR3 arena drag which weighs about 600lbs or so . I think it’s physics since weight is farther back . That’s my 2 cents Anyways great video TTWT
Ps: or a ballast box 📦 would be easy too
For tippy situations, have you thought about spacing the wheels out to the max?
Great advice! Thanks
Fill the rear tyres with Richard same as waterballasting in the uk slot of farmers use this method to ballast the tractors
We use Rimguard here. Heavier than water, won’t freeze. Biodegradable. Check em out: Rimguardsolutions.com/TTWT
Great video
Hello Tim is the rim guard expensive? How does it come by 5 gal ?
I've run a 5055e 4x4 for a few 100 hours and until we added water to rear tires it was just a nightmare to run. Always on the edge of rolling over when using the loader bucket on unlevel ground.
Tim, question.....Have you come close to tipping your 1025R over? If so, what was the incline and circumstances. I just bought a new 1025r and have been doing things around my property. My property has some nasty inclines that I wouldn’t want to get sidewise on. However even slight uneven ground makes me jittery.
Yes, I often encounter 'borderline' situations. This is common and expected with these 'top heavy' and narrow tractors.
It isn't the amount of incline that defines how 'tipsy' the tractor might be.
I've had instances on only slight inclines where the load is high, and the 'high side' wheel gets pitched upwards by the terrain. This can result in a tip-over.
My suggestion is that you practice the recovery procedures....quick lowering of the bucket for quick recovery. Also, learn to detect potential dangers before you encounter them (avoid heavy loads held high, with fast travel, on rough terrain, etc).
With time and experience, you can become more comfortable with your machine.
Does this make sense?
Thanks tim a very good video. I think i need to get that rim guard for my 1025r. I will have to check with my dealer.
You can build a concrete ballast box that should be around 3100 pounds you need you can buy 3 point pins and top link bracket set them into the wet concrete and boom very cheap rear ballast that you can load and unload easy to drop you're hauling weight
Great video!
Tim, do you have a safe way to gauge an incline on the 1025R before you roll over?
No.
Think you should use case knock down small trees and take down limbs.
Dig a ditch a long trees?
There is already a ditch along the edge of the trees.
We just needed to force the water over to it.
Yes, would be nice to get Casey in there to clean that up a bit.
great information video--and i spied what i think or thought was a new deck over trailer sitting in the back ground-ha! surprise-surprise-from the Andy Griffith show with Gomer.. lol
I just watched a long video on another channel. The host discussed why so many 1025r tractors are flipping over. The takeaway was that it was all due to operator error. Many commenters agreed as they are all expert operators and never make mistakes.
The 1025r in the video is unballasted, other than liquid in the little rear tires. Nowhere in the video is ballast mentioned.
None of the comments even mentioned ballast.
Well there is one comment there now. I politely suggested that rim guard in the tires is not enough.
The video maker replied that they don't use the 1025r for lifting all that often as they also have a 2032. I suspect it is unballasted as well.
In any case, it only takes one small mistake to overturn an unballasted tractor
Yep. Ballast is incredibly important. Saying otherwise is irresponsible.
For a 1025r, Rimguard is great...but insufficient.
Even Rimguard plus wheel weights is not enough. The loader manual makes it clear that LOTS of rear ballast is required to make these tractors safe.
Tim, Did I read the chart correct? With both rear tires filled with rim guard, you would have 1480 pounds? If correct, why did you choose 1600 pounds of weights on the 3 point hitch? I've been told weight on tires and wheels is preferable over on the tractor. Less weight on the axle bearings, so less wear on them. Any thoughts?
Kevin, the loader requires much more than 1480 lbs on the axle.
I described the two options in the episode.
You’ll see in tomorrow’s episode that the 2000lb I have on the 3 pt is still not really enough.
Tractor Time with Tim I guess my real question was, would it not be cheaper and better to put the fluid in the tires at 1480 than buy 1500 lbs of John Deere weights? I'm pretty sure JD is pretty proud of their weights.
Fluid is cheaper, but not removable. I can remove the weights if I want to use a different attachment.
Still, I would like to have both! A tractor is more functional if it is heavier.
Tractor Time with Tim Agreed. Fluid was the first add on for me.
yeees another episode of the 5E, thanks!:) what is your opinion on this tractor so far?
Good question. Haven’t formed an overall opinion.
great vid
Tim it's unfortunate you have to limit your tractor's ability due to weight restrictions. Do I see a larger truck and trailer combo coming soon on Truck & Trailer Tuesday? I doubt the budget committee would approve that, I know mine wouldn't.
The design engineers figured out a good balancing act
Do. You have a video for wheel balance?
Wheel balance?
👍👍👍Great job.
John Deere Green is an amazing color
@@editname6619 "I DON'T THINK SO TIM!" ROFL! 🤣
You need a 3pt hitch adapter the mount the 1025 to the 5075 and use it for ballast lol.
Hi Katriel missed seeing you in Tim's videos
Love the videos keep up the good work!!!
When my b7100 Kubota was getting its PTO fixed I borrowed my Dad's (BX something or other) to load my gator with dirt I had dug when I built a new pond (1/2 acre) and fill some holes in our yard. While loading the gator I turned the BX Kubota over twice, the first time I had the bucket about a foot off the ground (little front tires), the second time the bucket was less than 2 inches off the ground. (poor design). The second time really was a surprise I had always been told that as long as the load was below the front axle it would not turn over. Surprise it did.
I assume you did not have rear ballast???
@@TractorTimewithTim I had a little 4' box blade but I guess it wasn't heavy enough.
Not to make light of your ballast message, but at least you have a wide front end. I use to hear a lot of horror stories about tractors turning over because they had a single front wheel, or a V style 2 wheels and a narrow rear set. People didn't heed the warnings then either.
When we do purchase a sub compact tractor we will add some weights to the tractor.👍
I recommend a "Heavy Hitch" from heavyhitch.com with a full set of weights. Use code TTWT for a 5% discount!
Can you get industrial tires in John Deere's 5 series tractors or only the narrow agricultural tires?
Yes, can get industrial.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks Tim. A former coworker of mine is using his old compact utility John Deere for some commercial mowing jobs he has been getting. Business has been really good, several of his jobs are getting too big and time consuming for his current rotary mower but the compact utility he has is at its max so a 5 series may be in his future. Being able to get grass safe industrial tires will make upgrading easier. Again, thank you for replying, wish I could have met you when you came to the Farm Machinery Show in my hometown of Louisville.
Good afternoon Tim I have bought a 8-in Ford greater blade I have a little John Deere 1023 e it is 6 is it too big for my please let me know
Try it.
Can you do a video on what to look for in a tracter
What is the skid steer bucket in the back round for
Used it later in the episode.
@@TractorTimewithTim oh did not realize that
Do you have rim gard in the rear tires?
Man this grapple is big you can have smaler one .how dose it weith the front graple .
Watched several vid from different tractor makers on this subject and none explains it as well as do on this vid
Thanks Don!
That's happened to me I went a little fast with a bucket load of dirt and it bounced and the rear tires came off the ground I am ok
Tim can you check out my UA-cam channel it is hursts1 hhr
Nevermind 😉
How many acres at your new home place
10
Uh Oh Tim, looks like you need a bigger tractor, trailer, and a CDL. LOL
chase5726 Don’t forget a bigger truck!
@@retrievinggold7692 F750 for the skid steer ..... >8^)
Why do you have such narrow tires on that 5075e
Those are the only Ag tires offered.
Do the 5E series not have a left hand power reverser?
Yes. They do.
@@TractorTimewithTim I mean the 5R has the reverser right there on the loader joystick..gonna be a bear be a grizzly right!?
Good stuff Tim. You know us old tractor hands can become complacent to and accidents will happen it never hurts to review. PS Tim have you been beaten the boys back off of that pretty girl of y'alls. If you need help call me I'm and old hand at runnin em off.
She doesn’t slow down long enough for one of them to catch her!
@@TractorTimewithTim ROFL! 😊🧡
How much fluid could you put in the tires without going overweight? Could you fill them halfway?
Very good video. You two were funny at the end too.
You’ll have that how are you doing today