@@andrews9328 🤔 if you dont understand you probably shouldnt do this, you could hurt yourself on the wrong system. this is just for low pressure systems and will only help you understand some possibilities not all. if one fills faster or slower what could that mean?? 🤓 what is the purpose of an injector?
I was a little confused about what this test was for and what the results for your car were. Reading your blog cleared that up, but IMHO it would have been nice if you had explained in the video.
Thanks for letting me know! I guess I put it together with the idea that the video would supplement the blog post rather than the other way around. But I'll keep that in mind for next time.
It is to test *one* (out of several) failure modes of the injectors. Some fluid leaks by the small clearances to lubricate and cool the injectors valve. Eventually, with wear, leak by becomes excessive, and the injector is out of spec and should be replaced. The service manual (Found at sprinter source) will explain the specifications in detail. You don't want more than 20% variation between the injectors ideally, and if an injector leaks by more than 1.5" in the tube during 10seconds of cranking, it fails the test: sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17149
No fuel comes out into tubes at all. My van just didn't start with no warning. Started with ethanol into air intake for a while , ran ok but would stall sometimes. Did this test with no warm up as ethanol doesn't work now either. t's a 313 cdi 2001 with external fuel pump, not in tank.
I have a 06 and it is leaking about a cup full of fuel on start up but I cannot find exactly where is is leaking from but it is coming down close to the alternator, it will stop after about 1 min, any help or info is very welcome.
I have only had my Sprinter for about a month but I have noticed that the t1n has a very big problem with air getting into the fuel system and I think it is very hard to get it out. When I have the money I'm going to install a separate filter water separator and the best manual priming pump I can find. Until then I need to figure out the best way to bleed the entire system. I have tried bleeding each injector with the engine on but I am getting mixed results. The problem is that the animal before me over tightened the fuel lines and I have two super tighten them or they will leak. Also I hate those plastic fittings which are old and very brittle and damaged. If I had $1000000 I would put all brand new parts but if I had that kind of money my head would not be inside the engine of my Sprinter and my hands sure as hell would not have grease all over them.
I have found that the clamps on the fuel filter being tight enough make a big difference after you put on a new filter. I slight bit of air can get into the system and cause sluggish starting; so do tighten those two clamps securely. After that it started like new. I don't think I would go into primer pumps and other stuff. Find the real cause first. I once had a '70 Peugeot and took it to a small town garage due to cam shaft (OHC) noise and that SOB mechanic had over tightened everything. Some people just don't understand mechanical things.
Tim, I have an O6 2500 and have just replaced a leaking #2 cylinder leaking injector copper washer. Motor started and ran quietly. Came back to drive it next day and now I have lots of fuel coming out of the drivers side, a 3/8" dia black rubber hose coming from under the intake manifold. What do you think is the problem? I have lots of fuel draining down the driver way. I spot no leaks at the motor and the top of the motor with the black plastic cover removed show no fuel leaking.?? Any ideas?
@@jakejohnson_ When I disconnected the high pressure fitting on the injector fuel pipe to the injector I failed to notice that there is a snap fitting there. So I did not get the connection tight and fuel was gushing at idle. Went back and pushed down on the fitting connection and it popped into place and all the leaking stopped. I then noticed the fit revealed a lower height of the connection. Hope this helps. Had no other leaks in this area. I had a relatively small amount of "black death carbon" (injector seat washer bad) buildup in the injector valley and I think this is because I always let the motor warm up to the first temp gage mark before driving away. If you have an injector seat washer leaking and drive off with the motor cold you will have lots of black carbon build up in the valley and that stuff is hard to remove.
@@jakejohnson_ Well, that is a different thing! Let'er rip then. How many miles is on your beast?? I am sneaking up on 180K and all is well. Did you take a look at my vid on the new MB median bearing reposition bracket. Little bit of money and you have a better situation on that part of the driveshaft. I just happened to stumble across this redesign by MB. You will have to do a little fitting with the socket screws but the benefit is huge.
I'm not sure - the fuel in the tube is "overflow" effectively and there should be some but not too much... that's what this test is measuring. And these injectors usually fail in the way that lets out too much fuel, not in a way that they let out less.
I've got the same issue. My van just didn't start with no warning. Started with ethanol into air intake . Did this test with no warm up as ethanol doesn't work now either. No fuel comes out into tubes at all.
"a mercedes compatible 5mm allen wrench" ...you sound like one of the marketing wankateers. But seriously if you ever want a faster wrench get one of the 3-4-5mm Y wrenches used for modern bicycles. They're very handy.
So what's the results of the test???? How do I know if an injector is good or not?????
For real.
Yea what was the point
@@andrews9328 🤔 if you dont understand you probably shouldnt do this, you could hurt yourself on the wrong system. this is just for low pressure systems and will only help you understand some possibilities not all. if one fills faster or slower what could that mean?? 🤓 what is the purpose of an injector?
Do you have a test for the fuel volume control valve?
I was a little confused about what this test was for and what the results for your car were. Reading your blog cleared that up, but IMHO it would have been nice if you had explained in the video.
Thanks for letting me know! I guess I put it together with the idea that the video would supplement the blog post rather than the other way around. But I'll keep that in mind for next time.
It is to test *one* (out of several) failure modes of the injectors. Some fluid leaks by the small clearances to lubricate and cool the injectors valve. Eventually, with wear, leak by becomes excessive, and the injector is out of spec and should be replaced. The service manual (Found at sprinter source) will explain the specifications in detail. You don't want more than 20% variation between the injectors ideally, and if an injector leaks by more than 1.5" in the tube during 10seconds of cranking, it fails the test: sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17149
No fuel comes out into tubes at all. My van just didn't start with no warning. Started with ethanol into air intake for a while , ran ok but would stall sometimes. Did this test with no warm up as ethanol doesn't work now either. t's a 313 cdi 2001 with external fuel pump, not in tank.
great video, do you have any video on high pressure pump leaking on start up ??
You are golden my boi
I have a 06 and it is leaking about a cup full of fuel on start up but I cannot find exactly where is is leaking from but it is coming down close to the alternator, it will stop after about 1 min, any help or info is very welcome.
what size ( diameter ) of hose you have used please . Thanks
3/8 Id
Good and clear method. Would be nice to have quantity value of too much.
Anybody know where to find the leak back test values to compare tolerances?
I have only had my Sprinter for about a month but I have noticed that the t1n has a very big problem with air getting into the fuel system and I think it is very hard to get it out. When I have the money I'm going to install a separate filter water separator and the best manual priming pump I can find. Until then I need to figure out the best way to bleed the entire system. I have tried bleeding each injector with the engine on but I am getting mixed results. The problem is that the animal before me over tightened the fuel lines and I have two super tighten them or they will leak. Also I hate those plastic fittings which are old and very brittle and damaged. If I had $1000000 I would put all brand new parts but if I had that kind of money my head would not be inside the engine of my Sprinter and my hands sure as hell would not have grease all over them.
I have found that the clamps on the fuel filter being tight enough make a big difference after you put on a new filter. I slight bit of air can get into the system and cause sluggish starting; so do tighten those two clamps securely. After that it started like new. I don't think I would go into primer pumps and other stuff. Find the real cause first.
I once had a '70 Peugeot and took it to a small town garage due to cam shaft (OHC) noise and that SOB mechanic had over tightened everything. Some people just don't understand mechanical things.
All the wiring around injectors have carboned up so much from previous black death incidents. It's seems impossible to remove 🙄
Same problem. Especially around the electrical clips to injectors. A real pain , can't get them undone.
why would you do something like that?
Tim, I have an O6 2500 and have just replaced a leaking #2 cylinder leaking injector copper washer. Motor started and ran quietly. Came back to drive it next day and now I have lots of fuel coming out of the drivers side, a 3/8" dia black rubber hose coming from under the intake manifold. What do you think is the problem? I have lots of fuel draining down the driver way. I spot no leaks at the motor and the top of the motor with the black plastic cover removed show no fuel leaking.?? Any ideas?
I had the exact same problem. Was a high pressure injector pipe leaking.
@@jakejohnson_ When I disconnected the high pressure fitting on the injector fuel pipe to the injector I failed to notice that there is a snap fitting there. So I did not get the connection tight and fuel was gushing at idle. Went back and pushed down on the fitting connection and it popped into place and all the leaking stopped. I then noticed the
fit revealed a lower height of the connection. Hope this helps. Had no other leaks in this area. I had a relatively small amount of "black death carbon" (injector seat washer bad) buildup in the injector valley and I think this is because I always let the motor warm up to the first temp gage mark before driving away. If you have an injector seat washer leaking and drive off with the motor cold you will have lots of black carbon build up in the valley and that stuff is hard to remove.
@@vincentrolfe1384 my high pressure fitting has a very small crack in it so had to replace with new. Did make a mess of the engine bay though!
@@jakejohnson_ Well, that is a different thing! Let'er rip then. How many miles is on your beast?? I am sneaking up on 180K and all is well. Did you take a look at my vid on the new MB median bearing reposition bracket. Little bit of money and you have a better situation on that part of the driveshaft. I just happened to stumble across this redesign by MB. You will have to do a little fitting with the socket screws but the benefit is huge.
another nice video
so if there is no fuel in tubing thats bad? injector stuck closed?
I'm not sure - the fuel in the tube is "overflow" effectively and there should be some but not too much... that's what this test is measuring. And these injectors usually fail in the way that lets out too much fuel, not in a way that they let out less.
so just to keep the engine from hydro lock if computer is bad sending to much fuel to cylinder. or bad injector. got it thanks
I've got the same issue. My van just didn't start with no warning. Started with ethanol into air intake . Did this test with no warm up as ethanol doesn't work now either. No fuel comes out into tubes at all.
Thank you.
Only test low pressure
"a mercedes compatible 5mm allen wrench" ...you sound like one of the marketing wankateers. But seriously if you ever want a faster wrench get one of the 3-4-5mm Y wrenches used for modern bicycles. They're very handy.
Hi
You got a hella beard?
I wish... hella head of hair instead