Always good to revisit value, hue and chroma relationships. Ive been using Paynes Grey as a base for mixing greys but might switch to Ivory Black and see how that works. Paynes Grey is usually a mix of Ivory Black, Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna so not that far from straight Ivory Black anyway but higher chroma in the blue dimension I think. I don't tend to use Paynes Grey for mixing my darkest values though as low chroma shadows can look very flat and hence not shadow like except maybe if there is reflected light in a cast shadow. I prefer to mix high chroma (with Ultramarine blue and Transparent Oxide Red for instance) for the darkest shadows as they appear high chroma to me in actual observation.
I just read recently that Rublev Roman Black is a true neutral. Not sure if that's true or not. For landscape purposes they used to use the lamp black which does not dry very well so a comparable blue black. Edgar Payne used to mix a gray string with Indian Red, Cadmium Yellow light? (I assume), and French Unltramarine blue. Used to mix these into a lot of his colors to neutralize. I am not sure how high up the value range he would use this mixture; not sure if he would also use it to neutralize the lights. That would be for landscape painting only and it is not a neutral grey.
Great Helen, glad you enjoyed it! Definitely, new concepts can take a few listens to sink in. It might be an idea to try some of this stuff on your palette as you're watching it through, too. I'm sure we learn much more effectively when we're actively involved.
Thank you Rikke! I do a lot of online stuff for that reason. It's not quite the same as teaching in person but some things actually work better - you can get right up close to the painting and see every stroke, for one :)
This question is in regards to using walnut oil with oil paint. Walnut oil from art companies are not readily available where I currently reside but Walnut Oil from Waitrose is. Can this be used as a painting medium/ semi solvent just for flow when using oil paint. Waitrose says on the bottle that it is 100% walnut oil but I am wondering if there is a difference between this and the artist grade oils? Alkyds and odorless thinners although odorless are still toxic especially in closed environments. Any advice or experiences in this matter appreciated
Lovely greens, Paul. I love your analyses. Makes things crystal clear. You are teaching on Facebook? How do we find your Facebook teaching page (for those who are not on Facebook, I guess we would have to join). Not a big fan of Facebook but for this purpose it may be necessary.
I would most certainly be interested in a short course on this if you can. I’m not doing a canvas anytime soon I’m afraid. I am a model builder dioramas etc. I was taught all the colours at school but that is a whole different story nowadays with my memory just not there on remembering the colours. So I did look on your page and tried to reach out to you to discuss this possibility as I would only need short course as I am utilising oil paints only to enhance my models but this is knowledge I should pay to learn. If you think you could provide a short course for me with all this chroma, hue, saturation as essentially I’m here because I got Winton Artists olive green and learning Olive Drab, field olive drab, ranger green etc and the likes. Washes are used to detail and provide weather but and no disrespect to model builders they are artists in their right but we are drifting onto oils and so I am here to learn. Please do reach out if you think we could do something:) if not thank you so much in advance and do have a great weekend. This blew my mind it was delightful to see you work.
Thank you for that Phthalo demonstration, I was looking for a good phthalo useage. I've just recently put together a new palette for general usage, using a mix of opaque and transparent colors, and Phthalo Green YS was my choice for green. My "first step" palette was based on the Zorn palette and I chose: T. White + Yellow Oxide + Pyrole Red + Carbon Black (all opaque colors). So, after much consideration, I added to that just 3 transparent colors: Transparent Oxide Red, Phthalo Green (Yellow Shade) and Dioxazine Purple (perhaps i'll add Quinacridone Red PV19 also). I still have Ultramarine Blue and Cad. Yellow light in had, just in case, but in my work i rarely need them. What are your thoughts on this aproach? Just for clarification, I paint with OPEN Acrylics (the type that dry much slower). Thanks again, have a nice day.
It's hard to say for sure becasue pyrrol reds can vary quite a bit, I have one that's very blue-red although usually they're more orange. Quin red would be a good addition if you wanted to hit higher chroma blue-reds, but I suspect you're pretty well covered with you have. You'll be able to hit a good range and can just add specific tube paints to hit high chromas at specific hues if you need them. I'd think seriously about adding a couple of earths though, raw umber and yellow ochre. They make it much easier to mix lower chroma colours. With what you have, you'll find that a lot of the time you're having to drop chroma LONG way in mixes if you want to paint with realistic colour. Most colours that we see are lower chroma than most people think :)
The piano music comes from Kevin McLeod at Incmpetech.com, royalty free music. This one is called just "relaxing piano music" I think. And thank you :)
Hi Paul! , i really grateful. your videos are so instructive, clears up all my doubts. This live sessions that you do on facebook are private? how can i participate ? greetings from Chile!
That depends entirely on the brand. Paint manufacturers don't standardise on colour and name at all, life would be simpler if they did! Michel Harding cad yellow (which I'm using here and is not light, medium or deep, just straight cad yellow) as pretty similar to Winsor and Newton cad yellow light.
One of the best painters/teachers - watch and learn .
Thank you Merle!
I was pleasantly surprised by the mixing tutorial you just provided here... some very nice insights to how chroma and hue and value are interrelated.
Very helpful understanding differences between hue, value, and chroma.
I can´t believe I live this long without understanding color...Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Best wishes!!!
You're very welcome Lucia!
Such a wonderful tutorial! You’re so kind to share your knowledge. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Wow what an excellent tutorial!! 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻👍🏻😃
Always good to revisit value, hue and chroma relationships. Ive been using Paynes Grey as a base for mixing greys but might switch to Ivory Black and see how that works. Paynes Grey is usually a mix of Ivory Black, Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna so not that far from straight Ivory Black anyway but higher chroma in the blue dimension I think. I don't tend to use Paynes Grey for mixing my darkest values though as low chroma shadows can look very flat and hence not shadow like except maybe if there is reflected light in a cast shadow. I prefer to mix high chroma (with Ultramarine blue and Transparent Oxide Red for instance) for the darkest shadows as they appear high chroma to me in actual observation.
I just read recently that Rublev Roman Black is a true neutral. Not sure if that's true or not. For landscape purposes they used to use the lamp black which does not dry very well so a comparable blue black. Edgar Payne used to mix a gray string with Indian Red, Cadmium Yellow light? (I assume), and French Unltramarine blue. Used to mix these into a lot of his colors to neutralize. I am not sure how high up the value range he would use this mixture; not sure if he would also use it to neutralize the lights. That would be for landscape painting only and it is not a neutral grey.
'Just came across your channel & thoroughly enjoyed listening to how you explained this, not that all of it has sunk in, but I'll give it time. :)
Great Helen, glad you enjoyed it! Definitely, new concepts can take a few listens to sink in. It might be an idea to try some of this stuff on your palette as you're watching it through, too. I'm sure we learn much more effectively when we're actively involved.
Thanks I was struggling with moss on logs this should help. Also I understand values better. Great information!
Very enlightening - TY for sharing this!
You're very welcome Steven
Amazing! Go to around the 10 minute mark in the video and see the dogs face!
Yes!!!
Yes!!!!
This is so helpful in painting leaves
greetings from Denmark.
Really sad that I'm not living in the UK,
because you are a really talented educator!! 🌿🌿
Thank you Rikke! I do a lot of online stuff for that reason. It's not quite the same as teaching in person but some things actually work better - you can get right up close to the painting and see every stroke, for one :)
This question is in regards to using walnut oil with oil paint. Walnut oil from art companies are not readily available where I currently reside but Walnut Oil from Waitrose is. Can this be used as a painting medium/ semi solvent just for flow when using oil paint. Waitrose says on the bottle that it is 100% walnut oil but I am wondering if there is a difference between this and the artist grade oils? Alkyds and odorless thinners although odorless are still toxic especially in closed environments. Any advice or experiences in this matter appreciated
Very helpful thank you!
Lovely greens, Paul. I love your analyses. Makes things crystal clear. You are teaching on Facebook? How do we find your Facebook teaching page (for those who are not on Facebook, I guess we would have to join). Not a big fan of Facebook but for this purpose it may be necessary.
I would most certainly be interested in a short course on this if you can. I’m not doing a canvas anytime soon I’m afraid. I am a model builder dioramas etc. I was taught all the colours at school but that is a whole different story nowadays with my memory just not there on remembering the colours. So I did look on your page and tried to reach out to you to discuss this possibility as I would only need short course as I am utilising oil paints only to enhance my models but this is knowledge I should pay to learn. If you think you could provide a short course for me with all this chroma, hue, saturation as essentially I’m here because I got Winton Artists olive green and learning Olive Drab, field olive drab, ranger green etc and the likes. Washes are used to detail and provide weather but and no disrespect to model builders they are artists in their right but we are drifting onto oils and so I am here to learn. Please do reach out if you think we could do something:) if not thank you so much in advance and do have a great weekend. This blew my mind it was delightful to see you work.
Thank you for that Phthalo demonstration, I was looking for a good phthalo useage. I've just recently put together a new palette for general usage, using a mix of opaque and transparent colors, and Phthalo Green YS was my choice for green. My "first step" palette was based on the Zorn palette and I chose: T. White + Yellow Oxide + Pyrole Red + Carbon Black (all opaque colors). So, after much consideration, I added to that just 3 transparent colors: Transparent Oxide Red, Phthalo Green (Yellow Shade) and Dioxazine Purple (perhaps i'll add Quinacridone Red PV19 also). I still have Ultramarine Blue and Cad. Yellow light in had, just in case, but in my work i rarely need them. What are your thoughts on this aproach? Just for clarification, I paint with OPEN Acrylics (the type that dry much slower). Thanks again, have a nice day.
It's hard to say for sure becasue pyrrol reds can vary quite a bit, I have one that's very blue-red although usually they're more orange.
Quin red would be a good addition if you wanted to hit higher chroma blue-reds, but I suspect you're pretty well covered with you have. You'll be able to hit a good range and can just add specific tube paints to hit high chromas at specific hues if you need them.
I'd think seriously about adding a couple of earths though, raw umber and yellow ochre. They make it much easier to mix lower chroma colours. With what you have, you'll find that a lot of the time you're having to drop chroma LONG way in mixes if you want to paint with realistic colour. Most colours that we see are lower chroma than most people think :)
You are such a wonderful artist and teacher, Paul! I love all your videos. (Plus I have to ask, what is the piano music here? so lovely)
The piano music comes from Kevin McLeod at Incmpetech.com, royalty free music. This one is called just "relaxing piano music" I think.
And thank you :)
Hi Paul! , i really grateful. your videos are so instructive, clears up all my doubts. This live sessions that you do on facebook are private? how can i participate ? greetings from Chile!
Anybody else sees that dog face ? So nice
Oh how I wish you could finish this!
Thank you!
Totally agree Paul. Never use one word where 6 will do. Sorry !
hi there, what about using Viridian instead of phtalo green?
I thought you said 'Paranoid Yellow' at 3:11. My eyes are better than my ears.
Thank you so much !
You're welcome!
What brush are you using please
Thank u it is very helpful
You're welcome Nadia!
9:13 - you just painted a green dog on your pallet
Totally deliberate.
😁
Raw Umber AND Black to neutralize ? ... I'll give it a go.
What black +yellow = green
Is it just me or does the paint look like a Labrador dog?? lol
Hah! Totally does. I'm a frustrated pet painter at heart.
Cadmium yellow is light medium and deep.. you are talking of cad yellow deep!
That depends entirely on the brand. Paint manufacturers don't standardise on colour and name at all, life would be simpler if they did! Michel Harding cad yellow (which I'm using here and is not light, medium or deep, just straight cad yellow) as pretty similar to Winsor and Newton cad yellow light.
Yo te sigo pero no sé inglés😭😬🤭
PY3 is not very lightfast