It seemed to be easier, to use the part of the film, where usually the sound is, for picture instead to do something similar to Super 8. I wonder, why nonody came to the idea to make a kind of Vista vision, to turn the picture 90° and to get nearly the same size, as a non anamorphic wide screen format on 16 mm
Wow, I last shot on 16mm in 2005 with the Arri SR3- we shot in Vision 3 200T and it simply was amazing! I miss using film.. is exciting getting your footage back from the lab transferred to Mini DV and seeing what you got!
Ah…16mm school films. I was in AV in high school in the early 70s. We had a full auditorium with a projection booth. In it was a 16mm RCA Porto-Arc projector, hand threaded with a carbon arc lamp house. Some of the other AV kids didn’t want to get near the thing but I loved it. Yes, there was a steeper learning curve to using it than a Bell and Howell Filmosound classroom autoloader but man did it put on a big bright show in our large auditorium. It was amazing to me that you could blow those little tiny images on the film up to the size of our stage sized screen and they looked so bright and beautiful.
I remember one of the contraptions used in our school for viewing film. The projector was inside a metal cart, projected sideways and then reflected backwards onto a front screen on the other side.
Two things about 16mm, to complement your nice post, • the look is good old film in pure, 35mm is now just another digital intermediate, it's being made in digital standards, finest grain, optimized for digital conversion and reproductions etc. It's hard to differentiate which shots were done in 35mm film, even though many top budgeted movies are digital-film hybrid in production level, recent Dunkirk could be a good example. • 16FPS is a great economical way to shoot in costly film. Earlier movies had this de facto fps, again for the same reason. Even after all these years and technical enlightening, the difference between 16 and 24 fps is hardly noticeable, reminding of the megapixel myth that ruled digital camera scene for some time. And now , we got After Effects, 16 fps can be converted to 24 fps. And, 16 fps makes the movie optimally live with faster pace, compared to 29/30 fps, which many find stagnant and slow unless the exclusive story line demands it. Thanks.
I love that you explains all the history of the technology, and the uses that people had of it. I worked on amateur cinema for my thesis when I was in university and I was passionnate about that kind of topics.
This is extremely well researched and presented! (and that's coming from someone who has been shooting S8/16 since before you were born:) One very, very minor nitpick, what you were describing as dynamic range when talking about film stock is more often referred to as exposure latitude. Also, did you hear that Ektachrome 16mm is now on sale...finally!
Analog Resurgence hey man! I am buying 16mm film. i've your same bolex and i'm not sure which film is better to buy. I am undecided between the 250d and the 500t. I would like the more versatile option, considering that I usually like to film slightly underexposed and not too bright situations. I would like the most versatile option here. What do you council?
@TusconAnalogWorkshop, exposure latitude is not the same thing as dynamic range. Exposure latitude is your freedom to use exposure settings that are not ideal - that is, to underexpose or overexpose the camera or film, and still get good results. For example, if you can underexpose by up to one stop or overexpose by up to one stop and get good results, you have two stops of exposure latitude. Dynamic range is the magnitude of the range of brightnesses (measured in lux-seconds) that the film stock or camera can capture in each area of the image. Dynamic range is typically around 7-14 stops, depending on the camera or film stock. Having a camera or film stock with more dynamic range often translates to more exposure latitude, but not always. It really depends what you're trying to do. For example, if your scene has a large dynamic range and your camera has the same large dynamic range and you want to capture the entire dynamic range of the scene, you have zero exposure latitude.
When I understand right, Super 16 is only for filming and a source for digital video or for 35 mm blow ups. It uses also the space on the film, that was initially occupied by second perforation, later by sound track, because when you film, you always use a separate, synchronized audio recorder.
Love it! My first movie camera was a Cine Kodak Model B and I loved the little thing to death (literally--the spring gave out on me after about two years).
Thank you. This channel has been super informative. Especially for someone who has no means to ever use film on their projects. Great content man, I hope you get more reach!
Wow !! Whata Blessing To See This 16mm Film Video From A Young Guy Who's At The Top Of His Professions Knowledge Game. Thanks A Million !! Really Enjoyed This.
I’ve been shooting digital ever since I started filming. Convenient, cheap, easy. But there always was that mystery of analog. I’ve been Reading up, browsing on eBay, thinking of Super 8. I want to commend you on doing a fabulous job in presenting 16mm filming. You got me hooked!
You are spot on and the best Ive seen and so well explained. I knew most of what you were talking about. I can talk about a lot of stories privately with you.I was a close freind of Rune Ericson Im nearly 77. I just started a not profit company "Filmrescue" to save film for the future generations of children. I have a new BMD Cintel and will start digitizing for the future about 2000 cans of 16mm and 35mm film which Ive shot over my life. I am also helping other old camermaen see thier rolls from under the bed. I started Filmwest in West Australian in 1966. At present Im a Cattle breeder and winding down as the drought takes its diasterous toll in maybe 1000 years. But I still make films so please keep your posts going. In my mind Kodachrome was the best stock ever made apart from Technicolor which is 3 film B&W which has to be top of the list but Im not carrying the camera! So follow the yellow brick road Cheers Jon R. Noble ACS The Channon NSW Australia
Back when I was learning film in college, a bookstore there used to sell rolls of 16mm for around $30 for B&W Tri-X Reversal. Of course this was over 20 years ago and I'm sure those prices have soared.
this is literally the best, well made, well-researched video I have seen about film, as well as an obvious love for the craft, well earned a subscribe, please keep it up.
Hey dude, found this video and channel by googling Kodak 16mm film after watching Aziz Ansari's Right Now and I gotta say I love your enthusiasm and wealth of knowledge; instantly subscribed!
Cut my filmmaking teeth on 16mm. Was a lot of fun. I always liked the 70s look of the Ektachrome stocks, not the new E-6 Ektachrome but the VNF/ME-4 era stuff. Too bad you can't get that now.
Getting sound on your film is the main issue to deal with these days. You used to be able to get 16mm with magnetic sound strips for use with sound cameras.
I have quite a few reels of 16mm film that go back to 1928 through 1948. That early one was a family outing on the Hudson River going to Bear Mountain. My grandfather (and then later, my father) was a professional photographer. I'm sure he borrowed the camera, which cost, I've read, as much as a cheap car then. Other reels are from my father while he was a Photographer's Mate in the USCG during WWII, and some color footage of me as a toddler with my mother in 1948. I picked up a newsreel looking back on 1946, from Pathe', my birth year. I picked up a 16mm Bell & Howell 200 camera for $10 some years ago, just cuz it was cool. It uses the Magazine 16 format, which is, sadly, only 110 seconds run time at 16fps. The Film Photography Project www.fpp.com just has started offering Magazine 16 film and service. Not cheap. Fifty cents a second! Sadly, I've had three 16mm projectors die over these last ten years. So there's that side of the equation.
I'm a musician and I'm obsessed with reel to reels (pro studio audio tape recorders) and now I'm being convinced to try super 8. I'm never going to have money am I...
Thank you for the amazing video! I recently got this same camera for free when I purchased a Polaroid sx-70 online! I do have a question, so I know you lose frames at the beginning of the roll from it being exposed to light but do you also lose the last handful of frames you shot on the first side when you swap to the second side? I hope this makes scene
If your starting out with 16mm I would recommend shooting at 16fps It's a great compromise between frame rate and run time At 16fps a 100' roll is 4 minutes 400' is 15ish minutes
@@AiryFake yeah That's something I don't really get if your gonna digitalize it anyway then what's the point? When I shoot film I project it with an actual projector
Could you please do a video on Digital Intermediate Film that's made for digital post production, the physical properties regarding exposure, colors and protection seals and how different it is compared to the regular film, for grading
Thanks, great job. I only shoot 16mm black and white and develop it myself and print it myself. A Bolex may be used as a printer and I have a small printer that can do up to 400 feet. Developing is limited to 100 feet in a Soviet tank.
I was just reading about using the bolex as a printer! It’s things like that, like finding so many uses for these cameras and gear, that makes these formats so interesting
I used my H16 to print short length to accomplish "effects shots" back in '73. The problem was, if you had more than a short length, the tension between the exposed film and the blank film (if wound together on the same spool) would get too high and it would either jam or break. Then I developed the short lengths in a tray!
A small correction, the reg 8mm or D8mm perfs are exactly the same as the 16mm , just double the amount. . DS8mm film perfs however are slightly different.
I wonder, analog title cards. How are those made? I've had some bad luck with etching the letters into film in post (don't worry, not on anything i cared about) with a needle. But how are the old early ones made? Is it a painted glasspane with light behind, or is there something more to it?
There was an attempt for a 17.5 film for smaller movie theaters. In this case, normal 35 mm film, also nitro stock, was splitted. But it made not much sense, it was easier to use conventional 16 mm film instead.
You mentioned there was only one lab left that converts 8mm negs to positive, which I am VERY surprised and pleased to see, but you mentioned too that there were still plenty of labs who will do that for 16mm. Could you recommend some favorites? I have not found one and I want to make that jump to 16mm, but I also really enjoy putting the films on an old projector.
Another great video! Very informative however he did not cover how to shoot film with sound or the 3rd soundtrack type the had a extreamly limited run and that being DTS. It was a topic on film-tech's website about 15+ years ago. Sadly nothing ever came of it. I love 16mm and own about a hundred films, mostly TV shows and movies. He also forgot to say 16mm can and has been used to shoot many popular TV shows such as Walker texas ranger, Star Gate season 1, The Shield, and Scrubs. 16mm can be scanned to produce 4K video as they recently did for The Sield. Many movies such as Clerks and Jackie were shot on 16mm and movies as new as The First Man had parts shot on 16mm. I would love to get a 16mm camera but last time I checked which was about 2 years ago, 16mm was double the Price of Super 8.
Excellent stuff. As a film maker myself, I'm limited to my choices through cost or convenience, and unfortunately Hi8 is about as far as I can go when I want to record to something analogue. Still, it's nice to know about these vintage formats.
16 mm film was always on self extinguish stock. 35 mm almost on stock, that burns, unimpressed by water, foam, anything. It will extinguish when the material is eaten completely or theoretical if you could cool down it to very low temperature
Film is better than digital, thats just a fact, just like how music is better when not recorded digitally. And heck even analog metal detectors blow digital out of the water. Analog is more pure less can go wrong. Less in the way to degrade quality.
@@Statuskuo75 Nice if they are. Back when I was learning it, there was a lab out in Maryland I sent my film to called "Bono Film & Video". They have since got out of film developing and can only transfer films to digital. bonolabs.com
Hello Noah I was wondering if you could help me w some advice, I just bought my first bolex and couple rolls of film and am about to be done w the first roll, do you recommend I get one developed first to see if I made any mistakes w exposure since I’m not using a light meter or should I just develop both at the same time? Thanks:)
My humble recommendation: a Krasnogorsk 3. The very best bang for the buck and can be easily converted to Super 16. You might check The cinematography.com forums for professional advice. another great choice would be the Canon Scoopic. Comes with a fantastic zoom lens. Bolex cameras are becoming very expensive and most are sold without lens. Hope this helps.
You should make a video about Caffenol I've been developing my 16mm films with it since 2017 and have gotten some great results The only real difference is that it is a slower developer So it usually takes 15 minutes vs 3 with some professional developers
I don't have any personal experience with it, but I've heard a lot of interesting stuff about caffenol. Definitely something I should focus on in the future!
@@AnalogResurgence if you are interested in trying it for yourself I would recommend starting with double x negative You can also develope tri x reversal as a negative because I haven't figured the reversal process of yet but I'm working on it. After it's been in for about 9-10 minutes you can take little peeks to see if the image is good. Then for fixer you just use 70g sodium thiosulfate mixed with water.
@@AnalogResurgence I've narrowed it down to the following 1. Pre wash (50g borax) at 40C for 5 mins wind constantly (remove remjet) 2. Developer (in order mix 60g super washing soda, 25g vitamin C powder, and 50g instant coffee) at 29-32C take a look at the film under a red light or low light 12 minutes in for normal exposure if you see nothing quickly put the film back and develope for 50 minutes. This means you underexposed but you can still get an image. (You can reuse this up to 3 times. I wouldn't recommend storing it for long periods of time. 2-3 weeks at the most. 3. Wash until water come out clean. usually 3 times 4. Fixer (70g sodium thiosulfate) at 32C for 8 minutes (reusable but it weakens with use and time) 5. Wash really good with warm water then hang it up to dry. All the chemicals can be found at Walmart except sodium thiosulfate which is pretty cheap on eBay
@@smly1685 this is great info! I was just about to try switching over to caffenol to try that out! Using a Morse tank. If you want to do a scan we will hook you up for sharing this knowledge! WWW.FRAMEDISCREET.COM Frame Discreet instagram @frame_discreet Justin Lovell Associate Member of the Canadian Society of Cinematographers
I have a cine-kodak model k and model b. In film school my teacher snapped one of the levers on the model b to make it compatible with super 16, and it seemed to work fine. In this video you mentioned the transport rollers being spiked on both sides. When I shot with my model b (which has a roller with spikes on both sides) I had no issue at all. And I have really been itching to shoot with my model k because it’s condition is incredible for a camera of it’s age. Is there anything I can do to solve this problem of the spikes on both sides? Tape up one side? Or should I try it out and just hope for the same result as the model b? Wasn’t this one of the purposes of the rem-jet layer (besides fixing halations) to prevent all the mechanics of film cameras from scratching the film?
From what I've see those double spiked rollers can damage film as even with a rem-jet layer it is still being hit by those spikes. Sometimes people will remove those rollers and actually grind them down to work better with single-perforation film which can be hard to do of course. You can always shoot some through it and see how it all comes out, there's no better indication than a camera test!
I have a bell and Howell 200ee camera that uses 16mm, but the cartridge looks to be more rectangular. Where can I get film to fit this camera? (Preferably one I can use then send back to get digitalized)
Hello! I have a 100ft role of kodak 7265 plus x reversal black and white film. I can't find hardly anything about it. I'm trying to figure out what its ASA is but I can't figure it out. Is there any way you could help me with that? Thanks for all your super informative videos they have been very helpful in my process to purchasing a krasnogorsk 3
Kodak makes 16mm and you can order from them directly, but also from places like Pro8mm and the Film Photography Project! www.pro8mm.com?sca_ref=207073.rkNff54PoN filmphotographystore.com/collections/movie-film/16mm-film
Ektachrome 16 is now out and Super 16 anamorphic is an option too now thanks to the good people at Vantage and Panavision.
Wait. Do you mean standard 16mm film is still available and can be processed?
Retrogamer71 wait. Did you watch the video?
It seemed to be easier, to use the part of the film, where usually the sound is, for picture instead to do something similar to Super 8.
I wonder, why nonody came to the idea to make a kind of Vista vision, to turn the picture 90° and to get nearly the same size, as a non anamorphic wide screen format on 16 mm
This kind of videos should being more appreciated,
Un saludo desde Colombia 🇨🇴
Wow, I last shot on 16mm in 2005 with the Arri SR3- we shot in Vision 3 200T and it simply was amazing! I miss using film.. is exciting getting your footage back from the lab transferred to Mini DV and seeing what you got!
Ah…16mm school films. I was in AV in high school in the early 70s. We had a full auditorium with a projection booth. In it was a 16mm RCA Porto-Arc projector, hand threaded with a carbon arc lamp house. Some of the other AV kids didn’t want to get near the thing but I loved it. Yes, there was a steeper learning curve to using it than a Bell and Howell Filmosound classroom autoloader but man did it put on a big bright show in our large auditorium. It was amazing to me that you could blow those little tiny images on the film up to the size of our stage sized screen and they looked so bright and beautiful.
I remember one of the contraptions used in our school for viewing film. The projector was inside a metal cart, projected sideways and then reflected backwards onto a front screen on the other side.
Two things about 16mm, to complement your nice post,
• the look is good old film in pure, 35mm is now just another digital intermediate, it's being made in digital standards, finest grain, optimized for digital conversion and reproductions etc. It's hard to differentiate which shots were done in 35mm film, even though many top budgeted movies are digital-film hybrid in production level, recent Dunkirk could be a good example.
• 16FPS is a great economical way to shoot in costly film. Earlier movies had this de facto fps, again for the same reason. Even after all these years and technical enlightening, the difference between 16 and 24 fps is hardly noticeable, reminding of the megapixel myth that ruled digital camera scene for some time. And now , we got After Effects, 16 fps can be converted to 24 fps.
And, 16 fps makes the movie optimally live with faster pace, compared to 29/30 fps, which many find stagnant and slow unless the exclusive story line demands it.
Thanks.
I love that you explains all the history of the technology, and the uses that people had of it. I worked on amateur cinema for my thesis when I was in university and I was passionnate about that kind of topics.
This is extremely well researched and presented! (and that's coming from someone who has been shooting S8/16 since before you were born:) One very, very minor nitpick, what you were describing as dynamic range when talking about film stock is more often referred to as exposure latitude. Also, did you hear that Ektachrome 16mm is now on sale...finally!
Thanks! I was actually just working on a video to focus on Reversal film and realized I had been mixing up dynamic range for exposure latitude!
Analog Resurgence hey man! I am buying 16mm film. i've your same bolex and i'm not sure which film is better to buy. I am undecided between the 250d and the 500t. I would like the more versatile option, considering that I usually like to film slightly underexposed and not too bright situations. I would like the most versatile option here. What do you council?
Analog Resurgence un! And how can i get some “slowmo” footage with Bolex? Pushing the camera to 64 frame?
@@baloup571 Increase the frame rate. Test it at lower speeds before 64fps.
@TusconAnalogWorkshop, exposure latitude is not the same thing as dynamic range. Exposure latitude is your freedom to use exposure settings that are not ideal - that is, to underexpose or overexpose the camera or film, and still get good results. For example, if you can underexpose by up to one stop or overexpose by up to one stop and get good results, you have two stops of exposure latitude. Dynamic range is the magnitude of the range of brightnesses (measured in lux-seconds) that the film stock or camera can capture in each area of the image. Dynamic range is typically around 7-14 stops, depending on the camera or film stock.
Having a camera or film stock with more dynamic range often translates to more exposure latitude, but not always. It really depends what you're trying to do. For example, if your scene has a large dynamic range and your camera has the same large dynamic range and you want to capture the entire dynamic range of the scene, you have zero exposure latitude.
Keep making videos dude! I love the history of this stuff.
Absolutely love this . Keep making these videos .Could you do a second part to super 16?Tips on exposing and projecting ?
When I understand right, Super 16 is only for filming and a source for digital video or for 35 mm blow ups. It uses also the space on the film, that was initially occupied by second perforation, later by sound track, because when you film, you always use a separate, synchronized audio recorder.
Love it! My first movie camera was a Cine Kodak Model B and I loved the little thing to death (literally--the spring gave out on me after about two years).
Awesome quick refresher! Answered all my questions of little this I forgot. Like riding a bike.😂
I can confirm that Ektachrome 16mm film is out now (August 2019) and available here in the UK. I've got a couple of 100ft rolls in my fridge already.
Where did you buy it and where would it be processed in the UK ? Thanks 👍
You’re amazing, I’ve been looking for the exact information you gave at 1:56 for a long time and you are appreciated. 😊
Thank you. This channel has been super informative. Especially for someone who has no means to ever use film on their projects. Great content man, I hope you get more reach!
Wow !! Whata Blessing To See This 16mm Film Video From A Young Guy Who's At The Top Of His Professions Knowledge Game. Thanks A Million !! Really Enjoyed This.
Thanks. I loved shooting 16mm in the past. I had a Beaulieu R16B. It’s been awhile. 😎
I’ve been shooting digital ever since I started filming. Convenient, cheap, easy. But there always was that mystery of analog. I’ve been Reading up, browsing on eBay, thinking of Super 8. I want to commend you on doing a fabulous job in presenting 16mm filming. You got me hooked!
It's not analog! It's chemical! The film it's a chemical stuff! The term "analog" it's about electronic stuff. So, Fim cameras, not analog camaras!
First time watching this video. Really impressed by the wide range of references used in this video. 👍🏻
You are spot on and the best Ive seen and so well explained. I knew most of what you were talking about. I can talk about a lot of stories privately with you.I was a close freind of Rune Ericson Im nearly 77.
I just started a not profit company "Filmrescue" to save film for the future generations of children. I have a new BMD Cintel and will start digitizing for the future about 2000 cans of 16mm and 35mm film which Ive shot over my life. I am also helping other old camermaen see thier rolls from under the bed.
I started Filmwest in West Australian in 1966. At present Im a Cattle breeder and winding down as the drought takes its diasterous toll in maybe 1000 years. But I still make films so please keep your posts going.
In my mind Kodachrome was the best stock ever made apart from Technicolor which is 3 film B&W which has to be top of the list but Im not carrying the camera! So follow the yellow brick road Cheers Jon R. Noble ACS The Channon NSW Australia
That’s amazing!
I'm impressed by the comprehensive overview you give here, nicely done! Particularly shooting on sound recording stock.
Your video is just perfect on explaining everything! Wow. Congrats and keep on making more of these.
Back when I was learning film in college, a bookstore there used to sell rolls of 16mm for around $30 for B&W Tri-X Reversal. Of course this was over 20 years ago and I'm sure those prices have soared.
this is literally the best, well made, well-researched video I have seen about film, as well as an obvious love for the craft, well earned a subscribe, please keep it up.
Hey dude, found this video and channel by googling Kodak 16mm film after watching Aziz Ansari's Right Now and I gotta say I love your enthusiasm and wealth of knowledge; instantly subscribed!
Great stuff man! I love how your videos are both super informative and also super approachable
Cut my filmmaking teeth on 16mm. Was a lot of fun. I always liked the 70s look of the Ektachrome stocks, not the new E-6 Ektachrome but the VNF/ME-4 era stuff. Too bad you can't get that now.
Getting sound on your film is the main issue to deal with these days. You used to be able to get 16mm with magnetic sound strips for use with sound cameras.
7293 - 200T. Lot of memories.
Very good and clear illustration.
The catalogue of the kodaskope library you mention is available on the internet archive website
My favorite 16mm motion picture camera is the Panaflex 16 Elaine
wonderful video. 16 is the most wondrous medium. I hope one day I can shoot on it
Thank you ! You really go into to depth. We need more ppl like yourself
I have quite a few reels of 16mm film that go back to 1928 through 1948. That early one was a family outing on the Hudson River going to Bear Mountain. My grandfather (and then later, my father) was a professional photographer. I'm sure he borrowed the camera, which cost, I've read, as much as a cheap car then.
Other reels are from my father while he was a Photographer's Mate in the USCG during WWII, and some color footage of me as a toddler with my mother in 1948. I picked up a newsreel looking back on 1946, from Pathe', my birth year.
I picked up a 16mm Bell & Howell 200 camera for $10 some years ago, just cuz it was cool. It uses the Magazine 16 format, which is, sadly, only 110 seconds run time at 16fps. The Film Photography Project www.fpp.com just has started offering Magazine 16 film and service. Not cheap. Fifty cents a second!
Sadly, I've had three 16mm projectors die over these last ten years. So there's that side of the equation.
you helped me a lot how to understand 16mm films thanks a lot
like your content and the way you present, i need to see you with millions of followers.....
I wouldn’t mind seeing that myself!
You are really explained a lot of things to me .
This was worth my time. Thank you.
Thank you for this.
I'm a musician and I'm obsessed with reel to reels (pro studio audio tape recorders) and now I'm being convinced to try super 8. I'm never going to have money am I...
Dank für den Film! Toll gemacht!
Great Channel Man.Much needed.Can you go over your top 5 super 16 cameras sometime?
Thank you for the amazing video! I recently got this same camera for free when I purchased a Polaroid sx-70 online! I do have a question, so I know you lose frames at the beginning of the roll from it being exposed to light but do you also lose the last handful of frames you shot on the first side when you swap to the second side? I hope this makes scene
Thanks for a superb video
If your starting out with 16mm I would recommend shooting at 16fps
It's a great compromise between frame rate and run time
At 16fps a 100' roll is 4 minutes
400' is 15ish minutes
But I am not sure if 16fps is the right thing for movie production:)
@@AiryFake if your really low budget like me it is pretty nice but any lower frame rate looks bad
Through a projector 16fps looks fine but on a computer it's more noticeable
@@smly1685 then it is cheaper to use digital and maybe create the film look in post:)
@@AiryFake yeah
That's something I don't really get if your gonna digitalize it anyway then what's the point?
When I shoot film I project it with an actual projector
These videos teach so much! Thanks
A slip-of-the tongue at 3:15? Didn't you mean that, on the early hand-crank cameras, you had to shoot at 2 *revolutions* per sec?
Damn 16mm is so sexy, i need to shoot on that format at least once before i die.
Really helpful and in-depth, thanks!
Fomapan does super 8mm, 16mm single or double perforation and 35mm BnW motion picture film
Could you please do a video on Digital Intermediate Film that's made for digital post production, the physical properties regarding exposure, colors and protection seals and how different it is compared to the regular film, for grading
thank you.
For the ARRI 16 S, is there a blimp or something that can quiet the motor for a sound film?
nice job! subscribed ;) keep up the great work!
Nice video man! Thanks for the info greetings from Argentina.
Thanks, great job. I only shoot 16mm black and white and develop it myself and print it myself. A Bolex may be used as a printer and I have a small printer that can do up to 400 feet. Developing is limited to 100 feet in a Soviet tank.
I was just reading about using the bolex as a printer! It’s things like that, like finding so many uses for these cameras and gear, that makes these formats so interesting
I used my H16 to print short length to accomplish "effects shots" back in '73. The problem was, if you had more than a short length, the tension between the exposed film and the blank film (if wound together on the same spool) would get too high and it would either jam or break. Then I developed the short lengths in a tray!
Can you recommend info on how to process b&w film in a Soviet tank?
@@yorlov look on my You Tube page
A small correction, the reg 8mm or D8mm perfs are exactly the same as the 16mm , just double the amount. . DS8mm film perfs however are slightly different.
Thank youuu🙏🏽
These videos are spectacular thank you
Weird thing to note but 250D is available on super8 from pro8mm
I wonder, analog title cards. How are those made? I've had some bad luck with etching the letters into film in post (don't worry, not on anything i cared about) with a needle. But how are the old early ones made? Is it a painted glasspane with light behind, or is there something more to it?
There was an attempt for a 17.5 film for smaller movie theaters.
In this case, normal 35 mm film, also nitro stock, was splitted.
But it made not much sense, it was easier to use conventional 16 mm film instead.
You mentioned there was only one lab left that converts 8mm negs to positive, which I am VERY surprised and pleased to see, but you mentioned too that there were still plenty of labs who will do that for 16mm. Could you recommend some favorites? I have not found one and I want to make that jump to 16mm, but I also really enjoy putting the films on an old projector.
Informative video keep going
Another great video! Very informative however he did not cover how to shoot film with sound or the 3rd soundtrack type the had a extreamly limited run and that being DTS. It was a topic on film-tech's website about 15+ years ago. Sadly nothing ever came of it. I love 16mm and own about a hundred films, mostly TV shows and movies.
He also forgot to say 16mm can and has been used to shoot many popular TV shows such as Walker texas ranger, Star Gate season 1, The Shield, and Scrubs. 16mm can be scanned to produce 4K video as they recently did for The Sield.
Many movies such as Clerks and Jackie were shot on 16mm and movies as new as The First Man had parts shot on 16mm.
I would love to get a 16mm camera but last time I checked which was about 2 years ago, 16mm was double the Price of Super 8.
The film "Hurt Locker" and a few others were filmed on 16mm.
It'd be amazing if you made a video on Beaulieu 16mm cameras
So I should start with super 8, get the hang of using film, then I can use 16mm? Or might as well just use 16mm?
Great video! In my experience collecting old acetate films The orwo movie is much resisting to suffer vinegar syndrome
Any chance you know the background song that was used throughout this video? Thanks!
Fun fact: The OC was filmed entirely on 16mm except for the pilot episode which was 35mm
Great video, really looking forward to getting ektachrome on 16mm!
You didn't mention that television extensively used 16mm for broadcasting and storage of TV programs
You have a light resemblance to a young George Lucas to my eye. Congrats for your channel.
Excellent stuff. As a film maker myself, I'm limited to my choices through cost or convenience, and unfortunately Hi8 is about as far as I can go when I want to record to something analogue. Still, it's nice to know about these vintage formats.
Budget for processing, printing, optical effects, sound.
16 mm film was always on self extinguish stock. 35 mm almost on stock, that burns, unimpressed by water, foam, anything. It will extinguish when the material is eaten completely or theoretical if you could cool down it to very low temperature
Film is better than digital, thats just a fact, just like how music is better when not recorded digitally. And heck even analog metal detectors blow digital out of the water. Analog is more pure less can go wrong. Less in the way to degrade quality.
The lack of 16mm film processing services is a real problem today.
More labs are popping up!
@@Statuskuo75 Nice if they are. Back when I was learning it, there was a lab out in Maryland I sent my film to called "Bono Film & Video". They have since got out of film developing and can only transfer films to digital.
bonolabs.com
I loveee this video. Absolutely love it.
Hello Noah I was wondering if you could help me w some advice, I just bought my first bolex and couple rolls of film and am about to be done w the first roll, do you recommend I get one developed first to see if I made any mistakes w exposure since I’m not using a light meter or should I just develop both at the same time? Thanks:)
I wish Kodak would bring back Plus-X Reversal 7276. The contrast was so good you almost didn't have to use filters.
Plus x was so beautiful and fine grained!
Keep up the good work.
What camera would you recommend to start off with 16mm? Great history and well put together video!
My humble recommendation: a Krasnogorsk 3. The very best bang for the buck and can be easily converted to Super 16. You might check The cinematography.com forums for professional advice. another great choice would be the Canon Scoopic. Comes with a fantastic zoom lens. Bolex cameras are becoming very expensive and most are sold without lens. Hope this helps.
Love your channel!
Interestingly, you could use normal 8 instead 16 mm, because it's in fact a 16 mm film with the double number of perforation holes.
You should make a video about Caffenol
I've been developing my 16mm films with it since 2017 and have gotten some great results
The only real difference is that it is a slower developer
So it usually takes 15 minutes vs 3 with some professional developers
I don't have any personal experience with it, but I've heard a lot of interesting stuff about caffenol. Definitely something I should focus on in the future!
@@AnalogResurgence if you are interested in trying it for yourself
I would recommend starting with double x negative
You can also develope tri x reversal as a negative because I haven't figured the reversal process of yet but I'm working on it.
After it's been in for about 9-10 minutes you can take little peeks to see if the image is good.
Then for fixer you just use 70g sodium thiosulfate mixed with water.
@@AnalogResurgence I've narrowed it down to the following
1. Pre wash (50g borax) at 40C for 5 mins wind constantly (remove remjet)
2. Developer (in order mix 60g super washing soda, 25g vitamin C powder, and 50g instant coffee) at 29-32C take a look at the film under a red light or low light 12 minutes in for normal exposure if you see nothing quickly put the film back and develope for 50 minutes. This means you underexposed but you can still get an image. (You can reuse this up to 3 times. I wouldn't recommend storing it for long periods of time. 2-3 weeks at the most.
3. Wash until water come out clean. usually 3 times
4. Fixer (70g sodium thiosulfate) at 32C for 8 minutes (reusable but it weakens with use and time)
5. Wash really good with warm water then hang it up to dry.
All the chemicals can be found at Walmart except sodium thiosulfate which is pretty cheap on eBay
@@smly1685 this is great info! I was just about to try switching over to caffenol to try that out! Using a Morse tank. If you want to do a scan we will hook you up for sharing this knowledge! WWW.FRAMEDISCREET.COM
Frame Discreet
instagram @frame_discreet
Justin Lovell
Associate Member of the Canadian Society of Cinematographers
I have a Morse developing tank but haven't used it yet. Any suggestions?
Would love to hear what you have to say about Fomapan 16mm Rolls :)
I have a cine-kodak model k and model b. In film school my teacher snapped one of the levers on the model b to make it compatible with super 16, and it seemed to work fine. In this video you mentioned the transport rollers being spiked on both sides. When I shot with my model b (which has a roller with spikes on both sides) I had no issue at all. And I have really been itching to shoot with my model k because it’s condition is incredible for a camera of it’s age. Is there anything I can do to solve this problem of the spikes on both sides? Tape up one side? Or should I try it out and just hope for the same result as the model b? Wasn’t this one of the purposes of the rem-jet layer (besides fixing halations) to prevent all the mechanics of film cameras from scratching the film?
From what I've see those double spiked rollers can damage film as even with a rem-jet layer it is still being hit by those spikes. Sometimes people will remove those rollers and actually grind them down to work better with single-perforation film which can be hard to do of course. You can always shoot some through it and see how it all comes out, there's no better indication than a camera test!
@@AnalogResurgence Thanks for the quick reply! Love your channel man! The only one I've ever become a patreon member of.
i really like that lo-fi piano music, but near the end, i realized that if you removed it, it would actually just be a normal vid xD
Great informative content! Keep it up
I have a bell and Howell 200ee camera that uses 16mm, but the cartridge looks to be more rectangular. Where can I get film to fit this camera? (Preferably one I can use then send back to get digitalized)
you sound like the guy from
how to train your dragon
Now that u say that I can’t unhear it
Hello! I have a 100ft role of kodak 7265 plus x reversal black and white film. I can't find hardly anything about it. I'm trying to figure out what its ASA is but I can't figure it out. Is there any way you could help me with that? Thanks for all your super informative videos they have been very helpful in my process to purchasing a krasnogorsk 3
You should be able to find all the information you need here: www.super8.nl/file/7265.pdf
What's the best black and white film stock for the cleanest and sharpest image?
What camera and lenses did u used at 15:37 & 16:02
15:37 was an Arri 16S with a Kinoptik 9.8mm. The other was a Bolex with a Switar 25mm
Where do you get the film for the camera?
Kodak makes 16mm and you can order from them directly, but also from places like Pro8mm and the Film Photography Project!
www.pro8mm.com?sca_ref=207073.rkNff54PoN
filmphotographystore.com/collections/movie-film/16mm-film
can you recommend a beginner level 16mm film camera that are easy to use and affordable?
Where can I go in Toronto for this? 😎