Like always great information. On my lathe I drilled an taped the head and tail stock to fit a 1/4” allen screw. Then, I know it’s not the best thing to do BUT it works for me, I then make a slight grove in the Morse taper to match the allen. By doing this I have never had any thing come out or even loose . I don’t recommend doing this but it does work in my situation.
Hi Mike, a common way to keep a tap or reamer straight is to use a center in the tailstock and just snug it into the center in the handle end of the tap or reamer.All good info...Richard....
Hey Mike thanks for the video. One suggestion on using the reamer is to lightly place the tail stock center in the center hole of the reamer to keep it centered. The pressure has to be very light so it does not cut deeper and you can still turn it.
Mike - very good video. a point that I've never seen discussed anywhere relates to the tapered arbor on a jacobs chuck. One of the advantages of having a double-ended arbor is that if you upgrade to a larger lathe (eg, from an MT1 to an MT2), you can replace only the arbor at a much lower cost than replacing the entire jacobs chuck. As you noted, it's really wise to use a drawbar to hold the chuck in place, especially if it is mounted in the headstock. But the point that no one ever mentions is how do you keep the JT-33 taper end of the arbor from uncoupling with the jacobs chuck - the drawbar holds the MT-2 (or MT-1) chuck in the headstock, but the JT-33 can still work lose, and the result is that the chuck body will be thrown across the shop.
You might try using a live center to keep the reamer straight while cleaning up minor damage to either Morse taper. The side torque from using a wrench could make the taper egg shaped if you're not careful.Those reamers usually have a dimple in the back end that would fit on the tip of the live center. Just put the live center into the tailstock to clean up the headstock taper or put the live center into the headstock to clean up the tailstock taper. Light pressure from the quill keeps the reamer engaged on the live center. An easy trick to prevent unintentional damage.
When you have a morse taper reamer just bring in the quill with a center to keep the tap or reamer centered and you can use only one open ended wrench to turn while also tightening the quill at the same time to maintain center. When you do by hand without the tailstock and center the possibility to take the morse taper out of true is greater.
Seemed quite comprehensive Mike. Just a note, machining suppliers sell Morse taper in many configurations like MT2 on one end and JT33 on the other. Something I'm considering for other accessories. Happy New Year. Alan
Alan; JT tapers are the tapers that fit into Jacobs chucks. (but I'm sure you knew that!). You can also get MT tapers with blank ends, but you need the ability to do metal machining to use these. littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2394&category=
Several have suggested supporting the back end of the MT reamer with a center when doing a cleanup to remove any galling. I'm not a professional machinist, but I've been dabbling in metal machining for the past 20 years or so. Some years back I bought a MT3 reamer to clean up the tailstock ram on my (metal) lathe. That was the method I used (i.e. supporting the reamer with a center). It worked OK, but later I learned that it's actually better to let the reamer search and find its own axis of rotation. I know that sounds counter-intuitive. Anyone doing this should know that because of the shallow angle, removing even just a few thousandths in the MT socket will have a very large effect on how much deeper the male MT will then seat in the socket. You could end up where the seating depth is too much,, ie. the ejector kicks out a tailstock center before it can be fully retracted. Also, for any who may not know, all of the MT series tapers (i.e. MT 1, MT 2, ..etc.) each have a slightly different taper angle. They're very close, but each is slightly different. So don't try to ream, say the big end of a MT 2, with the small end of an MT 3 reamer. Grief will surely follow.
Hello Mike very good info but i like to know if we have to tap the tread our self for the draw bar or if there is some model all ready done tanks for all your video
Woodcraft has a nice keyless chuck that takes a 1/4" thread. Here is one from PSI amzn.to/2K7rzIt Disclaimer: buy this from Amazon and I get a small commission.
HI Mike, another great video thanks so much. I hope you and yours had a nice Christmas and wish you a happy new year. On another topic I've seen you using the Trend Airshield Pro powered respirator, I was thinking of getting one so any thoughts? Would you recommend it?
I don't use it as often as I should. Seems like I have a hard time keeping the battery charged . It does works well except you need to make a smart charger to keep from leaving it plugged in too long and frying the battery. I did a video on this back in 2014.
Hi Mike, Three good videos on the Morse taper. I’ve been noticing some of these issues you discussed and am looking forward to resolving them with this help. Also, I’ve made a couple of Amazon purchases through your Amazon page. I hope the credit comes through for you. I really enjoy all your videos. Please keep them coming. Tony Gentry
Thanks for the suggestion. Sometimes I forgot some of the simple things I learned that a new turner has not been exposed to so thanks for that suggestion.
Like always great information. On my lathe I drilled an taped the head and tail stock to fit a 1/4” allen screw. Then, I know it’s not the best thing to do BUT it works for me, I then make a slight grove in the Morse taper to match the allen. By doing this I have never had any thing come out or even loose . I don’t recommend doing this but it does work in my situation.
This is a nice extension of the Tuesday Tip. SAFE TURNING, John
Hi Mike, a common way to keep a tap or reamer straight is to use a center in the tailstock and just snug it into the center in the handle end of the tap or reamer.All good info...Richard....
Thanks, Richard.
Great reminders.
Good information, Mike. Thanks
So are turning now, Lynn?
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Not currently. I’m upgrading my lathe with a better motor and speed controller but Hope turn soon.
Great video,. Good information Mike. Keep them coming
Thanks for your kind words, Scott.
Thanks Mike, good information in this one.
Hey Mike thanks for the video. One suggestion on using the reamer is to lightly place the tail stock center in the center hole of the reamer to keep it centered. The pressure has to be very light so it does not cut deeper and you can still turn it.
i know it is pretty randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to stream new series online?
@Westley Leonardo flixportal :P
@Milo Kenneth Thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it !!
@Westley Leonardo you are welcome :D
Very useful info.
Hi Mike, Great tips & tricks for taken care of your lathe have a great new year. Y.N.W.A. Paul
Thanks. you too.
More good info to know about my lathe!
Thanks, Carol.
Mike - very good video.
a point that I've never seen discussed anywhere relates to the tapered arbor on a jacobs chuck. One of the advantages of having a double-ended arbor is that if you upgrade to a larger lathe (eg, from an MT1 to an MT2), you can replace only the arbor at a much lower cost than replacing the entire jacobs chuck. As you noted, it's really wise to use a drawbar to hold the chuck in place, especially if it is mounted in the headstock. But the point that no one ever mentions is how do you keep the JT-33 taper end of the arbor from uncoupling with the jacobs chuck - the drawbar holds the MT-2 (or MT-1) chuck in the headstock, but the JT-33 can still work lose, and the result is that the chuck body will be thrown across the shop.
Good point.
good stuff to know mike . thanks buddy
You might try using a live center to keep the reamer straight while cleaning up minor damage to either Morse taper. The side torque from using a wrench could make the taper egg shaped if you're not careful.Those reamers usually have a dimple in the back end that would fit on the tip of the live center. Just put the live center into the tailstock to clean up the headstock taper or put the live center into the headstock to clean up the tailstock taper. Light pressure from the quill keeps the reamer engaged on the live center. An easy trick to prevent unintentional damage.
Good idea, Gil
When you have a morse taper reamer just bring in the quill with a center to keep the tap or reamer centered and you can use only one open ended wrench to turn while also tightening the quill at the same time to maintain center.
When you do by hand without the tailstock and center the possibility to take the morse taper out of true is greater.
Yes, thanks for commenting.
Good stuff thanks .
Very informative, thank you!
Seemed quite comprehensive Mike.
Just a note, machining suppliers sell Morse taper in many configurations like MT2 on one end and JT33 on the other. Something I'm considering for other accessories.
Happy New Year.
Alan
Alan; JT tapers are the tapers that fit into Jacobs chucks. (but I'm sure you knew that!). You can also get MT tapers with blank ends, but you need the ability to do metal machining to use these. littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2394&category=
Thanks for sharing, Alan.
Several have suggested supporting the back end of the MT reamer with a center when doing a cleanup to remove any galling.
I'm not a professional machinist, but I've been dabbling in metal machining for the past 20 years or so. Some years back I bought a MT3 reamer to clean up the tailstock ram on my (metal) lathe. That was the method I used (i.e. supporting the reamer with a center). It worked OK, but later I learned that it's actually better to let the reamer search and find its own axis of rotation.
I know that sounds counter-intuitive.
Anyone doing this should know that because of the shallow angle, removing even just a few thousandths in the MT socket will have a very large effect on how much deeper the male MT will then seat in the socket. You could end up where the seating depth is too much,, ie. the ejector kicks out a tailstock center before it can be fully retracted.
Also, for any who may not know, all of the MT series tapers (i.e. MT 1, MT 2, ..etc.) each have a slightly different taper angle.
They're very close, but each is slightly different. So don't try to ream, say the big end of a MT 2, with the small end of an MT 3 reamer. Grief will surely follow.
Great information, Lynn. Thanks for sharing.
Cool!
Hello Mike very good info but i like to know if we have to tap the tread our self for the draw bar or if there is some model all ready done
tanks for all your video
Woodcraft has a nice keyless chuck that takes a 1/4" thread. Here is one from PSI amzn.to/2K7rzIt Disclaimer: buy this from Amazon and I get a small commission.
thank you Mike i will follow your intruction
best regard jean louis
HI Mike, another great video thanks so much. I hope you and yours had a nice Christmas and wish you a happy new year. On another topic I've seen you using the Trend Airshield Pro powered respirator, I was thinking of getting one so any thoughts? Would you recommend it?
I don't use it as often as I should. Seems like I have a hard time keeping the battery charged . It does works well except you need to make a smart charger to keep from leaving it plugged in too long and frying the battery. I did a video on this back in 2014.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks Mike
Hi Mike,
Three good videos on the Morse taper. I’ve been noticing some of these issues you discussed and am looking forward to resolving them with this help. Also, I’ve made a couple of Amazon purchases through your Amazon page. I hope the credit comes through for you. I really enjoy all your videos. Please keep them coming.
Tony Gentry
Thanks for your support, Tony. Safe turning my friend.
How about using the tail stock centre to centralise the reamer that's what I used to do with a straight reamer
Great idea! Thanks for sharing.
Where did you find your 1” drill with a #2 taper? The only ones I can find have a #3 taper.
I bought it from a woodturning friend who ordered several from an industrial tool company. Don't know the name, sorry.
great video, the Jacob chuck holder do you have a video on that ? I have cleaned my MT2 since the last video thank you again
Are you talking about the draw bar? I have not done a tip on that but probably should. Here is one done for the AAW on vimeo. vimeo.com/93999983
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Yes I have never seen that, only been turning for about 2 years and that was new to me. Much is new but I do enjoy it.
Thanks for the suggestion. Sometimes I forgot some of the simple things I learned that a new turner has not been exposed to so thanks for that suggestion.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thanks Mike