8:33 That' s not where the starter goes. That image is where the water pump/drive gear hooks up to the auxiliary gear off the drive shaft. The Starter is on the opposite end of the motor geared onto the fly wheel
Okay I have a question for you this motor has a compression ratio of 6.3 which is extremely low what about Milling the head since it's a flat head I'm bringing the compression ratio up to say nine to one I wonder if there's enough meat to do this in the head I have worked on welder engines with a flathead Continental and I have mailed ahead 50,000 to bring the compression up to 9 to 1 so much nicer
You can still get all Atomic 4 parts from Moyer Marine inc. I keep mine perfectly serviced. Moyer has many upgrades to this engine, including electronic ignition, upgraded cooling system parts. Anything you need from Moyer. And btw Don Moyer (the Guru) is NOT retired and is alive and well. He’s recently done some UA-cam A-4 how to videos.
Thanks but that's the only original content I have. Check out Don Moyer Marine, they hold a vast amount of Atomic 4 information, parts, and dedication. Cheers
No sweat! I liked your detail and “matter of fact” delivery. Hopefully the old engine is still pushing a sailboat around. I’ll start to post my full rebuild hopefully just before retirement in a few years. Take care
Working on my friends Atomic 4. I built my own Perkins 4-107. Atomic had 4 stuck exhaust valves causing no compression. Got them all free and operating, but #1 exhaust valves rides 1/4" higher than it's suppose to. I mean, it goes up and down but 1/4" inch taller than the rest both open and closed. Any comment?
Weird: That "seems" like a cam being different than the others, if I understand correctly.. Is it possible the others are all worn down? I'm not sure the throw of the valves, but that number is in the Lift specifications of the valve train measurements. Its doubtful that #1ex has a 1/4" hard deposit on the cam, causing the 'extra' lift.... On the bright side, as long as #1ex doesn’t hit the head, no harm is done. Best of luck.
Yesterday I took of the gallery plate, can't see #1 valve, but I can feel. The thread space on 7 of them is about 3/16", thread space on #1 is over 1/4" in the adjuster. Tried to lower it and the wrench flats broke on the tappet. I have a flat head valve spring tool, but can't find it. Next it to remove the valve and tappet and replace. Thanks for your commenting. I'll let you know the outcome. Lowell
Love those engines , mine is 38 years old and exept for putting a new exhaust manifold and no 4 exh valve this thing keeps on ticking . i do run it at least once every 2 weeks year around and flush the engine with muratic accid every 3 years I have owned it for the last 17 years.
I flushed mine with muriatic acid and suggested by Moyer marine. Don is a great guy full of knowledge and experience but I'll not be using muriatic acid again. It set off rust inside my water jackets like crazy. I tried using very light mix and it was so weak there's no result. I believe rystoleum had an inhibitor that seals the metal and creates a barrier that inhibits rust formation but I think the best bet is to install fresh water cooling.
I have always wondered if it was a piece of junk or not. What kind of power does it give you? Have you tried a muriatic acid bath for the salt? We use that on outboards. Works great and no tear down necessary usually
The later transmissions use ATF. Only the reversing gear train shares oil with the engine. Those clutch plates won't like engine oil. That engine there is WAY over 30 years old. That is the version they were running back in the 60s. I do not know the transition date to the later models but that one there has the early blue paint. A bit heavier valve springs are recommended, they should always be replaced at this point in time. Spun wrist pin bushings, distorted main bearings and cracked pistons are ALL signs of over-propping and lugging. Many of the stock props on those engines were not specked correctly. Many lugged along @ 1700-1800 at full throttle. That is not good for those engines. Many ran for over 40 years like that though.
Very informative video. Thanks for making it!
What was the total cost you accrued in parts?
8:33 That' s not where the starter goes. That image is where the water pump/drive gear hooks up to the auxiliary gear off the drive shaft. The Starter is on the opposite end of the motor geared onto the fly wheel
Other than that, great video. Very informative!
Okay I have a question for you this motor has a compression ratio of 6.3 which is extremely low what about Milling the head since it's a flat head I'm bringing the compression ratio up to say nine to one I wonder if there's enough meat to do this in the head I have worked on welder engines with a flathead Continental and I have mailed ahead 50,000 to bring the compression up to 9 to 1 so much nicer
You can still get all Atomic 4 parts from Moyer Marine inc. I keep mine perfectly serviced. Moyer has many upgrades to this engine, including electronic ignition, upgraded cooling system parts. Anything you need from Moyer. And btw Don Moyer (the Guru) is NOT retired and is alive and well. He’s recently done some UA-cam A-4 how to videos.
I've got to rebuild fuel pump on mine. Goin to do full rebuild in a year or so I'm still young still got alot to learn tho
Search out Don Moyer Marine. Not just parts, TONS of advice. Good people. Your A4 will LIVE !! Cheers !
I see you have a reduction gear as apposed to the usual 1:1. What prop do you use and at what RPM for cruise. BTW 2020 Moyer is still going strong.
2 blade solid bronze 13x12x1". 2000rpm. It 'hides' behind the full keel when sailing. Trans in REV when sailing to prevent spin. Moyer is Awesome
Hi there. Would you mind uploading any other videos of your Atomic 4 efforts. I have the same engine and would really appreciate it.
Thanks but that's the only original content I have. Check out Don Moyer Marine, they hold a vast amount of Atomic 4 information, parts, and dedication. Cheers
No sweat! I liked your detail and “matter of fact” delivery. Hopefully the old engine is still pushing a sailboat around. I’ll start to post my full rebuild hopefully just before retirement in a few years. Take care
Easy, informative, reassuring...smooth photo fades! Thanks!!
Excellent video!Thanks!
Working on my friends Atomic 4. I built my own Perkins 4-107. Atomic had 4 stuck exhaust valves causing no compression. Got them all free and operating, but #1 exhaust valves rides 1/4" higher than it's suppose to. I mean, it goes up and down but 1/4" inch taller than the rest both open and closed. Any comment?
Weird: That "seems" like a cam being different than the others, if I understand correctly.. Is it possible the others are all worn down? I'm not sure the throw of the valves, but that number is in the Lift specifications of the valve train measurements. Its doubtful that #1ex has a 1/4" hard deposit on the cam, causing the 'extra' lift.... On the bright side, as long as #1ex doesn’t hit the head, no harm is done. Best of luck.
Yesterday I took of the gallery plate, can't see #1 valve, but I can feel. The thread space on 7 of them is about 3/16", thread space on #1 is over 1/4" in the adjuster. Tried to lower it and the wrench flats broke on the tappet. I have a flat head valve spring tool, but can't find it. Next it to remove the valve and tappet and replace.
Thanks for your commenting. I'll let you know the outcome.
Lowell
try reaming out the valve guide.
Love those engines , mine is 38 years old and exept for putting a new exhaust manifold and no 4 exh valve this thing keeps on ticking . i do run it at least once every 2 weeks year around and flush the engine with muratic accid every 3 years I have owned it for the last 17 years.
What's the acid to water ratio you use?
I flushed mine with muriatic acid and suggested by Moyer marine. Don is a great guy full of knowledge and experience but I'll not be using muriatic acid again. It set off rust inside my water jackets like crazy. I tried using very light mix and it was so weak there's no result. I believe rystoleum had an inhibitor that seals the metal and creates a barrier that inhibits rust formation but I think the best bet is to install fresh water cooling.
I have always wondered if it was a piece of junk or not. What kind of power does it give you? Have you tried a muriatic acid bath for the salt? We use that on outboards. Works great and no tear down necessary usually
The later transmissions use ATF. Only the reversing gear train shares oil with the engine. Those clutch plates won't like engine oil. That engine there is WAY over 30 years old. That is the version they were running back in the 60s. I do not know the transition date to the later models but that one there has the early blue paint. A bit heavier valve springs are recommended, they should always be replaced at this point in time. Spun wrist pin bushings, distorted main bearings and cracked pistons are ALL signs of over-propping and lugging. Many of the stock props on those engines were not specked correctly. Many lugged along @ 1700-1800 at full throttle. That is not good for those engines. Many ran for over 40 years like that though.