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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- #WELDA Day 5 - Weld repairing cast iron with cast iron filler rods
Welcome to the Greg's Garage #WELDA 2016 challenge.
Day 5 of @Greg's Garage #WELDA challenge, and I didn't make it to the shop to work on the lathe, but I found some footage of a weld repair I did some time back.
I used a cast iron filler rod to repair a cast iron part. My welding instructor showed me this technique, and I had to special order the rods for this job, as they are not a common item in the stores.
This is an alternative to the common method of using a high-nickel arc welding electrode.
Here is a link to the product I used:
www.cigweld.com...
#welda #castiron #welding
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Hey Matt, I'm blowen away. I've been repairing antique farm engines for a long time, very long time. Always used brass rod, flux, patience and experience.
I've never known you could do something like you did. Very nice work, thanks a lot. Hal
Thank you!
I was always taught that you should heat up a piece even to a small amount to help it penetrate and cure but hats off to you for even trying.
Very clever to clamp it together first so the granularity in the two pieces will align, then tack them together, and THEN grind out the V grooves. That's great thinking.
Took longer to think about the repair process than to actually do the weld!
Looks and welds like cast steel to me. Like old Ford parts, they weld great!
⁰
Nice welds!
Though I prefer to arc weld it with any electrode between preheating and burying in sand, sawdust or lime
I have several boxes of cast iron filler rods from the 1950s/1960s ...I think im going to go play now ive seen how well they flow with TiG ..great vid ty
Give it a go, its super helpful. The rods I showed in this video aren't available anymore so the ones I have left are going in my underground nuclear proof bunker ha ha
@@krankengineering Yeah, tried them..they work brilliant..like you they are now safely tucked away for good jobs lol :)
@@krankengineering just slice off some strips of a brake disc.
First time I've seen Cast-iron TIG! Looks more than OK, probably doesn't hurt at all to have a little weld reinforcement. The only way I've ever tried to handle something like this is by brazing, and here would be so glad that the break is small and isolated like that.... I'm definitely going to look for those rods! Thought the clamp/tack idea was clever, you can be pretty sure you kept the original geometry and the part will still work.
Matt, Thanks for doing this video. Until today I did not know cast iron could be welded with TIG. I have welded a lot of cast iron using oxy/acy and cast iron rod with flux.The flux is getting expensive, about $28 US for a bout a 4 oz. jar. I will try TIG on my nexr cast iron repair. I am always concerned about a hard brittle zone behind the weld dur to mass quench effect. I expect it would be worse with tig than with oxy/acy. On critical work I have it normalized after welding. On work that has been submerged in oil I normalize first to burn out any absorbed oil, then I weld, and norrmalize after. Normalizing after welding is essential if the welds are to be machined. Again, Thanks. I learned something new.
Dear John, Greetings. I wish to buy torch rod for cast iron but machineable and color matched. Where can I buy the rod?
I hope you are able to find some suitable rods, I can't get them anymore here in Australia, and plenty of people tell me they can't find them in their local area.
@@krankengineering Why can't you grind up dome cast iron powder and mix it with a bit of flux as a substitute.
Most fluxes are a total rip off. There's tons of recipes out there, but the secret ingredient is roach powder or boric acid. Muriatic acid mixed with zinc makes a great flux.
I used them rods but needed a sif cast iron flux, but I used them with oxy acetylene.
A preheat and cool down is a must.
Good job mate. Well explained and well shot. Thanks for the vid.
+TheBlueskyson thanks mate!!
Thanks for all of the information. I eventually want to be able to make my own cast iron repairs with my powertig welder. I understand it can be a difficult job if the proper technique and metal isn't used.
@Zander Ashton Try Mrs. Davison of Mozambique. I made 35K last month with her trading tips. ty
That's the way to do it! Cast iron normally doesn't distort with heating and cooling like other metals.
Yeah I wasn't sure what to expect, first time doing it in the real world (outside what I learned in welding school). Seemed to go well enough. Cheers!
Very nice repair!
+TomsToolRoom thankyou!
Most steering arms are actually cast steel , look at color of the Sparks when grinding
It wouldn't be impossible to make a casting mould since you already have the part.
Ive welded cast using stainless rods and preheat the project. But in this case i would make a green sand cast as its a small part and machine after. No big deal.
May have wanted to clamp to a flat backing plate to absorb some warping heat
This is crazy, I didn't see any preheat, no peening, and the welds are beautiful. Why on EARTH is this not common for cast repair?? I've never even heard of cast filler rod. This makes nickel rod just look stupid.
My welding teacher showed me the materials and process. It works well. I agree, why use Ni when this is available?
Welded cast iron many years ago as a maintenwnce welder. Boy does it smell awful when you are welding it.
Nice one, I've not seen cast rods in years.
Are you using helium? It seems to be really effecting your voice at times 😁
That’s funny!
Very useful thanks 🙂
Glad it was helpful!
It seems to me like the concave part on the back could’ve used a lot more filler. But… I’m no welder.
Any word on how long the repair lasted?
4:00 look at it moving...
If you put a 10 shade lens to put in front of your phone so we can see the bead too
Very nicely done. I was wondering if I could use my everlast mig welder to perform similar repairs.
+Charlie Marks you could weld it with a mig but it probably won't last. The normal ER70 wire in a mig is not a good match for cast iron.
wow, what is that a 1/2" diameter rod, that thing is huge. If they made 1/16" or 1.6mm rods for that I bet it would be easier to use.
Hey mate, its a cast iron filler rod, probably would be easier in smaller sizes but the cast iron seems to "wash" off the tip pretty well. This was the only size available from my local supplier. Cheers!
No preheat!
They got to be a nickel rod no such thing as an actual cast iron welding rod but good stuff
is it just me or is the piece actually moving that much at 4:02 ?!
Yep, it was walking right out of the vice!! :)
I've never tig welded cast before. My tig welding experience is very limited. Did you have it set to pulse?
looks like cast steel?
I noticed a difference when you did the tack weld and the front / back weld that the arc was pulsing during the weld but not on the tack weld. could it be the aluminum in the vice is affecting the electric current?
Is this better than tig brazing it with silicon or aluminum bronze filler?
Hey Matt, have you ever tried silicone bronze filler for trig welding cart iron?
+MrMarcaap I have some silicon bronze but this is a filler used for brazing, not true "fusion welding". I generally use silicon bronze for joining dissimilar metals or where I need to join stuff together but I don't want to pour heaps of heat into it (to minimise the chance of distortion). I use these cast iron filler rods or high nickel stick welding rods (with lots of preheat) for cast iron.
Were the rods you used in the video actually Electrodes? cause I only seem to be able to find Electrodes not cast Tig rods.
If the 4 6mm(?) threaded holes need to be coplanar with the M10(?) at the end,it may break again; i guess a simple jig could have been made,and careful welding alternating sides?; i am saying this from a mechanic's point of view; i cannot weld shite, i rely on others like you for that.
Hi Jose, yes possibly a jig would help, however the fracture was a clean break and the parts fit back together perfectly. I didn’t have any of the other parts from the assembly - just the one broken part - so I have no idea how critical the tolerances were.
Good job
I have a same situation about a cast iron bracket that snapped. Just wondering if you can help me welding it back together.
Can you still get this item where did you purchase it
CIGWELD here in Australia, they were special order but no longer listed on their website 😢
Hi Matt, great vid and interesting. I have a job that our welders at work was going to do for me which involves adding cast iron build up to the sides of a engine block to create a full fusion weld to create a boss for another set of head bolts. They have offered to do it to save me the time and stress of doing it at home, they was going to do it using a gas torch & cast iron filler rods & cast iron flux. Do you think your method would be just as effective & as strong ? I don't think they could of ever tried doing it with tig as they did not mention it as an option. Does the surrounding metal machine back ok ? Or does it harden up like when you use arc rods. I would appreciate your opinion ! Only just found your channel but will be adding it to my list of subscriptions.
+Darren Heaver hi Darren. I would expect some heat distortion in the block unless this was done slowly over a long period of time. I haven’t tried machining these filler rods but they are simply cast iron so I can’t imagine any problems machining it. Arc filler rods are completely different metallurgy which is why they machine differently to the parent material. I think either gas torch or TIG would get you the same result. Sounds like a challenging job. But your welders sound like they have a plan to get it done. Good luck!
Can you gas weld with this rod
Are you "pulsing" the electrode or is it the camera?
Geez I can’t remember but most likely I have the welding machine set up to pulse.
How much did that pack of rods cost?
did you test it for strength?
How would you suggest it be tested?
Would it be strong ? As was thinking of welding a car hub assembly
As a general rule, nothing that has been weld repaired is as strong as the original. You've changed the metallurgy with the filler rod, and messed up the microstructure of the metal around the weld. Both of these are "stress concentrations" which means the same load the original part would withstand MAY NOT be withstood by a welded part. Its impossible to know for sure without destructive testing.
Tig welding cast iron filler rod no and name plz
My eyes! Why didn't you say when you were going to spark up!? UA-cam flashed my eyes!
+Bill Dozer lmfao. Are you the same Bill Dozer off the 33 forum?
I would have to say nope.
I KNOW that wasn't easy.
+Greg's Garage hey Greg, it was more of a mental challenge to work out the steps to get it done. Only get one chance so can't stuff it up...the welding itself wasn't that hard.
UP OR Bridage de la pièce !!!!! top
Looks like cast steel to me. Spark test would reveal that. Nice job btw.
The only thing i would have done way different is insist to see either the individual sub assembly that parts bolts to ... OR preferable the entire machine, It might have been easy to fix with a couple mild steel brackets or something, just bolted on.
What welding machine is this?
UNITIG AC/DC 200
How'd it hold up after that weld?
+Jared Sams never heard from the owner again so I take that as a good sign 👍
Matt McLeod I was just curious. That's the first time I've seen those cast rods. I typically use Nickel, Aluminum Bronze, or Silicon Bronze.
No preheat?
What preheat temperature would you suggest?
@@krankengineering at least 150ºC. Easily done with a propane torch. TIG brazing with aluminum bronze A2 is the way to go though because its coefficient of thermal expansion is very close to cast iron. It's a foolproof way to repair cast iron.
@@krankengineering So actually, clamp it like you did, then use a die grinder to cut a large V groove along the top side of the crack. The depth should be right into the middle of the part such that when you do the same to the other side, you will have achieved 100% penetration with the aluminum bronze filler. And it's _very_ strong, with the ultimate tensile strength being higher than the cast iron itself.
i wouldn't have sanded it and i would have put extra filler on the underside. just saying. nice weld.👍👍👍
you are passing your current right through the threads of your clamp, not good on threads same as passing through bearingsm not good
I agree you don't want welding current going though bearings or computers on cars or bike
I’ve welded with the ground on clamps holding my pieces together for many years. Zero issues.
does it use ac or dc current?
Hi Agus, this is ferrous (iron-based) so I used DCEN (DC-Electrode Negative)
@@krankengineering thank you for the answer sir
I was wondering the same! Thanks to both of you! Cheers!
The latin root "ped" means foot. Therefore, saying foot pedal is redundant. Other than that, nice job.
Cnc machine a new part
Your arc looks spattery like AC. Your machine runs weird. 🤷🏾♂️