55% vs 99% Nickel Rod On Cast Iron Repair
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- #welddotcom
Paulie B is here to show you the differences between 55% and 99% Nickel rod on a repair of a broken cast iron.
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When I was a kid in highschool welding class, I wanted to make a barbecue pit out of an old semi truck brake drum. The old, angry, retired military welding instructor, Mr. Harms, handed me some rod and said "This is going to feel like mixing melted marshmallows and your going to have to go by feel." Twenty five years later, that weld has survived thousands of heat-cool cycles and still hanging in there. Thank you Mr. Harms sir!
Hey Nathan, what a great story......Mr Harms sounds like he was a great teacher......love his description......and it is like marshmallow or bubble gum.....thanks for watching and commenting.......best wishes, Paul
Well written memory!
Thank you gentlemen.
I called him Mr. Harms sir because he wouldn't acknowledge you if you left out the "sir". I imagine you could practically be on fire before he'd let that slide. The first few days of class, we'd watch welding instruction filmstrips from the 60's. On the rare occasion Mr Harms caught someone sleeping, he had a bell made from half an oxygen cylinder that he'd wrap on a few times with a ball peen hammer.
Bemidji Highschool was built in 1912 and despite the thick masonry walls, even the English department knew when Mr Harms was "motivating" a student.
@@nathanpeterson1783 what a great story, thanks for sharing with us...
I learned a trick while I was an apprentice. Put a layer of soot from the acetylene on cast iron. Then when you start to preheat the piece, once the soot disappears, it's good to weld
Stephen, yes, that also works for aluminum, great for when you don't have one of those fancy Tempil sticks or the infrared gizmo....thanks for commenting and watching, hopefully others will read and pick up that great tip, Cheers, Paul
@@ypaulbrown so the soot burns off at a certain temp?
I've heard many uses to put soot on a part but never that one
@@LukeA_55 yes
@@ypaulbrown Would the soot help with the carbon moving by adding more?
I'm 65 ,35 years of pipe welding really liked the video thank you
thanks John, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
I like this guy's attitude. He's quite the jokester, and it made the video very enjoyable to watch.
pokebass1, you made my day with this comment....as I am not doing weld.com videos now, I am not always answering questions.....I think a little humor is good for learning, my dad told me I was not a chip of the old block, but a slice off the old ham....and it was one that could not be cure......thanks for your comment.....Paul 'Paulie' Brown
Welding content starts approx 7:45. Very little discussion of actual differences between 55 and 99.
According to Lincoln Electric: "As compared to Tech-Rod 99, welds made with 55 Ni are stronger and more ductile, and more tolerant of phosphorous in the casting. It also has a lower coefficient of expansion than 99Ni, resulting in fewer fusion line cracks."
This is opposite of what almost everyone claims on various amateur forums, so I was hoping for clarification, but this video doesn't really go there.
Vandal, I did research the subject before making the video, multiple places, AWS books, manufacturers...not just the internet....I will go back and see if I misinterpreted the information, thanks for watching and commenting, we all learn something new every day, and relearn something new everyday .....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul 'Paulie' Brown
I love the older guys. They have been there, done that, and have experience that only decades on the job can give you.
Now I will have to start acting like an old guy instead of the 15 year old my wife says I behave like......'OLD GUY'......never......thanks William, way down in New Zealand.....Paul up here in Florida, USA......appreciate the comment and thanks for watching......cheers...
Like I have pointed out on other sites, welding jobs are all different. Depending on what particular thing the employer is in need of. Many times it's things you will never see in any book.
Welding cast iron may be the job you do, in which case you can work out everything involved to get all the best combinations to make it work.
Other jobs welding cast might only be an occasional thing and it's different every time.
My present job I stack thousands of 20 thousandths thick pieces of sheet metal and grind a small groove down the side then put a weld down the groove using a tig welder and a cold feeder of .035" mig wire. I don't think you will find that one in any book.
I only occasionally weld cast iron to repair broken castings from China and they are rarely the same.
The presenter here did a superb job, educational and interesting. One of my favorites. I'd love to see more by this guy!
thanks Bruce, glad you like, they have curtailed my on camera work so I will probably not be doing any more video.....hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Love the collection of older tools. You don't see quality like that these days! Great explanation of the subject!
thank you for the explanation and demonstration of nickel rod use, great video
thanks Gerry, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Love this channel. But this may be my favorite welding video ever. Very entertaining and taught me a ton of new info. Always heard cast welded differently but did not know why or how it could be done. Really like when you guys go over the science and metallurgy involved. Thanks so much for sharing your welding experience and expertise!!!
Renegade, you really made my Easter Sunday!!!!, thank you so much for the compliment.!!!!....and also watching our Channel....happy you were able to pick up some good information.....stay tuned for more 'Thrilling,,Spine Tingling Episodes'.....We have a few more that we have done that are due to be presented in the near future.....the other guys also have some great stuff that is shot and edited and ready to air at any time ....This video was basically to be about the difference of 55 vs 99 nickel rod, but it would get real longwinded if we spent 10 minutes on just the rod.....so we decided to add all the extra information for all that have never welded cast iron before...what we did not cover , is that the rod can be used to join cast iron to carbon steel also without cracking. It is not cheap, but sometimes you have to spend a little to save a lot on repair projects...like one of a kind parts, that hand wheel is about 300 dollars if I wanted to replace it....no way.....let's weld it....have a wonderful Easter and best wishes, Paul [Paulie] Brown.
i used cast iron rods with blue flux. hard to find now. learned this 40 years ago. great job. thanks a lot friend. SC Navy vet.
Troy , thnnks so much for that info, yes, certain types of rod that were very common and worked great are just not stocked by many 'Modern' suppliers, I would like to try some of those one day.......thanks for commenting and watching, Paul
Thank you for showcasing your knowledge. You are a born educator.
thanks Jacob, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
I had a new c. i. exh mnfld. Needed to change the exh. port's direction. So, I cut the port off with my portaband. Beveled the mnfld & the short port. Put the two parts on the dash. Then parked my portable welding truck windshield toward the sun. Closed all the windows. Waited a while. Got real warm in there.
Once the parts were nice and warm...brought them to my fab table on the back. Tacked the parts together.
Welded about one inch at a time. Peened each weld. Finished it. Then put the piece back in the cab so the piece could relax itself nice and gently.
That was four yrs & many miles ago. Used NI 99.
out standing.....I=would not have wanted to sit in that cab...thanks Peter, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Great stuff Paul! Very informative and great contrasts on which is best for your particular application. Knowledge IS power!
thanks so much Cliff, best wishes, Paul
I love working with nickel rods but here they are very , very expensive.
Adrian, unfortunately they are, and they just got more expensive this month due to price increase in Nickel worldwide.....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Great video and info. Pleasure to watch and helped me immensely. Thanks Paulie !
thanks Greg, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Always love your videos! Super informative and fun to watch.
Thanks so much, appreciate that, yours are fantastic too....Rock On Brother...
Great video and very informative .especially about why you should use nickel or copper based rod's on cast.
thanks for watching and commenting, Paul, we really appreciate the feed back....
Great refresher. I remember the Powcons. I'd like to have one. Excellent instructing......
hey Daniel, thanks for commenting and watching, yes, the POWCONS are a versital machine for sure......I still have not hooked the Plasma torch up, I recently got a torch for it but have been to lazy to attach it.....big problem with a lot of POWCON's are the very high voltage many run on, I see them on Ebay all the time, looked like they may have been used in mining operations.....there is one that is designed for use on railroads and the power comes from the Third Rail...600 volts or so...lot easier and safer to use in a tunnel than a big transformer machine or welder generator.......cheers, Paul
Very well laid out info. Thanks very much.
thanks so much for watching and commenting we at weld.com appreciate it....Paulie
Great Video Paul!!! love the way you explain things
Thanks Anthony, ironically, we shot this the week before you shot yours......I try to get to a level that all can appreciate and understand, but also give the important stuff too.....Rock On my friend....Paul
@@ypaulbrown shit I didn't know mine was out till today, they made it pay per view. I ain't that dam popular 🤣
Exceptional content and infomation and not even comparable to the other Paul's videos
Thank you...thanks for watching.Paul
Thanks for your time.
thanks Max, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
thankyou very much amount of info tips and tricks here..great.
Clear and well delivered. Thank you very much.
thanks Beany, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Cant wait to try some nickel rod. Thanks for the tips!
you bet old timer, 51 years ago today.
Great video. Thanks for posting.!
so glad you liked Rick, Paulie B from weld.com
Well done -- Thank you!
Awesome its been so long since i have welded cast iron and yes i have used that welder its a good little welder
T Yabeny , glad you liked and thanks for watching and commenting.....for 50 bucks, I think I got a real good deal on the Powcon with wire feeder, spool gun and leads.....recently pickup up a Plasma Torch for it from my local dealer for free, I think they felt sorry for me.....
This was helpful. I am welding the axle tubes on my 8.8 and I'm brand new to stick welding and very green with welding in general but I couldn't lay down almost any attractive beads till the very end. Glad to know it's not just me being bad at this! 😂
thanks Dustin, glad you like, hope it helped you, we all start somewhere, and if we do not weld every day, our skills will get rusty, unless welding aluminum and stainless...haha....thanks for watching and commenting....Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Luv’ ya Paulie!!! Excellent video!!
thanks Buddy, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
I just did my very first cast Iron repair. A steering knuckle broke on our tractor, the part is going to take 6-8 weeks to get here. Needing the tractor I decided to weld the knuckle. Used 55 rod (nomacast) and so far its holding up great.
fantastic , thanks for watching and commenting, let us know how it holds up......Paul
Cast iron ain’t to bad to weld when prepped right and post weld treated. Good job !
@@Highplainsdrifter44 thanks so much for watching and commenting.....best regards, Paul
i have a pow con unit 300 amp and love it. great vid on doing cast iron
Marte, glad you liked and thanks for watching and commenting.The Powcon has not let me down......
Great video! Old guys rule!
i often wonder why the use of al. bronze for a brazed repair vs. the nickel stick rods..
Any comments??
Thansk!!!
thanks Dave, appreciate the comment....the brazed repair is far cheaper than nickel , it is flexible also, and it puts heat into the part in a large area that just hitting with the stick weld is concentrated heat.....unless you pre and post heat.....glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
I have used certainium for cast and nickl rod but I really like muggy weld for it works great 👍
hey Evan, I have not used either one of those....I may have to find some, were you rods bare metal or flux coated....thanks for commenting and watching, Paul
Nothing like a gray beard, showing what he knows. Thank you very much.
thanks Joe....appreciate you commenting and watching..., glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Great info
Bentonite is also used in alcohol brewing by helping the solids drop out of the liquid and clear during initial fermentation.
Bentonite has lots of uses, drilling in the earth, health food supplement, oil dry......crazy useful stuff.....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
dang, I should have known that as much as I have consumed over the years.....
Try MAPP gas instead of propane, it burns around 5300f and it's way cheaper than acetylene that only gets you about 6000f
thanks for the Tip, Propane was what I had in the shop, and since it was not very hot, I went with Oxy/fuel, ...thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
More Paulie B from now on.
Thank YOU So much for watching and commenting, Paul
I agree...more Paulie B....he gets down to the nitty gritty. I never heard the nickel 55 to 95 comparison so simply explained.
@@shortfuse43 really appreciate that....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Keep paulie but bring back bob moffat
@@Dcale thanks so much.....I aim to be more like Bob, he has done a lot more teaching, welding and making videos than I will ever do, he is my Idol also, and I can only hope to be 1/10 of his Talent.....Paul
Hello Paul, very interesting on the 2 different C.I. rods. I have a maintenance machine shop up in N.E. corner of California. Lots of logging here. Haven't got into very much CI repair, "But" if it comes along, would like to know what I'm doing. If I use 55 Ni rod, and I have to do any machining on it, will it fight me bad ? Tapping, and especially a blind hole would be challenging ? There's enough problems with any repair, with not hearing the "Snap, crackle, and pop", and then add in the machining process, Ahhhhhhhhh ! thanks. Regards, Peter
Peter...sorry to be so long in getting back to you, I am no longer working with weld.com, but....with 55 rod, you are relegated to grinding and not machining, unless you use solid carbide tooling, expensive and very brittle.....so you need a rigid set up.....99 makes a softer weld and picks up very little carbon from the cast iron that a 55 rod will, as the 55 still has 50% iron, and the carbon makes the weld hard and brittle....hope this helps, Paul 'Paulie' Brown
Use the inconel fm 82 or the 201 nickel ( 99%) of course whit TIG
sounds good, this was a viewer request for the differance in SMAW 55 and 99...we did cover a little more by talking about prep on cast iron....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
great video paul , if you ever have time could you go over the correct torch set up for oxy /propane cutting , thanks in advance
Michael, I will have to get back with you on that, I do not use oxy/propane in my shop...the propane I mentioned was a small consumer torch with propane....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Michael ,here is a video from Smith's that may be helpful, I personally have never used oxy/propane...hope this helps, Paul...ua-cam.com/video/f2amO0T3vkQ/v-deo.html
Theres a propane oxy video out now
So far that was the best cast iron video I've seen I'm using 99 but it looks like dog shit my electrode is positive which I think I might have that backwards and I have it at 55 amps if you got any advice or if I'm doing something bass backwards or ass backwards LOL please I need some help badly the first time I've welded cast iron
sorry for taking so long to get back to you N J Rasmussen.....Nickel rod is very sluggish and is like pushing Bubble gum around.....electrode positive is the recommended way to use a high nickel rod....I am assuming you are running 3/32 rod by the low amps, maybe raise you amperage....it takes a bit of practice to even make an ugly weld, unfortunately, it is expensive to use, so you want to get there as fast as possible....I hope this helps, let us know how you are ding, I will check back here occasionally , try and get the weld.com app if you need some faster feed back, best wishes, Paulie...
Where is your shop along hwy 441? We are just north of Athens. Great video, very informative and entertaining
Marty, well , I am a few miles south, like 600 miles....I am in Orlando, Florida, thanks Marty for commenting, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Keep on doing it
thank You Faustino......cheers, Paul
Very good
thanks 6841, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
The final cooling can be done by getting it evenly hot and burying it in wood ash. The wood ash is a good insulator and will allow the piece to cool slowly.
good idea, unfortunately when it is 95 degrees out, like the day we were shooting the video, a wood fire was the last thing on my mind......haha....and that good old cat liter was a lot easier.....I do recommend using new liter, as the used can rally stink up the shop when it gets hot.....thanks for the Tip, and thanks for watching, and commenting....Paul
@@ypaulbrown Cat litter is a great answer. I was thinking more of using some wood ash one might have available. That kinda presupposes that one has a wood heater or lots of campfires... Back when I was making tools from high carbon steel, sometimes I would need to really anneal some steel and a tub of wood ash was a great place to bury some hot steel to slowly cool.
@@chasg5648 that makes a lot of sense, using ash.... vermiculite also works, but it was much easier for us to use the Bentonite.....as we had to send the other Paul out to get some for the video......again, thanks for commenting, we really appreciate it and our other viewers who read the comments will get some useful information from it......there is so much to learn in welding, we are all learning new stuff all the time......best wishes, Paul
very good cutting 👍👍👌👌😍😍😍
thank you, Paul
gotta love that shop......
Love the cleanliness and meticulous organization.
@@InchFab why are you such a clown in all your comments, I have seen your name before come up.....go watch your pumping myron videos instead of harassing others on this channel
@@InchFab looks like a real shop to me, look at those tig rod holders, he don't just leave rods out to get all rusty and shit, a clean shop is sign of empty mind
@@atomichydrogenweld2823 thanks for watching and especially the comment to Mr Swider....Paul
@@Laura-wc5xt thanks for watching and commenting, yes, it is a real shop, good thing we only showed the organized side of shop huh? Paul
I have a question. I have a couple of hubs for a coulter assembly on a plow that are cast iron. They have ears that engage the frame of the coulter assembly to keep the hubs from spinning. Several of the ears have broken off. What would be the best alloy to fix this?
sorry for taking so long to get back to you....if you are building up a part, and not just welding on the broken part,
I would use oxygen/acetelyne and a low fuming bronze rod, you can shape it and it will be way way way less expensive.....the trick is to not burn the cast iron, but to get it hot enough to melt the bronze rod.....if you see the cast turn bright red orange, you have burned it.....have you checked out the video I did on oxygen/fuel brazing? thanks for commenting Mandolinman,hope this new info helps. glad you like, , Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
I have a 2" long crack on my exhaust manifold. Would this process be ideal? I don't mind purchasing the new manifold, only problem is my 05 Malibu manifold has the catalytic converter and manifold as 1 solid piece. Would like to spare myself the 500 dollars when my cat is fine. Thanks in advance. Awesome video!
hey dorkyjman, I would say to use this technique, make sure to drill holes at the ends of the crack to keep the crack from expanding, 55 is less machinable [grinding only usually] than 99, and the price is about the same....the 55 is better for large castings.....bevel out the crack, pre heat, weld short 1 inch or less welds, peen immediately with a needle scaler, a hammer may not be enough, you want to expand the metal before it contracts.....hope this helps, thanks for watching and commenting, Paul 'Paulie' Brown from weld .com
Lets say I have cast iron lifting keel off of a old sailboat that broke, would you use silicone bronze, aluminum bronze, or nickel rod? I build up alot of valve seats with silicone bronze.
Hello James Orr.....ACu-A2 Aluminum Bronze tensile strength of 89,000 lbs, ErCu-Sa Silicon Bronze 50,000, EiNiFe-Cl Nickel 55 80,000 , ENiFe-Cl Nickel 99 50,000... what process re you using? the main issue is to not burn the iron by overheating, and starting out on a part that is at least 400 deg F. and slow cooling.....The Nickel 99 rod is about 25% more expensive than Nickel 55, the two Bronze rods are about the same and about 1/2 the expense of Nickel rod. You. can Tig, Mig or Stick weld......all are aviaible in 1 pound amounts, I am not sure about the Nickel in a 1 pound spool of wire, but Silicon bronze is defiantly available, we did a video on Silicon Bronze welding a few months ago, check that one out......Aluminum Bronze filler is a TIg or Mig type process, you can probably get Aluminum Bronze stick rods, but at the moment I do not have that information....Er CuAl-1 is a low strength alloy not used for joining and Er CuAl- 3 is a high strength alloy used in weld casting of similar alloy and surface treatment of metals. I hope this has helped answer your question, best regards, Paul [Paulie] Brown form Weld.com
@@ypaulbrown thanks Paul, we have a machine shop here in Bartow and work on a lot of industrial pumps for the mines. We do both mig and tig with the silicon bronze on cast iron, but just as a wear surface. Wasn't sure about using it to join to pieces of cast, so yes thank you, I will go with the Er CuAl- 3. Thank you.
@@someorrs Thanks James, I am in Orlando, I would love to visit the shop one day....I worked in a machine shop here in Orlando that was started in 1928,,,,we did lots of repairs on many large items, not as big as why you get into I imagine.....shaft build up on a 30 inch lathe and turn down, had that old gal turning as slow as 1/4 rpm with a large gear box and VFD with he MIG gun attached to the tool holder, made easy work of build up......stay in touch, Paul.....
You say to heat the whole piece up to 300 degrees. If you are welding an engine block, like a 6 cyl in a tractor trailer. What would you heat the are up to?
thanks Nugget, I would try and get the block up to 300 + f...not easy, but if you can get the area you are working on and the nearby area, weld small 1 inch weld and immediately peen with a needle scaler, a hammer will not peen enough in my opinion, and do it immediately.....as you are keeping the weld metal form shrinking and pulling on the ast....., glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
What is that material under the welding lead? Steel wool?
thanks , it is welding lead.....really makes a big divverancqe, especially with MIG welding....no more drive by shooting sounds when starting and no hot grind clamps....., glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Exactly WHAT did you put under hthe Ground Clamp?
copper wire, from a welding lead, gives a much better ground....sorry for taking so long to get back to you, I am no longer with weld.com, but come back to videos to answer response, thanks Eldin, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Do you think I can use nickel 99 rod for welding mild steel to cast. I need to weld a bracket to an old forklift counterweight.
thanks Kyle, usually 309 stainless is the rod used for that.....but nickel will work, but it is expensive...the idea is to keep the carbon in the east from getting into the weld and mild steel , which makes it hard and. brittle......, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
What is the new company of those guys who made that inverter i want some of their products if they are built like that
Goran Hedberg and Curt Hansson started PowCon as part of AB Svetsia in Goteborg,
Sweden. The company was sold to Pacific Lumber which also owned Thermal Dynamics. In 1985, Maxxam Group took over Pacific Lumber and sold the welding equipment to ITW which also owned Miller and Hobart. In 1999, Goran Hedberg partnered with another Swedish business owner,
Gunnar Ennerfelt, and founded Arcon Welding in Salisbury, Maryland. Goran Hedberg died in 2018.
@@buckhorncortez great history there....thanks for sharing, and comment and watching, Paul
Thank YOU So much for watching and commenting, Paul
@@buckhorncortez I just found this information....
pretty nutty history.....hope you can see the History....
Paul
1974 - The first inverter welder was developed by two
Swedish inventors - Goran Hedberg and Curt Hansson.
They founded a company called AB Svetsia in Goteborg,
Sweden with funding from the Swedish Board for
Technical Development (STU). Their funding required
the company to market their product exclusively
through the Swedish welding equipment manufacturer,
ESAB.
1976 - The ESAB LHG400, manufactured by AB Svetsia,
was displayed at the Schweissen und Schneiden welding trade show in
Essen, Germany.
1977 - The name PowCon was trademarked by AB Svetsia.
1979 - AB Svetsia was sold to Pacific Lumber (which had acquired
Thermal Dynamics in 1977). The welder was produced in Hanover,
New Hampshire as part of Thermal Dynamics' line, and was renamed
the PowPak 400.
1982 - PowCon Corporation was formed, and production was moved to a
new 50,000 square foot plant in Tempe, Arizona. Goran Hedberg was the
Operations Manager. After helping with the move to Arizona, Curt Hansson left the company.
1984 - Goran left the company to become a Professor of Robotics at
Arizona State University.
1985 - PowCon Corporation merged with Cyclomatic Industries, another
Pacific Lumber company. Production was moved to San Diego, California. Later that year, Maxxam Group took over Pacific Lumber, and sold off the welding companies. PowCon was purchased by the CEO and President of PowCon Corporation, and PowCon, Inc. was formed...1993-1995 - Illinois Tool Works entered the welding market by acquiring Miller Electric in 1993, PowCon Inc. in 1994, and Hobart Bros. in 1995. Technology was traded between the companies - Hobart Bros. began manufacturing the circuit boards for PowCon, and PowCon manufactured the Spectrum Plus for Miller Electric.
1998 - Illinois Tool Works closed PowCon, Inc. Goran Hedberg purchased some of the manufacturing equipment from PowCon. Arc Products, in San Diego, California took over warranty support and repair parts sales.
1999 - Goran Hedberg partnered with another Swedish business owner,
Gunnar Ennerfelt, to found Arcon Welding in Salisbury, Maryland.
Goran researched the most common failures in PowCon equipment, and
improved the design to eliminate those failures. The new product was
named the Workhorse. Goran also developed the Ironhorse, a welding
power supply for subway and rail systems that gets its power directly from
the third rail or catenary line, eliminating the need for a generator.
2001 - Mike Bell joined Arcon Welding, and worked with Goran on several
development projects, including the Studhorse - a drawn arc stud welding
power supply.
2003 - Goran retired from Arcon, and later moved back to Sweden.
Gunnar's wife, Maggie Porter, who had been in charge of Sales at Arcon
since 2000, took Goran's place as co-owner of Arcon. Goran continued to
offer Engineering support for years to come.
2010 - Gunnar's daughter, Katarina Ennerfelt, joined Arcon as President.
2012 - Arc Products was acquired by Lincoln Electric. The remaining PowCon
parts were sold to Arcon Welding.
2014 - Arcon Welding Services Training Center was founded to support the
need for certified welders in Maryland by providing welding training courses.
Arcon Welding changed its name to Arcon Welding Equipment.
2016 - Arcon Welding Equipment discontinued support for PowCon, and liquidated the remaining parts stock. Mike Bell acquired a small portion of the parts. Most of the parts were scrapped or disposed of.
2018 - Goran Hedberg passed away at the age of 78. In Goran's honor, Mike Bell founded Legacy Welder Repair, a company focused on supporting PowCon users by selling the few remaining PowCon parts and offering troubleshooting support, with plans to produce aftermarket repair parts when the existing stock runs out.
2019 - Gunnar Ennerfelt passed away at the age of 83.
MIRABEL INDUSTRIAL WELDING EQUIPMENT
2019 - Mirabel Industrial Welding Equipment was founded by Mike Bell.
2020 - Mirabel purchased the welder manufacturing operation from Arcon Welding Equipment, and took over warranty support. Arcon Welding Equipment became Arcon Training Center, and began preparations to provide safety training in support of the coming Offshore Wind projects.
Can someone tell me why it is that when I need to weld on rusty metal no matter how much stick out or how low the power is I get holes right through it?
you are melting through because you have too many amps, and you have not removed the rust which is no longer steel.....what thickness material are you trying to weld, and what size wire, volts, and inches per minute [this is your amps in a mig setup], and stick out, which shout be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch
Now, this video is available inside the WELD mobile app......SCORE!!!!
glad you liked, Paulie
Good stuff! You must be an old navy sailor? HT? I was too
thanks Yellow, not a sailor, but would be if I could do it all over again, I did work for an HT....they put him on a Woodpecker Class....pretty funny huh, they did have a big bronze anvil on board....., glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
The cap looks super comfortable on you, like you wear it all the time, not just because they sponsor you.
-brought to you by whatever.
hey Josh, I actually do wear them all the time, and ironically, right before I became a cohost I had bought some new caps.....so as it turned out, I did not get any free caps....Darn....I did get the shirt though......thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
Josh, I see you Trolling alot , it is not really appreciated, maybe go watch a Wolfpack game or something
how does one determine whether the item is cast iron versus cast steel?
you can grind and look at the sparks, steel will have bright yellow long sparks and stars coming off, Cast iron sparks will be short, less yellow and shorter sparks and less stars. take a know cast iron item and test grind, remember what it looks like.....then find something that may be steel.....do the same.,, thanks for watching and commenting, best wishes, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Thank you, Sir!
Understood every word you said. So many instructional videos have mumbley talk, and too fast to understand. Yes, I do speak Engrish!...Thanks.
thanks Robert, this comment really made my day...., glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Weld mold 750,is the only rod I'll ever use,,45 yrs of repair work all types...
Aside from the old guys that still braze,,brave,, messy..very un slightly..
You must always peen the work area after a small area is welded,with hammer or air chipper..
Never had any cracking.
I have never used the Weldmold 750, I have used one other product of theirs, the supplier said it was similar to Super Missile Rod, and we used it as a replacement, ....I will have to look into that.....appreiate the comment ...cheers
Need the hot tip for the propane. 1000°+ and quick. The cheap propane tips cant be 750 and wont transfer
thanks Rohan, glad you like, I should have fired up the oxygen/fuel....weed burners with propane are great....thanks for watching and commenting, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
I know it’s a 55 vs 99 video but I’m doing alot of research before I spend $ and I’m wondering why use either if they make a cast iron rod specifically for cast iron?
Money is the only reason I can find so far to not use the “better” material so I guess it depends on how much the project is worth to someone?
I just happened to break my old vise last week so now I have something to practice on but my real project concerns are two old 1950s bells. One is crystal metal and cracked. Jb weld is one answer and per some “the only answer”.
The other is the wheel and the head bolt for a bigger bell. One is supposedly grey iron and one steel so I have multiple things to fix.
Fyi I broke the vise trying to get the rusted nut off the broken 70 y/o 3/4” head bolt.
None of the magic sprays worked or anything else until
Finally just put it in the freezer for @ 8 hrs.
Pipe wrench under my foot, big socket wrench, old muscle and patience got it off.
The head bolt was welded to the clevis. I can always use my knew bolt but then it wouldn’t be authentic. We’ll see….
Thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge.
hi Life SaVING Defense, the cast rod you speak of is just that, cast iron, and if you weld cast with it, it will be harder than Chinese Algebra....you can only grind it, not drill or mill, you might be able to drill with carbide bits.....If you do not need an exact color match, you can try using silicon bronze or aluminum bronze to tig weld with....they are about 20 bucks a pound....for tig rod. The other alternative is oxy/fuel with low fuming bronzer, but that can be real tricky, if you do get it right, it will be strong though......7018 SMAW can also be used, short 1" welds or less, peen as in video move around......preheat will only help you.......hope this helps, Paul
nice hat !
trying to keep my bald head from getting burned....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
If you ground some of the rust off that steel, you would have an even better ground
actually, that is patina.....it took many years to get that way, and it is Core-Ten steel, it is supposed to be that way. if you had looked closer, you would noticed the area that was being clamped to was clean, welding tables do not need to be ground to within one inch of their life to be suitable.....we are not trying to do brain surgery on my table, just welding . If I want a 'clean' ground, I ground to the part being welded. But thank you for the comment and watching, hope you learned something....Paul
Only 80 lbs,very portable!😁
I think I need one, back in the day, if that was a transformer machine, I bet it would weigh 500 pounds or more....man, it does stick, mig, tig and plasma he said....wonderhow much they cost......
Dolph, if this old man can lug that sucker around , it is portable baby......thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
How about doing "COLD" welding with the 99% Nickel rods?
well, depending on what you consider cold, that was cold compared to a tungsten arc or plasma arc....you could buy some nickel tig rod and tig it, but that actually puts more heat into the material, you can use aluminum bronze to braze the cast iron, using oxy/fuel or tig or mig.or use low fuming bronze to oxy/fuel braze, or even silicon bronze and tig, mig or oxyfuel. I am not sure what you mean by 'Colc' welding, do you mean the type welding you see the Chinese companies trying to sell their gear? let us know, the main idea behind this video was not repairing cast iron as much as what are the differences in type 55 and 99 rod.....55 is 20% cheaper, and as stated in video, better for thicker sections and ones that do not need drilling and tapping, as you need carbide tools for that. thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown Sorry, I meant not pre heating. I have some Nickel rods which the instructions (in French) say do not require pre-heating or maybe even don't pre-heat. I've had mixed results with them - you can see a bad one on my channel - more to do with the job & my lack of skill than the rods!
I sharpened my needles.
not sure how long they will stay sharp , beware of them shattering and throwing a piece at you, they are hardened steel....thanks for watching and commenting, Paul
@@ypaulbrown I totally agree with you. They do last for a while and blast slag well.
Always got the safety squints on.
Thank you for giving a damn! 👍🏻
@@dolphincliffs8864 always......brrrrrrrrrrrurp...can hear them needles from here in Florida, Paul
@@ypaulbrown I'm the only burp in class! Only open root guy too!
Backers for bends suck!
Too much labor scarfing and grinding. Open root you know right away you suck or chooch good!
@@dolphincliffs8864 true
I have done a little nickel rod braze repair with an oxy-torch for my dad and yeah, that stuff is SLUGGISH, to say the least. It isn't pretty but if it is functional, who cares.
Calvin, there is always a grinder to smooth it out.....the nickel in stainless can make it sluggish too......thanks for commenting and watching, Paul
So the 55 has more ductility than the 99?
thanks Smitty, if I mentioned the 55 having more ductility, that is the information I have gotten from different sources, I have never done a bend test to check the difference , sorry if there was any confusion.... hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Thanks Paulie! I appreciate the info!
need to weld up a vice thats cracked and has grease in it,,,,???
heat heat heat.....burn the grease off, keep it hot, 300 and over....after welding,
cool slowly ....kitty liter, oil dry, sand, to slow cool....thanks Mike, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Hello！We are the manufacturer of laser welding/cutting/cleaning/marking machine, did you need these kinds of equipments in production ?
I never knew a welder that didn’t like (a?) coke.
haha, BNU, I worked in Hollywood in the 80's in the film business,
we lived on caffeine .......thanks for watching and commenting, , glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
You mean you don't want to breathe that lead base poison paint ? A guy of your experience should still be eating nails for breakfast like I do .
well, I used to eat lots of lead based artist paints, when I was an artist... to get that needed lead for my pencil.....
the real reason I remove the paint, is to keep contaminants out of the weld pool...thanks Apache, glad you like, hope it helped you, Paul Paulie Brown....from weld.com
Bring bob back
thanks for watching and commenting Kyle...
Bob has his own Channel
I'm not sure if the constitution of nickel rods is drastically different in the USA vs UK, but the information contained in this video stands in stark contrast to my experience with welding cast iron. Without meaning to be an arse about it, it seems a lot like this video contained more hear-say than useful pointers.
G.W. Custom Creations: G W....what part did you think was hear say? All the information we gave was from technical manuals we researched and information from different manufacturers of Nickel based SMAW rod. As far as the composition of nickel rods in the US compared to the UK, they should be the same.....55 rods do not have 55% nickel and 99 rods do not have 99% nickel. They are just labeled that way. I would really like to hear what you may think is Hear Say, thanks for commenting and watching, Paul Brown
@@ypaulbrown hi Paul. I appreciate what you and other channels do trying to help, but I feel there's a lot of inaccurate information about welding cast. I appreciate there are many different types of base material, but the information pertaining to nickel rods seems at odds with what I see everyday as a cast iron fabricator. In the UK at least, 99 & 55 does refer to the nickel content of a rod, we also have pure nickel available. 55 are indeed quite sticky, but 99/pure produce an incredibly fluid puddle, that can run away from you, much like a 7018 at too high an amperage. 99 is much preferred for any application where post-weld machining is to take place, such as milling or machine tapping, as the iron content in the 55 makes it more prone to cracking due to carbon migration. Though obviously the applications are limited due to the relatively low strength of a high nickel content weld. Pre & post heat are not really necessary with nickel rods, unless the repair is going to see extreme heat cycles, or has seen high contamination levels in service, i.e. oil, coolant, etc. The same applies for peening. Unless porosity is a problem due to contaminants etc. Peening often gives little to no benefit, and in some cases actually increases the likelihood of cracking at the HAZ. I appreciate this is contrary to what is generally considered the correct approach for cast repair/fabrication, but the above has come from a collective experience well of over 65years of cast iron fabrication & repair in the business I work for. I didn't mean to sound combative, and I apologise if I did. I just seem to hear the same advice from many people, and it always seems contrary to what we find works best. Thanks very much for the videos, it's guys like yourselves, Bob Moffitt & Jody collier that help young guys along these days. 👍
@@g.w.customcreations3534 Thank you so much for that reply, some good information there.....The main content of the video was really about the difference of the two rods, not so much the welding of cast iron, but to get the allotted time, we needed to go into the repair of cast a little deeper. I have a friend who does a lot of repair on very old cast iron statues and sculptures, they moved away from nickel and now only use 7018 with peening.....the HAZ and weld bead cracking is no longer a problem for them. Best wishes, Paul in Florida
👍👍👍👍☕☕🍩🍩🔧🔧
Rich, not sure what all those emojis are, Ineed to put on two pairs of glasses to see...., but thanks so much for watching and commenting, Paul
Boring shit talking