I have the EXACT same scooter type and brand as this one in blue. 06 model and blue. Has the same dang tap as this and I'm adjusting the valves tomorrow. Hopefully I don't have that broken spring like yours. But I'm glad to be on the right track
I had one of those Chinese 150 scooters which also made engine rattle noise. Mine ended up being the stator coil bolts had loosened and the flywheel magnets were causing it to rattle around. You will have to have a flywheel puller to access the stator coil. I believe there were 3 or 4 bolts holding the stator to the engine. In general, you really need to disassemble these Chinese scooters and apply blue Loctite to the threads of all the bolts and reassemble unless you enjoy your scooter falling to pieces while driving down the road.
I purchased a new complete head assembly which made it very simple. You can get them for about $65 on Ebay. There are two different styles, watch which one you buy. Otherwise you will need a spring compressor.
It being a lighter tapping tells me that it has something to due with the valves. Maybe a valve spring. If it was loose rockers, your bike may not even be able to idle properly. Hope it gets resolved.
4 on intake 5 on exhaust. Valve adjustment. That's 0.004,0.005 on feeler gauge.I set both at 0.004 .but look up your specs and I would pull off the head check the valves first if they are loose tighten if they are tight loose to specs but make sure that the valve stem isn't bent or defective. Good luck you can buy a kit cheap
Brian, was your engine already warmed up or was this a cold start? I'm kinda having a similar sound with mine but it's only when the engine is warmed up good. Thanks ahead of time!
Thats the beginning of the piston rod bearings going bad, in time you will find metal shavings in your oil, they can run for a long time even without rod bearings, the bearings literally disintergrate inside the case and it will still run until the bearing case scratches the rod and locks the engine completely.
Sound like incorrect valve timing or chain worn out.Mine start to knock when idle but engine running good no airleak i only find a blow out crank seal on the ignition side.engine overhaul done except crankshaft which i did check but there is no play on the bearings.
remove cover and inspect valve springs if broken change if not check for bent valve stem, if so change, if all OK, check roller setup, check carb for over fueling and adjust,
vassilij zietseff if it's the carb over fueling could you explain why I think my ninga is making this nosir becausr at first it didn't make it and then all of a sudden it did
The Kickstarter is engaged sometimes the spring loses tension and the kickstart will vibrate and slowly touch your cooling variator fan where it grabs and makes a ticking sound in gradually gets worse and worse replace the spring in the kickstart
brianpresnell hi, my new 150cc gy6 is doing the same thing and it only has 540miles on it. I don't think I broke the engine in good. I wanted to go to fast on it to early. Mistake, but our sounds match very similar. Is this a hard fix to do? Thanks!
The engine break in is not about fast or slow.i break in my engines.number one mineral break in oil,drain the factory oil and add 10 w 30 break in oil.i usually start it the first time and warm it up accelerating and desaccelarating gradually for 3 to 4 minutes..let it cool off like for 20 minutes,then restart it and let it run for 30 seconds and off you go..u need to open the throtle ,gradually and reach, lets say 30 miles and let go of the accelerator,repeat the cycle 5 or 6 times and let it cool off..the most important thing during break in is to avoid heat,steady speed,long strectches without varying speeds.the best way is to roll it up gradually but steady once you reach 30 miles and an hour desaccelerate and repeat the secuence,idling is not good for a new engine,especially in florida where i live...you can do it this way. First 7 miles...30 From 7 to 14....35 From 14 to 21...40 and so on .the engine is not gonna break for revvying it,but if its heats up too much is not gonna seal properly..the main things is to avoid heat..after you have ridden it some 40 miles or so,drain that oil and put new break in oil and ride it normally making sure you warm it up while idling at least for 3 minutes...from there on,avoid riding it for over 10 minutes in hot weather,speed is not the problem,the heat is.i have done this many times and trust me if you put pressure on those rings and let it cool off your will never need a spark replacement.i have ngk plugs that i have used for 5 years in a row,never a problem.people think if you run a new motor fast ii will break..my answer is no,but if you let it heat up,it won't perform well,if you have a valve noise,they get loose occasionally,i tighten mine well..no worries for a long time.. Break in oil,1,2 bottles,after that mineral,after 1500 miles,full sinthetic..i use a crankcase breather,never a blown up seal .i also recommend a pcv valve at the valve cover output...and dont forget,accelerate gradually and steady,and let go,if your motor is cool.you will be too.speed is not an enemy to a new motor,heat is,this air cooled motors can overheat big time during break in in a matter of 10 minutes,so give it a break,once you put your full sinthetic you gonna feel the smoothness in the ride..Scooters are easy to fix,do not worry.you made no mistake.if anything let me know and i will guide you. One thing i can tell you,i have had over 28 cycles,scooters and motorcycles combined..i open the motors,and theories without practice dont work well together.the right way to break in is you push n u pull.as much push as pull.it means you can be hard on it,but never forget it needs to stay cool,so give it a break every 3 miles if u like to ride hard and yet want to stay on the safe side,this is mainly the first 40 miles, it also depends on the temperature where you live.i usually break in my motors by 2.am...no traffic...so what i do is i go out to have fun and find an excuse to ride it and stop..and so on...after 100 miles..that motor is ready,jusf let it cool off..
@@rctractif I know every scooter I've had that I broke in during the winter the engine lasted so much longer I've had about 8 scooters and the two I bought during the summer blew up on me about 15,000 miles
kered 409, if your getting fuel in the oil, you need to check the fuel mixture for running very rich causing excess fuel running down the cylinder wall, it could result in backfiring and poor cylinder lubrication to ring failure.
@@grazz7865 Indeed there was serious loss of power.. the scooter was able for 100km/h..but it was not going above 30km/h. Now after some fixing in months.. I dont know what happened that the scooter is going 110km/h and revving to 1000rpm over given rating. also it is taking too much fuel and producing more than rated hp.... idk what happened now.. the nature of problem has become inversed.
@@grazz7865 Well I was doing it myself and I suspected the carb., cvt, intake and valves... The Valves were tapping alot.. I bought the key and fixed them according to company setting. In case of carb I cleaned.. i cleaned jets the carb was very clean however some water had gotten in i cleaned that...nothing was adjusted all was done to spec. In case of intake i replaced it with a foam intake.. it was a hepa filter which are know to restrict much air... the engine has to pull air... for foam filter i hear they freely provide air..which was good. In the cvt the clutch was slipping I resurfaced the bell and cleaned the clutch. I regreased the rods and cleaned the weights in the pulley. One thing I remember was I removed a 1mm thick metal ring from around the bell which is a known speed mod.. but how can it increase the power especially torque.
@@ゲリン most of those things are great to have well tuned but would not cause any unusual noise. It would have to be the rocker arm, valve guide, springs or valve adjustment. I’ve noticed that some engines (on cars) have a slight valve chatter noise (some Honda’s and Hyundai’s) so depending on what kit you bought, the chatter might be normal.
Hi guys today I was fixing my engine and and wend I start it, it had the same knocking noise. I'm going to check the valve springs and the EGR hose. I'm going to give you guys the heads up.
have the same noise in mine but after it warms up it goes away and have never as yet had any loss of power though....hope to heck I don't have to pull the head and change the spring, dang it, but it does have that same sound...it sounds like a loose tappet but who knows
nctrooper10722001, I had an broken inner valve spring, the cdi wasn't the problem. Got a new head from ebay and had it running right about an hour after receiving it. Sold the bike a month later.
Same here. I put in an 80cc. I adjusted the valves. Checked everything. I’m wondering if it’s the valves themselves seating because it’s a new head (tight springs)?
I found the noise on my scooter it was The the Conrad he had play on the crankshaft so that mean the piston has broke so I put a new crankshaft in and now the oil doesn't come through to the rockers I think I've got a faulty oil pump I haven't checked it yet but if I do I will let you know I've bought a new piston kit and a barrel but my scooter is a 150 cc you must split the casing and you must put a new crankshaft.....
@@pietererasmus9528 there are no oil pumps on these unless you have something different. They are usually just “splash” systems. When the crankshaft turns, it will splash the oil around to lubricate everything. Maybe you have something a little better.
I have the EXACT same scooter type and brand as this one in blue. 06 model and blue. Has the same dang tap as this and I'm adjusting the valves tomorrow. Hopefully I don't have that broken spring like yours. But I'm glad to be on the right track
It was a broken valve spring, rebuilt the top end and sold the bike a couple of years ago
That is a very big valve clearance.
I had one of those Chinese 150 scooters which also made engine rattle noise. Mine ended up being the stator coil bolts had loosened and the flywheel magnets were causing it to rattle around. You will have to have a flywheel puller to access the stator coil. I believe there were 3 or 4 bolts holding the stator to the engine. In general, you really need to disassemble these Chinese scooters and apply blue Loctite to the threads of all the bolts and reassemble unless you enjoy your scooter falling to pieces while driving down the road.
I purchased a new complete head assembly which made it very simple. You can get them for about $65 on Ebay. There are two different styles, watch which one you buy. Otherwise you will need a spring compressor.
It being a lighter tapping tells me that it has something to due with the valves. Maybe a valve spring. If it was loose rockers, your bike may not even be able to idle properly. Hope it gets resolved.
4 on intake 5 on exhaust. Valve adjustment. That's 0.004,0.005 on feeler gauge.I set both at 0.004 .but look up your specs and I would pull off the head check the valves first if they are loose tighten if they are tight loose to specs but make sure that the valve stem isn't bent or defective. Good luck you can buy a kit cheap
Brian, was your engine already warmed up or was this a cold start? I'm kinda having a similar sound with mine but it's only when the engine is warmed up good. Thanks ahead of time!
+Jamie Adams same here with me 125 zg 2006
Thats the beginning of the piston rod bearings going bad, in time you will find metal shavings in your oil, they can run for a long time even without rod bearings, the bearings literally disintergrate inside the case and it will still run until the bearing case scratches the rod and locks the engine completely.
Sound like incorrect valve timing or chain worn out.Mine start to knock when idle but engine running good no airleak i only find a blow out crank seal on the ignition side.engine overhaul done except crankshaft which i did check but there is no play on the bearings.
Loss of power was most likely CDI limiting rpms.. Noise is most likely severely loose rocker arms.. or the variator weights worn out..
Yes lost of power is the CDI because I had to same problem with my scooter so I bought a new CDI and my problem was solved
remove cover and inspect valve springs if broken change if not check for bent valve stem, if so change, if all OK, check
roller setup, check carb for over fueling and adjust,
vassilij zietseff if it's the carb over fueling could you explain why I think my ninga is making this nosir becausr at first it didn't make it and then all of a sudden it did
It's always better to adjust your values first thing in morning. When the scooter is cold. Then you will get the adjustment just right. Yeah.
did you figure it out yet its the small end bearing
Just asking sir, why did you replaced the whole cylinder head if only the intake valve spring was at fault?
Also, the valve settings are .005 for both intake and exhaust.
I already fixed it. The problem was a broken inner valve spring. Rebuilt the top end and sold the bike. Thanks.
it be your camshaft bearing or your timing guide
Was neither of them. It was a broken valve spring😂
The Kickstarter is engaged sometimes the spring loses tension and the kickstart will vibrate and slowly touch your cooling variator fan where it grabs and makes a ticking sound in gradually gets worse and worse replace the spring in the kickstart
I think this is my issue thank u for ur comment
Hi mate did this get lowed as you reved it up
@brianpresnell Was replacing the broken valve spring hard to do? Did you need a special tool to change it. Help!
check your bolt on your bendix drive on the flywheel
valves are too loose. when you adjusted the valves from too tight, you opened them too much.
Valve tick that's not a knock or thud that's a tick
brianpresnell hi, my new 150cc gy6 is doing the same thing and it only has 540miles on it. I don't think I broke the engine in good. I wanted to go to fast on it to early. Mistake, but our sounds match very similar. Is this a hard fix to do? Thanks!
The engine break in is not about fast or slow.i break in my engines.number one mineral break in oil,drain the factory oil and add 10 w 30 break in oil.i usually start it the first time and warm it up accelerating and desaccelarating gradually for 3 to 4 minutes..let it cool off like for 20 minutes,then restart it and let it run for 30 seconds and off you go..u need to open the throtle ,gradually and reach, lets say 30 miles and let go of the accelerator,repeat the cycle 5 or 6 times and let it cool off..the most important thing during break in is to avoid heat,steady speed,long strectches without varying speeds.the best way is to roll it up gradually but steady once you reach 30 miles and an hour desaccelerate and repeat the secuence,idling is not good for a new engine,especially in florida where i live...you can do it this way.
First 7 miles...30
From 7 to 14....35
From 14 to 21...40 and so on .the engine is not gonna break for revvying it,but if its heats up too much is not gonna seal properly..the main things is to avoid heat..after you have ridden it some 40 miles or so,drain that oil and put new break in oil and ride it normally making sure you warm it up while idling at least for 3 minutes...from there on,avoid riding it for over 10 minutes in hot weather,speed is not the problem,the heat is.i have done this many times and trust me if you put pressure on those rings and let it cool off your will never need a spark replacement.i have ngk plugs that i have used for 5 years in a row,never a problem.people think if you run a new motor fast ii will break..my answer is no,but if you let it heat up,it won't perform well,if you have a valve noise,they get loose occasionally,i tighten mine well..no worries for a long time..
Break in oil,1,2 bottles,after that mineral,after 1500 miles,full sinthetic..i use a crankcase breather,never a blown up seal .i also recommend a pcv valve at the valve cover output...and dont forget,accelerate gradually and steady,and let go,if your motor is cool.you will be too.speed is not an enemy to a new motor,heat is,this air cooled motors can overheat big time during break in in a matter of 10 minutes,so give it a break,once you put your full sinthetic you gonna feel the smoothness in the ride..Scooters are easy to fix,do not worry.you made no mistake.if anything let me know and i will guide you.
One thing i can tell you,i have had over 28 cycles,scooters and motorcycles combined..i open the motors,and theories without practice dont work well together.the right way to break in is you push n u pull.as much push as pull.it means you can be hard on it,but never forget it needs to stay cool,so give it a break every 3 miles if u like to ride hard and yet want to stay on the safe side,this is mainly the first 40 miles, it also depends on the temperature where you live.i usually break in my motors by 2.am...no traffic...so what i do is i go out to have fun and find an excuse to ride it and stop..and so on...after 100 miles..that motor is ready,jusf let it cool off..
@@rctractif I know every scooter I've had that I broke in during the winter the engine lasted so much longer I've had about 8 scooters and the two I bought during the summer blew up on me about 15,000 miles
Have you checked the valve clearance?
kered 409, if your getting fuel in the oil, you need to check the fuel mixture for running very rich causing excess fuel running down the cylinder wall, it could result in backfiring and poor cylinder lubrication to ring failure.
Valve Adjustment
no, it was a broken inner valve spring
Mine does this but only when I'm running over 35ish. Wonder if its the same problem
I think its the valves and the valve arms. In my scooter they were very distant from the valve arm causing serious tapping noise like a diesel engine.
If that’s the case, you should be experiencing a loss of power because the valve is not opening completely.
@@grazz7865 Indeed there was serious loss of power.. the scooter was able for 100km/h..but it was not going above 30km/h. Now after some fixing in months.. I dont know what happened that the scooter is going 110km/h and revving to 1000rpm over given rating. also it is taking too much fuel and producing more than rated hp.... idk what happened now.. the nature of problem has become inversed.
@@ゲリン what was fixed and /or adjusted. That might answer some questions.
@@grazz7865 Well I was doing it myself and I suspected the carb., cvt, intake and valves...
The Valves were tapping alot.. I bought the key and fixed them according to company setting.
In case of carb I cleaned.. i cleaned jets the carb was very clean however some water had gotten in i cleaned that...nothing was adjusted all was done to spec.
In case of intake i replaced it with a foam intake.. it was a hepa filter which are know to restrict much air... the engine has to pull air... for foam filter i hear they freely provide air..which was good.
In the cvt the clutch was slipping I resurfaced the bell and cleaned the clutch. I regreased the rods and cleaned the weights in the pulley.
One thing I remember was I removed a 1mm thick metal ring from around the bell which is a known speed mod.. but how can it increase the power especially torque.
@@ゲリン most of those things are great to have well tuned but would not cause any unusual noise. It would have to be the rocker arm, valve guide, springs or valve adjustment. I’ve noticed that some engines (on cars) have a slight valve chatter noise (some Honda’s and Hyundai’s) so depending on what kit you bought, the chatter might be normal.
Mine is the same way on my icebear rocket 80cc. Found out Its the clutch on other side of stator. It went bad. You probably need to replace it
Thank yoj brian
My brother that is nothing but the exhaust valve,adjust it from 0.003 to 0.004 of an inch.
it's either the valves or chain are loose
i have a 170cc an it makes the same noise but not as bad. i found out that my rollers were flat spotted all of them and now it just rattles an knocks.
Hi guys today I was fixing my engine and and wend I start it, it had the same knocking noise. I'm going to check the valve springs and the EGR hose. I'm going to give you guys the heads up.
7 years later and you never gave us the heads up :-( lol
You mean 8 years now
Mine does that at 7200 km will try replacing the head, thanks.
yeh, found a broken valve spring. cost me about $70 to repair. rebuilt the top end of the motor then soled the bike.
ah im putting together 2 100cc gy6 this weekend i hope it being 4th in all
I had the same noise, but mine was the lower egr hose had come off. The one on the bottom under the valve cover.
have the same noise in mine but after it warms up it goes away and have never as yet had any loss of power though....hope to heck I don't have to pull the head and change the spring, dang it, but it does have that same sound...it sounds like a loose tappet but who knows
Before adjusting the valve clearance, u should remove the spark plug first to release compression at TDC..
Wait rly? I never knew that - does it really affect the mesurments?
@@Rainaman-no it doesnt, cam has no lift there even if its not spot on tdc
My engine was doing that a week ago after adjustment then it locked up partially when I gave it full throttle
nctrooper10722001, I had an broken inner valve spring, the cdi wasn't the problem. Got a new head from ebay and had it running right about an hour after receiving it. Sold the bike a month later.
adjust your valves
Actually @ about 2;00 minutes, it looks like yours is off too.
Redo valve ADJ change your oil
oil pump chain....if you open the engine side cover you will see where the oil pump chain is banging..
Would that be what's making little steel bits in the oil
It sounds like an exhaust leak
clutch
My Scooters enjin does the same but I didn't lost power
Same here. I put in an 80cc. I adjusted the valves. Checked everything. I’m wondering if it’s the valves themselves seating because it’s a new head (tight springs)?
I found the noise on my scooter it was The the Conrad he had play on the crankshaft so that mean the piston has broke so I put a new crankshaft in and now the oil doesn't come through to the rockers I think I've got a faulty oil pump I haven't checked it yet but if I do I will let you know I've bought a new piston kit and a barrel but my scooter is a 150 cc you must split the casing and you must put a new crankshaft.....
@@pietererasmus9528 there are no oil pumps on these unless you have something different. They are usually just “splash” systems. When the crankshaft turns, it will splash the oil around to lubricate everything. Maybe you have something a little better.
@@grazz7865these things would blow up in minutes without working oilpump installed, its the triangle shaped thing under the stator side case.
@@MrTrilob in the specifications, it says “splash” for oil.
Tensioner
valves
Valve clearances looser than katie price's fanny
valves hitting piston bro