If you are taking requests, I have a few ideas: 1) iron soles - how does it help/hurt 2) lie angle - how can it help/hurt 3) who might benefit from a thriver/mini driver
Welcome back! The biggest issue with fitting that I have found is two fold. First, if you are a larger grip player rarely do you ever try a club with your desired grip size. Secondly, once you dial in your swing with a regular grip, getting them regripped in your desired size will change the swing weight dramatically. I have found that the dreaded toe or heal strike has more to do with lie vs weight. The lie can change over time especially with forged clubs and this will drastically change turf interaction.
These are all really important, and I’m blown away when I don’t see fitters setup to try different grips. I mean it’s just that impactful, I would even go as far to say that should anyone ever go into a fitting establishment and find that they don’t have different size grips and or styles of grips to try, just politely leave before it starts.😀
Welcome back. I’ve always felt your content is good. Maybe do a video on putter fitting and the benefits of playing the correct putter shaft length/ style, etc.
Great topic. Fittings don’t look at swing weights in my experience. Another big issue is not being able to use your preferred grip. Would like to hear suggestions on how fittings should be done to allow for both grips and adjust grip swings g weights. My feeling is fittings are all but a waste of time, because things like swings weight, grips, lies, etc aren’t part of the process.
@@SwingFit I did too. Great vid. I'm going to find the best swing weight for my driver head. This is the first vid I found and the only one I needed to settle the debate I had going on in my head.
I will contend that certain club fitters fitting adapters alters SW too much to the heavy side. For example Club Champion irons almost always come out with big SW.
The KEY Element in this video is FINDING A QUALIFIED CLUB FITTER, many out there in stores that cant fit for shit !!!!!!!!! I have had several fittings in my years of playing , from PING, Kenneth Smith and PXG and these 3 I have found to be very qualified, went to a box store fitting place 10 years ago in my town and they manipulated the results of my old driver to the driver they were fitting me for , I bought that snake oil fitting for the cost od $500 bucks and they said I gained 23 yards with new driver, I went to my local course I have played for 30 years and ht the damn ball in the exact damn spots as with my old PING driver. MY 14 clubs are all PXG Fitted and I love them ! They got the clubs right. I still have my Custom Fit Kenneth Smith Blades from 1993 and I still play them very well too! Especially when my 63 year old body feels frisky to play them !! Shot a 3 under a week ago with them in a 20 MPH wind ..........LOL You dont always need new stuff when the old stuff was fitted correctly !!!!!!!!!
Won’t argue any of your points, in fact I will go as far to say that if a proper fitting is done the time in between club changes should increase, making the need to replace your clubs not as often. Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic vlog on swing weighting , but i would like to know your thoughts on if the wedges should be a couple of swing weight more than 3 to 9 iron or kept all the same ...?
This is a really good question I’ve found through the years that if the wedges come in two points heavier it can help more than not. I actually stumbled on this by accident and the reason why is the wedge heads are super heavy and trying to get them to check in at the same SW can more then not be really hard especially if you like to follow the one length thought process with your wedges where they don’t keep getting shorter. So when I build I will build everything from the PW and down at the exact same length and when I do this the wedges will as a result of them being a little longer bump up in SW. now for why I believe heavier is better comes down to control, feel and just helping the head motor through the rough when you need to. If you haven’t tried it would get some lead tape and add it to the hosel region and see if you like it.
Wondering what your thoughts are on this bag of clubs I just received from Callaway. I put them on a swing weight machine last night and this is what I found: Swing weights D3 - 4i,6i D4 - 5i,7i,9i D4.5 - 10i D5 - 8i, UW D6 - Dr D5.5 - 11i D7 - 54 D8 - 58
From my experience SW is very critical, I guess the good thing is you have a nice hodge podge set of swingweights to play around with and if I’m a betting man one of those clubs is going to be something that you hit better then anything else. Once you find it then I can say you found your ideal swingweight. 😀
@@SwingFit Am I correct in assuming that I should be then figuring out a way to get them all to be the same swing weight once I figure out which one i like?
Won’t argue that point at all, big box stores run fittings by the clock, and often end up doing their customers wrong as a result of rushing through the motions.
Iron bounce and lie angle, I never considered bounce until my current fitting, he prefers to do it old school using his eyes and not technology, spot on so far. My specs are +2 inches and 3 up with Modus 105 S shafts
This is a really good question for the most part bounce will be the same for all of your irons but what will be different is the sole designs on the irons, v-sole, slimmer soles, fatter soles and so on the thing we need to remember is the irons are really grass cutting instruments so it’s job should be to get in and out of the turf with the least amount of resistance. And the sole design play such a vital role with this. The number 1 determining factor really comes down to AOA and how shallow or steep your swing is. This will definitely make for a good video. Thanks for asking
Thanks again Vic. So just that we are on the same page there really is no such thing as a high bounce iron or a low bounce iron but what is unique or different is sole design. So if you are a picker then going with a sole that is semi wide like an Apex, JPX 923 Pro, P790 and maybe a ZX5 MK2, would be good options as you will need turf forgiveness and lower center of gravity meaning that you strikes will favor more lower in The head so all if these heads would be my likely choices for you.
Luis from Houston, Texas here. I watch your videos on a weekly basis and I have learned a lot from you. Do you know or recommend a good club fitter here in Texas? I did get my clubs fitted but I think they can be fine tuned.
I played with a set of irons at D2 and another at C5. I found that the left and right misses were 11% left and 13% right for both but the short misses were 6% better with the D2. I'm assuming that the D2 irons made better contact.
Hi.I purchased a set of irons that are 1/2 inch longer than standard and have AMT White s300 shafts..I hit them in the middle, but hit very deep divots and struggle to swing these heavy clubs.Question..If I cut the shafts to my fitting ,IE, standard 37 inch 7 iron, would these irons be usable? Thanks Nick..West Oz..
Looking forward to the video about weight. I'm not sure which way to go with my new driver. Lightweight with higher SW or heavier with lower SW 😀 Can a driver be too light? Best regards from Germany
Yes without question but I love the test and try method, as I can ensure you it will always be one or the other, it’s like flipping a coin, it’s either heads or tails, too heavy too light, too stiff too soft, too long too short.
hi love the amount of info you give in all your videos!! just quick question, would lighter swing weights always be easier to release through impact? ive been using a hand me down set and, at least for driver, i tend to drag the handle through impact rather than release my wrist angles. releasing it way too late. would a lighter swing weight help fix this? or could this just be a technique issue (ive only started playing 6 months ago) cheers!
Good question lighter SwingWeight could help or it could be the golf shaft being either too soft or too heavy. Well at least this would be my thought process.
Yes there is a difference, outdoors is messier, dirtier and can often lead to more outliers especially when I’m working with mid to high handicappers. Explanation is not being able to control low point, one shot they may pick the ball clean, another they make clip the grass, and a third shot may be a long deep beaver tail. The other thing i personally don’t like about outdoor fittings is the unpredictability of the weather. So having done both, indoors in my personal opinion offers a more consistent controlled environment to test from.
interesting, I have a 3iron ,head feels very light, really, have trouble feeling the head weight, shaft is light too, grip end feels the heaviest. find I have to work harder or swing faster to close face and get distance. I play Srixon Z785 but I found a broken callaway , someone broke their shaft and dumped the club. I could only fit a 120g shaft on the XL head because of the shaft dynamiter, and the head feels heavy as, I don't have to swing it anywhere near as fast, it draws more but gives me 200+m I would love to see you work through lie angles. When I got my 785's, he asked me what lie I wanted, I had no Idea what I should have , I said Neutral. he gave me neutral, Surly he should have given me test swings to see which was best for my swing? thanks for your review, it did help me understand what I should be looking for.Cheers
A lot of request for Lie angles, so a video is coming for sure stay tuned. In the mean time if you have access to a proshop or fitter I would be curious what the SW is on the one your using now versus the other. The answer will lie with the difference. Is it total weight, SW, or maybe even balance point in the flex. The cool thing is there is something different we just need to dig a little to noodle through it, report back if you are able to find out anything.
Question: Would you like to demo the Jaxon Golf Mark X Putter in one or all 4 of its 4 USGA-conforming configurations? We'll be at the Northeast Golf Show in March, but I'd love to branch out and get my putter design in the hands of professional club fitters. LMK the best way to message and collaborate, cheers and thanks for the great content!
So i use +1.25" iron shafts. Currently kbs $ 130 woth jbmax ultralight grips. Its reaking havoc on my body and i cant close the face. Since using a longer shaft should i go with a lighter 105 shaft? Also normal shafts id use stiff. Should i stick with stiff when 1.25" long or should i go with x flex. Hard to get fit when nowhere has the right equipment to fit me. Please help.
As a golfer I feel a difference when the same head weights are shifted from the heal (draw) to toe (fade). Can you show this in swing weight and shaft CPM flex tests? If myself and others can feel it, these club characteristics must be changing?
Really good question but unfortunately when we simply position the mass around in the head I find that it really doesn’t impact the SW characteristics. Explanation the scale we use really only cares about heft, and where it’s located head versus handle, but what I will tell you is that moving the weight from heel to toe or the other way around will affect how fast the face squares up. As a side note the heel setting although it says it’s a draw doesn’t always produce a draw for all golfers.😀 but what I will tell you one will always feel better then the other because if you can square it up just right you will get better contact and more center of face strikes. So when I take my customers through the fit process I just try both settings and will measure the differences.
@@SwingFit That surprises me because we hear a lot about counter balance shafts where the weight in the shaft moves closer to the grip and that weight within the shaft alone is barely a couple of gram. Even then the weight shift is only a matter of 1/2" or so within the shafts weave structure. We are then told we could add 2g or so to the head and retain the same swing weight as per a none CB shaft. Using a cobra Aerojet LS driver as an example we're referring to a 12g and a 3g. When we move from draw to fade we effectively move the 12g outwards and 3g inwards. That's the equivalent of 9g being moved perhaps an inch further away from the grip. Total club weight would remain the same, however balance point would move closer to the grip. I'll experiment and report back.
@@SwingFit That surprises me because we hear a lot about counter balance shafts where the weight in the shaft moves closer to the grip and that weight within the shaft alone is barely a couple of gram. Even then the weight shift is only a matter of 1/2" or so within the shafts weave structure. We are then told we could add 2g or so to the head and retain the same swing weight as per a none CB shaft. Using a cobra Aerojet LS driver as an example we're referring to a 12g and a 3g. When we move from draw to fade we effectively move the 12g outwards and 3g inwards. That's the equivalent of 9g being moved perhaps an inch further away from the grip. Total club weight would remain the same, however balance point would move closer to the grip. I'll experiment and report back.
A quick test on a both an Aerojet LS 10.5 driver and Aerojet LS 3 wood last night. Driver first, total weight remained constant at 317g. Draw setting the balance point was 855mm from grip end giving a swing weight of D3.6. With weight out towards the toe the balance point moved to 864mm from the grip, and gave a resultant swing weight of D5.9 Quite a change!! So next up Aerojet LS 3 wood, total club weight 327g. In draw setting the balance point was 834mm from grip giving D2.1 and in fade setting the balance point had moved to 838mm giving D3.2 So from these very basic tests, yes the swing weight is effected by moving the head weights. There's a whole host of other tests which could be done which are player orientated and how they react/perform to different swing weights.
Ok. I am confused with my set up. Overall driver weight is 359g SW is C6.5. Uggg Tsi3 head. 198 g Oversized CP2 grip 80g Titleist tip 9 grams That leaves my Tensei pro 1k white 50 tx shaft at 72-73 grams??? Like i dont get it. It is a 50 gram shaft, Mitsubishi says the 50 tx is 61 grams raw. Do you think my shaft is labeled wrong? How would you get my swing weight back to D territory. I don’t really want a 370-80 gram driver by adding rat glue. I am strong but am 50 yrs old with 113-116 ss Thanks for your input. I love your videos. Glad you’re back. Cheers Tod
The TSI 3 has the ability to add more mass in the head via the weights in the sliding track, and almost always I will go with a double weight configuration to get me there especially if I’m using the CP2 jumbos. To bring SW up you’re going to need to add an additional 12 grams to the head. Reach out via the link in the description and send me your contact details.
So the total weight of the club is important but not near as important as the distribution of the weight. So I would focus less on the impact of the total more than I would on the SW for this situation. If you look in the description of the video there is a link to submit a question just use that to send me any details.
I have a question for you. I have the one length irons. I am getting swing weights from c2 c3 c6. That's the ones I checked. The website says the should be d0. I have heard all your irons should be the same swing weight. Should I try to get them all to d0 and how for up the set should you go. They do have different swing weights for the PW and GW at d1 Thanks
@@SwingFit These are the grips that came with the clubs from cobra. Just standard grips. I did not touch them out of the box and noticed I was playing army style golf. I then decided to swing weight them. The 6I was C6 7I C3 and 8I C2. those are the ones I checked.
Well you’re the third person that has mentioned it so I bought myself a MOI machine and I’m going to put it to the test. Because from what I know the head weights are going to change and it’s not uncommon for you to have mismatched SW’s throughout your set and what I can share based on my experience thus far is a headweight that is as much as 3 grams in either direction will affect someone’s ability to release the club, so although Im a little skeptical, I’m not locked in if testing and the data tells me other wise. Thanks for sharing.
@@SwingFit I'm curious how your Auditor MOI machine is working out. I MOI'd my clubs and used 3/8" length gapping, love'em, I used my digital SW machine and used a formula(.45SW for each 3/8") to figure each one out.
As a bigger grip player (palm a basketball hands) hitting anything with a normal grip is never going to give me the honest experience of a club fitting. Then add a larger grip and watch swingweight go nuts and it’s basically a useless experience to even hit a demo club at this point.
hello, I'm 5 hdc, and I'm no less because I miss a lot of greens and always in the same way, always to the left, especially with short irons, I have a lot of tendency to close the head of the iron, but the theory that the heel comes in first on the grass and closes the head of the iron, in my case it's not that, on the contrary, when I do dropping shaft, the toe goes in first, besides I can't stop doing dropping shaft, I can't stop sending balls to the left How do I solve this?
Such a good question. One of the things we need to understand is that as the clubs get shorter the more upright the swing will get and when you present the closed face like you are the tendency would be to move more left like you are seeing. So if we understand that the root cause is really predicated on the excessive face closure, then I know I need to try and offset it by slowing the wrist down. So the number one way I would attack it would be first with grip size, here I would try going the next size up and then I would have you try and keep the back of the glove hand square to the target longer. What’s crazy about this is the larger grip will make the back of hand move so much easier and will require less effort. Secondly I would try maybe a little heavier weighted shaft if you’re not already in a heavier shaft now. Last would be to try increasing the SW by 3-4 points so 6-8 additional grams of weight in the hosel region to see if that doesn’t help. Let me know if you have any other questions or if you have tried them in the past and what your results were.
@@SwingFit Hi, I already tested this grip for Mid size, it improved a little, I use KBS $ Taper Lite 100 S, but I know that in Fitting it would give heavier shafts, I'm 49 years old, but I'm in good physical shape and I still have a fast swing , mainly my transition, despite being short, a 7 iron I hit for 155/160 meters, I remember that I used to use Ns Pro 880 GH Stiff shafts, and it was completely the opposite, all the shots went to the right, I have it easy I have to change the lofts and lies of the irons and change rods, because I have all these tools at home, I've already made several adjustments to the hand grip, but I continue to close the iron head at the moment of impact, I use the Mizuno Pro 225
At that distance I’m going to suspect that your swing speed with 7 iron is hovering around 90-93. At your speed I do think you could sneak into a 115 to 120 gram weighted shaft, and the two shafts I would love to try based on your feedback and the current gamers would be the PX LZ shafts or the Nippon 120. The reason is both of those shafts have a softer mid section, which could help with keeping the head open a little longer at your speed. Have you tried either one of those shafts?
@@SwingFit hello, I don't like the LZ, I never liked it, I think it's a shaft with little “power”, the best results I had were with the S Taper 120, the Elevate 120 and the Modus 120, and I just never fitted these shafts in my irons because Sometimes I spend all day playing golf with a bag on my back, and any of those shafts would “blow me out 😂”, another thing I can't get rid of is the dropping shaft, so much so that I actually had to change the lies on my irons , in the past I used Flat, and now I have to have the Square or Up Right irons, but when I put Up Right, I still put the ball on the left, the problem here in Portugal is that there is no good Fitting club, Fitting in Portugal is all based on distances achieved, they don't care about Club path, smash factor, descent angle, spin, it's just to sell based on distance which shows the simulator, sorry for my English
So you are definitely throwing me some curve balls but really all good ones. Where does the problem start 8, 9 iron, PW or lower? And does the problem get worse as you go lower in the bag?
If you are taking requests, I have a few ideas:
1) iron soles - how does it help/hurt
2) lie angle - how can it help/hurt
3) who might benefit from a thriver/mini driver
My man all good requests and suggestions.
I really like the ideas, especially iron sole width.
Welcome back! The biggest issue with fitting that I have found is two fold. First, if you are a larger grip player rarely do you ever try a club with your desired grip size. Secondly, once you dial in your swing with a regular grip, getting them regripped in your desired size will change the swing weight dramatically. I have found that the dreaded toe or heal strike has more to do with lie vs weight. The lie can change over time especially with forged clubs and this will drastically change turf interaction.
These are all really important, and I’m blown away when I don’t see fitters setup to try different grips. I mean it’s just that impactful, I would even go as far to say that should anyone ever go into a fitting establishment and find that they don’t have different size grips and or styles of grips to try, just politely leave before it starts.😀
Jumbomax Zen Lite grips are massive and are about the same weight as a regular grip, 62 grams
Great to see ya back at it really like your approach to fitting
Thanks it is good to be back for sure.
Welcome back. I’ve always felt your content is good. Maybe do a video on putter fitting and the benefits of playing the correct putter shaft length/ style, etc.
We received a lot of requests for Putter fitting, so this one is for sure in the works. Thanks for the support.
Awesome to see a new video out , missed you guys !
Thanks bud more videos are on the way.
Welcome back, John! We missed you.
Thanks it’s been far too long.
Great topic. Fittings don’t look at swing weights in my experience. Another big issue is not being able to use your preferred grip. Would like to hear suggestions on how fittings should be done to allow for both grips and adjust grip swings g weights. My feeling is fittings are all but a waste of time, because things like swings weight, grips, lies, etc aren’t part of the process.
Such a great point and will make for an interesting video, SW and grip is the last thing we dial in during our fit process.
Subscribed just after hearing the intro. Looking forward to the content!
Thanks for the support.
@@SwingFit I did too. Great vid. I'm going to find the best swing weight for my driver head. This is the first vid I found and the only one I needed to settle the debate I had going on in my head.
@@JayJay-jx3zg if you have a hard time finding the weights just let me know and I may be able to find it for you.
Glad your back, always enjoyed your content
I appreciate that!
You explained that very well
Thank you.
I will contend that certain club fitters fitting adapters alters SW too much to the heavy side. For example Club Champion irons almost always come out with big SW.
Yep and god for bid you need an extra 1/2 inch. SW is going to check in at E0😀
Great to see new videos.
Definitely more to come for sure.
The KEY Element in this video is FINDING A QUALIFIED CLUB FITTER, many out there in stores that cant fit for shit !!!!!!!!!
I have had several fittings in my years of playing , from PING, Kenneth Smith and PXG and these 3 I have found to be very qualified, went to a box store fitting place 10 years ago in my town and they manipulated the results of my old driver to the driver they were fitting me for , I bought that snake oil fitting for the cost od $500 bucks and they said I gained 23 yards with new driver, I went to my local course I have played for 30 years and ht the damn ball in the exact damn spots as with my old PING driver.
MY 14 clubs are all PXG Fitted and I love them ! They got the clubs right.
I still have my Custom Fit Kenneth Smith Blades from 1993 and I still play them very well too! Especially when my 63 year old body feels frisky to play them !! Shot a 3 under a week ago with them in a 20 MPH wind ..........LOL You dont always need new stuff when the old stuff was fitted correctly !!!!!!!!!
Won’t argue any of your points, in fact I will go as far to say that if a proper fitting is done the time in between club changes should increase, making the need to replace your clubs not as often. Thanks for sharing.
yep
Fantastic vlog on swing weighting , but i would like to know your thoughts on if the wedges should be a couple of swing weight more than 3 to 9 iron or kept all the same ...?
This is a really good question I’ve found through the years that if the wedges come in two points heavier it can help more than not. I actually stumbled on this by accident and the reason why is the wedge heads are super heavy and trying to get them to check in at the same SW can more then not be really hard especially if you like to follow the one length thought process with your wedges where they don’t keep getting shorter. So when I build I will build everything from the PW and down at the exact same length and when I do this the wedges will as a result of them being a little longer bump up in SW. now for why I believe heavier is better comes down to control, feel and just helping the head motor through the rough when you need to. If you haven’t tried it would get some lead tape and add it to the hosel region and see if you like it.
@@SwingFit thank you for your reply and the great info .
Wondering what your thoughts are on this bag of clubs I just received from Callaway. I put them on a swing weight machine last night and this is what I found: Swing weights
D3 - 4i,6i
D4 - 5i,7i,9i
D4.5 - 10i
D5 - 8i, UW
D6 - Dr
D5.5 - 11i
D7 - 54
D8 - 58
From my experience SW is very critical, I guess the good thing is you have a nice hodge podge set of swingweights to play around with and if I’m a betting man one of those clubs is going to be something that you hit better then anything else. Once you find it then I can say you found your ideal swingweight. 😀
@@SwingFit Am I correct in assuming that I should be then figuring out a way to get them all to be the same swing weight once I figure out which one i like?
@@drawdy10 yes especially if you find that one of them performs way better then anything else.
They don't do Swingweight at the end of Fitting Session because they are urgently trying finalise a Sale
Won’t argue that point at all, big box stores run fittings by the clock, and often end up doing their customers wrong as a result of rushing through the motions.
Iron bounce and lie angle, I never considered bounce until my current fitting, he prefers to do it old school using his eyes and not technology, spot on so far. My specs are +2 inches and 3 up with Modus 105 S shafts
Are you 7' tall
@@earlfultz8603 6"5', 36 inch inseam and XXXL Footjoy glove
This is a really good question for the most part bounce will be the same for all of your irons but what will be different is the sole designs on the irons, v-sole, slimmer soles, fatter soles and so on the thing we need to remember is the irons are really grass cutting instruments so it’s job should be to get in and out of the turf with the least amount of resistance. And the sole design play such a vital role with this. The number 1 determining factor really comes down to AOA and how shallow or steep your swing is. This will definitely make for a good video. Thanks for asking
@SwingFit since I am more of a sweeper of the club a low bounce iron would seem better to avoid hitting the ball fat
Thanks again Vic. So just that we are on the same page there really is no such thing as a high bounce iron or a low bounce iron but what is unique or different is sole design. So if you are a picker then going with a sole that is semi wide like an Apex, JPX 923 Pro, P790 and maybe a ZX5 MK2, would be good options as you will need turf forgiveness and lower center of gravity meaning that you strikes will favor more lower in The head so all if these heads would be my likely choices for you.
Luis from Houston, Texas here. I watch your videos on a weekly basis and I have learned a lot from you.
Do you know or recommend a good club fitter here in Texas? I did get my clubs fitted but I think they can be
fine tuned.
I unfortunately don’t have any connections in Texas. But you can always reach out as any of the advice we provide doesn’t cost you anything?
I played with a set of irons at D2 and another at C5. I found that the left and right misses were 11% left and 13% right for both but the short misses were 6% better with the D2. I'm assuming that the D2 irons made better contact.
That’s what I would assume as well. Thanks for sharing.
Hi.I purchased a set of irons that are 1/2 inch longer than standard and have AMT White s300 shafts..I hit them in the middle, but hit very deep divots and struggle to swing these heavy clubs.Question..If I cut the shafts to my fitting ,IE, standard 37 inch 7 iron, would these irons be usable? Thanks Nick..West Oz..
Looking forward to the video about weight. I'm not sure which way to go with my new driver. Lightweight with higher SW or heavier with lower SW 😀 Can a driver be too light? Best regards from Germany
Yes without question but I love the test and try method, as I can ensure you it will always be one or the other, it’s like flipping a coin, it’s either heads or tails, too heavy too light, too stiff too soft, too long too short.
hi love the amount of info you give in all your videos!! just quick question, would lighter swing weights always be easier to release through impact?
ive been using a hand me down set and, at least for driver, i tend to drag the handle through impact rather than release my wrist angles. releasing it way too late. would a lighter swing weight help fix this? or could this just be a technique issue (ive only started playing 6 months ago)
cheers!
Good question lighter SwingWeight could help or it could be the golf shaft being either too soft or too heavy. Well at least this would be my thought process.
Subbed! Thank you for listening!
Anytime and thanks for your support.
Can you do a video on putter swingweight. Thank you.
Without question. Thanks for the suggestion.
Can u do a comparison regarding indoor vs outdoor (grass) iron testing ? Is there a big difference?
Yes there is a difference, outdoors is messier, dirtier and can often lead to more outliers especially when I’m working with mid to high handicappers. Explanation is not being able to control low point, one shot they may pick the ball clean, another they make clip the grass, and a third shot may be a long deep beaver tail. The other thing i personally don’t like about outdoor fittings is the unpredictability of the weather. So having done both, indoors in my personal opinion offers a more consistent controlled environment to test from.
Swing weight or speedmatch? Which is better
I’m a firm believer that weight and balance is critical with improving consistency through the set. So I will always prefer SW approach.
interesting, I have a 3iron ,head feels very light, really, have trouble feeling the head weight, shaft is light too, grip end feels the heaviest. find I have to work harder or swing faster to close face and get distance.
I play Srixon Z785 but I found a broken callaway , someone broke their shaft and dumped the club. I could only fit a 120g shaft on the XL head because of the shaft dynamiter, and the head feels heavy as, I don't have to swing it anywhere near as fast, it draws more but gives me 200+m
I would love to see you work through lie angles.
When I got my 785's, he asked me what lie I wanted, I had no Idea what I should have , I said Neutral. he gave me neutral, Surly he should have given me test swings to see which was best for my swing? thanks for your review, it did help me understand what I should be looking for.Cheers
A lot of request for Lie angles, so a video is coming for sure stay tuned. In the mean time if you have access to a proshop or fitter I would be curious what the SW is on the one your using now versus the other. The answer will lie with the difference. Is it total weight, SW, or maybe even balance point in the flex. The cool thing is there is something different we just need to dig a little to noodle through it, report back if you are able to find out anything.
Question: Would you like to demo the Jaxon Golf Mark X Putter in one or all 4 of its 4 USGA-conforming configurations? We'll be at the Northeast Golf Show in March, but I'd love to branch out and get my putter design in the hands of professional club fitters. LMK the best way to message and collaborate, cheers and thanks for the great content!
So feel free to submit your request and details to orders@swingfit.net
So i use +1.25" iron shafts. Currently kbs $ 130 woth jbmax ultralight grips. Its reaking havoc on my body and i cant close the face. Since using a longer shaft should i go with a lighter 105 shaft? Also normal shafts id use stiff. Should i stick with stiff when 1.25" long or should i go with x flex. Hard to get fit when nowhere has the right equipment to fit me. Please help.
I would bump down in weight but stay XS as the extra 1.25 will make it play a touch softer.
As a golfer I feel a difference when the same head weights are shifted from the heal (draw) to toe (fade). Can you show this in swing weight and shaft CPM flex tests? If myself and others can feel it, these club characteristics must be changing?
Really good question but unfortunately when we simply position the mass around in the head I find that it really doesn’t impact the SW characteristics. Explanation the scale we use really only cares about heft, and where it’s located head versus handle, but what I will tell you is that moving the weight from heel to toe or the other way around will affect how fast the face squares up. As a side note the heel setting although it says it’s a draw doesn’t always produce a draw for all golfers.😀 but what I will tell you one will always feel better then the other because if you can square it up just right you will get better contact and more center of face strikes. So when I take my customers through the fit process I just try both settings and will measure the differences.
@@SwingFit That surprises me because we hear a lot about counter balance shafts where the weight in the shaft moves closer to the grip and that weight within the shaft alone is barely a couple of gram. Even then the weight shift is only a matter of 1/2" or so within the shafts weave structure. We are then told we could add 2g or so to the head and retain the same swing weight as per a none CB shaft. Using a cobra Aerojet LS driver as an example we're referring to a 12g and a 3g. When we move from draw to fade we effectively move the 12g outwards and 3g inwards. That's the equivalent of 9g being moved perhaps an inch further away from the grip. Total club weight would remain the same, however balance point would move closer to the grip. I'll experiment and report back.
@@SwingFit That surprises me because we hear a lot about counter balance shafts where the weight in the shaft moves closer to the grip and that weight within the shaft alone is barely a couple of gram. Even then the weight shift is only a matter of 1/2" or so within the shafts weave structure. We are then told we could add 2g or so to the head and retain the same swing weight as per a none CB shaft. Using a cobra Aerojet LS driver as an example we're referring to a 12g and a 3g. When we move from draw to fade we effectively move the 12g outwards and 3g inwards. That's the equivalent of 9g being moved perhaps an inch further away from the grip. Total club weight would remain the same, however balance point would move closer to the grip. I'll experiment and report back.
A quick test on a both an Aerojet LS 10.5 driver and Aerojet LS 3 wood last night. Driver first, total weight remained constant at 317g. Draw setting the balance point was 855mm from grip end giving a swing weight of D3.6. With weight out towards the toe the balance point moved to 864mm from the grip, and gave a resultant swing weight of D5.9 Quite a change!! So next up Aerojet LS 3 wood, total club weight 327g. In draw setting the balance point was 834mm from grip giving D2.1 and in fade setting the balance point had moved to 838mm giving D3.2 So from these very basic tests, yes the swing weight is effected by moving the head weights. There's a whole host of other tests which could be done which are player orientated and how they react/perform to different swing weights.
Consider me intrigued by your test. Thanks for sharing.
Ok. I am confused with my set up.
Overall driver weight is 359g
SW is C6.5. Uggg
Tsi3 head. 198 g
Oversized CP2 grip 80g
Titleist tip 9 grams
That leaves my Tensei pro 1k white 50 tx shaft at 72-73 grams??? Like i dont get it. It is a 50 gram shaft, Mitsubishi says the 50 tx is 61 grams raw.
Do you think my shaft is labeled wrong?
How would you get my swing weight back to D territory. I don’t really want a 370-80 gram driver by adding rat glue.
I am strong but am 50 yrs old with 113-116 ss
Thanks for your input. I love your videos. Glad you’re back.
Cheers
Tod
The TSI 3 has the ability to add more mass in the head via the weights in the sliding track, and almost always I will go with a double weight configuration to get me there especially if I’m using the CP2 jumbos. To bring SW up you’re going to need to add an additional 12 grams to the head. Reach out via the link in the description and send me your contact details.
@@SwingFit so going to 381 gram driver is ok? I have only read 330ish is standard.
@@SwingFit also. Where do I send my details haha. I am a bit tech dumb.
So the total weight of the club is important but not near as important as the distribution of the weight. So I would focus less on the impact of the total more than I would on the SW for this situation. If you look in the description of the video there is a link to submit a question just use that to send me any details.
I have a question for you. I have the one length irons. I am getting swing weights from c2 c3 c6. That's the ones I checked. The website says the should be d0. I have heard all your irons should be the same swing weight. Should I try to get them all to d0 and how for up the set should you go. They do have different swing weights for the PW and GW at d1 Thanks
If I’m a betting man it’s likely because of the grips you are using . At you playing jumbo grips if so which ones?
@@SwingFit These are the grips that came with the clubs from cobra. Just standard grips. I did not touch them out of the box and noticed I was playing army style golf. I then decided to swing weight them. The 6I was C6 7I C3 and 8I C2. those are the ones I checked.
I like this here
Thanks for the support.
👏👏👏👏
Actually MOI matching makes clubs feel the same more than swing weight matching.
Well you’re the third person that has mentioned it so I bought myself a MOI machine and I’m going to put it to the test. Because from what I know the head weights are going to change and it’s not uncommon for you to have mismatched SW’s throughout your set and what I can share based on my experience thus far is a headweight that is as much as 3 grams in either direction will affect someone’s ability to release the club, so although Im a little skeptical, I’m not locked in if testing and the data tells me other wise. Thanks for sharing.
@@SwingFit I'm curious how your Auditor MOI machine is working out. I MOI'd my clubs and used 3/8" length gapping, love'em, I used my digital SW machine and used a formula(.45SW for each 3/8") to figure each one out.
As a bigger grip player (palm a basketball hands) hitting anything with a normal grip is never going to give me the honest experience of a club fitting.
Then add a larger grip and watch swingweight go nuts and it’s basically a useless experience to even hit a demo club at this point.
So very true that’s why a majority of the fitters don’t even try to swap grips during the fit, but for us it’s as easy as eating an ice cream cone.
62 gram jumbomax grips for me, same weight as regular grips but massive, XXXL gloves here
Another question: could you do a deep dive on MOI-Matching a set of irons?
Moi matching is turning into a popular request so we very well may touch on this in the near future thanks for the suggestion.
hello, I'm 5 hdc, and I'm no less because I miss a lot of greens and always in the same way, always to the left, especially with short irons, I have a lot of tendency to close the head of the iron, but the theory that the heel comes in first on the grass and closes the head of the iron, in my case it's not that, on the contrary, when I do dropping shaft, the toe goes in first, besides I can't stop doing dropping shaft, I can't stop sending balls to the left How do I solve this?
Such a good question. One of the things we need to understand is that as the clubs get shorter the more upright the swing will get and when you present the closed face like you are the tendency would be to move more left like you are seeing. So if we understand that the root cause is really predicated on the excessive face closure, then I know I need to try and offset it by slowing the wrist down. So the number one way I would attack it would be first with grip size, here I would try going the next size up and then I would have you try and keep the back of the glove hand square to the target longer. What’s crazy about this is the larger grip will make the back of hand move so much easier and will require less effort. Secondly I would try maybe a little heavier weighted shaft if you’re not already in a heavier shaft now. Last would be to try increasing the SW by 3-4 points so 6-8 additional grams of weight in the hosel region to see if that doesn’t help. Let me know if you have any other questions or if you have tried them in the past and what your results were.
@@SwingFit Hi, I already tested this grip for Mid size, it improved a little, I use KBS $ Taper Lite 100 S, but I know that in Fitting it would give heavier shafts, I'm 49 years old, but I'm in good physical shape and I still have a fast swing , mainly my transition, despite being short, a 7 iron I hit for 155/160 meters, I remember that I used to use Ns Pro 880 GH Stiff shafts, and it was completely the opposite, all the shots went to the right, I have it easy I have to change the lofts and lies of the irons and change rods, because I have all these tools at home, I've already made several adjustments to the hand grip, but I continue to close the iron head at the moment of impact, I use the Mizuno Pro 225
At that distance I’m going to suspect that your swing speed with 7 iron is hovering around 90-93. At your speed I do think you could sneak into a 115 to 120 gram weighted shaft, and the two shafts I would love to try based on your feedback and the current gamers would be the PX LZ shafts or the Nippon 120. The reason is both of those shafts have a softer mid section, which could help with keeping the head open a little longer at your speed. Have you tried either one of those shafts?
@@SwingFit hello, I don't like the LZ, I never liked it, I think it's a shaft with little “power”, the best results I had were with the S Taper 120, the Elevate 120 and the Modus 120, and I just never fitted these shafts in my irons because Sometimes I spend all day playing golf with a bag on my back, and any of those shafts would “blow me out 😂”, another thing I can't get rid of is the dropping shaft, so much so that I actually had to change the lies on my irons , in the past I used Flat, and now I have to have the Square or Up Right irons, but when I put Up Right, I still put the ball on the left, the problem here in Portugal is that there is no good Fitting club, Fitting in Portugal is all based on distances achieved, they don't care about Club path, smash factor, descent angle, spin, it's just to sell based on distance which shows the simulator, sorry for my English
So you are definitely throwing me some curve balls but really all good ones. Where does the problem start 8, 9 iron, PW or lower? And does the problem get worse as you go lower in the bag?