That's the hard way and waste of time. Drop the tank not that hard and dont need to go cutting crap. Crawl underneath, unplug 2 wire connectors, 2 fuel lines, place pump jack under tank with a 2x6. Drop 2 bolts and lower tank. If tank is more than a 1/4 full, siphon the fuel out. Took me less than an hour in my driveway.
Nope - Trying that right now - Cannot get to all the hose connections sufficiently to seperate them, even with the tank lowered partway. I'm now grinding the Line-X liner off of the 6 bolts to get the bed off.
I had one person help me lift the bed off and just got it out of the way for comfortable access to the pump. Connectors always seem to be a problem for me. The hardest part seemed to be disconnecting the two electrical circuits without breaking the clip holding it to the frame. Thanks for recording and sharing this process. It helped me a lot in replacing a failing pump in my step-dad's '97 F150. Works great again now!
Best video out there for fixing that peski fuel pump on '98 f150 i've ever seen. There has never been a rusted in bolt that I have not been able to removed from anything. Most important is trying to heat the bolt and not the houses/nut. This makes the bolt expand into a non expanding housing/nut. when it cools the bolt will be left shrinking smaller this will allow the nut/housing remaining the same. They come out like butter when done correct. (been at it for 55 years)
I have removed fuel tanks on the side of the road before in the middle of August in Nowhere Fla, laying in sand and sand spurs on a Ford Explorer using the provided vehicle jack and some old boards found in the ditch, it ain't easy but, it can be done. I have also replaced wrecked Chevy truck beds too and had to torch every bed bolt to get them off, the bolts are not supposed to be taken out and they're designed that way so they do not loosen up over time and vibrations sorta like aero plane wing bolts .....
Just did this except since it was only me, i hooked a motor hoist to one side of the bed where the fuel pump is and raised it leaning the bed just high enough to get under it and swap the hat assembly out. Just disconnected everything according to this video. Took 1 hour max. just let it back down when done and bolt everything back together
Man I got to say after watching your video I was scared as F to attempt this and what I'd find. Luckily I'd left my factory bedliner in and 23~ years later my bed bolts were pristine and came loose with a 3/8 ratchet with a small cheater bar on it. Took less than 10 minutes to pull them all. tilt the bed up on the driver's side and go to town. Whole job took less than 3 hours working at a leisurely pace- thanks for the well documented disassembly and reinstall.
Thanks, This video is A good shout. I have ‘99 truck and I live in Alberta with no garage, -8 to -30 temp. Now I know what I’m up against... I would happily get stuck in, but not In this climate. just ring the shop to tow in and pay the man.
angle grind the bolt heads off. takes about ten min apiece max. you will have to replace them, it's about $60 a set with the frame attachments and nuts. just pulled my bed. pb blaster doesn't do jack as the underneath of the bolt is generally rusted a straight 1" exposed. expect to go through a few chrome t50s and get maybe half the bolts that way. the rest i cut with a 4.5 angle grinder cutting wheel on my truck and on the donor truck i just cutting torched the bottom of the bolt off. torching to loosen doesn't work with the way the nut is held on (so that it can be tightened and loosened from top only) it is close to the frame so on my truck i didn't want to torch without much visibility on my back. ...........on your drivers side, there will be a green ground with a separate 7 or 8mm into the frame near the spare. also if you have a hitch, there will be another electrical disconnect. a 6ft bed is about 200lbs, easily moved with two guys. take the damn tailgate off and save 50lbs. or cut a 2x6 to fit under the bedrails and use a hoist. it won't bend the bedrails.
lol why drop the tank or remove the bed, just slide out ya bed liner, and cut a access port in the bed, then cover it with a piece of metal and secure it with some self tappers. did that with my truck in the early 90's and used my easy access hatch recently. makes changing a pump real quick and easy
Good job! I have the same exact truck and problem, my f150 has 245,000 mi with original pump. It finally went out so I’m fixing to tackle this! Gonna try and use my engine hoist to raise bed off! Probably gonna replace bed bolts with stainless ones afterwards!
@@temujinkhan6326 hard starts and stumbles when giving lots of throttle! I couldn’t get some of my bed bolts out so I had to drop tank to replace! I had to cut the vent hose to make it easier to access the fuel lines to disconnect them. When I reinstalled tank I added extra long vent hose to make it easier!
This makes me think that my diagnostic is bad lol. My truck is A 4.2l v6 manual with less than 140k & crank no start out of nowhere one day after it sats for 6months. The kind of mileage you guys have before yours go out makes me think twice now lol 😂
Bed bolts need a tp50 socket, thats a torx 50 PLUS, , not a normal t50. And if upu spray the penetrating oil down below where the threads are, instead of 6 inches above at the bolt head, it works a lot better.
Slather those bed bolts with anti-seize on reinstall, or better yet BEFORE ya need to do a fuel pump. I did mine in 2004 when I got my truck. Fuel pump was good but I've done many for customers so I covered my azz. Pump just died (August 2021) and the bolts are still good to go.
Good visual, I would say 2 things. have an air compressor and wire brush near by to blow and remove any rust and debris that could fall into the tank. Also why the bed is off from the frame replace that stupid Drivers fuel pump sensing modular.
it's the worst when you hit a wall at the very beginning jsut taking bolts out. I don't know how mechanics do it. My shops would have holes in the walls and broken shit everywhere
I don't recommend using a drill next to the filler neck and especially on the fuel pump bolts. The motor can create sparks and ignite fuel vapors, which wouldn't be good!
Ah, that's the ongoing debate for which there will be no definite consensus. Many think so, but they tend to be from areas where rusting-out undercarriages don't occur as much as up in the Rust Belt areas...obviously. Look through the MANY videos on this subject and decide for yourself.
Any bolts or bed fasteners that don't want to come off-just brake em' from the bottom! Easier just to punch em' thru and replace em' with a hex bolt and a washer!
I’ll never get this job done because my jaw is apparently paralyzed and stuck in the open position from actuality watching this 80% of the way through waiting for the leprechaun to jump out and yell April fools !!!
Hahahhaa i was doing it now but im stuck because im alone trying to raise the bed. Beside the bolts, there is something else. When i raise one side, the other side remained plugged. 2 people told me "oh dont worry bed is light and u can do it urself: pffff what a lie" lol. Im still brainstorming
Hi physicsdrew9907, Question I have is what did you do to fix the "truck randomly shutting off" after replacing the fuel pump??? I have a 1998 F-150 3-door (v8 4.6 L). Appreciate any HELP :-)
@@Pajaro95076 yessir, i really would recommend changing that air mass flow sensor, it a really easy change and will get it right back to running properly
Awesome video man! Straight forward to the point! You don't explain everything like I'm a retard or using a tool for the first time. I was honestly relieved cuz I've done the fuel pump on a 300 Chrysler and dropping the tank was a pain in the dick so glad I watched this first! Subscribed!
kinda, but in reverse. leaking fuel means there's a leak that allows condensation in. or you got screwed getting water in your gas. the tank rusts and clogs the mesh filter on the fuel pump which over works it to failure. the pump will pump water and gas but if it sits long enough to rust then flakes are a real problem.
This is a waste of time you can get at everything from underneath the truck bed drop the straps with a jack and 2x4 under the tank and lower the tank to undo everything
Noooo asi no se hacee..solo se quitan los ajustadores que sostiene el tanque de gasolina y ya estando abajo en el suelo se cambia solamente el repuesto no toda la base..y listo se buelbe a subir con ayuda de un gato.😂😂😂
After removing the bed, I'm glad I didn't drop the tank. There are connectors that might be easy for someone with small hands to disconnect, but would have been a nightmare for me.
No need to remove the bed - remove the two straps underneath and drop the tank - they come out easy
Also if you have a full tank it's not going to be good to drop it, it would be pretty heavy.
Not if they're all rusted they don't.
That's the hard way and waste of time. Drop the tank not that hard and dont need to go cutting crap. Crawl underneath, unplug 2 wire connectors, 2 fuel lines, place pump jack under tank with a 2x6. Drop 2 bolts and lower tank. If tank is more than a 1/4 full, siphon the fuel out. Took me less than an hour in my driveway.
easier to drop tank if you have a good lift
Nope - Trying that right now - Cannot get to all the hose connections sufficiently to seperate them, even with the tank lowered partway. I'm now grinding the Line-X liner off of the 6 bolts to get the bed off.
I had one person help me lift the bed off and just got it out of the way for comfortable access to the pump. Connectors always seem to be a problem for me. The hardest part seemed to be disconnecting the two electrical circuits without breaking the clip holding it to the frame.
Thanks for recording and sharing this process. It helped me a lot in replacing a failing pump in my step-dad's '97 F150. Works great again now!
Best video out there for fixing that peski fuel pump on '98 f150 i've ever seen. There has never been a rusted in bolt that I have not been able to removed from anything. Most important is trying to heat the bolt and not the houses/nut. This makes the bolt expand into a non expanding housing/nut. when it cools the bolt will be left shrinking smaller this will allow the nut/housing remaining the same. They come out like butter when done correct. (been at it for 55 years)
Thats' a good tip Thanks a lot
I have removed fuel tanks on the side of the road before in the middle of August in Nowhere Fla, laying in sand and sand spurs on a Ford Explorer using the provided vehicle jack and some old boards found in the ditch, it ain't easy but, it can be done. I have also replaced wrecked Chevy truck beds too and had to torch every bed bolt to get them off, the bolts are not supposed to be taken out and they're designed that way so they do not loosen up over time and vibrations sorta like aero plane wing bolts .....
Thank you for the video
I changed by myself good tips to everyone.
Just did this except since it was only me, i hooked a motor hoist to one side of the bed where the fuel pump is and raised it leaning the bed just high enough to get under it and swap the hat assembly out. Just disconnected everything according to this video. Took 1 hour max. just let it back down when done and bolt everything back together
I'm a fan of cutting an access panel in the bed for easier removal of the pump. Since it has a bed liner anyway, you won't even see it.
That cross my mind
I looked at mine and there are cross beams that are in the way even if I were to cut a panel out. The beams are attached to the underside of bed.
@@thepresentmoment369 Nah, just cut on the forward (Cab) side of that beam and you can lift the pump out no problems.
thats what I do, did it to my 98 f150 and my 95 ram
Brothers twice totaled ford need a new pump. Might go that route
Man I got to say after watching your video I was scared as F to attempt this and what I'd find. Luckily I'd left my factory bedliner in and 23~ years later my bed bolts were pristine and came loose with a 3/8 ratchet with a small cheater bar on it. Took less than 10 minutes to pull them all. tilt the bed up on the driver's side and go to town.
Whole job took less than 3 hours working at a leisurely pace- thanks for the well documented disassembly and reinstall.
Best video I have seen in how to change the fuel pump in a 1997 f 150. Thanks a lot
Thanks, This video is A good shout. I have ‘99 truck and I live in Alberta with no garage, -8 to -30 temp. Now I know what I’m up against... I would happily get stuck in, but not In this climate. just ring the shop to tow in and pay the man.
angle grind the bolt heads off. takes about ten min apiece max. you will have to replace them, it's about $60 a set with the frame attachments and nuts. just pulled my bed. pb blaster doesn't do jack as the underneath of the bolt is generally rusted a straight 1" exposed. expect to go through a few chrome t50s and get maybe half the bolts that way. the rest i cut with a 4.5 angle grinder cutting wheel on my truck and on the donor truck i just cutting torched the bottom of the bolt off. torching to loosen doesn't work with the way the nut is held on (so that it can be tightened and loosened from top only) it is close to the frame so on my truck i didn't want to torch without much visibility on my back. ...........on your drivers side, there will be a green ground with a separate 7 or 8mm into the frame near the spare. also if you have a hitch, there will be another electrical disconnect. a 6ft bed is about 200lbs, easily moved with two guys. take the damn tailgate off and save 50lbs. or cut a 2x6 to fit under the bedrails and use a hoist. it won't bend the bedrails.
lol why drop the tank or remove the bed, just slide out ya bed liner, and cut a access port in the bed, then cover it with a piece of metal and secure it with some self tappers. did that with my truck in the early 90's and used my easy access hatch recently. makes changing a pump real quick and easy
Good job! I have the same exact truck and problem, my f150 has 245,000 mi with original pump. It finally went out so I’m fixing to tackle this! Gonna try and use my engine hoist to raise bed off! Probably gonna replace bed bolts with stainless ones afterwards!
i have one with 317,000 miles. I think the pump is going out. What was the signs that you had before it finally went out?
@@temujinkhan6326 hard starts and stumbles when giving lots of throttle! I couldn’t get some of my bed bolts out so I had to drop tank to replace! I had to cut the vent hose to make it easier to access the fuel lines to disconnect them. When I reinstalled tank I added extra long vent hose to make it easier!
This makes me think that my diagnostic is bad lol. My truck is A 4.2l v6 manual with less than 140k & crank no start out of nowhere one day after it sats for 6months. The kind of mileage you guys have before yours go out makes me think twice now lol 😂
Excellent Video!...Very informative showing how to do it w/o unneeded information.
Great Video Man, Looked like one of my projects. Damn rusted bolts, breaking/stripping out. Keep up the good work!
My truck's went out about a month ago......cost me 800 bucks. At least now I know how they fixed it and why it was an expensive repair.
great video, I just spent 900 bucks to have my pump replaced. Wish I had seen this ahead of time as I may have considered tackling myself.
Bed bolts need a tp50 socket, thats a torx 50 PLUS, , not a normal t50. And if upu spray the penetrating oil down below where the threads are, instead of 6 inches above at the bolt head, it works a lot better.
Correct! Ford uses Torx Plus and many a noob strips fasteners not knowing that.
the bolts were rusted to hell, no penetrating oil will fix that.
I'd be gasping with anger just trying to get the bed bolts out.im old and lost the joy of auto repair 30 yrs ago.
Wish dodge 2nd gen were that easy good video thanks
You don’t need to remove the bed entirely. All you have to do is slide the bed back enough to expose the fuel pump.
What all did you need to disconnect from the bed to move it that little bit?
Yup, I had to grind em off all! I replaced them with thee right size carriage bolts. Slathered liberally with antieze!
Thanks for the video. Good job.
I personally would like to clean the entire rigg forst 😎👍
Backhoe works good for lifting bed.
Thank you very much this video was of great help thank you
Slather those bed bolts with anti-seize on reinstall, or better yet BEFORE ya need to do a fuel pump. I did mine in 2004 when I got my truck. Fuel pump was good but I've done many for customers so I covered my azz. Pump just died (August 2021) and the bolts are still good to go.
I will have to do this soon. Though I've never heard of removing the bed, only dropping the tank.
I did this a while back. Removing the bed is the way to go, given that you have 3 friends help you lift off the bed.
I love you my brother thank you
Had to tack weld a nut to one of the bed bolts that would not budge and used a big wrench to remove it. Cut the nut off when you're done.
I would've had a Busch. But Coors is cool too.
Did you test start the truck before the bed was put back.
🤣👍
Pb blaster does not help if sprayed on top because the thread start about 1 inch down the bolt so spray pb blaster under.
Try Kano Kroil oil, best I've ever used for loosening stuck bolts.
Very helpfull
Nice job.
Thanks for the great video! I agree with the bed removal. Especially if the fuel pump decided to die with half a tank or more of fuel
Good visual, I would say 2 things. have an air compressor and wire brush near by to blow and remove any rust and debris that could fall into the tank. Also why the bed is off from the frame replace that stupid Drivers fuel pump sensing modular.
it's the worst when you hit a wall at the very beginning jsut taking bolts out. I don't know how mechanics do it. My shops would have holes in the walls and broken shit everywhere
Good job, but word of caution, no electric tools, BOOM!
WAAAY TO MUCH WORK. TAKING MY FORD TO THE MECHANIC. & DRINK THE REST OF THE DAY.
Hell yeah!
should clean pump cover first so crap doesnt fall in the tank
Looks like a pain in the ass just to get to the fuel pump
I just cut a Square in the bed with a cutting wheel. Bed liner wheel hide it anyway
I was about to do that, but my truck has a freaking cross member right over where the fuel pump is.
@@patricks.7951 , mine too. Sucks
I don't recommend using a drill next to the filler neck and especially on the fuel pump bolts. The motor can create sparks and ignite fuel vapors, which wouldn't be good!
hello guys what's the time for this job? thanks
sooo mine just went out i feel like in my 00’ f150 and i’m at 245k miles that must be the stopping point of all of the pumps
well you are doing great job !
that's bulshit for the company whose Builders the car have to be something they're too easy to come out
Are you up north?
Would it be possible to just drop the tank?
Ah, that's the ongoing debate for which there will be no definite consensus. Many think so, but they tend to be from areas where rusting-out undercarriages don't occur as much as up in the Rust Belt areas...obviously. Look through the MANY videos on this subject and decide for yourself.
is the connector at 8:04 for the taillights?.
Great video got 2 love a grinder what would u do with out them 😆 I'm a welder got 2 use my grinder on some shit everyday 😆
Any bolts or bed fasteners that don't want to come off-just brake em' from the bottom! Easier just to punch em' thru and replace em' with a hex bolt and a washer!
😂😂😂 they look like The Three Stooges trying to take the bed off
🤔 why didn't you just drop the tank it's only two bolts 🤦🎯
Connectors, man...damn connectors...
I’ll never get this job done because my jaw is apparently paralyzed and stuck in the open position from actuality watching this 80% of the way through waiting for the leprechaun to jump out and yell April fools !!!
Hahahhaa i was doing it now but im stuck because im alone trying to raise the bed. Beside the bolts, there is something else. When i raise one side, the other side remained plugged. 2 people told me "oh dont worry bed is light and u can do it urself: pffff what a lie" lol. Im still brainstorming
Nice video. I’m really not looking forward to doing this.
As you already know now. PB is not that good. Try liquid wrench. See project farm's video if you don't believe me.
did everything but the truck still shuts off randomly, the battery light comes on.
Hi physicsdrew9907, Question I have is what did you do to fix the "truck randomly shutting off" after replacing the fuel pump??? I have a 1998 F-150 3-door (v8 4.6 L). Appreciate any HELP :-)
@@Pajaro95076 i changed my air mass flow sensor, it was never the fuel pump, but still good to replace both
@@physicsdrew9907 .... Thank you for your prompt reply.... 🙂
@@Pajaro95076 yessir, i really would recommend changing that air mass flow sensor, it a really easy change and will get it right back to running properly
Easier to go from the bottom and drop the tank
Matt D Bark No... it’s. Not.
if you can get it up high enough and have a transmission jack. that's mechanic at a shop talk though not laying on your back at home MR. Bark
It is Easier dropping the tank and quicker too....
@@emilyarcher1547 yeah it is
@@4x4play4 good thing I do it in my shop
Awesome video man! Straight forward to the point! You don't explain everything like I'm a retard or using a tool for the first time. I was honestly relieved cuz I've done the fuel pump on a 300 Chrysler and dropping the tank was a pain in the dick so glad I watched this first! Subscribed!
I think just drop the fuel tank a better and faster
Someone said no and was suffering under there. Better deal with rusted on top than bottom 😂
Would leaking fuel be because of a bad fuel pump?
kinda, but in reverse. leaking fuel means there's a leak that allows condensation in. or you got screwed getting water in your gas. the tank rusts and clogs the mesh filter on the fuel pump which over works it to failure. the pump will pump water and gas but if it sits long enough to rust then flakes are a real problem.
@@4x4play4 Or some jackass drilled a hole in your tank.
This is a waste of time you can get at everything from underneath the truck bed drop the straps with a jack and 2x4 under the tank and lower the tank to undo everything
its slot easier to just take off the 2 nuts from the under the truck lol took me like 40mins to take everthing apart an put everything back to geither
I realized that haha.
Wouldn’t it be easier to just drop the fuel tank lol
Why not drop the tank. A lot less work and trouble
Coors light taste good.Ill have one of them anytime..But just one 😆
Noooo asi no se hacee..solo se quitan los ajustadores que sostiene el tanque de gasolina y ya estando abajo en el suelo se cambia solamente el repuesto no toda la base..y listo se buelbe a subir con ayuda de un gato.😂😂😂
Would of been easier to drop the tank
#1 I'm NOT cutting a hole in my bed that's way beyond STUPID
Removed bed? Are u crazy
just drop the tank
After removing the bed, I'm glad I didn't drop the tank. There are connectors that might be easy for someone with small hands to disconnect, but would have been a nightmare for me.
Buy A Chevy ! 😉
Coors light taste good.Ill have one of them anytime..But just one 😆