DIY Toy Hauler Ramp Rebuild (Water Damage?) Lippert Ramp Door Repair. No welding required.
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2021
- A complete rebuild of my 2015 Raptor rear ramp door. Should work on any Lippert Door but double check the thickness of wood you need, they may vary? It was completely rotted out and needed to be fixed. This video shows exactly how we rebuilt and added extra support to our ramp. From start to finish took about a week and cost about $550 all in and that's with the crazy wood shortage we are in (wood alone was $380). Thanks for watching! If you have any questions please let me know in the comments.
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In the process now, great video. Is it super heavy to lift up ?
Hey Mike hope it goes well. To answer your question yes it much heavier (4 sheets of ply wood is not light) if I had to go back and do it again I would do a sheet of 4x8 insulation panels (you can buy this at Home Depot finding the correct thickness will be the hardest part) in between the back fiberglass and top ply wood to help with the weight. Instead of 2 sheets of ply wood. The main support for the ramp comes from the aluminum frame so keep that in mind. I have not done this before so do at your own risk but that’s basically how they come from the factory. If you do this please let me know how it comes out. Thanks for watching. Any questions please don’t hesitate 🙏🏻
@@The_Saylor_Adventures okay so I built mine with two 4x8 sheets of 3/4 oak plywood and a 1/2" cellulose insulation. It is heavy to lift up but manageable for one person. I resealed every bolt, screw, seam and gasket with 100% silicone. Thank you for your video, because without it I would have been hesitant to do by myself. It cost me $237.00
@@Bucksandkids awesome man!!! So glad everything worked out!!! And glad you decided to go with the inspection sheets. When I did mine it was pretty heavy to lift. Would usually have my brother help.
Any issues since you did this?
I will probably be doing mine this week, still debating on 2 sheets of plywood, or 1/2" foam, and the 23/32 sheet.
Did the ply wood swell up at all ?
Just purchased the same Rapture trailer and I’m already pre planning to do mine. I’m glad to see your video because I had no idea how it’s constructed. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
You're right -- I haven't seen any other videos describing how to rebuild a patio door. So we have you to thank for helping the rest of us. I'm glad your project turned out well. Safe travels, and thanks again for the great video!
Thanks for watching Tom!
Nice job!
My husband and I going to rebuild our Puma toy hauler ramp, so we really appreciated this video!
Thank you for making it.
Thanks so much! Good luck
@Tammy Kiser-Walls did you already rebuild your puma door? I have a puma as well and was wondering if you could tell me if the puma was a similar foam construction?
@@jacobjaramillo6996 I have a 2015 PUMA 356QLB and had to rebuild it. It is the same construction as shown here. I used One sheet of plywood and the rest foam to try to limit the extra weight. We had to rebuild ours because it was buckling from loading and unloading our RZR (NOT water damage). We rebuilt ours about 4 years ago and it's already buckling again. If I were going to do it over again I'd either rebuild it like the video shows here or just do it with only foam to limit the weight and then create a "jackstand" on each edge of the outside of the door (about in the middle) to prevent it from buckling when loading and unloading. Honestly the extra weight becomes a nightmare if you use your camper very often at all so honestly I'd just rebuild it with foam and add the supports on the outside for when loading and unloading. If there is water damage in the future it won't matter what material it's built out of as any of it will rot.
Great video mine is leaking at the top seal. Hopefully all I need is some chalking or replace the top weather-stripping.
Will be using your video as a reference to redo the side patio on my Grand Design 399TH.
Awesome! Thanks again for watching!
Nice job, I need to do the same thing for my toyhauler. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Make sure you pick a weekend/week that’s not going to rain. The overall job does not take long but waiting for the glue to dry seems to take up most of the time. Good luck 🙏🏻
Great video! 👍👍
i am blown away by how little there was to the original door
Its wild right! You think the manufactures could figure out a better way. Anyhow Thanks for watching!
Saving for our 29RKP side patio rebuild. Thank you thank you for this great video!
Awesome! Sorry for the late response. But glad I could help! Any questions please let me know 🙏🏻
@@The_Saylor_Adventures not to worry. Life is busy. 😃
I’ve seen a couple mount a small winch with a release cable to lower/raise the door. Saw one in action that works well. Mounted center top
Like this? Adding a power winch to a RV toy hauler ramp door. Up and Down with a button? Yup!
ua-cam.com/video/NVljhN9a2JU/v-deo.html
Great job 👍
Thanks Ricardo!
I’m not sure but I think my 2011 work and play has aluminum framing inside the door.Blows my mind yours only had foam board.And 3k lb rated,wow.Got a 17 Nitro XLR now.Gona check the doors sealant now pronto !Hell of a good job man!
Hey Scott
I know its crazy! Only foam so insane! But thanks for watching!
I'm opening up my work and play door now because the hinges started blowing through the fiberglass at the bottom of the door. So far I got the bottom cover off and with light I can see about a foot and a half up the door, nothing but white styrofoam.
@Encinitas678 and to my surprise it only had 1 square tube of aluminum along the bottom.
@@The_Saylor_Adventuresand my work and play is also a 2011. It's hard to believe this thing is all styrofoam inside
Great job
Thanks!
great job!
Thanks for watching Johnny!
Thank you!
No problem! Good luck 🙏🏻
Had to do the same thing to my 2006 raptor got a 120 volt winch from harbor freight fafab a bracket for the top of the frame inside and put a I hook on the ramp to open and close works great
Thanks for checking out my video. I actually did the same exact thing. Here’s the video on that. ua-cam.com/video/NVljhN9a2JU/v-deo.html
Can’t believe these only have a thin sheet of wood and foam inside. Need to redo mine I don’t have the fiberglass outer piece. Just empty frame. Was thinking 2 1/4 thick sheets of plywood and 1 inch of foam to save weight but that don’t seem like it would even be strong enough to walk on. Thought about 2x10s or thicker ply wood but that would end up pretty heavy.
Looks great
Thank you! 🙏🏻
Great job. I have the exact same issue with my Razor. I was thinking of making it out of aluminum. I rebuilt a compartment door and it eventually leaked and rotted.
Did you do it yet?
Any ideas on how to remove the from off the door, I see it took you awhile, mines seem to be welded on, I have a 2016 Jayco Octane
Please give me the information on the sliding screen door!
Great job..Just noticed my 2018 wolfpack 24 has some softness on the bottom of the door..I'm gonna try to take off the door and pop off the trim..We shall see..
My lumber yard has marine grade ply. Getting ready to do my 2008 raptor. My uncle said to use recycled aluminum bleacher seating... he did that on his open trailer deck. Probably just what the new aluminum trailers use nowadays. Thoughts? Not very insulated if I use aluminum seating. I think they are too think though.
Hey James, Thanks for watching.
Aluminum bleacher seating would probably work great and help significantly with the weight. My only concern would be how thick they are?!?! This was the hardest part in my build (getting the correct thickness). That would probably be a great alternative to just ply wood or ply wood and part foam/insulation. Please let us know how it turns out.
Job well done!! Great documenting it will help. Two questions is did you notice any tongue weight difference towing because of the additional weight on the tail? What's the estimated weight difference between the two doors, if you had to guess? thanks again.
Hey! I did not notice a difference in tongue weight or pulling. The weight was significant probably 150-200lbs heaver. It was hard to close by myself hints why I opted to install a winch to help pull the door up (I have a video on it, I will post the link at the bottom) It not only helped pull the door up but was a huge security feature. You literary could not open the door unless you let out the winch. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/NVljhN9a2JU/v-deo.html
Nice video, would it be worth drilling a pattern of 2 or 3 inch holes in the plywood before assembly to lighten the door?
That might help. I would recommend using part ply wood and part sheet foam to help with the weight (Check out the top comment I was talking with another guy about this idea) But holes might? No idea. If you do please share so we can continue helping other people with this same problem. Thanks and good luck
Great job. I have the same problem with the door on the side patio of my trailer. Any suggestion on where I could take mine to have this done? I don't have the space or the tools to complete such a job. I would take it to the dealer but they just want to sell me a new side door. I don't even want to know how much that would cost. My trailer is only 2 years old and the patio door is already rotting out like yours did so why would I want to replace it with the same type of door that's just going to rot out again in a couple years. the only thing I would do that you didn't would be to seal both sides and edges of the plywood with marine epoxy to prevent the wood from rotting. I have tried sealing every seam to prevent water from getting in but it still seems to be getting in somewhere because the floor has gotten progressively worse.
Hey! Sorry about your door, its a pain in the butt for sure. I honestly have no Idea who you can take it to. Maybe you can find a good local handyman in your area and show him this video to start with? Anyhow good luck, hopefully you can get it all fixed up! Thanks again for watching!
Mine cracked in the middle, so I thought about doing an insurance claim but I'd just get the same door? So I've been thinking about doing something like this as well.
Do a insurance claim Lippert now have a water proof door just ask for that one but I think it will that one cause they made one because of all the Complaints they got I remember every manufacturer used lippert door
What type of weather seal did you end up using
Did you find out where the leak started from??? Mine started with a leaking in the roof that went into the garage floor then the door soaked it up like a sponge... It's amazing how much they charge for these and the craftsmanship is pure sh**...
Did you have to make any adjustments to the cables or cable mounts for the added weight?
I did not. Have had it out several times with no problems. The original ramp had a rating of 3000 lbs so I feel it’s probably fine.
Why didnt you silicone the bolt holes?
All the rest looks awesome
I actually did add silicone around the bolts later on. Yes great recommendation.
I appreciate the video, I have an issue with the door near the middle hinges water leaked into door. Seen other videos this ones easy to relate and doable! Questions; what was the weight difference between doors? Is lifting door now more difficult? Congrats on the job.
Hey Carl so yes the door is significantly heavier. I can still lift it up myself but its heavy!!! If I could do it over again I would use a thin layer of wood for the top and find some high density foam to put in between the fiberglass and new layer of wood to help with the weight. The actual strength of the door comes from the frame. I ended up putting in a winch to help pull up the door. So now it does not matter. This is still cheaper then buying a new door lol but good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Here is the link for the winch I put in:
ua-cam.com/video/NVljhN9a2JU/v-deo.html
@@The_Saylor_Adventures thanks for the response, and suggestion. TBC 👍
@@carlwhite5436 No Problem!!! Good luck with this project. Would recommend finding a week that has no rain in the forecast and go for it! Thanks for watching
This is super helpful. I have this trailer and this exact problem. How did you get the springs at the bottom of the door back in place? Did you have to hold them down while you put the door in place? Thank you for the video. It really helps!
So it’s been a couple years so I don’t exactly remember 100% but I believe I just unbolted the brackets that were attached to the door itself and basically slide it out, this way when you put the door back on you can use the door as leverage to push the springs out. Although I don’t remember them having a ton of tension while the door is straight up.
Check timestamp 4:05 in the video for a little more info.
How did you flex the hinge springs to get the door back on?
They have a little play and did not need to flex them at all when we put the door back on.
Any ideas on where your leak was coming from? My door has just barely started to show signs of water damage on the inside along the bottom inch. Mostly in the center. I'm not sure where that much water could be getting in from?
I believe it stared leaking from the top down just based on how rotted the bottom was.
Just asking how hard is to remove the door and the door hinges has tension. I’m planning to remove my from my stealth toy hauler
Same question. Any video of removing and replacing the springs?
Do you have the complete supply list you could post?
I’m sorry I don’t. The video has everything needed to complete the job tho. If you have any other questions please let me know
Are you telling me there was no wood or aluminum tubing in the middle of the door? Only around the outside?
Yup! It’s crazy right! I could not believe it once I actually pulled it all apart. I have had several friends with the same problem and yeah no wonder! If any water gets into the foam it’s junk…. Hopefully this video help you. You have any other questions please don’t hesitate to hit me up.
I have the same problem that you had. Mine is a fuzmion. I bought the loctite Max premium but it is too thick to get out with the calking gun. I called the factory and they said it is supposed to be a thick paste.
Did you have trouble spreading it?
Hey so sorry for the late response. Yes it was a pain in the butt to spread and we did it on a super hot day 95+ degree outside and it was still hard.
how many man hours you have in this ?
Im having an issue with a repair shop right neo thay did this to my ramp, but the work is horrible! There was half inch gap around the entire inside frame i could stick my fingers in. I have pics but cant load to coments.. they filled the gaps with thick globs of silicon.. and they destroyed the ramp floors grip tape, and replaced it with 4 squares of chrome dyno plate.. it is really ugly and wood is exposed..and the WEIGHT ON IT!!!! NO WAY YOU OR I COULD OPEN OR CLOSE IT WITH ONE HAND.. IT IS BEYOND HEAVY,and they added 2 springs to the door... still increadibly heavy
Hey Sorry @Fallenicons24 just saw this comment. What did you end up doing?
Do a insurance claim Lippert now have a water proof ramp door
Unfortunately my insurance would not cover it.
@@The_Saylor_Adventures damn ok sorry about that