I would check continuity with a multimeter on every fuse. Even if it looks good, it can sometimes have a tiny separation that’s impossible to see with the naked eye
strangely they like to pop inside the metal cap area...so you dont see the pop and it looks perfect. the low amp ones often have the fine wire resting against the glass when they pop (they should float)
Few tips I can add for other amateur repairmen: - Get yourself a non conductive screwdriver. If you touch two parts at the same time (especially before discharging) you're going to pass electricity through them. It gets tight in there, and you can bump into things on accident. This can also be used when biasing, depending on the amp. - Get a fuse puller. This helps you avoid the risk of damaging fuses or contacts by accident. - Get a headlamp You'd be surprised at how useful this is. Especially if you work on your vehicle too. - Learn how to discharge the capacitors properly. I learned this from a CRT TV tech. This should be done if you're doing more complex repairs. It's not hard, but there's fatal risk involved. - Get a good soldering iron. I use a Hakko FX888.
I like my Weller WES51 adjustable soldering station. Has provided many years of service. Probably not a great “first” soldering iron but for someone with a little experience or who does a variety of projects it’s awesome. Just remember, you can always go hotter, but if you start too hot you’ll have a helluva time when it cools. Also, another safety tip for your list: never replace a fuse with a higher amp fuse than the circuit is rated for. It’s a great way to start a fire. Always go equal, or if you don’t have it, go slightly lower until you get the correct replacement.
I cringed at him putting his hand in their without discharging the filter caps, regardless of if they have bleed resistors or not. We all have to learn, but there's often no second chance with the voltages we talking about in there...
I didn't see if you did in the beginning, but remember to always attach a load to the amp! You can use either a speaker, a load box or an equivalent resistor, even when there's no guitar plugged in. I have a cheap Harley Benton attenuator which can act perfectly as a load for amp repairs, maintenance and troubleshooting. Furthermore this is a very solid video with some very good instructions.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for making it! Helps people to be confident in fixing their gear, not everyone can afford a large repair bill. One thing I will say is start small when it comes to electronics projects. Change the pickup in your guitar or replace a pot, and build from there.....but anyone reading this can repair their own stuff with a little bit of practice and research. The advice you gave about one hand is very important, especially since when you touch the amp with 2 hands.....the circuit your body creates goes straight across your heart. You should look into making yourself a "bleed resistor" to drain large capacitors, it would cost about $5 and it really helps with the safety side of things. When in doubt check with a multimeter before touching anything. Be safe and have fun everyone!
Kyle, the one hand trick won't keep you from creating a circuit, you will still get zapped. It's so it doesn't send from arm to arm through your heart, reducing the chance of death if caps discharge.
I am a repair tech myself, that first fuse you checked is actually the ht( high tension) fuse,it supplies high voltage to the tubes and the amp won't have sound without it like it does when you first test it, it is best to check them with a multimeter as sometimes it can be hard to tell if the thin wire is broken. If I am not mistaken that 4 amp fuse is the heater fuse for the tube filaments, it being broken is either a sign of a huge power surge or the amp being used on the incorrect voltage setting or of course something seriously wrong with one of the tubes. Usually you can replace those without any issues and move on. I would recommend Mike test those tubes for you just incase they are still good and you don't waste a set of tubes.
It is the heater fuse, and the pilot light is on the same circuit/fuse. I had 2 dark terrors break the same way within 2 weeks of owning each one. I think the power transformers for a batch of these amps are feeding the circuit way too much power. I never checked the voltages of them but I can say that those tubes glowed very bright, much brighter than normal, which makes me think the filaments were getting much more than 6.3 volts
Dave from Iron Age Amplification, I'm located in Midcoast Maine and I'm starting to do mods to amps especially Marshalls and I want to help owners troubleshoot repairs. Right to repair your own gear should definitely be a thing. So long as it is done safely of course. Keep playing metal and long live the tones of the 80's! Great Job, Kyle, glad to see you keep putting up content!
Love orange amps. I had a CR120 and after I sold it I really missed the orange thing. Ended up getting the dark terror, wow! What an excellent bit of kit!
I actually make amps for fun! In regards to discharging stuff, I like to alligator clip a 10k 2W resistor to the chassis of the amp, that is usually what gets it down to 0V the quickest.
I had done the exact same repair on my Randall RM100, but for the longest time just didn’t touch it because I bought an EVH 5150 III. My Randall’s bad fuse was pretty well hidden under a second pcb board. It’s a great feeling when you can just roll up your sleeves and fix something like that yourself.
What a fantastic deal, it's always a treat when you find something broken and the fix is fairly simple. Got that amp for a great price all parts/repairs in.
I'm with you on liking to tinker with things to try to figure them out and fix them, with varying degrees of success. It's always a good feeling when you manage to make it happen.
First amp I ever repaired was the Ampeg VL-1002. Typical molex connector issues. I bought the lee jackson video and got to work. It was a very rewarding feeling if it was a paint by numbers type of video.
I concur with your approach & do the same thing! I'm working on a 50-Watt ValveKing that was completely dead & found that the indicator light housing nut was on the board and would blow fuses. it now doesn't blow the fuses but sounds like a big Hummer. Time to swap out the power tubes.
The DT is a great amp...when it's working. It's in my top 3 favorites of amps I have owned. I had one that had a different problem. I often think about getting another one, and then I hear about another person having one with issues. I do love that amp though, and for $260, you definitely got a great deal. I hope that fuse solves your problem. Oh, and by the way, Tung Sol tubes sound great in that amp
I've been in this situation before including taking a fuse out of a similar amp. But after dealing with that I think it's important to have a spare parts drawer with common fuses, common tubes etc. The third thing is if the amp itself was the faulty thing, and it had a bad bias resistor, you would have redplated and destroyed those known good power tubes. So even as an amateur you should have a multimeter whenever you are inside an amp. If the voltages aren't correct when there are no tubes, that would be a sign not to install any tubes.
Definitely take your tube amp to an experienced & qualified tech if you have any doubts. Stay away from the big capacitors. Do not touch them just to be safe. There's a reason one of them is called the "death cap".
Blowing tube fuse is normal. It's enough if you switch your amp on and off and back on too quick and this may cause it popping. Of course I've just replaced mine with new one and amp was working fine again. Just be careful with bias pots etc. Touching them if you don't know what you do and you don't have a tube voltage test socket may kill you or at least your amp cuz you might have an idea of soldering voltmeter direclty to the board. Which of course I had to do when I screwed my tube amp for the first time.
I have one of those amps sitting in a box I got it when they first came out played it once but for some reason didn't play it since then I'm going to have to pull that bad boy out and hopefully it'll still work don't see why not and get into some dark Terror anyway glad you figured out what happened to Tommy's amp
Well that was useful knowledge. And a super good buy. Congrats! Maybe do a filter cap discharge in the future? It's like a 22K 5w resistor with one side on ground. Probably not necessary, until the one time it is.
I enjoyed your video. New subscriber now. Thanks for the great content. p.s. May want to check your solder joints to the tube terminals. May have a solder joint that needs a little reflow.
Ground the caps to discharge, then short the caps to themselves(anode to cathode) using wire, or buswire. They recharge if you don't take that step, even without power.
Last year I picked up an original 5150 212 combo from GC for $400 because it was “broken.” Turns out the previous owner tried to mod it somehow and screwed up to the point he decided to unload it. I undid the damage and got it working perfectly in about 4 hours. I would 100% do it again with another broken amp.
You can drain the caps by strumming ypur plugged in guitar afiter youve turned EVERYTHING off. The volume will bleed away slowly over a couple of seconds and that will drain the electrolytics. I still use a five watt resistor to touch the caps and check but they're always drained if you do it with your guitar.
Nice video, man. I was worried about your safety though haha. A man willing to risk his life for the sake of content creation? Kyle Bull, everybody!!! I'd love to see more of this.
Awesome Video - could we please talk about, you got a Dark Terror for less than 400 Bucks, maybe even less, than 350 Bucks with the new Tubes? :D Thats one of the biggest Points, why I love Tube Amps. If there is something broken, it's mostly easy to replace...if you break something in an Solid State Amplifier or even worse: In a Modeller, it's nearly sure, that you can put it into the trash, but Tube Amps are mostly much easier to repair! :D Would love to see more of these Videos!
I bought a pair of broken pedals recently. A Boss HM-2 Heavy Metal made in Japan and a Dunlop GCB95 Crybaby. The seller said the HM-2 wouldn't turn on, and the wah had an issue with the battery?! Got them both in the mail, and the HM-2 fired up with both a battery and a 9V DC plug. The wah just a broken battery compartment, but who uses batteries anyways? Scored both for €50.
Your recent intros are giving me the impression more and more that you are beginning to lose your mind. Very enjoyable! Keep it up! Edit: Good job on fixing the amp! These are cathode biased iirc. So Mike won't have to bias it. The bias sets itself
Now you can take the tubes that were in it put those back in and see if it works and you won't have to get tubes and the only thing you need to fix would be the light and you're good to go
So don't wrap the fuse with tinfoil? Great video, I've been doing vintage amp repair for 2 years now so I'm still a novice but have worked on blackface and silverface Fenders, a few Peaveys, a killer Carvin Vai, my 81 JCM 800 and some other small amps. Always discharge caps the Terry at D-Lab way. Also a Variac and current limiter can be very handy. I think I'm doing pretty good, I'm still at the work on friends amps for free stage but not forever. Anyone in the Chicago area that needs some free help message me.
I'm pretty sure you don't have to bias these. CS guitars changed the tubes in his Rocker 15 a while ago (and did a video on it) he is an amp tech and he said that it didn't need to bias it and I'd assume that the dark terror and the Jim root would be the same.
I bought a peavey 50 50 classic power amp that was sold as broken at guitar center many years back. I got it home tore it apart. Someone took all the tubes out and had them sitting inside the amp in a brown paper lunch bag. Put the tubes in and walla a working power amp on the cheap. I got lucky.
Hey guys, I have a EVH 5150 iii 50 watt with similar issue. does anyone know if there is an internal fuse . I checked fuse on back of amp , it's good. Power tubes have normal glow and can hear electrical current , but know sound and no lights on front panel.
Yo brother, great vid! The Dark Terror is one Sick little beast! \,,/ If you touch a screw on a wall socket or a light switch cover in your house, you will discharge yourself. They're grounded.
Hi Kyle....I am friends with David Szabados, (Legendary Tones)....I find your vids super fun and appreciate your content. If you want to dump either of those Terrors can you let Davd know. I would love to buy one of them. Sorry for the solicitation in the comments, but I just wanted to reach out. If you are interested in selling one of more of those Terrors, I would love to get them.
I feel like there should be a different term for equipment that doesn't function. Scratch and dent would indicate to me exactly as it says cosmetic damage not damage to the function of the equipment
High voltage can jump to ground through your shoes, one hand is not safe. Drain the filter caps people, regardless of if they have bleed resistors. I appreciate that you're not pretending to know a lot about working on amps but this is literally step one and if you put your finger in the wrong spot you could have easily died. Also im not sure i saw you put a load on it the first time you tested it, valve amps especially need loads.
Oh that was Tommy's dark Terror fell out the back of his van and rolled down a hill for about a half a block but it was in a box so anyway it just didn't work very well after that wow so you ended up with that imagine
Always make sure you drain the filter caps on any tube amp before you dive into working on it. Could shock the shit out of yourself if you aren't careful.
The terrors and TH series are not the same as the thunderverb. They are quite different. The dark terror IS similar to a TH30 with a different voicing. But they're not the same as the thunderverbs.
Repairing tube amps on this channel would be an awesome edition!
I'm learning to repair tube amps so we can preserve our equipment.
Dark Terror is no joke - it's a Brutal little Monster!!
I would check continuity with a multimeter on every fuse. Even if it looks good, it can sometimes have a tiny separation that’s impossible to see with the naked eye
strangely they like to pop inside the metal cap area...so you dont see the pop and it looks perfect.
the low amp ones often have the fine wire resting against the glass when they pop (they should float)
Few tips I can add for other amateur repairmen:
- Get yourself a non conductive screwdriver.
If you touch two parts at the same time (especially before discharging) you're going to pass electricity through them. It gets tight in there, and you can bump into things on accident. This can also be used when biasing, depending on the amp.
- Get a fuse puller.
This helps you avoid the risk of damaging fuses or contacts by accident.
- Get a headlamp
You'd be surprised at how useful this is. Especially if you work on your vehicle too.
- Learn how to discharge the capacitors properly.
I learned this from a CRT TV tech. This should be done if you're doing more complex repairs. It's not hard, but there's fatal risk involved.
- Get a good soldering iron.
I use a Hakko FX888.
I like my Weller WES51 adjustable soldering station. Has provided many years of service. Probably not a great “first” soldering iron but for someone with a little experience or who does a variety of projects it’s awesome. Just remember, you can always go hotter, but if you start too hot you’ll have a helluva time when it cools.
Also, another safety tip for your list: never replace a fuse with a higher amp fuse than the circuit is rated for. It’s a great way to start a fire. Always go equal, or if you don’t have it, go slightly lower until you get the correct replacement.
@@naturaljoe759 Good advice.
I cringed at him putting his hand in their without discharging the filter caps, regardless of if they have bleed resistors or not. We all have to learn, but there's often no second chance with the voltages we talking about in there...
I didn't see if you did in the beginning, but remember to always attach a load to the amp! You can use either a speaker, a load box or an equivalent resistor, even when there's no guitar plugged in. I have a cheap Harley Benton attenuator which can act perfectly as a load for amp repairs, maintenance and troubleshooting. Furthermore this is a very solid video with some very good instructions.
I was thinking the same thing. He didn't mention that he had a speaker cable attached to it the first time he turned it on.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for making it! Helps people to be confident in fixing their gear, not everyone can afford a large repair bill. One thing I will say is start small when it comes to electronics projects. Change the pickup in your guitar or replace a pot, and build from there.....but anyone reading this can repair their own stuff with a little bit of practice and research. The advice you gave about one hand is very important, especially since when you touch the amp with 2 hands.....the circuit your body creates goes straight across your heart. You should look into making yourself a "bleed resistor" to drain large capacitors, it would cost about $5 and it really helps with the safety side of things. When in doubt check with a multimeter before touching anything. Be safe and have fun everyone!
Kyle, the one hand trick won't keep you from creating a circuit, you will still get zapped. It's so it doesn't send from arm to arm through your heart, reducing the chance of death if caps discharge.
I am a repair tech myself, that first fuse you checked is actually the ht( high tension) fuse,it supplies high voltage to the tubes and the amp won't have sound without it like it does when you first test it, it is best to check them with a multimeter as sometimes it can be hard to tell if the thin wire is broken. If I am not mistaken that 4 amp fuse is the heater fuse for the tube filaments, it being broken is either a sign of a huge power surge or the amp being used on the incorrect voltage setting or of course something seriously wrong with one of the tubes. Usually you can replace those without any issues and move on. I would recommend Mike test those tubes for you just incase they are still good and you don't waste a set of tubes.
It is the heater fuse, and the pilot light is on the same circuit/fuse. I had 2 dark terrors break the same way within 2 weeks of owning each one. I think the power transformers for a batch of these amps are feeding the circuit way too much power. I never checked the voltages of them but I can say that those tubes glowed very bright, much brighter than normal, which makes me think the filaments were getting much more than 6.3 volts
Nice shirt Kyle. Terror is sick, one of the best bands I’ve ever seen live.
Good job, you just saved yourself about $300, I have replaced tubes and fuses too in my amps. Good skill to have.
I'm not surprised you got it to work. Guitar Center has a good used department.
Dave from Iron Age Amplification, I'm located in Midcoast Maine and I'm starting to do mods to amps especially Marshalls and I want to help owners troubleshoot repairs. Right to repair your own gear should definitely be a thing. So long as it is done safely of course. Keep playing metal and long live the tones of the 80's! Great Job, Kyle, glad to see you keep putting up content!
Do you have a web presence? Nothing came up in a search, but I am also in midcoast Maine.
@@joeolivas let me know if you saw any other messages from me! I've tried to respond to this twice
That laugh in the beginning of the video cracked me up. I had to hold my laughter in at work.
Love orange amps. I had a CR120 and after I sold it I really missed the orange thing. Ended up getting the dark terror, wow! What an excellent bit of kit!
Dude, that’s an awesome score for $261. Makes me really miss my dark terror. Those things are awesome.
I actually make amps for fun! In regards to discharging stuff, I like to alligator clip a 10k 2W resistor to the chassis of the amp, that is usually what gets it down to 0V the quickest.
I had done the exact same repair on my Randall RM100, but for the longest time just didn’t touch it because I bought an EVH 5150 III. My Randall’s bad fuse was pretty well hidden under a second pcb board. It’s a great feeling when you can just roll up your sleeves and fix something like that yourself.
What a fantastic deal, it's always a treat when you find something broken and the fix is fairly simple. Got that amp for a great price all parts/repairs in.
I'm with you on liking to tinker with things to try to figure them out and fix them, with varying degrees of success. It's always a good feeling when you manage to make it happen.
I love the used section of gooey-tar center. The only section worth visiting.
First amp I ever repaired was the Ampeg VL-1002. Typical molex connector issues. I bought the lee jackson video and got to work. It was a very rewarding feeling if it was a paint by numbers type of video.
I concur with your approach & do the same thing! I'm working on a 50-Watt ValveKing that was completely dead & found that the indicator light housing nut was on the board and would blow fuses. it now doesn't blow the fuses but sounds like a big Hummer. Time to swap out the power tubes.
Doing what we all dream of: getting around to that one project.
Awesome that you got such a good deal on this amp! That worked out really well!
The DT is a great amp...when it's working. It's in my top 3 favorites of amps I have owned. I had one that had a different problem. I often think about getting another one, and then I hear about another person having one with issues. I do love that amp though, and for $260, you definitely got a great deal. I hope that fuse solves your problem. Oh, and by the way, Tung Sol tubes sound great in that amp
I've been in this situation before including taking a fuse out of a similar amp. But after dealing with that I think it's important to have a spare parts drawer with common fuses, common tubes etc.
The third thing is if the amp itself was the faulty thing, and it had a bad bias resistor, you would have redplated and destroyed those known good power tubes.
So even as an amateur you should have a multimeter whenever you are inside an amp. If the voltages aren't correct when there are no tubes, that would be a sign not to install any tubes.
Definitely take your tube amp to an experienced & qualified tech if you have any doubts. Stay away from the big capacitors. Do not touch them just to be safe. There's a reason one of them is called the "death cap".
Blowing tube fuse is normal. It's enough if you switch your amp on and off and back on too quick and this may cause it popping. Of course I've just replaced mine with new one and amp was working fine again. Just be careful with bias pots etc. Touching them if you don't know what you do and you don't have a tube voltage test socket may kill you or at least your amp cuz you might have an idea of soldering voltmeter direclty to the board. Which of course I had to do when I screwed my tube amp for the first time.
Oh THAT'S why you don't have the Jim Root for sale anymore... 🤣
Mean little s.o.b.! It's always awesome when you suspect the easy fix and it actually is. Good score
I love may dark terror, sounds great with my explorer with bare knuckle nailbomb alnico and a MXR M77 in front to tighten the bass and low mids
That intro bro... hilarious!!!
I have one of those amps sitting in a box I got it when they first came out played it once but for some reason didn't play it since then I'm going to have to pull that bad boy out and hopefully it'll still work don't see why not and get into some dark Terror anyway glad you figured out what happened to Tommy's amp
This is a fun video. Keep it up good sir 🤘
That was fun, dude! Just love your stuff! cheers
Almost went into Lake Erie but stopped short have tumbling down the Rocks into the lake
Nice job Kyle
Well that was useful knowledge. And a super good buy. Congrats!
Maybe do a filter cap discharge in the future? It's like a 22K 5w resistor with one side on ground. Probably not necessary, until the one time it is.
Love seeing a mode four and a dark terror. You’d love the sound of a dual dark into two MF280s
Yes you can still get shocked if you're not at least grounded. The other hand is important so it doesn't just run the current in you continuously
I enjoyed your video. New subscriber now. Thanks for the great content.
p.s. May want to check your solder joints to the tube terminals. May have a solder joint that needs a little reflow.
Ground the caps to discharge, then short the caps to themselves(anode to cathode) using wire, or buswire. They recharge if you don't take that step, even without power.
Hey Kyle , there's a ceriatone Gargoyle 2022 50 watter selling on reverb for $ 1400.00 plus $ 100.00 shipping mint condition 👍😉
Last year I picked up an original 5150 212 combo from GC for $400 because it was “broken.” Turns out the previous owner tried to mod it somehow and screwed up to the point he decided to unload it. I undid the damage and got it working perfectly in about 4 hours. I would 100% do it again with another broken amp.
You can drain the caps by strumming ypur plugged in guitar afiter youve turned EVERYTHING off. The volume will bleed away slowly over a couple of seconds and that will drain the electrolytics. I still use a five watt resistor to touch the caps and check but they're always drained if you do it with your guitar.
Eq in the loop and a Proco Rat in front = some tasty tones.
Dang Man! You missed a perfect opportunity to show us the inside of both amps so we can see what the differences are! LOL. Great video.
I would love to see more videos like this Kyle!
Even with no mic it still sounds way better than my micro dark
Used one hand to replace a fuse "for safety" and then tilts it by grabbing the transformers.
Nice video, man. I was worried about your safety though haha. A man willing to risk his life for the sake of content creation? Kyle Bull, everybody!!! I'd love to see more of this.
Love my dark terror. Picked mine up mint for 300$ then an evh lbx II for 250$ locally after that! Talk about luck!
I had two break with in three months , and had to send the second one to the orange factory and they fixed it for free and now it has no problem
Awesome Video - could we please talk about, you got a Dark Terror for less than 400 Bucks, maybe even less, than 350 Bucks with the new Tubes? :D
Thats one of the biggest Points, why I love Tube Amps. If there is something broken, it's mostly easy to replace...if you break something in an Solid State Amplifier or even worse: In a Modeller, it's nearly sure, that you can put it into the trash, but Tube Amps are mostly much easier to repair! :D
Would love to see more of these Videos!
I would love to see more videos like this! Do more!!
i like to tinker on my own gear so yes make more of these
Entertaining and then some! More content like this would be killer!
Cool thing about that amp is that you don't have to bias it.
Troubleshoot is needed on youtube !
I would love more troubleshooting video!
pretty sure that is my old orange i returned to guitar center LOL🤣
Kyle, you might want to use a wooden chopstick or dowel instead of poking around inside the amp with a screwdriver.
I've had fuses pop for no reason at all. Replace it with the correct amperage & install.
Would love to see a Hughes Tubemeister 36 or one of the newer Tubemeister 40 on the channel!
great content! also your moves are pretty wisely even if u say 'idk'
I bought a pair of broken pedals recently. A Boss HM-2 Heavy Metal made in Japan and a Dunlop GCB95 Crybaby. The seller said the HM-2 wouldn't turn on, and the wah had an issue with the battery?! Got them both in the mail, and the HM-2 fired up with both a battery and a 9V DC plug. The wah just a broken battery compartment, but who uses batteries anyways? Scored both for €50.
Your recent intros are giving me the impression more and more that you are beginning to lose your mind. Very enjoyable! Keep it up!
Edit: Good job on fixing the amp!
These are cathode biased iirc. So Mike won't have to bias it. The bias sets itself
Now you can take the tubes that were in it put those back in and see if it works and you won't have to get tubes and the only thing you need to fix would be the light and you're good to go
this is your calling please do a tube screamer next
Nice shirt great band
Whatever else, it's a *lot* easier to fix than some funky lunchbox full of virtual amps 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤘
So don't wrap the fuse with tinfoil? Great video, I've been doing vintage amp repair for 2 years now so I'm still a novice but have worked on blackface and silverface Fenders, a few Peaveys, a killer Carvin Vai, my 81 JCM 800 and some other small amps. Always discharge caps the Terry at D-Lab way. Also a Variac and current limiter can be very handy. I think I'm doing pretty good, I'm still at the work on friends amps for free stage but not forever. Anyone in the Chicago area that needs some free help message me.
Could you make videos in the future with your amp tech? That would be super cool and helpful too
Head on over to PSIONIC AUDIO channel, if you want to watch tube amp repair videos.
I'm pretty sure you don't have to bias these.
CS guitars changed the tubes in his Rocker 15 a while ago (and did a video on it) he is an amp tech and he said that it didn't need to bias it and I'd assume that the dark terror and the Jim root would be the same.
I bought a peavey 50 50 classic power amp that was sold as broken at guitar center many years back. I got it home tore it apart. Someone took all the tubes out and had them sitting inside the amp in a brown paper lunch bag. Put the tubes in and walla a working power amp on the cheap. I got lucky.
Yo Kyle, grab a magnetic bowl at a hardware store, that way you don't have to keep track of your loose screws.
Yeah that amp went through some dark Terror
Well done 🤘😎🤘
Hey guys, I have a EVH 5150 iii 50 watt with similar issue. does anyone know if there is an internal fuse . I checked fuse on back of amp , it's good. Power tubes have normal glow and can hear electrical current , but know sound and no lights on front panel.
Yo brother, great vid! The Dark Terror is one Sick little beast! \,,/ If you touch a screw on a wall socket or a light switch cover in your house, you will discharge yourself. They're grounded.
Hi Kyle....I am friends with David Szabados, (Legendary Tones)....I find your vids super fun and appreciate your content. If you want to dump either of those Terrors can you let Davd know. I would love to buy one of them. Sorry for the solicitation in the comments, but I just wanted to reach out. If you are interested in selling one of more of those Terrors, I would love to get them.
Hey there! The Dark Terror is for sale! hit me up via email - splawnquickrod@gmail.com
I have a dark terror and I LOVE IT
oof, I only paid £200 for mine and it was not faulty at all (it was used tho)
Would be cool if you could get mike Wagner on the show sometime.
Nice. Entertaining and informative.
Them drain the caps, its easy. A Wire from the cap Positive side to ground.
Great Video , thx !
I feel like there should be a different term for equipment that doesn't function. Scratch and dent would indicate to me exactly as it says cosmetic damage not damage to the function of the equipment
High voltage can jump to ground through your shoes, one hand is not safe. Drain the filter caps people, regardless of if they have bleed resistors. I appreciate that you're not pretending to know a lot about working on amps but this is literally step one and if you put your finger in the wrong spot you could have easily died. Also im not sure i saw you put a load on it the first time you tested it, valve amps especially need loads.
Oh that was Tommy's dark Terror fell out the back of his van and rolled down a hill for about a half a block but it was in a box so anyway it just didn't work very well after that wow so you ended up with that imagine
Good job! Still really bugging me that that light doesn't work though! lol. Is there a bulb in there or just and LED?
One or the other. Yup.
pretty sure these little guys are cathode biased so you just need a matching pair of EL84's and you are good to go
hey kyle, next time please use a magnetic bracelet so you don't lose the screws. 😉 good video
*plugs amp into a 4x12 marshall cab*
"okay, lets turn down the volume a little bit"
said no one ever.
You will still get a shock with your hand behind your back, it just will not go across your chest, possibly stopping your heart.
I’ll be going to Hershey Pennsylvania in March or May for the blink 182 concert
Always make sure you drain the filter caps on any tube amp before you dive into working on it. Could shock the shit out of yourself if you aren't careful.
Hei. Did you ever try Yamaha thr10x? Maybe you have reviewed that practice amp? Thanks. Stay metal, stay nuclear. 🤘🤘🤘
Can we get a video with mike ? Maybe get a old broken amp and show us mike gettint into it
The terrors and TH series are not the same as the thunderverb. They are quite different. The dark terror IS similar to a TH30 with a different voicing. But they're not the same as the thunderverbs.
SIMPLE ALIGATOR JUMPER ONE ENDGROUND OTHER TO PLATE OF PREAMP TUBE DRAINS CAPS SW IN PLAY MODE AMP UNPLUGGED OFCOURSE PINOUT DATA ON WEB
Wait which guitar center??
Ahh ok my store has one like this lol maybe I can figure out this one too