The Quest for the Perfect Hiwatt (Part Two)
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Part two of our trip down the great Hiwatt rabbit hole with our friend, Joe Barresi. Check out part one here: • The Quest for the Perf...
In this installment, Joe's amp gets updated to an ideal spec while we opine as to what the proper fate of Joe's cabinet should be. Its an amp-nerd deep dive folks- jump in!
#hiwatt #vintageamps #ampmod #joebarresi #fryette #tubeamplifier #petetownshend #davidgilmour
These vids are amazing. Loved what Steve talked about around 15:40 . I feel like that ethic is still prevalent with a lot of "modern" guitar/amp designs just dressed up with more marketing hype.
He's the best all around amp builder/tech - his knowledge and working integrity are second to none! I do own a LXII and I cannot recommend it enough! One day I will get a 2150...
Anyone else see the old VHT Valveulator buffer on the shelf! He should totally modernize and reissue that thing. Way ahead of its time as with most of Steve's ideas!
I do now. I have three of them. Great sounding! Only problem with them is sometimes the fuse blows in them and the fuse is hard to access and sometime soldered in. I got one of mine free because the fuse had blow and my buddy thought I he unit broke.
A new version would be amazing
I love my valvulator!
Thank you so much for this information. Incredible knowledge and insight. I own a bunch of DR103’s and this has helped gain a better understanding. Such a joy to watch the attention to detail. Bravo Steve and gang!
Great series guys. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Steve.
Great 2 part episode Steve. Amp sounded killer.
#ALLHAILNIKOCHAN
The difference in the transformer codes is because of the bell housings. The bell housings had to be introduced for new safety regulations in the UK
Joe’s Cabinet is probably an Audio Brothers made Hiwatt Cabinet. I have one and it’s great, even compared to my 70s “real” Hiwatt cab. Audio Brothers used 90s black cast frame Fanes with different mounting holes (no they are not like the original silver/grey cast frame Fanes). I know because I tried to put a pair of M65s speakers in it for a mix, but no dice. I will say whatever those cast frames are they sound amazing, even compared to old ones.
Worthy quest, nice results even ; )
thanks for the in depths
Holy shit I love these vids! So little great content on HiWatts! I have a 1973 Custom 50...sadly my 1975 Custom 100 has a troubled output transformer; but the major takeaway; HiWatts kick ass!!
@Steve will u please insert some Foghorn Leghorn cartoon clips in some of these videos? It would be hilarious
Name your favorite FL moment and we'll work it into a future video. Promise ;)
In this video and Malcontents S3 Ep7 you talk about balancing amps gain from its input to output for good string separation and good Hiwatt sound in this video.
This balance thing might be critical in overall What Makes Amp Great thing. Need a separate video/live on this subject !
For me most important thing in amp was country to Iron Maiden from guitars volume pot only. So I built my own amp. And it was full of pots and trim-pots until it did what I needed.
What I did not knowing it, was balance amps gain from input to output. Amp now has gain pot and Vox Cut style pot, I dont use any of these. Always on 10/10.
Watched every video on this channel. Learned as much about amps as margaritas.
Sad about that cab. I'm sure someone could work it to a servicable unit though.
Hello, when installing new pre amp tubes, what brand are you using these days....... I like your Hamer Guitar.............
We’ve used Shuguang a lot in the past. Now that they are available again, we’ll be using them where applicable. We also use JJ, Psvane and in some models, a Tung-Sol in V1.
My Hiwatts always sounded so good with P90s, I didn’t use much else w/ them
An amp that doesn’t sound good with p-90’s in a slab of mahogany doesn’t sound good, period.
@@Skoora even more true with and old Hiwatt
💯
Townshend’s live tone was epic.
That amp doesn’t even sound the same anymore !!!!
Fricken awesome !!! Turned a boat anchor into a tone machine …
This is giving the keys to kingdom for us Hiwatt fans!!!! Loved the use of the Mark Huss schematics too.
Hey Steve Hi from Vancouver !
Which band did you play in?
I was around on those days...
I met Hutch at the Body Shop the tech that created the
Canadian Hiwatt mod and he installed the mod in a 4 hole custom 50 watt Hiwatt
Head when he was working at a studio in Gas town Water Street Sound and loved it !
I think he is working at RND / Rupert Neve Designs
Best'
Jale and Winsdlow
@@FryetteAmps
Hi Guys
Excellent show!!!
I have learned much watching.
I have a late 1977 made in Dec
And geez ... would love to have it looked at gone over... one day.
Humbled by the wisdom and knowledge
Steve has...
Let's face it a guitar player /electronic engineer is a no brainer..... makes killer Amps!
Hi Steven,
I actually just picked up a 78 DR103. Would you be willing to share what you did to get it on par with the early models? Sorry if you've answered this before. From what I noticed in the vid it looks like a few things were changed - Would love to mod mine - or technically unmod it back to earlier hiwatt spec
Edit: I rewatched where you broke it down with the schematic. Excellent stuff!
Wow just absolutely fantastic boys!! Amazing thank you so much for chering what all my techs keep info to themselves! But i know they're not that good. Im in Toronto Canada & still haven't found the right tech that would make an amp that i been holding for 20+ years. You guys are the real Mccoy!! ✊️👏👏👏
This is very interesting, thanks for sharing with us.
I own a 1978 DR-103 - would you mind sharing the mods and schematics you did here?
Everything you need to know is here: hiwatt.org/Schematics/DR_PreLinkedInput_v1.pdf
Just change 68K input resistors in the schematic to 33K and ignore the Link jack. Those resistors do not appear in your amp.
Thank you 💖
@@davedeville6540Hi, did you do the mod in your 78?
No, I did have it serviced, retubed and recapped before ultimately selling the amp.
However, I did swap the rectifier valve from 12AX7 to 12AT7 for less gain.
Ultimately I think most of the magic is in understanding the interplay between volume/tone stack/master - it’s definitely not intuitive.
Great two part video. Thanks for sharing. I bought a new 1982 HiWatt Custom 50 DR505 (Canadian version) and it had no issues with the gain that you mentioned were a problem with some of the earlier Canadian versions of the DR504. It sounded incredible and it replaced my 1981, 50 watt JCM 800 which also had a Canadian mod as they were also imported by the same distributor as the HiWatt's. I preferred the HiWatt over the JCM 800 because it just had bigger tone and a bit more usable gain.
I’m digging the use of the little FANE positive terminal lug stickers to mark your components!
I noticed that Mackenzie speakers used the same dots too.
Same "sounds bad, that's what they want" mentality from mass marketing/manufacturers today...
I'm trying to understand which Hiwatt circuit variations were done in what production year(s). I have a 72 and a 73...are those amp circuits more for "hi-fi" tone?
Thems the golden years. They'll do the cleans tight and the grind right.
@@FryetteAmps Excellent...I'm an electrical engr. that understands schematics and amps, but I don't know any particulars about the Reeves designs - which now make way more sense from your splendid video. Many thanks - you've saved me hours of digging and head scratching!
@@harrykadaras9459 There will be more to come...
@Fryette Amps Much appreciated. We need more of this subject in our lives!
Wasn't the "canadian mod" only done to two holers? Either way it doesn't represent Dave Reeves designs as it was done by canadian importers.
Hello. When is the new gpdi coming out. Musicians friend keep telling me they have receive dates but nothing ever happens. I preordered like two years ago. Thanks
I had a couple Rickenbacker Road amps. The distortion knob just clicked and did nothing. They were clean sold state amps that the reverb was ok.
I have a Peavey cab with Celestion G12-K85 speakers.
Looks like they had the cast frame Fanes in Joe's cabinet before.
Thanks for the deep dive! My '79 DR103 has some of the issues Joe's had tonally, especially with the weird low end. Can you divulge what preamp tubes you used when you replaced the old ones? Also, what slot the 12AT7 was used in?
We used Psvane ECC83s. The ECC81 was probably a JJ. The position for that one is second from the left looking at the front of the amp with tubes facing up.
Ahhhh, so this is why the price of sound city stuff has shot up lately
You gotta love these guys. Thx for doing this! Cheers from Germany
Cheers back!
Thanks to Steve and Fryette team for providing all these Hiwatt insights. This content is gold and laid the groundwork for me.
Last year, I bought a 78/79 DR103 just like Joe's. It had a ripped out preamp section from a "gain mod" someone tried.
I went all in and rebuilt it with all NOS mustards caps and Beyschlag resistors.
Thanks to your awesome PS2, I can even use it at home.
Big thank you from Germany!
to be clear: I used your approach and rebuilt the preamp to early 70s spec.
One more addition: also used your advice to reform the original filter caps!
The amp has been sitting at the pre-owner for 20 years unused since he never came round to restore it.
Sick man! Joe Barresi recorded some amazing records. I was wondering i see you just switching the speaker cable while the amps are still on, everybody tells us that that's the worst thing to do to a tube amp, right? NEVER turn on a tube amp without a load? Or does that only matter if the amp's on really long or an actual signal is ran though them? anyway awesome stuff, Cheers
If the OT is not passing signal, in particular, A LOT of signal, then it's not necessary to turn off the amp or switch it to standby when switching cables, cabs, etc.
@@FryetteAmps wow thanks for the quick answer..! That's good to know, because i'm always switching around amps/cabs in the studio to try different things, and would always turn the amps on and off
So my loadbox is only rated to 100W RMS. If I get a DR103 and turn up the MV to the point of distortion, is that still gonna be low enough to not make my load box melt?
You're going to need a load box that handles well in excess of 100W.
@@FryetteAmps that's kinda what I was afraid of. Thanks for the knowledge.
You can use your load box but crank the amp max 11 o'clock in the dial, otherwise you'll be easily pushing over 100W, especially if you run a bass heavy setup.
You'll be riding the load box at the limit though.
@@JohnWiku I ended up getting a DR504 after Mr. Fryette's advice. I'm glad I did, though, because the drive on that thing just above 3:00 with a Tube Screamer and buckers is *glorious* arena rock.
This video is a great insight on why Fryette doesn't respond to customer service emails.
You may not be aware that we've moved and that has caused some message droputs/losses. We apologize and ask that you resend any queries you feel have been overlooked. Thank you.
Just fantastic, loved the appreciation of both amps , the commentary inspiring !