Bodging the board is one way, and I am certainly guilty of that!, but I feel I might have built a wee adaptor for the new capacitor to offset one of the connections to meet the footprint.
If you had some extra head space above the capacitor you could have added an extension to the cap contact to get you over to the original hole. You'd need a couple mm to allow for the screw head that would be between the capacitor and board. That way you wouldn't have bodged the original board.
Seems it would be worth designing a set of PCBs with the hole spacing of the bolt on can caps. Add a number of SMD pads in parallel (or some selectable series/parallel combination) and then you can populate it with the SMD caps to match the specs of the bolt in can cap you are replacing.
Those caps are expensive - Did you measure the regulated output for ripple? A quick read of the service manual seems to show that those lines should have less than 1mV of ripple on them (+20, +11, -10, -40 < 300uV, +20,+5.2,-5.2 < 1mV)
These are the real deal! I always look out for Kemet caps, which are primarily tantalums for me.
Bodging the board is one way, and I am certainly guilty of that!, but I feel I might have built a wee adaptor for the new capacitor to offset one of the connections to meet the footprint.
If you had some extra head space above the capacitor you could have added an extension to the cap contact to get you over to the original hole. You'd need a couple mm to allow for the screw head that would be between the capacitor and board. That way you wouldn't have bodged the original board.
Don't tin an area that will take a screw. The solder will creep over time and the screw will become loose.
Seems it would be worth designing a set of PCBs with the hole spacing of the bolt on can caps. Add a number of SMD pads in parallel (or some selectable series/parallel combination) and then you can populate it with the SMD caps to match the specs of the bolt in can cap you are replacing.
A man gotta do-Cap gods want👍
Those caps are expensive - Did you measure the regulated output for ripple? A quick read of the service manual seems to show that those lines should have less than 1mV of ripple on them (+20, +11, -10, -40 < 300uV, +20,+5.2,-5.2 < 1mV)
The answer to everything is 42.
Don't forget your towel.
😀
👍