Best video so far. Love the FF7 reference, Jodie spinning off into space and not to mention her unmentionables 😂 this is the best video so far!! Love ya both xx
Enjoying the videos, looking forward to seeing the finished camper. You may want to think about different cable for the 240v as the solid cores can break easily with the movement of the van, best to use arctic blue which is a multi strand cable :D
@@JodieandJoe the problem is, if it doesn't hold you're looking at a potential for fire :-\ You definitely need flexi cable in vehicles though I'm not convinced you need to go to the extreme of "arctic" cables indoors.
Comment: Wow, this Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series sounds like an impressive piece of equipment! As an outdoor enthusiast and RV lover, having a reliable power source is essential for a great camping experience. The massive capacity, fast recharging, and waterproof technology make it a top choice for me. Thanks for sharing this recommendation!
Just watched all your videos on your van build , your a lovely couple and I hope it all works out for you but hurry up and post more 😂😂 really enjoying them 👍 oh and subscribed 👍
Thank you! The heat wave put us behind schedule (no way we'd get in that van in 40°c 🤣) But we will post soon! Thanks for subscribing and welcome to the madness! ♥️
Well done for all your efforts, guys. Really impressed. Just please promise me you will take out any coils in your wiring, they will overheat. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Best wishes x
Recommending to have your alternator & van modified for higher amperage output or add a secondary alternator just battery banks. Using only the stock alternator for all of Your recharging power will cause you alternator to fail.
It’s a good suggestion. Check the specs of the existing alternator and go from there based on what the DC-DC converter does. In modern vehicles it can be very tight in the engine bay for a second so an upgrade of the existing might be easiest.
Good idea, we will have to check our alternator's amp rating, Id expect it to handle the extra 30A from a single charger for now but possibly not a second.
@@JodieandJoe nice instal guys 😎 very neat and tidy 👍 as your using a decent BtoB your starter battery will get charged first then when it's full enough to need less amps the house battery will get charged, that will lessen the load on the alt way better than the old style VSR 🤔
Totally agree. Please watch this Victron video. ua-cam.com/video/jgoIocPgOug/v-deo.html. It shows a stock alternator burning out at low rpm. Stock alternators are not designed to provide continuous high output, as that’s not necessary in normal automotive requirements. I know you have the DC-DC to limit current and increase the voltage to 24V, but I believe even at that limited current, it will significantly shorten your alternator life if it is asked to do most of the charging. Adding a second DC-DC would make it worse with a stock alternator. While the Balmar and its regulator would be overkill, you should look for an alternator that is capable of a lot of amps at low rpm.
@J G, this setup puts the solar as the main charging system so the domestic battery should usually already be fully charged when the engine starts. To defend the alternator the Victron DC-DC charger can be set to not connect till the engine battery is nearly charged, something like 13.8V Alternators burn out at low speed (tickover) because their cooling fan isn't running fast enough, also they don't produce full charge at low speed, the solution is to bring the engine speed up slightly, I use a washer on a rubber band between the throttle arm & its stop, that way if I touch the throttle it pings out & I'm back to standard.
I recently got two 270 watt solar panels. Oh my god the difference on the cloudy day was a game changer. Seem to have a surplus of power now. Been running 3 fridgefreezer for 4 days. By batteries are still on float 😂😂
Hi, you two, I came across your channel due to my contemplating an own campervan build. I have enjoyed watching your videos and found some good ideas in your design. However, starting to look over the various electrical components with a mind for what I would like to put into my own van I noticed a few things I thought better to make you aware of. 1. Solar charger voltage rating. The specs for the solar panels you used indicate a max open circuit voltage of 34.1V, meaning 3 panels in series make for a max combined voltage of 102.3V. The MPPT 100/50 charger is rated at 100V max... I realize this is only a marginal overvoltage, however, I would have recommended the use of the MPPT 150/35 instead. It would still be sufficient for handling the power of your solar panels. 2. Looking at the battery bank I really like the metal bars used for connecting the individual cells. They ought to provide a very good connection. Unfortunately I do not like the apparent size of the cables, particularly those running from the battery to the Multiplus II. I fear you have chosen way too thin cables for the currents involved. Be sure to check the ratings with someone who do this professionally. Also, do NOT coil up the current carrying cables! Keep them short and straight! Coiling them up creates inductors that load the system and can cause serious overheating! 3. Just a comment: If you ever do a rebuild I would recommend using the Victron Lynx busbar system instead of the discrete design you appear to have used. It does not cost much more, and it makes for a simpler, neater and more stable solution. Other than these issues I really like your approach to the van design. Not many people get anywhere near that amount of solar power in their van builds! Also, your humour makes the videos even more enjoyable! Keep it up! Thumbs up from my side! Oh, and I'll probably end up with a shrine of my own some day! 🙂
Thanks Erik for your feedback, I'm not sure if we have since improved on this and not updated everyone but I'll try. You are correct about the mppt however we have our panels connected in parallel so won't hit the 100v limit. Our battery cables are 75mm2 and have never even got warm. They've since been cut to the correct length to avoid coiling. The only component that gets warm when charging at 120a is the DC cut off switch so I wouldn't recommend these and we have higher amp replacements ready to fit. I would love the lynx and if you can afford it that would be a far safer component. Thanks again I always appreciate feedback on the build!
@@JodieandJoe While from an overvoltage point of view it is good that you use parallel and not serial connection of the solar panels it ends up causing another problem. Neither solar panels nor batteries provide a fixed voltage. The output voltage of a battery depends on the charge state. The lower the charge, the lower the output voltage. Similarly with the solar panels, the more light shines down on the panels, the higher the output voltage. On top of that you need to take the type of charger into consideration. The MPPT chargers are what is called Buck converters, it means they step the voltage down - and not up... According to the MPPT specs the voltage from the solar panels must be at least 1V higher than the battery voltage in order for charging to take place, and at least 5V higher for the charging to start in the first place. The net result is that your panels connected in parallel would be perfect for a 12V battery configuration - but not for a 24V. You will basically only get anything remotely resembling full use of your panels when the sun is fully out - and almost none when it is cloudy. Similarly the more charged your batteries are, the less they will be charged. I would strongly recommend that you change to a series connection and replace the MPPT 100/50 with an MPPT 150/35, that way you will increase the solar charge efficiency significantly. Your current setup is marginal at best. Yeah, I know, you have the 100/50, not the 150/35... 😞 Please note that I am not writing this as just a layman - I am an electronics engineer with over 30 years of experience - and while solar panels are not normally part of my work tasks power supply design and batteries/charging is... Best of luck to you two. Looking forward to seeing new videos!
You are correct with the mppt needing to be 5V over, this was something I didn't realise until after I bought it. I considered buying the 150/35 and arranging the panels in series but I really wanted to be in parallel for shading reasons so was waiting until summer to see what yield I get in peak sunlight. I have wondered if the system would work with a buck boost before the mppt but dismissed it and left it as is. It would be very interesting to install the 150/35 with the panels in series and see how much more power it brings in, definitely worth trying!
Had your solar panels been slightly differently configured, more cells in series, say 8-10 V higher output, or your battery pack been 12V instead, I too would have gone with a parallel configuration. Partial shading performance would then be better. As it is, however, the panels simply do not output a high enough voltage to provide decent charging with a 24V battery setup, and I sincerely expect you to get more out of a series config. Both partially shaded, but even more so out of shade in cloudy conditions. Buck boost converters could be an option, but there's a downside, the efficiency of these in boost mode is way lower than a buck converter like the MPPT series, which reach up to 98% or so efficiency. You'd more likely be talking 85-90% efficiency with a good converter... which is why I would not go for one myself. If I did I would still not use it in series with the MPPT but as a replacement for it. I'll do some serious searching to see if I can find some other panels with a higher output voltage to provide a better balance - perhaps with a series AND parallel combination using 4 panels in a 2x2 config. Too bad, the panel size you found is just about as perfect as can be... 😞 I feel a lot more comfortable knowing that you use 75mm2 cables for the MultiplusII. They did look a lot thinner in the videos, though. Cheers!
Sorry for bargin in on your conversation. Got really fascinated with this thread and Erik you sound like someone I might want to contact for any uncertainties in my own build. 😅
Your build is looking well Jodie and Joe, but using a self built battery bank as the main source of power? I made a 200ah lifepo4 with a 100amp Daly bms as a back up just in case the Polinovel 200ah lifepo4 plays up, but it isn’t permanently connected to the main electrical system. I keep the self made in the garage connected to a pure sine wave inverter (in a ‘stand alone mobile fashion’, instead of a generator) just to run a microwave, induction hob and some other mains appliances. I have Anderson connectors on everything so that Batteries can be interchanged or both charged using the same Victron b to b or Victron hook up charger. I’ve never had any problems with my home built battery and think they are perfectly safe, but was put off using them as the main source of power because I was told that insurance companies won’t cover them and won’t pay out if an claim was attributed to home built lifepo4 batteries powering electrical systems? I’m just wondering which insurance company you went with and what their take on them is as I’d definitely build a larger battery bank if I knew which insurer will allow me too. Good videos, keep them coming.
Great videos, I am pretty much having the same electrical setup, would you mind telling me where the you connected the 2xP- and 2xB- BMS cables too in your setup. Thanks
I made 2 Y-cables so I could combine the double sides of the BMS into a single cable on each side. The B- went to the battery negative and the P- went to the SmartShunt
I really like your videos, one of the best out there, I just have a few recommendations, you need to use arctic flex core for your 240v (screwfix) and your 240v fusebox needs to be a dual poll if you go abroad. But keep up the good work.
Just about to write the same thing. Twin and earth has one solid core, this can break easily with too much jiggling around. Arctic blue has multiple strands that give more jiggle factor and if one breaks there's more left
@@JodieandJoe (cut'n'pasted from a Screwfix chat forum, Section 721 is about caravans & motor caravans. Double pole I haven't found facts yet but it is at least 'highly recommended' & I don't think you can buy a unit that isn't double pole so that decision goes away anyway. "All live conductors" may mean double pole, I'm not certain. The way I read this you need an RCD in your 'shore line' hook up as well as in your own distribution panel though this seems a good idea anyway.) 18th Edition Wiring Regulations Section 721 721.415.1 Additional protection: RCDs Where protection by automatic disconnection of supply is used, a residual current device with a rated residual operating current not exceeding 30 mA, complying with BS EN 60947-2 (Annex B), BS EN 61008-1, BS EN 61009-1 or BS EN 62423 breaking all live conductors, shall be provided having the characteristics specified in 415.1.1. Each supply inlet shall be directly connected to its associated RCD. NOTE : This implies that there may not be any taps or junctions in this connection. 721.43 Protection against overcurrent 721.43.1 Final circuits Each final circuit shall be protected by an overcurrent protective device which disconnects all live conductors of that circuit.
@@JodieandJoe it's my understanding that a "habitation check" will give you a certificate that's valid across the EU, even after Brexit, but check with a few caravan dealers before you go, especially ones near Dover & Folkestone who will have heard all the tales of woe from would-be travelers who have been turned back at Calais.
Battery cells have now halved in price so it is now much more cost effective. I'd personally buy a battery enclosure now to hold the cells and BMS safety and tidy
According to the datasheet for the Victron Peak Power Battery with a capacity of 20Ah, it specifies a continuous output current of 30A from Output 2 and a nominal voltage of 12.8V. However, if the logic board consumes 12.8V at 14.7A, it is unclear if the battery will supply more current than the specified 14.7A to the logic board.! any tip is appreciated
Get that BMS on there ASAP, if the cells discharge below 2.5V you'll find yourself ordering another set of batteries. I have a very similar house setup to you that I built myself. 16xEVE 280ah JKBMS Multiplus-II 48/5000 500A Victron SmartShunt RasperryPi4 with VenusOS Will you be connecting the BMS to the CerboGX so the BMS can control the charge voltage?
We're having issues with the JK BMS, it seems to short circuit disconnect anytime I enable charge and discharge 🤔 Yes I did notice the connection port for the BMS to Cerbo GX, it could be a possibility. Joe
@@JodieandJoe Does everything look OK in the app? If the BMS is cutting the connection the app should show the reason why. Have you set the correct settings in the JKBMS? E.g. Set battery type to Lifepo4, Cell Count to 8(as you are 24V) Capacity 600ah (As you have 2Cells paralleled)
I've had some practice with the Daly BMS in the past on my previous 280ah lifepo4. I'm pretty sure all the parameters I've entered are correct eg cell count and max charge and discharge current. It just keeps giving an error in the log saying short circuit disconnect and turning off. All the balance leads look correct and there's no short without the BMS so I'm stuck waiting for customer support.
@@JodieandJoe Maybe take a look at REC-BMS. It's easy to set up, and they have a model that works directly with victron over canbus - just plug it into your cerbo and you're good to go.
Great video, thank you and keep it up! Joe, please tell us more about the battery bank, where did you source the clamp for them, and what did you have to do with the BMS?
I'd really like a 24v battery but I haven't seen a way to charge a 24v battery from the alternator in a Boxer/Relay/Ducato? I've got the 300Ah cells to build the battery in either 12v or 24v.
My experience with Victron multi plus's you will need forced air cooling in addition to the inbuilt fan when past 75% load and above 25C. Inside your van on a sunny day could well pass that..
Good to know, were generally not pushing it past 3000w. What cooling would you recommend as I'm planning on making a video to see what it's max limits are
A small computer axial fan running off the 230v forcing air up , automated with a temp sensor at the top of the inverter near the heat sinks to turn a relay on at I would suggest 25C. Check what that 'high temp' point is with a high load ; the inverter just stops inverting until the temp drops. Note that one of Victron videos , the internal fan can be reduced ( nice and quiet ) in the settings when the load is low.
You've 16 300ah batteries in series and parallel so 2*300ah is 600ah of power but on your description it's written 15kw Battery storage ? Why ? ( Confused ) isn't that kWh ?
Have to say I agree with your choice of electricity over lpg in the van. Think I saw an induction plate on your mock-up kitchen a while back. As you say, 15kwh is way overkill for now...unless you plan on converting the engine to Hybrid ?
@@JodieandJoe ooh, I don't know, slide the propshaft centre bearing back 3mm, slip a pulley in behind the propshaft flange & a 10KW motor on the chassis for creeping along in traffic or a boost on the motorway...
We've got a video planned on how much everything cost. The victron prices are all available online, generally the chargers were £250 each and the inverter was £2000
Any chance y'all wanna link to the power cells for people that may want to also build their own power banks like y'all did, thank you much love from oregon usa :D
Don't pay her no mind; those batteries are pretty!! Well done! I did my first solar set up this year and I love to go look at it from time to time. Are they wired in a 24v set up and how many AH?
The electric system has worked flawlessly, we get about 5kw of solar on a sunny day without having to drive. So useful if you consume a lot of power like we do
Good question. We kind of fix everything as we go but the weakest part is probably the drinking water jug under the sink, we have to disconnect it before we drive which isn't very practical.
hey respect, a very cool series - everyone is an expert and full of comments and suggestions I guess - but I will say a toilet would be worth its weight in gold. keep going nearly there :)
We wanted an inverter that could one day power our home as well as our van. I would have preferred 48v but 24v was a happy middle ground that can be used in both the house and van to save us buying it twice 🚌⚡🏡
Check/test the breaker between mppt and the set. Those cheap automatic ones are know to be crap. Causing a lot of voltage drop (thus getting hot). Especially when running high currents. Might not affect this setup yet (i think this mppt is way oversized for a van - you can’t fit that much panels), it will when you’re going offgrid. (And having much more panels)
The solar controller seems to be a 100|50 -- 100V, 50A -- controlling 3 panels which probably max out around 40V 30A each. If they're in series that's 3x40V = 120V & if they're in parallel that's 3x30A = 90A. Either way the controller can't handle the full output of the panels. Given that they seem to be generous with the cash the obvious solution is to try to swap the 100|50 for three 100|30 controllers which would have the advantage they could get the van into partial shade sometimes. In the heatwave last week I had the shadow of one spindly branch 40 feet above across my single 220W panel & it dropped to 7W -- shadows make a ridiculous difference to solar panels & when they're chained together the output of the whole array matches the lowest panel.
It means we can live more like we're in a home than in a van. The Inverter is rated for 4000w constant and we can now run a 3600w dual hob, 3000w kettle, 1600w ninja foodie and a 1000w microwave.
So expensive 😩 But it for our home (eventually) so we wanted to buy the good stuff and get used to it! Eventually it will power our off grid home - just need to find where we want to live first 😁
@@JodieandJoe for vehicles always fine stranded wire, solid conductors are for buildings only. Make sure to crimp ferrules on the ends. I like that you use these conduits, thumbs up for that. Also, I hope you put an insulator like fibreboard between the cells. The case is conductive and if the thin blue wrap rubs trou, you have dead short on the series connections. You don‘t want that 😉.
This is taken from the victron website: The MultiPlus-II is ideally suited for professional marine, yachting, vehicle and land based off-grid applications.
You made a battery without a BMS and using grade B Docan cells, are you asking to be cooked alive? STOP what you are doing right now and go watch will prowse or some other DIY battery with BMS tutorial.
Big respect to Jodie for taking that golden opportunity of a classic debagging at 6:52. Well played.
PMSL😂😂😂😂when you pulled his shorts down. Good video.
Your van door scene was too funny! Lmao!
🤣
Best video so far.
Love the FF7 reference, Jodie spinning off into space and not to mention her unmentionables 😂 this is the best video so far!! Love ya both xx
Love you too!!
Your videos are getting better and more entertaining, keep it up x
Just been binge watching all of you videos, really enjoying your channel and am looking forward to seeing the finished product
WELL DONE and a MONSTER of eletrical system indeed! You may the rolling Power Supply! :) ALL THE BEST and Cheers from across the pond!! :)
Jodie your journey sounds amazing, loving the vids and you pantsing joe was hi-larious. So proud of u both !!
Saw the opportunity and took it 😂 xx
Very interesting, i love anything to do with solar power. Well done! Greetings from Jamaica.
Thank you! We love solar power too!
this is the most hilarious campervan page I ever found! xD xD
Literally spend my morning watching your videos ! Loved it ! I suscribed asap as possible 😂
Thank you!
♥️🥰
That kegg could not of been any better 😂😂
Enjoying the videos, looking forward to seeing the finished camper. You may want to think about different cable for the 240v as the solid cores can break easily with the movement of the van, best to use arctic blue which is a multi strand cable :D
Thanks for the heads up, we've covered all the 240v in conduit so we'll see how it holds
@@JodieandJoe the problem is, if it doesn't hold you're looking at a potential for fire :-\
You definitely need flexi cable in vehicles though I'm not convinced you need to go to the extreme of "arctic" cables indoors.
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Thanks for sharing!
Kkkkkkkk 6:54 top! Vocês são engraçados. Namastê
Thanks so much!! Xx
Just come across your videos, and have watched all of them, loved them all, and can’t wait to see some more 👍
Just watched all your videos on your van build , your a lovely couple and I hope it all works out for you but hurry up and post more 😂😂 really enjoying them 👍 oh and subscribed 👍
Thank you! The heat wave put us behind schedule (no way we'd get in that van in 40°c 🤣)
But we will post soon!
Thanks for subscribing and welcome to the madness! ♥️
jodie pulled down joes shorts what a laugh when he had his underpants either down as well our not wearing any lol great stuff you 2 i love it
Thanks John!
Great Video, Look forward to the next one. 👍
The final fantasy 7 battle won movement was EPIC!!
I know the theme is used in other ff games in different variations. But ff7 is my go to.
We love FF7!
Just binged watched all your episodes; what a great project! Looking forward to seeing more and you guys hitting the road.
Nice build guys 😎
Gonna be following the build 😁👍
Well done for all your efforts, guys. Really impressed. Just please promise me you will take out any coils in your wiring, they will overheat. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Best wishes x
Thanks!!
Great video naughty 😜 flash lol well done with the electrics all the best donny
Recommending to have your alternator & van modified for higher amperage output or add a secondary alternator just battery banks.
Using only the stock alternator for all of
Your recharging power will cause you alternator to fail.
It’s a good suggestion. Check the specs of the existing alternator and go from there based on what the DC-DC converter does. In modern vehicles it can be very tight in the engine bay for a second so an upgrade of the existing might be easiest.
Good idea, we will have to check our alternator's amp rating, Id expect it to handle the extra 30A from a single charger for now but possibly not a second.
@@JodieandJoe nice instal guys 😎 very neat and tidy 👍
as your using a decent BtoB your starter battery will get charged first then when it's full enough to need less amps the house battery will get charged, that will lessen the load on the alt way better than the old style VSR 🤔
Totally agree. Please watch this Victron video. ua-cam.com/video/jgoIocPgOug/v-deo.html. It shows a stock alternator burning out at low rpm. Stock alternators are not designed to provide continuous high output, as that’s not necessary in normal automotive requirements. I know you have the DC-DC to limit current and increase the voltage to 24V, but I believe even at that limited current, it will significantly shorten your alternator life if it is asked to do most of the charging. Adding a second DC-DC would make it worse with a stock alternator. While the Balmar and its regulator would be overkill, you should look for an alternator that is capable of a lot of amps at low rpm.
@J G, this setup puts the solar as the main charging system so the domestic battery should usually already be fully charged when the engine starts.
To defend the alternator the Victron DC-DC charger can be set to not connect till the engine battery is nearly charged, something like 13.8V
Alternators burn out at low speed (tickover) because their cooling fan isn't running fast enough, also they don't produce full charge at low speed, the solution is to bring the engine speed up slightly, I use a washer on a rubber band between the throttle arm & its stop, that way if I touch the throttle it pings out & I'm back to standard.
I recently got two 270 watt solar panels. Oh my god the difference on the cloudy day was a game changer. Seem to have a surplus of power now. Been running 3 fridgefreezer for 4 days. By batteries are still on float 😂😂
Hi, you two,
I came across your channel due to my contemplating an own campervan build. I have enjoyed watching your videos and found some good ideas in your design.
However, starting to look over the various electrical components with a mind for what I would like to put into my own van I noticed a few things I thought better to make you aware of.
1. Solar charger voltage rating. The specs for the solar panels you used indicate a max open circuit voltage of 34.1V, meaning 3 panels in series make for a max combined voltage of 102.3V. The MPPT 100/50 charger is rated at 100V max... I realize this is only a marginal overvoltage, however, I would have recommended the use of the MPPT 150/35 instead. It would still be sufficient for handling the power of your solar panels.
2. Looking at the battery bank I really like the metal bars used for connecting the individual cells. They ought to provide a very good connection. Unfortunately I do not like the apparent size of the cables, particularly those running from the battery to the Multiplus II. I fear you have chosen way too thin cables for the currents involved. Be sure to check the ratings with someone who do this professionally. Also, do NOT coil up the current carrying cables! Keep them short and straight! Coiling them up creates inductors that load the system and can cause serious overheating!
3. Just a comment: If you ever do a rebuild I would recommend using the Victron Lynx busbar system instead of the discrete design you appear to have used. It does not cost much more, and it makes for a simpler, neater and more stable solution.
Other than these issues I really like your approach to the van design. Not many people get anywhere near that amount of solar power in their van builds!
Also, your humour makes the videos even more enjoyable! Keep it up! Thumbs up from my side! Oh, and I'll probably end up with a shrine of my own some day! 🙂
Thanks Erik for your feedback, I'm not sure if we have since improved on this and not updated everyone but I'll try.
You are correct about the mppt however we have our panels connected in parallel so won't hit the 100v limit.
Our battery cables are 75mm2 and have never even got warm. They've since been cut to the correct length to avoid coiling. The only component that gets warm when charging at 120a is the DC cut off switch so I wouldn't recommend these and we have higher amp replacements ready to fit.
I would love the lynx and if you can afford it that would be a far safer component.
Thanks again I always appreciate feedback on the build!
@@JodieandJoe
While from an overvoltage point of view it is good that you use parallel and not serial connection of the solar panels it ends up causing another problem.
Neither solar panels nor batteries provide a fixed voltage. The output voltage of a battery depends on the charge state. The lower the charge, the lower the output voltage. Similarly with the solar panels, the more light shines down on the panels, the higher the output voltage.
On top of that you need to take the type of charger into consideration. The MPPT chargers are what is called Buck converters, it means they step the voltage down - and not up...
According to the MPPT specs the voltage from the solar panels must be at least 1V higher than the battery voltage in order for charging to take place, and at least 5V higher for the charging to start in the first place.
The net result is that your panels connected in parallel would be perfect for a 12V battery configuration - but not for a 24V. You will basically only get anything remotely resembling full use of your panels when the sun is fully out - and almost none when it is cloudy. Similarly the more charged your batteries are, the less they will be charged.
I would strongly recommend that you change to a series connection and replace the MPPT 100/50 with an MPPT 150/35, that way you will increase the solar charge efficiency significantly. Your current setup is marginal at best. Yeah, I know, you have the 100/50, not the 150/35... 😞
Please note that I am not writing this as just a layman - I am an electronics engineer with over 30 years of experience - and while solar panels are not normally part of my work tasks power supply design and batteries/charging is...
Best of luck to you two. Looking forward to seeing new videos!
You are correct with the mppt needing to be 5V over, this was something I didn't realise until after I bought it. I considered buying the 150/35 and arranging the panels in series but I really wanted to be in parallel for shading reasons so was waiting until summer to see what yield I get in peak sunlight. I have wondered if the system would work with a buck boost before the mppt but dismissed it and left it as is.
It would be very interesting to install the 150/35 with the panels in series and see how much more power it brings in, definitely worth trying!
Had your solar panels been slightly differently configured, more cells in series, say 8-10 V higher output, or your battery pack been 12V instead, I too would have gone with a parallel configuration. Partial shading performance would then be better. As it is, however, the panels simply do not output a high enough voltage to provide decent charging with a 24V battery setup, and I sincerely expect you to get more out of a series config. Both partially shaded, but even more so out of shade in cloudy conditions.
Buck boost converters could be an option, but there's a downside, the efficiency of these in boost mode is way lower than a buck converter like the MPPT series, which reach up to 98% or so efficiency. You'd more likely be talking 85-90% efficiency with a good converter... which is why I would not go for one myself. If I did I would still not use it in series with the MPPT but as a replacement for it.
I'll do some serious searching to see if I can find some other panels with a higher output voltage to provide a better balance - perhaps with a series AND parallel combination using 4 panels in a 2x2 config. Too bad, the panel size you found is just about as perfect as can be... 😞
I feel a lot more comfortable knowing that you use 75mm2 cables for the MultiplusII. They did look a lot thinner in the videos, though.
Cheers!
Sorry for bargin in on your conversation. Got really fascinated with this thread and Erik you sound like someone I might want to contact for any uncertainties in my own build. 😅
It was going well, then at 2:31 instant like 😂
My favourite childhood game!
Nice video 😊
That battery is beautiful
You are my new best friend - Joe 😊
10:38 Do you have a link to who you purchased the batteries from? Nice video by the way.
They were from Docan tech, battery info should be in the description.
Your build is looking well Jodie and Joe, but using a self built battery bank as the main source of power? I made a 200ah lifepo4 with a 100amp Daly bms as a back up just in case the Polinovel 200ah lifepo4 plays up, but it isn’t permanently connected to the main electrical system.
I keep the self made in the garage connected to a pure sine wave inverter (in a ‘stand alone mobile fashion’, instead of a generator) just to run a microwave, induction hob and some other mains appliances. I have Anderson connectors on everything so that Batteries can be interchanged or both charged using the same Victron b to b or Victron hook up charger.
I’ve never had any problems with my home built battery and think they are perfectly safe, but was put off using them as the main source of power because I was told that insurance companies won’t cover them and won’t pay out if an claim was attributed to home built lifepo4 batteries powering electrical systems?
I’m just wondering which insurance company you went with and what their take on them is as I’d definitely build a larger battery bank if I knew which insurer will allow me too.
Good videos, keep them coming.
Great videos, I am pretty much having the same electrical setup, would you mind telling me where the you connected the 2xP- and 2xB- BMS cables too in your setup. Thanks
I made 2 Y-cables so I could combine the double sides of the BMS into a single cable on each side. The B- went to the battery negative and the P- went to the SmartShunt
Enjoying your videos,I do van conversion’s for dog handlers.I am looking at them batteries now for my vans and I have contacted that company 👍👍
I saw all the Victron equipment and wondered if Thor's hammer was the power source. Nice build!
I really like your videos, one of the best out there, I just have a few recommendations, you need to use arctic flex core for your 240v (screwfix) and your 240v fusebox needs to be a dual poll if you go abroad. But keep up the good work.
Thanks Adrian, I will consider changing them. Do you know where I can find more information on these restrictions?
Just about to write the same thing. Twin and earth has one solid core, this can break easily with too much jiggling around. Arctic blue has multiple strands that give more jiggle factor and if one breaks there's more left
@@JodieandJoe
(cut'n'pasted from a Screwfix chat forum, Section 721 is about caravans & motor caravans.
Double pole I haven't found facts yet but it is at least 'highly recommended' & I don't think you can buy a unit that isn't double pole so that decision goes away anyway.
"All live conductors" may mean double pole, I'm not certain.
The way I read this you need an RCD in your 'shore line' hook up as well as in your own distribution panel though this seems a good idea anyway.)
18th Edition Wiring Regulations
Section 721
721.415.1 Additional protection: RCDs
Where protection by automatic disconnection of supply is used, a residual current device with a rated residual operating current not exceeding 30 mA, complying with BS EN 60947-2 (Annex B), BS EN 61008-1, BS EN 61009-1 or BS EN 62423 breaking all live conductors, shall be provided having the characteristics specified in 415.1.1.
Each supply inlet shall be directly connected to its associated RCD.
NOTE : This implies that there may not be any taps or junctions in this connection.
721.43 Protection against overcurrent
721.43.1 Final circuits
Each final circuit shall be protected by an overcurrent protective device which disconnects all live conductors of that circuit.
@@JodieandJoe caravan parks have a reputation for dodgy wiring so protecting your kit seems like a good idea anyway.
@@JodieandJoe it's my understanding that a "habitation check" will give you a certificate that's valid across the EU, even after Brexit, but check with a few caravan dealers before you go, especially ones near Dover & Folkestone who will have heard all the tales of woe from would-be travelers who have been turned back at Calais.
Joe…. Any chance you can do a tutorial on the victory in settings? Thanks
I would check out Andy @ Off-Grid Garage on UA-cam he is the king
I love the fact you have used many cells to create a big battery. Did you find it cost affective and easy to do??
Battery cells have now halved in price so it is now much more cost effective. I'd personally buy a battery enclosure now to hold the cells and BMS safety and tidy
Great build. But it looks as if You dont have any kind of BMS for the battery? Or am I missing anything?
We're using a JK BMS to keep everything in check!
According to the datasheet for the Victron Peak Power Battery with a capacity of 20Ah, it specifies a continuous output current of 30A from Output 2 and a nominal voltage of 12.8V. However, if the logic board consumes 12.8V at 14.7A, it is unclear if the battery will supply more current than the specified 14.7A to the logic board.! any tip is appreciated
I have no idea but we're only using AC out 1 well below 30A, but I do plan on doing a max output stress test soon
Get that BMS on there ASAP, if the cells discharge below 2.5V you'll find yourself ordering another set of batteries.
I have a very similar house setup to you that I built myself.
16xEVE 280ah
JKBMS
Multiplus-II 48/5000
500A Victron SmartShunt
RasperryPi4 with VenusOS
Will you be connecting the BMS to the CerboGX so the BMS can control the charge voltage?
We're having issues with the JK BMS, it seems to short circuit disconnect anytime I enable charge and discharge 🤔
Yes I did notice the connection port for the BMS to Cerbo GX, it could be a possibility.
Joe
@@JodieandJoe
Does everything look OK in the app?
If the BMS is cutting the connection the app should show the reason why.
Have you set the correct settings in the JKBMS?
E.g.
Set battery type to Lifepo4,
Cell Count to 8(as you are 24V)
Capacity 600ah (As you have 2Cells paralleled)
I've had some practice with the Daly BMS in the past on my previous 280ah lifepo4. I'm pretty sure all the parameters I've entered are correct eg cell count and max charge and discharge current. It just keeps giving an error in the log saying short circuit disconnect and turning off. All the balance leads look correct and there's no short without the BMS so I'm stuck waiting for customer support.
@@JodieandJoe that does sound like a cabling issue to me.
Do you have a photo of your installation?
@@JodieandJoe Maybe take a look at REC-BMS. It's easy to set up, and they have a model that works directly with victron over canbus - just plug it into your cerbo and you're good to go.
Does the inverter have any fan noise?
Not that I've heard yet, we've only pushed about 2000w so far and all we hear is a slight hum
Great video, thank you and keep it up! Joe, please tell us more about the battery bank, where did you source the clamp for them, and what did you have to do with the BMS?
Thank you, It was all custom built using aluminium rectangular tube. I used aluminium angle tightened together with lengths of 8mm threaded rod
@@JodieandJoe thats a great easy solution. Thanks for the update.
How much do you spend on all these left-behind cameras? Much love from Belfast. Loving the channel. Have rinsed every video today
We'll have left cameras across the globe by the time we are done 😂
@@JodieandJoe you should drive back and get them... that might save you a fortune... just saying :)
The battery needs a balancer to equalize the charge in the battery cells.
It has a JK BMS with a 2A active balance
Love the DIY Lithium Battery, much cheaper than the "luxury" Battleborn batteries!
Are battleborn's still £1000 per 1,200kwh? That would have cost us over 5 times the price
Impressive system, 👍
Thanks! 👍
I'd really like a 24v battery but I haven't seen a way to charge a 24v battery from the alternator in a Boxer/Relay/Ducato?
I've got the 300Ah cells to build the battery in either 12v or 24v.
There are plenty of 12-24v DC to DC chargers to choose from!
Great , was it flexible cable on your 110v side ?
Hi thinking of getting a van and converting myself in the new year. Was just wondering where you bought your victron equipment from
I got most of it from battery megastore, they occasionally have discounts on all victron items
Lol great vlog if you sqint you can see the little chap
Have to really squint... 👀👀😂
Hi guys brill video, could I get more information on your electrical system please🙏
Sure I'll make a victron and battery video soon!
15kw - you can go electric driving ;) - how much those batteries weigh? Thanks!
My experience with Victron multi plus's you will need forced air cooling in addition to the inbuilt fan when past 75% load and above 25C. Inside your van on a sunny day could well pass that..
Good to know, were generally not pushing it past 3000w. What cooling would you recommend as I'm planning on making a video to see what it's max limits are
A small computer axial fan running off the 230v forcing air up , automated with a temp sensor at the top of the inverter near the heat sinks to turn a relay on at I would suggest 25C. Check what that 'high temp' point is with a high load ; the inverter just stops inverting until the temp drops. Note that one of Victron videos , the internal fan can be reduced ( nice and quiet ) in the settings when the load is low.
Where did you buy the cells for your battery? Could you send me the link?
The link is in the description 👍
You've 16 300ah batteries in series and parallel so 2*300ah is 600ah of power but on your description it's written 15kw Battery storage ? Why ? ( Confused ) isn't that kWh ?
Your right! I'll update it thanks
Good job guys. We use victron on big house builds have alook on our u tube videos. If you need any help just ask.
Thanks, your install looks very pro!
@@JodieandJoe aww thanks love your Van install and the video blogs on the van build
looking good
steve
isle of wight
Have to say I agree with your choice of electricity over lpg in the van. Think I saw an induction plate on your mock-up kitchen a while back. As you say, 15kwh is way overkill for now...unless you plan on converting the engine to Hybrid ?
Maybe one day, but that's a lot of work!
@@JodieandJoe ooh, I don't know, slide the propshaft centre bearing back 3mm, slip a pulley in behind the propshaft flange & a 10KW motor on the chassis for creeping along in traffic or a boost on the motorway...
So how much did the victron system cost ,I’ve not come across any videos that say how much it all cost .a great video all the same
We've got a video planned on how much everything cost.
The victron prices are all available online, generally the chargers were £250 each and the inverter was £2000
HAHAHAAAA just laughed my ass off @6:50
Any chance y'all wanna link to the power cells for people that may want to also build their own power banks like y'all did, thank you much love from oregon usa :D
I have added the information to the description!
@@JodieandJoe thank you!!
@@JodieandJoe naming the music artists would be good too, it's good for their business
Don't pay her no mind; those batteries are pretty!! Well done! I did my first solar set up this year and I love to go look at it from time to time. Are they wired in a 24v set up and how many AH?
I check the BMS constantly, yep 600ah at 24v
hello I am from Australia and i just wanted to ask so you have 600ah at 24v? is that correct?
is the stepdown converters 24v to 12v? and how many amp?
Correct 600Ah at 24v which is over 15kwh. The two little Victron stepdown converters bring the 24v to a constant 12v with up to 20A each.
@@JodieandJoe pretty good system yous have there i think. hows the system going there? great solar, great amp hour capacity, 30Amp (24v dc to dc)
The electric system has worked flawlessly, we get about 5kw of solar on a sunny day without having to drive. So useful if you consume a lot of power like we do
@@JodieandJoe what would you consider your biggest downfall of the van right now
Good question. We kind of fix everything as we go but the weakest part is probably the drinking water jug under the sink, we have to disconnect it before we drive which isn't very practical.
hey respect, a very cool series - everyone is an expert and full of comments and suggestions I guess - but I will say a toilet would be worth its weight in gold. keep going nearly there :)
We have a portable one - it's just not made the video yet! 🤭😂
@@JodieandJoe power move .... nice
Nice one 🎶🎵🎶🎵
Loving the videos. Cant believe you managed all those electrics by yourself. Awesome. I’ll be hiring a professional for mine haha
Is your inverter marked up 24v on the box, I'm pretty sure you've got a 24v inverter
Yep we do!
@@JodieandJoe Why 24v and not 12v
We wanted an inverter that could one day power our home as well as our van. I would have preferred 48v but 24v was a happy middle ground that can be used in both the house and van to save us buying it twice 🚌⚡🏡
why not use 48 volts?
Looking back I would have preferred to go 48v. Maybe next time
@@JodieandJoe got it! I am just starting and learning about this... and looks like 48v is the future!
Slightly more dangerous but yes much thinner wires and better I'd say
Check/test the breaker between mppt and the set. Those cheap automatic ones are know to be crap. Causing a lot of voltage drop (thus getting hot). Especially when running high currents. Might not affect this setup yet (i think this mppt is way oversized for a van - you can’t fit that much panels), it will when you’re going offgrid. (And having much more panels)
The solar controller seems to be a 100|50 -- 100V, 50A -- controlling 3 panels which probably max out around 40V 30A each. If they're in series that's 3x40V = 120V & if they're in parallel that's 3x30A = 90A. Either way the controller can't handle the full output of the panels. Given that they seem to be generous with the cash the obvious solution is to try to swap the 100|50 for three 100|30 controllers which would have the advantage they could get the van into partial shade sometimes.
In the heatwave last week I had the shadow of one spindly branch 40 feet above across my single 220W panel & it dropped to 7W -- shadows make a ridiculous difference to solar panels & when they're chained together the output of the whole array matches the lowest panel.
What on earth are you powering with all that?!?
It means we can live more like we're in a home than in a van.
The Inverter is rated for 4000w constant and we can now run a 3600w dual hob, 3000w kettle, 1600w ninja foodie and a 1000w microwave.
All that blue stuff. Money money money. But victron is quality just bought a few bits for my budget van.
So expensive 😩
But it for our home (eventually) so we wanted to buy the good stuff and get used to it! Eventually it will power our off grid home - just need to find where we want to live first 😁
@@JodieandJoe I travelled for 3 years. The UK has never felt like home to me. But family of 6 now, so my travelling is a bit closer to home.
Best of luck with your travels!!
We are hitting the UK first - Wales and maybe Scotland. Then to Europe.
Hope you enjoy your van build! X
That multiplus is not 8000w output
The datasheet has a peak power of 9000W
@@JodieandJoe The surge is only for a couple of seconds, never recommended to use beyond 80% capacity of its 4000w capability so not more than 3200w
Thanks that's useful to know
You should not be using Twin & Earth for anything at all in a vehicle, or any single core cable where there is movement or vibration.
We address this in a later video
Joe and Jodie has a better ring to it.
Jodie is more important 😝😂😉
6:53 hahaha
I did not mean to get his boxers too 🤣🙈
5:22 do not use solid conductors in vehicles!
What would you suggest we use instead?
@@JodieandJoe for vehicles always fine stranded wire, solid conductors are for buildings only. Make sure to crimp ferrules on the ends. I like that you use these conduits, thumbs up for that.
Also, I hope you put an insulator like fibreboard between the cells. The case is conductive and if the thin blue wrap rubs trou, you have dead short on the series connections. You don‘t want that 😉.
We changed all the wiring to the blue arctic flex in a later video. Yep we put an insulated foam thing between each cell. Thanks for the tips!
Nice! Safe travels
Victron actually saying not to use any solid conductors in a vehicle system
Thanks we changed it to flexible in a later video
omg cant believe she actually pull his pants down in public lol
I did not mean to get his underpants too 😬🤣
This inverter is not for automotive applications
This is taken from the victron website:
The MultiPlus-II is ideally suited for professional marine, yachting, vehicle and land based off-grid applications.
@@JodieandJoe there is no Certificate Automotive ECE R10
😘❤️👍
20kg or 40kg?!? Just the double! 😂😂
Haha a slight difference
Twin & earth is for houses not vans.
Use arctic flex
We've had a lot of comments recommending the same so we'll be redoing the wiring. Is there any specific arctic flex you'd recommend?
@@JodieandJoe i use the blue 2.5mm
Excellent, we have just bought it! We'll include it in the next video 😌 thank you!
That bumhole poke thing is such a woman thing to do. Love the vids!
Can't help it!
i watched like 3 minutes of the video but that girl totally destroyed that guys feelings
No feelings were hurt in the making of this video 😂
beautiful girl
I'm a lucky man!
Gets the most expensive equipment then gets the cheapest batteries possible.
They were £2000 but yes the wooden box is very budget!
You made a battery without a BMS and using grade B Docan cells, are you asking to be cooked alive? STOP what you are doing right now and go watch will prowse or some other DIY battery with BMS tutorial.
You should also add Andy's off-grid garage to your list of recommendations!
Sponsored ? That is a shed load of cash there.
Victron is good, but I'm not paying their prices, there are good alternatives that don't cost so much.
That would be nice but unfortunately not. What brand would you recommend?
Another brilliant video guys 👍👍❤️ @bettyourcampervan xx
Thank you!!