Fantastic information really clear explanation, surfboards are the most amazing pieces of functional art - nothing like a beautifully crafted surfboard that you connect with in and out of the water. Always found it super interesting in the stab in the dark series where dane, jordy etc can feel the most minute differences between near identical shortboards. Oh yeah more podcasts please I've run out of ones to listen too they are awesome.
This is GOLD!! Thank you for making it so easy to understand (English is not my native language, but you are so on point with the info, even I can understand it)
Excellent caveat about overly relying on those last 6 inches. Sometimes it's more a short-hand signifier, as in "hand me that swallowtail please", "that bat-tail is so sick" or "that's a sweet thumbtail bro". Water will "cling" more to roundish curves in outline and rail back there but like you explained, there are more primary considerations. Rolling the board on its edge is a new one for me! I can now add that bit to my usual repertoire of knowing sightlines down the length, rail strokings, fingernail taps, edge fingerings, under-the-arm heftings, rulerwork, rocker rockings and various other impressive contortions and rituals as I go through the racks at my local surf shop haha!
First time viewer. Loved it! Great style in answering questions. Thanks. Would love to know about using a 2+1 vs. a typical 3 fin setup for an average surfer. Am I likely to feel much difference? Also, are deck pads becoming a thing again??
Hi, Your vids are extremely interesting. Digging all of them, they are great for understanding "regular" surfboards shapes, and I thank you very much for that. Now I'm struggling to mix them, to understand joe bauguess shape, keel twins 🤔🤯🤕🤒, and the right way to surf a mini simmons. I know that a lot of shapers reinveted the shape, and that it would be very long to analyse them all. Let stay focused on Joe's original shape, how it works, how to ride it, and keel fins influence (rasta keels as a bonus 😁) . It would be fantastic to watch a video explaining it with your approach. Nobody has done it before. It would be super useful for a lot of us...
Amaziiiiiiiing... I liked a lot the channel already before these videos.. but now I love it.. what an incredible job you are doing :) Aloha from Portugal!!
for Q1 about the outward toe - might help to show the water flow and where/what occurs with stall. Some folks might not have been exposed to laminar/turbulent and what effects it has on the actual fin, and subsequently the movement of the board in the water. Q about tails, man so much more info to discuss, the underside of the board is very important, thin/thick rails, the rate at which they curve, the flip, etc., and how the fins from the previous question, work into the tail. Also, having a couple physical demo boards to show people, 3D, vs dry erase. I would even take your game a step further and show a board in a pool or something like that. And if you're savvy, maybe some CFD sketches? Either way, I like what you're doing here. As a (former) engineer, it's been pretty annoying to hear the way people throw around terms and physics they don't seem to grasp from a fundamental level. Some board shapers don't even seem to be able to fully explain what the subtle nuances are doing. So keep it up. Good direction you're going.
Hi, good videos keep going. I couldn't get the info from video what tail is good for manouvers/big waves/small waves etc... What are the benefits if the tail is not so rounded? What is the benefit if the tail is rounded?
i always surf with my tail pads halfway back on the rear fin! I ride 6'6 to 7ft..they are my older guy shortboards..and i can still carve with the pad there.Ever notice everyone that puts there pads at the back ends up with depressions infront of the pad!! Thats because when they get up in there natural driving position they have way too much pad at the back! They just damage their boards! lol..the pads too far back! lol
Great tips thanks! My question for a coach is .... I surf a variety of boards between 6’3 and 9’3 and enjoy each of them but catch more waves on a larger board for the conditions on the day. To progress am I better to practice doing more manoeuvres on a larger board (eg. 7’4) or work with fewer waves on a smaller board (eg. 6’3)?
Bigger board. More waves the better. But mix it up for fun and to challenge yourself once in a while with smaller boards to test your progress. Most importantly stick to what’s more fun.
How too much forward or backward hard rail in the tail area affect ride and turnability in relation of the type of the board(fish and long maybe Need more soft for extra grip)and fin configuration( thruster, twin,quad,single)? Maybe talking of Extreme cases of hard rail (or soft)the whole lenght of the board.thanks!
You’re absolutely right Jason, and having the knowledge to identify what we are feeling is a fantastic tool along side that sensitivity. Thanks for watching!
I'm watching all your videos now, they're incredibly informative, super helpful ! May I ask, are "performative" softies a good option for an intermediate surfer to have fun? I see a lot of surfers shredding and having fun on tiny (good) softies, but are they really easy to use? I've been looking at a 5'0 ft, 32 L soft, (same volume of my standard board but, of course, a more forgiving design), does it really help catching waves and having fun despite not being too floaty? Thank you !
Personally, if I’m going to buy a soft top, I’d go a higher volume than my short board. Then you’ll catch more waves and have more speed and to me, more fun! Isn’t that what a soft top is for? Plus if you get confident on one, then it’s a great tool to practice pulling into tubes on, with less consequence.
Surf Simply Thank you so much for your reply, it definitely answers my question! p.s.: when I’ll see a rideable tube near my hometown, I’ll be ready 🌪🏄🏼♀️😁
Hi! I've got a question on fin size. I've never thought about it until I saw different size indications on fins in a surf shop recently. What exactly does finsize do to your board? I'm a heavy guy (105 kgs) and I'm wondering if more fin surface area would benefit me
and how obout the Shape of the fin, wide base or special ones like the AU fins...? love surf science why the windsurfers have very differently shaped fins?
Thanks for this video. You mentioned that it easier to turn the board when your back foot is in the center of the traction pad or even over the back fin. And you mentioned that you don't want to move your foot all around a lot. I have a follow up question. Do you put your back foot in that location only when you are turning, and then return it back forwards in front of the fins when you go straight? Or is the back foot on the traction pad all the time regardless of whether you are going straight or turning. I have a 7 foot board and am a beginner learning. Thanks!
So while most of the foot positioning is true ....I don't surf that way....I drive down the line with my back foot at or near the front leading edge of the front fins...sliding slightly back for pivot. I make boards for lots of guys that surf the same...generally older guys that learned to surf in the early 80s.
Hi there! Really nice videos. I would like to ask about the surfboard length. Lets say i have the exact same shortboard in different sizes. Which lenght would suit for which wave size? Thank you
Hi, i always find i have to rip off grips second-hand board and move them up higher on the board as I never stand right on the tail unless its a tiny small wave groveller board. One it doesn't protect the tail of the board as much right back as most of the sink I find will be up in front and around the middle of the tail where feet are usually placed for getting speed down the line. Two it looks to create drag as grip ends up so close to the rail and interrupts water flow off the back of the board somewhat but I didn't seem to notice when grips were right back. I always make sure my back fin is positioned forward more to get the release from the tail so I don't need to stand right back as I'm an advanced surfer that often moves weight along the board to try to maintain speed and momentum through turns. I guess its a really individual thing where people like to stand. Also, you need to add about the bottom contours ie v or concave in the tail as well as thickness and even rail shape and edges as these also affect the over feel of how a particular tail or board will surf. I like the trick of rolling along the rail for release in outline, will try that one. Regards
You didn’t explain much at all....🙄 don’t be scared of saying what width does. And for those who don’t believe and need scientific proof...just try different boards 🙄
You lost me about one minute in. No science? Have some respect for the greats that have designed and created modern surfboards. You’re talking about engineers and mathematicians.
He is answering questions mate, not talking about any engineers or mathematicians. If your asking questions about fins being placed back to front I’m sure as hell you don’t understand any science of surfing.
liquidbrickle not sure why you’re trying to come at me personally, but since you did... you missed the point of my comment entirely. If you have a seemingly large audience and successful UA-cam channel talking about surfboard design and concepts, maybe you ought to pay some respect to the minds that have gotten us to this point. Sure, some of it has been guesswork and pure observation, but a lot of these concepts are driven by hydrodynamics and some seriously smart people, well before UA-cam and the internet... it’s important to acknowledge this history and groundwork , otherwise it will be lost on people like you that find all of their knowledge on spoon-fed UA-cam shit. To make the kind of generalization that he did is ignorant, and dismisses those who have made the standards in which surfboard manufacturers now follow.
This was SOOOO helpful. I love the approach of this channel - so educational. ❤
The foot position & how such a minor change makes such a huge difference was quite informative and helpful, as your explanation of tails.
I was wondering if you could talk a bit about ocean mechanics like what makes some spots better on different tide directions and how rips form etc.
Love this channel, keep going!!
That makes us very happy Juan!
There's so much to learn about surf that I didn't know I didn't know. Thank you, once again.
Fantastic information really clear explanation, surfboards are the most amazing pieces of functional art - nothing like a beautifully crafted surfboard that you connect with in and out of the water. Always found it super interesting in the stab in the dark series where dane, jordy etc can feel the most minute differences between near identical shortboards. Oh yeah more podcasts please I've run out of ones to listen too they are awesome.
Best advice I've ever heard!! Wish I seen this video before I brought my new board
Very awesome video explanation!
This is GOLD!! Thank you for making it so easy to understand (English is not my native language, but you are so on point with the info, even I can understand it)
Excellent caveat about overly relying on those last 6 inches. Sometimes it's more a short-hand signifier, as in "hand me that swallowtail please", "that bat-tail is so sick" or "that's a sweet thumbtail bro". Water will "cling" more to roundish curves in outline and rail back there but like you explained, there are more primary considerations. Rolling the board on its edge is a new one for me! I can now add that bit to my usual repertoire of knowing sightlines down the length, rail strokings, fingernail taps, edge fingerings, under-the-arm heftings, rulerwork, rocker rockings and various other impressive contortions and rituals as I go through the racks at my local surf shop haha!
I appreciate your use of scientific terms there David, myself and the rest of the fingernail tapping community agree.
This channel has helped me so much, THANKS
First time viewer. Loved it! Great style in answering questions. Thanks.
Would love to know about using a 2+1 vs. a typical 3 fin setup for an average surfer. Am I likely to feel much difference? Also, are deck pads becoming a thing again??
Hi,
Your vids are extremely interesting. Digging all of them, they are great for understanding "regular" surfboards shapes, and I thank you very much for that.
Now I'm struggling to mix them, to understand joe bauguess shape, keel twins 🤔🤯🤕🤒, and the right way to surf a mini simmons. I know that a lot of shapers reinveted the shape, and that it would be very long to analyse them all. Let stay focused on Joe's original shape, how it works, how to ride it, and keel fins influence (rasta keels as a bonus 😁) . It would be fantastic to watch a video explaining it with your approach. Nobody has done it before. It would be super useful for a lot of us...
That last bit was pure gold brotha thanks 🤙
Super informative and concise! Thank you for these videos!
Glad you’re enjoying them Jim!
Amaziiiiiiiing... I liked a lot the channel already before these videos.. but now I love it.. what an incredible job you are doing :) Aloha from Portugal!!
Obrigado João!
for Q1 about the outward toe - might help to show the water flow and where/what occurs with stall. Some folks might not have been exposed to laminar/turbulent and what effects it has on the actual fin, and subsequently the movement of the board in the water. Q about tails, man so much more info to discuss, the underside of the board is very important, thin/thick rails, the rate at which they curve, the flip, etc., and how the fins from the previous question, work into the tail.
Also, having a couple physical demo boards to show people, 3D, vs dry erase. I would even take your game a step further and show a board in a pool or something like that. And if you're savvy, maybe some CFD sketches? Either way, I like what you're doing here. As a (former) engineer, it's been pretty annoying to hear the way people throw around terms and physics they don't seem to grasp from a fundamental level. Some board shapers don't even seem to be able to fully explain what the subtle nuances are doing. So keep it up. Good direction you're going.
this left me with too many questions
Love your feedback Thankyou!!
Good explanacion about a lot of doubts about designs of surfboards and yours ways in waves.Keep going.Regards of Brazil.
Excuse my poor english Bro.Good waves.
Hi, good videos keep going. I couldn't get the info from video what tail is good for manouvers/big waves/small waves etc... What are the benefits if the tail is not so rounded? What is the benefit if the tail is rounded?
Great info, love the ramble!
i always surf with my tail pads halfway back on the rear fin! I ride 6'6 to 7ft..they are my older guy shortboards..and i can still carve with the pad there.Ever notice everyone that puts there pads at the back ends up with depressions infront of the pad!! Thats because when they get up in there natural driving position they have way too much pad at the back! They just damage their boards! lol..the pads too far back! lol
SUPER INTERESTINGGGGGG
That was very interesting. As a beginner, I am always confused about the board shape.
I’m glad you enjoyed it Arthur, thanks for watching.
i think a lot of people who've been surfing a while are confused as well!! haha
Super awesome content. Love from LA
Great info you 're giving. Keep it coming.
Thanks for sharing that info. could you guys make a video about the correct position while paddling? thanks!!!!
Legends! Thanks for the video. So helpful.
Great tips thanks! My question for a coach is .... I surf a variety of boards between 6’3 and 9’3 and enjoy each of them but catch more waves on a larger board for the conditions on the day. To progress am I better to practice doing more manoeuvres on a larger board (eg. 7’4) or work with fewer waves on a smaller board (eg. 6’3)?
Bigger board. More waves the better. But mix it up for fun and to challenge yourself once in a while with smaller boards to test your progress. Most importantly stick to what’s more fun.
Wow! Nice discussion
Thanks Nias!
How too much forward or backward hard rail in the tail area affect ride and turnability in relation of the type of the board(fish and long maybe Need more soft for extra grip)and fin configuration( thruster, twin,quad,single)? Maybe talking of Extreme cases of hard rail (or soft)the whole lenght of the board.thanks!
So I guess that for twin fins you are putting your back foot on top of the fins for big turns, right?
Thing is so much of surfing goes by feel, and that varies from person to person
You’re absolutely right Jason, and having the knowledge to identify what we are feeling is a fantastic tool along side that sensitivity. Thanks for watching!
I'm watching all your videos now, they're incredibly informative, super helpful !
May I ask, are "performative" softies a good option for an intermediate surfer to have fun? I see a lot of surfers shredding and having fun on tiny (good) softies, but are they really easy to use? I've been looking at a 5'0 ft, 32 L soft, (same volume of my standard board but, of course, a more forgiving design), does it really help catching waves and having fun despite not being too floaty?
Thank you !
Personally, if I’m going to buy a soft top, I’d go a higher volume than my short board. Then you’ll catch more waves and have more speed and to me, more fun! Isn’t that what a soft top is for? Plus if you get confident on one, then it’s a great tool to practice pulling into tubes on, with less consequence.
Surf Simply Thank you so much for your reply, it definitely answers my question! p.s.: when I’ll see a rideable tube near my hometown, I’ll be ready 🌪🏄🏼♀️😁
Hi! I've got a question on fin size. I've never thought about it until I saw different size indications on fins in a surf shop recently. What exactly does finsize do to your board? I'm a heavy guy (105 kgs) and I'm wondering if more fin surface area would benefit me
and how obout the Shape of the fin, wide base or special ones like the AU fins...?
love surf science
why the windsurfers have very differently shaped fins?
The bigger fin will help you control your body weight, especially in steep waves. If the fin is too short it'll slide.
Thanks for this video. You mentioned that it easier to turn the board when your back foot is in the center of the traction pad or even over the back fin. And you mentioned that you don't want to move your foot all around a lot. I have a follow up question. Do you put your back foot in that location only when you are turning, and then return it back forwards in front of the fins when you go straight? Or is the back foot on the traction pad all the time regardless of whether you are going straight or turning. I have a 7 foot board and am a beginner learning. Thanks!
For a larger board you will have to shift your feet around more for sure.
So while most of the foot positioning is true ....I don't surf that way....I drive down the line with my back foot at or near the front leading edge of the front fins...sliding slightly back for pivot. I make boards for lots of guys that surf the same...generally older guys that learned to surf in the early 80s.
Hi there! Really nice videos.
I would like to ask about the surfboard length.
Lets say i have the exact same shortboard in different sizes. Which lenght would suit for which wave size?
Thank you
Good stuff
Thanks Ainsley
Sorry. You did not tell us about the fish tail. Or pin.
What is the flow chart on the board?
Great!
Can you try to leave links to the papers that they do research on the boards?
Hi Will, there are some links from Harry in the description.
OK
Hi, i always find i have to rip off grips second-hand board and move them up higher on the board as I never stand right on the tail unless its a tiny small wave groveller board.
One it doesn't protect the tail of the board as much right back as most of the sink I find will be up in front and around the middle of the tail where feet are usually placed for getting speed down the line.
Two it looks to create drag as grip ends up so close to the rail and interrupts water flow off the back of the board somewhat but I didn't seem to notice when grips were right back. I always make sure my back fin is positioned forward more to get the release from the tail so I don't need to stand right back as I'm an advanced surfer that often moves weight along the board to try to maintain speed and momentum through turns.
I guess its a really individual thing where people like to stand.
Also, you need to add about the bottom contours ie v or concave in the tail as well as thickness and even rail shape and edges as these also affect the over feel of how a particular tail or board will surf.
I like the trick of rolling along the rail for release in outline, will try that one.
Regards
You didn’t explain much at all....🙄 don’t be scared of saying what width does.
And for those who don’t believe and need scientific proof...just try different boards 🙄
had to stop the video its raining too hard to hear ,damn metal roofs . love living in nosara
I like how my tail isn't in here🤣🤣🤣
“Ahhokay”
Why are you so cute harry ?
You lost me about one minute in. No science? Have some respect for the greats that have designed and created modern surfboards. You’re talking about engineers and mathematicians.
He is answering questions mate, not talking about any engineers or mathematicians. If your asking questions about fins being placed back to front I’m sure as hell you don’t understand any science of surfing.
liquidbrickle not sure why you’re trying to come at me personally, but since you did... you missed the point of my comment entirely. If you have a seemingly large audience and successful UA-cam channel talking about surfboard design and concepts, maybe you ought to pay some respect to the minds that have gotten us to this point. Sure, some of it has been guesswork and pure observation, but a lot of these concepts are driven by hydrodynamics and some seriously smart people, well before UA-cam and the internet... it’s important to acknowledge this history and groundwork , otherwise it will be lost on people like you that find all of their knowledge on spoon-fed UA-cam shit. To make the kind of generalization that he did is ignorant, and dismisses those who have made the standards in which surfboard manufacturers now follow.
@@sctim123 you’re missing the point of the video. He isn’t talking about the science of it. He’s answering questions.