The Social Regressive Meh, I just lucked out with the table on the sander being able to bevel..otherwise I prolly would of just squared it off meself too.. thanks for the vid tho, it gave me that little push to just say frack it and do it myself!!
I really like following this project. I think it is because it is an attainable, fairly cheap rifle treated with care and consideration. It's more inspiring than a super expensive project. Also the narrating is very good because it is both technical and has thoughts and speculation in it too. It becomes a journey that way. Fantastic format!
Thanks, bro! The neat thing is that after all this work it doesn't come across as a cheap rifle. It feels very good on the firing line and it shoots well. Wait 'til you see what swapping some of these parts does. I tested it a couple of days ago and I cut my 600-yard group size down to...well, you'll see.
Never hurts to leave the recoil pad standing proud .003-.005 all the way around. It reduces the risk of chipping wood from impact on the edges of butt.
need this done to my Marlin 336. I'm changing the buttstock and the one on the rifle already has this on and i believe the original buttplate. i can't see the screws at all, so I'm guessing this is what they have done. glad to have found this video.
I picked it up for 370$. It has a wood stock from the factory. I will glass bed it and get a kydex cheek riser. Maybe do some trigger work. Gonna be a coyote gun so the barrel will stay sporter profile. After i save up for a swfa 3-15 the whole rig will get camo painted.
I like a gun with purpose. Especially when that purpose is varminting. :D And what a great cartridge for that purpose; that'll be like a laser beam. I've often wondered why I don't see more varminters using camouflage on their guns or persons. Prairie dogs and coyotes can see extremely well. I would want all the competitive advantage I can get.
Just got back from the range with my Savage axis II .243 build, first outing with handloads. Average group size of .72" with smallest group of .55" at 100yds. 5 shot groups, 5 strings of fire. 105gr A-Max on a federal case with a federal 210 primer, 38.5gr of IMR4350. So damn happy with this rifle right now, maybe I should start making some videos myself. Your build is looking awesome man, your stock reshape is making me want to do mine
That's impressive performance and a fantastic round. In fact, it's my favorite cartridge. I just wish my .243 would stabilize those 105s. I bought 500 of the 105 BTHP bullets only to discover that I couldn't really stabilize them with my twist rate. It was supposed to be a 1:9.25, but I think they goofed on my barrel and gave me a 1:10. You should post some videos! If you do, let me know!
+The Social Regressive, If I do I'll definitely let you know man, and if these 105s keep performing for me like they have so far, I might hit you up to get the remainder of those 500 you've got from you if you're willing to sell them. Keep up the good work man
8 років тому
Wow, she looks Great. Coming along very nice. You have made an heirloom quality rifle.
Hi RJ Owner of Ellis Family Motorcycle & ATV Repair. Love your youtube channel. I like how detailed and how you explain stuff. Your video on the 350 Legend help me out a lot. So much so both of my kids where able to harvest both of there first deer this year and both of them on the same day and your video on the ballistics of all the 350 legend ammunition help to pick the right ammo for the job. So thank you But now I’m a proud owner of a Savage 450 bushmaster and I don’t see any good videos on the ballistics of all the ammunition. I’m shoot Hornady Blacks but I’m interested in seeing the Remington AccuPoint Hornady, All American Whitetail Hornaday Custom Hornaday Black And Winchester, Hunter XP If you could please do a video shooting ballistic gel to show what each one of these ammunition does I’d appreciate it very much. Thank you for your time and keep up with the video. RJ
I have really enjoyed watching this project. So much so that I ordered a pro varmint stock for my model 11, in .308. I ordered mine with the Pachmayr after watching you mention that the Boyd's standard was not comfortable under the recoil of a .308. I plan to pillar and glass bed, just as you did. Please do a video on the load that you end up using. I had planned to start working up loads today using 165 gun Nosler Partitions and Varget. I'll be curios to see where you land.
That's awesome, man! I think you'll really like the shape of the Pro Varmint. The load I'm currently using is 41 grains of Varget, and it shows good potential. The only problem is that the pressures are a bit too close to the edge of danger. I'm going to try a load with a milder powder.
What size bullet are you using and what is your seating depth. I loaded 165 Nosler Partition bullets with 42 - 44.5 grains of Varget today (1/2 grain increments). I based my loads on the Nosler manual. The Nosler manual shows a minimum load of 42 and a max load of 46 grains. If you're showing signs of pressure at 41 grains, I am a little concerned about my loads.
For some reason I was thinking that your rifle was a 308 as well. Makes me feel better about the loads that I worked up. I'm still very new to reloading.
jbj92300 A world of agony and ecstasy awaits you. :D Handloaded ammo takes your shooting to a new level, but it's a constant tweaking game. Good, clean, nerdy fun.
I really like your videoss, and the fact that you thought of building a target rifle on a budget. Too many people just go out and get the most expensive rifle and shoot off a 300$ shooting stand. So, well done for that build. I have a Savage Axis 2 chambered in .223 (the local range is rather small) coming my way, and I had a question about the bolt throw. Many have complained about the fact that the knob barely clear the scope that's on the rifle. What are your thoughts on that, and should I wait and buy the Savage Axis Precision rifle for roughly 700$ more? One has to think that the last rifle comes in a MDT chassis, a threaded barrel and a 20MOA scope rail. Considering that a Boyd's stock is 350$, a rail is 50$, and that I cannot put any device at the end of the barrel, I think I might pass on that purchase. All the number I mentionned are all in Canadian dollars. Thanks for your input and keep up the good work.
I think it depends on what you plan to do with your gun. If you plan hunt, you might still consider the boyds. Their hunter shapes are excellent. If you want a tactical/ target rig that you can fire suppressed, the mdt would probably be worth it in the long run. As for the bolt throw, yes it's close. I've had no problems myself.
(4:54) I won't hide the screw heads. Rather, it'll b better to use longer screws and keep the heads exposed after the rubber cushion had mated w the wooden buttstock. This is bc. if u strip the screw head (as my used previous gun owner had done), it'll b very difficult to take those screw out. So what if u or ur shooting buddies make comment on the shinny exposed screw head on the recoil pad? And it won't hurt ur shoulder either. Had to slice off the rubber to expose the stripped scrw hds. I kant use the original (prev. owner's) recoil pads any more, must spend $20 - $30 for a new one. There comes a time when u'll need to access the long bolt head that attach the buttstk to the receiver and the recoil pad must come out easily!!! I did appreciated ur chaulk method. For my case, i just drill the two holes all the way thru from the back, w/o the use of Mr. Xacto knife. Make sure to use a drill press to drill the holes perpendicularly. If u don't have a drll prss, then drill perpendicular hole thru a piece of 2 x 4 using someding(something) that is square as a reference, drill a hole w ur hand drill, then use that as a guide to drill perpendicular holes thru the recoil pad n buttstk. Yes, a light removable glue at the back of the pad would help too.
Great tip using grease! I have Pro Varmint w/ Axis .223 I'm having trouble keeping the magazine in the little clip on it doesn't engage to my liking any ideas? Still waiting to here from Boyds'?
Interesting. I suppose my first thought is to shim the back side. There is a little piece of black plexiglas that holds the rear of the magazine in place. If you add a thin metal shim to the front of that, you might tighten the connection.
DON C I have a few more upgrades that I'll be applying to this rifle: 20MOA base, better scope, cheek riser, lead weight. I also want to develop a milder load. The Varget load I've been using performs well, but the pressures are high. I'd like to back off a bit and avoid sticky brass.
I just picked up a cheek-rest works so much better. I got the Magazine working better than ever I put a little strip of plastic on the tab/clip of the mag. used a little bit of Epoxy, now it snaps in and best it stays in I think I know what the trouble was Boyds' had a customer return on this stock I got it for $75.99 Thanks for your, help
I really need to get one of these boyds for my tikka. only problem i have is, i have the CTR model which has a different bottom metal and uses TRG mags, and they're saying its not compatible... but i think my dremel will make quick work of that! what do you think? lol also, they offer both a pachmayr decellerator and the limbsaver as options, which one should i get? i hear the limbsaver is softer? if thats case i might go with the pachmayr, since i'm only shooting 260 rem. I also want to build a savage axis II XP in 223 now as a trainer rifle because of your series!
Sounds like two excellent projects. The Tikka question is a tricky one. There may be some dimensional differences in addition to the bottom metal. You might want to check around first. Cutting an inlet for the bottom metal is possible. You'll probably need to use a router and build some kind of jig to prevent cutting too deep or making the cuts too long. Not an easy task, and it's not one that I've personally tried. As far as the recoil pad goes, .260 (great choice) is pretty tame, so you shouldn't have an issue either way. Keep me posted on your builds! Folks have reported good accuracy with their .223 Axis rifles, but I haven't tried one myself.
So instead of looking at the Axis rifles, I've found a few options in the Mossberg MVP. having shot a few, both in 223 and 308, i'm convinced this platform is my best option. it borrows heavily from the Savage platform, but having STANAG mag options is HUGE for me, especially for 223. I spent some time behind my buddies, although he didn't have the same version I would choose, it makes an EXCELLENT fundamentals training rifle. just ordered the boyds, chose the pachmayr buttpad vs limbsaver, because a few reviews said the limbsaver is a bit softer, which is great for recoil absorption, but everything sticks to it and they get damaged/nicked/wear out easily. i'll probably do a video when I get it, seeing how the CTR fits up vs the standard bottom metal, and if just a bit of dremel work will finish it off. even if i accidentally over cut it, i'm thinking I could just bed the bottom metal with some JB weld. i'll be bedding anyways probably, though only after I do some out of the box accuracy testing. EDIT: also in the works -- G3 magazine conversion for CTR mags. CTR mags are TRG mags, which are $150+ new. G3 mags are like 4-6$ each. a bit of cutting and some bending/welding and you can have a spare mag.
nice job. I have a savage axis 7mm-08 with a boyds stock on it too. Shoots really accurate, but that pad does start to get old. it kicks harder than my 270. My 7 mag has a nice pad and a muzzle brake. It's more fun to shoot than that axis. lol
Pachmyer sells brass templates that shows u the metal base of the different sizes of pachmyer pads. make sure the pad u use has a metal base smaller than the dimensions of the stock or that is the size u will grind down the pad to. Or use kick-ezz pad that does not have a metal base and u can grind.as.much off as u want. Also u should never grind or nick your wood/stock. Buy a pad grinding jig brownells or miday and.the part.of the pad u scribe will up not down.and u can see the scribe line to grind to. It will.also handle toe angle. U should never plan to stain or poly your stock. This guy really needs to look at the tutorials online.
No this is not how you install a recall pad, or a rifle pad. Use dishwashing liquid as a lubricant get you a fixture for Brownell's to set your toe angle. Get you a scribe to carve around the stock to get the the dimensions of the stock, to grind a fit. Feel the conditions of the pad with chalk; you can find this at any hardware store.
I've been running a Boyds Pro Varmint Thumbhole on my 700 .308. Not until I watched this video did I ever think of swapping out the butt pad. I have to say I'm glad I did. Recoil management was way easier. Also I know you said you wanted to do a cheek riser. Check this guys out...www.scout.com/military/snipers-hide/forums/5539-diy/13260368-from-bell-carlson-tactical-medalist-to-mcmillian-a5 that be a cool video I'd like to see you do.
That Boyds pad reminds of the first time I fired a Mosin while flat on my belly. The first shot is fine, and it's all downhill after that. Thanks for the link. It looks like a feasible, cheap, practical way to get a nice riser. I had discounted the idea because in my head it was too complicated. This looks doable.
Also from Brownell's, get you a recall pad templates they are made of brass to find the size that you need of recall pad for your stock. This guy has no idea of what he's doing.
Pachmyer base templates show u the size of the metal base or insert in a small med or large pachmyer pad so u can buy a pad size with metal insert smaller than the stock dimensions. It really does no show u the outside dimensions of the finished pad. Just make sure the metal insert is smaller than the dimension u have 2 grind 2 on pad and u won't expose the metal base in pad like this guy did. Really looks cheap.
Nice!!...I just did one of these too but with a spindle sander and an adjustable table...for anyone who cares the toe angle is 6°..
Very cool. I just squared my toe off. I like your idea better.
The Social Regressive Meh, I just lucked out with the table on the sander being able to bevel..otherwise I prolly would of just squared it off meself too.. thanks for the vid tho, it gave me that little push to just say frack it and do it myself!!
I really like following this project. I think it is because it is an attainable, fairly cheap rifle treated with care and consideration. It's more inspiring than a super expensive project. Also the narrating is very good because it is both technical and has thoughts and speculation in it too. It becomes a journey that way.
Fantastic format!
Thanks, bro! The neat thing is that after all this work it doesn't come across as a cheap rifle. It feels very good on the firing line and it shoots well. Wait 'til you see what swapping some of these parts does. I tested it a couple of days ago and I cut my 600-yard group size down to...well, you'll see.
Never hurts to leave the recoil pad standing proud .003-.005 all the way around. It reduces the risk of chipping wood from impact on the edges of butt.
This helped me. I was pissed when I unscrewed my cheap-ass Boyds pad and it wouldn't budge. The ol' vise trick was all it took.
Yup! I seriously thought mine was glued in place.
need this done to my Marlin 336. I'm changing the buttstock and the one on the rifle already has this on and i believe the original buttplate. i can't see the screws at all, so I'm guessing this is what they have done. glad to have found this video.
I hope it works out for you!
Your rifle is coming along good. This series made me go buy a savage 111 lefthanded in 25-06. Cant wait to start tinkering with it.
The 111 is a real gem. I can't believe how good the prices are on that thing. What plans do you have for it?
I picked it up for 370$. It has a wood stock from the factory. I will glass bed it and get a kydex cheek riser. Maybe do some trigger work. Gonna be a coyote gun so the barrel will stay sporter profile. After i save up for a swfa 3-15 the whole rig will get camo painted.
I like a gun with purpose. Especially when that purpose is varminting. :D And what a great cartridge for that purpose; that'll be like a laser beam.
I've often wondered why I don't see more varminters using camouflage on their guns or persons. Prairie dogs and coyotes can see extremely well. I would want all the competitive advantage I can get.
I camo all my field guns. Some people are afraid to make their guns "ugly". I just use spray paint and change the camo for the different seasons.
Just got back from the range with my Savage axis II .243 build, first outing with handloads. Average group size of .72" with smallest group of .55" at 100yds. 5 shot groups, 5 strings of fire. 105gr A-Max on a federal case with a federal 210 primer, 38.5gr of IMR4350. So damn happy with this rifle right now, maybe I should start making some videos myself. Your build is looking awesome man, your stock reshape is making me want to do mine
Also, love the built Ford tough hat in the background. You have good taste my friend
That's impressive performance and a fantastic round. In fact, it's my favorite cartridge. I just wish my .243 would stabilize those 105s. I bought 500 of the 105 BTHP bullets only to discover that I couldn't really stabilize them with my twist rate. It was supposed to be a 1:9.25, but I think they goofed on my barrel and gave me a 1:10.
You should post some videos! If you do, let me know!
And how about the Blame the Dog shirt? I totally forgot I was wearing that thing.
+The Social Regressive, If I do I'll definitely let you know man, and if these 105s keep performing for me like they have so far, I might hit you up to get the remainder of those 500 you've got from you if you're willing to sell them. Keep up the good work man
Wow, she looks Great. Coming along very nice. You have made an heirloom quality rifle.
Thanks, Eddie! This is one that I get a little thrill from every time I pick it up. It has come a long way.
Very cool. Also, use soap instead of grease on the scredriver and holes as it wont eat the rubber afterwards.
Good idea!
Hi RJ Owner of Ellis Family Motorcycle & ATV Repair.
Love your youtube channel. I like how detailed and how you explain stuff.
Your video on the 350 Legend help me out a lot. So much so both of my kids where able to harvest both of there first deer this year and both of them on the same day and your video on the ballistics of all the 350 legend ammunition help to pick the right ammo for the job. So thank you
But now I’m a proud owner of a Savage 450 bushmaster and I don’t see any good videos on the ballistics of all the ammunition. I’m shoot Hornady Blacks but I’m interested in seeing the
Remington AccuPoint
Hornady, All American Whitetail
Hornaday Custom
Hornaday Black
And
Winchester, Hunter XP
If you could please do a video shooting ballistic gel to show what each one of these ammunition does I’d appreciate it very much.
Thank you for your time and keep up with the video.
RJ
Very nice installation, that will help alot. The Rifle looks very awesome.
And it feels a ton better now.
I have really enjoyed watching this project. So much so that I ordered a pro varmint stock for my model 11, in .308. I ordered mine with the Pachmayr after watching you mention that the Boyd's standard was not comfortable under the recoil of a .308. I plan to pillar and glass bed, just as you did. Please do a video on the load that you end up using. I had planned to start working up loads today using 165 gun Nosler Partitions and Varget. I'll be curios to see where you land.
That's awesome, man! I think you'll really like the shape of the Pro Varmint.
The load I'm currently using is 41 grains of Varget, and it shows good potential. The only problem is that the pressures are a bit too close to the edge of danger. I'm going to try a load with a milder powder.
What size bullet are you using and what is your seating depth. I loaded 165 Nosler Partition bullets with 42 - 44.5 grains of Varget today (1/2 grain increments). I based my loads on the Nosler manual. The Nosler manual shows a minimum load of 42 and a max load of 46 grains. If you're showing signs of pressure at 41 grains, I am a little concerned about my loads.
jbj92300
I'm shooting a 7mm 162-grain ELD Match bullet from a 7mm-08 chamber. My COAL is 2.947" if I remember correctly.
For some reason I was thinking that your rifle was a 308 as well. Makes me feel better about the loads that I worked up. I'm still very new to reloading.
jbj92300
A world of agony and ecstasy awaits you. :D Handloaded ammo takes your shooting to a new level, but it's a constant tweaking game. Good, clean, nerdy fun.
I really like your videoss, and the fact that you thought of building a target rifle on a budget. Too many people just go out and get the most expensive rifle and shoot off a 300$ shooting stand. So, well done for that build. I have a Savage Axis 2 chambered in .223 (the local range is rather small) coming my way, and I had a question about the bolt throw. Many have complained about the fact that the knob barely clear the scope that's on the rifle. What are your thoughts on that, and should I wait and buy the Savage Axis Precision rifle for roughly 700$ more? One has to think that the last rifle comes in a MDT chassis, a threaded barrel and a 20MOA scope rail. Considering that a Boyd's stock is 350$, a rail is 50$, and that I cannot put any device at the end of the barrel, I think I might pass on that purchase. All the number I mentionned are all in Canadian dollars. Thanks for your input and keep up the good work.
I think it depends on what you plan to do with your gun. If you plan hunt, you might still consider the boyds. Their hunter shapes are excellent. If you want a tactical/ target rig that you can fire suppressed, the mdt would probably be worth it in the long run. As for the bolt throw, yes it's close. I've had no problems myself.
(4:54) I won't hide the screw heads. Rather, it'll b better to use longer screws and keep the heads exposed
after the rubber cushion had mated w the wooden buttstock. This is bc. if u strip the screw head (as my
used previous gun owner had done), it'll b very difficult to take those screw out. So what if u or ur shooting
buddies make comment on the shinny exposed screw head on the recoil pad? And it won't hurt ur shoulder
either. Had to slice off the rubber to expose the stripped scrw hds. I kant use the original (prev. owner's)
recoil pads any more, must spend $20 - $30 for a new one. There comes a time when u'll need to access
the long bolt head that attach the buttstk to the receiver and the recoil pad must come out easily!!!
I did appreciated ur chaulk method. For my case, i just drill the two holes all the way thru from the back,
w/o the use of Mr. Xacto knife. Make sure to use a drill press to drill the holes perpendicularly. If u don't
have a drll prss, then drill perpendicular hole thru a piece of 2 x 4 using someding(something) that is
square as a reference, drill a hole w ur hand drill, then use that as a guide to drill perpendicular holes thru
the recoil pad n buttstk. Yes, a light removable glue at the back of the pad would help too.
Why didn't you just stand the wood butt on some paper and trace a template out?
Great tip using grease! I have Pro Varmint w/ Axis .223 I'm having trouble keeping the magazine in the little clip on it doesn't engage to my liking any ideas? Still waiting to here from Boyds'?
Interesting. I suppose my first thought is to shim the back side. There is a little piece of black plexiglas that holds the rear of the magazine in place. If you add a thin metal shim to the front of that, you might tighten the connection.
Thanks, that seems like what I'm going to do. What do you, have planned for your next project?
DON C
I have a few more upgrades that I'll be applying to this rifle: 20MOA base, better scope, cheek riser, lead weight. I also want to develop a milder load. The Varget load I've been using performs well, but the pressures are high. I'd like to back off a bit and avoid sticky brass.
I just picked up a cheek-rest works so much better. I got the Magazine working better than ever I put a little strip of plastic on the tab/clip of the mag. used a little bit of Epoxy, now it snaps in and best it stays in I think I know what the trouble was Boyds' had a customer return on this stock I got it for $75.99 Thanks for your, help
DON C
Nice! That was a good thought. Just out of curiosity, which cheek rest did you buy?
how did you clean up the nick in the butt pad? I did the exact same thing to my pad
I just painted it over with a little black enamel.
How bad is the original pad? I messed up and forgot to order an upgraded one
It's very thin. If you picked a cartridge with any recoil, it'll hurt after a few rounds.
Mines a suppressed 7.62x39 so I don’t really know?
That's not too rough. Worth a try at least! If it's too uncomfortable, you can buy a limbsaver.
Cool yeah, how would a slip on limbsavsr work?
It should stick pretty well. Just a matter of getting the right size.
I really need to get one of these boyds for my tikka. only problem i have is, i have the CTR model which has a different bottom metal and uses TRG mags, and they're saying its not compatible... but i think my dremel will make quick work of that! what do you think? lol
also, they offer both a pachmayr decellerator and the limbsaver as options, which one should i get? i hear the limbsaver is softer? if thats case i might go with the pachmayr, since i'm only shooting 260 rem.
I also want to build a savage axis II XP in 223 now as a trainer rifle because of your series!
Sounds like two excellent projects. The Tikka question is a tricky one. There may be some dimensional differences in addition to the bottom metal. You might want to check around first.
Cutting an inlet for the bottom metal is possible. You'll probably need to use a router and build some kind of jig to prevent cutting too deep or making the cuts too long. Not an easy task, and it's not one that I've personally tried.
As far as the recoil pad goes, .260 (great choice) is pretty tame, so you shouldn't have an issue either way.
Keep me posted on your builds! Folks have reported good accuracy with their .223 Axis rifles, but I haven't tried one myself.
So instead of looking at the Axis rifles, I've found a few options in the Mossberg MVP. having shot a few, both in 223 and 308, i'm convinced this platform is my best option. it borrows heavily from the Savage platform, but having STANAG mag options is HUGE for me, especially for 223. I spent some time behind my buddies, although he didn't have the same version I would choose, it makes an EXCELLENT fundamentals training rifle.
just ordered the boyds, chose the pachmayr buttpad vs limbsaver, because a few reviews said the limbsaver is a bit softer, which is great for recoil absorption, but everything sticks to it and they get damaged/nicked/wear out easily.
i'll probably do a video when I get it, seeing how the CTR fits up vs the standard bottom metal, and if just a bit of dremel work will finish it off. even if i accidentally over cut it, i'm thinking I could just bed the bottom metal with some JB weld. i'll be bedding anyways probably, though only after I do some out of the box accuracy testing.
EDIT: also in the works -- G3 magazine conversion for CTR mags. CTR mags are TRG mags, which are $150+ new. G3 mags are like 4-6$ each. a bit of cutting and some bending/welding and you can have a spare mag.
nice job. I have a savage axis 7mm-08 with a boyds stock on it too. Shoots really accurate, but that pad does start to get old. it kicks harder than my 270. My 7 mag has a nice pad and a muzzle brake. It's more fun to shoot than that axis. lol
Just a little extra padding makes such a huge difference.
Terrific.
Once you have cut into the metal it would be more professional to just start over with a new pad.
Specifically a smaller pad.
Pachmyer sells brass templates that shows u the metal base of the different sizes of pachmyer pads. make sure the pad u use has a metal base smaller than the dimensions of the stock or that is the size u will grind down the pad to.
Or use kick-ezz pad that does not have a metal base and u can grind.as.much off as u want.
Also u should never grind or nick your wood/stock. Buy a pad grinding jig brownells or miday and.the part.of the pad u scribe
will up not down.and u can see the scribe line to grind to. It will.also handle toe angle.
U should never plan to stain or poly your stock. This guy really needs to look at the tutorials online.
Fun ideas, but remember that this build is on a serious budget using common gear.
You sound like Michael Scott from Dunder Mifflin.
No this is not how you install a recall pad, or a rifle pad. Use dishwashing liquid as a lubricant get you a fixture for Brownell's to set your toe angle. Get you a scribe to carve around the stock to get the the dimensions of the stock, to grind a fit. Feel the conditions of the pad with chalk; you can find this at any hardware store.
You can also use a scribe to push the hose through the pad, also use dishwashing liquid as a lubricant.
And that's the way it is.
I see you watch the Larry Potterfield of MidwayUSA video too.
two ads with no opt out kept me from watching your video
Yikes. I'm sorry to hear that. Those annoy me, too. Maybe I can change some settings.
Done. No non-skip ads.
I've been running a Boyds Pro Varmint Thumbhole on my 700 .308. Not until I watched this video did I ever think of swapping out the butt pad. I have to say I'm glad I did. Recoil management was way easier.
Also I know you said you wanted to do a cheek riser. Check this guys out...www.scout.com/military/snipers-hide/forums/5539-diy/13260368-from-bell-carlson-tactical-medalist-to-mcmillian-a5
that be a cool video I'd like to see you do.
That Boyds pad reminds of the first time I fired a Mosin while flat on my belly. The first shot is fine, and it's all downhill after that. Thanks for the link. It looks like a feasible, cheap, practical way to get a nice riser. I had discounted the idea because in my head it was too complicated. This looks doable.
The Social Regressive I don't know if you read his whole post, but at the end, he did the same thing for his son's Savage in a Boyds stock.
Chris Holman
Yeah; I saw that. It looks really nice.
www.sniperforums.com/forum/gunsmithing/50394-cheek-riser-help-2.html
Not as fancy, but here's my DIY cheek riser.
Also from Brownell's, get you a recall pad templates they are made of brass to find the size that you need of recall pad for your stock. This guy has no idea of what he's doing.
Pachmyer base templates show u the size of the metal base or insert in a small med or large pachmyer pad so u can buy a pad size with metal insert smaller than the stock dimensions. It really does no show u the outside dimensions of the finished pad.
Just make sure the metal insert is smaller than the dimension u have 2 grind 2 on pad and u won't expose the metal base in pad like this guy did. Really looks cheap.
:-)
You had the original pad. You could have used it for a template. Duh.
Not really. This stock wasn't brilliantly cut, and symmetry wasn't its strongest suit. Better to use the stock to find the shape.
Talk about making something simple complicated 🤦♂️