There is a special way to release the rear adjusters, which you normally have to do to prevent damaging something when pulling the rear drum off (if it's too tight on the pads due to a wear lip, etc, you are going to damage something). Take a close look at the design of the adjuster arm (designed to tighten rear brakes when backing up). You use one screwdriver to hold the arm away from the toothed adjuster wheel, and another to turn the wheel (loosen, it's different left to right i think). I once BROKE the adjuster by trying to turn/loosen the wheel (through the adjuster hole), without holding the adjuster off the teeth. That was on gen 1 Prius, 2002. I took pictures of all that so I can use it as a reference. It's also worth noting the direction of threads and what side of the vehicle you are photographing.
you are a life saver. i was looking for a bolt to take off my drum because one of my drums wont come out. I watched the video to try to get the size of the bolt. didn't know it would be on the hood of the car.
Prius uses the brakes pads/shoes very little compared to classical non-hybrid cars. I am an original owner of 2008 Prius and recently replaced the original front pads at 150K miles (still had about 1/3 of the original pad thickness remaining). I checked the rear drum brakes today, and found out that the original drum shoes are still in good shapes after 156K miles on them. The thickness of shoes is still about 3.0-3.5mm vs 4mm on the new shoes (the front shoes wear slightly more than the rear shoes inside the drum)! I just cleaned the dusk and put them back on. I think the shoes should last another 150K miles with my driving style :-)
There is a special tool to remove the shoes that compresses those springs. I always recommend doing one side at a time. Take both drums off, then start working on one side so you can reference the assembled side in case you forget how to reassemble. Drum brakes are a pain compared to disc. 4 wheel disc is a godsend. Remember, all brakes used to be drum. Even the front. Old cars didn’t have very good stopping power, and they were way heavier.
also why would you adjust the rear drum to have a slight rub? I thought you would adjust to the slight rub and then back it out a tiny bit. I guess it would wear in and not rub after a bit but seems odd to set it up to lightly rub
When you do disc brakes dont EVER leave the caliper hanging like that, its a big no no,get you a piece of wire and tie it up to any part of the car, if you dont have wire at least try to rest it on any surface, on one of my cars i usually leave it resting above the disc by the front strut,i can see on your video a perfect spot for it, fits in there just right, when you leave it hanging it puts strain on the hose, kinda like when people pull a electrical connector by the wires, dont so that, grasp the connector, not the wires etc
anyone wondering the front breaks were squeaking because of the wear indicators on them. they are added to alot of disk breaks so that you get a light squeak before it really squeaks when its all the way to the metal plate
Could you please describe how you eventually put on the adjuster and spring at time 9:43? You were struggling a bit and then magically had it put together. This is the step I need to see the most!
None of the how to videos I've seen on UA-cam addressed this part. On the technical sheet I saw they used what looked like a miniature tire iron to get enough leverage for this P.I.T.A spring
A rookie will use ANY tool except the correct one! 😢 They make a special tool for spring brakes... A couple of bucks.... Plus, you left the front calipers Dangling from the brake hose, which is great for a brand new hose but Horrible for an older hose ( causes cracks and bulges ).... It WILL FAIL in time 😢
As an FYI to anyone going after the rear drums on a Prius. Read up on how a Prius actually uses its brakes. I tackled the full monty from front to back on a 230k mile 2009. The rear drums nearly caused me insanity. After putting it all together, I knew I got air in the line, and you just can't bleed these brakes like a typical auto. I ended up having to take it to my mechanic and have him bleed, and calibrate brake fluid via computer software. Still saved money in long run, but I nearly lost my mind. Tackle your front disks all day, be very leery of going down drum brake rabbit hole.
Mike Thomas How did you manage getting air in the line just changing the brake shoes🤔. If done properly and the system remains closed, air in the lines should not exist. So you had to have cracked the line open at some point.
If you push one piston on one side of the wheel cylinder, without opposing force against the opposite piston, you can force it out. If that happens, you'll have to bleed that wheel cylinder.
4 notes: 1) Disconnect the 12V battery because the car will try to load the brakes and push the caliper piston out. 2) Shouldn't hang the caliper by the brake line. 3) You should open the cap on the master cylinder to give space for the brake fluid when it backs up when you push the pistons in. 4) Ha Ha, scavenge a bolt from elsewhere on the car to pop off the drum. Well played.
The wheel cylinder on mine blew when trying to put the shoes back on and brake fluid leak. I’m ordering another a new one but I’m still worried it might happen again. Any suggestions?
I've always removed the master cylinder cap and just used a c-clamp (like $1 at Dollar Tree) to slowly tighten the brake caliper piston back in to fit the new pads.
Don't forget to do a brake test on a downhill thus you can see if the rear brakes are working good or not. I didn't adjusted that thing and I get slipping sign on my dashboard because I didn't loose it a little. So I will do it as soon as possible.
You failed to show A very important step because You can possibly continue getting the squeaks if you didn't have the disks or the drums turned at the local auto repair shop usually cost about ten bucks each to have them turned but all in all very simple thank you for the video
I recommend at least disconnecting the 12V battery. Because Prius petrol engine is not always on, there is a computer operated brake pressure pump, and it is just a pure luck if you succeeded to replcace pads without problems! Mine leaded all kind of warning lights including ABS, master warning etc. and brakes were just crazy odd feeling overbiting, almost undriveable. Just needed ODB assisted commands to take it back again! (they use it in Toyota dealer services), so be aware!
You don’t have to disconnect the 12volt. If you want to, you can. Just be sure to leave the key fob far away from the car, preferably inside your house. If this procedure is followed you shouldn’t have any actuation of the brakes while doing a brake job as outlined in this video. Do whatever you think is best of course. I’ve done this before and no ABS light after the project was completed.
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Just Vlad Thank you so much! man! This helped a great deal all 4 changed in less than an hour
how about discs? front discs are totaly shot at my prius 2nd gen..
Dude, the hood bolt trick saved me SO MUCH TIME! Thank you. 10/10 if I could give more likes I would!
Which bolt is he referring to under the hood? Not sure which one tht was needed to remove
@@desipranksterz7909 The bolts that hold the hood on. It worked for me too.
Try M8x1.25
There is a special way to release the rear adjusters, which you normally have to do to prevent damaging something when pulling the rear drum off (if it's too tight on the pads due to a wear lip, etc, you are going to damage something). Take a close look at the design of the adjuster arm (designed to tighten rear brakes when backing up). You use one screwdriver to hold the arm away from the toothed adjuster wheel, and another to turn the wheel (loosen, it's different left to right i think). I once BROKE the adjuster by trying to turn/loosen the wheel (through the adjuster hole), without holding the adjuster off the teeth.
That was on gen 1 Prius, 2002.
I took pictures of all that so I can use it as a reference. It's also worth noting the direction of threads and what side of the vehicle you are photographing.
Terrific video. Plenty of light, thanks for doing it outside. Some videos are in a dark garage but yours makes it clear. Well done.
you are a life saver. i was looking for a bolt to take off my drum because one of my drums wont come out. I watched the video to try to get the size of the bolt. didn't know it would be on the hood of the car.
Prius uses the brakes pads/shoes very little compared to classical
non-hybrid cars. I am an original owner of 2008 Prius and recently
replaced the original front pads at 150K miles (still had about 1/3 of
the original pad thickness remaining). I checked the rear drum brakes
today, and found out that the original drum shoes are still in good shapes after 156K
miles on them. The thickness of shoes is still about 3.0-3.5mm vs 4mm on
the new shoes (the front shoes wear slightly more than the rear shoes
inside the drum)! I just cleaned the dusk and put them back on. I think
the shoes should last another 150K miles with my driving style :-)
My 2007 corolla uses this drum set up. I was going crazy to find a video that pertained to my application. Thanks for your upload!
Thanks for the video. It’s been a while since replacing drum brakes
There is a special tool to remove the shoes that compresses those springs. I always recommend doing one side at a time. Take both drums off, then start working on one side so you can reference the assembled side in case you forget how to reassemble. Drum brakes are a pain compared to disc. 4 wheel disc is a godsend. Remember, all brakes used to be drum. Even the front. Old cars didn’t have very good stopping power, and they were way heavier.
Thanks for this. Pads on my Prius don't need changing yet but they probably will in the next few years or so.
Awesome video! Thank you for making it. Peace
Hey,
It's been almost two years, do you have any reviews on these brakes? Any cons?
Thanks
also why would you adjust the rear drum to have a slight rub? I thought you would adjust to the slight rub and then back it out a tiny bit. I guess it would wear in and not rub after a bit but seems odd to set it up to lightly rub
I was wondering why you didn't compress the caliper before you removed it?
before u did front brakes did u disconnect battery??? & remove keyfob from your pocket
Why do you need to do this. I never disconnect the battery and have problems
When you do disc brakes dont EVER leave the caliper hanging like that, its a big no no,get you a piece of wire and tie it up to any part of the car, if you dont have wire at least try to rest it on any surface, on one of my cars i usually leave it resting above the disc by the front strut,i can see on your video a perfect spot for it, fits in there just right, when you leave it hanging it puts strain on the hose, kinda like when people pull a electrical connector by the wires, dont so that, grasp the connector, not the wires etc
110%
anyone wondering the front breaks were squeaking because of the wear indicators on them. they are added to alot of disk breaks so that you get a light squeak before it really squeaks when its all the way to the metal plate
My brakes on my Prius squeak a lot. Is it because of the brake pads or the disc?? I’m 18 don’t know much about car parts.
Could you please describe how you eventually put on the adjuster and spring at time 9:43? You were struggling a bit and then magically had it put together. This is the step I need to see the most!
None of the how to videos I've seen on UA-cam addressed this part. On the technical sheet I saw they used what looked like a miniature tire iron to get enough leverage for this P.I.T.A spring
A rookie will use ANY tool except the correct one! 😢
They make a special tool for spring brakes... A couple of bucks....
Plus, you left the front calipers Dangling from the brake hose, which is great for a brand new hose but Horrible for an older hose ( causes cracks and bulges )....
It WILL FAIL in time 😢
As an FYI to anyone going after the rear drums on a Prius. Read up on how a Prius actually uses its brakes. I tackled the full monty from front to back on a 230k mile 2009. The rear drums nearly caused me insanity. After putting it all together, I knew I got air in the line, and you just can't bleed these brakes like a typical auto. I ended up having to take it to my mechanic and have him bleed, and calibrate brake fluid via computer software. Still saved money in long run, but I nearly lost my mind. Tackle your front disks all day, be very leery of going down drum brake rabbit hole.
Mike Thomas How did you manage getting air in the line just changing the brake shoes🤔. If done properly and the system remains closed, air in the lines should not exist. So you had to have cracked the line open at some point.
@@nordicpride9708 or maybe he didn’t adjust the shoes properly afterwards, that would cause a spongy pedal feel too
calibrate brake fluid via computer software??? Sounds like mechanic talk for "I'm gonna make some bucks here!!!"
If you push one piston on one side of the wheel cylinder, without opposing force against the opposite piston, you can force it out. If that happens, you'll have to bleed that wheel cylinder.
Props for doing brakes one handed 👍
4 notes:
1) Disconnect the 12V battery because the car will try to load the brakes and push the caliper piston out.
2) Shouldn't hang the caliper by the brake line.
3) You should open the cap on the master cylinder to give space for the brake fluid when it backs up when you push the pistons in.
4) Ha Ha, scavenge a bolt from elsewhere on the car to pop off the drum. Well played.
The wheel cylinder on mine blew when trying to put the shoes back on and brake fluid leak. I’m ordering another a new one but I’m still worried it might happen again. Any suggestions?
"You just have to put it back, simple as that. Definitely not easy."
Sums up this entire video lol
I've always removed the master cylinder cap and just used a c-clamp (like $1 at Dollar Tree) to slowly tighten the brake caliper piston back in to fit the new pads.
Where u find the brakes for the rear
Don't forget to do a brake test on a downhill thus you can see if the rear brakes are working good or not. I didn't adjusted that thing and I get slipping sign on my dashboard because I didn't loose it a little. So I will do it as soon as possible.
Wowwwwww...
Uffff is very COMPLICATED
I see you prius dont have a break shields, did you removed it?
What size is the bolt that you used to remove the rear drums?
Not that it matters a year later, but you can use one of the bolts that hold the hood on.
I had the same question 🤣🤣🤣
For anyone who finds this 2 yrs later, like me, I believe they are 12mm.
Try M8 x 1.25.
what did u torque the caliper bolts too?????
what are those wheels? they look great😁
Little late, but these are 2005-2010 Scion TC wheels
..appreciate your help!
at 8:35min into video it jumps to high speed. not sure if done at camera or during edit before upload....
Bro use a jack stand next time. That jack is for a quick tire change,
Dont understand why you went so fast through the drums??? I can see fast forwarding through tightening and un-tightening...
Would be nice if the video wasn't in fast forward on the key parts of the video
How r we to learn when u sped up half of it
You failed to show A very important step because You can possibly continue getting the squeaks if you didn't have the disks or the drums turned at the local auto repair shop usually cost about ten bucks each to have them turned but all in all very simple thank you for the video
What dis that mean?
Wished uda showed everything
Damn sure wasting my time when you don't show everything thanks for the effort though.we got to do better with sharing the info DIYers...
Great video.
It's a piston, not a "cylinder" that needs to be pushed back in.
Dam you lucky you did t mest up the breake house.
I thought you owned an Impala...
Really bad approach to squeeze the front caliper! The bolts for extracting the rotors is an M8
Way to explain what the hell you're doing
Fast forwarding went to far in this one dont understand it really
Video to fast bro show how to switch everything
My 1990 Nissan Maxima had disc brakes. Come on Toyota...
Maxima was a high end car for many years. Most utes and small cars have drums im sure even a Nissan micra and Navara as well rear.
Don't forget gloves!
It was to fast forward
Fast video. Wow not working put. In regular...
Dude get a C clamp and push the front brakes cylinder in with C CLAMP
shut up
Unfortunately you went high speed making your video pretty much worthless....I need to see exactly where you placed the parts during assembly.
Bad explication
I recommend at least disconnecting the 12V battery. Because Prius petrol engine is not always on, there is a computer operated brake pressure pump, and it is just a pure luck if you succeeded to replcace pads without problems! Mine leaded all kind of warning lights including ABS, master warning etc. and brakes were just crazy odd feeling overbiting, almost undriveable. Just needed ODB assisted commands to take it back again! (they use it in Toyota dealer services), so be aware!
Nope. Got problems now. Read this too late
You don’t have to disconnect the 12volt. If you want to, you can. Just be sure to leave the key fob far away from the car, preferably inside your house. If this procedure is followed you shouldn’t have any actuation of the brakes while doing a brake job as outlined in this video. Do whatever you think is best of course. I’ve done this before and no ABS light after the project was completed.
The key fob must be a minimum of 15ft away from the car throughout this process
The firts time I don't disconnect the 12v. Batery... Big mistake.. 3 light on dashboard and erratic brake.. Solution ..Drive to the dealer
@@manuelrojas1234 just clear the lights or actual shop time?