Hope this channel makes a comeback! I just had my first bouldering class and I'm TERRIBLE. Only finished about half of the v0s we covered but I loved it and have found your channel very aspirational. I'm hoping to weave some of the techniques here to my routine tonight. Very fun channel.
hi I just found a channel and I binge watched all of it. I started climbing about one year ago and is about what your levels are when you started posting climbing videos. You inspired me a lot and hope to see you back sometime.
I feel like I'm encountering the same issue at V5 for my gym. It is quite discouraging seeing my taller friends just reach their hand out for the holds whereas I would have to jump and stabilise my body with my fingers on crimps. It feels like the setters make climb harder by making climbs reachier.
I totally emphasize how you are feeling about being stagnant. I was also stuck at the same plateau years ago. What really helped me was just climbing more and improving that footwork. Muscle/tendon growth, route reading and confidence on the wall will come naturally by just climbing more. You are doing great!
I've been stuck at the V3-V4 plateau twice now (currently re-stuck after a long break). What really helped me previously was an extra session either top-roping grades 2-3 grades higher than what I was at usually (forcing stronger moves and long projects. The focus was to see 'how far can i go now?'), as well as focusing on mobility sessions at home. Took 2-3 months to notice decent progression. What changed the most was my confidence to commit to certain moves, my finger and grip strength, and having a lot more stamina and energy to power through. The upper-body strength comes with time, but additional training can help so much (either what you plan yourself or from a PT). Also, training with friends stuck at the same plateau can help with confidence a lot. Need that hype when I get in my head at time haha
Something that has been helping me is to work on my hangboard to train my grip strength and run laps to work on my endurance, and obviously climbing more. It helped me to climb my first 6b (17m overhanging climb from the start) but I think one of my climbing plateaus was that I was afraid of falling above the bolt and it was until I fell climbing my project that helped me to get past my plateau Some plateaus are mental, others physical.
My suggestion is to go to a v6-10 and try to start it. I follow 3 p's practice, project, and play. Practice v1 - one rank below your project rank. Project find three or 4 problems you will be working on no single sends allowed. Play has no rank limits and sending isn't important just have fun do a bat hang and walk away. Try to send a v1 with no hands. Go to a v 10- 14 and see if you can start it and get the first move or the second. I sent a v5 before I sent my first v4. Try a Boulder outside your current level and see how far you get. Plateaus happens because of send expectations you pay alot of money to go to the gym have fun.
Hi! I recently started climbing and your videos helped me a lot to improve my movement. Thank you! :) By the way, I am just curious about the English expression 6:38 "channelled my inner popcorn", I am not an English speaker so I just doubt what it means and want to understand. Could you explain to me if you got a chance to see my comment?
Yeah i think i've been stuck at the V4 plateau for like a year now, i feel like i'm getting better but i'm not increasing in grades. I think my issue is that i'm not being deliberate about my training, i think V3/4 is where a lot of people get stuck unless they actively try to improve and plan their training for that goal. I mostly just go to the gym, try to climb everything i haven't climbed yet then i go home, just do what i feel like, no real planning. no real plans to change that tho, i like my current schedule/setup more than i want to get better i think
Yeah, I think that's been my issue as well - not having a set plan and jumping on a bunch of climbs before going home. I'm leaning more towards trying out a training plan for now, but we'll see what happens 🤷🏻♀️
@@amandajchan Yeah i've thought about setting that up as well, atleast for a short period of time to see if i still find it fun to follow a stricter schedule. If you do end up trying out a training plan please share a video about it :D i'd love to see how you find it and if you feel any progress from it
Just focusing and commenting on your technique alone, the BIGGEST thing that immediately stood out was that you actively avoided heel hooks like the plague. To compensate, I've noticed that you either span or deadpoint moves. This is fine if you have tons of pulling strength, but as you found out, you find yourself incredibly gassed both between moves and attempts. Both quality of climb and session suffer. My biggest advice would be to drop the ego, and spend some solid time working on your technique (primarily heel hooks) on easier climbs. The amount of leverage you get from heel hooks is insane, and I wouldn't be surprised if you immediately get out of your current plateau.
idk man i watched that video i saw 1 maybe 2 heel hook ops in the entire video and neither looked like they would of helped her too much 1 was way to far away and the other would of bunched her up too much
Hope this channel makes a comeback! I just had my first bouldering class and I'm TERRIBLE. Only finished about half of the v0s we covered but I loved it and have found your channel very aspirational. I'm hoping to weave some of the techniques here to my routine tonight. Very fun channel.
waiting gor your comeback 🔥🔥
hi I just found a channel and I binge watched all of it. I started climbing about one year ago and is about what your levels are when you started posting climbing videos. You inspired me a lot and hope to see you back sometime.
I feel like I'm encountering the same issue at V5 for my gym.
It is quite discouraging seeing my taller friends just reach their hand out for the holds whereas I would have to jump and stabilise my body with my fingers on crimps.
It feels like the setters make climb harder by making climbs reachier.
I totally emphasize how you are feeling about being stagnant. I was also stuck at the same plateau years ago. What really helped me was just climbing more and improving that footwork.
Muscle/tendon growth, route reading and confidence on the wall will come naturally by just climbing more. You are doing great!
Agree! I think climbing more is definitely a big part of the equation. Glad to hear I'm not alone on this!
I love when I feel pumped and I just go for the next hold thinking imma slip off but somehow I stay on.
I've been stuck at the V3-V4 plateau twice now (currently re-stuck after a long break). What really helped me previously was an extra session either top-roping grades 2-3 grades higher than what I was at usually (forcing stronger moves and long projects. The focus was to see 'how far can i go now?'), as well as focusing on mobility sessions at home. Took 2-3 months to notice decent progression.
What changed the most was my confidence to commit to certain moves, my finger and grip strength, and having a lot more stamina and energy to power through. The upper-body strength comes with time, but additional training can help so much (either what you plan yourself or from a PT). Also, training with friends stuck at the same plateau can help with confidence a lot. Need that hype when I get in my head at time haha
I love the sound of the top-roping session, definitely trying it out! Thank you for sharing, lots of useful tips here ☺️
Something that has been helping me is to work on my hangboard to train my grip strength and run laps to work on my endurance, and obviously climbing more. It helped me to climb my first 6b (17m overhanging climb from the start) but I think one of my climbing plateaus was that I was afraid of falling above the bolt and it was until I fell climbing my project that helped me to get past my plateau
Some plateaus are mental, others physical.
My suggestion is to go to a v6-10 and try to start it. I follow 3 p's practice, project, and play. Practice v1 - one rank below your project rank. Project find three or 4 problems you will be working on no single sends allowed. Play has no rank limits and sending isn't important just have fun do a bat hang and walk away. Try to send a v1 with no hands. Go to a v 10- 14 and see if you can start it and get the first move or the second. I sent a v5 before I sent my first v4. Try a Boulder outside your current level and see how far you get. Plateaus happens because of send expectations you pay alot of money to go to the gym have fun.
Hi! I recently started climbing and your videos helped me a lot to improve my movement. Thank you! :) By the way, I am just curious about the English expression 6:38 "channelled my inner popcorn", I am not an English speaker so I just doubt what it means and want to understand. Could you explain to me if you got a chance to see my comment?
Explosive extension.
Yeah i think i've been stuck at the V4 plateau for like a year now, i feel like i'm getting better but i'm not increasing in grades. I think my issue is that i'm not being deliberate about my training, i think V3/4 is where a lot of people get stuck unless they actively try to improve and plan their training for that goal. I mostly just go to the gym, try to climb everything i haven't climbed yet then i go home, just do what i feel like, no real planning. no real plans to change that tho, i like my current schedule/setup more than i want to get better i think
Yeah, I think that's been my issue as well - not having a set plan and jumping on a bunch of climbs before going home. I'm leaning more towards trying out a training plan for now, but we'll see what happens 🤷🏻♀️
@@amandajchan Yeah i've thought about setting that up as well, atleast for a short period of time to see if i still find it fun to follow a stricter schedule. If you do end up trying out a training plan please share a video about it :D i'd love to see how you find it and if you feel any progress from it
@@Bobbzorzen Will do!
Just focusing and commenting on your technique alone, the BIGGEST thing that immediately stood out was that you actively avoided heel hooks like the plague. To compensate, I've noticed that you either span or deadpoint moves. This is fine if you have tons of pulling strength, but as you found out, you find yourself incredibly gassed both between moves and attempts. Both quality of climb and session suffer. My biggest advice would be to drop the ego, and spend some solid time working on your technique (primarily heel hooks) on easier climbs. The amount of leverage you get from heel hooks is insane, and I wouldn't be surprised if you immediately get out of your current plateau.
idk man i watched that video i saw 1 maybe 2 heel hook ops in the entire video and neither looked like they would of helped her too much 1 was way to far away and the other would of bunched her up too much