@@gregvancom Love this. I need to document all the issues I have found in my new build that I fix with your solutions. Great point on the dissimilar materials and shrinkage. That alone changed the approach I am using to fix some of the problems I have found.
If anybody is concerned about driving too many nails or not sure where to drive them, honestly the best option is to just open up the Simpson Strong Tie catalog and buy em out Expensive yes, but the connections you can make with framing connectors instead of plain nails are *incredibly strong*
Truely the best thing to use and when used with the proper fasteners. Some rough framers use way too many nails, over driven in the materials making the connections as weak as no connections at all. I am currently fixing issues like this in a new build I just moved into. Some rough framers just don't care. I feel for people who don't know how bad some houses are framed and what to look for. I will be using some of the fixes presented in this video to fix glaring issues I have found. More trus floor joist videos please! 😀
I Used 2x4\2x6 swash blocks with 1x4 or 1x6 for TJIs as the fit flush with standard TJIs. For "But" framing, I used LVLs with the the joist hangers and 1x4 for spacers (web stiffeners) for the fastening the hangers for the TJI's. I wouldn't but join TJI to TJI. Only TJI to LVL or LSL, & I would always use joist hangers in the invent of severe wind or seismic movement. For but joints with Steel I-beams, you have to install LSL or LVL in between the steel flanges and fasten them top and bottom with structural screws for the joist hangers (That's what the TJI mfg engineer told me how to do it properly). I believe I used 3/8" by 8 inch structural screws, but recommend you check with the TJI mfg for your application. Note with LSL is that they swell a lot if they get wet which is common during framing construction (rain) unless you building in a desert. LVL so not swell if they get wet, so I recommend avoiding them.
Yes! I've been desperate for someone to cover trus joists. Cant wait for more videos.
Awesome! Thank you!
@@gregvancom Love this.
I need to document all the issues I have found in my new build that I fix with your solutions.
Great point on the dissimilar materials and shrinkage. That alone changed the approach I am using to fix some of the problems I have found.
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
If anybody is concerned about driving too many nails or not sure where to drive them, honestly the best option is to just open up the Simpson Strong Tie catalog and buy em out
Expensive yes, but the connections you can make with framing connectors instead of plain nails are *incredibly strong*
Truely the best thing to use and when used with the proper fasteners. Some rough framers use way too many nails, over driven in the materials making the connections as weak as no connections at all. I am currently fixing issues like this in a new build I just moved into. Some rough framers just don't care.
I feel for people who don't know how bad some houses are framed and what to look for. I will be using some of the fixes presented in this video to fix glaring issues I have found. More trus floor joist videos please! 😀
I Used 2x4\2x6 swash blocks with 1x4 or 1x6 for TJIs as the fit flush with standard TJIs. For "But" framing, I used LVLs with the the joist hangers and 1x4 for spacers (web stiffeners) for the fastening the hangers for the TJI's. I wouldn't but join TJI to TJI. Only TJI to LVL or LSL, & I would always use joist hangers in the invent of severe wind or seismic movement. For but joints with Steel I-beams, you have to install LSL or LVL in between the steel flanges and fasten them top and bottom with structural screws for the joist hangers (That's what the TJI mfg engineer told me how to do it properly). I believe I used 3/8" by 8 inch structural screws, but recommend you check with the TJI mfg for your application.
Note with LSL is that they swell a lot if they get wet which is common during framing construction (rain) unless you building in a desert. LVL so not swell if they get wet, so I recommend avoiding them.
Im building roof with IJoist, 18f span, i can’t find much info about blocking in Ijoist rafters, what would you recommend?
I would check with the manufacture, they have installation instructions on line.
why the gap for stiffeners?
To allow for expansion and contraction of materials.
Rim is 1-1/4” I thought
TJ Rim Board are 1 1/8. Some are 1 1/4 depending on the market they are sold in.
Are you using 2x4s for your structural frame diagrams? 🤣😜
He usually does just like the rest of America, no harm in using it
@@jackfrost5808 more talking about the exterior walls...
@@xephael3485 and again 2x4s are more than fine
@@jackfrost5808 I think for 2024 Building code now requires 2x6 exterior wall construction, or at least states are making that a requirement.
@@guytech7310 In my area that is the case for code but garages are allowed to use 2x4. Builders love this as it cuts costs.