thanks alot for the explaining the measurements how and why we take out the 3/4 from 16" i knew that we take it out but never knew how to do for the different pieces.
We used the same joist for that. You just put them in before you sheet. When you eventually build the wall. Make sure your wall studs land on the layout of your blocks. Hope this helps.
I have seen where the distance center to center should not be further than the depth of the I-joist. In watching videos most bloggers are using 12 deep I-joist at 16 inches on center. Will that degrade the squeaking of the floor sheathing above?
I'm planning to build a 20 x 40 foot garage with an apartment loft. The I-beam joists would be 20 feet long and I guess 12 inches high. I would like to avoid needing a center beam (at 10 feet--maybe steel) to support them. Is that possible? Would 16" on center work?
Just go with 14's then would be my advice. The extra cost is well worth the permanent investment. Your floors will be nice and sturdy. Also mechanical like HVAC would be a cake walk. Worth checking out the price difference at least.
Hi Dave, great video. I have two questions. 1) Does the lumber yard charge for the shop drawing layout assistance? 2) This question has to do with when you are laying out floor joists that will lap on a beam. I am told to layout the same way except on say the Northside put an X on the opposite side of the mark. Say Southside X goes to the left of the mark, Northside X goes to the right. Wouldn't this opposite side marking affect the 8' on center? I have reached out to a couple of framers but have not received an answer.
It WILL screw it up so at the shaking hands point you run a scab board out until the sheet ends on the 4 foot side of the sheet. Then you move over the next row of sheathing 1 1/2 to the layout on the opposite side of the shaking hands portion.
Hi, So quick question, just looking for general knowledge here, I understand that the manufacture will have details on how best to use their products....but, do you find that the rim boards you're using would be ok for the standard loads of a standard two story house? From my research, it seems like they should be ok(I've seen anywhere from 4500-8000 plf rated) but just wondering what you and others think in terms of your experience working on projects in the field...
The Rim board is really strong. Anywhere you know you will have extra point loads you will want to put squash blocks ( tight blocks between the bottom of your floor sheathing and top of your mud sill. Often installed under large window and door openings right below jack and king studs.) Hope this helps! Thanks for your comment.
How come some of your rim board is flush with the mud sill. Didn't you say you were going to keep it in a half inch so the wall sheathing sits flush with the mud sill?
Hey Eric, thanks for the question. Some spots were adjusted because when you're laying out a house with all the angles we have, a few spots with the mud sill weren't installed perfect so you just adjust the house even closer to perfection with the rim joist. I'd say 90% was exact. The main concern at the end of the day is we want the face of the concrete to be flush with the OSB sheathing because of Cultured stone. Even that has a lot of give to it. The main goal for any builder is try to get every stage of the building process as accurate as possible along the way.
@@davidunderwood4341 hey. Thanks for the reply. When you say a few spots with the mud sill weren't installed perfect are you referring to the foundation not being necessarily in the correct spot? One other question - when you look at prints, just say a basic rectangle house, let's say it's 40 by 50. Is that 50 foot wall include the width of sheathing on both sides so hypothetically (assuming your using half inch sheathing) your bottom plate would be 49 ft 11 inch or ? I know it's only like a inch but I've always wondered that. Hope that makes sense
@@RiskFight Exactly! Some spots were really bad. The concrete guys were great but even they said it was a challenging one. Some of the blame can be put on the Architect because a few measurements were missing on the print.
@@davidunderwood4341 that makes sense. So if a a straight exterior wall on your prints says 30', when you go to frame, does the 30' include the width of wall sheathing or is it just the plate and stud width?
@@RiskFight Great question! You can do it either way. Nowadays a lot of builders including me use energy saving trusses which have a vertical heal. Mine are as much as 14 to 20". That's what makes your question great! It becomes very important to make sure that the truss manufacturer knows whether you built to 30' or 30' 1" because you want the trusses to land exactly flush to frame so you can continue your wall sheathing up over the heal. You just gave me an idea for a video! I'll see if I can get it done in the next couple of days so you can actually see what I'm talking about. Thanks again!
thanks alot for the explaining the measurements how and why we take out the 3/4 from 16" i knew that we take it out but never knew how to do for the different pieces.
Glad to help! Thanks for your comment!
Just saw your videos me and my old man are making a house to we finished the foundation can't imagine when it's all said and done
Heck yeah!
Awesome video, I'm still not sure if I lay a board on top of the cinder block foundation to rest floor joist and outer wall on
Yes. You will want to do that! Thanks for watching!
@@davidunderwood4341 thank you very much !! Also if you can please tell me how to install a 54 inch in diameter circular window
Exact problem i have at my house, unfinished area. Course...... lol
Try not to look at it as a problem. You'll get to it! Lol!
That's a big ass house to build yourself
Inch by inch is a sinch!
Az same.16
How did you get the brick texture on your foundation.
The wall forms have the pattern within it.
Nice
Thank you!
Can you explain what you use and how you do it when you add blocking for a wall that runs parallel to the floor joists but isn't over one of them?
We used the same joist for that. You just put them in before you sheet. When you eventually build the wall. Make sure your wall studs land on the layout of your blocks. Hope this helps.
I have seen where the distance center to center should not be further than the depth of the I-joist. In watching videos most bloggers are using 12 deep I-joist at 16 inches on center. Will that degrade the squeaking of the floor sheathing above?
It has more to do with the span than the spacing of the joists. Span, 16 on center, then joist calculation.
If they are using 12" I joists, it must be a shorter span. Lots of glue will ensure a quite floor. Thanks for your comment!
I'm planning to build a 20 x 40 foot garage with an apartment loft. The I-beam joists would be 20 feet long and I guess 12 inches high. I would like to avoid needing a center beam (at 10 feet--maybe steel) to support them. Is that possible? Would 16" on center work?
Just go with 14's then would be my advice. The extra cost is well worth the permanent investment. Your floors will be nice and sturdy. Also mechanical like HVAC would be a cake walk. Worth checking out the price difference at least.
Hi Dave, great video. I have two questions.
1) Does the lumber yard charge for the shop drawing layout assistance?
2) This question has to do with when you are laying out floor joists that will lap on a beam. I am told to layout the same way except on say the Northside put an X on the opposite side of the mark. Say Southside X goes to the left of the mark, Northside X goes to the right. Wouldn't this opposite side marking affect the 8' on center? I have reached out to a couple of framers but have not received an answer.
Lumber yard doesn't charge.
It WILL screw it up so at the shaking hands point you run a scab board out until the sheet ends on the 4 foot side of the sheet. Then you move over the next row of sheathing 1 1/2 to the layout on the opposite side of the shaking hands portion.
Thanks for the questions!
Hi, So quick question, just looking for general knowledge here, I understand that the manufacture will have details on how best to use their products....but, do you find that the rim boards you're using would be ok for the standard loads of a standard two story house? From my research, it seems like they should be ok(I've seen anywhere from 4500-8000 plf rated) but just wondering what you and others think in terms of your experience working on projects in the field...
The Rim board is really strong. Anywhere you know you will have extra point loads you will want to put squash blocks ( tight blocks between the bottom of your floor sheathing and top of your mud sill. Often installed under large window and door openings right below jack and king studs.) Hope this helps! Thanks for your comment.
@@davidunderwood4341 yeah, I've heard about the squash blocks for point load. Sounds good.
How come some of your rim board is flush with the mud sill. Didn't you say you were going to keep it in a half inch so the wall sheathing sits flush with the mud sill?
Hey Eric, thanks for the question. Some spots were adjusted because when you're laying out a house with all the angles we have, a few spots with the mud sill weren't installed perfect so you just adjust the house even closer to perfection with the rim joist. I'd say 90% was exact. The main concern at the end of the day is we want the face of the concrete to be flush with the OSB sheathing because of Cultured stone. Even that has a lot of give to it. The main goal for any builder is try to get every stage of the building process as accurate as possible along the way.
@@davidunderwood4341 hey. Thanks for the reply. When you say a few spots with the mud sill weren't installed perfect are you referring to the foundation not being necessarily in the correct spot? One other question - when you look at prints, just say a basic rectangle house, let's say it's 40 by 50. Is that 50 foot wall include the width of sheathing on both sides so hypothetically (assuming your using half inch sheathing) your bottom plate would be 49 ft 11 inch or ? I know it's only like a inch but I've always wondered that. Hope that makes sense
@@RiskFight Exactly! Some spots were really bad. The concrete guys were great but even they said it was a challenging one. Some of the blame can be put on the Architect because a few measurements were missing on the print.
@@davidunderwood4341 that makes sense. So if a a straight exterior wall on your prints says 30', when you go to frame, does the 30' include the width of wall sheathing or is it just the plate and stud width?
@@RiskFight Great question! You can do it either way. Nowadays a lot of builders including me use energy saving trusses which have a vertical heal. Mine are as much as 14 to 20". That's what makes your question great! It becomes very important to make sure that the truss manufacturer knows whether you built to 30' or 30' 1" because you want the trusses to land exactly flush to frame so you can continue your wall sheathing up over the heal. You just gave me an idea for a video! I'll see if I can get it done in the next couple of days so you can actually see what I'm talking about. Thanks again!
That first one is 1/8 off lol
Out of all the things you took the effort to type. Congrats!
We'll make sure we fix it for you. That way you can find a different thing to comment about! LOL!
You could do better with the OC.
I don't know what you mean?