Thanks David, that’s very good advice. I agree mounting the fixture plate on the mill table is better. I only use the vice if I need to keep removing it, as the vice is already trammed in. Cheers Nobby
G'day Nobby, again mate I echo my previous comments....its been terrific following along vicariously with you during this build....thanks for going to the effort of filming it all - Cheers Jim
Hi Paul I’m steaming along with the build. My videos are about 6 behind, so I’ll probably finish it long before you see it running ( hopefully ) Thanks for looking. Cheers Nobby
Great outcome Nobby. Glad you are going to skim off the back of the crank casting. You won't regret doing it. Will be in touch with some suggestions on machining the flywheel and accurately lining uo the piston rod hole on the crosshead. Regards from Australia.
Thanks David. I have already machined the flywheel. This will be my next video. It wasn’t easy as the casting was very poorly made. I hope I explain this well enough in the video. I haven’t yet drilled and tapped the connection on the cross head, so advice on this will be very welcome. I still have two parts to make. The piston valve and valve coupling. These should be fairly easy turning jobs. Also drilling and tapping the cylinder for the end caps. Cheers Nobby
I’m trying very hard to do everything as accurately as possible, so all the parts will play nicely with one and other. Nice looking screws make all the difference I think. Cheers Nobby
Found I got greater accuracy with the slip gauges using the top slide to make the adjustments. I did try my micrometer carriage stop first. Ended with the parts less than a thousand. Well within tolerance. Thanks for looking. Cheers Nobby
@@nobbysworkshop Did you consider using a dial gauge against the cross slide/carriage to measure the travel? Align the parting tool to one slip gauge or flat plate at the end and then clock the travel towards the chuck. Easier to hold one piece hard against the end to register the parting tool.
Hi Gary. I did look at several options, and found the top slide gave a much finer adjustment than using the carriage against my micrometer or dial gauge stop. In the end I got a good and accurate result. Cheers Nobby
Maybe a simpler way to make those spacers would be to make them over length, measure how much each one is too long, then return to the lathe and face to length.
Hi David, that way was on my list of options. As the spacers had a very thin wall thickness I did my best to part them to length straight away. Managed to get four out of six correct to within 1/1000. I was worried that putting them back in the chuck may distort them. While I was parting them off I was gripping the solid part of the bar. Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby
Other interesting video, all looking good
Thanks for looking Robert. ATB Nobby
Coming along nicely Nobby!
I’m making good progress Stuart. Thanks for looking. Cheers Nobby
Coming along nicely Nobby.
I would clamp the fixture plate on the mill bed and do away with the vice. It will give more room and be more sturdy too.
Thanks David, that’s very good advice. I agree mounting the fixture plate on the mill table is better. I only use the vice if I need to keep removing it, as the vice is already trammed in. Cheers Nobby
G'day Nobby, again mate I echo my previous comments....its been terrific following along vicariously with you during this build....thanks for going to the effort of filming it all - Cheers Jim
I’m glad you are enjoying the build Jim. Cheers Nobby
Very nice work mr Nobby. It’s looking great so far.
Many thanks Rusty. Things are moving along nicely. Cheers Nobby
Hello Nobby,
More good progress... Well done...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul I’m steaming along with the build. My videos are about 6 behind, so I’ll probably finish it long before you see it running ( hopefully ) Thanks for looking. Cheers Nobby
Great outcome Nobby. Glad you are going to skim off the back of the crank casting. You won't regret doing it. Will be in touch with some suggestions on machining the flywheel and accurately lining uo the piston rod hole on the crosshead. Regards from Australia.
Thanks David. I have already machined the flywheel. This will be my next video. It wasn’t easy as the casting was very poorly made. I hope I explain this well enough in the video. I haven’t yet drilled and tapped the connection on the cross head, so advice on this will be very welcome. I still have two parts to make. The piston valve and valve coupling. These should be fairly easy turning jobs. Also drilling and tapping the cylinder for the end caps. Cheers Nobby
That’s really coming together Nobby 😀 nice precise work. Big fan of EKP too.
I’m trying very hard to do everything as accurately as possible, so all the parts will play nicely with one and other. Nice looking screws make all the difference I think. Cheers Nobby
Looking Great Nobby👍👍👍👍😉😉
see you next time
atb
Kev
Thanks as always Kev. I’m keeping on keeping on. Cheers Nobby
Its coming along nicely 👍
Thanks Mark. ATB Nobby
Usually the spacers are used to set the carriage stop to cut a part to length. Give that a go.
Found I got greater accuracy with the slip gauges using the top slide to make the adjustments. I did try my micrometer carriage stop first. Ended with the parts less than a thousand. Well within tolerance. Thanks for looking. Cheers Nobby
@@nobbysworkshop Did you consider using a dial gauge against the cross slide/carriage to measure the travel? Align the parting tool to one slip gauge or flat plate at the end and then clock the travel towards the chuck. Easier to hold one piece hard against the end to register the parting tool.
Hi Gary. I did look at several options, and found the top slide gave a much finer adjustment than using the carriage against my micrometer or dial gauge stop. In the end I got a good and accurate result. Cheers Nobby
Maybe a simpler way to make those spacers would be to make them over length, measure how much each one is too long, then return to the lathe and face to length.
Hi David, that way was on my list of options. As the spacers had a very thin wall thickness I did my best to part them to length straight away. Managed to get four out of six correct to within 1/1000. I was worried that putting them back in the chuck may distort them. While I was parting them off I was gripping the solid part of the bar. Cheers Nobby
Looking good nobby
Thank you Andy. Much appreciated. Cheers Nobby
good video nobby
Thanks for looking Michel. 😊