We Got The 78 Year Old Generator Running... But It Needs Work.
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
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After almost 78 years, this little two cylinder water cooled generator still has some life in it... but how much?
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I legit was not aware about this. Don't have kids, but I'll forward the link to others who do.
Skipped the sponsored ad as I always do. I pay for Premium, I don't want to see people hawking products, especially goods and services it's unlikely they even use.
One of my favorite channels, SmallEngineMechanic, did a 3-part series on one of these, including servicing the generator end. He is very knowledgeable on these older generators. His had some different problems than yours, but I'd still say it's a must-watch if you want to learn about servicing this model.
UA-cam doesn't like links, so the video title is "Lets Get This 1945 ONAN Generator Running Pt.1", if you search that it does come up (for me, anyway).
Great project, excited to see where it goes!
I vote restore it and fix it right since you guys can. It will be a fun father son project and you'll have a beast of a generator when it's done.
I concur! That thing is very cool and would be awesome to preserve.
We're gonna do our best with what's available!
Nah…you two got this!
@@JAMSIONLINE You still have the worn out cam to deal with though.
@@stvrob6320 it’s gonna be sent out for a regrind. Non issue lol
My dad was a volunteer firefighter in the 1970s. The Baraboo Fire Department had one of these Onan generators, which were called "light plants", to run the Klieg lights when responding to night-time fires and emergencies. They surplused it out, and my dad bought it for our farm in Baraboo. It was fire engine red, mounted on a wheeled dolly, and had a 10 gallon fuel tank. Dad installed it in the workshop barn, running the exhaust pipe outside, and had it tied via a big knife switch to the mains. During the Blizzard of 1978, power in our neck of the Wisconsin woods went out for a week, but Dad disconnected the mains from the grid, and the Onan light plant ran the farmhouse and barn no problems. These were designed to run continuously for extended periods, with the big radiators, heavy duty block, deep sump, and generator. With the exhaust being routed outside, it was very quiet! Ours didn't run as hot as yours appears to run, but I do remember the barn being warm from the heat shed by the radiator - nice to have in a blizzard! I miss Dad and his Onan, hopefully you two can restore yours back to standby condition, it will serve you well!
Blizzard temperature is a few degrees less than summer heat, so that may have helped😁
She 's a runner, can't stop now! I love how in the old days they designed STYLE into everything, the grill is a piece of art in itself, and made to last a lifetime! Loven it!
You two are so very blessed to be able to work together. Me and my dad built several engines together, restored 2 classic cars, my grandpa was a auto mechanic in the 50/60's in his own shop. They are all gone now, but I have those memories forever! Thank you for the videos. Bring the gen back to new!
We had a big 30 kw genset with a Wisconsin V4 that had autostart. You could turn on any light or appliance anywhere on the property and hear the throaty roar as the Wisconsin came to life. When you shut the last load off it would wait about 30 seconds before shutting down. As a kid I loved that feature! 🙂 Thanks for the video. I remember seeing units like that when we went shopping at the local "Monkey Wards" back in the '40s and '50s. Sears had similar ones.
Haha awesome! Thanks for the story and for watching!
After skimming the manual, it looks like there’s possibly an adjustment for how sensitive the auto start is. We may just have to tinker some more!
@@JAMSIONLINE given that electronic loads didn't exist in the 1940s, you might have to use a fairly low-impedance resistive or magnetic load load (like that incandescent light and drill shown in the video) as the basis of tweaking the autostart. It would be interesting to see if it can pick up a modern LED light bulb, but who knows? Looking forward to the next installment!
That is such a cool ass little generator. Montgomery wards. A name I haven't heard since the 80's. My grandparents loved wards....they sold all kinds of stuff! I had these two "Alarm" kits from there still in the original plastic packaging when I was like 15. I wish I kept them. You installed it and put an on/off switch from your ignition to a hidden spot and a push button. So you would flip the hidden switch to on, then push and hold the secret button, then turn your key to start.
Before cars had computers and were simple 12v circuits. Lol
I have a Ward's chainsaw, and a Westerfield 20 gauge shot gun.
I had a 70 GMC that I rigged my lighter up so that it was a switch that would interrupt power to the ignition coil. To start the truck, you had to pull the cigarette lighter. It was never stolen so my anti-theft system was obviously effective.
Totally trusting your work. Take the generator outside to test if and make sure the fire fighting equipment is close by. Good idea. I worked with a man who started at least 4 fires inside the workshop because he didn't think for 2 seconds about what he was going to do next.
My stance on this one it's "Fix it completely to the level that it can be used as it once was intended" OR just "pass it" to someone that needs parts OR it's willing to go the distance to make it like the day it left the factory's door.
I understand there may be issues trying to source some (maybe all ?) of the important parts that would need replacement.
Best of luck and keep "resuscitating" old machines that still have a fight in it and historical value.
I'll keep watching. ☺👍🏻
For 78 years old and probably abused/neglected most of its life, she ran real good. I hope im doing that well at 78.
Another vote to clean it up and take it as far as reasonably possible
I have the same generator mine is 3 phase with 4 cylinder contintal engine it had 7 hours on it when I took it out of a hospital it has over 700 on it now using it at our hunting camp .Great machine it will run 24 hours on 12 gallons of fuel at 1800 rpms
9:07 had me chucklin. "i think you think more than you think you think" good banter always from you two.
Now I want to see it bored, honed, decked, rods removed and polished, crankshaft counterweights “knife-edged” and rebalanced, new guides and valves, oil pump replaced and then maybe turbocharged 😂😂😂
Yeah I hear ‘ya. Put a full race and dual pipes in that sucker.
😂😂😂😂😂
This is the kinda crazy shit i’d do if I had Elon Musk level money. Retire someplace quiet and wrench on old iron until my fingers fall off in protest
Custom welded full titanium exhaust 😂
This gen set is from an era that things were made to last.
Loved it when you started getting excited about where your washer went -- and you were disassembling over an oven floor drain. That's the kind of crap I do.
Look into line to line skirt coatings to tighting up skirt clearnces and just rering it if the cylinders can be honed, I believe the autostart means it's wired to the building wiring and when the building looses power it will autostart to restore power on its own. Keep up the good work really enjoy watching you 2.
They probably have the stuff to knurl the pistons in house I would think to do the same thing without paying anymore from another shop to do this . Now if they could find new pistons or possibly have Wiseco make new pistons for this they could have the skirts coated to reduce scuffing like many modern pistons are today for just about every application. My Skidoo Mach 1 I had I had done a top end job on it & I used moly coated pistons in it & they worked great and actually made less noise than a factory piston did although it was a little hard to hear because I had dual tuned expansion chambered pipes on it to make more power than the factory pipe and stingers could that I had made by a well known guy that builds custom pipes stingers and engines for Skidoo ice oval race sleds .
Line to line works. Have seen it work well in race engines
Glad to see you guys doing this stuff, enjoy your time while you can because one day you'll be turning wrenches together and the next you'll be hoping to remember it. Lost my father unexpectedly beginning of last year, thankfully I was able to save the truck we'd work on whenever we got together. '84 k10 named it "Grumpy" on account of it only starts when it wants too. Always brings a smile to my heart seeing other families turning wrenches together.
Thatsa good name for an old uncooperative geezer of a truck. Do ya mind if I name my 99 Tahoe grumpy? It's got an intermittent start issue also.
Sorry bout your pops, I lost mine in 95. I always think of him.
Of course. Can always use more Grumpy's in this world.
It is a really interesting old machine! The fact that it works and can be returned to service makes it a worthwhile project. It never hurts to have auxiliary power on hand, so it's still relevant despite its age.
This thing is a piece of industrial art that deserves to be brought back!!!
I’m impressed on how easy it started. Usually something that sits like that has trouble starting, bales are little sticky and rusty. That thing fired right up.
The cleaning guys smile at 2:07-2:08 makes this project 1000% worth it.
First post from a regular viewer, Its nice to throw something different into the mix. Keeps viewers
wondering what's next on the bench. Love watching the father son dynamic play out, wish my dad was still around an aircraft mechanic was a bit of hard ass though. LoL
Same here. Dad was a Braniff A&P for 30 and them we opened an industrial small engine shop here in KC and did THAT from '81 to '09. Pretty damn inflexible and downright narrow-minded about certain things.
A "piston return spring" is one of the things an apprentice was (is?) sent to get from a parts shop.
Someone I know was sent to get a box of new sparks for the sparkplugs.
At the start of winter, he had to change the tiers for a customer. Swap the summer tiers for the winter tiers. When he finished, the other mechanics asked him if he had filled the tiers with the correct air. He had to fill them with "winter air". If he had not done that, he would have had to get the tiers off the car again and clean the inside of the tiers to get rid of the "summer air", because that would damage the tiers. They stopped him when he started to get the wheels off the car again.
No, it was not me!
The auto start should have live power on it, so it starts when line power fails.
Definitely this
No it's an off-grid device, auto start senses demand. As soon as you switch on a light or an appliance the Genny starts up. It's not a back up generator.
@@robturner3065 Yes if you stick a volt meter in one of the cabin/house's electrical outlets it will show either 12 or 24 volts depending on the unit. Switch a lamp on and she cranks up and goes.
"Let's get these valves adjusted," cut to a shot of sledge hammer. LOL. You guys are killing it lately with the editing.
Great project
😅Yeah I thought that exactly too! Hammer them right into adjustment! 😅👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧
✊🏻🇺🇸🦅
Set the gov for 1800 RPM first, and then you need to adjust the field excitation to get to your 110 0r 120 volts. The frequency of the power generated is a direct function of the RPM. That being a 4 pole alternator, it will make 60hz at exactly 1800.
The cheaper generators you see at the big box stores are "2 pole" units. They will generate 60hz at 3600 RPM.
Now if you want a slower speed, you use a 6 pole alternator and that will make 60hz at 1200 RPM That is when you start to get into units designed to run for long periods of time, like a completely off the grid worksite that runs 24/7/365
8 pole you run at 900 RPM
10 pole runs 720
And so on and so on
Spot on information here! Instead of using a tach I just put my multi meter on it set to frequency and set it to 61-62hz for these smaller units no load and at full load make sure its not falling below 58-59hz. Tad easier then setting up a tach and probably a bit more accurate. Another think I cringed to watch is them starting and stopping the generator with load applied but on that old unit it's likely fine.
I have an old 1940s, Montgomery Ward lathe, and it's crazy to think that a generator like that probably powered it's motor at one point.
I may be young, but I love these old Machines.
It is always fun, entertaining and educational to see both of your working with antique stuff. Most people had looked at it and tossed it for scrap money. Honestly I *wished* that you would take it apart and prepare it for a second life of some extend. Other than being a "somewhat working" museum exhibition piece. Understandably you have more things to do to pay the bills. But I eagerly wait for oncoming episodes on that machine. Thank for all the care and for showing !
That thing was just humming along! Too bad it smoked like a freight train. 😂
From what I have read about electric motor bearing grease (and seen firsthand) it's a bit more tacky / waxy so that it stays in the bearing better while the motor is running, instead of running out of the bearing and fouling up the inside of the motor windings. We have Mobil Polyrex EM at work.
your multimeter could have frequency measurment which will give you rpm reading 60Hz= 1800 RPM
I was hoping they would show the Hz. They should call @jcondon1 for help on the generator head.
At my shop we had two old plug-in style electric clocks and we'd plug them both in simultaneously - one into the genset one into the utility company and when the utilities-powered clock said 60 seconds both were unplugged and then we would compare the genset rate to the Public Utility's rate.
She's tired, but she still works.
As far as I'm concerned, your content is pure gold. I'll be watching whatever you decide to work on.
The fuel bowl came out of the washer lovely! It looks brand new.
Small engine mechanic knows all about these types of generators. Trouble is he is in NJ.
Yes sir. I mentioned it too. 🎩
We've not seen a new video from him for a while. I loved his restorations of *large* generators. I miss his videos.
Perhaps James Condon could help.
And is MIA for 8 months...
@@LaLaLand.Germany he hangs with @805roadking hes in a bunch of his new vids. probably busy with work.
I have to say it's amazing to see the engine brought back to life in it's current state while seeing the problems and such. I am really looking forward to seeing the engine refreshed / rebuilt and see how it runs.
I think those were mass-produced and badged under several different names. I have one badged as a Fairbanks Morse. A buddy of mine has a GE version, and another guy had one that is tagged as a Sears Something or other and I have seen others at antique shows with other names as well. All of them are identical in design and layout as yours with only minor changes in paint color and electrical output. (115 VAC/12 VDC, 115 VAC/32VDC, 32VDC.)
I think this one might be a Kohler. The Right Guy can look up it's Monkey Ward's Model number and tell who built it. It's GOTTA a Kohler or Onan. Fairbanks Morse built a lot of gensets but none this little.
It's an Onan. We had one on our farm that was Onan and that's how my dad found parts for it.
Rpm dictates frequency, and the voltage regulator is going to control the field windings to adjust voltage.... Usually. If you guys want to tune it.
But if the regulator is not working, output voltage will increase with higher RPM.
@@mumfordthepitbull4581 Right but the engine's Watt Governor is supposed to keep it running at exactly 1800 rpm under half-rated-load. That way it's a tic too fast at very low load and a tic too slow at max load - but it will be close enough.
Electric bearing grease is conductive, prevents eddy currents from frying the bearings by arcing to the case.
That was fun! I use a Kil-o-watt plug adapter to set the frequency on the generators I repair. I purchased it from Amazon. Nice work!
I vote for reworking it unless it's far too costly. It's just unusual enough to be interesting.
I mean I could see...
* dingle ball or just run honing stones through the bores to see if they clean up with minimal material removal
* remove and clean all the rings from the pistons and reinstall
* stick the valves in the fancy new CNC machine and clean up the stems
* install smaller diameter valve guides to match the valves
* face the valves
* install valve seats (nice hardened ones for modern gas)
* surface the mating surfaces
* fix the worn bits on the governor
* do something about the worn bearing for the fan
* fix or tweak any of the other little things you find
and I bet it runs 1000% better than it currently does. it'll probably still chuff a bit, but then given its age it probably chuffed when new.
Sloppy as that may be internally I would bet it would run a cottage or hunt camp for another 25 years with no service at all. That is a true auto start set up not a standby power. These were for hunt camps and the like with no grid connection at all.
I would spend a little money and fix it. Who knows you might need it one day...
I agree with your plan as stated, with one possible addition. If possible, pull the pistons and clean them.
Greetings from Humboldt County California.
Trip down memory lane when you brought out the drill. I still have some tools from the 1930’s my grandpa used, working as a millwright.
That is an awesome old generator. Rebuild and restore!!!
That little engine sounded good! I can't wait to hear it after y'all fix the blow-by and valve issues. Thanks for sharing.
I love it! It's like tinkering vicariously!😊
Great video guys. I love watching you two work together. Wish there were more fathers and sons like you two. Thanks.
Napa has non detergent, guyz!! Easy to find, even Wally World has it. Fun project. Interestingly enough, you were actually able to find a fuel pump kit.
Absolutely restore that ol' girl. Keeping a piece of history alive. I remember Montgomery Ward very well from when I was a child. Would love to see it brought back to life.
Way more queit than similar ones that size. I love that it's water cooled. It's such a cool piece of history!
On the high voltage issue, i think you would set the engine speed based on the frequency of the electricity (60 hz) rather than voltage, and the voltage should end up in the right spot... and the variability is probably just wear in the governor that you can tighten up.
I believe you absolutely can rebuild it, assuming you want to. That is a very solid old machine. No modern electronics. Gold.
Immensely interesting. Already looking forward to the next episode. You two may now be the leading experts in 80 year old Onan engines.
I’m a generator technician And This was a very fun video! Even after spending a day of already working on generators lol
Yea I was as well though I would call myself Elctro Mechanical as I worked on engines, the Alternator end, transfer switches, switch gear. What I am missing is why the odd start system but......
It's way more interesting to me to watch y'all figure out how to fix stuff like this, the MiniMo, the Jeep, etc. than building yet another V8 screamer. Keep up the great work. Wish you were close enough for my project.
Always wanted to see a small engine repair. Thanks for the video
That will be an awesome build project 🤓
So cool that it actually runs and operates after all those years
Beautyful machine.....I cant wait for the rebuild and it's future use!!!!!!
I know most folks think Chevy, Ford, John deer or international. But for me, these small engines helped build this country too. And I love seeing them restored to running condition. Sure, an 800 hp v8 is cool. But what about the simplicity of an old maytag engine?
Thanks for another great video.
About the grease, there are different thicknesses of grease. Some applications require thicker or less viscous grease. (NLGI number) usually it can be found in the documentation of the manufacturer. NLGI 2 is very often used for bearings for example.
About the greases not “mixing” has to do with the soap used to thicken it. Some are Calcium based, others are Lithium based. There are a few others too. One can use different brands mixed together, your machine doesn’t give a damn. But lithium and calcium based greases should not be mixed as they won’t mix very well.
Lithium has higher temperature resistance, making it a very popular choice. Calcium based greases don’t cope very well above 70°C.
I’m an Electromechanic on a large dredging ship, I work for a famous Belgian dredging/offshore company. We use “Molly” in most applications. Including elektromotors. Molykote BR2+ it has MoS in it, helps to lubricate even when it dries out.
Expensive stuff but its really really good.
I would also recommend against spraying brake cleaner over commutators and wires. As it breaks down plastic and hurts some rubbers. Try to keep the stuff away from important plastic and rubber things such as electrical isolation.
CRC makes Elektroclean spray, I cannot recommend that stuff enough. It also dissolves dirt and grease, to a certain extent. Not as good as brake cleaner, but it will not damage rubber and plastic, it vaporizes quickly and leaves no residue. Safe to use on electrical parts and even PCB’s.
I've read a comment here that said that bearing grease for electric applications is conductive, as it will prevent arcing between the balls and the shell, prolonging the life of the bearing. Is this true?
36:04 "I don't know why everything on this has to be so heavy". Ha Ha! It's like that because it was designed by someone who planned to buy one for his cabin, and he wanted it to outlast him and basically everyone he knew, and maybe it has. Whenever I'm faced with choosing between two similar featured, similar priced consumer items, I pick both of them up and ALWAYS buy the heavier one.
I didn't get the specs on the generator output, but in general terms: It has segmented commutators (slip rings) so it is a DC generator. Alternators didn't come into common use until about 20 years later and would have had a continuous slip ring. If it puts out AC, it uses circuitry to generate an AC voltage. The brushes still had a lot of material in them so you can reuse them. You can machine the commutator if too rough, just chuck it in the lathe then slightly undercut the resin between the contacts when done. Check the field coils in the stator for continuity. If the resistance is infinite, you will need to re-wrap the coils or find the break in the wire to fix it.
You can clean the circuit board with window cleaner and a soft bristled brush (like a well used solvent brush) or an old toothbrush. Stay well away from any capacitors and/or short them to make sure there isn't any electricity stored in them. If it uses electrolytic capacitors, you may have to replace them because they have a finite lifespan.
It's not a DC generator, it's an AC generator and the rotor has a DC component for starting and charging the battery.
@@16vSciroccoboi To add to this, I have a WW2 era military surplus 5KW, 120V AC 60HZ generator, which clearly operates like this one. It has a small DC generator (the segmented commutator) which provides battery charging power, but is mainly used to provide DC field excitation power to the rotating field for the AC alternator (via the two slip rings). AC power comes from the stationary windings on the outside of the rotor (the stator). This is still the standard way all portable AC generators work, except these days the DC for excitation is provided by a solid state rectifier. The AC and DC generators are both in the one housing. AC voltage is controlled by varying the amount of DC excitation current. Likely this regulator is not currently working, but all of the basics are functional, otherwise there would be no output power.
The DC side is the exciter for the AC generator.
@@16vSciroccoboi Thank you for saving me having to type that out ! On a related note I loved me some old Kohler and Onan welding machines and gensets that cranked the engine by dumping mucho amps at 24 volts into the right windings.
@@mumfordthepitbull4581 Yep ^ that's right!
We had a drill like that when I worked for the City of Santa Ana. It could hurt you BAD ! I think it runs pretty good considering the age and condition. I am sure you will make it MUCH better ! Thanks for sharing !
Watching you both. I miss my Dad. Been gone for 24 years. Cherish what you have together.
It does my OCD the world of good to see your well organised, clean workshop, and so well equipped, congrats
Love when you check out and rebuild the older stuff there is more diversity before machining, materials and cad made engines as good as they are now for the most part.
Please do a full rebuild, I’m so excited to see more of this old lady!
Hi from Sydney Australia. Make American great again.
I think you should go all the way fix everything that you can.
And even things that you can't
That was a natives American torture technique. When I started doing engine repairs, fuel pump repair kits were extremely common, just like carburetor kits . Brake and clutch repair kits had new lining materials and rivets . Also available was factory rebuilt components. Intended for the DIY people. I did all that work myself because I had the skills, and it reduced the numbers of repeated failures. I hate repeat repairs.
I can’t wait to see it totally restored and I like the color it is
I saw the same radiator design on a hotel in south beach Miami by The Clevelander back in the 80s
Very art deco, Very cool.
To me it looks "Styled By Brook Stevens" who also did John Deere, Studebaker and Lawnboy among many others.
How cool is that ! That little generator fired up easier than my fancy modern genset does. I’d love to have one.
Small brushes towards the rear are your 12v side, middle brushes are your 120v side, and 3rd inner most brushes are 220v ..
Anudda outstanding Father & Son video!!! You guys are something special!!
It ran just fine and started INSTANTLY so I say it earned a complete overhaul. Bottom and top end.
Best father-son project.
I sincerely hope you are able to get this generator running better than new again! Maybe a nice paint job and some TLC here and there and I think this beautiful little machine can last another 80 years powering someone's home in emergencies!
i can tell you had that image of the cat in your head when he said purrs like a kitten lmao
My exact thought as well! 😂😂
Watt a great piece of history. I would love to have it at my mom's happy mountain cabin.
That is the coolest old generator. They don't make them like that anymore. They had to go in the back room LMAO! I remember when we had to use that stuff.
Love watching your videos. This one especially. You guys are great together to watch.
This little gem of an engine could not be in safer hands so glad you got hold of it or it would be scrap by now big cheers for wanting to do it up some what as i think it will be around for a life time to come Cheers all
Thanks for another great Jim and Nickolas.
I found this video most interesting and learned a lot about that little engine.
My vote is to press ahead and clean it up and value job and adjust a few things, definitely worth saving and having for a backup machine!!!!!! Nice little generator i think.
I expected more wear and tear than it actually had. Yes it had some but not excessive the way I look at it. You can afford a few dollars of investment into it.
Kind of interesting how that little motor is put together and runs. Neat little machine.
Will be anxious to put it in and see how it performs. I bet it will work just fine and be a great little setup to have.
Thanks to both of you for the voice over as you took it apart. Has been interesting. Until next time, you both take care.
The retired Air Force veteran.
😊😊👍👋✅🇺🇸🇺🇸
There are a number of factors that go into the selection of electric motor grease, including whether the motor is mounted horizontally or vertically.
The main two factors are viscosity and consistency. Another important factor is oxidation resistance; especially important when oil is in close proximity to copper. Particularly when open bearings are used, instead of sealed or partially sealed bearings.
Strangely enough, greases don't mix - oh, and grease is basically oil imbued with thickeners - in the same way that most metals don't play well together in a dissimilar metal corrosion kind of way.
Finally, standard greases also contain additives that not only contribute to the issue of dissimilar grease compatibility, but can cause premature failure of the bearings since it doesn't perform as well as bearing grease for electric motors.
That's oversimplifying things; it gets much more complex when it comes to the science of grease; to the point that only an engineer could love it. Google dynamic (absolute) viscosity verses kinematic viscosity to see what I mean.
Hopefully you can find some valves and get the Cam re ground. Rings might be an issue also. I think you guys can make this little Engine run great!
Love to see it restored
I would love to see you all restore this. Great project.
US power is 120V +/- 10% so 108-132 is considered acceptable parameters.
Can't speak for the 1940s when this was designed, but today, not quite. ANSI C84.1 (summarized in RUS bulletin 1724D-114, Table 2, which is freely available) never permits a 120 V nominal service to exceed 126-127 VAC either at the service tap or the point of utilization. Running 120 VAC equipment at 130V-plus tends to be pretty hard on it unless it has an inverter drive, since many switching supplies are designed for universal voltage input.
Think about what these generators ran back then. Hand tool like the drill he had, old heavy electric heaters, refrigerators, old tube radios and if they had enough money maybe an old tube TV. Those “electrical” devices had a big tolerance for various electrical voltages. Unlike today’s “electronic” everything.
I just discovered your channel a week ago😊 you guys are great, but also makes a bit sad, I worked second shift at a machine shop while going to college and loved it, I love working with my hands and figured I might as well become a machinist, my supervisor and the owner were impressed with me, unfortunately the first shift setup machinist had nothing but contempt for me, the shifts overlapped for two hours, Mr setup treated me like garbage for those two hours every day, I'm wanting to learn and eager to do so, this wasn't hazing it was downright hate, it was so bad I had to leave and it drove me away from wanting to be a machinist, so anyway I'm a big fan of your channel and wish I lived closer I need my 351 block gone through 🙂
That's pretty weak...
I think you should use 15w40 diesel oil in it (at least if you don't clean it out well before you recondition/rebuild it)...oils now a days a MUCH better than oils from WWII..I would say 10w30 would be the BEST oil to run in that rig...
Such a GREAT old engine...I bet it will run like a boss once you are done with it!, could you sleeve it and polish the pistons to clean up the burrs?
Does it have hardened seats?
Great little project!
Keep em coming!!!!
Wow ! What a find , I always wanted a motor from a Sears gas operated washing machine the hit and miss engine, they came in one and two cylinder type!
Those were I believe made by Maytag. IIRC Hand Tool Rescue rebuilt one of those a couple of years ago.
Rotary mowers came into being when a little company took Ford 6-volt starter motors and a battery and spun a disc with sickle-mower blades riveted around the outside.
The "mower chassis" looked nothing like what we use now - all iron spoked wheels and frame - a baby self-propelled Buzz Saw is what it was. Then long ago somebody took a two cylinder Maytag and made a "twisted" 90 degree carb adapter so it could run Vertical Shaft. Now I have it!
Love the videos and the knowledge from “the cleaning guy”. Subscribed a while back during the rebuild of the tractor motor. Wishing you guys nothing but success.
love to see it back together and running love old motors
I called home Depot asked if they see replacement brushes.
Went in and the worker said he thought I mentioned the cleaning type brushes .
Lol.
Brushes are cheap I would go with new ones .
Make sure you can measure hurtz.
You want 60 hrts.
Also good to be able to measure engine rpm .
A fluke works great for measuring voltage.
What you guys are seeing is its a droop governor. You set high and then on full load its both frequency and voltage that drops. You have to choose what is normal for your uisel. A lot like the old Cruise control. Hit a hill and a good 5 mph off if steep or long enough (or both). Now they maintain to less than 1 mph. In this case a bit higher voltage and freq is not going to hurt but you would want it closer to 130 if load is low enough (ie, slow down). Vehicle plug in or electric heaters make good loads if you want to see what maximum is. Check the rated wattage on gen and a vehicle is 750 watts, heaters will list their wattage and often multi selective. Amp draw is under 20 amps as that is a normal house circuit breaker (screw in fuse for that Gen!).
I would suggest surfacing the contact area where the cam follower meets the valve stem so previous wear areas do not pull the valve stem against the guide. It looked to me like the valve and guide were worn more at the bottom(spring end) than the top. I used to work at a Deere dealership and recall their engines used wear caps on the valves. I wonder if wear caps on these valves would be helpful.
I really enjoy your videos and encourage you to keep up the good work!