Nice job on flush fitting the backsplash, one simple cut with the track saw that you wouldn't have been able to achieve with a jigsaw. Tips for the resin pour, especially the tops: - use a mask! Resin fumes are not exactly healthy - tare the scale after each ingredient, much easier than adding weights - small dents where the wood fibres have not been broken can be smoothed out by ironing the area through a damp cloth and sanding smooth. Where the fibres have been broken, you'll need to apply wood filler or wood glue mixed with sawdust. - apply wood filler or wood glue mixed with sawdust to the edges of the plywood, then sand smooth. Make up a small amount of thinner resin, (no pigments required, this will just be a base coat) and paint the edges with it. Once it cures, sand it smooth again. This will prevent your nice layer of resin seeping into the open edge and give nicer finish - like others said, go over the poured resin with a heat gun or hair dryer to get rid of bubbles (about 30-40 cm away from the surface) I wouldn't put the sockets on the backsplash, but on the side of the electrics cupboard over the worktop, and on the side of the last cupboard below the worktop.
Hi James, another great video. Its good too see that I am not the only one who makes a mess when mixing things 😊. Zero your weighing scales between each addition of gunk, saves on the maths and brain cells🙃
When putting your plug sockets in make sure you can get your plugs in the sockets because most kitchen appliances have molded plugs on hope you understand what I mean . Starting to look really good now
7 місяців тому+1
I second that. I had a contractor who fitted sockets above a worktop upstand in some apartments and they were so low, you couldn’t plug anything in. Bloody nightmare.
Use a hair drier or a hot air gun (carefully) to warm the resin as soon as you apply it. This will take out any air and remove any brush marks/nibs in the finish.
James, James, James! You continuously amaze me. Your alacrity to use and do all kinds of things you've never done before is so impressive. And the boat is looking so good.
The slots in the screw inserts go into the wood first, you had the right idea with the bolt but it goes on the other end. The slotted end is slightly tapered to cut the thread as it’s screwed down. I spent ages trying to fit some into an aluminium mast until I found the instructions on their use.
Hi James i didn't realise as to what you intended doing there is a company that blogs on UA-cam called Leggari Products that does resin worktops and floors they do some fabulous worktops and floors and sell the products
Surely I’m not the only one who noticed you were wearing a much smarter T shirt to carry out messy resin work in 🤣 I don’t know much about resin as I tried it once on a very small project at my craft group and hated having to work out the air bubbles but this video has left me wondering if the underside will crack once it’s put under the pressure of the bolts? I hope it doesn’t
Hi mate - just be wary putting the plugs onto the upstand, the plug probs wont go in with the flex hanging out it, might be worth looking at pop up sockets? You can get the round ones you could just drop a core through the top or the square flip ones, we put them in our stone tops all the time I dont know anything about worktop resin pours put if you were to use your shop vac you have there and another jug with a hole in it and the hoover in it would it pull the air bubbles out of it by drawing a vacuum? Dunno
Good idea with the vacuum (it does pull out the air bubbles) but the shop vac is not strong enough for that. For such thin layer going over the surface with a heat gun or hair dryer will do the trick though.
I’m not able to visit the raffle link. I just wanted to have a look, however It goes to a page that gives me some sort of an error warning. Just wanted to let you know.
I wondered , after watching you for several minutes , if you have actually painted the correct side of the worktop? I ask that because I got the impression the screwed in sleeves for fixing the worktop to the units , wouldnt show on the top once its all fixed in place . It appears that this should be the underside of it .
Wafting a small gas blowtorch gently over the epoxy a few centimetres away from the surface after it’s poured will help bring the air bubbles out and get rid of them
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt if you get bubbles a little waft over with the torch should help, can’t hurt to have it on standby! Loving the galley build it looks great 👍🏻
AQ bit late now but if you go over it with a blowtorch you'll get rid of the air bubbles and point two, how did you get resin on the handle of your brush, lol
@@YaaLFH I make a large part of my living doing resin work and you are correct a heat gun will work but you need a power supply, you run the risk of dipping the cable in your work and you will blow the resin around which is not good if your making a design. A blowtorch is very quick very portable and very effective
James to remove these dents in the wood but not gouges use a damp cloth with a house hold iron to raise the dents hope it helps (iron the damp cloth over the dent).
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt This will work but only on dents where the wood fibres are not broken. If the fibres are broken, you'll need to use wood filler or wood glue mixed with sawdust.
James, please beware of how you fit those sockets to the splash back, modern appliances have melded plugs with extended rubber to prevent damage to the cable. You will need to allow space for this…. Alternatively, get sockets where the angle of the plug is 45 degrees rather than 90.
lovely job but be careful of those plug sockets on the backsplash, remember when you plug something in you need space for the wire from the plug to bend. i made this mistake putting the plug sockets too low in my kitchen
@@berniesinclair1351 I can’t believe so many have picked up on this issue which I totally didn’t think of. Thanks so much - I’ll be sure to make sure I pay the plug sockets more attention
As you were describing the need for the boat to be level I was thinking, Murphy will have another boat go by, making yours sway at the worst possible moment. ;-)
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Rocking won't matter, James, as the side to side will cancel each other out. It's a permanent list you have to worry about.
@@sarkybugger5009 well she’s in the outside of sloe so nearly in the middle of the cut - she’s on the most stable pound round here so I’m hoping she won’t list
@@dorothywilson3717 I won’t put them in upside down - worst case use an adapter but it may be a rethink Any believe everyone’s picked up on this which I didn’t - but if you’ve made the mistake before then I guess that will do it
Sorry to be pedantic James, but asa former maths teacher I can tell you that the area is 1.44 square metres, not metres squared. 1.44 m squared = 1.44x1.44 = 2.90 sq m😂. I know it’s abbreviated as m to the power of 2, but it’s pronounced square metres!
Nice job on flush fitting the backsplash, one simple cut with the track saw that you wouldn't have been able to achieve with a jigsaw.
Tips for the resin pour, especially the tops:
- use a mask! Resin fumes are not exactly healthy
- tare the scale after each ingredient, much easier than adding weights
- small dents where the wood fibres have not been broken can be smoothed out by ironing the area through a damp cloth and sanding smooth. Where the fibres have been broken, you'll need to apply wood filler or wood glue mixed with sawdust.
- apply wood filler or wood glue mixed with sawdust to the edges of the plywood, then sand smooth. Make up a small amount of thinner resin, (no pigments required, this will just be a base coat) and paint the edges with it. Once it cures, sand it smooth again. This will prevent your nice layer of resin seeping into the open edge and give nicer finish
- like others said, go over the poured resin with a heat gun or hair dryer to get rid of bubbles (about 30-40 cm away from the surface)
I wouldn't put the sockets on the backsplash, but on the side of the electrics cupboard over the worktop, and on the side of the last cupboard below the worktop.
Thanks - means a lot from someone who clearly knows a great. Good tips all round
Thanks for probably the longest comment over ever had
Legend
Hi James, another great video. Its good too see that I am not the only one who makes a mess when mixing things 😊. Zero your weighing scales between each addition of gunk, saves on the maths and brain cells🙃
When putting your plug sockets in make sure you can get your plugs in the sockets because most kitchen appliances have molded plugs on hope you understand what I mean . Starting to look really good now
I second that. I had a contractor who fitted sockets above a worktop upstand in some apartments and they were so low, you couldn’t plug anything in.
Bloody nightmare.
Use a hair drier or a hot air gun (carefully) to warm the resin as soon as you apply it. This will take out any air and remove any brush marks/nibs in the finish.
James, James, James! You continuously amaze me. Your alacrity to use and do all kinds of things you've never done before is so impressive. And the boat is looking so good.
@@Acapulc941 thanks for teaching me a new word - and thanks for the comment
The slots in the screw inserts go into the wood first, you had the right idea with the bolt but it goes on the other end. The slotted end is slightly tapered to cut the thread as it’s screwed down. I spent ages trying to fit some into an aluminium mast until I found the instructions on their use.
That epoxy finish is looking good already. Look forward to seeing the final result. Good luck with it James 😊
LOVE the plug sockets James . Much better than white plastic , gives the whole boat a sense of modern styling .
Thats a clever way of screwing in those sleeves , I immediately thought of using a larger flathead screwdriver , but your idea makes much more sense .
Ooohhh my fingers are crossed it goes well James ! X not sure I’d dare do that !! X
Wow, those poured epoxy resin tops look fantastic, don't they. Love the blues and the greens.
I really enjoyed that video James. No corners cut, very informative.
Reminds me of the glass fibre episode on Sloe Patrol. 👍🏻
You could mix the dust from sanding with some wood glue mix it up and push into the dents in the wood and sand back.
use a blow torch to get rid of the air bubbles as you pour it
Well done James looking good already tc now the oldies 👍🤗
You can use a heat gun or drier to remove air bubbles
Yay another 30+ min video what a treat 😊
Loved it when you almost accidentally poked your eye with the safety specs as you told us about safety with epoxy ....nearly James .
Don't put plug sockets on back splash james it's too low mate, plug cables will jam on work top.
Or put them in upside down that’d work 😂
As has been said, a quick wizz over with a heat gun will get rid of those troublesome bubbles
wow that looks delicate.. good job so far :)
I agree with you on the backsplash design . much sleeker finish .
Looking good looking good! 😃
Tare the scales each time 😂
...so much easier!
💜💙💚
Some videos I have watched show a hair dryer to bring up and pop any air bubbles in the resin.
James use a steam iron on your timber. The hot steam will bring out the dents on your timber.
You may need to set the sockets a little higher so that the cable from the plug doesn’t prevent it from pushing in. Cheers Les on Glendyne
@@lesbrewer8431 yeah I discovered that earlier
Cheers
And isn't there a rule about how near to the sink they can be
Glossy - it is, Black - it is, no denying it ! Certainly hope it comes out right, so far so good though!
James if your electric sockets are too low you’ll find plugs won’t fit in
Good Luck
Hi James i didn't realise as to what you intended doing there is a company that blogs on UA-cam called Leggari Products that does resin worktops and floors they do some fabulous worktops and floors and sell the products
Use a heat gun for the good side to get rid if the bubbles
Surely I’m not the only one who noticed you were wearing a much smarter T shirt to carry out messy resin work in 🤣 I don’t know much about resin as I tried it once on a very small project at my craft group and hated having to work out the air bubbles but this video has left me wondering if the underside will crack once it’s put under the pressure of the bolts? I hope it doesn’t
@@adds91 I’m gutted I was wearing that as it was one of my few t-shirts without paint or glue on it !!!
You were brave taking on doing resin. I had to laugh each time you said shit or some other four letter word. Good luck!!!
Hi mate - just be wary putting the plugs onto the upstand, the plug probs wont go in with the flex hanging out it, might be worth looking at pop up sockets? You can get the round ones you could just drop a core through the top or the square flip ones, we put them in our stone tops all the time
I dont know anything about worktop resin pours put if you were to use your shop vac you have there and another jug with a hole in it and the hoover in it would it pull the air bubbles out of it by drawing a vacuum? Dunno
Good idea with the vacuum (it does pull out the air bubbles) but the shop vac is not strong enough for that. For such thin layer going over the surface with a heat gun or hair dryer will do the trick though.
yes lop that end off.
I’m not able to visit the raffle link. I just wanted to have a look, however It goes to a page that gives me some sort of an error warning.
Just wanted to let you know.
Thanks for letting me know
Try this one
raffall.com/361052/enter-raffle-to-win-sloe-patrol-weekend-hosted-by-james-posner
Take bubbles out by just brushing it over with a blow torch
I wondered , after watching you for several minutes , if you have actually painted the correct side of the worktop? I ask that because I got the impression the screwed in sleeves for fixing the worktop to the units , wouldnt show on the top once its all fixed in place . It appears that this should be the underside of it .
Did you miss the several times he said he's starting with the underside?
@@YaaLFH yes possibly i did .lol I just didnt imagine he would be using resin on the underside .
Why do you always use tiny paintbrushes a larger one at least 3 times that size would get the job done and a lot smoother
go over with a blow touch when its still wet this will pop the bubbles
Heat gun not blowtorch.
Wafting a small gas blowtorch gently over the epoxy a few centimetres away from the surface after it’s poured will help bring the air bubbles out and get rid of them
@@thedecliningcyclist3321 this product says that you shouldn’t need to do that - let’s see after the main pour. I have the blow torch at the ready
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt if you get bubbles a little waft over with the torch should help, can’t hurt to have it on standby! Loving the galley build it looks great 👍🏻
AQ bit late now but if you go over it with a blowtorch you'll get rid of the air bubbles and point two, how did you get resin on the handle of your brush, lol
Heat gun not blowtorch.
@@YaaLFH I make a large part of my living doing resin work and you are correct a heat gun will work but you need a power supply, you run the risk of dipping the cable in your work and you will blow the resin around which is not good if your making a design. A blowtorch is very quick very portable and very effective
@@jeremywood2129 He has an EcoFlow. In novice hands a blowtorch makes it much too easy to burn the resin.
If you looked really hard, James, I'm sure you could have found a smaller paintbrush. 😁
@@sarkybugger5009 I’m using a selection of micro brushes for the main worktop
Will you have to fit the plug sockets upside down to allow room for the wires coming out of the plugs?
@@fredjackson9006 I may have to relocate - not putting them in upside down
James to remove these dents in the wood but not gouges use a damp cloth with a house hold iron to raise the dents hope it helps (iron the damp cloth over the dent).
@@davetomlinson8944 really - I might have to put that to the test - thanks
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt This will work but only on dents where the wood fibres are not broken. If the fibres are broken, you'll need to use wood filler or wood glue mixed with sawdust.
James, please beware of how you fit those sockets to the splash back, modern appliances have melded plugs with extended rubber to prevent damage to the cable. You will need to allow space for this…. Alternatively, get sockets where the angle of the plug is 45 degrees rather than 90.
@@SteveLawrance yeah I totally overlooked that issue. Thanks from bringing it to my attention - could just use an adapter though
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Or mount the sockets somewhere else, like on the end of the cupboards.
lovely job but be careful of those plug sockets on the backsplash, remember when you plug something in you need space for the wire from the plug to bend. i made this mistake putting the plug sockets too low in my kitchen
@@berniesinclair1351 I can’t believe so many have picked up on this issue which I totally didn’t think of. Thanks so much - I’ll be sure to make sure I pay the plug sockets more attention
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, totally good
As you were describing the need for the boat to be level I was thinking, Murphy will have another boat go by, making yours sway at the worst possible moment. ;-)
@@TairnKA guaranteed!!! It would have to be rocking for a good few hours to really affect the resin so as that’s unlikely I should be ok
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Rocking won't matter, James, as the side to side will cancel each other out. It's a permanent list you have to worry about.
@@sarkybugger5009 well she’s in the outside of sloe so nearly in the middle of the cut - she’s on the most stable pound round here so I’m hoping she won’t list
When working with resin, less talking and more fast walking.
I was going to say the same as Les Brewer about not setting the plugs too low. I made that mistake. Maybe insert them upside down.
@@dorothywilson3717 I won’t put them in upside down - worst case use an adapter but it may be a rethink
Any believe everyone’s picked up on this which I didn’t - but if you’ve made the mistake before then I guess that will do it
If you tare the scale after each pour, you won't have to do the math.
@@sherlockholmes6990 yeah that’s a good point but I should be able to do that maths -
Good job James Take no notice of the haters They re like leeches They smell blood and they re all there😅😅😅😅😅
@@brianbrian760 crickey !! Haters already ?!?! Thanks bud
Sorry to be pedantic James, but asa former maths teacher I can tell you that the area is 1.44 square metres, not metres squared. 1.44 m squared = 1.44x1.44 = 2.90 sq m😂. I know it’s abbreviated as m to the power of 2, but it’s pronounced square metres!
Put the fixings in after the coating has gone on.
I'm a resin aficionado .
Are you ???