I missed this video. I remember having a discussion with you about installing a car lift awhile back; I'm sure others have posed the same question. I like this solution, and I'd surely review it with an engineer. Thanks for posting the video!
Sorry you missed the video and Yes, everybody watching this video please remember these are only suggested construction methods and an engineer might be required.
I was looking for videos on this sane question. The garage ceiling is too low for any car lift. It was too expensive to just build a new garage. So, options seem limited at best. You said this is not ideal, and with snow here in MT, any weaking of the structure is out. My roof also has NO ridge beam. My other thought was a pony-wall with post and straps to raise the whole roof and prevent hinging. (I did find a video on that, too.) However, bracing an existing roof to safely lift or jack it up while keeping it square and intact would worry me. So, my follow-up question would be, can the rafter ties be raised two to three feet instead of sitting at the level of the top plate? If not, then I think the option if we can't go up is to go down and dig an oil pit instead of a lift. But that may cost the sane or more. Thanks.
You can raise a section or the whole roof, but I don't have step by step instructions for that. I suggest watching more videos at our website on garage remodeling, engineering and roof and ceiling remodeling.
I'd like to add a car lift in my place as well. 30' span, but I only need to modify 10' of that span. Any ideas? I'm looking for a structural engineer, but it's been a lot harder than I expected.
can i move one of my garage web in the attic from the tilt position to vertical position so i can make a hole to transient through to the rest of the attic ?
I think I already answered your question email, but if you can figure out a way to create a different type of structural support, then there might not be a problem. Keep in mind that I cannot provide viewers with structural engineering advice, because I'm not a licensed structural engineer.
I have exact problem like the one you presented here. I have, in UK, small garage (W 2720 mm x 5500 mm D x 4200 mm at highest point of ridge). The roof is supported by trusses (5 of triangle of longest side of 5500 mm, with W webbing). All trusses are made of timber of 3" x 1.5 ". I would like to remove the webbing for 3 trusses to create the vaulted space to make loft floor. Can I do what you have shown here? Any suggestions by anyone are well appreciated. Thanks. God Bless.
It might seem like you could, but any modifications to an engineered roof could affect it's structural strength. What would be your reasons for doing something like this?
I believe it was my question. Maybe more than I were asking, but this is pretty much what I need to do. Exactly what you are showing here is what I want to do, only I have block walls and the roof is turned 90*. This is what worries me. My trusses tie from front to back and I have a 16' overhead door with a lintel above it. I would be removing 3 truss bottoms giving me a clear 8' span to raise a car on a lift. So my worry is having 8' above the center of my 16' wide opening bow out and break the lintel. I do plan to add collar ties along with adding a 2x6 or 8 under the ridge. Comments???
I cannot provide you with structural engineering advice, but feel free to email me some pictures of your existing garage and a description of what you're trying to do and I would be glad to provide you with an opinion. You can get our email address at our website.
I'm not an engineer, but I am a retired Brick Mason. If your lintel is masonry with rebar in it I would be afraid to do that. If you could support it and replace the lintel with an I beam you may sleep better at night.
What is the name of the position or role of the person who could tell me if I need permits/engineering/etc. so that I can perform this type of modification in my garage? Is it someone in City Hall? Or a general contractor? Would an architect who's local to me know?
You're going to be looking for your local "building and safety department" and it could be located within your city or county government buildings like City Hall.
@@gregvancom ok, i mean how the roof joist sits on the top plate of a wall, and the "birdsmouth" seat-cut leaves the notched material on the outside of the wall. My logic tells me to put the plum-cut resting on the inside of the top plate -- to give that 90degree something to rest on, or rather push against so that nails arent the only support. 16-pennies have obviously worked for decades to keep joists from 'sliding off the roof'.. just a thought.. lol
I missed this video. I remember having a discussion with you about installing a car lift awhile back; I'm sure others have posed the same question. I like this solution, and I'd surely review it with an engineer. Thanks for posting the video!
Sorry you missed the video and Yes, everybody watching this video please remember these are only suggested construction methods and an engineer might be required.
I was looking for videos on this sane question. The garage ceiling is too low for any car lift. It was too expensive to just build a new garage. So, options seem limited at best. You said this is not ideal, and with snow here in MT, any weaking of the structure is out. My roof also has NO ridge beam. My other thought was a pony-wall with post and straps to raise the whole roof and prevent hinging. (I did find a video on that, too.) However, bracing an existing roof to safely lift or jack it up while keeping it square and intact would worry me. So, my follow-up question would be, can the rafter ties be raised two to three feet instead of sitting at the level of the top plate? If not, then I think the option if we can't go up is to go down and dig an oil pit instead of a lift. But that may cost the sane or more. Thanks.
You can raise a section or the whole roof, but I don't have step by step instructions for that. I suggest watching more videos at our website on garage remodeling, engineering and roof and ceiling remodeling.
up here in maine farmers would raise the whole garage using bottle jacks, lots of videos on that.
You have to extend the door .
I'd like to add a car lift in my place as well. 30' span, but I only need to modify 10' of that span. Any ideas? I'm looking for a structural engineer, but it's been a lot harder than I expected.
I think this is the only video I have on extending the ceiling for a lift.
can i move one of my garage web in the attic from the tilt position to vertical position so i can make a hole to transient through to the rest of the attic ?
I think I already answered your question email, but if you can figure out a way to create a different type of structural support, then there might not be a problem. Keep in mind that I cannot provide viewers with structural engineering advice, because I'm not a licensed structural engineer.
I have exact problem like the one you presented here.
I have, in UK, small garage (W 2720 mm x 5500 mm D x 4200 mm at highest point of ridge).
The roof is supported by trusses (5 of triangle of longest side of 5500 mm, with W webbing). All trusses are made of timber of 3" x 1.5 ". I would like to remove the webbing for 3 trusses to create the vaulted space to make loft floor.
Can I do what you have shown here?
Any suggestions by anyone are well appreciated.
Thanks. God Bless.
Hey could you could you rise a truss a foot high in the center to make the ceiling higher but keeping like a 2 foot box out all around?
It might seem like you could, but any modifications to an engineered roof could affect it's structural strength. What would be your reasons for doing something like this?
@@gregvancom am buying a house and it's a 8' but it seem low am a little on the tall said 6'5" and I jus need the room to feel a little more spacious
Did you understand when I said that it's going to have a 2' cut out all around
Would I need a permit and an engineer’s approval to do something like this?
Most of the time you do. Check with local building department for clarification.
I believe it was my question. Maybe more than I were asking, but this is pretty much what I need to do. Exactly what you are showing here is what I want to do, only I have block walls and the roof is turned 90*. This is what worries me. My trusses tie from front to back and I have a 16' overhead door with a lintel above it. I would be removing 3 truss bottoms giving me a clear 8' span to raise a car on a lift. So my worry is having 8' above the center of my 16' wide opening bow out and break the lintel. I do plan to add collar ties along with adding a 2x6 or 8 under the ridge. Comments???
I cannot provide you with structural engineering advice, but feel free to email me some pictures of your existing garage and a description of what you're trying to do and I would be glad to provide you with an opinion. You can get our email address at our website.
I'm not an engineer, but I am a retired Brick Mason. If your lintel is masonry with rebar in it I would be afraid to do that. If you could support it and replace the lintel with an I beam you may sleep better at night.
Can you do a video for an L Return roof.
Here's a link to our website that might be helpful. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/design/framing/l/index.html
Why not notch the ends of the rafter so they slide over the top of the wall and rest on it, then put in a block underneath as extra support.
If you can't slide the rafter into that spot, sometimes you can make it a little smaller and then use a block to fill the space.
What is the name of the position or role of the person who could tell me if I need permits/engineering/etc. so that I can perform this type of modification in my garage? Is it someone in City Hall? Or a general contractor? Would an architect who's local to me know?
You're going to be looking for your local "building and safety department" and it could be located within your city or county government buildings like City Hall.
@@gregvancom great thanks!
Great video as always.
Thanks for the video.
Good video.
Thanks
I never understood why they dont put the birdsmouth on the inside of the house..
I would need more details about your suggestion or question.
@@gregvancom ok, i mean how the roof joist sits on the top plate of a wall, and the "birdsmouth" seat-cut leaves the notched material on the outside of the wall. My logic tells me to put the plum-cut resting on the inside of the top plate -- to give that 90degree something to rest on, or rather push against so that nails arent the only support. 16-pennies have obviously worked for decades to keep joists from 'sliding off the roof'.. just a thought.. lol
Sounds expensive
It could be.